Did a tuneup on a 99 Escalade. And came up with this code did not have a $2,000 scanner or a lab scope I used a OBD2 scanner and watch the timing on the scanner I got it as close as I could and locked it down it worked great no codes no light No errors. Knowledge is power
Not all odb2 scanners are created equal. Mine only shows timing adavance while running and at that point the computer takes over and tries to correct the timing.
Okay guys reaching out for another issue with my Tahoe.... 🤦🏾♂️ Has anybody found that a specific part of the power steering system will leak? I'm having trouble finding what could be the issue or would you recommend changing the power steering pump...
Little advice for the experts. If it works then its not stupid. Everyone has to go through the process of learning. I could never find a straight answer. Lined up tdc on the number 8 and all that jazz. This is what worked for me and I keep the holy cap in my tool box. Works everytime for me. The real douche are the know it alls that try to belittle efforts. Like they never had to learn anything. They were simply born walking and have a vast knowledge of the vortec. You gotta learn to ealk before you run. So if Im a douche for sharing a short cut that I learned also on youtube then so be it. Im a douche, but Im a douche with no check engine light.
Still having issues getting this adjusted right, you're saying cylinder 8 but Chilton's manual tells me to be top dead center and pointed at cylinder 1. It started up when I replace the distributor just keep getting 1345 code, and the most recent time I adjusted it after filling the holes and trying to look at the ark across the distributor I got a huge misfires now. Any suggestions please 😁
@@martycarroll3192 When looking at the spark through the hole that is drill at the number 5 terminal you and see the spark reach the number 5 clearly. Slowly rotate the distributor until the spark is perpendicular. If the distributor does not move enough to align them then you are off one tooth on your cam.
@@aggrobob79 so if I need to move it am I loosing that bolt and picking the distributor up turning it clockwise once and sending it back in or do I move it counterclockwise? I'm going to try to take a video and upload it so people see what I'm asking. You've been more help than the shop I've taken it to and left it for a few days they told me nothing was wrong with it and I needed a new distributor... 🤣 I took it to scan it at auto parts store and had 5 codes. It's been hard to find an honest shop for sure
@@martycarroll3192 it will depend what side of the terminal the spark is coming from. I have a Tahoe current that runs and drives fine but it's one tooth off. I can see the spark coming from the left of the terminal meaning I have to move one tooth clockwise.
@@aggrobob79 gotcha! Think that makes sense if I'm visualizing what you're saying right. It's raining now so I can't go out there and seebut I'll definitely keep you posted thank you for all your help
I watched this then did a face palm. Makes sense, going to try this. Sure a lot faster than lining stuff up by eyeball.( #1 piston up to top on compression , Line up timing mark on damper. Pull cap and Mark where #1 is exactly on on distributor body , rotate dist. till mark lines up with rotor.) That's the old way to do it.
BeckBuilt Thank you for a good video; I had also seen the one on the aircraft mechanic who came up with this idea of drilling holes in the distributor cap. Probably he was not the first. But I saw it first there. I have a Blazer with a 4.3 engine, plastic distributor. I broke one of the ears off that hold the cap on. Purchased new aluminum distributor and installed from information that I had learned on You tube. Also the gear on old distributor was very worn. I also might add that I had replaced the roller timing chain to an upgraded chain. I did a lot of research on how to relearn the cam and crank. Never found what I wanted which was the face of a scanner and the actual adjustment bringing the adjustment into the + or - of 0. The 4.3 has a hold down bracket that does not allow you to rotate the distributor. I drilled mine out a little larger which allowed some adjustment. On pushing the engine hard it would throw a code for random misfire. Purchase techron additive and added to fuel tank to clean injectors. It did seem to help. If you read forums; this engine likes AC Delco products, purchase ac cap and rotor, and broke the ear of the plastic distributor. Now the new aluminum distributor, dropped it in the same place as the old and did not get the P1345 but shift points were not right on transmission. Took it to shop and paid the price to have it scanned. On the way home traveling uphill it threw a code for #4 cylinder misfire. Called the shop and he said he would work with me. Explored the misfire and found that the plug was arcing down the side and shorting it out. Smelled gas on the plug, so injector was working, removed wire and was good. New plug and misfire is gone. Still not good on hills and shifting. Did not have this problem of shifting with old distributor. So I question my scan relearn! I had drilled out a cap earlier but could not find it. Drilled a new one but only one big hole near back by firewall. When you are laying on top of the engine that was good enough. (" When you are fine tuning you rotate the distributor until the spark jumps directly across to the electrode.") I got that quote from you. Mine is not doing that. There are some interesting articles about rotor phasing (MSD 8421 Distributor Rotor) Their site shows distributor cap being drilled and changing the spark pattern as rotor is adjusted. I have purchased this from amazon and do not have it yet. I did not drill out the hold down bracket on this distributor. The hole in the manifold is larger than the distributor base and I was concerned that it might wear the distributor gear. Old distributor slopped around this hole a lot and maybe caused the wear on the gear. So should be able to fine tune it with the rotor. I have enjoyed reading the comments and we can learn from them. Thanks again for a good video and explanation.
You are awesome my friend .that's going to help me out so much ony 7.4 vortec.i kept wondering how am I going to time this stupid thing .now I know .thank you very much.
I learned this method from another video and it was priceless. I had this code for years and never worried about it until it started causing the caps to fail early with heavy deposits on the contact points. Thats when I got on the tube and watched a video like this and solved it. Thanks for this video!
this is how the old timers would do stuff- just excellent.. love the haters - they obviously dont really understand/get "it". Book boys at best they are...
Question. You turned the distributor? I thought it had a stationary hold down. Which direction? What if you cleared code, and tried turning it a little at a time until code stays off? Spare the cap.
I got this code on my 99 tahoe. Just bought it and decided id give it a tune up, plugs wires and what not and everything noticed the previous owner had replaced the distributor, did it correctly but didnt tighten the darn thing down properly.
I didn't adjust one tooth at a time. When the truck was off I stabbed the distributor to the number 8 cylinder. In older 350s you line up on the number one cylinder. When you are fine tuning you rotate the distributor until the spark jumps directly across to the electrode.
Awesome video! 👍 Could I just turn the distributer without holes until I find the sweet spot? Because I'm working on this code today and po102. Thanks!
At the base of the distributor is a 1/2 inch bolt hold a v-shape plate against the distributor. Loosen that bolt and the distributor will rotate in place.
why would you have to drill 5 holes...why not just 2? all the sparks do same thing when you turn it correct? also i had p1345 code on my blazer 4.3...so does this mean distributor gear popped and moved due to it being worn??? I started running bad and then got real bad and check engine light came on..only code is p1345... thax
Also yes, the distributor gear moght have pooped on you if you have not replaced the distributor or have mre te distributor. Sorry for being short. Was out of the house at tje time.
i hear you..it would be a good idea to seal those holes once you tighten down distributor where you want it to prevent crap or water from getting in there...
i bought the truck used with 198 k on it and the distrib was loose and bouncing before i tightened it down,so i think that messed up gear..it run pretty good for a few days but now it wont start...i will. see if the timing marks line up...i am pretty sure they wont and my gear is crapped out...thanks
Did a tuneup on a 99 Escalade. And came up with this code did not have a $2,000 scanner or a lab scope I used a OBD2 scanner and watch the timing on the scanner I got it as close as I could and locked it down it worked great no codes no light No errors. Knowledge is power
Not all odb2 scanners are created equal. Mine only shows timing adavance while running and at that point the computer takes over and tries to correct the timing.
If I understood what he meant by the spark this dude is LEGIT!! The tricks of the trade are priceless! Much appreciated Bro
Okay guys reaching out for another issue with my Tahoe.... 🤦🏾♂️ Has anybody found that a specific part of the power steering system will leak? I'm having trouble finding what could be the issue or would you recommend changing the power steering pump...
Probably THE most helpful and sensible repair tips I've ever seen on here. Thanks!
to be fair I saw someone else do it, but thanks!!!
Little advice for the experts. If it works then its not stupid. Everyone has to go through the process of learning. I could never find a straight answer. Lined up tdc on the number 8 and all that jazz. This is what worked for me and I keep the holy cap in my tool box. Works everytime for me. The real douche are the know it alls that try to belittle efforts. Like they never had to learn anything. They were simply born walking and have a vast knowledge of the vortec. You gotta learn to ealk before you run. So if Im a douche for sharing a short cut that I learned also on youtube then so be it. Im a douche, but Im a douche with no check engine light.
Still having issues getting this adjusted right, you're saying cylinder 8 but Chilton's manual tells me to be top dead center and pointed at cylinder 1. It started up when I replace the distributor just keep getting 1345 code, and the most recent time I adjusted it after filling the holes and trying to look at the ark across the distributor I got a huge misfires now. Any suggestions please 😁
@@martycarroll3192 When looking at the spark through the hole that is drill at the number 5 terminal you and see the spark reach the number 5 clearly. Slowly rotate the distributor until the spark is perpendicular. If the distributor does not move enough to align them then you are off one tooth on your cam.
@@aggrobob79 so if I need to move it am I loosing that bolt and picking the distributor up turning it clockwise once and sending it back in or do I move it counterclockwise? I'm going to try to take a video and upload it so people see what I'm asking. You've been more help than the shop I've taken it to and left it for a few days they told me nothing was wrong with it and I needed a new distributor... 🤣 I took it to scan it at auto parts store and had 5 codes. It's been hard to find an honest shop for sure
@@martycarroll3192 it will depend what side of the terminal the spark is coming from. I have a Tahoe current that runs and drives fine but it's one tooth off. I can see the spark coming from the left of the terminal meaning I have to move one tooth clockwise.
@@aggrobob79 gotcha! Think that makes sense if I'm visualizing what you're saying right. It's raining now so I can't go out there and seebut I'll definitely keep you posted thank you for all your help
I watched this then did a face palm. Makes sense, going to try this. Sure a lot faster than lining stuff up by eyeball.( #1 piston up to top on compression , Line up timing mark on damper. Pull cap and Mark where #1 is exactly on on distributor body , rotate dist. till mark lines up with rotor.) That's the old way to do it.
I was do that for other engines but these being computer controlled makes that hard to do.
BeckBuilt Thank you for a good video; I had also seen the one on the aircraft mechanic who came up with this idea of drilling holes in the distributor cap. Probably he was not the first. But I saw it first there. I have a Blazer with a 4.3 engine, plastic distributor. I broke one of the ears off that hold the cap on. Purchased new aluminum distributor and installed from information that I had learned on You tube. Also the gear on old distributor was very worn. I also might add that I had replaced the roller timing chain to an upgraded chain. I did a lot of research on how to relearn the cam and crank. Never found what I wanted which was the face of a scanner and the actual adjustment bringing the adjustment into the + or - of 0. The 4.3 has a hold down bracket that does not allow you to rotate the distributor. I drilled mine out a little larger which allowed some adjustment. On pushing the engine hard it would throw a code for random misfire. Purchase techron additive and added to fuel tank to clean injectors. It did seem to help. If you read forums; this engine likes AC Delco products, purchase ac cap and rotor, and broke the ear of the plastic distributor. Now the new aluminum distributor, dropped it in the same place as the old and did not get the P1345 but shift points were not right on transmission. Took it to shop and paid the price to have it scanned. On the way home traveling uphill it threw a code for #4 cylinder misfire. Called the shop and he said he would work with me. Explored the misfire and found that the plug was arcing down the side and shorting it out. Smelled gas on the plug, so injector was working, removed wire and was good. New plug and misfire is gone. Still not good on hills and shifting. Did not have this problem of shifting with old distributor. So I question my scan relearn! I had drilled out a cap earlier but could not find it. Drilled a new one but only one big hole near back by firewall. When you are laying on top of the engine that was good enough. (" When you are fine tuning you rotate the distributor until the spark jumps directly across to the electrode.") I got that quote from you. Mine is not doing that. There are some interesting articles about rotor phasing (MSD 8421 Distributor Rotor) Their site shows distributor cap being drilled and changing the spark pattern as rotor is adjusted. I have purchased this from amazon and do not have it yet. I did not drill out the hold down bracket on this distributor. The hole in the manifold is larger than the distributor base and I was concerned that it might wear the distributor gear. Old distributor slopped around this hole a lot and maybe caused the wear on the gear.
So should be able to fine tune it with the rotor.
I have enjoyed reading the comments and we can learn from them. Thanks again for a good video and explanation.
You are awesome my friend .that's going to help me out so much ony 7.4 vortec.i kept wondering how am I going to time this stupid thing .now I know .thank you very much.
I learned this method from another video and it was priceless. I had this code for years and never worried about it until it started causing the caps to fail early with heavy deposits on the contact points. Thats when I got on the tube and watched a video like this and solved it. Thanks for this video!
this is how the old timers would do stuff- just excellent.. love the haters - they obviously dont really understand/get "it". Book boys at best they are...
Thank you...I had seen a couple videos of people doing that but they didn't say how the spark should be. My truck is fixed now.
That makes me feel pretty good that my vids helped someone out. You're welcome!!!!
Question. You turned the distributor? I thought it had a stationary hold down. Which direction? What if you cleared code, and tried turning it a little at a time until code stays off? Spare the cap.
Someone should make vortec dist caps with clear plexiglass windows.
Does that scan code also do crank/cam relearn ??
How did u time the spark gaps??
I got this code on my 99 tahoe. Just bought it and decided id give it a tune up, plugs wires and what not and everything noticed the previous owner had replaced the distributor, did it correctly but didnt tighten the darn thing down properly.
When you were adjusting the distributor one tooth at a time, did you have the truck running or shut it off then adjust it?
I didn't adjust one tooth at a time. When the truck was off I stabbed the distributor to the number 8 cylinder. In older 350s you line up on the number one cylinder. When you are fine tuning you rotate the distributor until the spark jumps directly across to the electrode.
Awesome video! 👍 Could I just turn the distributer without holes until I find the sweet spot? Because I'm working on this code today and po102. Thanks!
I do that as well in a pinch! Good luck!
Wow
So... you keep this cap
Or new is the cuestion
I keep the cap with holes now as a tool and replaced it with a new one. I've used the holy cap on about 6 different trucks now.
Why the music?
Thanks tom petty!
So how do you adjust it ? 🤔did not see how he did it
At the base of the distributor is a 1/2 inch bolt hold a v-shape plate against the distributor. Loosen that bolt and the distributor will rotate in place.
Need mechanic like this man here in Martinsville VA.Bunch of ripoff shit here to deal with.
Your scanner should show degrees of advancement. Why not just start the engine and rotate the distbutor cap and it should change on the scanner.
So your taking the distributor out and moving it 1 tooth at a time
No, just rotating it. You start off linimg up tdc in the number 8 cylinder if you can. There its close enough to get the timing down with this cheat.
That's ok if your distributor is adjustable , some are not
Never seen a fixed distributor on a vortec. I have on a 4.0 jeep straight 6 but never a vortec.
You're probably thinking of coil packs, they don't use distributors.
i have a early dis. hold down on my 97 vortec 5.7, can rotate dis.you can get them on e bay
why would you have to drill 5 holes...why not just 2? all the sparks do same thing when you turn it correct? also i had p1345 code on my blazer 4.3...so does this mean distributor gear popped and moved due to it being worn??? I started running bad and then got real bad and check engine light came on..only code is p1345... thax
Eh, at the time I was sure what angle i would be a BBM le to see the spark. Have a good one.
Also yes, the distributor gear moght have pooped on you if you have not replaced the distributor or have mre te distributor. Sorry for being short. Was out of the house at tje time.
i hear you..it would be a good idea to seal those holes once you tighten down distributor where you want it to prevent crap or water from getting in there...
i bought the truck used with 198 k on it and the distrib was loose and bouncing before i tightened it down,so i think that messed up gear..it run pretty good for a few days but now it wont start...i will. see if the timing marks line up...i am pretty sure they wont and my gear is crapped out...thanks
5 holes give better view for him to show you with his camera
dude, TDC with distributor rotor pointing at 8. Then relearn the cam/crank.
Really. You didn't show us how to set it.