I removed my distributor. Put the new one back EXACTLY in the same place. I didn't do all the TDC and all that crap. Just have to pay attention to where the rotor button is before you take everything off. Vehicle was hard to start. It would run and drive, but would sometimes stall at red lights or when parking. And got the P1345 code. Pulled it back out and put it back in 1 cylinder clockwise... wouldn't start at all. Removed it again and put it one cylinder back from the original location (counter-clockwise). No P1345 and it runs fine. No stalls or misfires... and that was 3 years ago. I bought the distributor online, not from an auto parts store.
I've spent five years tearing down putting back together every component of the electrical system thinking I had new parts n Everytime failing until I seen this video. Thank you!!!!!!
FOR PULLING DISTRIBUTOR AND PUTTING SAME DISTRIBUTOR BACK on 4.3 litre......The easiest and fastest way is to 1st...mark where you rotor is pointing on the firewall or where ever (AND) also on the roter/distributer itself "this will be MARK 1 on the roter/distributor itself) so your marking a line on the rotor right straight down on the distributor itself i usually make this mark close inline with the hold down below just to make it easy....2nd...pull your distributor up slowly keeping the hold down bracket in line with the hold down bolt hole and while your pulling the distributor up slowly the gears will un-mesh and the rotor will turn as soon as it un-meshes and the rotor stops turning (don't move..keeping your distributer hold down still in line with the distributor hold down bolt) now mark where the roter is pointing on the distributor remembering to make the mark on the rotor straight down onto the distributor and this will be your (MARK 2 on the rotor/distributor itself). Ok Simple..you now have One mark on the firewall where the rotor is pointing, MARK 1.on the roter/distributor in line with the hold down bracket and you have your MARK 2 on the roter/distributor where the rotor stops moving after un-meshing...SO YOU HAVE A TOTAL OF 3 MARKS AFTER PULLING THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT!)...Now, when putting back in just align your distributor hold down with the hold down bolt hole (put your Mark 1 on the (Rotor) in line with your Mark2 on the (Distributor) and lower it slowly and as the gears mesh your rotor will slowly move to match up you Mark 1 and your Mark 2 with your Mark 1 and Mark 2 on the distributor.......and then when you have it all the way in Look at your mark on the firewall and your rotor will be pointing right at it!!! If your putting in (NEW DISTRIBUTOR or ROTOR) just align the hold down bracket with the hold down bolt holes on the NEW DISTRIBUTOR or ROTOR) and use your old distributor MARK1 and MARK 2 by holding side by side and making the marks on the new one the same place as old one and once again your rotor will align with the mark on the firewall after you have it all the way in. This sounds like a lot but it is simple and works every-time, no messing with bringing it to TDC....:)
I want to clarify a little to make it easier when you make your MARK 2 after pulling up and the gears un-mesh..make your Mark 2 to the left (counter clockwise of your Mark 1....this will be easier. Up above i said to make your Mark 2 where the roter is pointing, but doing it this way may be easier if you haven't done it much.
I swapped out the distributor in my step sons 1999 blazer 4.3 yesterday. The problem I ran into and never before removing and installing distributors was the oil pump rotating slightly and the new distributor not seating and throwing the timing off when I did get it to seat into the oil pump. If it wasn`t for the lazy shade tree mechanic in me I would have rolled the motor to TDC before I started the job and screwed the timing up and shortened my escapade. After rolling the motor over to TDC, which is the second timing mark on the balancer aligned to the notch in the timing chain cover, which is in the 1 o`clock position on the timing cover, I quickly realized what was going on and how to correct it. This issue created all the same symptoms described that the dislocated reluctor wheel created in the video. The vehicle started and ran but you could tell the timing was off, and it threw the same code mentioned in the video. After straightening out my lazy induced screw up, and correcting the timing by aligning the marks on the crank, and distributor all is well and running fine. Like I stated early in this reply, I have removed and reinstalled/replaced plenty of distributors, and never, I mean never before have I ever had an oil pump rotate like this one did in this 4.3 and give me problems such as this. Just thought I would put this here as another potential solution to this problem if your distributor checks out and is assembled correctly. BTW I checked mine after this problem showed up and it was assembled correctly, obviously as described in what I have described as my problem. I also read other comments of using home made tools or a screw driver to rotate the oil pump. You can also get it to move by slowly rotating the distributor one tooth at a time pain in the ass but it works.
all you have to do is turn the dist one tooth and hold it down with your hand while you crank the motor and it drops down. or you could turn the oil pump drive notch with a long flat head screwdriver and drop the dist right in. no problem
I had the very same problem and fixed it. At 6:45, you sent a confusing message for what it means for the drive gear at the bottom of your distributor to be correctly aligned. What you pointed at was the fixed shaft with the reluctor wheel at the top, and then you assumed that since the dimple at the bottom of the drive gear was lined up with your rotor that it meant it was built correctly. Not necessarily so, because when you drive the locking pin out (hammer and 1/8 hex key) that holds the drive gear in a the bottom to turn it 180 degrees and reinsert (light hammering) the drive pin back in, then the entire housing at the top with your "6" mark ALSO turns 180 degrees. Now your dimple lines up with the rotor once again, but 180 degree opposite as before. Why would this make a difference? What you are looking for is the drive gear at the bottom to line up its gear teeth very slight different on one side of the 180 degrees than the other side, therefore giving you a new starting place and lining your rotor up the mark "6". That slight difference is exactly what you need for being slightly off the "6" mark once it is installed. That was the part you were missing, that the distributor housing also turns 180 degrees around after you drive out the pin and turn the drive gear 180 degrees. So, why is this happening? I read on the Chevy S10 forum that these rebuilt distributors are built in foreign markets where there is little quality control. They cannot tell if the drive gear is on correctly or incorrectly by sight, so it is often put on backward by 180 degrees. On the forums for 4.3L engines, you will find numerous people who change their drive gear around (like I did) and then the distributor worked perfectly whereas it didn't previously. Also, for the distributor shaft to be flush with the manifold for securing it, you need a long 10" to12" screw driver to stick down in the hole and use a mirror (or take pics with your cell phone) to see your progress in the hole, because you need to line up the slot for the oil pump to be vertical so that your distributor drive will drop right into that slot. You will notice when the dimple is lined up either with the factory mark about one inch above the drive gear (or in the lack of a mark on the shaft, it is lined up exactly perpendicular--vertically--when the mounting bracket hole is horizontally to your left). When that is lined up and you put your distributor back, grab it from the top so that the rotor does not shift and then you should line up with the oil pump slot without any difficulty. That way your distributor will mount on the manifold property. Several people were frustrated with it not being flush, but that is the way to line it up.
That dimple on the bottom of the distributor is supposed to line up with a factory mark on the lower shaft just above the gear. Also, the rotor does shift a small distance as it seats into the distributor shaft gear, which brings the rotor back to the correct orientation.
Had this problem this week are purchased a eBay distributor ended buying another distributor big Box store auto zone.Lost my money on eBay but I got my truck running with a quality distributor.thank for your video 👍 helped A lot.
I fixed it! Had same problem. Bought 1 distributor from EBay the other from AutoZone. While at TDC on compression stroke and both distributor dimple marks lined up, they would not hit the #6. Here is what worked for me: I tried the EBay distributor again and kept removing and inserting it back into the hole. Every time I did this the pointer would end up closer to the #6 on it's own! I kept doing it until it landed right on the #6. I was surprised this happened and put everything back together figuring no way this would work. It did! No timing code. I drove my blazer for about 20 miles and no check engine light. Try it, this may work for you.
if you're half a tooth off you can remove the roll pin from the cam gear and clock the gear 180 out this gives half a tooth difference. Good idea to shim for .010 end play while you're at it.
I’ve heard of this, but don’t quite fully understand. I’m able to removed the roll pin. Do I just spin the cam gear 180 while holding the wheel at its spot? Meaning the dimple won’t line up with the white line and be on the opposite side?
@@carlomendoza8588 Yes. The gear has an odd number of teeth, so spinning the gear 180* on the shaft will effectively move the shaft 1/2 a tooth. (right at 13*)
I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado w/a 4.3 ltr. V6. Thanks now I know what to watch out for if I ever have to replace my distibutor. Thanks for making this video.
There should also be a scrib or white mark on the upper part of the shaft just above the gear teeth . this mark should line up with the dimple at the lower end below the gear ,from there you have to use a long screw drive to line up the oil pump shaft that should do it.
With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
You have to turn your oil pump input to align it with the shank on the bottom of the distributor. I use one of those old tire irons with a wedge tip and tape a camera to it so I can see what I’m doing
Had the same problem with a new distributor , no matter what I did rotor pointer was before or after the 6 mark & throwing p 1345 code . got sick of it & decided to go old school took the distributor out & slotted the hold down clamp for adjustment put it back in turned the distributor to lineup with number 6 mark started the engine ran fine ,drove 6 miles service engine light went off problem solved . this may go against GM'S spec's but I don't care it's my old truck .besides I didn't ruin anything I just modified the situation .
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
+R Anderson - With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can YES!
Also when I am sitting a distributor if it is a tooth off and the oil pump Drive does not allow it to seat all the way you can set it in part way then crank engine with a ratchet until it falls into place.. or you can use a long flat head screwdriver to reach down and adjust oil pump drive in any position you need... this works with Vortec TBI and carbureted engines
yes my friend has a tool he made, you could too, to reach down in there, and counterclockwise turn oil pump shaft... 1/8? or so. Sits right in. DONT DROP THE TOOL IN THERE!
I wish I had remembered to check the alignment, I just exchanged an aftermarket one I bought yesterday, for a supposedly "Remanufactured" one from Bennett Auto, and got stuck with another POS. Listen guys, if you have the money, or a credit card, buy a real one, don't waste your time, or your mechanic's time like I did. After Market distributors are JUNK!!!
Just put vise grips with rag well keep dimple showing on shaft then used a grinder wheel Ranch on it and turn it that's what I did use old one as reference or take it back and bring your old one with you to check the new one
Yup I am having the same problem too... Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
the sensor will still be off and give you a code...the part has to be manufactured right via the shaft and the upper alignment all lining up,i get what he's saying...he showed you the old one...come on people
Just a thought are you shure you dont have the vortex v8 mixed with the v6 as the wheel would have 8 spots on circle verses 6 spots on circle would make the mark slightly off but hell it runs thats amazing. can you put tape over the service engine light and drive it.
On my 2000 S10 4.3 Vortec. If the crank was rotated after chain & gears were removed, How do you determine TDC on #4 without knowing true TDC on #1 to begin with? Help Me if you can. Thank You.
I had replaced the distributor, on a 1995 gmc jimmy 4.3. Or had it done by a mechanic. Is this distributor fixed? Meaning , we'll how do you ajust, to advance or opposite?
Is this thing (still) on? As a stop-gap measure, could you hog out the hold down bolt hole to make a short slot, install the distributor as near to correct as possible, then rotate it (like we used to) until the rotor aligns with the indexing mark (6)?
Bought an ac delco from autozone the other day and I think I have the same problem. The 6 not exactly lined up with the bottom marks. Am I missing something? Thought I got a legit part
could it be possible that the shafts actually came off the 1st gen vortec engines 93-98 i believe, and they are like you had mentioned and were rebuilt without any reguard to diameter and basically say they are for the second gen vortec 99-07?
This is exactly what I was wondering about rebuilt distributors--could different gens become indifferent matches? I had a store-bought rebuild (not able to return either) and it would not work, even when I drove the pin for the drive gear out and turned the drive gear 180 degrees and reinserted the locking pin, so I went to the local Pick N Pull auto bone yard and pulled a distributor from my exact year. It worked whereas the rebuild didn't. I pulled it out and did close examination of every aspect compared to the store rebuild. I noticed that the oil pump driver in the base was slightly off center compared to the one that worked. I drove the pin back out and turned it 180 degrees again, still off center. That was when I wondered if it was from a different year than mine.
had the same issue on my 1997 seirra 1500 and i got but a third unit from the dealer that was offset. finally i took new ones back to the dealer and said for them to shove it up there ass i pulled mine apart my self put in a bushing and pressed it using a bench clamp a hammer and it worked great for 10 more years
I only replaced the distributor drive gear on my old distributor and I now get the P1345 code. Should I now presume my reluctor wheel is off? I don't understand why the engine runs and starts so well, in spite of this with engine check light always on. Should I presume I've put the drive gear on 180 degrees out?? I don't understand how it can matter where the gear is so long as the roll pin goes through.
There are 13 teeth on that distributor gear. If you knock that roll pin out and put the distributor gear back on 180 degrees from where it is now, you might solve your problem. It will force you to be 13.5 degrees from where you were.
I think it would. I had the same problem trying to replace mine with one I bought off Ebay. I struggled and struggled and just couldn't get everything in sync. Ended up putting the original back in with no problems in just a few minutes. Before I did, I watched this video and compared the old and new. When I compared the splines in relation to that dimple on the old distributor vs the new distributor, I could see that the new distributor gear was off. With the old distributor, that dimple sits perfectly in between the bottom of the two splines when you look at it straight. With the new distributor, the dimple is actually inline with the bottom of one of the splines (or gears whatever) instead of in between two. This is explains it. I looked at the opposite side of the distributor gear though (180 out) and that side lines up with the hole (no dimple on this side but the hole is as good a reference because it's the same hole that's inline with the dimple on the other side) and it sits in between the bottom of the two splines above it. So like you said, if that gear is spun around 180, it should work perfectly. I ended up putting the old one back in though before reading this post so I didn't know it was possible to do so. I'm going to try probably next week.
Huggins idea is key for errant QC manufacturing of cheap new distributor, plus, my 1345 code went away when I slotted the lock plate on one side of the bolt hole, allowing up to 5 degrees or more adjustment. I needed 2.5 due to bad QC. Code is gone! The grippers on the lock plate can be ground away to fit exact, not squeezing. If you have two plates, make them opposite slotting (see uplift lump) and keep them available for the next QC fix.
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
I did the same thing and timed it by ear like we used to do with old '70s cars, all of the sudden as my helper was cranking it and I was slowing turning my distributor in the slot, bang! It started. Tightened it down and have no further problems. I used a rat-tail round rasp file to enlarge the side of the slot where the bolt lines up, about 3/8 inch more. Then, while cranking, I started at ground zero tight against one side and turned it ever so slowly counterclockwise in my filed opening when it finally hit the sweet spot and fired up.
Ive got c1500 with the 4.3 v6 its running 3 codes po300-po420and po446...i changed plugs -wires- cap-button...it runs great till you try keep it at a certain rpm it still misfiring..any thoughts??
I remove the distributor on my 00 chevy express 3500 5.7 and I put it back right away and now the van rank but do not start. Any help. I will be appreciative it
THE PUMP SHAFT IS LINED UP AND THE CAM SHAFT GEAR IS OFF ONE TOOTH. WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT AND EVERY DOTS AND DIMPLES ARE LINED UP IN THE TOP OF THE DISTRIBUTOR SHOWS IT IS OFF ONE TOOTH. FACTORY MISTAKE TAKE IT BACK AND GET ANOTHER ONE. TAKE IT OUT OF THE BOX AND CHECK THE ALIGNMENT, BEFORE LEAVING THE PARTS STORE.
The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
+Tommy Newhouse - Older 4.3L / Carburetor type, you can " Adjust ". The Auto Fuel Injector is all automatic and you don't have to do anything. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect.
2 Thumbs up on the Video. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :(((((
+Mountain Heart - There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod like you stated above. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :(((((( NOTE: The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
Buy a brand new, all aluminum distributor that comes with new ign module from Summit.and call it good....because it will be. Guess how I know. Seriously. P/N SUM-850097, $161.99 as of 1/16/20
I heard they could change the timing a few degrees with a scan tool and get rid of the code I reinstalled mine a bit off but it runs perfect just throws a code
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
you need to verify the piston is coming up on compression. use your finger, cover the hole, and when you feel it blowing/pushing your finger back, you are coming up on compression. then just use the crank marks to align TDC.
This worked for me. Also, what you said in another video about dropping the distributor in and turning the crankshaft to get it to seat all the way in worked perfectly. The splines already are making contact so it's still in time after being turned. Then, just crank the crankshaft the opposite direction back to TDC so you know you're still on the compression stroke and it should be inline with "6." That is so much easier than trying to turn the oil pump part with a screwdriver where it receives the distributor. Hopefully, others see your comments because they made it a breeze to put in.
Julio Bermudez Yeah, my dad was a Ford tech for 35 years. He used to hate dilly dallying with the Chevy dizzy all under the firewall. So one day I was sitting on top of an engine, cursing just about everything, and he was like hey now you know why Chevies are a pain, but here check this trick out... I was like thumbs up... Thx old man.
Not at all on no1 tdc the pointer will be pointed to the first corner on the distributor on the driver side of the vehicle you will have to put the no6 piston at tdc to use the 6 in the cap
There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod like you stated above. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :(((((( NOTE: The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
Was your blazer backfiring before you replaced the distributor? My 1998 Z-71 8 cylinder started backfiring and I have tried everything to try to fix it with no luck. It not firing from the cap to the plug on the 2nd and 8th cylinder.
My Dad have a 2001 S10 - It's the same Cap. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
So all that said the bottom line is they do not make Auto parts worth a damn anymore !!! I have the same engine and I had a similar issue with the poppets on my spider injection they were just a little too big it's hard to find good help LOL
GOOD AUDIO BUT VIDEO IS BAD TO MUCH MOVING....i KNOW HOW IT IS WITH 1 PERSON,,,BUT ITS ALL GOOD GUY..HEY WHY DONT U CUT THE HOLD DOEN CLAMP WHERE THE HOLE IS AND INVERT A TOP OVER HOLD DOWN PIECE OF METAL WITH A HOLE IN IT AND PUT THE BOLT THROUGH THE NEW HOLD DOWN OVER LAY IT AND TIGHTEN...YOU CONVERT IT TO FREE MOVE LIKE THE OLDER ONES, JUST TO TURN IT A FRACTION.
Hmm, my new amazon distributor arrived today. Appears better then the old original. All aluminum housing. The old one was part plastic that was cracked from heat and age. Aligning the dimples with both on the bench, all seems OK. Shall see this weekend. Having a little difficulty finding the oil pump slot to align distributor shaft. I can see it, just can't get the screw driver aligned.
+scrowty mcbugerballs - You are NOT alone, I too have the same problem. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect.
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
Nope you are NOT crazy... I have the same issues... Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
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I removed my distributor. Put the new one back EXACTLY in the same place. I didn't do all the TDC and all that crap. Just have to pay attention to where the rotor button is before you take everything off. Vehicle was hard to start. It would run and drive, but would sometimes stall at red lights or when parking. And got the P1345 code. Pulled it back out and put it back in 1 cylinder clockwise... wouldn't start at all. Removed it again and put it one cylinder back from the original location (counter-clockwise). No P1345 and it runs fine. No stalls or misfires... and that was 3 years ago. I bought the distributor online, not from an auto parts store.
Scott, glad you got it fixed. Lots of bad parts nowadays i went through 4 Distrubitor’s till i got a good one.
I've spent five years tearing down putting back together every component of the electrical system thinking I had new parts n Everytime failing until I seen this video. Thank you!!!!!!
FOR PULLING DISTRIBUTOR AND PUTTING SAME DISTRIBUTOR BACK on 4.3 litre......The easiest and fastest way is to 1st...mark where you rotor is pointing on the firewall or where ever (AND) also on the roter/distributer itself "this will be MARK 1 on the roter/distributor itself) so your marking a line on the rotor right straight down on the distributor itself i usually make this mark close inline with the hold down below just to make it easy....2nd...pull your distributor up slowly keeping the hold down bracket in line with the hold down bolt hole and while your pulling the distributor up slowly the gears will un-mesh and the rotor will turn as soon as it un-meshes and the rotor stops turning (don't move..keeping your distributer hold down still in line with the distributor hold down bolt) now mark where the roter is pointing on the distributor remembering to make the mark on the rotor straight down onto the distributor and this will be your (MARK 2 on the rotor/distributor itself). Ok Simple..you now have One mark on the firewall where the rotor is pointing, MARK 1.on the roter/distributor in line with the hold down bracket and you have your MARK 2 on the roter/distributor where the rotor stops moving after un-meshing...SO YOU HAVE A TOTAL OF 3 MARKS AFTER PULLING THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT!)...Now, when putting back in just align your distributor hold down with the hold down bolt hole (put your Mark 1 on the (Rotor) in line with your Mark2 on the (Distributor) and lower it slowly and as the gears mesh your rotor will slowly move to match up you Mark 1 and your Mark 2 with your Mark 1 and Mark 2 on the distributor.......and then when you have it all the way in Look at your mark on the firewall and your rotor will be pointing right at it!!! If your putting in (NEW DISTRIBUTOR or ROTOR) just align the hold down bracket with the hold down bolt holes on the NEW DISTRIBUTOR or ROTOR) and use your old distributor MARK1 and MARK 2 by holding side by side and making the marks on the new one the same place as old one and once again your rotor will align with the mark on the firewall after you have it all the way in. This sounds like a lot but it is simple and works every-time, no messing with bringing it to TDC....:)
I want to clarify a little to make it easier when you make your MARK 2 after pulling up and the gears un-mesh..make your Mark 2 to the left (counter clockwise of your Mark 1....this will be easier. Up above i said to make your Mark 2 where the roter is pointing, but doing it this way may be easier if you haven't done it much.
I marked mine, and I still cant get that basted to seat. The mark was nowhere near the 6
I swapped out the distributor in my step sons 1999 blazer 4.3 yesterday. The problem I ran into and never before removing and installing distributors was the oil pump rotating slightly and the new distributor not seating and throwing the timing off when I did get it to seat into the oil pump. If it wasn`t for the lazy shade tree mechanic in me I would have rolled the motor to TDC before I started the job and screwed the timing up and shortened my escapade. After rolling the motor over to TDC, which is the second timing mark on the balancer aligned to the notch in the timing chain cover, which is in the 1 o`clock position on the timing cover, I quickly realized what was going on and how to correct it. This issue created all the same symptoms described that the dislocated reluctor wheel created in the video. The vehicle started and ran but you could tell the timing was off, and it threw the same code mentioned in the video. After straightening out my lazy induced screw up, and correcting the timing by aligning the marks on the crank, and distributor all is well and running fine. Like I stated early in this reply, I have removed and reinstalled/replaced plenty of distributors, and never, I mean never before have I ever had an oil pump rotate like this one did in this 4.3 and give me problems such as this. Just thought I would put this here as another potential solution to this problem if your distributor checks out and is assembled correctly. BTW I checked mine after this problem showed up and it was assembled correctly, obviously as described in what I have described as my problem. I also read other comments of using home made tools or a screw driver to rotate the oil pump. You can also get it to move by slowly rotating the distributor one tooth at a time pain in the ass but it works.
all you have to do is turn the dist one tooth and hold it down with your hand while you crank the motor and it drops down. or you could turn the oil pump drive notch with a long flat head screwdriver and drop the dist right in. no problem
Having this same problem with my 4.3 motor and thought I was the only one.
Great video.
Very informative.
Exactly the problem.
I had the very same problem and fixed it. At 6:45, you sent a confusing message for what it means for the drive gear at the bottom of your distributor to be correctly aligned. What you pointed at was the fixed shaft with the reluctor wheel at the top, and then you assumed that since the dimple at the bottom of the drive gear was lined up with your rotor that it meant it was built correctly. Not necessarily so, because when you drive the locking pin out (hammer and 1/8 hex key) that holds the drive gear in a the bottom to turn it 180 degrees and reinsert (light hammering) the drive pin back in, then the entire housing at the top with your "6" mark ALSO turns 180 degrees. Now your dimple lines up with the rotor once again, but 180 degree opposite as before. Why would this make a difference? What you are looking for is the drive gear at the bottom to line up its gear teeth very slight different on one side of the 180 degrees than the other side, therefore giving you a new starting place and lining your rotor up the mark "6". That slight difference is exactly what you need for being slightly off the "6" mark once it is installed. That was the part you were missing, that the distributor housing also turns 180 degrees around after you drive out the pin and turn the drive gear 180 degrees. So, why is this happening? I read on the Chevy S10 forum that these rebuilt distributors are built in foreign markets where there is little quality control. They cannot tell if the drive gear is on correctly or incorrectly by sight, so it is often put on backward by 180 degrees. On the forums for 4.3L engines, you will find numerous people who change their drive gear around (like I did) and then the distributor worked perfectly whereas it didn't previously. Also, for the distributor shaft to be flush with the manifold for securing it, you need a long 10" to12" screw driver to stick down in the hole and use a mirror (or take pics with your cell phone) to see your progress in the hole, because you need to line up the slot for the oil pump to be vertical so that your distributor drive will drop right into that slot. You will notice when the dimple is lined up either with the factory mark about one inch above the drive gear (or in the lack of a mark on the shaft, it is lined up exactly perpendicular--vertically--when the mounting bracket hole is horizontally to your left). When that is lined up and you put your distributor back, grab it from the top so that the rotor does not shift and then you should line up with the oil pump slot without any difficulty. That way your distributor will mount on the manifold property. Several people were frustrated with it not being flush, but that is the way to line it up.
That dimple on the bottom of the distributor is supposed to line up with a factory mark on the lower shaft just above the gear. Also, the rotor does shift a small distance as it seats into the distributor shaft gear, which brings the rotor back to the correct orientation.
With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can YES!
Thank you SO much for mentioning the distributor drive gear could be installed 180' out. Just that little bit of info fixed my problem. Thanks again.
Had this problem this week are purchased a eBay distributor ended buying another distributor big Box store auto zone.Lost my money on eBay but I got my truck running with a quality distributor.thank for your video 👍 helped A lot.
Good video, a lot of people don't know about the aligning the marks on the shaft....good job!
I fixed it! Had same problem. Bought 1 distributor from EBay the other from AutoZone. While at TDC on compression stroke and both distributor dimple marks lined up, they would not hit the #6. Here is what worked for me: I tried the EBay distributor again and kept removing and inserting it back into the hole. Every time I did this the pointer would end up closer to the #6 on it's own! I kept doing it until it landed right on the #6. I was surprised this happened and put everything back together figuring no way this would work. It did! No timing code. I drove my blazer for about 20 miles and no check engine light. Try it, this may work for you.
it was not seated in the oil pump
if you're half a tooth off you can remove the roll pin from the cam gear and clock the gear 180 out this gives half a tooth difference. Good idea to shim for .010 end play while you're at it.
I’ve heard of this, but don’t quite fully understand. I’m able to removed the roll pin. Do I just spin the cam gear 180 while holding the wheel at its spot? Meaning the dimple won’t line up with the white line and be on the opposite side?
@@carlomendoza8588 Yes. The gear has an odd number of teeth, so spinning the gear 180* on the shaft will effectively move the shaft 1/2 a tooth. (right at 13*)
I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado w/a 4.3 ltr. V6. Thanks now I know what to watch out for if I ever have to replace my distibutor. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you! 2002 blazer same problem today drove me crazy. I will post this on direct fix and a few other's we use at work.
You could have said all that in about 5min.
Yea no shit right....jezzzzz long winded mych
Thank you so much i have been fighting this problem in my 98 gmc sonoma 4.3 for months.
Great video I'm fighting this with my astro van 43
There should also be a scrib or white mark on the upper part of the shaft just above the gear teeth . this mark should line up with the dimple at the lower end below the gear ,from there you have to use a long screw drive to line up the oil pump shaft that should do it.
With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
You have to turn your oil pump input to align it with the shank on the bottom of the distributor. I use one of those old tire irons with a wedge tip and tape a camera to it so I can see what I’m doing
Had the same problem with a new distributor , no matter what I did rotor pointer was before or after the 6 mark & throwing p 1345 code . got sick of it & decided to go old school took the distributor out & slotted the hold down clamp for adjustment put it back in turned the distributor to lineup with number 6 mark started the engine ran fine ,drove 6 miles service engine light went off problem solved . this may go against GM'S spec's but I don't care it's my old truck .besides I didn't ruin anything I just modified the situation .
did that really work cause i thought of that
You could slot the hold down bracket which would allow you to rotate the housing enough to lineup if you're in a pinch.
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can
NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the "
Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
That's what I saw someone do and they said it worked.
Much too lengthy. Far less words needed to convey message. Thanks for the effort !
He's actually explain the problem. And making it clear of all procedures. Maybe you should make one.
GOOD TO KNOW I JUST HAD THAT PROBLEM
It's called a video for a reason.
They used to call them moving pictures.The point is, a pic is worth a thousand words.
Couldn't you have just turned the oil pump gear a tad and it would have been fine?
+R Anderson - With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can YES!
Also when I am sitting a distributor if it is a tooth off and the oil pump Drive does not allow it to seat all the way you can set it in part way then crank engine with a ratchet until it falls into place.. or you can use a long flat head screwdriver to reach down and adjust oil pump drive in any position you need... this works with Vortec TBI and carbureted engines
yes my friend has a tool he made, you could too, to reach down in there, and counterclockwise turn oil pump shaft... 1/8? or so. Sits right in. DONT DROP THE TOOL IN THERE!
Switched mine from the old OEM plastic base distributor to one made out of aluminum. The plastic base ones suck.
Round off square part of hold down bracket with a grinder so you can move the distributior slightly
I wish I had remembered to check the alignment, I just exchanged an aftermarket one I bought yesterday, for a supposedly "Remanufactured" one from Bennett Auto, and got stuck with another POS. Listen guys, if you have the money, or a credit card, buy a real one, don't waste your time, or your mechanic's time like I did. After Market distributors are JUNK!!!
Good diagnosis buddy!
Just put vise grips with rag well keep dimple showing on shaft then used a grinder wheel Ranch on it and turn it that's what I did use old one as reference or take it back and bring your old one with you to check the new one
Thanks for this. I thought I was crazy! Why is this explanation nowhere to be found in the forums?
Yup I am having the same problem too... Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
I'm having that problem with my sonoma RIGHT NOW, replacement on 12-4-15, I hope
scan Man how did that turn out for you man.
Fine---$400 later
all you have to do is li ne up the oil pump shaft and you can make that distributer sit anywhere you like
the sensor will still be off and give you a code...the part has to be manufactured right via the shaft and the upper alignment all lining up,i get what he's saying...he showed you the old one...come on people
True. Definitely need to line up that oil pump slot though. I learned that the hard way.
The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :(((((
With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can YES!
please tell me it was not a cardone ? i just found a steal on a new one on ebay..... now im scared
it helped me alot the number 6 thing big help
Just a thought are you shure you dont have the vortex v8 mixed with the v6 as the wheel would have 8 spots on circle verses 6 spots on circle would make the mark slightly off but hell it runs thats amazing. can you put tape over the service engine light and drive it.
On my 2000 S10 4.3 Vortec. If the crank was rotated after chain & gears were removed, How do you determine TDC on #4 without knowing true TDC on #1 to begin with?
Help Me if you can. Thank You.
Can you explain the having the rotor towards 6. I thought it always points to number 1
I'm having this issue. I tried showing my dad and he got frustrated and stated sending me all kinds of links do I ignored him lol. He is a mechanic.
Because the cap spark path goes over to that 6 mark but it’s still on number 1
Thanks a million. Save me a lots of time
I had replaced the distributor, on a 1995 gmc jimmy 4.3. Or had it done by a mechanic. Is this distributor fixed? Meaning , we'll how do you ajust, to advance or opposite?
Is this thing (still) on? As a stop-gap measure, could you hog out the hold down bolt hole to make a short slot, install the distributor as near to correct as possible, then rotate it (like we used to) until the rotor aligns with the indexing mark (6)?
I had the same problem. THANKS!! :)
Bought an ac delco from autozone the other day and I think I have the same problem. The 6 not exactly lined up with the bottom marks. Am I missing something? Thought I got a legit part
Thank's so much for video friend
could it be possible that the shafts actually came off the 1st gen vortec engines 93-98 i believe, and they are like you had mentioned and were rebuilt without any reguard to diameter and basically say they are for the second gen vortec 99-07?
This is exactly what I was wondering about rebuilt distributors--could different gens become indifferent matches? I had a store-bought rebuild (not able to return either) and it would not work, even when I drove the pin for the drive gear out and turned the drive gear 180 degrees and reinserted the locking pin, so I went to the local Pick N Pull auto bone yard and pulled a distributor from my exact year. It worked whereas the rebuild didn't. I pulled it out and did close examination of every aspect compared to the store rebuild. I noticed that the oil pump driver in the base was slightly off center compared to the one that worked. I drove the pin back out and turned it 180 degrees again, still off center. That was when I wondered if it was from a different year than mine.
had the same issue on my 1997 seirra 1500 and i got but a third unit from the dealer that was offset. finally i took new ones back to the dealer and said for them to shove it up there ass i pulled mine apart my self put in a bushing and pressed it using a bench clamp a hammer and it worked great for 10 more years
I only replaced the distributor drive gear on my old distributor and I now get the P1345 code. Should I now presume my reluctor wheel is off? I don't understand why the engine runs and starts so well, in spite of this with engine check light always on. Should I presume I've put the drive gear on 180 degrees out?? I don't understand how it can matter where the gear is so long as the roll pin goes through.
There are 13 teeth on that distributor gear. If you knock that roll pin out and put the distributor gear back on 180 degrees from where it is now, you might solve your problem. It will force you to be 13.5 degrees from where you were.
I think it would. I had the same problem trying to replace mine with one I bought off Ebay. I struggled and struggled and just couldn't get everything in sync. Ended up putting the original back in with no problems in just a few minutes. Before I did, I watched this video and compared the old and new. When I compared the splines in relation to that dimple on the old distributor vs the new distributor, I could see that the new distributor gear was off. With the old distributor, that dimple sits perfectly in between the bottom of the two splines when you look at it straight. With the new distributor, the dimple is actually inline with the bottom of one of the splines (or gears whatever) instead of in between two. This is explains it. I looked at the opposite side of the distributor gear though (180 out) and that side lines up with the hole (no dimple on this side but the hole is as good a reference because it's the same hole that's inline with the dimple on the other side) and it sits in between the bottom of the two splines above it. So like you said, if that gear is spun around 180, it should work perfectly. I ended up putting the old one back in though before reading this post so I didn't know it was possible to do so. I'm going to try probably next week.
Huggins idea is key for errant QC manufacturing of cheap new distributor, plus, my 1345 code went away when I slotted the lock plate on one side of the bolt hole, allowing up to 5 degrees or more adjustment. I needed 2.5 due to bad QC. Code is gone! The grippers on the lock plate can be ground away to fit exact, not squeezing. If you have two plates, make them opposite slotting (see uplift lump) and keep them available for the next QC fix.
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can
NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the "
Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
I did the same thing and timed it by ear like we used to do with old '70s cars, all of the sudden as my helper was cranking it and I was slowing turning my distributor in the slot, bang! It started. Tightened it down and have no further problems. I used a rat-tail round rasp file to enlarge the side of the slot where the bolt lines up, about 3/8 inch more. Then, while cranking, I started at ground zero tight against one side and turned it ever so slowly counterclockwise in my filed opening when it finally hit the sweet spot and fired up.
Ive got c1500 with the 4.3 v6 its running 3 codes po300-po420and po446...i changed plugs -wires- cap-button...it runs great till you try keep it at a certain rpm it still misfiring..any thoughts??
Have you tried turning the oil pump to line things up?
I remove the distributor on my 00 chevy express 3500 5.7 and I put it back right away and now the van rank but do not start. Any help. I will be appreciative it
Do you have a video on how to remove the hole distributor
THE PUMP SHAFT IS LINED UP AND THE CAM SHAFT GEAR IS OFF ONE TOOTH. WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT AND EVERY DOTS AND DIMPLES ARE LINED UP IN THE TOP OF THE DISTRIBUTOR SHOWS IT IS OFF ONE TOOTH. FACTORY MISTAKE TAKE IT BACK AND GET ANOTHER ONE. TAKE IT OUT OF THE BOX AND CHECK THE ALIGNMENT, BEFORE LEAVING THE PARTS STORE.
The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
quick question did you buy it brand new ? because I am having the same problem with my new distributor I got from auto zone .
Did you figure it out
i have heard tht you would have to have to have that timed in the computer ,seen it on schrodingers box ....gm got to love it
+Tommy Newhouse - Older 4.3L / Carburetor type, you can " Adjust ". The Auto Fuel Injector is all automatic and you don't have to do anything. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect.
2 Thumbs up on the Video. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :(((((
Jordan Bronson
all you gotta do is turn the oil pump rod slightly with a long screw driver falls right in and problem solved
+Mountain Heart - There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod like you stated above. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :(((((( NOTE: The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
Was the original problem giving you a rough idle
Where did you get these bad distributors?
Turn the inside where the distributor seats to compensate for it being off this is a simple process
Buy a brand new, all aluminum distributor that comes with new ign module from Summit.and call it good....because it will be. Guess how I know. Seriously. P/N SUM-850097, $161.99 as of 1/16/20
Thanks
Thank you, good job!
Was it a card one or dormant part?
Also makes me think is this a AC Delco replacement part of some other name brand .
I heard they could change the timing a few degrees with a scan tool and get rid of the code I reinstalled mine a bit off but it runs perfect just throws a code
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
Hey scot having a issue cyl 4 misfire after new distributor
Did it again, DORMAN, DORMAN.
I don't care for Dorman bad luck parts don't work right
If the re-manufacturing process is outsourced to foreign companies, who's to say that the quality control is up to snuff?
Great video and to all you cry babies talking shit just keep scrolling no need for the hate !!!
How do we know if crank is not 180 degrees out when setting chain on 2000 S10 4.3 Vortec
you need to verify the piston is coming up on compression. use your finger, cover the hole, and when you feel it blowing/pushing your finger back, you are coming up on compression. then just use the crank marks to align TDC.
This worked for me. Also, what you said in another video about dropping the distributor in and turning the crankshaft to get it to seat all the way in worked perfectly. The splines already are making contact so it's still in time after being turned. Then, just crank the crankshaft the opposite direction back to TDC so you know you're still on the compression stroke and it should be inline with "6." That is so much easier than trying to turn the oil pump part with a screwdriver where it receives the distributor. Hopefully, others see your comments because they made it a breeze to put in.
Julio Bermudez Yeah, my dad was a Ford tech for 35 years. He used to hate dilly dallying with the Chevy dizzy all under the firewall. So one day I was sitting on top of an engine, cursing just about everything, and he was like hey now you know why Chevies are a pain, but here check this trick out...
I was like thumbs up... Thx old man.
Not at all on no1 tdc the pointer will be pointed to the first corner on the distributor on the driver side of the vehicle you will have to put the no6 piston at tdc to use the 6 in the cap
Like rating well deserved!
THANX
is it possible to put the rotor in 180 degrees out?
Erin Davis
There are 2 Types of 4.3L Engines... #1 - Is the Carburetor Type. #2 - Is the Auto Injection. The Carburetor Type, you can " Adjust " the Oil Pump Rod like you stated above. But the Auto Fuel Injection, you can't adjust anything, they are set just to drop-in. :(((((( NOTE: The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
I got the same problem. Distributor not aligned
Was your blazer backfiring before you replaced the distributor? My 1998 Z-71 8 cylinder started backfiring and I have tried everything to try to fix it with no luck. It not firing from the cap to the plug on the 2nd and 8th cylinder.
It was around the late 95 cuz I have a 95 blazer with that same cap
My Dad have a 2001 S10 - It's the same Cap. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect. I am having the same problem right now :((((( My Video Here: ua-cam.com/video/nYlIAOqpA0U/v-deo.html
So all that said the bottom line is they do not make Auto parts worth a damn anymore !!! I have the same engine and I had a similar issue with the poppets on my spider injection they were just a little too big it's hard to find good help LOL
GOOD AUDIO BUT VIDEO IS BAD TO MUCH MOVING....i KNOW HOW IT IS WITH 1 PERSON,,,BUT ITS ALL GOOD GUY..HEY WHY DONT U CUT THE HOLD DOEN CLAMP WHERE THE HOLE IS AND INVERT A TOP OVER HOLD DOWN PIECE OF METAL WITH A HOLE IN IT AND PUT THE BOLT THROUGH THE NEW HOLD DOWN OVER LAY IT AND TIGHTEN...YOU CONVERT IT TO FREE MOVE LIKE THE OLDER ONES, JUST TO TURN IT A FRACTION.
jay angstadt
Pop the pin out from the gear to the shaft and rotate the gear 180. Problem solved.
The only other thing I would try is freeze it and see if it would turn
How t.f. do you adjust timing on a non moveable distributor???
You don't. The computer controls the timing, assuming you have the distributor installed correctly as was described in this video.
will a 96 distributor work in a 95
Dont think so diffetent set up. Wiring also differs. I face ssme issue i was told to change gas tank- wiring harness- computer etc.
It was a manufacturing defect. They probably got a bunch of returns and handled the problem or went out of business. What brand was it?
Please next time try getting to thé point without all those annoying breaks and repeats of thé same info. Thx for bringing this problem to light.
That stock distributor is a POS. Amazon has an aluminum aftermarket one for $41 shipped which is really nice.
bought the same but mine was off
Hmm, my new amazon distributor arrived today. Appears better then the old original. All aluminum housing. The old one was part plastic that was cracked from heat and age. Aligning the dimples with both on the bench, all seems OK. Shall see this weekend. Having a little difficulty finding the oil pump slot to align distributor shaft. I can see it, just can't get the screw driver aligned.
easy way to do this is remove the dist when its aligned for the sensor to be pulled takes all the math work out
Damn spellchecker, I meant cardone or dormant, sorry.
i`m having the same problem ,freaking new distributor with gear misaligned
+scrowty mcbugerballs - You are NOT alone, I too have the same problem. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect.
Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
Mine had to be replaced because it was screeching like a swarm of bees.
Wow, I thought I was crazy
Nope you are NOT crazy... I have the same issues... Here is what I found out.... With an " Automatic Injection " ... You can NOT turn the " Reluctor Wheel " at all, it's fixed. If you have the " Carburetor " type, you can turn it and aligned until you get TDC. YES!
If the distributor gear is an odd number of teeth and is pinned 180* out you will be half tooth off.
File the hold down bolt hole to a slot, problem solved
I have no spark to plugs but
You’ve been CHINA ZONEDDDDDD
Dude your wrong when you say your cam reluctor wheel is pressed on incorrectly.
I too have the same problem. The " Reluctor Wheel " is the Problem, they are " Pressed In " by the Manufacturer and it's incorrect.
and i thought i had lost my mine
Nope problem is that plastic gear on the old one is worn and it's jumped lol man you should never work on a car again