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Creality CR10S Pro V2 Gets a 4.2.7 Silent Board Plus Ender 3 V2 HD Color Display Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 2 лют 2023
- How to finally ditch that 8-bit control board and buggy touch display in the CR10S Pro V2 that no one supports and install the powerful Creality 4.2.7 32-bit 512k board flashed with Miguel's Professional Firmware with some of the latest Marlin features like MPC, UBL, Bed Tramming, and Thumbnail STL file preview images just to name a few.
Creality 4.2.7 Silent Control Board - amzn.to/40uOpML
Ender 3 V2 HD Display - amzn.to/3X3raGC
30 Pin Header Male Pin Header - amzn.to/3XXd76S
Stepper Motor Cables - amzn.to/3kZQHmN
Support Files - drive.google.c...
Music:
Song: Jim Yosef x ROY KNOX - Sun Goes Down [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds
Free Download/Stream: ncs.io/SunGoesDown
Watch: • Jim Yosef x ROY KNOX -...
Victor, you sir, are a legend. I have been wondering how to best upgrade my CR10s Pro. Thank you for the information. I work in the 3D printer parts industry, but this printer has so little support it was hard to figure it all out.
Hello Sayer, Thank you for your kindness. I agree with you about the lack of community support. Switching from the stock 8 bit board and touch display has been a real game changer for this printer. I recently added the Micro Swiss NG and am really liking it so far.
Best of luck with your upgrades!
Victor for President! Thanks to this video I was finally able to upgrade my monoprice mp10 (CR10 Clone) and make it a big-boy machine! I was able to successfully install a 4.2.7 creality board, with the ender 3 v2 display, BTT Smart Filament sensor, and a decent hotend! I think the thing to remember is that all the components are made to turn step motors... so just stay focused, and positive and when in doubt see if Victor has a video on it yet! Thanks!
Hi Steven, Thank you for your kindness and comments. I appreciate you very much and excited that you gave your machine a well deserved upgrade. Great job staying focused and seeing the upgrade through. I'm having a blast with mine. More content coming soon :)
About time some one updated that board.
Hi Frankentrain Laboratories, Thank you for commenting. Its still surprising to me what little support surrounds this printer.
@@vbared I find I am printing more for customers magically, and require the best protection and restart My 10S Pro V1 has most of your upgrades. The last being Microswiss DD Hot end and BL touch. But I need speed, accuracy, qualitiy and safety. Would this board be a way to open up more options to enhance the machine. .3 Nozzle, Linear rails, Bigger Motors X and Y ???????? Dennis
@@DennisMurphey Hi Dennis, To print fast you need to lighten the moving parts. My future plans are to add a Micro Swiss NG and G10 build plate for performance enhancement and weight savings. Klipper is the king of processing speed and my plan for the CR10S Pro V2 is to add Klipper, which is easy to do with a 4.2.7 control board. Unfortunately the current Raspberry Pi chip shortage has the prices almost 10x higher than they were in 2019. The new 4.2.7 board is a step towards Klipper and can run Miguel's Professional Firmware that adds many adjustability and performance features like Input Shaping and Linear Advance in the meantime.
What filament are you planning on using for your parts?
@@vbared I am doing well with PLA+ I can go high density infill for structural parts or 10% infil for body panels or trim. Occasionally i use CF PETG for high temp Smoke Generators. If this machine style is permanently limited then I have to get a second machine, Getting a lot request for parts so More Production than R&D lately. Thanks for all you buddy its a good basic machine. I think I need a setup optimizing tutorial.
Nicely done and well detailed. Thanks for posting and sharing this, I'm about to start the process to switch my CR10S Pro V2 to this same motherboard/controller configuration.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Migration over to Klipper is also easy once this upgrade is completed. If your end goal is to run Klipper, then don't bother with the Ender 3 V2 display and instead use that money to purchase a Raspberry Pi, which is what will be running the Klipper system. The advantage to Klipper is getting access to pressure advance, input shaping, and ability to make software changes to the printer without having compile and flash firmware like you do in Marlin based ones. Check out my video below on the upgrade to Klipper.
Installing Klipper on the CR10S Pro V2 - ua-cam.com/video/Lz2UxyehG6s/v-deo.html
Configuring Pressure Advance and Input Shaping on the CR10S Pro V2 - ua-cam.com/video/2WQPF5XseN0/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for all your videos. Im trying to idiot proof my CR 10S Pro V2 and have performed most of the mods you have made videos of. This is the last thing i think i will do. Well maybe the NG direct drive extruder (someday) I was going to ask about the wiring of the CR touch but you answered my question already so i will just de-pin a connecter and wire as you show it. Again, i cannot thank you enough for your videos. Keep up the great work.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in these videos for your viewing time. Yeah, I hear you, super frustrating to buy a flagship Creality printer only to find out that Creality and community show it little to no support. These days the CR10S Pro V2 is bulletproof. Back to back prints of any size, absolutely no problems. If you decide to go direct drive I can tell the Micro Swiss NG REVO is amazing. The only machines I've had zero hotend problems with either have the REVO style hotend or E3DV6 all metal hotend. The Micro Swiss standard hotend with the titanium heat break and Creality stock MK8 type hotends upgraded to all metal heat break both fail after about 500 hours if printing.
I'm going to have to do a follow up video of the current upgrades and elaborate on what's worked and what didn't.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared I saw the NG to REVO video a week after i purchased and installed a Micro Swiss all metal hotend but im thinking about putting in the NG REVO anyway especially after reading what you said about the all metal hot end failing after about 500 hours. I do have a question, have you updated any of the stepper motors? I was watching a video comparing PLA filaments and the person stated that the new printer they just acquired had a higher resolution stepper motor and that would make for better print quality. Anyway, thank you for the great content and I enjoy watching, even if i do not have the model printer you are working with.
@@monsterpatch9074 The NG REVO is amazing. Proper Printing did a direct drive shootout video that made buying it a no brainer for me once I realized that Micro Swiss came out with a REVO version. The Slice Engineering boron paste is the only thing I can think of that would provide the additional insurance needed to keep the sealing surfaces from coming apart on non-REVO hotends. The only acception being a genuine E3D V6 all metal, that thing is a bulletproof hotend.
The CR10S Pro V2 is an awesome platform that will reward you with beautiful prints after its bugs are worked out.
I don't have any experience running stepper motors other than stock Creality. Adjusting my extruder steps on all my printers solved the under extrusion issues that plague most Creality printers out of the box.
I'm going to have to look into higher resolution steppers, it does make sense they would produce cleaner prints.
Best of luck with your mods!
Great video Vic! brought a cr10s pro v2 couple days ago and just couldn't get on with the 8 bit. just about to finish the last pieces ADXL345 should be here in 5 mins and ready to go!!! thanks for the video!!
That's awesome, man, pick them up super cheap from others that gave up on them, spend a few bucks in the right places and end up with a large format, reliable printer that produces accurate clean prints.
Link or email me some pics vbared@gmail.com
Have a great week!
That’s interesting. I purchased a broken cr10s last November from eBay and rebuild it doing exactly what you did. Using mriscoc prof firmware. With 4.2.2 board. Thanks for the explanation on multiple mesh that can be saved. I have to run it every time I use different bed. Too many features yet to be used. Thank you for sharing.
Hello Me Notu, Thank you for your kind comments. You can also create different CURA printer profiles that load different mesh slots by adding the following to your start gcode after the G28; Home all axes command. All you need to do is change the slot 0 to whatever slot you need.
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Load Mesh!
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (CR-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
Thankyou for this video. Recently upgraded my cr10s pro v2 with the sonicpad not realising that the 8bit board bottle necks klipper causing all sorts of issue. Just purchased the btt skr mini e3 v3 and using this video to rewire it. Withiut this video i would of been lost with that ribbon cable
Hi GP, You're most welcome. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Thank you for the info about the Sonic Pad with the stock 8-bit board. I was wondering about that. I just picked up an SKR mini E3 V3 myself for my Coreception 300 to run Miguel's Professional Firmware and eventually Klipper. Now that you have the pinout it should be straightforward.
Enjoy your weekend :)
Thank You for the Wiring, and reverse engineering👍
Hello friend, thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your CR10S Pro V2.
2024 and I just brought a CR10 back from the dead with this information.
Hi Dale, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Yeah, man, the CR10S Pro V2 IMO never received the love it deserved. It's a reliable machine that can produce big beautiful prints with the right hardware, Klipper, and slicer settings.
Best of luck with your projects!
I don't want to waste a bunch of your time, but my CR10 will not level the bed before prints. I'm using the same gcode as I do on my ender3 (also a 4.2.7 board) but it just centers, then waits for temperature and then starts printing. I do not have a programmers brain, I'm a hardware guy LOL. @@vbared
@@dalehawley4479 Hi Dale, No worries, I enjoy helping. I've switched all my machines over to running Klipper but found an old version of my CR10S Pro V2 Start G-Code. it may need a tweak but it should have what you need.
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
; CR10S PRO V2 Custom Start G-code
M117 Pre-heating the extruder!
M104 S150; start warming extruder to 150
M117 Getting the bed up to temp!
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Auto bed-level GO!
G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M117 Getting the extruder up to temp!
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X300 Y200 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN!
G1 X300 Y20.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw 1st line
G1 X297 Y20.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X297 Y200 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Autobots! Roll Out!
; End of custom start GCode
That put me at 100%! Thanks so much for the code! (Love the Autobots Roll Out!) LOL @@vbared
@@dalehawley4479 Great news, Dale, I'm glad it helped you. Enjoy your revived CR10S Pro V2 :)
Great job. Going to attempt this on an skr mini with Th3d firmware
Hello Gerran, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. This mod along with using Garolite G10 for the build surface is a real game changer for the CR10 S Pro V2. I just added a Micro Swiss NG that is 200 grams lighter than the original Micro Swiss direct extruder kit I was using. I'm planning to run Klipper on it so lighten the moving parts will allow it to print faster while maintaining the same quality.
Just found the BTT Pad 7 and been watching Videos, Wow! I t looks pretty darn Good Victor. What do you think , PAD 7 on the ole 10S Pro?
It looks super cool, I just purchased on of their 5 driver controller boards plus CB1 to do the same thing but on my Coreception 300 corexy printer. I'll just be using the web interface for control instead of the pad.
@@vbared I still wanted ther 4.2.7 board but Tiny Machines said no you would not benefit with the Pad 7 because it will do all the heavy lifting. I really wany that new science that Klipper provides. D
@@DennisMurphey The biggest problem with the CR10S Pro V2 is the stock green 8 bit board. Swapping mine out for the 4.2.7 or even better an SKR Mini 3 V3.
Hi Brad, what type of printer do you choose for the slicer in this configuration?
Hello,
Thank you for commenting. Make the selection based on what the printer actually is so if it's a CR10S Pro V2 then choose that in the slicer. The slicer doesn't care about what control board is in the printer just how much build space it has to use and how the printer moves (corexy, cartesian, delta...etc.).
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared
Thank you for your answer :)
I'm waiting for the board, display and extruder :)
Have a nice day
How did you setup or upgrade the display screen on the cr 10 pro? Have you got a video on that. Cheers mare. Great work you do.
@@vbared I thinks that's the wrong video. You might want to have a look at it. I opened it and it's different. Cheers mate.
@@EliasOda Lol, Sorry, I must not have copied the right link. An FE video won't help you with 3D Printing :)
ua-cam.com/video/hXZ3UPy67gc/v-deo.html
You’re the best! I’m new at this Dec/2022, and so far I’ve upgraded my CR10s Pro V2 to keep up with your upgrades. I’ve ordered the parts for the newest upgrade and downloaded your parts to make it happen soon
I’ll be posting questions for help in the near future.
Any changes this could work on my Ender 3 Neo?
Cheers!
Hi Falcon Lawn Dart, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad you are finding value in these videos for your viewing time. The 4.2.7 board upgrade is great on its own and will make transitioning to Klipper later a breeze.
I'll need to research the Ender 3 Neo to learn more about it but if the build plate is 235x235, like a standard Ender 3, then one of the best upgrades to get great adhesion without having to use glues, tape or scrappers is to print on Garolite G10 ( linked below).
Our Ender 3 precision cut G10 - amzn.to/3XfpUAv
My buddy picked up an Ender 3 Max Neo. We loaded Miguel's Professional Firmware on it and fixed a few assembly issues it had from the factory so far. Next thing we need to do is reduce the fan noise. I have videos on dealing with the noise that should also work with the Ender 3 Neo.
Enjoy your day :)
Thank You sir! This Level 2 (3d machinist) in training 😃is learning daily.
@@falconlawndart9597 It's an amazing hobby that has so many uses.
Enjoy your day!
Victor thank you for posting this! My CR-10S Pro V2 mainboard died and I wasn't able to source a replacement so I used your guide to replace my board with the Ender 3 and I couldn't have done it without your video.
Would you be willing to share the source code of the professional firmware configured for the 10S Pro V2? I'd like to adjust a few settings but I don't want to start from scratch since you've already configured everything for the 10S Pro V2, so I was hoping you might share it.
Thanks again for the excellent guide and giving me a path to resurrect my printer!
Hi Bill, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The firmware .bin I used can be found in the video description under the video support files. I've since added a Raspberry Pi running Klipper and did away with the display screen. Everything is controlled through the web interface and I now have access to input shaping and pressure advance.
Best of luck with your mods :)
@@vbared Thanks Victor! I have the bin file, but I was hoping for the pre-compiled version so I can change some things and then recompile it myself. Would that be possible?
I just watched the Klipper video this morning, that sounds fun and I may attempt it later, but for now I'm really digging Miguel's firmware. Thanks for such a quick reply!
@@billnienaber Hi Bill, check out my video on how to tweak the precompiled firmware. Unfortunately there is no single file I can send this way.
ua-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/v-deo.htmlsi=ZBoiSF6uCoG-xSgK
Ohh, this gets me so excited! Thanks!
Hello Spookjuhh, Thank you for commenting, this mod is a game changer for this printer that hasn't received the love from the community that it deserves. Make sure to download the support files from the video description to get the .STL file for the new display support.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared oh, I'm certainly planning on doing so. : ))
Thank you for showing your creativity and knowledge regarding this printer. It's one awesome printer, but as you mentioned, not much support.
And that is why was surprised to see couple of new videos from you regarding the CR10S Pro v2. No one makes those anymore. You do, though. thanks!
Would it be possible to remove the breakout board and just run directly to the new motherboard instead of doing all the wire creation?
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Yes, that's actually the best way of doing it.
Best of luck with your mods!
Will you make a video of Cr-10s Pro V2 upgrade to SKR motherboard with klipper firmware. That's what I'm aiming for with this printer. This ribbon cable sorting out is pain in ass...
Hello Kimjongun, Thank you for commenting. My plans are also to Klipperize this printer. I'm waiting on the prices of Raspberry Pis to come down. I'll put out a video when I get one. The Klipper setup should be the same but just using a different printer.cfg base file since I'm running the 4.2.7 board instead of the SKR mini 3.
How are you planning to connect the SKR board without dealing with the ribbon cable? Making up your own standard long cables?
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared I got a SKR Pico motherboard that only works with klipper firmware and I have a Raspberry Pi 4. I will leave the ribbon cable. I'll just use Dupont jumper wires.
@@kim__jong__un That sounds like a great solution.
@@vbaredcan he not do the same method of cabling as you did ?
@@guidancebeats Yes, he can, I believe he was just stating the fact that soldering the wires to the female plug pins is challenging. I thought the same as you when I first read it.
Nice video. If you have a choice, what would you go for: Creality 4.2.7 Control Board or BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 ? Do you know if Mini E3 can be used with Ender V2 Display and can you use Raspberry Pi with Creality 4.2.7 board?
Hello Me, Thank you for your kindness. Either one should yield the same results. I didn't learn about the Ender 3 V2 screen and Miguel's Professional Firmware compatibility until after I made this video. It's interesting you mentioned the SKR Mini 3 and Ender 3 V2 display. I just received mine that I'll be installing in my Corception 300. The dual z drivers is what prompted me to pick it up.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor. I have followed this video to rebuild my CR10S PRO v1 and it almost succeeded, however I am using a SKR mini E3V3 board as I couldn't get the flat cable rebuild to work.
My problem now is that all the stepper motors stand still and chop and make a lot of noise. My thought is that since the firmware is for an end 3 and there is a difference between X and Y the motor is based on end 2 of CR10 if something needs to be changed in the firmware, configuration.adv.h
I don't know enough about these things so I don't really dare to change anything, I'm afraid of ruining something
No, nothing had to be changed in that file, it was the wiring to the X motor where the connector was wired incorrectly (ready-made cable), so now the stepper motors run as they should
Yeah, another viewer had the same issue as you. The premade replacement cable he ordered came wired incorrectly as well, I'm glad you figured it out.
Excellent news, great detective work.
hi
thanks for the tutorial i was able to do it all except of the screen flashing . i did also the Troubleshooting still no success the screen doest go blue nor oreng just restarted
pls advise
Hello Ganor, You might not have the same DWIN display that I have. Creality uses different boards in their Ender 3 V2 screens. Check out the link below to determine which one you have. Make sure to set the correct display in the configurator tool so the firmware knows which one will be used, video on how to use it linked below.
ua-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/v-deo.htmlsi=vtlWPGND7HXmwqDt
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
Best of luck with your mods!
Thank you very much for the contribution. Excuse me, will you know if this method will be compatible with a cr10 max since they use the same plate. And I have also seen that people get some boards with some components to make the improvement, but there really is a difference
Hello ZosoD92, You're most welcome. I'm confident that the pin assignments for for the ribbon cable would be the same but would still double check things against my diagram before you commit to it. The 4.2.7 main board and Ender 3 display can be added to any printer and Miguel's Professional Firmware can also be adapted to work with any printer as well. The only thing I can't confirm is if the 3d printed adapter I made will fit it. I would suggest printing that part first to confirm it will fit the same way as it does on the CR10S Pro V2.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor and thank you for the great tutorial. How did you change the bed size on the firmware? Thank you!
Hello, Thank you for your kind comment. Go into the advanced menu and under the physical settings you'll find the X & Y max values. Once you change them make sure to store them to the EEPROM.
hi i pretty much build the same thing but i bought an ender 3v2 for parts and sadly i have the 4.2.2 mainboard i would like to change the software could you tell me how to do that
ps very good video
Hello graupe1, Thank you for commenting. Sure thing, I made this video on how to customize Miguel's Professional Firmware. Between this video and the one linked below you should be able to create one for the CR10S Pro V2 using the 4.2.2 control board.
ua-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/v-deo.html
I was wondering if anybody could make the wire harness and sell it.
is this the same wiring for the CR10s Pro. Thanks for the video.👍👍👍
Hello Johnboy1045, Thank you for commenting. I believe that everything should be the same since the only difference I see is the probe. I would still use an ohm meter to verify the pin outs with my diagram as a precaution.
Best of luck with your mods!
So i have had to watch this video about 3 times to get more comfortable with it all. The key is You have magically put ALL the Software needs in one spot for us with the tweaks for the 10s Pro. I could not do that on my own. Now the added cabling is all we need really? I am afraid my Struts will have to be moved I could not tell from the side view how far back the panel hangs out. Thinking $120 is not bad to upgrade so much of the machine. Better appreciating the firmware you found with set up and adjustment right there. I think the Y Axis Jerk is too high on my machine. Thank You Again. Do you have dual part fans on your nozzle?? Dennis
Hi Dennis, I too was intimidated by taking on this project but what gets me through most tasks like these is to break them down to small bites. I started this upgrade by wiring up the plug that fits over the ribbon cable. That way if I needed to print something it's easily reversible. Once the ribbon cable plug is done then make the z-stepper cable splitter. Next is mounting the board to the adapter, removing the old board, and starting to transfer the plugs over to the new board one at a time. Before you know it you'll be done. You need to make sure to flash the 4.2.7 board with the provided firmware first then flash the new display otherwise the new display screen will just beep at you when you first turn it on. Yeah, $120 to get the latest firmware functions plus being able to tweak anything on your CR10S Pro V2 is money well spent.
@@vbared I was warned the 10S Pro distribution board on the X axis may not be made to carry the amps necessary???
@@DennisMurphey Hi Dennis, I would give it a try. It's only $11 and would neaten up the installation. If it doesn't perform you can just follow the way I did it. Either way makes it totally reversible.
Hi Victor, nice video. Wondering if also the cr-10 Max can be upgraded.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. What control board does it have?
This is going to be a life saver for my printer. My MB just got shorted from my stupidity trying to remove the nozzle and there is no stock for it anywhere. Question wouldn't it be easier to just get a second daughter board and use that as a break out board? Not nearly so confident in making my own cables.
Hello Awrethien, Thank you for commenting. Dang, I'm sorry that you are dealing with a downed printer. I came across the daughter board after I had already completed the swap. It does look promising, let me know how the installation goes for you. I would plug a daughter board in at each end of the ribbon cable and test each port to make sure that what goes into one board comes out in the same place on the second. Another thing you can do is just purchase some long individual wires and ditch the ribbon cable. You could start from the gantry, soldering long wires to each of the components and work your way down to the bottom of the printer.
Have a great weekend :)
@@vbared Well almost done, just some final tuning. Good news a second daughter board is usable but for some reason the part cooling fan would only run at 100%. I was able to fix that by going through the unused second extruder plug. One odd thing is the display is refusing to update it says there is no bin file when trying to update. Screen is mostly usable, just seems to crash when I try to print a second time. Any ideas?
Check to make sure that the display you have is a DWIN display, if it's different you will need to compile the firmware to make full use of the display you have.
Use the link below to determine which one you have.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
@@vbared Yep that was it. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. First screen I had was a SYNWIT but the second was not. Hate when manufacturers change such parts they are using and have no way of telling what your getting. 😮💨 Thanks for the help, moving on to tuning lol.
@@Awrethien Yeah, that's super annoying and it stumped me pretty good when I was helping a friend flash his printer. Great job getting it working. Enjoy tuning it up, that's my favorite part.
Hey Victor this is a great upgrade thanks for sharing, however im having some issues with firmware ugrade, I cant get the screen to go orange showing it updated and ready to go, can you assist?
Hi Sarah, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Check this to determine which board your display has, Creality used several vendors to make them and some won't flash but need to be selected in configurator tool prior to compiling the firmware.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
The process for customizing your own firmware is detailed in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/v-deo.html
Best of luck with your mods :)
I am noticing a prominate lines in my prints with this machine even after installing the upgrade stiffening supports .any ideas as to what would cause this issue , i print reg pla with rc planes
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. Please link or email a picture or video so I can see it vbared@gmail.com
Do you have any idea why the hotend PID settings won't show in Pronterface?
I have exactly the same setup as you and I am trying to PID tune my hotend..
Hi Mark, What firmware are you using?
can you share the link for the firmware please?
Hello Michael, Thank you for commenting. It's in the video description and here for your convenience.
Support Files - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1E88gKW6LUk9BiwJCXl4f98vpU0XbP4dl
Best of luck with your mods!
Another great one Victor, I have an Ender 6 and an Ender 5 Plus sitting there waiting for me to get up an do something with hem, do you know if this firmware will work with them?
Hi Glenncol, Thank you my friend, My buddy Doug O'Conner is using Miguel's Professional Firmware on his Ender 5. I'll ask him to chime into this comment so he can answer questions you might have on how to configure it.
@@vbared Great stuff thanks
@Doc's 3D Print Shop Hi Doug, thank you for your detailed response. Your meticulous record keeping is awesome! Enjoy your Sunday.
@@docs3dprintshop142 Thanks heaps Doug
Victor, this looks goodd, where can I find the 3d print file for the motherboard adaptor and teh dispaly bracket?
Hi Lance,
Thank you for commenting and encouragement. The files you need are included in the video support files in the video description. I've included them below to save you a few steps.
ua-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbHBRT3lndVZqWXpJT2t4bWx3MTRxSWk0dHRIZ3xBQ3Jtc0ttOEF5SktMNFhyUXVXX05fSk5JVWZoOVlkb09KaTI2RXFkbU1WbUNmYnlCcG9SX2FQNGxEdUdFa1hpbnFlZXcwYmIwU1g1aG40SGplRmNqVlFpZU1fQXR2QWFZbU04V3Ffa1g1eXYtbmZPbkdrMjZfRQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Fuc%3Fexport%3Ddownload%26id%3D1E88gKW6LUk9BiwJCXl4f98vpU0XbP4dl&v=hXZ3UPy67gc
Best of luck with your upgrades :)
Does the Ender 3 V2 Display have to be flashed? I ask this because when I flashed the DWIN files, it no longer works, Just black. If this was a mistake, can it be flashed back to stock, and if so, how?
Hi Alan, Thank you for commenting. Creality has 4 different color display boards for the Ender 3 V2 and Neo series of printers. The link below will help you figure out which one you have so you can use the proper flash file. It could have also stopped working due to the mainboard flash being instructed to use a DWIN display vs the one you have so check that as well.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display
Best of luck with your mods :)
Hi sir, can I replace my cr10s motherboard and screen with this setup that you replaced in the video. If so what do I need other than ender 3 color display screen and motherboard ?
Hello friend, Yes, you can but the mounting points for the new board won't be in the same place as the original so you'll need to design and adaptor. The CR10S has the same type of stepper plugs so everything might just wire up the same way.
Another great video Victor! I've been subscribed and following your videos for a while. I've ordered the parts and will apply this to my own CR10S soon. My setup matches everything you've done to yours as of a year ago. I need to catch up, and apply this mod. Do you plan to make available the firmware source that matches this configuration at some point?
Also curious if it's best to move to the CR Touch when performing this upgrade? Thanks
Hello Brad, Thank you for your kind comments following my CR10S Pro V2 series of videos. The printer is a real work horse once it receives a few tweaks. The custom firmware for it should be included in the zipped folder that has all the STL files. If it's not there let me know so I can fix it.
Hi Brad, please link a picture of your hotend assembly so I can see what you mean about moving the CR-Touch. The stock BL-Touch that comes with the CR10S Pro V2 can be wired to the 4.2.7 control board.
@@vbared Sorry I wasn't clear in my question. I see in the video that either a BL or CR touch works in your setup. Do you reccomend using the CR touch?
@@smithrb Hi Brad, Thanks for clearing it up for me. I ordered the CR-Touch because I wasn't able to get the BL-Touch to work at all the way that Creality suggested to wire it. I noticed that the wire plug and colors on both the probes we're the same and decided to plug the BL-Touch in to test it. It seems to work just as well be I didn't mount and use it since I had already mounted the CR-Touch. Let me know if you decide to try it with the BL-Touch.
I have a spare V4.2.2 board would I be able to use that instead of the 4.2.7 board?
Hi Oscar, Thank you for commenting and "Yes" the Creality 4.2.2 board will also work as well.
Thank you for your respond but i went the other way and got a 4.2.2 board and flash it with a Ender3 Pro Klipper firmware and now i can not get the mesh right. Got the Cr10s Pro with V4.2.2 and a Sprite extruder. Any help will be highly appreciated!
forgot the mention the sonic pad
What problem are you having with the mesh? It won't make one or is it that the one it does make isn't accurate and the filament won't stick on certain parts of the bed?
i just installed that silent mother board on my old v1 cr10 no bltouch...would this firmware work?
Hi Miguel, Yeah, it should just be sure to configure it for no BL-Touch.
Hi Victor, I'm wondering why wouldn't just go for Klipper as you have on the Ender? You mentioned that you're waiting for prices to go down but you can actually run multiple printers on a single raspberry pi with KIAUH.
Love the videos, they're very in-depth and very comprehensive!
Hello MrMistahShadow, Thank you for your kindness. One of my UA-cam followers Brad recently donated a Raspberry Pi CM4 to help me get the Klipper video filmed and posted. I recently added a Micro Swiss NG but switched out the heat block and nozzle with one from an E3D V6. It prints beautifully and hasn't had any leaks. I've had so many issues with the Micro Swiss, MK8 all metal heat break to nozzle seals coming loose and resulting in messy leaks.
I'll post the CR10S Pro V2 Klipper video soon.
That's great to hear and nice of Brad to do that! If you do decide to get more printers and Raspberry Pis are still not in stock, it'd be more cost effective to run multiple instances of Klipper on the CM4 and connect your printers to that instead of using another SBC.
I just looked at the Micro Swiss NG and wow is that a lot of money for a direct drive system and all metal hotend that's twice over the amount I bought my 2nd hand CR10s Pro V2 for! The extremely tiny footprint looks very intriguing though and from the looks of it, is quite lightweight.
For my Ender 3 v2, I just went for a bimetal heatbreak and a custom direct drive mount w/ a pancake stepper for
@@MrMistahShadow Good morning, Yes, the NG is pricey. The design caught my attention as well. The thing has a tremendous amount of torque, very short and constrained filament path. I linked a video I made about it.
ua-cam.com/video/Ukx4Ahnw5as/v-deo.html
My Ender 3 V2s are running Klipper using their stock 4.2.2 control boards. The Ender 3 Pros and CR10S Pro V2 got the 4.2.7 upgrade so I could run Miguel's Professional Firmware or Klipper pretty easily on them.
Thank you for suggesting multiple instances of Klipper off one Pi. I came across a video of another content creator that shows how he runs Linux in a virtual box on Windows 10 machine. I may look into that to eliminate the Raspberry Pi lag. There is a program called Virtual Here that can turn a Raspberry into a wireless USB hub and connect all the printers to it.
@@vbared That's a fun idea you have in mind that I totally see myself doing for the fun of it.
Practically speaking though, the RPI4 (CM4 in your case) would be MORE than enough to handle at the very least 4 printers all at once provided you have enough RAM.
AFAIK, VirtualHere has a one device limit unless you go for their Pro version so that's another thing to keep in mind.
With that said, if you do go that route, I'll look forward to the video of it :)
hai sir, i have 4.2.2 motherboard.would you mind sharing firmware to 4.2.2 instead of 4.27?..thanks
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. I made this video on how to configure and compile a custom version of Miguel's Professional Firmware. The Ender 3 V2 display can be one of three different controllers so take the back cover off your display to see which one you have.
ua-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/v-deo.html
Do you make up these boards with the wiring done with the firmware done
Hi frenchy21, I haven't thought about putting a conversion kit together. Getting Miguel's Professional Firmware on the CR10S Pro V2 is what I was after but I've since upgraded the firmware to Mainsail Klipper and haven't looked back. It's so much faster and feature rich than any current Marlin based firmware.
Based on what I've learned from this upgrade I would today change a few things listed below from the parts I used in this video.
1 - Manta M5P+CB1 using TMC2209 stepper drivers - shrsl.com/4ezoa
2 - Heatsink for CB1 - shrsl.com/4ezog
Hi Victor. THANK YOU so much for doing all of this. This video has inspired me to make a 3D printer from a messed up CR10 that I got for 30$ online. It basically was only the frame and a few other components. I had a 4.2.7 board already so I found the cr10 pro v2 powers supply, the v2 screen like yours, BL touch and all the other components, all, except the ribbon cable as it is not easy to find and I think no need for it. I am going to flash this firmware on it in the next couple of days when I put everything together, and let you know how it goes. Please let me know if you have any thoughts on this. I hope it will work.
Hello Miloš, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in these videos for your viewing time. Restoring an old printer is an awesome project to embark on. You will learn more about 3D printers from building your own machine than just buying one off-the-shelf. Most prebuilt systems need some type of tinkering to get everything working properly anyway.
Instead of looking for the ribbon cable consider just purchasing long wires, crimp tools, connectors, a soldering kit, and heat shrink. That way you can minimize the total number of connections.
Let me know how it all goes together and if you run into any issues just ask, I might be able to save you some time.
Best of luck with your project and have a Happy New Year :)
Thanks a lot Victor! Happy new year! Sorry for replying just now, I did not get the notification when you replied. It actually worked! I am using an old ender 3 v2 Neo hotend with an upgraded copper nickel plated heatblock, and a bimetal heatbreak for CR6SE. I have designed and printed the mount for it that I think looks and works great. It’s magnetic and should fit on the Ender 3/pro/ V2/CR10 V1 gantry. It also has a dual gear extruder and a direct drive, and I was able to mount that because this third part gantry has an extension above and additional mount holes for the stepper and the extruder. I did put in a mosfet, but still takes long to heat up the bed. Maybe normal for the bed of this size. The BL touch is positioned at the same place (as close as I could get to it) as in the original CR10s Pro V2, (I found the original model on grabcad.com and compared to that when I designed mine). I have watched your video too many times 😂 so I think that I have the most of the answers so far, but there are some issues. I have wired everything in the traditional way, because no ribbon cable and no Daughter Board. The firmware seems to work fine, but the issue is that the BL touch pin does not retract on boot and after homing. It comes out, probes, but does not come back. I have to manually push it up. It can probe the bed and do the mesh. This ‘’glitch’’ might be due to 2 things: 1 - the probe is faulty; 2 - the firmware or the board is more compatible with CR touch that you are using. You don’t show booting in your video so I don’t know how it behaves in your case, maybe I should try how this works with the CR touch from my V2 Neo. For that reason I guess the screen reports that something is wrong with the probe. I am pretty sure I wired it correctly.
Actually it is wired totally opposite of what you did. Because the screen is blinking and it never boots when it is wired as you showed. The wire that is on the side where the QR code is on the probe, is plugged in G in the board, and the one that is on the opposite side is plugged in OUT. This seems to be the only way for this to work for me. I am confused. 😅
@@spiraboy Interesting, was the wiring difference you had with the probe cables, the main ribbon header plug or both?
@@vbaredI just tried with cr touch now. It is working perfectly. The conclusion is that my BL touch is faulty. Or it is good but there is some problem with the BL touch in general. The wire that is on the left when you look at the CR touch in the way that CREALITY logo is facing you, is plugged in OUT. I believe it is the same in your case.
Very cool. What cooling duct are you using? I'm currently using a Satsana on the Micro Swiss direct drive bracket on my Cr10s Pro, but I'm looking for something a little narrower. I like the way yours looks.
Hello J P, Thank you for your kind comment. Like you I was also looking for something compact but was unable to find what I was after so I designed my own using what I've learned through the years about 3D printing. I offer it as a digital download for $3.49 to help me support my channel included with the fan mount are efficient and compact blower ducts with LED ports and without plus no charge future updates. It fits both the Creality MK8 hotend and short Micro Swiss all metal. Make sure to watch my installation video below because fitting it on the CR10S Pro V1 and V2 requires a couple of things to make it work. If any questions come up just ask.
Installation video - ua-cam.com/video/V_3GLGS4bx8/v-deo.html
victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing?ToPasteBoard&
@@vbared Thanks for the quick response. I'm currently running the new Creality Spider v3 hotend, which is supposed to be a drop-in replacement for the Micro Swiss hotend. I was able to install it on the Satsana fairly easily, I just had to modify the cable routing channel since the new Spider hotend seems just a little bit wider. Does your cooling duct allow tolerance or is it pretty tight for the Micro Swiss hotend? If I can make it work with the new Spider, I'll buy it and install it today 😁. Thanks for all you do.
@@jsnpressley Hi J P, It appears to be wider than a standard MK8 hotend. I'll need to purchase one and modify the design to fit it. Thank you for letting me know about it. How does the Spider perform for you?
@@vbared I've only had a chance to run a couple of prints with it as I just got it a few days ago, but so far I'm pretty impressed. I'm running a 60W heater cartridge and it heats to 220c in about 30 seconds and remains fairly stable. Running the Tiny Machines firmware using Cura, I'm able to print PLA with great results at around 80mm/s with the 4mm nozzle. I'm going to be switching to the 8mm nozzle to better utilize the big build surface of the CR10s Pro though, so I'm not sure what speeds will be like after I do that. I also put one on my Ender 3 Pro which I'm going to be installing Klipper on, so I'm excited to see what kind of speeds I can push with that. The documentation says it can do 300mm/s, and I am pushing to achieve that or more. But so far I'm really impressed with the new Spider, it's a big improvement over the previous version in my opinion. I'm going to go ahead and purchase your current cooling duct anyway and see if I can get it to work, but if you are going to make a new Spider v3 specific version, that will be awesome. I love your videos because you have the same printers that I have, and you come up with great ideas to make them better. Thanks again 😁
@@jsnpressley Wow, 80mm/s is awesome considering the bed mass of the CR10S Pro. Klipper is amazing, you're going to love it, so many features and super easy to make changes without having to recompile anything. I appreciate your consideration in supporting my work through your purchase but I would hold off on the fan bracket until I make the changes to it. I'm almost positive it won't fit as is. Stay tuned, I'll make a video on a fan bracket for the Spider.
Hi Victor, I'm planning on upgrading my old cr10s with the 4.2.7 Mb and the new display, do you know if I can use the firmware you used aswell or do I need a different one?
Hi Martin, Thank you for commenting and great question. So long as you are using a bed probe, it should work just the same. Depending on the orientation of your y-axis stepper you might not need to reverse that motor. When doing your first homing keep you finger near the power button and cut off the printer if any of the axis move in the wrong direction, fix and try homing again.
I believe the CR10S bed is not as deep so you may need to change the physical size in menu after the flash.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thank you for your fast answer, really appreciate it
hello and thank you for your video, I am making this modification on my CR10S pro, can we use a second breakout board to simplify the wiring.
and sorry for the english i use google translate
I understand you perfectly. Yes, another subscriber did it the way you are suggesting. I would just double check the ports on the second board to confirm they match up to the first one.
the board you linked say ender 3 compatible NOT CR10s pro
Hello littlelee, Thank you for commenting. Yes, you are correct, The 4.2.7 board and Ender 3 V2 color display were designed as a direct replacement for the the Ender 3 printers but can be adapted to work with the CR10S Pro V2 using the method I describe in the video. It won't be plug and play because the CR10S Pro V2 uses that ribbon cable so you will need to make up an adapter plug to go from ribbon to the smaller plugs needed for the 4.2.7 control board. I chose this board because it's supported by Miguel's Professional Firmware that currently is the most feature filled and tweakable firmware other than a full blown Klipper system.
Best of luck with your mods :)
Hi Victor. Is it possible for you to send the source code for the .bin file so that I can adapt it myself to fit my printer, a standard cr10s
Hello Preben Hansen, Thank you for commenting. Sure thing, I linked the regular source zip file and special configurations versions as well if you want to play around with input shaping and linear advance.
Regular source code link - github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/archive/refs/heads/Ender3V2S1-Released.zip
Special configurations link - github.com/mriscoc/Special_Configurations/archive/refs/heads/main.zip
@vbared Hi Victor. Apologies for the very late response. Your links were very helpful, but being very new to Marlin there has been a lot of messing around and I never got the flat cable conversion to work. I switched to the SKR Mini E3V3 and replaced all the cables and it worked fine, but again a lot of mess around the Marlin. My only problem now is the stepper motors as described in my post from today.
I thought it was a very exciting and educational project and your videos are very educational.
Victor, followed along with this guide to get a broken CR10s Pro V2 up and running, went through all of the steps, double checked all of the connections and I can not get firmware to flash onto the main board. Any suggestions? The screen comes on and is just stuck on the Creality splash screen
Hello bcpdesigns, Thank you for commenting. Use the following link to determine which control board is in the display screen. The firmware I compiled is specifically for the DWIN display. If you've confirmed that you have a DWIN display then try a different SD, format it as fat32 with 4096 allocation, rename the firmware file to e3dfirmware.bin, load it on the SD card and try again. If it turns out that your display isn't DWIN then tell me which one you have any I'll compile a new one for you.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
@@vbared As it turns out I ended up with a TJC display. So I have a 4.2.7 board, BL Touch, and a TJC screen, any other parts are the stock CR10S Pro V2. If you would be willing to help me compile the correct firmware that would be awesome. I am planning to measure and model a drawer to fit the old screen hole within the next week and I will make sure to share that file here with you.
@@bigsmoke-m8o Here you go Kristopher, double check the configurator image in the zip file to make sure everything matches up with what you have before flashing - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1JJPb2e7t93F6nMQsoBme_Ey1MeQ-2Qc3
A little drawer would be great, enjoy the mod!
@@vbared well, i am still stuck on the creality splash screen, i am going to go to microcenter in the next few days and try to find another 8gb class 10 micro sd and see if that helps? I followed the steps on the links for the TJC fixes and when i have the sd card in the back of the screen it shows that it is updating and that it was successful. But again when trying to flash the main board I am still just stuck on the creality splash screen
@@bigsmoke-m8o You could try to unplug everything except the display and power to the board and try the flash again just to make sure that it's not something else. Another thing to check is that the display ribbon cable should have the brown trace inline with the rear metal pegs.
Hi, thanks for the video. Would Tmc2225 be the same or should I get the tmc2208? Thanks in advance
Hi Joe, Thanks for commenting. The 2225 and 2208s are very similar. If you have a board with either the performance difference is hard to distinguish. I have Creality boards with both and I can't see or hear a difference while printing.
The 2225 chips are a little bigger than the 2208s and run a bit cooler since they are designed to drive a little higher-voltage stepper motor but really that's about it.
Ok great thank you for your response. Can I use the stock cr10 lcd display or will I have to upgrade like you. Thank you
@@joechamberlain3710 Hi Joe, Unfortunately the stock touchscreen isn't compatible since it uses a proprietary source code.
Enjoy your weekend :)
Thank you! Ah I see, I’ve found a ender 3 max v2 neo display. It looks identical. Would that be that be the same display?
How did you get the screws to fit the mount for the screen on the side
I put the mount on the spot where I wanted it and marked it, then used a center punch to create a divet, drilled the holes slightly smaller than the tap and tapped them.
@@vbared ahhh okay thank you, I got everything up and running just needed to mount the screen thank you for this tutorial!
@@Midnxxght Your most welcome, Midnxxght, great job completing this mod. Now you have total control of your printer.
Have fun printing :)
This video has me thinking I could possibly do this upgrade using a SKR E3 Mini V3. It has the same footprint as the Creality 4.2.x board. It gets me the controllable fan ports as well as the quiet stepper drivers and ability to have better control in Klipper. Im not handy with wiring so my biggest problem would be to make the 30 pin connector. What did you do to connect the pins from the 30 pin connector to the wires in the motherboard connectors?
Hello Tha Bizness, Thank you for commenting. An SKR E3 Mini V3 would be great replacement for the stock 8-bit green board. I used a female 30pin connector, soldered the stepper motor ribbon, heater cartridge, thermistor, x end stop, filament sensor, heatsink and parts cooling fan cables to it. The video details has a wiring diagram to help you. Just take your time and before you know it the job will be done. Once all the wires were soldered to the female 30-pin plug I added the standard jst connectors and plugs to connect to the new board.
@@vbared Ah you soldered the cables to the connector. I have only used a soldering iron to weld 3d parts together. Guess its time to learn how to do connections. I was thinking of using single dupont connectors on the back of the 30pin connector to make the connections. Do you think that would work or would soldering be the optimal way?
@@K1Timelapses You could use Dupont connectors just make sure to hot glue everything to ensure the wires stay in place. Soldering makes these connections permanent. Let me know if you want me to make a video on soldering basics to help demystify the process and help build your confidence to take on the task.
@@vbared Sure! I'm going to make upgrading my CR10s Pro V2 my weekend project but I would definitely watch it. I would like to build a R2 which would require soldering at some point so I need to acquire the skill! Thanks in advance.
@@vbared I received the connectors. I dont think the dupont connectors will work and will have to go with soldering. What size wire did you use for the red and black hot end wires? How did you get the solder to go cleanly in the small connector pins? What's the trick?
I was wondering if anyone had the files this using a 4.2.2 board
Hi Derek, Which display do you have? Linked below are the instructions to help you determine it.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
Hi and thanks for the reply. I already have an ender 3 v2 running MRiscoC and have a spare 4.2.2 board. I also have a cr10s pro v2 that I got off ebay as "for spares or repair". I have just ordered a display from China but don`t know the make as of yet. @@vbared
hey nice video, can you link me the x tensioner you're using please? thanks!
Hi Bruno, Thank you for your kind comment. Linked below is what you are looking for.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4752875
Best of luck with your mods!
Do you have a discord? I'd love to join a forum where I can get help with my printer from reliable people and sources. It's been a nightmare just getting basic parts but now I have to replace stuff on my printer that was vandalized when my house was robbed and it's been a struggle
Dang, sorry to hear about the robbery. Give me a call 478-227-3301 so I can help you sort things out.
will thios work wither 10 s pro V1
Hello, I would think, yes, since I believe the difference is the induction probe instead of BL-Touch.
Is there a way to contact you privately?
Sure, please give me a call at 478-227-3301 or email vbared@gmail.com
As you can imagine posting my phone number results in every telemarketer trying to reach me. I screen all calls that aren't on my contact list so please leave me a message, I'll you right back and add you to my contact list so I'll know when it's you calling the next time.