I just put the Micro Swiss Direct Drive with the Hot End and BL Touch onto my 10S Pro V1 and the result was awesome. I also loaded in Tiny Machines updated Firmware. The whole process was pretty easy, and the result is like a new Printer. I already added the Z Axis belt and Max Z struts so It is a solid machine and all this makes it even more solid. Very happy wit results. Thank You for posting and helping us make good decisions.
Thank you. Very helpful. Please provide a link to the tiny machines multi firmware mentioned. Perhaps create a video just on updating the firmware after adding the micro swiss direct extruder and all metal hot end combination. Thanks again for this useful information. Cheers!
I'm saving this for my next mod! I had a bowden tube end melt into my extruder and plug up the head last night, 33 hours into a 35 hour print! FML! The annoyingly finicky PETL filament needs such ridiculously high temperatures that a factory-supplied bowden tube can't tolerate, despite the Anet people supplying this crap material for a printer that's designed to go beyond the tube's temperature limits.
Thanks for the informative video. I am considering doing this to my Cr10 S Pro v2 have you had any experience with the "Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 V2" I can't find any reason to use one over the other. Do you have any input on it? Thanks!
brilliant video, thanks. I am intrigued with the carbon fiber build plate. What are your reasons for choosing it? and what materials etc do you use with it? Sorry, just checked your other videos and watched the one on this build plate, great work.
Hello, I have the CR 10S PRO (V1) printer. Can I do this improvement just like you did in the video? Or I can't do it on the CR 10S PRO (V1). ? I look forward to your response, thank you.
I have a CR-10S Pro V1 but i put a BL touch on it long time ago. I had to 3d print the bracket. It still works but i like the direction that one mounted. I just had to change out my bl touch. I had to pull off everything on the x axis to get the screws out of the back before i could lift my bltouch out. any chance they sell that bracket? i bet that would fit my pro
I'm guessing by sight the correct STL is in Thingi under the title - Satsana Ender 3 Microswiss Direct Drive - 4020 blower fan remix. (by jjbp) There's a few models in that pack for the different MS 4/5 fin versions as well as BLT. What I would like to know or have seen in the video as well would be the X range and if there was a reduction on the width using this shroud. Guess I'll just have to try myself, as I've got a MSDD/All Metal 4 Fin pack coming for my CR10s Pro V2. If there are limits I'll just go with the standard MS shroud on thingi.
Jesus am I the only person that owns a cr-10s pro V1? I want to mount this direct drive as well but have been looking for over a god damn year for a damn fan shroud!!!@ Is there any chance we can get a video and fan shroud for a V1? The V1 has been out for a shit ton longer than the V2 and yet there is no inductive sensor and fan shroud for the direct-drive and hot end that I have been sitting on for more than a year now!!!
Awesome video. Do you perhaps have a profile for Prusa Slicer on the CR-10S Pro V2 Direct drive. Struggling to get it fine tuned. Would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Awsome guide. Thank you! One question. Are you using the 4 finned cooling block or the 5 finned? I ordered the complete package including the all metal hotend from Micro Swiss and it came with the 4 finned cooling block.
Hi There. Great video thanks for that. Unfortunately, I have bought a micro swiss hot end, but it doesn't come with all the items in your product. do you need the Z axis plate and extruder, or can I use the existing. I do realize that the hot end, when installed, is too short, i.e the fan duct hits the build plate long before the nozzle reaches it's 0.2mm height. Any suggestions. Many thanks. Peter
curious if anyone else has the weird sound issue with CR10s Pro tinymachines firmware? piano sounds, singing choral sounds, instead of dial tone beeps....
Awesome video! Just upgraded my 2 CR-10 Maxes with this. I'm running into an issue printing on the far side of the bed away from the filament sensor. The filament keeps getting stuck on the sensor now and causing missed layers on everything printed on the right side of the bed. Anyone have a good fix for this?
Hi, I'm about to do this upgrade as well for my new CR-10 max. Did you have a link for the 3d printed adaptors you used, and firmware? Was there much of an offset for the BL touch?
One thing I can tell you is, that from "youtubers" I'm following, just you and Chris Riley are using proper hex drivers when assembling and disassembling. The rest use them el-cheapo allen keys. It's just painful to watch them.. 😅
Why no link for the shroud in the description ?
I just put the Micro Swiss Direct Drive with the Hot End and BL Touch onto my 10S Pro V1 and the result was awesome. I also loaded in Tiny Machines updated Firmware. The whole process was pretty easy, and the result is like a new Printer. I already added the Z Axis belt and Max Z struts so It is a solid machine and all this makes it even more solid. Very happy wit results. Thank You for posting and helping us make good decisions.
I don't have BL Touch and I use Octoprint. Do I still have to update the firmware? Is there an in-depth flashing tutorial you'd recommend?
Finally a proper video on how to install the Micro Swiss DD.
Thanks guys!
Not seeing the thingiverse link...
This video is brilliant. I have just updated my printer with no issues. Thanks a lot 👍
Where is the STL for that Fab duct. I think I want to try two nozzles for better part colling but I can't find any pointers to it. Dennis
Thank you. Very helpful. Please provide a link to the tiny machines multi firmware mentioned. Perhaps create a video just on updating the firmware after adding the micro swiss direct extruder and all metal hot end combination. Thanks again for this useful information. Cheers!
So I printed the satsana that you linked and it seems to be a different one. It mounts so the ducts are lower and bl you h are lower then the nozzle.
I'm saving this for my next mod! I had a bowden tube end melt into my extruder and plug up the head last night, 33 hours into a 35 hour print! FML!
The annoyingly finicky PETL filament needs such ridiculously high temperatures that a factory-supplied bowden tube can't tolerate, despite the Anet people supplying this crap material for a printer that's designed to go beyond the tube's temperature limits.
What File did you use for the fan shroud? having an issue finding one
Thanks for the informative video. I am considering doing this to my Cr10 S Pro v2 have you had any experience with the "Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 V2" I can't find any reason to use one over the other. Do you have any input on it? Thanks!
I dont even have mine yet and I want to watch the whole thing
Where is the link??
hello where do i get the firmware and what is the best firmeware today? -- scrolled through tiny machines pages but everthing was vage and confusing
the set screw rolled off the back of the print bed. re-watch at 26:`14ish you can see it roll away
Did not see the link for the Santsana print
brilliant video, thanks. I am intrigued with the carbon fiber build plate. What are your reasons for choosing it? and what materials etc do you use with it? Sorry, just checked your other videos and watched the one on this build plate, great work.
Hello, I have the CR 10S PRO (V1) printer. Can I do this improvement just like you did in the video? Or I can't do it on the CR 10S PRO (V1). ? I look forward to your response, thank you.
where to find the download link for the firmwares
What fan shroud was used on this?
Where's the link to the shroud you mentioned in the beginning on Thingiverse?
I have a CR-10S Pro V1 but i put a BL touch on it long time ago. I had to 3d print the bracket. It still works but i like the direction that one mounted. I just had to change out my bl touch. I had to pull off everything on the x axis to get the screws out of the back before i could lift my bltouch out. any chance they sell that bracket? i bet that would fit my pro
I'm guessing by sight the correct STL is in Thingi under the title - Satsana Ender 3 Microswiss Direct Drive - 4020 blower fan remix. (by jjbp)
There's a few models in that pack for the different MS 4/5 fin versions as well as BLT.
What I would like to know or have seen in the video as well would be the X range and if there was a reduction on the width using this shroud.
Guess I'll just have to try myself, as I've got a MSDD/All Metal 4 Fin pack coming for my CR10s Pro V2.
If there are limits I'll just go with the standard MS shroud on thingi.
Satsana stl link for the one used here? There are several on Thingiverse
Jesus am I the only person that owns a cr-10s pro V1? I want to mount this direct drive as well but have been looking for over a god damn year for a damn fan shroud!!!@
Is there any chance we can get a video and fan shroud for a V1? The V1 has been out for a shit ton longer than the V2 and yet there is no inductive sensor and fan shroud for the direct-drive and hot end that I have been sitting on for more than a year now!!!
What is the STL file for the 3-D printed cover ?
How many times can ya hear "what I like to do" in 55 minutes....... ALOT 😂
Awesome video. Do you perhaps have a profile for Prusa Slicer on the CR-10S Pro V2 Direct drive. Struggling to get it fine tuned. Would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Awsome guide. Thank you!
One question. Are you using the 4 finned cooling block or the 5 finned? I ordered the complete package including the all metal hotend from Micro Swiss and it came with the 4 finned cooling block.
Can you please show on a print sample what is the difference between the original 10s pro and with the microswiss DD?
Hi There. Great video thanks for that.
Unfortunately, I have bought a micro swiss hot end, but it doesn't come with all the items in your product. do you need the Z axis plate and extruder, or can I use the existing. I do realize that the hot end, when installed, is too short, i.e the fan duct hits the build plate long before the nozzle reaches it's 0.2mm height. Any suggestions.
Many thanks. Peter
Bạn có thể chỉ giúp tôi cách chỉnh phần Probe Offset cho trục X và Y của máy in Cr-10 Max được không.? Xin cảm ơn nhiều.!
Is it necessary to flash the firmware after, or is it only to allow for higher nozzle temperatures?
Save the hot end as a back up. Trust me they most likely will come in handy
File link for the housing unit ?
Firmware source code link please.
Would I be able to do this on a CR10 Smart Pro?
I did this all and when I start a print it’s pretty far to the right. Any idea why?
this printer is not capable of printing nylon without making the changes?
No link for the shroud ?
curious if anyone else has the weird sound issue with CR10s Pro tinymachines firmware? piano sounds, singing choral sounds, instead of dial tone beeps....
where do i find the prob and fan holder stl . i need to print one so that i can complete my upgrade
Hi, can this be done on the CR-X Pro? It's a dual filament but I only ever use one.
Where did you get the filament runout sensor extension cable from?
i wanna know where you got that desk outlet i need that in my life
Hi,have a question is heatsink is out of box? or did u have to buy is a seperate compatible to this model?
Can you point me where to download the firmware to edit and update?
Can I confirm a link to who you are using for the Creality drivers
did you ever find these files this guy is referring to ??? I cant
Will this work with the cr10 pro max? I’m getting pissed off at this thing cause I bought a all metal hotend but it’s for the Enders
WHAT ROTATION DISTANCE ARE YOU USING?
I like how you pulled that sheathing off. Nuckles up ftw. lol jk. Hudy hex wrenches? or protek?
I had nothing but problems with the micro Swiss hot end manny failed prints at 2 mm retraction
I have everything installed and it works, but how do I fix the auto leveling? The probe goes off the printbed
I guess I need to update my firmware, where do I get the Tiny Machines firmware for it?
Where is the fan shroud located?
Awesome video! Just upgraded my 2 CR-10 Maxes with this. I'm running into an issue printing on the far side of the bed away from the filament sensor. The filament keeps getting stuck on the sensor now and causing missed layers on everything printed on the right side of the bed. Anyone have a good fix for this?
Hi, I'm about to do this upgrade as well for my new CR-10 max. Did you have a link for the 3d printed adaptors you used, and firmware? Was there much of an offset for the BL touch?
Do you have a stl file for the cap holding the blt touch?
What is the fan shroud?
What size t nuts ?
One thing I can tell you is, that from "youtubers" I'm following, just you and Chris Riley are using proper hex drivers when assembling and disassembling. The rest use them el-cheapo allen keys. It's just painful to watch them.. 😅
Stl support ventilation svp
Gosh darn it i should have printed the fanhouse before dismantling the whole thing xD ;(
Did anyone find the correct STL file?
how much of the z axis do you lose?
o%
dude does everything right cuts all the bs and talking and just goes wish all tutorials would take notes from this
PJ Help lol pm please!
what fan duct was used? i dont see a link
is there a swiss all metal direct drive dual gear drive for the Cr 10s Pro V2 that you dont have to modify to fit?