P1345 code fix! Chevy, GMC, Silverado, suburban etc
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Repair on the P1345 Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation check engine code! Chevrolet and GMC trucks 5.7l 5.0l 4.3l
I got the idea from another UA-camr on cutting the distributor cap open! Here is his video: • How to Fix P1345 code ...
Dude that was absolute genius... why have I never thought of this. Bravo man thank you for the lesson. And good job
Thanks Brandon!!
@@TheGaginator I have a 96 5.7 Tahoe. Starts easy idles fine. Hesitates when driving. Any ideas?
That code tells you that the distributor isn't phased/timed properly. The ECM detected that the rotor phasing wasn't what it expected during operation and set the code. Glad you got it sorted.
I’ll use the old cap I just swapped on my dads truck I just inherited. Man I really appreciate you passing this on. This ode has been on since I put a new motor in 12 years ago (only 30k tho). Pretty sure that the hiccup feeling when the converter locks up. Thanks again and Happy Thanksgiving 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment! fixing this code should help if the engine is sluggish ive noticed
Thanks for the great video! I’ve had the same code for years, finally fixed!
Woohoo!! Im so glad the video was helpful
@@TheGaginator I haven't had yet to fix mine yet though. Driving to work the transmission cooler hose sprung a leak and after fixing it and refilling. I don't have 3rd and 4th gears.😭💸
Unorthodox yes, but perfect for a poor country boy like me who doesn’t have fancy diagnostic equipment or money to pay a mechanic. Thanks so much brother!
Thank you!! You can do it!!
It appears when the distributor was replaced, it was installed one tooth off. glad you got it sorted! If the code comes back, all you need to do is pull the distributor up, rotate to the right a tiny bit and reengage the distributor gear to the cam. At that point, zeroing it out will be much easier. There's a +/- 2 degree from "0" spec for this. Cheers! Zip~
I was thinking slack in the timing chain, but it would have the same symptoms
At that mileage it's slack in the timing chain. Literally just went through this on my Tahoe. Thought I was a tooth off as well.
A tooth is much more distance than the groove he made in the hold down. I'm going thru this right now, I've tried moving it "one tooth" so many times and still the issue
One tooth = around 51+ degrees of timing. Distributor has14 teeth....(720 degrees of engine rotation divided by number of teeth)
You did a much better job at explaining it than the other vid. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment!
thanks for the info. i was fighting the p1345 for months and the ole hole in the distributor cap got me running right. thanks for putting this together.
Im really glad this video was helpful to you!
Do u got random misfire ?
I've been driving with this code for about a year. terrible gas mileage Awesome video thanks for sharing. 👍
Hopefully it helps you!
awesome video exactly what i needed, put new distributor in and had to align it, thanks
Heck yeah!! You can do it!!
Thank you sir. Like many on here, I had the 1345 code. I had a mechanic replace the lower intake manifold gasket. Then when he installed the distributer it was a tooth off. I asked him to adjust the timing. He told me that I needed a new distributer and rotor along with more labor time. But these parts were new. I did the trick you showed in the video and drove over 40 miles and still no code. Ready for emissions thanks to this awesome video.
WOOHOO!!! I am so glad it helped you!
Great video! Question, I've just replaced my distributor and everything seems to be running fine, mostly. I seem to have a stutter every now and again. It's a 1997 Tahoe 5.7L. I've hooked up my OBD2 scanner and I'm not pulling any codes. However, it's showing my timing is around 27-28° advanced at idle. My understating is that it should be 0°. When I replaced it, I did set it to TDC but did I go to far and set it on the exhaust stroke? Please, any advice would greatly be appreciated.
Wow...seeing the actual timing of the spark is amazing. Thanks for the video man! Problem solved here! New Accel distributor has the same hold down. Slotted and done!
Ha it is WAY cool!! I am glad this video helped you!
Interior is super clean 🤩
Thanks! I just redid all of it. New carpet, seats, etc
Like yoy said,is not an orthodox way to do it but what the heck, you find and solve the problem!! So thanks a lot for your idea and your video.
Thank you sir!
Nice job thank you much information and demonstration you answered my questions keep up the great work 👍
Woohoo!! Thanks for the comment
Thank you for the p1345 spark class
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I've had the same issue since May. I put a new distributor in a week ago. It gave the same code. My son in law sent me your video. Problem solved. I just need to drive it until code drops, so I can pass my emission test to renew my registration. Thanks for the video!
Glad I could help!!
gracias amigo me fue de mucha utilidad tu vídeo,ya me suscribí a ti canal, saludos y mucho éxito 👍
¡Gracias por el comentario amigo! me alegro que este video te haya sido de ayuda
There used to be a clear cap, that made this even easier, but thay have become non existent. Did my intake gaskets a few years ago and still get this code, mines off -14 but I have HP tuners I'll be using that. Hopefully i wont have to pull it again" lol.. Good vid.
OOh I totally forgot about those clear caps!! That would be a great idea if they could be found. Thank you sir!
Great video I may try this even though I'm not getting that code I'd still like to see where my spark is at. The original hold down allows adjustment but a lot of aftermarkets have a fixed hold down plate. If you replace your distributor don't throw away that hold down plate.
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What I have found with aftermarket distributors - Is the pinion gear is installed 180 Degrees at assembly - This is enough to make the tooth off a small amount and place a code - Remove roll pin - rotate gear - It works
Huh, very good insight here!
I did the exact same thing after years of issues - removed the pin, rotated gear - fixed my problem
It work for my 2000 suburban thank you
Woo!!
I'm going to change the Cam sensor $16 part . I tried moving the distributor several times. It never worked. I was told that computer can adjust timing like up to 25 degrees which is huge. If your cam sensor is bad that code will come back. The system is then running off the crank sensor only. One seems to be the back up for the other. Hence the reason it will run perfectly until both the crank and cam sensor are both out. At which point in time you will not be able to start the engine until you replace one or both of them. Change one or both to clear the code is most likely the best route.
Correct info. Even if you move the distributor, it will not actually change the timing since the ignition event is controlled by sensors. A stretched timing change can also cause these codes
I had the same problem
Could not figure it out
Damnit you are good
Thank you for the kind words:)
I have the same code on the toyota corolla(run x shape) 2003 model and the car loses power especially when climbing, delay start. We've tried retiming the car couple of times and run for about a mile then the car will drop the power then pop the "check engine" light again with the same code.😔😔
This is a totally different engine and engine management system
This helped out, thank you very much! Btw what headlight assembly is that? Maybe you have more videos explaining that. I'll have a look see.
Thanks!! here are the headlights amzn.to/3n8vcSg
You're a genius!
Ha hey thanks!
Great video! 🇺🇸 🦅
thanks!
Back in the day we used a timing light and the distributer was rotatable.
Yup yup. Timed a 1956 Mercury yesterday the "normal" way haha.
Okay Sir so I've tried finding this square type lockdown tab at 6 different parts houses and can't find one anywhere. Where did you buy it
It came from autozone
Great job
Thanks!!
I just got my engine rebuild and I have that same code. And it is backfiring on take off. Switch way did you turn the distributor?
It could be either way. The only way to know for sure is to cut a cap and check the spark arc
I don’t understand why if the distributor is new the sensor is bad? I got same problem but I adjusted the timing w flash light and still same code … so the sensor inside of my distributor is bad?
Possibly. I have been finding more and more BAD new parts lately. It is extremely frustrating to have to deal with faulty parts right out of the box. For my electrical parts, I try to always use OEM now.
Man I'm getting that same code but mine won't start just backfires has spark and has fuel what do you think? My customer was backing out the driveway and it just shut off and now it won't start
Id start with a compression check to see if the valve train is the issue, or electrical timing
I'm having the same problem with. Y 1997 chevy vortec distributor hopefully I can duplicate your Success thanks for Sharing
You can do it!
Interesting. I always thought that the aftermarket cap hold down was built without any movement because it aligned things correctly. Nice fix with slotting the hole and adjusting for minimum spark length.
Thanks! This was a new concept to me at the time.
My problem on my '98 GMC K1500 ended up being the distributor gear was worn so much that the teeth almost came to a point. I'm working on my wife's '97 Suburban K1500 now that has three codes, 154, 300, and 1345. Any tips on what an old-school mechanic might check or look for?
You may have a worn out timing chain, and or oiling issues causing the gear wear
I did find out my spark was arcing at an angle according to the tracking on the cap terminals so I turned my distributor to correct it. My "misfire" code went away but not my 1345. Next I'll check the movement of the crankshaft compared to the rotor button to see if there is any delay in the rotor moving, if so, it's time to replace the timing chain and gears. First though, I'll verify that my rotor is pointing where it should be a tdc, or a fraction before tdc. If it ain't, that's my problem and need to reclock my distributor possibly.
i changed cam and crank sensors and still get that code, does it need a relearn? mechanic put a new distributor, could he have messed it up?
New distributors are the common cause of this code. If you followed the video advice and still have the code, I can say you most certainly need a new timing set
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
That is a very expensive job, Its more likely that the timing chain is stretched that the cam being bad. I have never heard of a worn cam causing this
2300 was the quote I got it has 157000 miles rn
Needs to be over 1000 rpms for computer to recognize the change or it'll still run bad
This style distributor has a square housing where the holdown fork goes. This limits rotating the distributor and is designed that way. It in NOT like the old small blocks that use this to time the spark. Vortecs are not supposed to be rotated (other than a degree or so) If the distributor is installed correctly, there is no need to slot anything. Chances are you are tooth off on the distributor install or have a worn shaft gear
You are correct that the distributor should NOT need to be adjusted. However the aftermarket has been making bad parts for these trucks for a while now, and I have run into this issue a few times. It seems to be with autozone parts. I dont think i have seen it with any other brand, but someone did mention this issue with an Accel brand.
Almost 300k mi id assume timing chain has slack in it. Did this to my 4.3 blazer after 250k cause I was too lazy to replace timing chain.
SS 195 what's about timing chain stretch cam and crank they talk to each other rethink 🤔
@@hajrudinkavazovic2231 That will affect timing but only a fraction of a degree. There is a little play in the fork, enough to compensate for that. I've found more variation in aftermarket distributors that can result in this code and need to be adjusted.
I just replaced my brothers distributor tonight with same one and noticed that with the hold down they send I could not set it back in same way it came out so put the original hold down back on because it allows you to turn the distributor so I then set distributor right where it was and it is good now
OOH that is good to know about using the old down!
That is brilliant!
I still still use this tool! haha
Got this same code coming up on my 2001 Chevy S10 ZR2 and about 4 years ago my dad replaced the crankshaft position sensor and that seemed to sort it out until now and it's back, which I just got a cheap crankshaft position sensor off Amazon. Because why pay $70 for the made in China one at Advance when I got the same made in China one off Amazon for $13. I also just put a starter on the truck, it was bad I had them check it so it was in need of one. But now the codes back and it's slow to start, so I ordered another crankshaft position sensor off Amazon that'll be here today and it doesn't take but a few minutes to install it. Last time I wasn't the one to install it, so this time I'll do it myself so I can check the pigtail and everything. I've also heard after installing a new one it's best to let the truck warm up then rev the engine up to around 4,000 rpm's as that's part of the systems learning of the new sensor. If that doesn't fix my problem I'll try out what you're doing here. It's a good solid truck I've got, only has 94,000 miles on it, was one owner which was my uncle who bought it brand new and he had someone put new brake lines, new plugs, wires, and distributor and sold the truck to me for $1,200. My dad who passed away almost 3 yrs ago was a US Army mechanic and taught me everything I know so I've never taken a vehicle I've owned in my almost 44 yrs on this earth to a garage, I like doing the work myself as I know it's done right. So great video! If the new crankshaft position sensor doesn't help me today, I'll be giving this a try if hopefully the weather doesn't get too nasty here on me.
Also the check engine light has been on on the truck since I bought it, but after the new crankshaft position sensor was installed almost 4 yrs ago it started, ran & drove fine. Right after I put on a brand new starter (the old one was original & was really toast, I let them check it after removing it & before buying a new one) and started the truck it, it started fine & ran, it was also the first time that the check engine light and P1345 code didn't come on. Then the very next day I went to start it, it would crank and crank and took a while to start up (I know the teeth on the flywheel are good because I checked it when I put on the new starter) and the light and code are back. So once the mail runs today I'll have another crankshaft position sensor I'll put on it, and this time I'll do the learning thing that wasn't done the first time. Hopefully that will fix it. If not there's this video to give a try, as I know the plugs, wires and distributor are new. It doesn't help we get a lot of inferior parts, but like I said while Advance & other parts stores want right around $70 for that tiny lil crankshaft position sensor that's made in China I was able to pick up the same brand etc for $13 off Amazon so I don't mind giving it a shot. I know the last new one I put on it fixed the problem as far as slow to start, so we'll see.
So I'd be interested to know did that fix it, has the code come back? Because as I said mine finally went away after putting on a new starter but the very next time after starting up the truck it came back. I have that same exact scanner you use as well. Before years ago putting on a new crankshaft position sensor didn't clear the code but it did make it start and drive much better, then after changing the starter the code was gone, but now it's back and cranks but is very slow to start. So it's the new sensor & then giving this video a try I guess. Do I need to worry about filling that hole if I have to drill one in the distributor or will it be fine if it's left open?
Would not take advice from someone who thinks you can buy a quality electronic sensor made in china then shipped half way around the world and delivered to your front door for $13😂
I can move my rotor up and down about a quarter of an inch on my 99 Tahoe.
Is this normal or is my distributor worn out out and needs to be replaced?
Its fucking broke lol
That’s normal
My hold down clamp won’t allow me to adjust mine. I have a MSD and can’t adjust. I am going to manufacture a nee clamp
You have to slot the clamp yourself. They are not adjustable
@@TheGaginator yea I found that out. Gonna make one at work to fit. We have a full machine shop and water jet table
I got the exact same problem , 5.7 Vortex , new distributor , goid power , persistent code , that points where to go
good luck!!
Would this code cause the ecm to not send spark?
No, that will be a different cause
I have this code and po300 ...for some reason my distrubutor was loose cause my truck to vibration and rough idling then i bought a new one install it right now its still misfire take it to the shop they staid lobe on cam must be worn out...
If the distributor was loose, the gear on the cam could be toast
Did you get rid of the code?
YES! 2k miles have gone by since this video
Wouldn’t a crank/cam relearn work?
No sir.
If you run out of adjustment on the distributor and you can't get the P1345 to turn off, especially with that amount of mileage, it's probably time for a new timing chain.
THIS^^
Can't verify if code cleared until you do a complete drive cycle, which typically is 10-15 miles of driving it various conditions.
Correct, but if this is your problem, the code will come back within the first 5 minutes or less of idle, I've tested this process several times now
The fixed hold down is meant for the v6, the v8s should have the old style hold down that allow you to rotate the distributor using a scanner to set it to 0 deg with +/-2 tolerance. You can get it close enough not to throw a code but still be out of the tolerance.
Maybe so, but this hold down comes on many GM v8s of this year.
Where did you get these headlights?
Amazon
I've been though this you got to line up your oil pump with your dis...
Oil pump and distributor correlation will not throw a code, or maybe I misunderstand your comment.
Great video. Question I have is, if you have the
?
Yes I have the
@@TheGaginator sorry for the incomplete question. Memory is shot. Thanks for the reply.
Where did you get those headlights??
I'll sell them to you. They were super hard to find online. The customer didn't like them, so we are going with another look.
So you all u did was turn the distributor?
Yes, that's it! You cannot turn the distributor without modifying the hold down though on these engines
@@TheGaginator what you mean without modifying the hold down
You a bad Cat!!!
ooo yeah
Be careful people's doing this issue if u play with the spark you just need little fuel to blow engine on flame check first fuel leak test to do this kind job be careful 🔥
I’m a Toyota dude 22r/e gmc is like futuristic to me I’m going to buy a gmc box truck and the owner saying it has. Code p1345
So hopefully I can do this if anyone has a video of what he did step by step i really appreciate I know I’m asking too much but I’m not a mechanic 😂
I dont see how this actuall changes anything
That's ok !
I fixed that code now i have a random misfire
Make 100% sure your timing is correct
A tune up and did not fix that code. Hard to start is a symptom of this code. Is the distributor turned by the cam gear or the crank gear, maybe that has something to do with the name of the sensor. Your metal hold down does not adjust the timing, rotating the distributor adjusts the timing, the hold down that you elongated the hole is only a hold down bracket. I hope you dont go back to the mechanic, part of a tune up is to set the timing, in your case, if I am not mistaken, its zero degrees at 1000 RPM plus or minus 2 degrees.That spec should also be on a sticker under the hood and maybe in the owners manual. If your man did not have a timing light or a scanner to show that timing that you had, probably over 15 degrees? dont go back there and tell everybody you know not to go back there. How many years for the timing not being properly set, WTF.
Huh? You make zero sense. The guy did it right. Pipe down.
Guy never said he is adjusting the timing. He is adjusting CMP cam crank correlation. Personally I'm not spending 1000 on a snap on. I have Palmer performance and their mobile app also. BUT unreliable most of the time. Center the spark to the cylinder of choice by cutting the hole and then clear the code and investigate. Least expensive method period. Great video.
Duane Donaldson, you are "kind of right" and mostly wrong. Back in the old days, all distributors had a hold-down plate with a long slot in it for the hold-down bolt, so that when the distributor was installed, the timing could be re-corrected within 15 - 20 degrees to set it at factory specs. The "timing" is the correlation of the spark in time to the position of the crankshaft measuring from Top Dead Center (TDC). When the newer ignition systems took over after the HEI had its day, they allowed the computer to adjust the actual timing based on where the cam and crank were in relation to each other. There is no longer a vacuum advance, because the computer knows where the throttle position is, it knows how much Mass Air Flow there is, and how much fuel the injectors are putting in the cylinders, as well as engine temperature, ambient air temperature, engine load, O2 Sensor reading, etc. The best way to allow the computer full access is to set the engine at a pre-set "base" timing of O degrees, and within milliseconds of start-up, the actual timing of the spark in the cylinder is varied by the computer with no mechanical movement. The new distributors come with a specific set of instructions on how to install a replacement distributor to align it perfectly with TDC. The problem is that the hold-down bracket that comes with them is attached to a square shaft and pressed into place with a purpose of not allowing anyone to turn the distributor in an attempt to "set the timing." The bolt hole in the hold-down plate is a round hole that does no allow for turning the distributor once it is installed. If the timing chain and/or gears start to wear and allow some slack in the mechanical timing of the valves to the cylinder, it will cause the reading to increase and the "timing" will be off. Instead of replacing the timing chain and gears, and many times the actual distributor, too (because they are made of plastic and wear out quickly) mechanics have found a great "workaround" that takes care of this code easily. If you have a scanner with live data, you can see the live data feed of how much the timing specs are off due to "base" timing not being correct anymore. By the time the computer turn on a code, it is usually 10 - 15 - 20 degrees off. No amount of "tune-up" parts will fix this problem. What we do now is leave the distributor in the hole and remove the hold-down plate and simply grind a slot in it to allow movement of the distributor. Then we re-install the hold-down plate and start the engine and move the distributor some, accelerate the engine above 1,000 RPM, and watch the live data. It takes engine speed variations over 1,000 RPM to re-set the read-out, and it may take two or three adjustments to get it as close as possible to zero. The factory spec is zero degrees, plus or minus 2 degrees. Anywhere in that zone is great. At that point you have re-set the "base" timing that the computer will use for further timing adjustments, and the code, once cleared, will stay away. To be honest, I am surprised that the aftermarket has not started selling new hold-down plates for these distributors with the slot already cut in them.
interesting...
very, I am dealing with this right now.
not interesting, very bad mechanic doing a tune up where setting the timing is part of a tune up, very very sad.
@@duanedonaldson2262 ever had to deal with one of these?
@@michaelstjohn6086 you may rest your case. Lol
Bro the hold down doesn't need afjustment the distributor is a circle you loosen it and it will turn left and right lop all the hold down does is hold it from spinning no need to enlarge the bolt hole lmfao
Incorrect. The distributors on these engines are not round, they are square at the base. That's the whole reason I made this video. It is no possible to adjust them like the older ones.
👎 how to over think a problem :-/
You optimized the spark at idle rpm, but didn't work the problem further in your head and realize the ignition timing is going to advance as the rpm's are brought up. Also at idle the air/fuel charge in the cylinder is very thin and has very small loadd on ignition spark. When the vehicle is on the road and/or pulling a load, spark load is high, but now your cap and rotor are out of phase.
You failed the, "if some is good, more must be better" test.
No way man. The cap and rotor was out of phase to begin with, that's why the truck threw a code. There was a verified issue with the castings of the Duralast brand distributors.
@@TheGaginatoragain you over think this.... The distributor housing, cap and rotor, are surprisingly well dimensioned. The problem lies with the accuracy of the drive gear and the precision with which it is indexed to the distributor shaft.
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