Creality Cr10S PRO upgrades - Noctua fans install and more
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- Опубліковано 27 бер 2019
- Your 3D printer is too loud? Cooling fans are too noisy?This video is step by step tutorial how to as simply as possible, replace and upgrade stock cooling fans on the Creality Cr10S PRO 3D printer with silent premium Noctua fans. This cooling fan upgrade lower the noise level by 17DB which is awesome! Beside cooling fans upgrade I inspect other 3D printer components under thermal camera and make some modification to the solid state relay to avoid thermal problems in the future.
Tools and parts in the video:
Get Noctua fans from:
Amazon:
Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX-- amzn.to/2Fy1Pz3
Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM -- amzn.to/2uxL7ec
Ebay:
Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX -- ebay.us/i9e1UR
Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM -- ebay.us/8GqhkM
3m Scotchlok connectors (wire soldering free joiner)
From ebay -- ebay.us/otrU9b
From Amazon -- amzn.to/2FAN3HP
Thermal camera - bit.ly/2DPKODk
Soldering Iron -- bit.ly/3h6msmZ
40x40x10mm Fan adapter- bit.ly/2V5voRD
T sliding Nut M4 for 2020 extrusions:
Banggood - bit.ly/3bP2qLN
Amazon - amzn.to/2Sf2QmP
Get your Creality CR10S PRO 3D printer from:
Banggood:
Creality CR10S PRO -- bit.ly/2WtsoP7
Aliexpress
Creality CR10S PRO -- bit.ly/3jaycXA
Amazon:
Creality CR10S PRO -- amzn.to/2VO2Ytx
Popular Online retailers:
Amazon.com - amzn.to/3k08g0K
Amazon.ca - amzn.to/3c3efiJ
Amazon.de - amzn.to/3rnvj9l
Amazon.co.uk - amzn.to/3blB2qY
Amazon.se - amzn.to/3bhU55l
Aliexpress - bit.ly/2GWF50w
Banggood - bit.ly/2T0R8fG
Ebay - ebay.us/OJuoTs
CR10S PRO S3D printing profile - goo.gl/Cq7FLL
Make your prints stick to the bed:
PrintaStick adhesion stick -- goo.gl/UQLuX4
If you need cheap filament for your 3D printer check links below:
PLA filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K6U99U
On Banggood - bit.ly/2pZSiwK
PETG filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/36RHEsz
on Aliexpress - bit.ly/3h8AYLa
ABS Filament for 3D printer
On Amazon - amzn.to/2K5S4LH
On Banggood - bit.ly/2CurLuc
Gear that I use for my videos:
www.nexi-tech.com/gear-that-i-...
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Best Regards!
Nexi - Наука та технологія
Wow - brilliant idea to move the relay onto the aluminum extrusion and have it act as a heat sink! Excellent video, thank you!
You welcome mate! Thanks for your positive comment :)
@@NexiTech Creality must been watching my newer CR10S pro had a heat sink underneath the SSR.
@@ImaginationToForm Same for mine purchased in August.
Nexi Tech can you please tell me what nut that is i can not find it
@@36216 it's a type of t nut I hope that helps
This video is absolutely amazing, Nexi! Congratulations! A true step-by-step tutorial, from the problem through the process all the way to the resolution -- a must watch! Cheers!
Great catch on the solid state relay! Nice to see decent checks on voltage etc after the mods, as well.
Thank you for your well illustrated and informative videos on the CR10S Pro.
They've made my printer more bearable to use. As well as making a good printer even better!
The z axis droop issue was driving me crazy.
The anti backlash nuts and adjusting the rollers really did make a huge difference.
Many thanks again.
Keep up the great work!
Thank you for making this video!!! Even though it's many years old, I followed your instructions to replace all fans in my CR10S PRO V2. And it's SO much better! SO quiet! Thank you!
You welcome my friend! I'm glad that it worked well for you too. Have a great day and good luck with the 3D printing.
Great idea on moving relay. I did this today on my CR10 S Pro. Thank you for sharing this great idea.
Just ordered the printer and will do the upgrades right away!
Thanks for explaining every detail as I have 0 clue how to connect wires :)
Your 10s-pro videos are the best I have seen. I know if I get one there could be some initial leveling tuning but other than that these videos give me a lot of hope.
You're a genuis man, and your explainations a so clear and simple, thank you so much!
Thank you so much! You are awesome! I am brand new to 3d printing and I love your fantastic videos! So helpful and easy to follow for a beginner like me! These new fans are SO QUIET! The power supply fan is so quiet at first I thought it wasnt even working! Thanks!
Absolutely gorgeous! Did a minute ago and it is was so easy with your help! Appreciate it!
very cool, love the idea of relocating that relay to the extrusion!
Great walkthrough and I love your narative voice very percise and to the point. Great work and you got me as a subscriber! Do more on CR-10S Pro please!
I am not one to comment to UA-cam video's However, it is rare to find a video that is so well produced, concise, and to the point. Loaded with excellent information, and tips on how to make your printer better. Thank You, and Well Done !!!
Works Great !
thanks a million for this tutorial.
Printer is much quiter so I´m now at peace with my wife AND I can now print 24/7 !!
Excellent set of upgrade videos...
First mod I made to my CR10 was to change the power supply fan for a Noctua... money well spent....
Excellent idea in moving the relay, actually a better idea than changing the fans. You have just extended the life of the relay and eliminated a potential premature failure. The noise reduction is however amazing. Great video, thanks.
Nexi, many thanks for this tutorial, i did it firs day as I receive my creality, very helpfull, keep the high quality of your videos, and quality test`s
Subbed. I don't even have a printer yet, but I can already see I will be back to this channel
Thanks for all the upgrade tips. I've been implementing them based on your videos.
You welcome Daniel, I'm glad that I helped.
Thank you very much for this awesome guide!
It seems like even Creality learned something from this video.
My version of the CR 10S Pro came with a heat sink attached to the solid state relay!
Thank you for sharing!
mine too! :)
Shame they didn’t learn and put quieter fans in, there so annoying
straight 🏹 and to the point. as always quality video + quality production. thanks so much for sharing your findings.
cheers 🍻
this was an exceptionally educational and informative video. Neat job !
Top 10 most comprehensive step by step video I've ever seen... hats off!!
Keep up the good work...
Thank you very much.
Now you didn’t just teach us how to quiet the fans on a 3D printer you gave us a class about electrical heat transfer from power supply thru wire to source WoW what a mouth full you did it all and I Thank You for teaching me all this!!Thank You
It was my pleasure Agustain! I'm so glad you liked my video and found it useful. Wish you all the best! Nexi
This is a very well made video with clear instructions. Thank you.
Your move with the solid state relay is a master move sir!!
Thank you sir.
AMAZING!!! BRILLIANT! LOVE YOUR WORK! thank you so much.
Very clear Sir !
Thanks for this great job I wish all tutorial were that clear !
Great upgrades, I followed these steps to the t.... nuts. Very good.
I am considering getting a 3d printer and I am researching which I want. This is how I found your channel. This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for, and wanted to thank you for it. Considering that your channel is not huge yet you may get some encouragement in the impact your recommendations seem to be having. A quick amazon search for this probe shows that in the "frequently purchased together" section: the new probe, the Z axis locking nuts, and noctua fans. I think I am going to get the CR10s Pro because it seems to have a lot of options and community support. It seems this printer has its issues but they are easily remedied and will only get better over time.
i am the same
excellent video I will be getting one of these printers very soon and plan to do these mods to it straight away such an informative and clear video
Thanks a lot for the video, I just did the same upgrade, it works great!
Easy to do thanks to your instructions, great job!
Addition: silencing gear has one downside: now you notice which remaining parts are loud!
For my printer it is the fan next to the extruder. It appears to be the same as the 24V 40x10 cooling the motherboard.
Has anyone replaced this? Any tips which upgrade would fit?
Thanks a million Nexi, spot on instructions made this a snap. Your review's of these printers sold me on my 10s and now the Pro. This is night and day better, although I'm wanting to get rid of the heatsink fan but not sure what options i have there yet. Thanks again for taking the time to make these. Oh and by the way got my 10s Pro this week and they have implemented the heatsink on the relay now :)
Brilliant, thanks a lot for all these useful information. The relay relocation is genius ! :)
Thank you so much for your positive comment! :) I'm glad to have you here!
Amazing work man! Thank you so much. I can't believe the difference that made on the relay moving it to the extrusion, brilliant! Also, series fan wiring, so much safer than cheap buck converters, which I've heard of them melting and starting fires! Yikes!
Thanks man! Well, there is a a lot of aluminum in the case. Biggest heat sink you can image :) Yes you are right! People don't seems to realize simplicity and safe using series connections with fans instead of buck converters.
Cheap buck converters are not that great. You have to be very careful with them. First of all you can easy short them as they don't have any insulation or a case and soldered wire usually stick a bit from bottom side of a converter so you can easily short it with the printer case, also people use cheap double side tape that can came off after short period of time and converter can fall down and short out with the printer case.
Not to mention that there is a a lot of scams with fake chips and mosfets which gets hot and burn out after some time in use...
Using fans is series are best, simplest and safest solution for me personally for this kind of application and if you decide to use buck converters I would to recommend to use thick Heat-shrink and real thick 3M tape and monitor these converters for some time with thermal camera to see how hot they get just to be sure.
BTW here is test of fans in series if one fan stop or both drive.google.com/file/d/1pavqzmGzrjlQ5kKCVZLj_cAb__w-HVhf/view
I'm surprised they used a solid state relay in a device of this price level, it probably is a large chunk of the BOM.
@@NexiTech Dude, why haven't been keeping the simple two fans in serie with 11.something volts and 12.4... or near.. it was just ok.. nothing would have been bad ;-)
these little guys can handle this eyes closed
Thanks for this video ! Really nice job !
The original power supply fan (NMB 04020VA-12P-AA) is rated for 11.3 CFM but the Noctua is only 5.7 CFM.
Half the air flow = less noise but also much higher temperatures. Keep this in mind before "upgrading".
I agree with this. I'd love to see a temperature controlled variable fan instead. No need to run full speed unless the temps warrant it.
@@jontanneguy4960 Anyone have any fans that you could suggest with same air flow but not as noisy?
How about just lowering the RPM by using step down converter? I also think about running fans all the time after reducing the RPM. It is easier to keep temperature low than reduce it after it has risen.
Thanks for the Video and tips - most helpful. FWIW I have the gear to accurately measure air flows from fans and found its much worse than this. I measured the Noctua only producing 3.5CFM while the NMB was 15 CFM . As Nexi Tech says the lower air flow of the Noctua is no problem for general full load use but as I often run my printer in a heated enclosure I'm not prepare to compromise on cooling so I didn't upgrade. I found the heated enclosure knocked out most of the fan noise so now I leave it permanently in the enclosure.
Great my friend!!!
Very excellent video!!
Keep up the good work.
this was awesome!! thanks so much my friend!
Once again, thank you for such a detailed video. I just completed my Noctua fan install!
One thing I'd mention that I had difficulty with was the scotch-lock connectors. They sometimes didn't make connection (the PSU fan was that way, and I failed to check continuity before I put the PSU box back together), and the smaller gauge fan wires seemed to very easily pull out of them. I wound up having to delete them entirely and opted to solder my connections instead. After that I never had any continuity issues.
Could be that I've never used the scotch-locks before, but they seemed pretty simple...just didn't do right by me.
This is how is done. Very impressed by your simplicity. Actually excellent, no need for the f**k converter.
Excellent video with good English enunciation!
Thanks for your detail explanation !!
Very cool Nexi... I will also change the hotend cooler ... Thanks for the great videos. Greets from Germany. Daniel
Check your E-mail :)
Great Work, Thanks for this Video.
Very nice, love these upgrades!
Thank you :)
I love you so much, any vidoe u do, it's just so helpful!!!
You are like Mc Gyver 🤣♥️
Thanks for this incredibly helpful video
I am very impressed!! Super well done!
Thank you!
Awesome video! Thanks for the help!
Glad you like it ;)
Hi Nexi, I purchased my CR-10S pro two weeks ago. I performed the fan upgrade you mentioned here. I found that in my CR-10S Pro, there was now a heatsink (actual heatsink, with cooling ribs) mounted under the SSR. Looks like Creality saw your video too :) . Thanks for your clear explanation. Happy printing!
Same here. Mine has a large aluminum heat sink on it.
Can you please post a photo with the heatsink in order to see it? I am sending email to creality about that but noone replies what heatsink to purchase.
@@underourrock Can you please post a photo with the heatsink in order to see it? I am sending email to creality about that but noone replies what heatsink to purchase.
@@ThomasKardaridis I'm not going to be able to take a picture of it for quite some time, but I believe a video from this summer showed it. If I come across that video, I'll look to it for you.
Thank you very much for this detailed and good explanation.
- I installed three 40x20mm Noctua fans NF-A4x20 PWM, Premium Quite Fan 4 pin.
-I printed CR10s pro 40x40x20mm Fan Mount (You can find from net)
-Each fan is identical and your method of using serial connection worked perfect.
-Power supply fan is not worked initially. After I understand that it is working then the system is on load.
-I used silicone straps that come with the fans while connecting the power supply fan.
-Final results measured from: back fan exhaust Before: 70db after 55db
Good Job...
Awesome! Glad that worked for you. Thank you for your comment. Cheers! :)
Great Work, huge help! Thumbs Up!!!
What a great video!
Cool video. I'm a fan.
Thanks. Awesome work!
Very nice. I already replaced all my fans based on the video by nerys, but I will move the solid state relay as you showed. The only loud fan left is the part cooling fan. I haven’t found a good replacement for it yet.
Great job! Useful and interesting. Best regards from France 🇫🇷
Thank you! Glad you like it :) Best regards from Sweden.
Thanks for the video, I thought I'd just update this with the fact creality now put an aluminium heat sink on the heat bed solid state relay so you no longer have to relocate it. Cheers.
That's true. I just checked that on mine
Got done doing this conversion. Worked great! I'd recommend not making the mistake I made and recommend printing the fan adaptor _before_ starting. I had to swap out some screws where the stock ones did not work well but most things went according to plan.It is more quiet during normal use but where there is a BIG difference is when the power supply fan kicks on. To be honest, it does not get much louder... which is a big improvement. Thank you for the video!
Hello about the power supply fan, is it normal if it's launching later after mother board fan and the case fan ? The 2 fans on series work perfectly but the power fan doesn't seems to work yet at the beginning.
@@madjet.jetski
The power supply fan only starts when the temperature is too high. But the 2 others start at the very beginning, no matter the température.
@@nlg5978 Indeed, i made the fans upgrade and i realised this had no critical heat influence about it. Thanks :)
Super good video. Thanks alot!
Excellent VIdeo! Just an FYI, the new versions of CR10S - Pro come with a big heatsink on the relay so you don't have to move it now. =)
really nice! i want more of those ugrade videos :) perrfect job
Glad you like it my friend!
I used some filter material over the vent holes and some light sponge on the fan mounts and it is nearly silent, and it keeps the dirt out.
I have a laser cutter and even though it is vented it produces some smoke, also I spray paint stuff that goes everywhere! (I'm working on this).
I made an enclosure for the CR10 pro as it is very cold in my garage, with the door shut I cannot tell if the printer is working unless I look at it 👍
This also makes a great hand warmer. 🙌👌
Great job and keep it up
I love my Cr10sPro :) much better than my old Ultimaker 2
This also works for the Cr10s pro v2. I just did this and everything seems fine. The head bed solid state relay is by the way a much smaller one on the cr10s pro v2 but I don’t know if it gets as hot as the other one. Thanks for the awesome video :)
That's awesome Chris! Thank you for your comment. I'm glad that my video helped you. Cheers!
Great video👍
I like your videos and your explanations are very good. I would suggest on this video that when using lower CFM fans that you consider just using twice as many fans. There is room to add a second fan to blow hot air out of the case right next to the fan that is there. Just drill a fan hole next to it and some mounting holes. That provides two identical fans that can both get 12v each from a 24v source. There is a slight challenge to figure out how to add a second fan, but with all the heat coming from the solid state relay, that is where I would add a fan identical to the power supply fan to keep that relay even cooler. So twice as many fans, but now you have 2 pairs of identical fans so you won't need the low noise adapter which is just slowing that other fan down. You'll get about 3 to 6db more noise from the fans if even that much. If you want to reduce the noise even further, a piece of Dynamat added to flat metal surfaces will have absorb those unwanted vibrations and prevent them from being transmitted to the air as sound. Large flat metal surfaces act somewhat like a speaker helping to distribute the sound. Dynamat acts like a mute for that effect.
If / when the price is the best I can find, I am strongly considering the CR-10S Pro especially after seeing your upgrade videos. Thank you for sharing and putting all the effort into the videos you did. I hope you will consider adding 2 more fans and improve the controller cooling even further.
Please don't take any of my comments as criticism. To me it is only discussion of what I have seen. Overall this was a fantastic video and I wish more videos were as good as yours have been from what I've seen.
Very professionally presented video. I liked you Heat camera and thought to myself... I wonder if he's put a link to it in the info tab... and you did!!! Love your work!🇦🇺😎👊🏻🍀🤓
Creality should hire you.
Great video! Thank you. I'd wondered about connecting the two 24v fans in series instead of using the buck converters. I will be using the fans I bought from TH3D to see if I can get similar results, dB wise.
I am an electrician and I never even though about the series connection. Great job man!
Thank you so much! BTW here is short video test of fans in series that I made right now for one guy in comment section. If one fan stops for example etc.. Check it here:
drive.google.com/open?id=1pavqzmGzrjlQ5kKCVZLj_cAb__w-HVhf
@@NexiTech Nice! Thanks.
@@NexiTech That test demonstrates what happens when one fan is blocked or jammed. (There is still a magnetic field and there is still internal resistance in the windings, but as you saw the voltage of the other fan goes up a little bit.) It does not show what happens when one fan is shorted out completely (Example: when the windings get shorted, the internal resistance of the fan drops, the current goes up, and the other fan speeds up until it burns out which happens sooner rather than later). It also does not show what happens when one fan has an open circuit (Example: open fault in the windings). In that condition both fans stop because they are in series. Neither condition is dire enough to say that they shouldn't be in series, but anyone attempting this mod needs to understand what they are doing and understand how it might fail so they can keep an eye on what to watch out for.
Two fans in series not a great idea. Just be aware that if a fan fails it will probably take out the other. This is why you will not see fans in series in production. You were on right road with 24 to 12 adapters. I used to design and build test equipment for a living. There is no safety concern though.
@@jdozet if a single fan fails then there is no fan. So the key to using two fans in series:. Double the fans at a location:. I'll use two fans at the rear in series and two fans at the control board one aiming at the control board and the other aiming at the DC relay. (I'm working on making a dual fan bracket as I get time.). So if a fan fails, it would be like having that single location fail anyway. By using vastly superior fans, the residual risk of failure is lower. That's what using 150000 hour fans with magnetic bearings instead of 50000 hour fans with sleeve bearings gets you.
Do this NOW!!!! Just finished it and the printer is right next to me sitting on a table 35 decibels!!!! but i also changed the "hot end fan"
crazy knowledge. well done!
Thank you! :)
@@NexiTech do you have a cura profile for cr10s pro? i just cant get it to work quite right
Thank you soo much Nexi for this perfectly step by step video. I replaced all three fans successfully thanks to you. I purchased my cr10 s pro one week ago and mine has a different solid state relay (only a printboard). Do you maybe also have a fan replacement suggestion for the extruder head? The two fans are also very noisy. Many thanks!👍👋
Great video i must say. Im gonna do this upgrade on mine
Thank you for your comment.
Very clever idea to wire them serially and remove the necessity of the buck converters.
Nice video!
Thank you!
Love this video... short reminder, if you put the fans into serial mode any fan which breaks will cause all three fans to stop in the worst case.
I would recommend simply to solder a small cable with the same electical resistance as the fan and leave the fans in a parallel connection.
Werner Punz Thanks :)
What 3 fans? Only two fans are in serial connection. These fans are high quality and there is no way they will stop any time soon. Maybe if you leave this printer to work for months 24/7 in very dust environment then you might dust and dirt on the blades which can slow down or stop the fans. But there is no way the can ever burn up this way. You can even stop one fan with the hand and nothing will happen.
Yeah why not, what ever works for you my friend.
@@NexiTech No offence please, your vid is great, it will help me a lot. I just wanted to point it out. The thing simply is if there is a break in the serial elecrical circuit for whatever reason (bad connection breaking over time, a motor wire burning through, cable breaking etc... there are multiple theoretical points of failures) both fans go out at the same time. Not sure if this introduces a risk here or not. And yes Noctua fans are absolut top notch and are not really known to break easily - they are industrial grade and really the best you can get, love them.
Great job
Thank you.
Very nice video and I plan to make some of those changes. One slight problem is that you were using a thermal infrared camera to measure the power supply case. I believe the case is aluminum and has a very low Emissitvity which can cause a large error in the temperature reading, since it is measuring IR energy and not the actual temperature. You can do a search online for some tips and trick when measuring shiny surfaces like aluminum. Again thank you for posting these great tips and also suppling links to the devices used in the video.
Good video! I just got myself a CR10s pro 3 days ago, and I must say, the fans make a lot of noise.
But one point for youe video; Higher RPM doesn't translate to higher airflow, when comparing between fans. I lower RPM fan, like the high quaility Noctua, can have a much better design for pushing air, meaning they can move the same amount or more air, with much lower RPM
Thanks, Yes I was thinking the same like you. Noctua fans has way better design and premium quality that's why I order them after reading so much positives reviews online. Everybody loves them and now I know why :)
Well let me tell you that when I remove stock power supply fan I felt that stock fan is much more heavier and it 3.4 times more powerful in terms of watts then Noctua, Stock fan spins at 10.000RPM and it has almost double the air flow according to specs sheet on manufacturer website. Stock fan is really powerful but very noisy! When I check Amp drain of whole 3D printer with Amps clamp meter and re-check it with thermal camera under the load I found that new Noctua fan replacement are working great in our application and power-supply don't get hot.
Verry good video👍👍
Thank you
Good video, but just as a warning to those considering Noctua fans, be careful because especially with Creality style hotends (which have minimal heat sink surface area), Noctua's won't push enough air and you'll get heat creep on long prints.
Excellent video as always man, very detailed & helpful. Have you seen any issues since you made this upgrade with overheating for long (24h plus) prints? Curious to know if the lower airflow of the Noctua fans might cause issues over longer prints.
Thanks again 👍
Great video thanks for all your informations I've just replaced all fan with 40x40x20 fan ... I've made a bracket for the one next to motherboard ... Next replacement capacitive sensor and the fan on head but I need a converter for it.
i'm currently designing a part cooling duct for the cr-10s pro with a noctua 4x20 fan. if you are interested in the final result let me know!(free)
@@023douwebakker Could you put the link to your cooling duct here?
@@obiwan007 hello obiwan,
I designed and tested the cooling duct and this was my conclusion:
The static pressure of a standard 40x20x20 fan is not enough to generate enough airflow to cool the part properly.
I went back to my centrifugal fan and lived with the noise.
Just did exact same modification based on your video except I putted 3 Noctua fans all the same size and specs. Thanks for the great support you provided me in this video and the time I could save in doing it. For your information, in my CR10S Pro purchased in March, the relay is now placed onto a large aluminium plate/heatsink so no longer need to move it onto the aluminium extrusion. I'm thinking now in changing the hot end fans since those ones remain pretty noisy. Thanks again :-)
i'm currently designing a part cooling duct for the cr-10s pro with a noctua 4x20 fan. if you are interested in the final result let me know!
@@023douwebakker i would be interested in this
@@anthonyschimke204 i made the design and installed it on my printer, unfortunately the static pressure of the fan is not sufficient enough to be a part cooling fan
If you still want to take a look at the design i can send it to you
Adhesive sound damping foam would also reduce a bit more as the control box acts as an resonating chamber
Great video, follwed the steps and have amazing results. A questions now have you replaced the now, much louder cooling fan on the hot end?
Would this be possible? Cheers!
Nice!
Here I was, cutting and soldiering like a chump when I did my fan swap. Well, now I know what all those spare parts do if I need them in the future
Nick Anderson LOL! You are the best! Make my day :D
Careful, one person with this machine used cheap buck converters and it started smoking at the pre-soldered joints!
@@emotopdx Yes you are right, cheap converters are not that great. You have to be very careful with them. First of all you can easy short them as they don't have any insulation or a case and soldered wire usually stick a bit from bottom side of a converter so you can easily short it with the printer case, also cheap double side tape can came off after short period of time converter can fall down and short out with the printer case. Not to mention that there is a a lot of scams with fake chips and mosfets which gets hot and burn out after some time in use... Using fans is series are best and safest solution for me personally for this kind of application and if you decide to use buck converters I would to recommend to use thick Heat-shrink and real thick 3M tape and monitor these converters for some time with thermal camera to see how hot they get just to be sure.
Just followed this video to install my new cooling fans in the case. Thanks a lot for putting this together!
Have you swapped out the hot end fan or parts cooling fan? If so could you link to the video? (subbed)
I have the fans I just don't see a way to step down the 24v from the original wire to 12v for the new fan.
Also considering dual hot end fan setup and then I can just run them in series like the mobo/case fan.
Great video @Nexi Tech, You should also do a video on updating hotend/part cooler fan :)
Thank you! Well maybe I will :) Thanks for suggestion
@@NexiTech I would enjoy that one as well, please do that video :) Just replaced fans by your video and it is awesome, thanks!
I can only hope that changes were made to this unit in 2022 I just ordered mine and should arrive tomorrow. I was worried about the noise. Thanks for the tips. I gather making these changes void the warranty.
Nexi for the win!
Thanks.
Excellent video and great tips to simplify installation. I have one question though, I'm thinking on using 3x2cm noctua fans instead of 2x2cm + 1x1cm. This should make it easier to get 12v on both case and motherboard. But do you think that could add any other risk to airflow? I wouldn't think so but I don't have a fancy temp gun to check.
Nice tutorial video on how to make the cr10s pro V2 quieter. New to connecting wires , just one question, which fans are 1, 2, and 3? Thanks again.