I'm late to the comment section, but just wanted to say if you mix Liquitex inks with their matte gel medium, you get a hobby paint-like consistency and sheen, but with a generally much more saturated color. It's a good place for ink-curious hobbyists to start with brush-on ink. Tip: always do a light spray varnish before getting inked surfaces wet or mixing with other product types. Sometimes it's okay, but the 1 time in 20 its not it'll be something you love that gets messed up.
Thank you for showing your "mistakes" as well. I get frustrated when I make mistakes, so it helps to know that the experts also make the same mistakes. Great video!
I usually thin my liquitex inks with a bit of matt varnish to knock back the gloss, makes the layer tougher and speeds up the dry time a touch too. Use gloss varnish sometimes too, like over metallics.
Byron, long time since I visited the shop! I've been using ink in artist medium for a while, the density of colour is unbelievable and with medium you can brush paint.
Spot on! It definitely feels pretty unique when you get it right. I am keen to experiment further and use it to improve different aspects of my painting😊
I've done some experimenting with Liquitex and Daler-Rowney FW inks recently and I find they're generally pretty sensitive to mixing stuff in. For me they tend to get too runny if I dilute with any more than 1:1 airbrush medium, they work oddly with Liquitex slo-dri and flow aid. I wouldn't try mixing mat medium or isopropanol in on a piece i cared about, but it might be interesting to see the results. After the weird behavior with other additives though, I've just waited for the ink gradients to be completely cured, then go over lightly with a mat varnish and continue painting. This protects the ink and cuts out the sheen, giving me a good place to go back to if i make a mistake and wipe it before it's fully cured.
As a PSA though [sorry if it already got mentioned], contrast paints will rip the ink straight off, so if you like to glaze/wash with contrast, varnish first. Have you considered a tank on your compressor for recording video?
I've had some luck using the white ink for my zenithol highlights and covering with contrast. It's a delicate game for sure but I can always fix any lift during my final highlights. You can actually use the effect to your advantage. I made some cool bases for my Gloomhaven minis using a heavy contrast over white ink/black prime. It can give you a cool tie-dye/marble look.
@@danielniquet5366 Oddly enough, White is the one I've had the most hassle with personally, another UA-camr says it's an issue with inks generally rather than while specifically as I had wondered. Awesome that you've found a way to make thi property work for you though :) I just thought more generally people might want to be aware so they didn't accidentally mess up. I've found that a quick blast of matt varnish through the airbrush both protects the ink and reduces the shine.
Is this not a result of them needing more drying time or did they always need sealing? Great information, thanks for the help😊A lot of people are mentioning the white, I haven't tried it out yet but would love to.
@@ArtisOpus I don't think it's a drying time issue, though ofc it could be a factor for some. I find white ink is amazing for pre-highlight/zenithal as it has none of the 'chalk' you can get from most white paints.
In my experience you can thin down the inks (also just with water) for the airbrush way further than you would with normal acrylics. I've gone to a 1:5 ratio of ink:water. This greatly reduces the drying time, and lessens the speckling you get from airbrushing it. When you use the airbrush to continuously spray air, and add thin layers of paint when the previous layer is dry, you can get awesome control over your filters and transitions (plus you don't need to use the hairdryer!). For the glossy effect, that's sometimes an unfortunate property. But it's easily fixed by airbrushing some matte varnish, or satin if that's the preferred finish, over top.
I came to make a similar statement. Thinner coats, like a filter are a fun way to punch up color and blend harsh transitions. I take inspiration from trent denison or vincey V. Sketch in highlights and shadows, then blend with ink filters. This also is fun to do with metals. Thin inks over metals leaves the metal shine, but tents hue from silver to the ink color. Also, mixing inks and metal color *french kiss*
@@ArtisOpus Just a 'cheap' as-186s compressor and brush combo off amazon to dip my toes. Already loving it so looking at getting a proper airbrush as my present to myself for my 30th birthday. Cause god knows I won't be able to do the trip to ireland me and a few mates had planned as a joint 30th birthday holiday.
Would love to see you use the inks on black armor and drybrush some bright edge highlights. use the ink over the edge highlights to see you can make a really sinister or other worldly glow to the armor!
I'm about to resin print a 1/6 scale wrath of khan diarama of kirk and spock.i purchased liquidex maroon ink for the uniforms.looking at your video/tutorial I might lower the air pressure to 15 psi or lower.you are definitely correct how the ink shoots out the airbrush.i love how the wings came out.thanks for the video.
Also lots of other videos about making your own Citadel contrast paints from artist acrylic inks. Little bit if ink, plenty of matte medium, and a couple drops of flow improver.
I used to do this myself in the past but just prefer the quality of the readily available stuff on the market, maybe I should give it another go though.
I love using inks. I usehe vivid lime in the recesses of necrons and it's been brilliant, also used pthalocyanine green (blue shade) and deep violet to break up the metal colours on the body of them before drybrushing, it made a nice faux colour shift effect on them
Great video again Byron! I’m a huge fan of liquitex inks been using them a couple of years now. Their reds and yellows are just the best, so vibrant compared to standard acrylic paints.
Thanks so much, dude! I am honestly falling in love with all of them, apparently even the ones that aren't bright are nice, I wouldn't know though... because I only picked the ones that made my eyes bleed😅😅
@@ArtisOpus haha definitely a good plan going for their brights, they are amazing! Their muted colours are lovely too, sap green is an amazing colour for dark angels and Prussian blue hue for librarians :) also if you wanted to take a look at the pro acryl transparents, can’t recommend them enough and cover some of the gaps in the liquitex line :) sorry for the essay! Haha
Thanks for the video, was thinking of using them on some Drukhari models. Have something like a black base with maybe a dull aluminium zenithal highlight then build up with some yellow/green ink. I was looking at some old Michael Moorcock books of his Elric series where that armour effect was used in some illustrations. Some deep purple as well would look cool.
Make sure to put down some really strong contrast underneath with those metallics and it should work perfectly. Great art reference! Those covers were so classic😍
Great video as always! Would love to see you painting a Crimson Fist space marine, seeing how you go about getting a really good looking dark rich blue would be awesome!
I'm going to have to get some of those greens for my Necron army that I've just finished collecting. I think that would look better on the Necron's than the range of paints produced by GW.
Which yellow are you using? (I didn't see it in the video, may have missed it tho) Thinking the color combo would be good for an Ork or Salamander scheme
My experience, is: 1. Shake well and ensure cap is on 2. Add matt medium to reduce the shine 3. Use as a filter thinly 4. Varnish after as I find they rub off easily, especially when when add water based paints 5. That green is amazing for OSL.
Hello , I am new in airbrushpainting and want to use acrylic inks Whats the dosage ink and medium for airbrush ? Do we need medium and thinner for airbrush or just one of them. Greetings Viper
Great video on inks. Marco fisoni got me into them. I commented on one of his videos about the shine, and he suggested matte varnish. It seems to work better than matte medium for me. But maybe that’s just placebo. Tip number two, I often kind of glob inks on, and then wipe them away with a cotton swab or clean brush. It’s sort of inspired by reductive technique by zakcastagoon.
For now, I think a really efficient way to do OSL would be to lightly drybrush white and then glaze over the top, followed by a little bright drybrushing e.g. orange next to the light source😊
I've heard that matte varnish in with the ink will kill the gloss right away, as well as help to strengthen it for follow up layers (and I've heard quicken the drying time) but have not used it as such myself - I've only used white Liquitex as a zenithal highlight, and the inks in general to increase paint vibrancy.
Omg, that’s what happened to me over the weekend and I had no idea why! I left the airbrush pointing down in the pot holder to go and do something and came back to a huge mess!!
I was not too afraid of the result. The artist paint ranges, are normally all of a higher quality than all the modelism paint ranges, just look at the fact that the manufacturers of this type of paint advertise for example a UV resistance quality, which no modelism range advertises, and the pigment/medium composition of the modelism paints is as secret as the Coke recipe, whereas most of the artist paint pots advertise it on the bottle. I saw some miniatures with white ink of this brand, the nuance towards the white was very beautiful and very soft.
Interesting, I have to use any properly, we have plans to test molotow soon, which is kind of close with some of their products. Just waiting on supply to be secured.
Wash the area with lahmian medium after your done. Or matte varnish it. I've mixed matte medium in to thin the ink as well but I don't always want to thin it
Just did a 1/6 scale resin print of kirk from star trek and used the maroon liquid ink and you werent kidding lol this will take multiple coats it will run really quick.im glad i tested it first.looks good but need more coats.i like the ink because its so thin and brings out all the details on the fabric
Always fun to watch these. If I can ask a stupid question? Have you done a video on pre-shading? I see lots of people talk about it, just kinda unsure what to do.
I find it interesting that you shade with kind of...slightly off from opposite colors. I never considered purple and green as opposite until I saw you do it all the time...always thought more purple with yellow. I tend to paint in a more traditional way of darker colors for shade and lighter colors for highlights but I definitely like what you do with your colors and I want to try out using those opposites as shades. Might give it a shot on my next figure.
It also depends on what kind of green you are trying to complement. Lime green is a green with a yellow shift, so you compliment that with the red that has a purple/violet shift, which is, of course, a magenta.
@Pulat gave a piece of very useful information, thanks! Colour theory unlocks a lot of surprising combinations 😊 Thanks for watching and supporting, guys 🤗
Hello , I am new in airbrushpainting and want to use acrylic inks Whats the dosage ink and medium for airbrush ? Do we need medium and thinner for airbrush or just one of them. Greetings Viper
I'd be interested to see what a wash of orange ink looked like over a piece of pitted armor painted in a dull metallic looked like, maybe thinned with some matt medium or hit up afterwards with some matt or ultra matt varnish.
@@ArtisOpus I have purchased some myself, dusted off my old airbrush... mainly after getting into 3D printing. So thanks very much for this demo my friend. Got my compressor on its way.
Water is enough if it is water-based acrylic ink. When you finish painting always use a little bit of neutral soap too, it will lengthen the life of your brushes ;)
I just found your channel. I kick started one set of your brushes. I am a beginner, I noticed you have a set of 15 brushes. Is it appropriate for a beginner? Do you have stuff on learning to use an airbrush?
Hey dude, a set of 15 brushes? Do you mean the navigator bundle (of 3 sets)? It's everything a beginner could want! (+ maybe a size 3 S :)) We do, a beginner's series with a couple of episodes, search 'Airbrush' in our channel. Please reply via another comment, YT is awful for notifications! Apologies for the delay, thanks for supporting us early days on KS!
@@ArtisOpus I took a risk and ordered it, but as a teacher this was pricey; now I learned you are backlogged and I may not get it for quite some time.. :(. I have a patriot 105. I could not afford your vortex mixer…..
What size nozzle and what PSI are you spraying with? You're getting a lot more specking than I do with inks.. I'm generally using a .3mm and 15-20 PSI. I have a lot more problems with them in my .5mm nozzle airbrush. I rarely thin them, but finding the sweet spot on the trigger is a lot of practice so you don't swamp what you are painting. Thinning will knock the pigment level down some if you are looking for something less intense. It's definitely all about multiple thin layers though.
Hello, we are a good number of French people who don't really speak English. Someone from your staff told me that we would then have your videos subtitled in French. can you tell me where it is? because we love your videos! is that will be great in addition to really understand. thank you in advance
I'll definitely cover this at some point in the future. It's all about thinning your paints and practice, check out Marco NJM for some great tutorials on it.😊
Interesting video Byron, thanks for that, just bought some inks as well so time to experiment for sure. How would you say they compare to using contrast paints in a similar manner as filters? Also, what do you use for pre-shading, I'm struggling to find a good white for that at the moment and your pre-shaded curved blades look really clean. Thanks
They're very comparable. I'd say they're like the stronger contrast paints, they're very potent. Try bold titanium white from Monument for pre-shading, it's really very special😊
I bought some Liquitex inks recently and used them straight from the pot in the airbrush...have you tried them undiluted? How much thinner did you use anyway? And at what pressure (bar/psi) did you spray?
At least 50/50 dilution. My pressure was quite high, about 25 but lower would be better. There's definitely potential undiluted but they're very very strong.😊
Hey dude, it's just monument Ivory thought the airbrush, done in the same style as the inks around 3minutes in to the video! You can stipple this though, check out our recent power-weapon tutorials for an idea on how to drybrush blends :)
I would like to ser these inks on ork skin, the lime green one could be soo cool on orks. Also wanna know How would you use the ink on orks for example, first base coat of black and zenital white and then green ink? Or maybe use the magenta one for shades from bellow?
You can do both. I've actually painted quite a lot like that in the past just now with these specific products. Orks will be a great place to try it out🤩
Loved the vid again Byron. I have yet to more away from GW. Not sure why just not tried anything else yet but I am really interested in trying Vallejo paints, for me I think these are too bright but still a great video nonetheless. Keep up the great work. Your dedication and interesting videos are much appreciated!
awesome video mate, thank you! Makes me want to explore the that technique/transition on spikey things, like Aeldari/Drukhari Jet bikes! And I only just started playing Chaos, lol. >.
They're definitely comparable. I've not played with them enough to give a proper comparison but they do feel like they're maybe a little more forgiving whilst still being super potent.😊
@@ThomasGallinari The Liquitex ones that I've used (10 or so) are somewhere between matt and satin (more matt). What I will say is that Liquitex is very strong inks, while not being overpowering in colour. If that makes sense. (-: Don't want to link to others in here, but a quick yt search for "liquitex ink" will give you a lot of mini painters who use them.
Liquitex like scale 75 all have a slight varied finish and set time. I find the liquitex take a bit longer to dry and 'cure' enough to be able to handle normal brushing. If you plan to use a contrast over a a zenithal I just using the contrast in an airbrush or toss a light varnish over the ink.
Hey John, I was using quite high pressure here to avoid getting sputterings😊I think a lower pressure would be better, I am just a little out of practice with my airbrush.
Any tips? Let us know! Liquitex can be found here, or fairly commonly at local art-dealers: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-washes-etc/liquitex?d=10051 The gorgeous airbrush used in this video is one of the 2 Cult of Paint Airbrushes: store.artis-opus.com/collections/airbrushes
I’m quite new to airbrushing and have sprayed the red ink from FW and the white liquitex ink. Both came out quite glossy and almost ‘enamely’, is this normal or did I not shake the bottle enough....or spray it from a wrong distance? Either way, it look nowhere near as crisp and clean as pro you tubers when they spray it. I understand a lot of that is to do with practice but is there any special prep you need to do before spraying inks? Worth noting, I didn’t thin down my inks....
It's one of the few downsides of these products, there's definitely something to be aware of. A good matte varnish is your friend here, it will work wonders. Thining your inks is necessary even if only a little and will make a difference to the finish😊
Solid work as always. Out of interest, how would these go with some series D action? I’ve seen white ink out of a airbrush used as a great zenithal but wondering if you could get the same outcome without the airbrush but still using the ink
Taking my none 40k fantasy angle, how about using these inks as highlight for things that are silk cloth or the like. Be it a dress or hose on a noble or maybe on a war banner or flag. Maybe even Samurai inspired Laquered Armour. Use the inherent shine to represent materials that would reflect light.
Not a bad idea, dude! I'd need the practice to make sure that I can do it predictably as you're trying to take science with anything like that and make it into an art, which is generally tricky!
Thanks so much, buddy! To be honest, my equipment is quite basic - I use my personal phone for recording (Samsung S10 Plus), a microphone and some lightning 😊 If you got any more questions please let me know.
No way! That's awesome. A friend got me onto your videos and I've been sharing them. It's criminal you don't have more subs yet. Keep up the amazing work. Treating myself to the Full drybrush set for my 30th next month after watching your work 😁
I preshaded a model with white Liquitex ink but unfortunately found that glaze made with Citadel Lahmian Medium dissolves the dried ink. It was a huge mess!
Inks tend toward satin finishes, particularly if several stages of them are used! They are super strong though, so just a drop can be thinned lots, and this pulls them right back :)
Great video! I love watching your process! My only criticism here is I wish you timelapsed a bit less on the axe. I was very interested in seeing how you did power weapons that weren't straight-edged swords and the timelapse made it hard to understand the process there. Loved it overall!
Cheers, dude! I don't have a fixed method and it took me ages and I definitely didn't do it correctly. If I'm gonna demonstrate something for the camera I always try and make sure it's gonna be easy to follow. you wouldn't have been able to take any good info away from me experimenting😅I'd definitely do it for a future video though😊
Nope, they're not formulated with a thick body medium, I'm using them as glazes here, not washes (which pool in recesses, giving variation). They're also damn-strong, which most contrasts weren't... until the last wave at least
Ah yes Byron's natural language seeps into the channel all it took was some overspill. ;). I'd love to see what these inks can do to create glowing effects. For something different how about some kind of psychic/magic glow? as opposed to something like a plasma coil. Look forward to seeing how the inks work using brushes too!
I'm definitely going to experiment with this myself. It seems that it'd potentially be easier from the brush than from the airbrush as the airbrush flattens out glazing a little. Thanks for the awesome suggestion as always🤩🤩
I painted my entire army of Blood Angels with inks over greyscale light values. When I did, I had three test models with different varnishes. Matt Varnish works for sure. Maybe not quite as much as it does over acrylic paint. However, it is noticeable.
Not sure these are for me to be honest, but if you want to try out some new stuff why not take a look at the Ultimate Modelling Products washes? They're pretty unique in that they're a heavy, clay based pigment so you do have to keep shaking them up, and they tend to dry lighter than they look fresh from the bottle, but you can re-activate them with water and they're about the only acrylic washes around that can make really convincing dust effects or dirt streaks
My number one tip with inks are, make sure that the cap is on before you shake them, learned that the hard way
Same. Yellow everywhere.
Oh man, been there... once... never again... hopefully!
I did that with a pot of wyldwood contrast paint recently 😂 brown all over the shop
Oof.
So much yes.
I'm late to the comment section, but just wanted to say if you mix Liquitex inks with their matte gel medium, you get a hobby paint-like consistency and sheen, but with a generally much more saturated color. It's a good place for ink-curious hobbyists to start with brush-on ink.
Tip: always do a light spray varnish before getting inked surfaces wet or mixing with other product types. Sometimes it's okay, but the 1 time in 20 its not it'll be something you love that gets messed up.
Thank you for showing your "mistakes" as well. I get frustrated when I make mistakes, so it helps to know that the experts also make the same mistakes. Great video!
Thanks, dude! You have no idea just how much swearing is going on behind the scenes🤭🤭
@@ArtisOpus Probably not as much as mine! Lol! Really appreciate your tutorials and videos!
I usually thin my liquitex inks with a bit of matt varnish to knock back the gloss, makes the layer tougher and speeds up the dry time a touch too. Use gloss varnish sometimes too, like over metallics.
Many people have mentioned this, will definitely be trying it out next time. Thanks🤩
Those blades are sick! really cool display of those bright colors. thanks for sharing how these paints come out.
Glad you like them! Thank you for watching😊
Byron, long time since I visited the shop! I've been using ink in artist medium for a while, the density of colour is unbelievable and with medium you can brush paint.
Spot on! It definitely feels pretty unique when you get it right. I am keen to experiment further and use it to improve different aspects of my painting😊
Thank you for the video. I bought these after a coaching and like the vibrant colours. Dry brushing is a blast with these.
I am finding them superb for painting fine details and edge highlighting and they really pop
Love the live experimentation and process work you go through. They look excellent!
Thanks so much! Glad you think so! 😊
I've done some experimenting with Liquitex and Daler-Rowney FW inks recently and I find they're generally pretty sensitive to mixing stuff in. For me they tend to get too runny if I dilute with any more than 1:1 airbrush medium, they work oddly with Liquitex slo-dri and flow aid. I wouldn't try mixing mat medium or isopropanol in on a piece i cared about, but it might be interesting to see the results. After the weird behavior with other additives though, I've just waited for the ink gradients to be completely cured, then go over lightly with a mat varnish and continue painting. This protects the ink and cuts out the sheen, giving me a good place to go back to if i make a mistake and wipe it before it's fully cured.
Thanks so much for the tips, lots of people mentioned the same thing so I'd definitely give it a try!😊
I love using inks in the airbrush. They are already thin and make spraying and clean up easy. Mixing colors with inks can be tricky though.
Absolutely, it's definitely something where practice is required.😊
As a PSA though [sorry if it already got mentioned], contrast paints will rip the ink straight off, so if you like to glaze/wash with contrast, varnish first.
Have you considered a tank on your compressor for recording video?
I've had some luck using the white ink for my zenithol highlights and covering with contrast. It's a delicate game for sure but I can always fix any lift during my final highlights. You can actually use the effect to your advantage. I made some cool bases for my Gloomhaven minis using a heavy contrast over white ink/black prime. It can give you a cool tie-dye/marble look.
@@danielniquet5366 Oddly enough, White is the one I've had the most hassle with personally, another UA-camr says it's an issue with inks generally rather than while specifically as I had wondered.
Awesome that you've found a way to make thi property work for you though :)
I just thought more generally people might want to be aware so they didn't accidentally mess up. I've found that a quick blast of matt varnish through the airbrush both protects the ink and reduces the shine.
Is this not a result of them needing more drying time or did they always need sealing? Great information, thanks for the help😊A lot of people are mentioning the white, I haven't tried it out yet but would love to.
@@ArtisOpus I don't think it's a drying time issue, though ofc it could be a factor for some.
I find white ink is amazing for pre-highlight/zenithal as it has none of the 'chalk' you can get from most white paints.
In my experience you can thin down the inks (also just with water) for the airbrush way further than you would with normal acrylics. I've gone to a 1:5 ratio of ink:water. This greatly reduces the drying time, and lessens the speckling you get from airbrushing it. When you use the airbrush to continuously spray air, and add thin layers of paint when the previous layer is dry, you can get awesome control over your filters and transitions (plus you don't need to use the hairdryer!).
For the glossy effect, that's sometimes an unfortunate property. But it's easily fixed by airbrushing some matte varnish, or satin if that's the preferred finish, over top.
Awesome tips, thanks so much buddy! 😊
I came to make a similar statement. Thinner coats, like a filter are a fun way to punch up color and blend harsh transitions. I take inspiration from trent denison or vincey V. Sketch in highlights and shadows, then blend with ink filters.
This also is fun to do with metals. Thin inks over metals leaves the metal shine, but tents hue from silver to the ink color. Also, mixing inks and metal color *french kiss*
Well I finally did it thanks to this. Bought myself and airbrush.
Amazing, what did you go for dude? :)
@@ArtisOpus Just a 'cheap' as-186s compressor and brush combo off amazon to dip my toes. Already loving it so looking at getting a proper airbrush as my present to myself for my 30th birthday. Cause god knows I won't be able to do the trip to ireland me and a few mates had planned as a joint 30th birthday holiday.
Would love to see you use the inks on black armor and drybrush some bright edge highlights. use the ink over the edge highlights to see you can make a really sinister or other worldly glow to the armor!
This is a great idea! I am surprised that I haven't thought of this method before. Thanks so much!😊
This could not have come at a better time, I've just bought some liquitex inks, done some base coating and loved using them
They're lots of fun to use🤩 Let us know how it goes for you!
I'm about to resin print a 1/6 scale wrath of khan diarama of kirk and spock.i purchased liquidex maroon ink for the uniforms.looking at your video/tutorial I might lower the air pressure to 15 psi or lower.you are definitely correct how the ink shoots out the airbrush.i love how the wings came out.thanks for the video.
Love the color contrast, the pop great.
Glad you think so, thanks🤩
Also lots of other videos about making your own Citadel contrast paints from artist acrylic inks. Little bit if ink, plenty of matte medium, and a couple drops of flow improver.
I used to do this myself in the past but just prefer the quality of the readily available stuff on the market, maybe I should give it another go though.
That yellow and green ink =
They're so badass! Just work exactly as you'd hope :)
I love using inks. I usehe vivid lime in the recesses of necrons and it's been brilliant, also used pthalocyanine green (blue shade) and deep violet to break up the metal colours on the body of them before drybrushing, it made a nice faux colour shift effect on them
Interesting, I really like the applications and I'm excited about experimenting 🤩Thanks!
Great video again Byron! I’m a huge fan of liquitex inks been using them a couple of years now. Their reds and yellows are just the best, so vibrant compared to standard acrylic paints.
Thanks so much, dude! I am honestly falling in love with all of them, apparently even the ones that aren't bright are nice, I wouldn't know though... because I only picked the ones that made my eyes bleed😅😅
@@ArtisOpus haha definitely a good plan going for their brights, they are amazing! Their muted colours are lovely too, sap green is an amazing colour for dark angels and Prussian blue hue for librarians :) also if you wanted to take a look at the pro acryl transparents, can’t recommend them enough and cover some of the gaps in the liquitex line :) sorry for the essay! Haha
Thanks for the video, was thinking of using them on some Drukhari models. Have something like a black base with maybe a dull aluminium zenithal highlight then build up with some yellow/green ink. I was looking at some old Michael Moorcock books of his Elric series where that armour effect was used in some illustrations. Some deep purple as well would look cool.
Make sure to put down some really strong contrast underneath with those metallics and it should work perfectly. Great art reference! Those covers were so classic😍
Great video as always! Would love to see you painting a Crimson Fist space marine, seeing how you go about getting a really good looking dark rich blue would be awesome!
I think I can give this a good go. I've only recently realised that they're not just an Ultramarine with a red hand 😅
I'm going to have to get some of those greens for my Necron army that I've just finished collecting. I think that would look better on the Necron's than the range of paints produced by GW.
I'd have to agree, I was super impressed🤩
Which yellow are you using? (I didn't see it in the video, may have missed it tho)
Thinking the color combo would be good for an Ork or Salamander scheme
Hey dude, it's the Cadmium Yellow Light from liquitex :)
Light chroma yellow iirc, my bad, pointing the wrong way!
My experience, is:
1. Shake well and ensure cap is on
2. Add matt medium to reduce the shine
3. Use as a filter thinly
4. Varnish after as I find they rub off easily, especially when when add water based paints
5. That green is amazing for OSL.
Cheers, dude! All great points, I am definitely going to develop a similar list myself once I'm more experienced with them😊👨🎨
Hello ,
I am new in airbrushpainting and want to use acrylic inks
Whats the dosage ink and medium for airbrush ?
Do we need medium and thinner for airbrush or just one of them.
Greetings Viper
I love airbrushing those liquitex inks!
So much fun!🤩
I am definitely enjoying your videos..thank you!
I'm so glad and you're most welcome😊 Thanks for watching!
Great video on inks. Marco fisoni got me into them. I commented on one of his videos about the shine, and he suggested matte varnish. It seems to work better than matte medium for me. But maybe that’s just placebo.
Tip number two, I often kind of glob inks on, and then wipe them away with a cotton swab or clean brush. It’s sort of inspired by reductive technique by zakcastagoon.
Great tipes, dude, I love both of their content🤩🤩
Beautiful work, I've recently been using some inks to try and improve some plasma osl effects, would be really cool to see how you'd approach this.
For now, I think a really efficient way to do OSL would be to lightly drybrush white and then glaze over the top, followed by a little bright drybrushing e.g. orange next to the light source😊
I've heard that matte varnish in with the ink will kill the gloss right away, as well as help to strengthen it for follow up layers (and I've heard quicken the drying time) but have not used it as such myself - I've only used white Liquitex as a zenithal highlight, and the inks in general to increase paint vibrancy.
A couple of people mentioned this. It's a really interesting idea! I'll be definitely trying it out🤩
Really enjoying your videos. Thank you.
Glad you like them! My pleasure😊🤗
8:47
A word of advice: I find inks can sometimes be thin enough to flow down through the needle and nozzle even without pulling back the trigger.
Interesting, I've never had an issue with this but will watch out😊Thanks!
Omg, that’s what happened to me over the weekend and I had no idea why! I left the airbrush pointing down in the pot holder to go and do something and came back to a huge mess!!
I was not too afraid of the result. The artist paint ranges, are normally all of a higher quality than all the modelism paint ranges, just look at the fact that the manufacturers of this type of paint advertise for example a UV resistance quality, which no modelism range advertises, and the pigment/medium composition of the modelism paints is as secret as the Coke recipe, whereas most of the artist paint pots advertise it on the bottle.
I saw some miniatures with white ink of this brand, the nuance towards the white was very beautiful and very soft.
I am really excited to try out the white too🤩A lot of people have mentioned it.
Thanks for the comment, dude😊
Just discovered your channel..looking forward to seeing you work with metallic inks..
Interesting, I have to use any properly, we have plans to test molotow soon, which is kind of close with some of their products. Just waiting on supply to be secured.
Wash the area with lahmian medium after your done. Or matte varnish it. I've mixed matte medium in to thin the ink as well but I don't always want to thin it
All good tips👍
Spay so many dot with my airbrush, not sure if the air pressure is too high?
Could have been, or it's not been cleaned properly by a bad owner :|
@@ArtisOpus I clean again and the issue is still here, they are too watery... do you use thinner? Thanks
Nice to see you experiment with art store ranges - pretty sure there is a lot there for minis but we just don't venture too far out of our LGS's
Absolutely! Ironically this is also the same for historical techniques often, even though they're available in LGS😊
Would like to see how you would use these for glazing, recess shading. Trying to understand if they would help improve my painting.
That's very similar to the techniques we use in this video, they'd be perfect for it😊
I like to use inks a lot but I definitely matt varnish afterwards to seal it.
You're not the first to suggest this, I'll be definitely doing it in the future. Thanks so much!😊
So doing a sealer between layers might keep the ink from reactivity of the previous layer. The matte finish would help with the shine.
Multiple people have said this, it makes absolute sense. I'll be definitely using it in the future, thank🤩
I can second watching Marco Frisoni for techniques on using inks
Marco is amazing, love his videos🤩🤩
I have a few of them and I LOVE those inks
Just did a 1/6 scale resin print of kirk from star trek and used the maroon liquid ink and you werent kidding lol this will take multiple coats it will run really quick.im glad i tested it first.looks good but need more coats.i like the ink because its so thin and brings out all the details on the fabric
Always fun to watch these. If I can ask a stupid question? Have you done a video on pre-shading? I see lots of people talk about it, just kinda unsure what to do.
Fantastic point! We've not done a specific video but it'll absolutely be worth it. Hopefully, you'll see this in the near future😊Thank you!
Inspiring. I’m gonna get some and have a play.
It's real fun! Enjoy🤩👨🎨
I find it interesting that you shade with kind of...slightly off from opposite colors. I never considered purple and green as opposite until I saw you do it all the time...always thought more purple with yellow. I tend to paint in a more traditional way of darker colors for shade and lighter colors for highlights but I definitely like what you do with your colors and I want to try out using those opposites as shades. Might give it a shot on my next figure.
It also depends on what kind of green you are trying to complement. Lime green is a green with a yellow shift, so you compliment that with the red that has a purple/violet shift, which is, of course, a magenta.
@Pulat gave a piece of very useful information, thanks! Colour theory unlocks a lot of surprising combinations 😊
Thanks for watching and supporting, guys 🤗
Hello ,
I am new in airbrushpainting and want to use acrylic inks
Whats the dosage ink and medium for airbrush ?
Do we need medium and thinner for airbrush or just one of them.
Greetings Viper
I'd be interested to see what a wash of orange ink looked like over a piece of pitted armor painted in a dull metallic looked like, maybe thinned with some matt medium or hit up afterwards with some matt or ultra matt varnish.
nice i just got some this ink... nice timing ... should you be thinning if using a brush as dont airbrush ??
Absolutely, they're incredibly potent 😊 If you don't you'll get a nasty shock😅
What airbrush compressor are you using in this video? It’s so quiet! I just got an iwata hp-cs and I’m looking for a quiet compressor.
I’m so happy I found both Liquitex & Daler Rowney inks at michaels.
They're definitely really cool! Always fun to try something new🤩
Can you provide a link to where I can purchase the brushes you use in dry brushing. Cheers Steve from Australia
Hey Steve, I am using our Series D for the drybrushing store.artis-opus.com/
Greetings from the UK🤗
@@ArtisOpus thankyou, love your vids by the way great technic .
So effin cool!
@@ArtisOpus I have purchased some myself, dusted off my old airbrush... mainly after getting into 3D printing. So thanks very much for this demo my friend. Got my compressor on its way.
For a Beginner would you suggest the Ink or the normal Liquitex Colors with some thinner?
These Colors looks so good.
I think the inks are pretty unique, I'd go for them, just go careful😊
Thanks for the video…I’ve thought about picking up some of these ink for my airbrush.
What airbrush stand is that? Looks very sturdy!
What sort of cleaning do these paints need? Can you just rinse you brush in water or do you need a stronger cleaner fore these?
Water is enough if it is water-based acrylic ink. When you finish painting always use a little bit of neutral soap too, it will lengthen the life of your brushes ;)
Agree with @Miguel, they don't seem too heavy😊
Awesome, thank you both for helping😁
I just found your channel. I kick started one set of your brushes. I am a beginner, I noticed you have a set of 15 brushes. Is it appropriate for a beginner? Do you have stuff on learning to use an airbrush?
Hey dude, a set of 15 brushes? Do you mean the navigator bundle (of 3 sets)? It's everything a beginner could want! (+ maybe a size 3 S :))
We do, a beginner's series with a couple of episodes, search 'Airbrush' in our channel.
Please reply via another comment, YT is awful for notifications! Apologies for the delay, thanks for supporting us early days on KS!
@@ArtisOpus I took a risk and ordered it, but as a teacher this was pricey; now I learned you are backlogged and I may not get it for quite some time.. :(. I have a patriot 105. I could not afford your vortex mixer…..
What size nozzle and what PSI are you spraying with? You're getting a lot more specking than I do with inks.. I'm generally using a .3mm and 15-20 PSI. I have a lot more problems with them in my .5mm nozzle airbrush. I rarely thin them, but finding the sweet spot on the trigger is a lot of practice so you don't swamp what you are painting. Thinning will knock the pigment level down some if you are looking for something less intense. It's definitely all about multiple thin layers though.
All very good tips, 0.4 and 20 PSI roughly. Amount of practice though so I'm definitely far from the sweet spot.😊
Hello, we are a good number of French people who don't really speak English. Someone from your staff told me that we would then have your videos subtitled in French. can you tell me where it is? because we love your videos! is that will be great in addition to really understand. thank you in advance
What would you recommend using for glazing? Would there be a vid displaying the uses of glazes?
I'll definitely cover this at some point in the future. It's all about thinning your paints and practice, check out Marco NJM for some great tutorials on it.😊
Are you cleaning out your airbrush in between colors? Do the acrylic inks make it harder to clean?
Interesting video Byron, thanks for that, just bought some inks as well so time to experiment for sure. How would you say they compare to using contrast paints in a similar manner as filters? Also, what do you use for pre-shading, I'm struggling to find a good white for that at the moment and your pre-shaded curved blades look really clean. Thanks
They're very comparable. I'd say they're like the stronger contrast paints, they're very potent. Try bold titanium white from Monument for pre-shading, it's really very special😊
@@ArtisOpus thanks for that, that’s pro acryl right?
I bought some Liquitex inks recently and used them straight from the pot in the airbrush...have you tried them undiluted? How much thinner did you use anyway? And at what pressure (bar/psi) did you spray?
At least 50/50 dilution. My pressure was quite high, about 25 but lower would be better. There's definitely potential undiluted but they're very very strong.😊
Thanks. Yes I know...that's why I asked. They exit the airbrush fine undiluted...but some of them are quite overpowering.
What is the airbrush you are using? I'd like the product information please? Thanks
will the acrylic paints they have work on minatures? will they match the inks vibrancy?
Hi man, such an inspiring video! Thanks. Can i ask you how you achieved such a smooth pre shading for the blade?
Thanks. Bye!!!
Hey dude, it's just monument Ivory thought the airbrush, done in the same style as the inks around 3minutes in to the video!
You can stipple this though, check out our recent power-weapon tutorials for an idea on how to drybrush blends :)
Have you compared them to Pro Acryl transparents? Those paints cam replace almost everything with the right medium.
Plenty of people have mentioned this. I've had really good experiences with the brand so I'm definitely keen to give them a go!🤩Thank you!
I would like to ser these inks on ork skin, the lime green one could be soo cool on orks.
Also wanna know How would you use the ink on orks for example, first base coat of black and zenital white and then green ink? Or maybe use the magenta one for shades from bellow?
You can do both. I've actually painted quite a lot like that in the past just now with these specific products. Orks will be a great place to try it out🤩
what if you add some matt varnish to your ink instead of medium, it reduces the shine, but also sets them and dont reactivate the previous layer?
Very interesting idea! You could use matte medium instead to potentially retain better workability 😊
Interesting vid. Do you think spraying the model with a matt varnish afterwards will bring down the sheen?
Thanks, dude! Yes it will😊
I wonder how it would go mixing with metallics? It might avoid some of the dulling you can get mixing in non-metallics
Definitely check out Marco Frissoni's channel, he uses inks over Metallics all the time.. they work amazingly well
There's definitely some real potential with metallics, I am keen to practice further. And, yes, check out Marco has amazing content 🤩
Loved the vid again Byron. I have yet to more away from GW. Not sure why just not tried anything else yet but I am really interested in trying Vallejo paints, for me I think these are too bright but still a great video nonetheless.
Keep up the great work. Your dedication and interesting videos are much appreciated!
They're great fun to use though! Thanks a million my friend🤗
awesome video mate, thank you!
Makes me want to explore the that technique/transition on spikey things, like Aeldari/Drukhari Jet bikes! And I only just started playing Chaos, lol. >.
How would you compare these with the Inktense set from Scale75?
They're definitely comparable. I've not played with them enough to give a proper comparison but they do feel like they're maybe a little more forgiving whilst still being super potent.😊
@@ArtisOpus I don't know if it's true for all inks, Scale 75 inks are quite glossy. What about Liquitex? (Maybe I should wait for the video 😁)
@@ThomasGallinari The Liquitex ones that I've used (10 or so) are somewhere between matt and satin (more matt). What I will say is that Liquitex is very strong inks, while not being overpowering in colour. If that makes sense. (-:
Don't want to link to others in here, but a quick yt search for "liquitex ink" will give you a lot of mini painters who use them.
Liquitex like scale 75 all have a slight varied finish and set time. I find the liquitex take a bit longer to dry and 'cure' enough to be able to handle normal brushing. If you plan to use a contrast over a a zenithal I just using the contrast in an airbrush or toss a light varnish over the ink.
Could you tell us what airbrush and compressor you use here?
It would be good to see how the reds and purples worked together for world eater style painting.
Hi. At what pressure do you spray the inks ?
Hey John, I was using quite high pressure here to avoid getting sputterings😊I think a lower pressure would be better, I am just a little out of practice with my airbrush.
Great stuff!
Thanks so much!!
For some reason when i airbrush my inks they come out really wet and just got everywhere how can j fix this?
Lower pressure significantly, test on paper first :)
Any tips? Let us know! Liquitex can be found here, or fairly commonly at local art-dealers: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-washes-etc/liquitex?d=10051
The gorgeous airbrush used in this video is one of the 2 Cult of Paint Airbrushes: store.artis-opus.com/collections/airbrushes
Can you tell what product the palette in the video is?
I’m quite new to airbrushing and have sprayed the red ink from FW and the white liquitex ink. Both came out quite glossy and almost ‘enamely’, is this normal or did I not shake the bottle enough....or spray it from a wrong distance? Either way, it look nowhere near as crisp and clean as pro you tubers when they spray it. I understand a lot of that is to do with practice but is there any special prep you need to do before spraying inks? Worth noting, I didn’t thin down my inks....
It's one of the few downsides of these products, there's definitely something to be aware of. A good matte varnish is your friend here, it will work wonders. Thining your inks is necessary even if only a little and will make a difference to the finish😊
@@ArtisOpus good tips, will try that. many thanks
What was your ratio white ink to thinner and with what pressure you sprayed it?
Solid work as always. Out of interest, how would these go with some series D action? I’ve seen white ink out of a airbrush used as a great zenithal but wondering if you could get the same outcome without the airbrush but still using the ink
Taking my none 40k fantasy angle, how about using these inks as highlight for things that are silk cloth or the like. Be it a dress or hose on a noble or maybe on a war banner or flag. Maybe even Samurai inspired Laquered Armour. Use the inherent shine to represent materials that would reflect light.
Not a bad idea, dude! I'd need the practice to make sure that I can do it predictably as you're trying to take science with anything like that and make it into an art, which is generally tricky!
Coud You make vido with one marine as Legion of the Damned? with bursting flames and light from aemor?
That'd be cool but also hard. I'll have to give the matter some thought😅
Really enjoying your videos 😁
Part of it is the amazing picture quality. Do you have an affiliate link for the cameras you use?
Thanks so much, buddy! To be honest, my equipment is quite basic - I use my personal phone for recording (Samsung S10 Plus), a microphone and some lightning 😊 If you got any more questions please let me know.
No way! That's awesome.
A friend got me onto your videos and I've been sharing them. It's criminal you don't have more subs yet. Keep up the amazing work.
Treating myself to the Full drybrush set for my 30th next month after watching your work 😁
dude, try out golden hi flo acrylics through the airbrush, mainly their transparent and fluorescent lines.
I've got an art shop close that stocks these, I am definitely keen to give them a go🤩
Ooooh, I spy a Sigvald!
I'd love to see your take on him
Very observant! You may get your wish soon, I've got some plans😏
@@ArtisOpus Oooooh, if that's for your converted army I'm mega excited. :O
I preshaded a model with white Liquitex ink but unfortunately found that glaze made with Citadel Lahmian Medium dissolves the dried ink. It was a huge mess!
I am so glad other people are saying about this as I'm sure I'd have ended up doing the same😅😅Thanks!
@@ArtisOpus My pleasure! I've learned so much from your videos, it's nice to feel I'm giving something back! :D
Question.
Can anyone tell me if the Lx Inks they dry matte or glossy?
Inks tend toward satin finishes, particularly if several stages of them are used! They are super strong though, so just a drop can be thinned lots, and this pulls them right back :)
What colour of ink to use on what colour? Do I use the same colour ink as my base coat?
I don't really understand the question, can you explain further please?
@@ArtisOpus I just wanted to know what colour of ink to use that works perfectly with my scheme.
Great video! I love watching your process! My only criticism here is I wish you timelapsed a bit less on the axe. I was very interested in seeing how you did power weapons that weren't straight-edged swords and the timelapse made it hard to understand the process there. Loved it overall!
Cheers, dude! I don't have a fixed method and it took me ages and I definitely didn't do it correctly. If I'm gonna demonstrate something for the camera I always try and make sure it's gonna be easy to follow. you wouldn't have been able to take any good info away from me experimenting😅I'd definitely do it for a future video though😊
I don't like thinner in that brand of inks. I just put in some Vallejo flow improver. The thinner makes it runny
Interesting, good point also! They're definitely on the wet side in comparison to what I'm used to already😊Thanks!
So are they just like contrast paints?
Nope, they're not formulated with a thick body medium, I'm using them as glazes here, not washes (which pool in recesses, giving variation).
They're also damn-strong, which most contrasts weren't... until the last wave at least
Ah yes Byron's natural language seeps into the channel all it took was some overspill. ;). I'd love to see what these inks can do to create glowing effects. For something different how about some kind of psychic/magic glow? as opposed to something like a plasma coil. Look forward to seeing how the inks work using brushes too!
I'm definitely going to experiment with this myself. It seems that it'd potentially be easier from the brush than from the airbrush as the airbrush flattens out glazing a little. Thanks for the awesome suggestion as always🤩🤩
I've heard people Matt varnish over the inks usually
I painted my entire army of Blood Angels with inks over greyscale light values. When I did, I had three test models with different varnishes. Matt Varnish works for sure. Maybe not quite as much as it does over acrylic paint. However, it is noticeable.
Awesome advice @Leonard and @Nagash, thanks so much! 😊
Not sure these are for me to be honest, but if you want to try out some new stuff why not take a look at the Ultimate Modelling Products washes? They're pretty unique in that they're a heavy, clay based pigment so you do have to keep shaking them up, and they tend to dry lighter than they look fresh from the bottle, but you can re-activate them with water and they're about the only acrylic washes around that can make really convincing dust effects or dirt streaks
Wow! I am definitely going to give these some research, they sound really interesting🤩 Thanks a million, Simon!