I just did this on mine. $500 tahoe, someone sold it to me cause they couldn't get the check engine light to go off. Now I have a perfect 1998 tahoe with no check engine light. Thank you for this video.
Great video I have been digging for info as I'm stuck with a few issues on a 99 tahoe 5.7. I do suspect it is needing an adj of the distributor after I noticed the old cap had most wear (arc oxidation ) on the edges not center of the spark terminals of the rotor and cap. Years back I found and bought a distributor cap ( Accel brand maybe) made of clear plastic to fit a Honda Accord back when I was fighting ignition issues on one of those. It was very handy to use to aid in diagnosis and pretty cool to see in action in the dark too. I wish I had a clear cap for this 5.7.
Been banging my head for years on this bullshit problem on these vortec 350's awsome work around brotha love the video very descriptive. Doing this tonight to clear this code👍
Nice cap setup. If you ever want half a tooth you can knock out the roll pin and spin it 180 relative to the distributor shaft. I think it wrong on lots of the cheap distributors. Shim the gear while you're at it 0.010" is best,
Nice idea on the cap. Just one thing though, THOSE ARE NOT DIODES!!! They are aluminum Electrodes. A diode allows current to flow one way in a electric circuit. So don't call them diodes, you'll just confuse beginners. Call them Electrodes.
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
Towards the end of your video he check engine light came on again, was that because of the timing of some other code besides the P1345? Thank you in advance!
Thanks for the video. Question? I have a 97 Tahoe 5.7l Vortec. Just replace my distributor and seems to be running better, no codes. However, I still feel and hear a stutter. Hooked up my OBD2 scanner it's showing timing 27-28° advanced. When I replaced it, did I set TDC on the exhaust stroke? I'm pretty sure it should be 0°. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Awesome info video.just replaced my old distributor w new one and got a P 1345 code.but I made SURE that rotor blade was pointed right at the #1diode.started right up and drove for 3 miles and ran great but code was noticed when l pulled into a shade d area and seen check engine light.SUCKS l gotta pull that new distributor again 98 chevy k1500 4wd.its a bitch to get to!!!
I just did this on mine. $500 tahoe, someone sold it to me cause they couldn't get the check engine light to go off. Now I have a perfect 1998 tahoe with no check engine light. Thank you for this video.
Great video I have been digging for info as I'm stuck with a few issues on a 99 tahoe 5.7. I do suspect it is needing an adj of the distributor after I noticed the old cap had most wear (arc oxidation ) on the edges not center of the spark terminals of the rotor and cap.
Years back I found and bought a distributor cap ( Accel brand maybe) made of clear plastic to fit a Honda Accord back when I was fighting ignition issues on one of those. It was very handy to use to aid in diagnosis and pretty cool to see in action in the dark too. I wish I had a clear cap for this 5.7.
Pretty slick. No timing gun, no high dollar diagnostic equipment, just a extra distributor cap with view ports. Nicely done ✔
You don't use a timing light to time these motors
@@cable1328 what do you use then?
This is the best description of this whole situation I have ever seen...great video, man, thanks a lot!
0pppl.l00l lop⁰0 poo pp ppl
I realized this was my problem when I pulled the cap and saw carbon tracks on the diode, to the far edge of the diode, not the center.
Thanks for this video. Great idea. Worked on my 1998 Silverado. Putting a new crankshaft position sensor in next.
Been banging my head for years on this bullshit problem on these vortec 350's awsome work around brotha love the video very descriptive. Doing this tonight to clear this code👍
Good video bro. I’ll be digging into my 96 c1500 Sunday to do this.
I never seen that the distributor Sparking!!!!that's Genius !!!!!!! thanks for Sharing!!!!!!!!
Not 2 many know this let alone pass it on...u rock sir!!
Nice cap setup. If you ever want half a tooth you can knock out the roll pin and spin it 180 relative to the distributor shaft. I think it wrong on lots of the cheap distributors. Shim the gear while you're at it 0.010" is best,
Nice idea on the cap. Just one thing though, THOSE ARE NOT DIODES!!! They are aluminum Electrodes. A diode allows current to flow one way in a electric circuit. So don't call them diodes, you'll just confuse beginners. Call them Electrodes.
Shut the fuck up Ed. No beginner is gonna be setting their cam to crank correlation
Very nice I saw a guy drill the distributor hold down hold so it could be adjusted instead of pulling the distributor. Did the same thing.
Great demonstration, I'm looking forward to more videos!
Juanita Wright thank you for supporting me always
Subscribed, that was a really good explanation. Thank you!
Another great video for this issue. I solved mine this way..
Excelente, muchas gracias por el tip, bien explicado, 2 thumbs up 👍 👌 👏
Awesome video for the 1345 code, you made it clear and easy, but what caused it to slip, timing chain wear??
So how did fix it did you have to pull the distributor completely out and redrop it in or did you just spin it
How did you move it w your hand?
Your a freakin genius bro 👏
hello thanks for the video I will try this tomorrow,
Im new at this. Were you running the vehicle without the distributor rotor ? Also what way did you turned the distributor cap when the van died ?
Just subbed needed this
We adjusted distributive which direction do you turn it
Whoa. That's really great.
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
Question . So when you pulled the distributor and set it back down. Did you TDC it again or just where it was at that moment. And moved one tooth over
Nice job so this happens if you don't stab the distributor in the right spot ?
Where Yu live in not getting code but my spark advance is reading negative yes -28
Can I do this on a 97 gmc
If it’s a Vortec yes you can
Yon never shut the engine off... ??? Explain!
Towards the end of your video he check engine light came on again, was that because of the timing of some other code besides the P1345? Thank you in advance!
He stated in the video that it was MAP sensor because he didn't have it plugged in
way it looks that sometimes spark goes away?
That spark has to hit 7 other points too
Thank you!
How did you adjust?
Same thing im wondering
Thanks for the video. Question? I have a 97 Tahoe 5.7l Vortec. Just replace my distributor and seems to be running better, no codes. However, I still feel and hear a stutter. Hooked up my OBD2 scanner it's showing timing 27-28° advanced. When I replaced it, did I set TDC on the exhaust stroke? I'm pretty sure it should be 0°. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
28°is about how far off it will be if you're 1 tooth off.
THANK YOU
Thanks
Awesome info video.just replaced my old distributor w new one and got a P 1345 code.but I made SURE that rotor blade was pointed right at the #1diode.started right up and drove for 3 miles and ran great but code was noticed when l pulled into a shade d area and seen check engine light.SUCKS l gotta pull that new distributor again 98 chevy k1500 4wd.its a bitch to get to!!!
They are NOT DIODES!!! Aluminum towers, those are just conductors. NOT DIODES!!!
@@edcrabb pretty much diodes 😆.
Thank you