I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Great help .... my truck (1998' 5.7L/Silverado 4X4) just quit after a Longggg trip (approx, 1000 miles) up to Northern Arizona to Flagstaff then off to Page, Az, & the border of Utah, to do some kayaking on Lake Powell ... Any whoooo ---- got ALL the way back home w/no problems; Yet, park the truck in the driveway - at the house & it NEVER started again !! Just cranks & cranks & cranks w/o starting; Yet, didn't have ANY trouble through-out the WHOLE trip !! I was VERY confused about what just happened... Now I've got somewhere to start - thanks to your video !!
Start by diagnosing the simplest first. Spark plugs - found #3 in my V6 w/a vertical crack. Replaced the entire set w/iridium equivalent and wow - HUGE difference in how they spark. I've always believed especially for my engine (V6 4.3 vortec) that the original plugs are going to be the best bet and usually that's true. GM experience of 40+ yrs says ALWAYS go with AC Delco with the ignition system. Knockoffs fail 90% of the time because of crossfire issues. BWD ARE pretty good - get the gold wire ones ALWAYS. AND DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE FILTER SCREEN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR. Lack of airflow causes a LOT of times moisture issues creating all that garbage on the posts. Much better to replace than clean because the issues keep coming back. HEY GREAT JOB DUDE! Tks!
I had a chevy 350. But same theory, as a rotor and cap are basically the same on vehicles. The rotor had burnt out. Now, you could not see that. When tested with ohms meter, it seemed fine, but I moved the tang a little, and low and behold, no connection. Simple check for rotor. Testing any cap with an ohms meter is good practice too. I graduated WYO Tech years back. It's always smart to test before you replace thing. As I was taught, a mechanic replaces parts driving up costs hoping to solve the problem, a true tech will test, know the problem before replacing anything. Love these vids guys!!
I had the same exact problem. 4.3 vortex. There are two little vents on the distributor that I drilled out to kept moisture form causing a no start on rainy days.
I had a 99 Chevy Astro I believe it was a 4.3 vortex and there wasn't a recall on the distributor but there was a paper out on it suggesting replacing the distributor because the moisture vents were too small and would get plugged up. The replacement part had larger vents.
Great video! $35 for parts and I'm back on the road! It feels good to diagnose and buy parts with confidence that they are the parts you actually need!
My truck would not start. When it cranked, it acted like the 350 was out of time. I remembered limping it in 10 years ago and having the same symptom. After way too much time dealing with the back torx screw, I finally removed it. The cap was badly corroded. The replacement cap had metal screws instead of the machine screws. I used one of those new screws in the front and reused the old good machine screw in the back. The truck started right up and runs great. Thanks for the reminder video!
Another informative one for us diyers. I lived in Fairbanks in the early 80's for a few years, that cold winter air does some strange things to a auto !
When you mentioned crossover shorting the light came on for me. I cranked it over while placing my hand on the top of the distributor cap and it shocked me pretty good. So I replaced the cap and rotor like you recommended. It fired right up. I live 40 miles south of you so I’m glad I didn’t have to get towed in. Thanks for the videos.
This video will age very well!! Good stuff here. There’s TONS of these trucks still out there(I own a 2 door Tahoe with 5.7)so I’m sure this has and will continue to help a lot of people.👍
I just had to post and say thanks dude.. I just happen to have the exact same setup that you're working on in this video and it helped me diagnose my problem in a very short amount of time.. it turned out it was my cap and rotor but I didn't want to believe that because I just replaced them 6 months ago.. my distributor cap had green corrosion buildup around all the contact points and the rotor was corroded as well.. maybe you could comment about why this only lasted 6 months.. I took them back to AutoZone where I purchased them they did come with a lifetime warranty... I spoke with the manager over there and told him how ridiculous it was that this cap and rotor only lasted 6 months and I didn't want to accept the same brand as a replacement.. I asked if I could upgrade to the AC Delco cap and rotor and just pay the difference... and to my surprise he actually did it for me and it only cost me a few dollars more.. hopefully now this will work out better for me but it was because of you and your video that I was able to solve this so easily.. thanks again and I hope you continue doing more GM 5.7 videos
hey thank you for sharing this,, I was led almost to think my spider injectors were bad,, I checked fire and fuel from top to bottom and couldn't figure out why my blazer wouldn't start!!,, so I bought all new wire n plugs which it needs anyways but I thought that has to be the problem but HOWEVER I watched your video and thought well it's worth a shot and man oh man if it wasn't the dam rotor!!!!,, I took off the old one and out the new one on and held my breathe turning the key!!!,,, and SHAZAMM!!! IT FIRED RIGHT UP!!!,, thanks again for sharing because it sure saved me a lot of money!!!🍺👍👍👍👍
Had the same problem on GM van with 5.7L, the center of the cap was not even there and the rotor contact was also gone !!! It started now and then and ran completely fine, and other time just crank and no start, so it was quite confusing, but turned out to be the rotor/cap - thanks !!!
Be sure to check your spark plugs. If they wear out to .055 " or so, the spark might not jump. I got burned for $1500.00 by a garage which also had a towing service, and they didn't even fix the problem. Sometimes it would start and run, and then it would stall in traffic. Moral of the story, Try to keep it out of garages, and check your plugs. When you get older a few years can turn into a decade and you might not even notice it. Plugs don't last forever. They often get neglected. Don't let it happen to you.
My 95 Tahoe is doing the same thing. Wasn't getting spark to the engine so I replaced the distributor and ignition coil. Now I have spark but still will not start. My father in law is a retired mechanic and believes it's the fuel filter. The fuel pump is working fine. This has been extremely frustrating!😤 One more thing you explained everything better than any videos I have seen. Great video Sir!!
Your a good person with proper values. I hope you do well in all things. Continue helping people, you are changing the world in the best way a single person can. 2 thumbs up on the video! I'm headed to store now to get that plug tester. I usually hold wire over spark plug and get hit sometimes lol. Take care! I learned about that tool this video.
I have the same motor in my truck. I get a crank but no start when there is moisture in the air or has been raining. It's the only time it does it. I used wire dry & it cured it for a little while. I think it could be the same problem..Your thoughts please... Nice video...
First time i seen one of your videos good stuff loved the way you presented the task. Very humble guy . Great to watch a video that was not only insightful but enjoyable to watch. Thanks again.
if....you break the distributor body tabs for the cap(since they are plastico) Dorman sells a kit to mount under the holes for $20.....OR you can do what I did. I crossed two zip ties in an X over and under the cap to keep it firmly affixed when Im driving.
Nice fix! I just buy the complete new distributors aftermarket. Under $150 but I would consider this fix on roadside no-start or remote area. Thanks for sharing.
+The Car Doctor me too. replace the ignition coil on the Chevy Vortec with an aftermarket coil. The OEM coil is riveted to the mounting bracket. Shoot, I used zipties to affix the new coil to the mounting bracket and since I lost the 5.5mm screws for the ignition control module I had to use ties to secure that too.
I saw your video for the first time this morning. I was having the same issues as you indicated. I replaced and distributor cap and rotor as you did and sure enough it was the fix. Thank you for your video.
Gray video it's very helpful I've been having an issue and have no spark I'm going to switch out the cap and rotor I have done everything else as far as even crank sensor and now I think I have to do a re learn is there a way to do it without a scan tool
Good video. Should have cranked engine to show what it did prior to replacing cap and rotor....for people that may not know exactly the sound it makes.
I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali with a 5.7 motor. It died on me. After trouble shooting and ohm test the distributor (no start situation) I got a 0.0 on the ohm meter. I bought a new and did the ohm test on the new one just to make sure. ( I work on my own vehicles but, I'm don't claim to be a mechanic. I do want to make sure I always do it right) I got 39. 89 on ohm. So it confirmed the old was bad. So I replaced it with the new. Made sure I had TDC on cylinder 1. Marked the old distributor before taking it out and marked it after I took it out. When installed the new one. Made sure it was pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap. I still have no start. About a month ago I did a complete time up so all plugs, wires, cap, rotor is all new. Brass contact cap and rotor. Only use good quality parts. I have the old cap and think I will test this tomorrow in case the new one has an issue. I'm stumped now.......
My '07 Sierra has the 4.3 and is doing the exact same thing. It wouldn't start this morning (at least it did me the favor of waiting until I got home last night). It's been missing for the past week or so and the check engine light has been coming on and off intermittently. The rotor and cap were absolutely fried when my buddy replaced them for me around 5 years ago, engine only had 35,000 miles at the time. It now has 57,000 and I'm 98% certain it's the same issue again this time. My back and hands are riddled with arthritis, but I think I have enough left in the ole tank to do this much.
I’ve lived it with two older GM’s I own, a 2000 Express van and a 1999 K2500. When they get wet and won’t start 9 times out of 10 it’s that poorly engineered distributor cap. I always keep a spare cap and rotor on hand.
Thank you so much car doctor. I have the same problem in my Chevy van 1999, it's crank but won't start. I thought it is a fuel pump problem but was not. After watching your video I did the same thing that you did then I changed the distributor cap and started well. So, accept my great thanks to you. Nasser Saudi Arabia
I have a 98 ext cab an the ttuck will crank till the battery is dead. If i hit it with 1 shot of starting fluid it fires right up an will run all day. Turn it off an the same thing. Cranks till the battery goes dead unless i pull the breather tube off that runs to the passenger side valve cover and give her s shot. Got 48psi fuel pressure, new plugs, wires, cap , rotor
I have a 94 GMC suburban 1500 5.7 after it runs in drive for about 30 minutes after you cut it off it won't start up. Until I let it cool off. I just put a new Alternator starter New battery still does it
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
Great video. Extremely informative and easy to understand. How do i keep distributor from getting wet? Have had to change out rotor and cap 3x in past year bcz after it rains i hv stalling issues. Its due to rain soon in SA ,TX...
+wyattoneable I don't think it set a code. They can cause misfire codes but in this case it was more of a sudden failure. Watch for extended cranking or when it seems like it's flooded before it finally starts. That may be a sign of pending failure of he distributor cap and rotor. Take it easy.
I would have started with the Fuel Pump relay but I guess by checking fuel for Pressure there would be No need thanks for this Helpful Video U make it look so Simple
My practicals are ongoing, yesterday my Teacher created an error in the car and said to me Start the Engine. It was cranking but no start. I found a problem the that Fuel isn't coming by touching the fuel lines near to Fuel-Injectors (it was silent). If 3 systems are fine; Starting System, Ignition System, Fuel System ; Engine must be start? today i was discussing with my classmate and he told me that in new Cars ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor must be OK for Starting the Engine. I do ask you for more better understanding, i LOVE how you work, im very inspired. Thanks Car Dr :)
Sounds like you are learning a lot of great stuff. Also seems like you have a natural inclination of mechanical ability. Some people probably shouldn't be a mechanic since they lack a natural knack to figure out how things work and when they are broken how to fix them. They can't teach you that part in school. Good job!
Yes sir the ECT is called a critical input more than one system needs that info to work correctly it is a thermistor and a lot of the time I think the car will crank no start without that input so nothing burns up
I have a 98 k 1500 these engines do have the gasket issues.. had to replace mine back in 08 but will say other than tune ups and one fuel pump. brakes ect...just general maintenance..I got 260000 miles on mine and it's still wont die....those old 5.7 are tough.
+Twolf125 indeed. These are very solid trucks. That said I had the unfortunate pleasure of a phone call today after this customer picked up the truck. He has driven about 50 miles and it began to run terrible. He was about 30 miles north of town so my wife and I grabbed another cap and rotor and my scanner and some hand tools and drove out. I changed out the cap and rotor just in case it may have been defective but it still would barely run. It had a couple codes for MAP sensor circuit and another for cam/crank correlation. I unplugged the MAP and it ran the same so I'm suspecting the distributor might be fried but I'm having it towed back to the shop and I'll check it out tomorrow. Anyways it looks like there will likely be a part two to this mini-series! Haha
I have 1996 Chevy Silverado 5.7 will not start I have change the cap and rotor the crank sensor in the cam sensor and the plugs. And also have a new fuel pump in it and have fuel pressure in a new fuel filter. It will not start still
are y'all needed to run but number 5 and number 7 is misfiring and I still have spark in both of you change out the spark plug from 1 to 7 change 7 to 8 wire .
2003 Buick Lesabre (210,000) miles: Cranks - NO START after extreme cold snap). Cleaned and tested injectors (cut off one injector connector and used as a connector with wires to connect to 12 volts while spraying cleaner through injectors (used an old valve stem) - then reconnected to engine elec wiring when done). Replace spark plugs (old ones worn out and flooded with fuel) tested for spark - good. Replaced ignition coils (3 ) - original with new, replaced plug wires(original) with new. Removed C/S harmonic balancer pulley/wheel - C/S sensor pickup rings were caked and burned with grease, dirt, grime - cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner to like new - reinstalled using a modified 3/4 x 5inch 16 threaded bolt (cutoff head) and nut and large washer to press balancer back into place. - replaced C/S sensor (original). Consensus - the problem was the C/S harmonic balancer C/S pickup rings being very dirty and worn out sparkplugs. The rest of the parts were for good measure. All parts AC Delco from Rockauto. Engine now runs like new.
I assume you have a 3.8 engine. Those things just never wear out. Keep an eye out for cam rotator in the future causing CMP sensor issues. Glad to hear you got her back in business. Take care
First times watching your videos, nice and clear, well explained and your great to explain. Keep on doing the good work. God bless you and your family and business. Would like to ask you, what scanner would you recommend me to get for a 2013 Tacoma with a V6 and automatic transmission. Thanks, blessings.
The correct Fuel Pressure is 55 to 60 PSI, and while the system hold fuel it does not hold pressure, that is gone few seconds after the engine is turned OFF, however to should build up in 2 to 3 seconds after you turn the key on, it is better to wait about 2 to 3 seconds before you turn the ignition key from ON to START, if you do so the engine will start on just 1/4 crank rather than 2 or 3 if you do not wait. The fuel prime works for less than 6 seconds (during key ON). If fuel filter is "clogged" then the engine will miss under full load (almost feels like misfire due to plugs but it is due to luck of enough fuel). Even with clogged filter the fuel pressure can be 60 PSI at idle, but on acceleration under load can drop to below 36 which is what the injectors need to operate. Wasted lot of time changing spark plugs, when it turned out to be fuel filter, long time ago - like 100K miles.
Fwq dat started right up. Someone took the 88 I was temporary using from underneath my nose to a mechanic shop spent 1,000 to supposedly get it fixed when I was waiting for the next day to come to get a wrench to put it in timing & spend $160.00 to buy the distributor. God dog th hat just started right up man. Congrats.
I'm dealing with this now......I have spark at coil but not at spark plug. The coil doesn't seem to be firing as hot as the one in the video but my battery is a little drained so maybe that's it. The rotor and distributor look a little corroded though.
Helpful video. Thanks. That spark tester is great...solved another problem i was having. Never heard of that tool. I proved that i do have spark. Set up my phone to video while I hit the key to turn it over. Looked good on 2 cylynders but still didnt start. Took the air handler off and sprayed a little starter fluid...still didn't even fire. That doesn't make sense to me.
I'm glad GM switched to the coil on plug system, although more expensive in parts to fix. I had a '97 and I drove across Canada, everything was fine was in Alberta for about 2 weeks when it stalled on me going down the road, it would crank but not start. When I got it in the shop I pulled the distributor cap to try and find top dead center, I actually thought initially that the timing jumped, but as soon as I got the cap off, found the rotor in pieces, there was a lot of corrosion inside, and the screws were out, I think the rotor got brittle. you would think if it was loose to start with the truck would have been misfiring, but it wasn't it just stalled.
had that problem in my 89 k5 blazer, put a new fuel pump didn't solve problem change the distr cap cranked rite up. could use a good mech like you in Los Angeles !
When it would rain my truck wouldn't start ,96 Z 71 5.7 vortex. Plugs ,wires, fuel pump , no start looked at distributor cap and rotor looked good ,started thinking spider. Instead a mechanic gave me an old distributor cap to try. Started right up. Friends truck done the same thing . We replaced the distributor cap and rotor started up. You can't see the problem with the cap but it was bad.
I have a 2003 chevy Silverado v6 it ran when I parked acted normal got in it today cranks. It won't start very odd can you help I'm thinking spark it's been really wet and humid out I can't get the air breather wing not to turn any suggestions please help
I just bought the 06 chevy silverado 4.3 with 119k miles and for 3 days it turned on fine. After sitting for 2 days it didn't turn on, crank but no start. I replaced wires, cap and rotor and now it starts now.
What do you mean by cap? That you replaced. Im having the same issue, my truck turned over yesterday but I noticed it took a little longer than usual, but idled just fine. I tried this morning and cranked but no start, i have replaced the plugs and plug wires. My next step is what you did and from what this video said and all my other research. But just wondering what you mean by cap
What if I sprayed starting fluid and the engine starts for a second and then it shuts off? Can it it be electrical??? Do an engine need electricity to keep it running???
Hot Sauce when you hit read more., It will be about a thousand words.. so don't skip over it , I am fairly though. It is worth reading. You didn't not mention make and model of your car. I am referring to my 1999 Ford expedition. I am not an expert but I've had to read up on 1999 Ford Expedition. I'm also a former TV tech. First, safety. I am texting a book. Do not do anything unsafe . There are many people that are doing things on the net that do things unsafe. Read your cars owner manual. Use a Haynes or similar manual These are some possible scenarios and some thoughts. The first answer is: yes , you always have to have dc supply volts for the car to run.. do I think it is electrical.. no. Remember, I'm guessing. When you spray the ether in it, it is burning it quickly and running out of fuel. I'm not sure .. it's possible for it to be a shutdown circuit, but don't think the car has a shutdown circuit for when it is bypassed with ether.. I think you elimated spark with the ether test just guessing.. Btw the Chilton's manual on the car has a good rundown on it . Reply and I'll help you research this properly. I own all three manuals including Haynes. Where I would think your problem is , is fuel. I suspect that there is no fuel on the fuel line.. on my Ford I have a Schrader valve that can put a gauge on.. you can buy or rent gauges at some Auto stores like Auto zone.. I think you should be looking for 25 pounds of pressure.. I would suspect any thing would make the car sputter and try to start. Also carry a napkin..some say cloth, but cloth can get stuck in that dangerous engine. Put it under the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or small punch and push the valve in, and gas will come out.. keep the car off for this test.. if you think something is dangerous don't do it Look up Schrader's Valve on you tube. Also realize there are people that don't know what they are doing. I have seen things that I know on the right circumstances could be lethal. Btw I would go and get a noid tester kit , make sure you have descent digital voltmeter .. don't use the non digital type. Don't use the free ones either, If you use an analog acldc voltmeter and accidentally have it set for resistance/ohms and touch a DC or 12 volts, it is trash. You can get a real descent digital voltmeter meter or dvm , at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. Now something is causing that fuel to not be there if it's found not to be there. First guess, dc 12 volts not getting to fuel pump.. You can do a quick test, it's not perfect. On my Ford 1999 Expedition, I can have somebody put the key on accessory.. don't try to start it. Now listen to the fuel pump ,, you can also hear it in the driver's seat.. also you should be able to stand several feet away from the fill point and hear the whirl of the fuel pump working.. it will just go for a second or so. If you don't have that.. remember I'm just guessing, you either have no voltage getting to the fuel pump or a bad pump.. and I guess you could have a short.. so let's pursue that . get your owner's manual out.. find out where the fuel pump fuse is.. check for voltage my car should have 12 volts there. If it's is blown fuse.. (oh yes.. use a good test light.sometimes what looks like voltage present could be very decieving,. Invest or rent the right tools. I can explain all this later. I'm texting this.) Well assume if it can light up a test light that it has enough amperage to run the fuel pump control circuit and pump.. btw the actual pump is a little tiny thing in my car.. about three inches.. just thought of this , the check valve goes bad on these assemblies.. get in your car, make sure everything is together. Turn your key to accessory and count to three, 1 2 3. Repeat about 4 times with a couple seconds rest. Listening closely you will hear the fuel pump working. Now start the engine, make sure everything is off of engine clothes, screwdrivers,ect. Now start the car. If it cranks.. my first guess is that the fuel pump has a bad check valve.. it's time to get another fuel pump.. Also your fuel filter should be changed every year or so, it's in your owner's manual. It only takes a few minutes, but is tricky. I recommend getting an estimate on this, after you get it running.. when they go bad they are hard to blow through.. also they can go different ways.. if you decide to do that yourself, make sure you put it in right, should come with instructions.. ok back to troubleshooting.. it's a little unsafe to get under the car.. you have to have good Jack's ect. I do it, but I try to work with the car on the ground. If possible when working on car I try to have my cell phone on and set for 911.. I really suggest limiting under car activity.. but I do it all the time.. you should know your limitations. Suggest having a good mechanic friend help you.... if you don't see the 12 volts going to the fuel pump control, or pump assembly, that's your immediate problem.. Now a lot of cars have a inertia shut off switch.. it is there to cut power to the fuel pump.. in case of an accident. it stops cars from blowing up.. don't ever bypass this.. also btw.on that subject bypassing things can blow out thousands of dollars..don't do it unless you know the circuitry ..I know electronics and have blown whole circuit boards up. Do not try to bypass something.. as a n electronic tech , I did it all the time.. but I knew what was doing.. enough of that. Now let's go back to the fuel pump power supply.. There are relays that go bad.. They would take a long time to tell you about them. I don't know if this will get to you , but I hope this helps. Also some models of my expedition were made with non replaceable relays.. they are soldered in..my guess is that Ford found some valid reasons for doing that.. sometimes for safety and reliability. These boards are 300 or so and often don't fix it. This is part of why bills are upwards of a thousand.. But all said I think you can fix this yourself, with proper tools ect.. There is a fuel pump control module that goes bad on 2002 or so models, it corrodes and falls apart .loses the ground and basically disintegrates, especially on salt roads. It is according to you tube, back the rear bumper. All this info is for my 1999 or so expedition.. get the exact info for your car. I've got work on mine today..
I have never seen such an interesting dizzy cap like that before, i suspect it was the companys plumber that created it :-D. Thankyou for your video :-D
1995 c1500, 4.3l vortec. my truck turned over yesterday but I noticed it took a little longer than usual, but idled just fine. I tried this morning and cranked but no start, i have replaced the plugs and plug wires and new battery. My next step is what you said in the video. But anything else you might think could be a problem?
That's an idea. The one advantage the tester may have over that is showing an actual voltage passing through the circuit. The timing light is an inductive pickup and may get a signal from a weak spark but fail to identify low voltage caused by a shorted cap or burnt rotor contact. At least that's my working theory but I have not tried the method you suggest and its thought provoking. I will do some testing when I get a chance to see if that's an easier way since I love saving time. Thanks for the input and for stopping by!
There is a big problem with aftermarket short distance caps they will carbon track down the side and short out ,every time it rains or in high humidity , a factory cap is the only way to repair it
I am looking at a 89 Cadillac Fleetwood fwd that has been sitting and it will turn over but not start according to the seller. It is a barn find with fairly low mileage. I know it's a long shot since neither of us have any history. Just looking for some ideas before i make that drive to check it out. Thanks.
Have the same problem with my 99 Tahoe. It cranks but will not start - going to check the coil, the plugs, rotor and cap. Also, going to check for fuel pressure. Hopefully one of those two items is causing my engine not to run. Thanks for the advice and troubleshooting.
My issue was the small connector that is to connect to the battery / tachometer fell out. Ended up replacing the entire distributor. Needed to anyway so was actually a good thing it fell out. But that was my case
hey car doctor, have a 2003 mpv and its really hard to start in the morning...I did a full tune up , crank and cam sensor, new pump...once started she run great all day....just when it cools down
I have the same issue on my 1998 Silverado 5.7.When its cold it spins over,fires for 2 seconds and dies.Replaced coolant sensor already and still does it.Warm days,not a problem
I have 1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7 vortec. Drove it started up and shut off like six times that day came home to fire it up and crank no start. So I used spark tester I've got spark at the plug number one the coil has spark the fuel pressure valve dribbles no pressure replace the fuel solenoid relay. Put gas in the carburetor and it starts how sure does this sound like fuel pump?
My 2000 Blazer was doing something similar to this. For about 2 weeks it was take 5-10 of cranking to start then today it would crank but wouldn't start. I'm hoping the distributor cap just needs to be replaced. I have the money for a fuel pump if that's the problem but don't wanna spend that much.
Josh Cook did you get yours figured out. Could use a hand over here i have 2000 chevy blazer. Starts after 5-10 mins cranking it over. Run all day once startred. Getting harder and harder to start.
No mine is still doing it. My uncle told me to turn the key back and forth 5-10 times without starting it. I've been doing that and it starts up right away but told me its most likely a fuel problem. I'm going to wait for a few more pay checks then take it to a mechanic.
I have a 89 Chevy Silverado 5.7. It cranks over but want start. When I poor fuel in throttlebody where the injectors are it will start but stops after fuel has burned. The fuel pump doesn't hum when key switch is in on position. The pump has been replaced but still no humming noise. I've replaced fuel pump relay and the ignition control module but still want start. Help needed.
I've got a 98 k2500 burb, 65lbs fuel pressure on start doesn't go below 60, no codes, great spark, but no start. Will crank and caugh a little but no start
@Babylon falling actually yes I did. It was the distributor cap & button so I ended up just upgrading to a msd. Not the streetfire. Took some digging but I found it on eBay. No problems yet starts everytime.
Not sure if that will help my truck I have a conversion year silverado c1500 12/95 to be exact.. But everything is the same as the 96. I have recently changed the crank position sensor on it and it still won't run.. I'm going to test the number 1 cylinder and see if it's getting fire this weekend, then test the coil after.. Hope it is the same issue that your video shown..
Got an 01 express 2500 with the 5.7 ran fine when I parked it. It has sat for awhile and won't start. Has fuel pressure, air, compression, and I've seen spark with a spark tester and even removed a spark plug and it was sparking to. Damn thing won't even try with starting fluid. I've killed 3 starters so far trying. I had put some seafoam in the gas before I parked it to
I would try a cap and rotor just for kicks. It can spark but in the wrong place with a shorted cap. Just an idea. Good luck and let us know what you figure out
Well the cap and rotor was the problem but the fuel pump quickly took a dump good thing I bought the one with a lifetime warranty couple years ago now it' starts right up. Thanks
my 81 corvette won't fire SOMETIMES when the weather turns cold for a day or 2 here in tx. it has spark getting air getting gas. has the HEI distributor. It have eldebock everything above the block. I have adjust the choke door till the cows come home.
mr tim thank you for your vids and teaching use. have you ever seen a guy on youtube make a test plate to show how the caps crossfire i regret not keeping how he built the tool to show crossfiring on the bench. thank you again if i can find it going to make serval thank you again from west tn
I have a 2002 2.4L 4cyl no start but crank over but it doesn't have signal to the injectors the rest is working, but I did change the computher cam senser and crank senser it will not start at all.
i take it that the wire {black-white stripe & r brown white stripe} i may have the stripe color wrong on black. they do not need to be disconnected when a complete or partial tune=up?
Very informative and easy to understand. My issue was different though. Replaced wires, rotor, cap, crank position sensor, cam position sensor and distributor. My vehicle (1997 C1500 Suburban) is 180° off TDC. This is why I had very poor performance. There is no TDC alignment groove bracket (removed deliberately??).
I love old-school cars, they are so much easier to diagnose issues on. Excellent job on finding the rotor problem.
What was the problem?
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Best video on the 5.7 chevy.
Great help .... my truck (1998' 5.7L/Silverado 4X4) just quit after a Longggg trip (approx, 1000 miles) up to Northern Arizona to Flagstaff then off to Page, Az, & the border of Utah, to do some kayaking on Lake Powell ... Any whoooo ---- got ALL the way back home w/no problems; Yet, park the truck in the driveway - at the house & it NEVER started again !! Just cranks & cranks & cranks w/o starting; Yet, didn't have ANY trouble through-out the WHOLE trip !! I was VERY confused about what just happened... Now I've got somewhere to start - thanks to your video !!
Start by diagnosing the simplest first. Spark plugs - found #3 in my V6 w/a vertical crack. Replaced the entire set w/iridium equivalent and wow - HUGE difference in how they spark. I've always believed especially for my engine (V6 4.3 vortec) that the original plugs are going to be the best bet and usually that's true. GM experience of 40+ yrs says ALWAYS go with AC Delco with the ignition system. Knockoffs fail 90% of the time because of crossfire issues. BWD ARE pretty good - get the gold wire ones ALWAYS. AND DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE FILTER SCREEN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR. Lack of airflow causes a LOT of times moisture issues creating all that garbage on the posts. Much better to replace than clean because the issues keep coming back. HEY GREAT JOB DUDE! Tks!
I had a chevy 350. But same theory, as a rotor and cap are basically the same on vehicles. The rotor had burnt out. Now, you could not see that. When tested with ohms meter, it seemed fine, but I moved the tang a little, and low and behold, no connection. Simple check for rotor. Testing any cap with an ohms meter is good practice too. I graduated WYO Tech years back. It's always smart to test before you replace thing. As I was taught, a mechanic replaces parts driving up costs hoping to solve the problem, a true tech will test, know the problem before replacing anything. Love these vids guys!!
I had the same exact problem. 4.3 vortex. There are two little vents on the distributor that I drilled out to kept moisture form causing a no start on rainy days.
?? Are you getting M O R E moisture by doing that ? mine wont start on HUMID days
I had a 99 Chevy Astro I believe it was a 4.3 vortex and there wasn't a recall on the distributor but there was a paper out on it suggesting replacing the distributor because the moisture vents were too small and would get plugged up. The replacement part had larger vents.
@@CMounsieur no it was starting better for me.
Great video! $35 for parts and I'm back on the road! It feels good to diagnose and buy parts with confidence that they are the parts you actually need!
You get OE cap and rotor for that price?
Thinking the same on price, OEM is like $60 to $80 depending on how fast you want to get it just for a cap and rotor.
Mike B
Another great video. I love the simple to understand instructions you provide for people. Easy and clear. Your a good guy. Thanks.
I really appreciate that. Blessings!
My truck would not start. When it cranked, it acted like the 350 was out of time. I remembered limping it in 10 years ago and having the same symptom. After way too much time dealing with the back torx screw, I finally removed it. The cap was badly corroded. The replacement cap had metal screws instead of the machine screws. I used one of those new screws in the front and reused the old good machine screw in the back. The truck started right up and runs great. Thanks for the reminder video!
Another informative one for us diyers. I lived in Fairbanks in the early 80's for a few years, that cold winter air does some strange things to a auto !
Indeed. Sure gets cold in Fairbanks. Will be traveling there next month for the restart of the Iditarod sled dog race.
It does that to people too!
When you mentioned crossover shorting the light came on for me. I cranked it over while placing my hand on the top of the distributor cap and it shocked me pretty good. So I replaced the cap and rotor like you recommended. It fired right up. I live 40 miles south of you so I’m glad I didn’t have to get towed in. Thanks for the videos.
This video will age very well!! Good stuff here. There’s TONS of these trucks still out there(I own a 2 door Tahoe with 5.7)so I’m sure this has and will continue to help a lot of people.👍
I just had to post and say thanks dude.. I just happen to have the exact same setup that you're working on in this video and it helped me diagnose my problem in a very short amount of time.. it turned out it was my cap and rotor but I didn't want to believe that because I just replaced them 6 months ago.. my distributor cap had green corrosion buildup around all the contact points and the rotor was corroded as well.. maybe you could comment about why this only lasted 6 months.. I took them back to AutoZone where I purchased them they did come with a lifetime warranty... I spoke with the manager over there and told him how ridiculous it was that this cap and rotor only lasted 6 months and I didn't want to accept the same brand as a replacement.. I asked if I could upgrade to the AC Delco cap and rotor and just pay the difference... and to my surprise he actually did it for me and it only cost me a few dollars more.. hopefully now this will work out better for me but it was because of you and your video that I was able to solve this so easily.. thanks again and I hope you continue doing more GM 5.7 videos
hey thank you for sharing this,, I was led almost to think my spider injectors were bad,, I checked fire and fuel from top to bottom and couldn't figure out why my blazer wouldn't start!!,, so I bought all new wire n plugs which it needs anyways but I thought that has to be the problem but HOWEVER I watched your video and thought well it's worth a shot and man oh man if it wasn't the dam rotor!!!!,, I took off the old one and out the new one on and held my breathe turning the key!!!,,, and SHAZAMM!!! IT FIRED RIGHT UP!!!,, thanks again for sharing because it sure saved me a lot of money!!!🍺👍👍👍👍
Excellent, super glad it was helpful!
God I hope that's what's wrong with mine.
Had the same problem on GM van with 5.7L, the center of the cap was not even there and the rotor contact was also gone !!!
It started now and then and ran completely fine, and other time just crank and no start, so it was quite confusing, but turned out to be the rotor/cap - thanks !!!
Very good! Worst distributor design ever. Glad you got her back on the road. Blessings
Be sure to check your spark plugs. If they wear out to .055 " or so, the spark might not jump. I got burned for $1500.00 by a garage which also had a towing service, and they didn't even fix the problem. Sometimes it would start and run, and then it would stall in traffic. Moral of the story, Try to keep it out of garages, and check your plugs. When you get older a few years can turn into a decade and you might not even notice it. Plugs don't last forever. They often get neglected. Don't let it happen to you.
Good advice!
Plug gap is .60!!
My 95 Tahoe is doing the same thing. Wasn't getting spark to the engine so I replaced the distributor and ignition coil. Now I have spark but still will not start. My father in law is a retired mechanic and believes it's the fuel filter. The fuel pump is working fine. This has been extremely frustrating!😤
One more thing you explained everything better than any videos I have seen. Great video Sir!!
What was it?the problem
Your a good person with proper values. I hope you do well in all things. Continue helping people, you are changing the world in the best way a single person can. 2 thumbs up on the video! I'm headed to store now to get that plug tester. I usually hold wire over spark plug and get hit sometimes lol. Take care! I learned about that tool this video.
Thank you so much. Blessings!
Thanks sr god bless you it help mi so mach✋
j
I have the same motor in my truck. I get a crank but no start when there is moisture in the air or has been raining. It's the only time it does it. I used wire dry & it cured it for a little while. I think it could be the same problem..Your thoughts please... Nice video...
Yep! Give it a try. Good luck.
First time i seen one of your videos good stuff loved the way you presented the task. Very humble guy . Great to watch a video that was not only insightful but enjoyable to watch. Thanks again.
This is an awesome video it help me resolve an issue with my 93 Camaro with the lt1
if....you break the distributor body tabs for the cap(since they are plastico) Dorman sells a kit to mount under the holes for $20.....OR you can do what I did. I crossed two zip ties in an X over and under the cap to keep it firmly affixed when Im driving.
Nice fix! I just buy the complete new distributors aftermarket. Under $150 but I would consider this fix on roadside no-start or remote area. Thanks for sharing.
+The Car Doctor yea for a customer repair sure replace it. but on my 15 year old car with 213,000 miles??? no way.
Don't tell anyone but I use zip ties for lots of stuff.
+The Car Doctor me too. replace the ignition coil on the Chevy Vortec with an aftermarket coil. The OEM coil is riveted to the mounting bracket. Shoot, I used zipties to affix the new coil to the mounting bracket and since I lost the 5.5mm screws for the ignition control module I had to use ties to secure that too.
Cops use them for hand cuffs.
I saw your video for the first time this morning. I was having the same issues as you indicated. I replaced and distributor cap and rotor as you did and sure enough it was the fix. Thank you for your video.
Gray video it's very helpful I've been having an issue and have no spark I'm going to switch out the cap and rotor I have done everything else as far as even crank sensor and now I think I have to do a re learn is there a way to do it without a scan tool
Removal of the radio will that cause more problems
I think you just solved my dually 454 issues years later and i found this so much info and im having the same issue
Good video. Should have cranked engine to show what it did prior to replacing cap and rotor....for people that may not know exactly the sound it makes.
I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali with a 5.7 motor. It died on me. After trouble shooting and ohm test the distributor (no start situation) I got a 0.0 on the ohm meter. I bought a new and did the ohm test on the new one just to make sure. ( I work on my own vehicles but, I'm don't claim to be a mechanic. I do want to make sure I always do it right) I got 39. 89 on ohm. So it confirmed the old was bad. So I replaced it with the new. Made sure I had TDC on cylinder 1. Marked the old distributor before taking it out and marked it after I took it out. When installed the new one. Made sure it was pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap. I still have no start. About a month ago I did a complete time up so all plugs, wires, cap, rotor is all new. Brass contact cap and rotor. Only use good quality parts. I have the old cap and think I will test this tomorrow in case the new one has an issue. I'm stumped now.......
Going on a trip to Mexico, you solved one of 4 things I need to fix. Thank you good sir
Glad to help. Hola
My '07 Sierra has the 4.3 and is doing the exact same thing. It wouldn't start this morning (at least it did me the favor of waiting until I got home last night). It's been missing for the past week or so and the check engine light has been coming on and off intermittently. The rotor and cap were absolutely fried when my buddy replaced them for me around 5 years ago, engine only had 35,000 miles at the time. It now has 57,000 and I'm 98% certain it's the same issue again this time. My back and hands are riddled with arthritis, but I think I have enough left in the ole tank to do this much.
BEST PROCEDURE IVE SEEN SO FAR, Do you have a video on going to the next step if it ISN'T the cap and rotor?
I replace my cap an rotor an started up when i had the same issue. I also replaced the fuel filter it was nasty. Or try ur fuel pump
I’ve lived it with two older GM’s I own, a 2000 Express van and a 1999 K2500. When they get wet and won’t start 9 times out of 10 it’s that poorly engineered distributor cap. I always keep a spare cap and rotor on hand.
Thank you so much car doctor. I have the same problem in my Chevy van 1999, it's crank but won't start. I thought it is a fuel pump problem but was not. After watching your video I did the same thing that you did then I changed the distributor cap and started well.
So, accept my great thanks to you.
Nasser
Saudi Arabia
Great basic Diagnosis on your no start . Good job !
Valuable to me thanks owner 97 GMC 4.3 SLT VERY common / luv my jimmy
I have a 98 ext cab an the ttuck will crank till the battery is dead. If i hit it with 1 shot of starting fluid it fires right up an will run all day. Turn it off an the same thing. Cranks till the battery goes dead unless i pull the breather tube off that runs to the passenger side valve cover and give her s shot. Got 48psi fuel pressure, new plugs, wires, cap , rotor
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! We all can learn from each other.
Thank you
I have a 94 GMC suburban 1500 5.7 after it runs in drive for about 30 minutes after you cut it off it won't start up. Until I let it cool off. I just put a new Alternator starter New battery still does it
Good job! Between you, Scotty Kilmer & ScannerDanner, my life is complete!
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
I always enjoy your videos. Someday, if you haven't already done it, I would like to see you diagnose the ignition control module on a silverado.
That would be a great video.
I really enjoyed your video. I miss the old school engines , got a 05 hemi jeep that doesn't want to start wish it was that simple
Great video. Extremely informative and easy to understand. How do i keep distributor from getting wet? Have had to change out rotor and cap 3x in past year bcz after it rains i hv stalling issues. Its due to rain soon in SA ,TX...
drill 2 small holes in the back of the distributor..be careful not to drill through any wire port. if you are curious about it...reply back.
Thank you for your video , my s10 still won't start I already did that cap and rotor changed ,
I'm paying attention. I have a 5.7 in my 1998 Chevy truck. Great explanation about the distributor cap. Did this failure set any codes?
+wyattoneable I don't think it set a code. They can cause misfire codes but in this case it was more of a sudden failure. Watch for extended cranking or when it seems like it's flooded before it finally starts. That may be a sign of pending failure of he distributor cap and rotor. Take it easy.
I have same problem. 5.7 vortec. Havnt replaced cap and rotor yet. Thx for posting.
Forgot too tell you... you have some of the best videos on the tube.. keep up the great work man.
+Twolf125 Thanks, I really appreciate that.
I would have started with the Fuel Pump relay but I guess by checking fuel for Pressure there would be No need thanks for this Helpful Video U make it look so Simple
UA-cam videos always make it look simple..haha. Thanks for watching.
My practicals are ongoing, yesterday my Teacher created an error in the car and said to me Start the Engine. It was cranking but no start. I found a problem the that Fuel isn't coming by touching the fuel lines near to Fuel-Injectors (it was silent). If 3 systems are fine; Starting System, Ignition System, Fuel System ; Engine must be start? today i was discussing with my classmate and he told me that in new Cars ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor must be OK for Starting the Engine. I do ask you for more better understanding, i LOVE how you work, im very inspired. Thanks Car Dr :)
Sounds like you are learning a lot of great stuff. Also seems like you have a natural inclination of mechanical ability. Some people probably shouldn't be a mechanic since they lack a natural knack to figure out how things work and when they are broken how to fix them. They can't teach you that part in school. Good job!
Thanks so much Car Dr :)
Yes sir the ECT is called a critical input more than one system needs that info to work correctly it is a thermistor and a lot of the time I think the car will crank no start without that input so nothing burns up
You need three things to make an engine run . Spark [ somewhat properly timed spark] Fuel . Compression. No compression .no start.
Muhammad Ali
Good job, I am going to try it myself 👍
Dang Why caint I have easy repairs like this Jiminy. Thank you for posting always enjoy watching.
I got lucky this time. Thanks for watching.
@@ThecardoctorTV I have this same truck same engine wont start right now. Once again I thank you
I have a 98 k 1500 these engines do have the gasket issues.. had to replace mine back in 08 but will say other than tune ups and one fuel pump. brakes ect...just general maintenance..I got 260000 miles on mine and it's still wont die....those old 5.7 are tough.
+Twolf125 indeed. These are very solid trucks. That said I had the unfortunate pleasure of a phone call today after this customer picked up the truck. He has driven about 50 miles and it began to run terrible. He was about 30 miles north of town so my wife and I grabbed another cap and rotor and my scanner and some hand tools and drove out. I changed out the cap and rotor just in case it may have been defective but it still would barely run. It had a couple codes for MAP sensor circuit and another for cam/crank correlation. I unplugged the MAP and it ran the same so I'm suspecting the distributor might be fried but I'm having it towed back to the shop and I'll check it out tomorrow. Anyways it looks like there will likely be a part two to this mini-series! Haha
+The Car Doctor ohh noo...
I have 1996 Chevy Silverado 5.7 will not start I have change the cap and rotor the crank sensor in the cam sensor and the plugs. And also have a new fuel pump in it and have fuel pressure in a new fuel filter. It will not start still
Did you check it for spark? It sounds like a spark issue if you got fuel. It's easy to run down the system once you know what's not operating.
@@lesglover6515 yes I do have spark
are y'all needed to run but number 5 and number 7 is misfiring and I still have spark in both of you change out the spark plug from 1 to 7 change 7 to 8 wire .
Module?
@@luvstruck2733 I changed out the spider injectors.
2003 Buick Lesabre (210,000) miles: Cranks - NO START after extreme cold snap). Cleaned and tested injectors (cut off one injector connector and used as a connector with wires to connect to 12 volts while spraying cleaner through injectors (used an old valve stem) - then reconnected to engine elec wiring when done). Replace spark plugs (old ones worn out and flooded with fuel) tested for spark - good. Replaced ignition coils (3 ) - original with new, replaced plug wires(original) with new. Removed C/S harmonic balancer pulley/wheel - C/S sensor pickup rings were caked and burned with grease, dirt, grime - cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner to like new - reinstalled using a modified 3/4 x 5inch 16 threaded bolt (cutoff head) and nut and large washer to press balancer back into place. - replaced C/S sensor (original). Consensus - the problem was the C/S harmonic balancer C/S pickup rings being very dirty and worn out sparkplugs. The rest of the parts were for good measure. All parts AC Delco from Rockauto. Engine now runs like new.
I assume you have a 3.8 engine. Those things just never wear out. Keep an eye out for cam rotator in the future causing CMP sensor issues. Glad to hear you got her back in business. Take care
First times watching your videos, nice and clear, well explained and your great to explain. Keep on doing the good work. God bless you and your family and business. Would like to ask you, what scanner would you recommend me to get for a 2013 Tacoma with a V6 and automatic transmission. Thanks, blessings.
Had the same prob on my 02 Chevy blazer 4.3. Dang caps don't last unless it's a delco
Same with my 97 S-10. AC/Delco for fuel pump too. Two cheap ones only lasted three months each.
The correct Fuel Pressure is 55 to 60 PSI, and while the system hold fuel it does not hold pressure, that is gone few seconds after the engine is turned OFF, however to should build up in 2 to 3 seconds after you turn the key on, it is better to wait about 2 to 3 seconds before you turn the ignition key from ON to START, if you do so the engine will start on just 1/4 crank rather than 2 or 3 if you do not wait. The fuel prime works for less than 6 seconds (during key ON). If fuel filter is "clogged" then the engine will miss under full load (almost feels like misfire due to plugs but it is due to luck of enough fuel). Even with clogged filter the fuel pressure can be 60 PSI at idle, but on acceleration under load can drop to below 36 which is what the injectors need to operate.
Wasted lot of time changing spark plugs, when it turned out to be fuel filter, long time ago - like 100K miles.
Fwq dat started right up. Someone took the 88 I was temporary using from underneath my nose to a mechanic shop spent 1,000 to supposedly get it fixed when I was waiting for the next day to come to get a wrench to put it in timing & spend $160.00 to buy the distributor. God dog th hat just started right up man. Congrats.
thank you for the video, I had the exact same problem with my truck and this helped a lot
Glad it helped. Thanks for dropping by!
Did it fix the problem?
I'm dealing with this now......I have spark at coil but not at spark plug. The coil doesn't seem to be firing as hot as the one in the video but my battery is a little drained so maybe that's it. The rotor and distributor look a little corroded though.
Thank you for making these videos . I’m always trying to learn new things and your videos are great .👍🇺🇸
Helpful video. Thanks. That spark tester is great...solved another problem i was having. Never heard of that tool.
I proved that i do have spark. Set up my phone to video while I hit the key to turn it over. Looked good on 2 cylynders but still didnt start. Took the air handler off and sprayed a little starter fluid...still didn't even fire. That doesn't make sense to me.
Love you're videos, keep up the great work and thank you for what you do!
Thank you so much for watching!
I'm glad GM switched to the coil on plug system, although more expensive in parts to fix. I had a '97 and I drove across Canada, everything was fine was in Alberta for about 2 weeks when it stalled on me going down the road, it would crank but not start. When I got it in the shop I pulled the distributor cap to try and find top dead center, I actually thought initially that the timing jumped, but as soon as I got the cap off, found the rotor in pieces, there was a lot of corrosion inside, and the screws were out, I think the rotor got brittle. you would think if it was loose to start with the truck would have been misfiring, but it wasn't it just stalled.
+kenman1717 Sounds exactly like what happened here. Not the fist time I have seen it.
had that problem in my 89 k5 blazer, put a new fuel pump didn't solve problem change the distr cap cranked rite up. could use a good mech like you in Los Angeles !
Hey you need to move to Alaska and I can be your mechanic! Thanks for dropping by
Blame it all on that L.A. haze. Just like the Jimmy Buffet song, 'Come Monday'. It'll be alright‼️
When it would rain my truck wouldn't start ,96 Z 71 5.7 vortex. Plugs ,wires, fuel pump , no start looked at distributor cap and rotor looked good ,started thinking spider. Instead a mechanic gave me an old distributor cap to try. Started right up. Friends truck done the same thing . We replaced the distributor cap and rotor started up. You can't see the problem with the cap but it was bad.
I have a 2003 chevy Silverado v6 it ran when I parked acted normal got in it today cranks. It won't start very odd can you help I'm thinking spark it's been really wet and humid out I can't get the air breather wing not to turn any suggestions please help
Have you checked fuel pressure?
Have you checked your passlock sensor in the ignition? another question is does it seem to be weather related ice cold or wet humid Bring It On
try distributor cap
Tee Dee I have trouble starting after rain
Spray it with PB Blaster n let it soak... pretty simple... 🤨
I just bought the 06 chevy silverado 4.3 with 119k miles and for 3 days it turned on fine. After sitting for 2 days it didn't turn on, crank but no start. I replaced wires, cap and rotor and now it starts now.
What do you mean by cap? That you replaced. Im having the same issue, my truck turned over yesterday but I noticed it took a little longer than usual, but idled just fine. I tried this morning and cranked but no start, i have replaced the plugs and plug wires. My next step is what you did and from what this video said and all my other research. But just wondering what you mean by cap
What if I sprayed starting fluid and the engine starts for a second and then it shuts off? Can it it be electrical??? Do an engine need electricity to keep it running???
Hot Sauce when you hit read more., It will be about a thousand words.. so don't skip over it , I am fairly though. It is worth reading. You didn't not mention make and model of your car. I am referring to my 1999 Ford expedition. I am not an expert but I've had to read up on 1999 Ford Expedition. I'm also a former TV tech. First, safety. I am texting a book. Do not do anything unsafe . There are many people that are doing things on the net that do things unsafe. Read your cars owner manual. Use a Haynes or similar manual These are some possible scenarios and some thoughts. The first answer is: yes , you always have to have dc supply volts for the car to run.. do I think it is electrical.. no. Remember, I'm guessing. When you spray the ether in it, it is burning it quickly and running out of fuel. I'm not sure .. it's possible for it to be a shutdown circuit, but don't think the car has a shutdown circuit for when it is bypassed with ether.. I think you elimated spark with the ether test just guessing.. Btw the Chilton's manual on the car has a good rundown on it . Reply and I'll help you research this properly. I own all three manuals including Haynes. Where I would think your problem is , is fuel. I suspect that there is no fuel on the fuel line.. on my Ford I have a Schrader valve that can put a gauge on.. you can buy or rent gauges at some Auto stores like Auto zone.. I think you should be looking for 25 pounds of pressure.. I would suspect any thing would make the car sputter and try to start. Also carry a napkin..some say cloth, but cloth can get stuck in that dangerous engine. Put it under the Schrader valve and use a small screwdriver or small punch and push the valve in, and gas will come out.. keep the car off for this test.. if you think something is dangerous don't do it Look up Schrader's Valve on you tube. Also realize there are people that don't know what they are doing. I have seen things that I know on the right circumstances could be lethal. Btw I would go and get a noid tester kit , make sure you have descent digital voltmeter .. don't use the non digital type. Don't use the free ones either, If you use an analog acldc voltmeter and accidentally have it set for resistance/ohms and touch a DC or 12 volts, it is trash. You can get a real descent digital voltmeter meter or dvm , at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks. Now something is causing that fuel to not be there if it's found not to be there. First guess, dc 12 volts not getting to fuel pump.. You can do a quick test, it's not perfect. On my Ford 1999 Expedition, I can have somebody put the key on accessory.. don't try to start it. Now listen to the fuel pump ,, you can also hear it in the driver's seat.. also you should be able to stand several feet away from the fill point and hear the whirl of the fuel pump working.. it will just go for a second or so. If you don't have that.. remember I'm just guessing, you either have no voltage getting to the fuel pump or a bad pump.. and I guess you could have a short.. so let's pursue that . get your owner's manual out.. find out where the fuel pump fuse is.. check for voltage my car should have 12 volts there. If it's is blown fuse.. (oh yes.. use a good test light.sometimes what looks like voltage present could be very decieving,. Invest or rent the right tools. I can explain all this later. I'm texting this.) Well assume if it can light up a test light that it has enough amperage to run the fuel pump control circuit and pump.. btw the actual pump is a little tiny thing in my car.. about three inches.. just thought of this , the check valve goes bad on these assemblies.. get in your car, make sure everything is together. Turn your key to accessory and count to three, 1 2 3. Repeat about 4 times with a couple seconds rest. Listening closely you will hear the fuel pump working. Now start the engine, make sure everything is off of engine clothes, screwdrivers,ect. Now start the car. If it cranks.. my first guess is that the fuel pump has a bad check valve.. it's time to get another fuel pump.. Also your fuel filter should be changed every year or so, it's in your owner's manual. It only takes a few minutes, but is tricky. I recommend getting an estimate on this, after you get it running.. when they go bad they are hard to blow through.. also they can go different ways.. if you decide to do that yourself, make sure you put it in right, should come with instructions.. ok back to troubleshooting.. it's a little unsafe to get under the car.. you have to have good Jack's ect. I do it, but I try to work with the car on the ground. If possible when working on car I try to have my cell phone on and set for 911.. I really suggest limiting under car activity.. but I do it all the time.. you should know your limitations. Suggest having a good mechanic friend help you.... if you don't see the 12 volts going to the fuel pump control, or pump assembly, that's your immediate problem.. Now a lot of cars have a inertia shut off switch.. it is there to cut power to the fuel pump.. in case of an accident. it stops cars from blowing up.. don't ever bypass this.. also btw.on that subject bypassing things can blow out thousands of dollars..don't do it unless you know the circuitry ..I know electronics and have blown whole circuit boards up. Do not try to bypass something.. as a n electronic tech , I did it all the time.. but I knew what was doing.. enough of that. Now let's go back to the fuel pump power supply.. There are relays that go bad.. They would take a long time to tell you about them. I don't know if this will get to you , but I hope this helps. Also some models of my expedition were made with non replaceable relays.. they are soldered in..my guess is that Ford found some valid reasons for doing that.. sometimes for safety and reliability. These boards are 300 or so and often don't fix it. This is part of why bills are upwards of a thousand.. But all said I think you can fix this yourself, with proper tools ect.. There is a fuel pump control module that goes bad on 2002 or so models, it corrodes and falls apart .loses the ground and basically disintegrates, especially on salt roads. It is according to you tube, back the rear bumper. All this info is for my 1999 or so expedition.. get the exact info for your car. I've got work on mine today..
Hot Sauce Yes! Check the codes using a Actron 9690 code tester. It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. It has code connect to diagnose codes.
fuel pump
@@budford183 not always
@@budford183 dumbass
Thanks this also works on the Mercury Marine Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI which is the same engine.
I have never seen such an interesting dizzy cap like that before, i suspect it was the companys plumber that created it :-D.
Thankyou for your video :-D
+zx8401ztv Haha. Yes I think you might be on to something. Thanks for watching.
1995 c1500, 4.3l vortec. my truck turned over yesterday but I noticed it took a little longer than usual, but idled just fine. I tried this morning and cranked but no start, i have replaced the plugs and plug wires and new battery. My next step is what you said in the video. But anything else you might think could be a problem?
having the same problem with my 4.3L GMC. thanks for the great informative video!
Sure. let us know what you come up with
great video, got my truck running with your example of how to check coil and spark to plugs
instead of that little spark tester and having to take the wires off, why not hook up a timing light to each wire and see if you get a light
That's an idea. The one advantage the tester may have over that is showing an actual voltage passing through the circuit. The timing light is an inductive pickup and may get a signal from a weak spark but fail to identify low voltage caused by a shorted cap or burnt rotor contact. At least that's my working theory but I have not tried the method you suggest and its thought provoking. I will do some testing when I get a chance to see if that's an easier way since I love saving time. Thanks for the input and for stopping by!
Bad Drivers of North Texas i
Thanks sounds good I didn't have no idea about cap and rotor I will try replacing mine .
Man you are very helpful sir God bless you....my 1999 Chevy suburban is doing exactly what u described in this video. Thank you
There is a big problem with aftermarket short distance caps they will carbon track down the side and short out ,every time it rains or in high humidity , a factory cap is the only way to repair it
My version of working outside is pushing the car inside. :)
+Thomas EXOVCDS as soon as the mosquitoes come out I'll be pushing them in as well...very fast. Before they drain my blood completely.
Thomas EXOVCDS pedroinfante
Thomas EXOVCDS B.B.
I am looking at a 89 Cadillac Fleetwood fwd that has been sitting and it will turn over but not start according to the seller. It is a barn find with fairly low mileage. I know it's a long shot since neither of us have any history. Just looking for some ideas before i make that drive to check it out. Thanks.
This video could have been 3 minutes long. Wow
What have you done lately to help anyone out? No one forced you to hang out here for 13 minutes. Are you a whiner, a wiener, or both?
Troll
Have the same problem with my 99 Tahoe. It cranks but will not start - going to check the coil, the plugs, rotor and cap. Also, going to check for fuel pressure. Hopefully one of those two items is causing my engine not to run. Thanks for the advice and troubleshooting.
Liked ♡
It's an L31 vortec I have one I've got to chase down a short between crank sensor and computer it's intermittent starting
Thank you sir, unbelievable humility, make you a pleasure to watch.
My issue was the small connector that is to connect to the battery / tachometer fell out. Ended up replacing the entire distributor. Needed to anyway so was actually a good thing it fell out. But that was my case
Thanks! Truck died at a stop light today. This will most deff help with diagnosis tomorrow 👍👍
hey car doctor, have a 2003 mpv and its really hard to start in the morning...I did a full tune up , crank and cam sensor, new pump...once started she run great all day....just when it cools down
Coolant temp sensor?
I have the same issue on my 1998 Silverado 5.7.When its cold it spins over,fires for 2 seconds and dies.Replaced coolant sensor already and still does it.Warm days,not a problem
Larry, Distributor cap!
I have 1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7 vortec. Drove it started up and shut off like six times that day came home to fire it up and crank no start. So I used spark tester I've got spark at the plug number one the coil has spark the fuel pressure valve dribbles no pressure replace the fuel solenoid relay. Put gas in the carburetor and it starts how sure does this sound like fuel pump?
My 2000 Blazer was doing something similar to this. For about 2 weeks it was take 5-10 of cranking to start then today it would crank but wouldn't start. I'm hoping the distributor cap just needs to be replaced. I have the money for a fuel pump if that's the problem but don't wanna spend that much.
Josh Cook did you get yours figured out. Could use a hand over here i have 2000 chevy blazer. Starts after 5-10 mins cranking it over. Run all day once startred. Getting harder and harder to start.
No mine is still doing it. My uncle told me to turn the key back and forth 5-10 times without starting it. I've been doing that and it starts up right away but told me its most likely a fuel problem. I'm going to wait for a few more pay checks then take it to a mechanic.
I see you're wearing shades. Your last couple of videos we all talked about how you never blink. Keep up the great videos. You're awesome 👌
I have a 89 Chevy Silverado 5.7. It cranks over but want start. When I poor fuel in throttlebody where the injectors are it will start but stops after fuel has burned. The fuel pump doesn't hum when key switch is in on position. The pump has been replaced but still no humming noise. I've replaced fuel pump relay and the ignition control module but still want start. Help needed.
I've got a 98 k2500 burb, 65lbs fuel pressure on start doesn't go below 60, no codes, great spark, but no start. Will crank and caugh a little but no start
@Babylon falling actually yes I did. It was the distributor cap & button so I ended up just upgrading to a msd. Not the streetfire. Took some digging but I found it on eBay. No problems yet starts everytime.
Not sure if that will help my truck I have a conversion year silverado c1500 12/95 to be exact.. But everything is the same as the 96. I have recently changed the crank position sensor on it and it still won't run.. I'm going to test the number 1 cylinder and see if it's getting fire this weekend, then test the coil after.. Hope it is the same issue that your video shown..
Got an 01 express 2500 with the 5.7 ran fine when I parked it. It has sat for awhile and won't start. Has fuel pressure, air, compression, and I've seen spark with a spark tester and even removed a spark plug and it was sparking to. Damn thing won't even try with starting fluid. I've killed 3 starters so far trying. I had put some seafoam in the gas before I parked it to
I would try a cap and rotor just for kicks. It can spark but in the wrong place with a shorted cap. Just an idea. Good luck and let us know what you figure out
Thanks for the reply I plan on doing that tonight after your video I opened it up and it was all corroded white I'll let u know what happens
Well the cap and rotor was the problem but the fuel pump quickly took a dump good thing I bought the one with a lifetime warranty couple years ago now it' starts right up. Thanks
my 81 corvette won't fire SOMETIMES when the weather turns cold for a day or 2 here in tx.
it has spark getting air getting gas.
has the HEI distributor.
It have eldebock everything above the block.
I have adjust the choke door till the cows come home.
mr tim thank you for your vids and teaching use. have you ever seen a guy on youtube make a test plate to show how the caps crossfire i regret not keeping how he built the tool to show crossfiring on the bench. thank you again if i can find it going to make serval thank you again from west tn
I have a 2002 2.4L 4cyl no start but crank over but it doesn't have signal to the injectors the rest is working, but I did change the computher cam senser and crank senser it will not start at all.
i take it that the wire {black-white stripe & r brown white stripe} i may have the stripe color wrong on black. they do not need to be disconnected when a complete or partial tune=up?
Very informative and easy to understand. My issue was different though. Replaced wires, rotor, cap, crank position sensor, cam position sensor and distributor. My vehicle (1997 C1500 Suburban) is 180° off TDC. This is why I had very poor performance. There is no TDC alignment groove bracket (removed deliberately??).