INCREDIBLE METAL made easy! Using ONLY ONE METALLIC PAINT?
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- store.artis-opus.com/products...
In this tutorial we're teaching you how to drybrush HIGH QUALITY metallics, with depth, in a formula which you can customise however you want, but introducing accent colours of your choice!
This video covers plenty of tips and hints for any minis, so if you're wondering how to drybrush any of your Warhammer 40k or Warhammer AOS minis you're in luck!
If we get enough thumbs up maybe Byron will paint a Knight Army...!
0:00 Intro
1:10 Imperial Knight
15:32 Weathering
18:51 Base
19:53 Details and additional weathering
21:43 Finished Model and Outro
How to Strip Miniatures fast (Ultimate Easy Guide): • HOW TO STRIP MINIATURE...
Space Marine tutorials:
Ultramarines (Airbrush + Drybrush + Wash synergy): • How to paint Ultramari...
Dark Angels (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint DARK ANGE...
Salamanders (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint Salamande...
Black Templars (ultra-crisp drybrush+wash armour): • How to Paint BLACK TEM...
Imperial Fists (artistic purple shadow drybrush armour): • INDOMITUS How to paint...
Space Wolves (our take on Space Wolf Grey): • Space Wolves Painting ...
Minis:
Necrons (aged Verdigris scheme): • How to Paint Necrons -...
'Ghostbuster Green' Nighthaunt (Contrast + Washes): • PAINT GHOSTLY MODELS F...
Classic Nighthaunt: • How to Paint Classic N...
Vehicle tutorials:
Space Wolves: • How to Paint Warhammer...
Turquoise Tanks (alpha legion overclocked rhino): • How to Paint a Space M...
Star Wars Legion AAT: • How to paint: AAT Batt...
Large Miniatures:
AMAZING Great unclean one in 3 hours with Drybrushing: • INSANE Great Unclean O...
Fundamental/Basic army level Techniques:
How to Control GW Texture paints (e.g. Agrellan Earth): • GW Texture Paints Unlo...
Black Armour: • PAINT BLACK ARMOUR LIK...
Leather 3 ways: • How to Paint Leather F...
White 3 ways: • Painting white miniatu...
Gold 3 ways (bonus advanced gold): • How to Paint GOLD: FAS...
Yellow 4 ways: • How to Paint Yellow Wa...
Assembling, converting, and painting Forgeworld (Rogue Idol): • Re-posing an Orruk Rog...
Paint Realistic Flames - with DRYBRUSHING!: • How to Paint FLAMES an...
Chipping using AK Interactive Products: • Easy Chipping effects ...
Terrain:
Glowing 40k/SF Terrain: • How to paint 40K terra...
Glowing/firey/endless spells: • Paint all GLOWING Terr...
Dungeons: • Game Changing MODULAR ...
Grey Walls: • How to paint terrain D...
Upgrade those Grey walls with enamel washes in 3 quick steps!: • Upgrade ANY terrain in...
Glowing Green GHOST WALL: • Drybrush Striking Glow...
Synthwave Purple/Pink Wall: • Drybrush Fluorescent G...
Yellow Shipping Container: • PAINTING YELLOW MADE E...
Texture paint (agrellan) Basing Drybrush Scheme tutorials:
Mars/Desert Basing (quick, 'warm' basing): • How to Paint QUICK & E...
Cracked Lava Base: • How to Paint Volcanic/...
Grimdark (cool grey): • How to paint High qual...
Huge bases fast (airbrush, drybrush, wash): • How to Paint Big Bases...
Icy Bases: • How to paint Icy Tundr...
Basing Tutorials:
Metallic Sector Mechanicus 3 ways: • Simple Sci-Fi Industri...
Build a Scenic Base fast (with greenstuff and a rock!): • BUILD a better base fo...
Paint your Scenic Base - Spooky Basing: • How to Paint a Moonlit...
Limestone Basing: • How to base miniatures...
In this video Byron’s using the Artis Opus Brushes!
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series D Brush set: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
XL Series D: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-opus.com/
Music: Bensounds
#ArtisOpus #Warhammer #ImperialKnights
The one thing I have Learned from putting knights together magnetize the weapons and paint the plates separate. It would take just a little bit more time but it makes everything easier and if you do won’t to keep the plates on use blue tack because sometimes people don’t know how much a little bit of glue or what kind to use. Super glue as a dot will work but plastic glue will weld the peace’s together and when pulled apart might damage the model. You don’t won’t to damage something you have payed up to $100 or more so I just recommend the blue tack or paint them separate.
Best channel for this hobby in my opinion, well done 👍
I was totally unaware of this type of painting I have always made model kits I stumbled on your vids during lockdown and I am hooked on it, so many thanks for opening this new challenge too me I am now looking at buying some figures and having a attempt at painting them will follow you with great interest you are a very talented painter and your methods are inspiring
Loved this tutorial as i have all your other dry brush tutorials, i have even ordered a set of your brushes, some paints and accessories, and some 40k miniatures, i am going to try and follow your Space Wolves tutorial as my first attempt at painting anything 😃 what i would like to see would be a dry brush tutorial for white scars as that was what i had first wanted to try but had no clue where to start, keep up the good work 😄
"I really do not enjoy painting wobbly bits" statement that saved 2020.
I agree that 2020 was quite wobbly.
🤭🤭🤭
wow, just tuned in, amazing things that can be done dry brushing, please keep them coming, learning a lot, Thank You!
Thanks so much, buddy! Keep watching and we'll keep painting 😁
Appreciate the TMM, I always love how it contrasts with the more Matt of a standard paint. Top job, thanks!
🥰 cheers!
Phenomenal! So beautiful and an so quick! Lots of inspiration! Thank you very much!
You are so welcome! Thanks for the support and Happy 2021🥳
Thank you so much for these vids, I never thought I'd be able to come close to achieving the airbrushed looked without using one.
Our pleasure🙂Drybrushing has lots of potential, that’s what I like showing in our videos. Thanks so much to you too for watching and supporting!
Thank you so much for this painting guide!
I've never seen drybrushing used in this way, very cool! You've got a new sub!
Awesome! Thank you for your support! Welcome aboard 🤗
Amazing!!! Everything looks easier when I watch the tutorials!! I have to try this!!!
Totally agree. I have watched Byron's last few dry-brushing videos and am determined to have a go (even bought a set of Artis Opus series D brushes!). Brilliant tutorials.Thanks again Byron.
An awesome looking model. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you think so! Thanks for the support!
This was super inspiring... That streaking grime, so potent
It's liquid talent, dude😊
For other viewers, if you want it really battle worn, consider different colors on parts, like the top access panel being brighter as if it had been replaced, so is newer. Also leave pieces off, like a shoulder panel that was lost in combat, this is why if you find good WW II German tank models, you will see missing panels on the sides, or fender parts.
Epic as always!
Yey😊
Looks amazing 🤩
Thank you!🤩
Excellent effect!
Thanks so much, bud! I really enjoyed painting it and the result turned out surprisingly well ^_^
Love what you did here! Going to try this on some necrons. Thank you for all your hard work and time! You really push the limits of dry brushing.
I don't know how we missed this! Did you test it out dude? How did it go?
Let us know in another comment :)
Amazing I learn so much in 20 minutes!
Our pleasure, Ian! plenty more on the channel!
I needed this. Thank you.
You're so welcome! I'm glad😊
Amazing vid cheers chaps! Thank you as always!
Our pleasure!🤩
Loving these videos I'm slowly catching up again after a hectic Xmas period haha
You and me both dude, we're working on some big videos for the future! Thanks for the kind words :)
Awesome as always! I love how your videos are becoming more self aware in terms of the little jokes that go in the videos. One small request (and I know it's been asked before and you've kinda done it already) is an in-depth cleaning video of these brushes
Thanks so much for the support Alex😊We do have a care video but we're also planning to do a more in-depth one in the near future. ua-cam.com/video/YtusgeEr3tM/v-deo.html
Wow! Really nice
Thanks, buddy!
Awesome effect!
Thanks so much! Happy you liked it😊
Awesome video, tip going to come in handy on the knight I've just black primed.
Awesome :) let us know how he goes in another comment! (YT isn't good for notifications)
Fantastic content yet again.
Glad you think so! :)
Wow that looks amazing
Glad you think so! Thanks! 😊
I’m just starting a knights army! This is so helpful
Yes, enjoy! We have plenty more metallic tutorials :)
This is gorgeous
Thanks man!
Right on! :) Many Thanks! :)
Our pleasure 😊And thank you for watching and support!
Super useful video, thank you @artisopus
Always happy to help! Thanks so much for watching and supporting! ☺️
Thank you, I learned a lot
Amazing!
Cheers, buddy! :)
Fantastic!!!!
Many thanks!😊And happy NY🥳
If you love dry brushing metallics, you should try Gundam kits, especially doing the inner frame on RG or PG kits.
Gorgeous
Thanks, my man :)
I had an idea. I think it would be neat to see a couple Tyranid gaunts painted in Caucasian fleshtone on their skin, flat matte, with their hard shells painted slightly lighter like the color of finger nail and then with a white edged tip. Finish with a gloss on the shell only.
Like the nids absorbed human biomass and wound up looking like them. Maybe even put some blemishes like a mole or freckles or glued on hair fibers in certain areas emulating human organic textures..
yucky. love it
That Armigar Knight turned out well. This could be a colour scheme I might use on my Chaos Knights when I undercoat them sometime this year? The tone on your mini knight is good.
Yea absolutely, dude! You can use the washing technique over the silver to tint things whichever way helps it fit with your army better. Good luck✌
Absolutely hyped to try and use this on my Grey Knights (though I'm kinda terrified to paint them, since it's my first time painting minis and they have so many tiny details on them)
Buy the brushes and texture-palette used in this video here: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
This video has received a lot of love, why do you think? Would you like more metallic-content? Let us know what we should cover next!
I love your vids man!
Thanks so much, dude!
Gracias mate, I'll try, merry xmas
Thanks dude! And Happy NY🥳
Oooh just what I need!!
😊What are you planning to use it for?
@@ArtisOpus Im trying to paint up this awesome steam punk dragon . I would love to see you use more different colours and techniques for metal in the future!
love this video, convinced me to buy some armigers
Thanks so much for the support, buddy! And Happy 2021🥳
That looks amazing! If you were to do a death guard daemon engine style model, like foetid bloat drone, would you suggest doing the flesh portion after the drybrushing and weathering?
hot damn that is good, well done once again
Many thanks, dude😇
Another quality video thank you. 100% need you to do grimdark though please! This was like teasing 🤣
I've tried this twice and it's very different from my style of painting. I need to learn how to do it first or ask someone for help. I'd love to demonstrate it😁
Thanks so much and Happy 2021🥳
I came for the painting tutorial, stayed for the wobbly bits
🤣🤣wobble
Love these!
Going to be using a bunch of what you did here in my planned army... brb watching this again :D
Thanks so much, dude! What army do you have planned? Glad you find it useful 😊
@@ArtisOpus All mech to run about and stomp stuff. is it doable? :D
I know that the Vallejo metal colors are generally the recommendation from many people in terms of metallics, but honestly I prefer the game air/model air metallics for regular brush painting. They're inexpensive, have a very reflective finish with no graininess like you get from something like the GW metallics, and have awesome coverage. I tried the scalecolor metallics as well, and while those have a nice finish, the coverage isn't nearly as good and they don't go on as smooth as the Vallejo metallics. Definitely liking the technique of overbrushing that you're doing here for basecoating as well, I can't believe I wasn't doing it before, it just saves so much time.
Thanks very much, dude! Agree on all accounts! If you want a proper British-indy metallic recommendation to check out Dark Star paints - they're super interesting and generally exceptional 😊
Don’t forget to like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 🎅👍🏼
You the best🤩
Great job getting them to use your key moment anchors;)
Love it
Happy to hear!😊Happy NY🥳
Great video mate 👌
Cheers dude, big love, I hope you're both doing well
@@ArtisOpus thanks mate yeah we are all really good thanks hope you are too
That looks super nice, but I think I would stop quite early on, cover it with hairspray, then a red/brown "primer" then I would slap a paint job over all that with the salt chipping technique because this would be an awesome base for a layered chipping effect! then you can be choosy about weathering and pick out the bare metal bits to add rust effects to that make most sense and leave some shiney bits as recent damage! Damn, you got me thinking again....
Oh yeah, also, have you ever tried streaking effects like where rain has washed some of the grime out from between panels? That might look really good over a scheme like this, and its super easy to do too!
Excellent video again Byron. Love the look of this model and wanted to say I spat my tea out with your "I do not enjoy painting wobbly bits" comment. That was a class comment.
As always this is an amazingly clear and useful tutorial.
Just out of interest. I notice your brushes had a black tip. I guess this is your identification to know which brushes you use for metallic? Is this an accurate assumption?
Keep up the great work. Excellent as always and really look forward to your videos every time they release
Really awesome video and given me some ideas for some of my own big vehicles :) Would you go in at the rivets and lower sections with some of the AK rust deposits to add even more weathering and contrast with the super bright orange of them or would that take it too far? I know that going too far is always a risk when throwing a load of weathering materials onto models. Also, I assume it would have come out just as well if you wanted to use cassandora yellow or iyanden yellow instead of retributor juice?
I’m going back and rewatching some videos that I know I have watched before and I’m rediscovering things.
Happy that you've finding interesting stuff to rewatch. Thanks, buddy! 😊
I've been looking at how to add that really aged dull metal for the base of my knights. This is definately something I'm going to use. I've had a lot of luck with basing those mechanical parts in a flat brown so far.
Same man, it even worked out well on our recent necron lord (10 rules video), it's a really solid base
TBH I loved the silver blue stage and might steal that for painting fantasy armour.
Rock on! We have a Grey Knight who is similar if you want more :)
Subscribed!
Yes! 🤘🤘🤘 Welcome abroad, brother.
😂 them sleeves r living dangerously
Sure are, bought black for good reason apparently, although unhelpful with silver :D
amazing...
Glad you think so! Thanks a lot!😊
You Sir make by far the best videos. Really top notch. Keep up the awesome work!
Wow, thanks!🤩
Just found this recently and it is as awesome and inspiring as always, Byron, thank you for this content! 🙏
Could I ask you for tips regarding choice of blue paints to replicate the GW Boxart for House Terryn? 🤞🤓
This made me want to give my Necrons some love. As a video suggestion, I'd love a video of how you clean your Series D brushes. As a side note I'm considering putting an order on the Series D kit, but would love to know if you've got any sort of estimation on delivery times to Sweden for such an order if it was placed tomorrow (14/12).
From one drybrush addict to another. Keep up the good work!
Aand and now I realized that cleaning of the Series D is included in this video. ua-cam.com/video/YtusgeEr3tM/v-deo.html
I like true metallics. I'm glad you do too. this big fella looks awesome! Do you treat the air silver paint like a pre watered down paint when not using it in an air brush?
Welp, now I know how to paint my 3 Armiger so they'll be fantastic!
Will be amazing for it! Always happy to help! 🤩Let us know how it goes
I absolutely love the cool metal look you got! I'm curious, should you use a separate brush for working with metallics? my concern is some of the metallic flakes getting stuck in your bristles and turning all your future projects metallic. kinda like how if you're layering, everyone says you should use a separate water jar to keep the metal flake out of your non-metallic paints.
I should do, but don't always... I clean my brushes as I go (dampening pad, texture-palette) and it makes a really big difference.
If you ever see me using a brush with a black dot on the end... They are the ones I reserve for metallics only, I just don't always remember :)
the good old reverse wash
Hi, thanks for making these amazing video's. Did you use a varnish before you did the weathering?
Thanks so much, buddy! Yes absolutely, I talk about it in the video. It's an important step😊
My local games store finally has scale 75.... I now have huldra blue. Cannot wait to feel Nish my armiger's now!
Yes, it is time!
Helo, new to the channel and love your work. Two questions though:
What is the pot whit "sand" int he top right? What is it there for?
Just stumbled onto this one.
And it made me want to paint all of my knights in that colour scheme.
A question though: decals, before or after weathering? I'm tending towards before.
100% before, the weathering is a fantastic tool to tie everything together🤩
@@ArtisOpus Thank you. Thought so too. Any damage to the decal would just be weathering damage to the knight in question.
Awesome work. A question: do you use that specific brush to metallics only and if not, how do you clean it to get back to non metallic pigments?
Iron Within Iron With out Iron Within Iron Without.
Hmmm Shadowspear chaos half might see paint this year after all.
Could you do a Orange armor for Space Marines for example the Angels of Vigilance.
Hi, very nice video, i can t wait to receive my imperial knight in a few weeks now ! But I have a question, what is the thing on the top right where u put ur brush in ? I m not quite fluent in english, so u might said it but i didn't got it, sorry about that !
Another very helpful video, any plans on an orks video?
Thanks so much! Yup, definitely e need to give orks some love on this channel😁
as soon as you showed it to the screen the thing I immediately noticed was the lines on the knights weapon
Unfortunately this wasn't one I assembled, not enough hours in the day!
@@ArtisOpusHey do I detect you blaming someone else !!! 🤣😇 you can have the best paint job in the world but for me mould lines connections and flashing just irk me something fierce. I did however love the content and learned some new things, and I have tried many metallic styles including polishing certain parts on necrons painted with enamels !
That music has me expecting Cartman to pop up on the screen and try and sell me a house.
🤣🤣
Amazing works and great tips as usual! I want to try the streaking effects now but if I order a bottle it will freeze in the mail. 😭🇨🇦
Artist oils and mineral spirits should be fairly easy to get a hold of ( provided you live close ish to an urban area😉) and can function in a similar way.
I watched your video about drybrushing black cloaks and thought I might be able to use that method to highlight black painted armour on the inside of a Necron vehicle. Do you think the weathering enamels would obliterate matt colours or could it still be 'recovered' in the same way you recovered the metallics?
I love the colour scheme here, the dark grey metal is exactly what I had in mind for my current project. I’ve ordered my dry brushes & I’m going to give it a go on the armour plates on my Wulfen. Can we substitute similar citadel colours in if we don’t have Vallejo/air?
Hey dude, fantastic, thanks for the support! Of course:
The important thing is to pick a 'good' metallic, try and get one with these properties:
Bright (we can add black to darken)
Strong! (Good coverage)
High quality: fine pigments (Some GW feel smoother, less grainy, you want ones like this, retributor armour is a perfect example, you want a silver equivalent)
Did you try it out yet? I'm thinking of giving it a go for my space Mariens... not too sure about the streaking grime tho but absolutely love the dark matte bluish metal look
@@advictoriamgaming7554 I did! They came out really well!
@@pinkwolf6407 cheers mate! I'm just a bit worried that it has this typical chalky finish
Model looks great, another awesome video. Its time you upgrade camera to 2k or 4k so all viewers can see all details, even better. Keep Crushing!!!
Cheers, dude! We'll get there slowly, the only reason is what happens when technology doesn't work for me😅
@@ArtisOpus ?
“I also really like drybrushing, you might have noticed” 😂😂😂 just a bit!
🤭
I have a tip that I just figured out today for wobbly moving bits you take a teeny tiny and I mean a teeny tiny little blob of super glue on the joint and work the joint while it drys so it dosent dry together and if done correctly it should leave you with a still poseable stiffer joint so it dosent just fall down like a limp noodle.
Very solid advice buddy, works a charm! Thanks :)
@@ArtisOpus yaay I help. Lol
Like you I dislike painting "Wobbly" bits but then as I paint on the sprue, this tends not to happen. And yes there will be some out there that find that an abomination, painting on a sprue then having to match up afterwards but it's how I achieve the effect I am after.
Also I tend to paint metallic with rust effects saving on multiple steps - maybe you should try it and see if it suits your needs? Cheers.
It's your kit, paint as you feel and certain techniques cross over if its miniatures, planes , tanks or cars. And yes I get the painting on the spruce bit, I had one guy in a group tell me " you shouldn't paint on the sprue" I told him you do it your way and I'll do it mine, lol not in that group anymore. I paint miniatures and planes, did two tanks recently as a change, new skills learnt.
I couldn't quite hear, did you spray the model with varnish before you did the streaking grime? Beautiful work!
Yeah, not always strictly necessary, but it makes removal easier :)
Awesome video, Artis, thanks! I will be trying this technique on a 1/72 Razor Crest when I get to it. I have trouble drybrushing acrylics as they dry so quickly. Yours seem to be still workable after 20 and 30 minutes. Why is it so? Is it the brand, or the metallic content? I'd love to know!
Hey dude, I can't pin it down specifically, but I don't think it's anything to do with the brand (it doesn't contain retarder, etc).
I leave it neat on a primed palette, it's chaos black which is satin, that extends working time... And with the paint not being diluted you haven't increased evaporation speed, neat until used is safer, much like a traditional artist's palette :).
The palette itself is impregnated, but the prime is recommended in addition.
I now use the XXL redesigned one, it's got more flat space for traditional use, it's on the second page of this link :)
store.artis-opus.com/en-de/collections/series-d-drybrushing
Any more questions let me know in another comment, not a reply, they get lost :)
What is the purity seal that you mentioned? How were you able to wipe off the rust color with just a dry rag?
If you were to scale this up... Like to a titan, how would you approach getting the depth across a much larger area with less detail?
So you just took of the streaking grime with the cloth? no alcohol or thinner to get the wash off?
I have read a few times that the sharp flakes in metal paints destroy brushes, is that true for the series D brushes as well?
Can this be achieved with Vallejo Metal Colour as well? I have 3 silvers in that range, and I have 3 in the much cheaper Game Colour as well. The Metal Colour is the highest quality metallic colours I have though.
The Vallejo air that you've used looks amazing though. I imagine I can get a similar effect with the Metal colour as well. I bought the metal colour as it can be used to make glazes from. I just hope it;s good for this sort of thing as well, as honestly I've bought so many metallics paints now, I'd hate to have to start buying even more. Although I'd only need the one air brush vallejo for this (the metal colour is air brush paint as well though)
Was that dry, broken dirt texture part of the base when you printed/bought it, or do you have a technique for creating that yourself? I mostly do dioramas based around hot wheels & die cast star wars ships and have been experimenting with techniques to get that look, but haven't quite nailed it yet. If it's something you did, it'd be dope to see how it's done!
Either way, this turned out awesome!
Byron put down a couple of games workshop's basing pastes to create the effect, I think he shows which ones he uses at the start 🤔
Great result, did you use anything on the cleaning cloth to remove the streaking products like odorless thinner or lighter fluid?
Nah, just gave it a proper scrub with washing up liquid and soap, you could though :)
@@ArtisOpus ok, thanks for the reply
Hi! I wanted to know at 17min14. When you wipe with your cloth, you do it dry or you wet with water?
My body is ready
Did you like it?😊
@@ArtisOpus Couldn't be more helpful, I've learned so much from this session.
The fact of the matter is, there is ALWAYS something more to your tutorial video beyond your voice comments.
I mean, there are tons and tons to learn about the process by watching how you work with brushes and paints, and how often you use damping pads, etc.
Which is why I always rewatch the whole vid several times over, because there's just so much nuanced, unspoken details to pick up by watching your workflow.
I know it's a long shot but can you give us the exact recipes for the two washes?
Honestly bud, it just doesn't matter:
You're doing multiple stages, each of which obscures some of the last, you could always note yours down the first time so you have exact replicable steps, if you wanted a way to have an army all exactly the same.
Don't want to come off flippant, and understand it's more comfortable for people to follow an exact recipe, if you rock on without one though... You will still smash it, and get an amazing result.
Do let us know if you do, in another comment, UA-cam isn't great for notifications on ongoing conversations:).