Good scan tool here --> amzn.to/3gbdtSX This is a Amazon affiliate link where I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase. Shopping through these links is a great way to support the channel so I can keep making videos like this one, Thanks! DHammiam
Will I be able to see the CMP values on the tool you have linked in this comment? I want to by a scanner that will help me diagnose the the same issue with my k2500. Thanks for the informative video
Thanks a million none of. The scanners sellers mention this ability of their product if it has it or not!! I just ordered mine from Amazon !! again thanks you a good sales man!
I’m happy to hear that. I like to always learn what everything in a scanner means. It comes in handy for sure. Let me know how you like the one you get. Thank you!
I agree, priceless. My Dad passed away almost a year ago now and I miss him more each day. I’m so thankful I had him living with me the past 9 years. Made the best memories
I was getting the same code p1345 and also a code for the crankshaft p0339 found oil leak was causing the connector to be soaked possibly contaminated cleaned it with electrical cleaner and put some dielectric grease took care of the issues and both codes.
I can turn the distributor like how they adjusted the old school 350? I thought the vortecs don't get set like that? I got the p1345 code too. And mine was off a tooth. And to the eye it looks lined up to the #1 on rotor, but its still got the same code.
i have a 99 Yukon 5.7, and I have the p1345 code and put a new distributor in thinking it would solve a misfire it has under acceleration and it’s still doing so if not worse. I believe it’s behind in timing but which direction is it supposed to be moved over ?
It’s best to put on TDC and move it, but not necessary. You can just mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing, pull the distributor up, turn the rotor one tooth and put back in. The only reason you’d have to pull it back out is if you were so far off that you run out of adjustability, distributor hits something before you get to where it needs to be. If you’re behind, turn counter clockwise (looking down on distributor) to advance
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
Was the truck off when you moved distributor over a tooth? Older vehicles, I was able to just turn distributor. I'm sure it was off but just checking ! Never done this on 5.7l so Leary to mess up something. I love my truck but this code disturbs me & I want it gone... 😂😂😂
The only thing was a check engine light and rough idle. It definitely could overheat and run rough if the timing is way off. When the ignition is happening and the heat is directed to the open cylinder vs being pushed out the exhaust
@@dhammiam the reason i ask is because i just bought a truck that the guy said it has a blown head gasket but it runs, its runs really rough and that is the only code, and he said he replaced the upper intake stuff so i just wonder if he put the distributor back in wrong or if it actually has a blown head gasket..
@@norayreview Did u figure out if it was the distributor or not? I’m having the same problems and i’m not sure if i put it in wrong because i changed it and it’s been happening since.
I can not seem to get rid of my p0325 code after 2 knock sensor replacements and 1 pigtail replacement for the knock sensor circuit. Installed new ACCEL distributor,cap,rotor and wires. I am questioning the timing chain and gears at this point. Got any ideas man? 1996 silverado k1500 with 5.7 vortec is the vehicle.
Can you hear it spark knocking? Check every wire in the circuit for corrosion and make sure all grounds are ok. Check the EGR valve as well. If its not working correctly the cylinder temps can get higher and cause spark knock (pre-ignition) just as a vacuum leak can or advanced timing. I assume there's no P1345 set so timing is probably not advanced. Coolant temps and Fuel pressure ok? These are clues for me so that's why I ask, thanks.
That would be turning the distributor counter clockwise and if you’re running out of room, pull distributor, turn rotor clockwise one tooth and put back in and adjust
Nidia Armendariz something else you may have to do to get it to show is after adjusting, turn the scan tool off and back on to make sure it’s reading the change. I had to do that with mine.
brown67 to back the timing down (retard the timing) on a Chevrolet engine turn clockwise. To advance it turn counter clockwise, since the rotation of the rotor is clockwise. Thanks for commenting
So I've got a 2001 and the computer supposed to do the fine adjustments did the exact same thing as far as intake gaskets and all that new distributor ran beautifully right off the bat didn't smell any raw fuel new spider all that good stuff just to be on the safe side cylinder one top dead center with a indicator gauge put it right at the Mark which is the number eight on the driver side while looking under the distributor cap just as it's piston starting to go down just a hair and it ran way better then I started getting the raw if you will smell eventually I'm starting to suspect my PCM of not being able to make the changes it needs all distributor and new distributor lined up pretty much the same the new one wanted to go clockwise just a little bit more and the spark seemed a little premature so I adjusted a counterclockwise a little using my crappy scan tool and just timing how long it took the light to come back on I always had engine misfire nothing specific finally it just gave me the two camshaft crankshaft correlation code it seems as though the timing does not stay consistent it changes it'll be running great after I adjust it and then it will fluctuate this is the first time I've ever gotten this code it was giving me the misfire code with the new distributor no matter how it was adjusted has anyone heard of symptoms like this with a bad PCM or any ideas thanks also if you know of a bigger engine that I could fit in this work van I would love to hear about it I'm thinking about getting an Escalade engine and tranny it's a pretty heavy 3500 cutaway dually thanks y'all
@@dhammiam there's not too many miles on this rebuilt Jasper engine so I would say not the original problem was rough start after the engine was warm passenger side cat was pretty much completely clogged nothing on the driver side it had been removed since done all the oxygen sensors remove the cat out of the other side I'm trying to think back pressures semi important to this engine I'm in the middle of cutting the peepholes in my cap to have a look see I'm also looking to buy a new scan tool a proper one with live data I own mostly Chevy GMC if you have any recommendations that would be cool maybe I can go through your link to buy one I have not been successful on finding one online that can get into these computers most of them are for BMW European cars etc and also if I buy a new PCM or a used one they say I can get it programmed to my VIN and I'm hoping I can tell him there's no cats and there's an adjustment there as well not sure thanks
Yeah so after cutting the holes in there and running at 1100 RPMs it looks like I need to rotate the cap counterclockwise which would be more in line with what the old one was at so maybe the old one was off the tooth as well I'll give it a shot.......... So move it over to it didn't give me any more play moved it back to where it was and the Sparks are coming off fairly straight I drilled a bunch of holes so I could check each pin it seems as though the way they make the cap they don't all hit straight so it's kind of at a happy medium great video thanks again
@@capecodwoody here’s the link to what seems like a good scan tool and code reader for the price. I’ve got older models and this one has lifetime updates via WiFi which is great. Seems I forgot to add the link in my comment pinned to my video 😆 amzn.to/3gbdtSX
Looking down at the distributor turn it clockwise probably half inch or so. May have to pull it out and move 1 tooth if you don’t have enough adjustment
My truck just stalled while making a left turn. Pulled codes p1345 and p0108 map sensor... possibly bad sensors or ground issue? Something kinda smelled burnt under the hood. Im at work and cant really look at it until lunch though....any help
Which way did you move the distributor? If you read -22°, does that mean the rotor is BEHIND where it wants to be? In other words, does the scanner report rotor position (cam) or what the ECM is trying to correct? BTW, I just installed mine and when I turn the crank to #1 TDC, the rotor looks to be lined up with #1 tower on the cap but I'm getting a +22° reading on scan tool and the MIL on.
It sounds like you need to turn the distributor clockwise looking down at it. Turning it counter would advance the timing since the rotor turns clockwise
@@dhammiam The distributor has a square housing where the fork is. You can only turn it a degree or so. It is not intended to rotated like the old ones were. The only "timing" thats available is rotating the shaft by a tooth in either direction. When I do that its too much.
@@313barrygmail Yes. Turns out the aftermarket distributor can have a wide tolerance. Dowel pin, gear, stator plate, shaft all can add up to misalignment. I widened the slot on the clamp (both the bolt hole and fork) and re-installed the distributor. Rotated it while engine running and went both ways (+ and -) until I could actually hear the spark jumping inside. Centered it and got it near 0 degrees. MIL light off, runs great. While this is a bit of a hack job, its what it takes when using some aftermarket parts. Designed to non-adjustable but you need this allowance to center the distributor with the cam
If you’ve done repairs and there are no issues such as intake leaks, or bad spark plugs or you no longer have a misfire, may just need a crankshaft sensor re-learn. Will need a scan tool capable of doing one. Good luck and let me know if this works
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
Good scan tool here --> amzn.to/3gbdtSX
This is a Amazon affiliate link where I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase. Shopping through these links is a great way to support the channel so I can keep making videos like this one, Thanks! DHammiam
Will I be able to see the CMP values on the tool you have linked in this comment? I want to by a scanner that will help me diagnose the the same issue with my k2500. Thanks for the informative video
Thanks a million none of. The scanners sellers mention this ability of their product if it has it or not!! I just ordered mine from Amazon !! again thanks you a good sales man!
I’m happy to hear that. I like to always learn what everything in a scanner means. It comes in handy for sure. Let me know how you like the one you get. Thank you!
Best part of video was seeing dad hanging out with you.
I agree, priceless. My Dad passed away almost a year ago now and I miss him more each day. I’m so thankful I had him living with me the past 9 years. Made the best memories
I simplely lifted the ditrubor up and moved it a tooth advanced. Cured the code.
Good, you nailed it 👍🏼
Thanks' I forgot all about the CMP /// Fixed it
Good deal 👏👍🏼
I was getting the same code p1345 and also a code for the crankshaft p0339 found oil leak was causing the connector to be soaked possibly contaminated cleaned it with electrical cleaner and put some dielectric grease took care of the issues and both codes.
Great! Thanks for the information and good job fixing it
Well done, thank you for the info!
Thanks and Good luck to you.
Thanks for making this video
Thank you. I’m glad I could help
I can turn the distributor like how they adjusted the old school 350? I thought the vortecs don't get set like that? I got the p1345 code too. And mine was off a tooth. And to the eye it looks lined up to the #1 on rotor, but its still got the same code.
It has to be set basically at zero so the computer has enough adjustment. -2 degrees to +2 is the window. Has to be set with a scan tool
i have a 99 Yukon 5.7, and I have the p1345 code and put a new distributor in thinking it would solve a misfire it has under acceleration and it’s still doing so if not worse. I believe it’s behind in timing but which direction is it supposed to be moved over ?
And did you just pull it out and move it over or did you turn it over and get it to TDC then do so ?
It’s best to put on TDC and move it, but not necessary. You can just mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing, pull the distributor up, turn the rotor one tooth and put back in. The only reason you’d have to pull it back out is if you were so far off that you run out of adjustability, distributor hits something before you get to where it needs to be. If you’re behind, turn counter clockwise (looking down on distributor) to advance
Check out this video here next -> ua-cam.com/video/5SD4YgabwMI/v-deo.html
Good job figuring it out 💛
IamThamm thank you. Figuring out issues and fixing them is a great feeling. When the vehicle is finished and leaving the shop is a bonus.
Excellent UA-cam. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. Hopefully I was able to help you. Have a great week
Did you pick up the distributor & move it left or right one tooth?
Looking down at the distributor, Turning it counter would advance the timing since the rotor turns clockwise
@@dhammiam I'll give it a try... It'd be better if you did it! lol
Hey thank you for the help man
Absolutely. I’m glad to help, thank you.
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
Can you do that with a regular scan tool or do have to have the one you have ?
You can do it on a scanner that shows data, but not on just a code checker. My scanner is actually around 10 years old.
What scan tool is that will it relearn on a 2004 express van
This is a Mac Tools Taskmaster. It’s about 15 years old. It would work on a 2004
Was the truck off when you moved distributor over a tooth? Older vehicles, I was able to just turn distributor. I'm sure it was off but just checking ! Never done this on 5.7l so Leary to mess up something. I love my truck but this code disturbs me & I want it gone... 😂😂😂
It was off just enough that when I needed another 1/4" or so It was hitting something and wouldn't go any further
Was it running extremely rough and over heating before you did that?
The only thing was a check engine light and rough idle. It definitely could overheat and run rough if the timing is way off. When the ignition is happening and the heat is directed to the open cylinder vs being pushed out the exhaust
@@dhammiam the reason i ask is because i just bought a truck that the guy said it has a blown head gasket but it runs, its runs really rough and that is the only code, and he said he replaced the upper intake stuff so i just wonder if he put the distributor back in wrong or if it actually has a blown head gasket..
@@norayreview very well could be.
@@norayreview Did u figure out if it was the distributor or not? I’m having the same problems and i’m not sure if i put it in wrong because i changed it and it’s been happening since.
@@ricsosaucy8611 well i started it and filled it up with coolant and there was constant bubbles, so i concluded mine is headgaskets.
Thanks!
Thank you
I can not seem to get rid of my p0325 code after 2 knock sensor replacements and 1 pigtail replacement for the knock sensor circuit. Installed new ACCEL distributor,cap,rotor and wires. I am questioning the timing chain and gears at this point. Got any ideas man? 1996 silverado k1500 with 5.7 vortec is the vehicle.
Can you hear it spark knocking? Check every wire in the circuit for corrosion and make sure all grounds are ok. Check the EGR valve as well. If its not working correctly the cylinder temps can get higher and cause spark knock (pre-ignition) just as a vacuum leak can or advanced timing. I assume there's no P1345 set so timing is probably not advanced. Coolant temps and Fuel pressure ok? These are clues for me so that's why I ask, thanks.
Would it always be behind by a tooth, or could it be ahead by a tooth?
It could be ahead, yes definitely
Thanks, good info!
Thank you
My advance timing is at -21 degrees I am trying to set it at between - 2 and +2 and I can"t seem to get it off from -21 degrees , what do I need to do
Most likely need to move advance one tooth
That would be turning the distributor counter clockwise and if you’re running out of room, pull distributor, turn rotor clockwise one tooth and put back in and adjust
@@dhammiam thank you , I'll do that and your video very helpful
Nidia Armendariz something else you may have to do to get it to show is after adjusting, turn the scan tool off and back on to make sure it’s reading the change. I had to do that with mine.
@@dhammiam ok will do , thanks
Does the code self clear when its in the sweet spot?
I've done these steps as well and my MIL is still on.
The check engine light will go off once it’s in the right spot, and the code stored will clear itself eventually or with disconnecting the battery
@@dhammiam i guess im not quite there yet.
Thank you very much!
Which wat did you turn the distributor? left or right?
brown67 to back the timing down (retard the timing) on a Chevrolet engine turn clockwise. To advance it turn counter clockwise, since the rotation of the rotor is clockwise. Thanks for commenting
Are we moving it counterclockwise looking at the motor from front of vehicle or from inside the vehicle?
Looking directly down on the distributor from under the hood.
So I've got a 2001 and the computer supposed to do the fine adjustments did the exact same thing as far as intake gaskets and all that new distributor ran beautifully right off the bat didn't smell any raw fuel new spider all that good stuff just to be on the safe side cylinder one top dead center with a indicator gauge put it right at the Mark which is the number eight on the driver side while looking under the distributor cap just as it's piston starting to go down just a hair and it ran way better then I started getting the raw if you will smell eventually I'm starting to suspect my PCM of not being able to make the changes it needs all distributor and new distributor lined up pretty much the same the new one wanted to go clockwise just a little bit more and the spark seemed a little premature so I adjusted a counterclockwise a little using my crappy scan tool and just timing how long it took the light to come back on I always had engine misfire nothing specific finally it just gave me the two camshaft crankshaft correlation code it seems as though the timing does not stay consistent it changes it'll be running great after I adjust it and then it will fluctuate this is the first time I've ever gotten this code it was giving me the misfire code with the new distributor no matter how it was adjusted has anyone heard of symptoms like this with a bad PCM or any ideas thanks also if you know of a bigger engine that I could fit in this work van I would love to hear about it I'm thinking about getting an Escalade engine and tranny it's a pretty heavy 3500 cutaway dually thanks y'all
Just curious and going off my first thoughts here, wondering if the timing gears and chain are worn??
@@dhammiam there's not too many miles on this rebuilt Jasper engine so I would say not the original problem was rough start after the engine was warm passenger side cat was pretty much completely clogged nothing on the driver side it had been removed since done all the oxygen sensors remove the cat out of the other side I'm trying to think back pressures semi important to this engine I'm in the middle of cutting the peepholes in my cap to have a look see I'm also looking to buy a new scan tool a proper one with live data I own mostly Chevy GMC if you have any recommendations that would be cool maybe I can go through your link to buy one I have not been successful on finding one online that can get into these computers most of them are for BMW European cars etc and also if I buy a new PCM or a used one they say I can get it programmed to my VIN and I'm hoping I can tell him there's no cats and there's an adjustment there as well not sure thanks
Yeah so after cutting the holes in there and running at 1100 RPMs it looks like I need to rotate the cap counterclockwise which would be more in line with what the old one was at so maybe the old one was off the tooth as well I'll give it a shot.......... So move it over to it didn't give me any more play moved it back to where it was and the Sparks are coming off fairly straight I drilled a bunch of holes so I could check each pin it seems as though the way they make the cap they don't all hit straight so it's kind of at a happy medium great video thanks again
@@capecodwoody here’s the link to what seems like a good scan tool and code reader for the price. I’ve got older models and this one has lifetime updates via WiFi which is great. Seems I forgot to add the link in my comment pinned to my video 😆
amzn.to/3gbdtSX
It’s very hard to get the timing right without a scan tool to tell ya exactly where it is
What way did you twist it my truck is at +30 degree
Looking down at the distributor turn it clockwise probably half inch or so. May have to pull it out and move 1 tooth if you don’t have enough adjustment
@@dhammiam okay thank you also my scanner only does ignition time advance for cylinder 1 is that the same thing?
@@user-wf2ek8hz8g yes that is it. Good luck and let me know if ya need any more help
My truck just stalled while making a left turn. Pulled codes p1345 and p0108 map sensor... possibly bad sensors or ground issue? Something kinda smelled burnt under the hood. Im at work and cant really look at it until lunch though....any help
Jason Mock check out this video, may help you. Good luck. ua-cam.com/video/QSR6pIXzvl0/v-deo.html
Which way did you move the distributor? If you read -22°, does that mean the rotor is BEHIND where it wants to be? In other words, does the scanner report rotor position (cam) or what the ECM is trying to correct? BTW, I just installed mine and when I turn the crank to #1 TDC, the rotor looks to be lined up with #1 tower on the cap but I'm getting a +22° reading on scan tool and the MIL on.
It sounds like you need to turn the distributor clockwise looking down at it. Turning it counter would advance the timing since the rotor turns clockwise
@@dhammiam The distributor has a square housing where the fork is. You can only turn it a degree or so. It is not intended to rotated like the old ones were. The only "timing" thats available is rotating the shaft by a tooth in either direction. When I do that its too much.
Well I’m having the exact same problem did you ever figure it out
@@313barrygmail Yes. Turns out the aftermarket distributor can have a wide tolerance. Dowel pin, gear, stator plate, shaft all can add up to misalignment. I widened the slot on the clamp (both the bolt hole and fork) and re-installed the distributor. Rotated it while engine running and went both ways (+ and -) until I could actually hear the spark jumping inside. Centered it and got it near 0 degrees. MIL light off, runs great.
While this is a bit of a hack job, its what it takes when using some aftermarket parts. Designed to non-adjustable but you need this allowance to center the distributor with the cam
Great video. You do realize that on the Chevy 5.7L Vortec that the timing is supposed to be at + or - 2 degrees not at zero :)
Thanks. Yes, zero is exact center of + or -2
Lol what a dumb ass. Zero is right where it should be
@@daves_not_here_mannn lmao what a fucking idiot
Must be above 1000 rpm for this test.
Im stuck on a p0300 can't figure it out sucks
If you’ve done repairs and there are no issues such as intake leaks, or bad spark plugs or you no longer have a misfire, may just need a crankshaft sensor re-learn. Will need a scan tool capable of doing one. Good luck and let me know if this works
What?
What what? 😂
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
It’s more possible that the timing gear and chain is wore. That’s an easy fix. What are your symptoms and how many miles on the engine?