An overview of display issues with a Honda Civic European Mark VIII audio display / clock. I talk you through how to take the display out and how to fix it.
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
Having watched this video I have done mine just now , followed the exam same method and yes as mentioned in the video , you need to add a little force . I was more concerned about scratching or bending the plastic with the removal tool , however I added a bit cloth on the prying tool to avoid any dents . The main clock display is a bit tough but to make it easier watch the video and see where the clips are on the back side , that where the additional pressure is required . I hope my 2 pence worth helps .
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
I found the panel comes out easier by releasing/pulling on the left hand side first and then the right side after and remove from both ends once initially released from the two clips on each end. Releasing the right hand end first causes the left hand end to jam up. The way the clips are designed,the panel has to come out and refit parallel to the facia.
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
Good tutorial thanks. I found all my pins made contact, but some only after moving under pressure of the probe of multimeter. So I soldered all those which moved when poked. Works ok so far
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips... Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
Thanks for the video. My 56 plate has this issue but also has the same problem with the backlight for the rev counter, other than this and a water leak that i cannot locate its been a great car for 5 years!
Good old Hondas. None of this new fangled electric vehicle, charge looses 50% if it is cold, quick charge costs more than petrol nonsense. Keep the Honda running until cars are powered by Mr Fusion.
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now. Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial, very useful! As you mention, some parts and clips are very frustrating to remove... I've managed to get both speedometer and radio screen stuck with each other (I could only remove the speedometer clip close to the radio screen), cracking the plastic part of the speedometer on the opposite side plus the central pin (so the more I pull, the more it breaks). I had to leave them like that because now I cannot put them back as they were and pulling them with all my strength does't seem to work. I'll try again tomorrow, hoping for a miracle...
How did you get on, find your miracle? Sorry to hear that the speedometer cracked on you. They are nightmare things to get out. Probably easy if you've worked in the factory assembling them and know exactly where all the clips are and what the right technique is. But trying to figure it out blind (or even with a UA-cam video) is extremely difficult.
I did this today. Getting the panels out took about 15 mins. But you really did have to yank on them to get them out. Plastic trim tools are a must. Although, the LCD panel broke two of mine! Resoldering was very fiddly, not helped by my oxidised soldering tip that I had to sandpaper to get the heat transfer going. But once you get the knack, it doesn’t take too long to do them all. Here’s hoping I’ll never have to do that again.
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
Ha, got the same issue on my 2007, might give it ago at some point looks a bit of a faf though. I also getting my window that won't wind down fixed and dash blower that won't turn off fixed at garage. Great cars motor wise, its just all the other stuff thats failing like electronics.
Yep, dismantling it is a serious pain. I'm currently in the process of changing a dead ABS sensor. Corrosion and rust welds, a different type of frustration.
Great, let me know if you have any questions. It is a pretty simple process but it is damn hard judging the right amount of force to use to remove all the panels and pry the hidden clips out.
Thank you, followed this tutorial, just a quick tip, if you use a lot of resin on the pins, that solders perfectly back everything, uk Hull I can help ;)
Thanks very much! I'm going to start with the first method (hitting it!) until I have gathered the will and the tools to go through the second method 😂
@@takeitapartguy4670 At this stage, I actually only need to firmly push one side of the display to re-establish all connections... Maybe I'm not quite at the hitting phase yet 😂
Great stuff, just got a 2010 mk8 and one digit is out at the min. I'll have a go when I get more time, busy with the boot leak(s) at the moment. 🤣 Many thanks for the video.
@@yamyam3905All sorted, thanks. It was the roof gutter ends just under the hatch, the last place I tried. The seam had cracked, cleaned and ran some clear silicone in and that cured it. Its been dry for the last 10 months since doing it.
Damn. At least you know the process now and hopefully the panels come off more easily as they've been taken out once. I'm guessing the solder joint was too cold and brittle. Use more flux, and check out some soldering tutorials. It is tempting to just whack the temperature up on the iron, but that can cause the pads on the board to come off, then you have to run jumper wires, which is a pain. Got to be 5 years now since I filmed the footage, and mine is still fine. Rest of the car is falling to pieces around it though!
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
Hey mate, thanks for the great explanations. I have re-heated and re-flowed the pins solder (no additional solder). It solved the problems but after 2 weeks, the problem started again. What do you recommend ? Should I make solder addition to all pins or re-heating them again with flux ? and how I can understand it needs solder ? Since the pins are so small and close to each other, I am a bit concernful about the damage to solder region and short-cuts btw the pins. Thanks for helping
Hi Gencay, how annoying that you fixed it but then it failed again. I would think that you don't have enough solder on whichever pin(s) is the problem or that when you reflowed them it wasn't hot enough (cold solder joint) and as such the connection was too weak and broke again with vibrations from driving... If it were me I would test all of the connections with a multimeter and try and find the specific one (or ones) which are the problem then add more solder to them. Use the continuity mode on the multimeter and look for whichever pins have erratic continuity. If you add too much solder and short the pins then you'll need to melt the excess solder and remove it with a solder sucker or some solder wick. Using too much heat and damaging the pads is a much trickier thing to fix, so pretty much game over if that happens unless you have some serious soldering skills. Best to avoid getting things too hot, but you need enough heat so that you get a good connection. I'd go with a very hot iron but for a short period of time, rather than a medium hot iron for a long period. At least you know how to take everything apart this time, so shouldn't be as bad as the first time you fixed it!
@@takeitapartguy4670 thanks for the explanations. I already removed the parts and re-soldered them again with thin solder iron tip. This time I added extra solder to make sure that there is enough contact. now it is good again. Let's see the quality this time in the long term. Cheers ;)
my display doesn't show anything now, and i checked every pin with the multimeter and there were 2 with no connexion, i resolder them and all of them respond to multimeter but the display is still black, i'm pretty stuck, dunno what else to try, a fuse? i don't think there's a fuse just for this disolay
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
I've not heard of the audio display being coded to the vehicle. The stereo unit yes, and no doubt the ECU. eBay swap out should work, but I imagine you would be purchase a part from a written off car, so you won't necessarily know if the replacement part works, or it may have the same aged solder issue. Good luck! You could always get someone else to do the soldering, a decent PC repair shop should be able to fix your soldering effort pretty easily.
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
The problem I have is that the air conditioning is not reflected on the radio display, I checked all the connections and resolved the screen (the time and radio looks perfect) but when I turn on the A/C it works but it is not seen on the screen Do you know if there is an internal fuse or something... thanks for the video
Interesting. I have no knowledge about an internal fuse in the display. It wouldn't make any sense there to be one there as fuses are meant to be accessible for replacement, and the display is not easily accessible. Strange that everything else is displaying properly and just that specific section not working. A wiring diagram would help, then you could identify exactly which pins are related to the air con signal. Got to one available somewhere, it is just a pain finding that stuff because the EU model is different to the more common Civic MK VIII.
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
Hi, thanks. You can get those tools from all sorts of places, I probably got mine off of Amazon. Search for 'car spudgers' or 'car trim removal tools'. Just searching now I can see them on Amazon, Euro Car Parts, even Halfords, so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding something near you. Breaking the clips isn't too big of a deal, as you can break a few and not really notice, just be really careful not to crack the screens! Patience and controlled pressure is the key, very awkward to remove all the parts, especially when you can't see where all the clip points are.
I have a type r red display that doesnt work, and type s with blue display that works, however i want to scrap that type s car now so was thinking i could take the panel out and put it intot the type r.. would this work?!
Interesting question. I've never tried it, so can't say for sure. I would suspect that physically it would, as it would seem ridiculous if Honda wired them differently between the type R and the standard model. I believe stereo systems are coded to the individual vehicle and need unlocking if changed, I don't know if the same would apply to the clock. Worth doing some more research, or just try it out and see.
It is reasonable to assume that if the problem is the same, that the fix would be the same. I've not had to take the speedo display out, so can't give any advice other than investigate, Haynes manual or Google.
No, you wouldn't be able to melt the pins down with a soldering iron anyway. It has been a while and I should have zoomed in on the video. If there are pins then they are probably coming from the back, going through some holes in the PCB and then the solder is connecting them together. The pins are supposed to be there.
@@takeitapartguy4670 yes i noticed from few other vids there was pins on everyones and i manage to sort it anyway after 4 hours of soldering and a headache lmao had to redo all the solder coz i burnt them.. 1st time using soldering iron but i got there in the end and radio display is fixed if i can do it anyone can
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
@@takeitapartguy4670 I see. It turned out that this was the case with mine as well. Broken solder joints were clearly visible. Managed to fix it. Thanks for the great video and your reply.
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
I agree, I wish I had that on video! It was such a pain to do that we stopped filming and it was during that time I got it out. Wasn't going to put it back in to reshoot as I'm not a professional at this and concerned about breaking it. Getting the right amount of force in the right spots isn't easy.
Hey, thanks for the guide, it worked and now all the display sections work - no fading. But... Did you have any problems with the radio and AC control backlights?! I wouldn't think the middle display would affect those but after plugging it back in I noticed those had stopped working. I dont know for sure when they stopped (if they were not working before I did all that) but I definitely know they were working a few days ago and the timing makes me think it was reinstalling the display that somehow caused that. Any thoughts?
Hi there, I didn't have any issues with the backlights on the radio or AC buttons. I don't think that issue would be directly related, i.e. I'd assume the power to them isn't going to go via the display. Doing some quick searches people are talking about a bulb (looks more like LEDs to me than a filament bulb, but I don't know) burning out, or a fuse. I suppose it is possible that something could have blown whilst you took the display panel out. Might be worth checking fuses, but I'd expect that more items wouldn't be working if it was a fuse issue. This guy has a video about removing the whole radio, looks like he had a hard time, but it would at least show you how to get to it then you could look for any blown bulbs ua-cam.com/video/991pwUfsU3g/v-deo.html let us know how you get on if you fix it as no doubt other people have the same issue, much like with the audio display. Good luck!
@@takeitapartguy4670 thanks for the reply, thats what I was thinking as well, would be weird if power was going directly through that display as it would have to go in and come out for no reason since that single connector just looked to me like it was for powering the lcd and giving instructions. Thanks for the help and link, will update if I get it fixed and figure out the cause
@@biser1 Glad to hear the backlights are working again, I hope it stays that way too. For something to work one day but not the other and vice versa, suggests a loose connection to the power or a loose connection causing a ground fault on that circuit. Fingers crossed for you!
Hi, if the solder connect the pin you are soldering with the one next to it, the reflow and remove the solder. You can get something called 'solder wick', which is a copper mesh that flowing solder will get absorbed into. Or you can get this plastic button vacuum thing that sucks up extra solder. Whatever way, you do not want to reinstall the unit if you have bridged two pins that are not supposed to be connected. If unit won't work properly as you've changed the circuitry by bridging the pins. Best case, it just acts weird or blows a fuse, worst case something gets damaged. Either way, sort it out before reinstalling.
I would say thank you for the offer but I'd probably charge more than Honda would to make it worth the hassle! I fixed mine 4 years ago and it is still working perfectly today,. I'd be nervous trying it out on someone else's though incase I made it worse, cracked the screen, or the fix didn't work because the problem was something else. If you want to drive it down to West Sussex for the day I'd happily work through it with you in exchange for a pub lunch, but I wouldn't do it for money as if you are paying someone money you expect them to do the job right, and I wouldn't offer any guarantees!
I've done all the instruction and even bought a second hand as it wasn't working but both display had light on only around the edges. Anyone have any idea where the fault would be? Maybe a fuse?
Always worth checking the fuse. If both units are exhibiting the same behavior, then as you are thinking, the problem is likely outside of the unit. Other than the fuse I would check the pins that the unit connects to, but on the car side. Check those for voltage with a multimeter. Car electricals run on 12v, so I would expect to see 12v on at least one of the pins once you identify that and the ground pin. If you see anything other than 12v, or cant find any voltage, then that would be a clue.
No secret, just wouldn't have had enough storage on my SD card for how long it took me to get the damn panel out. With my other half filming my incompetence, it was less stressful to turn it off until I got it.
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me... @@YZY_RAP
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
Given that the intermittent display issue is the result of a bad connection, then no display at all is likely a completely broken connection, i.e. it isn't getting any power at all. Either that or you've somehow fried a chip on the PCB, which is unlikely unless there was lots of static electricity about. Check the continuity on all of the solder joints again, if you find one that doesn't have continuity then that is the culprit.
If the used display works then sure, I don't see why not. As far as I know the display isn't coded to a particular vehicle. I believe stereos are linked to the vehicle and have to be reset, but the LCD should just be a swappable part. No guarantee that the used display will work correctly though.
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know? Thanks
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
Having watched this video I have done mine just now , followed the exam same method and yes as mentioned in the video , you need to add a little force . I was more concerned about scratching or bending the plastic with the removal tool , however I added a bit cloth on the prying tool to avoid any dents . The main clock display is a bit tough but to make it easier watch the video and see where the clips are on the back side , that where the additional pressure is required . I hope my 2 pence worth helps .
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
the most complete tutorial on internet ! thanks for all the work
You are welcome, happy to be able to help others fix the problem.
Awesome video, really helped in understanding the rootcause and then apply the fix
Fixed my display using the video as a guide
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
Must be a good feeling when all the efforts pay off and it works. Good job!
I found the panel comes out easier by releasing/pulling on the left hand side first and then the right side after and remove from both ends once initially released from the two clips on each end. Releasing the right hand end first causes the left hand end to jam up. The way the clips are designed,the panel has to come out and refit parallel to the facia.
Thanks a lot. Very good explained. Fixed it in about 20 min.
I've had this problem for 1 year and I finally fixed it. Thank you for such an awesome video man!
I'm pleased it helped, nice job on the fix!
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
Good tutorial thanks. I found all my pins made contact, but some only after moving under pressure of the probe of multimeter. So I soldered all those which moved when poked. Works ok so far
Brilliant video on fixing the faulty display.
Thank you for this video, followed your video and mine is working great! Thanks again
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips...
Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
Thank you ! It worked ! I watched your video and fixed my display in the same way.
Many thanks from Germany!
That is great to hear, good job! It is so annoying when the display keeps fading out.
I complete it succesfully by you. Thank you so much.
Started doing the same repair and it became very obvious that someone has been inside this unit before. Anyway, great instructions!
Great guide, got the trim panels off a lot easier with your advice.
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
Worked perfectly!!! Thanks my guy!!!👌👌👌
Awesome video.. thank you for sharing. Helped me to fix it myself with any problems 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks for sharing dude it was detailed and helpful
Thanks for the video. My 56 plate has this issue but also has the same problem with the backlight for the rev counter, other than this and a water leak that i cannot locate its been a great car for 5 years!
Good old Hondas. None of this new fangled electric vehicle, charge looses 50% if it is cold, quick charge costs more than petrol nonsense. Keep the Honda running until cars are powered by Mr Fusion.
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.
I just fixed my car's screen by resoldering all the pins. Thank you very much for such a detailed video!
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now.
Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial, very useful! As you mention, some parts and clips are very frustrating to remove... I've managed to get both speedometer and radio screen stuck with each other (I could only remove the speedometer clip close to the radio screen), cracking the plastic part of the speedometer on the opposite side plus the central pin (so the more I pull, the more it breaks). I had to leave them like that because now I cannot put them back as they were and pulling them with all my strength does't seem to work. I'll try again tomorrow, hoping for a miracle...
How did you get on, find your miracle? Sorry to hear that the speedometer cracked on you. They are nightmare things to get out. Probably easy if you've worked in the factory assembling them and know exactly where all the clips are and what the right technique is. But trying to figure it out blind (or even with a UA-cam video) is extremely difficult.
I did this today.
Getting the panels out took about 15 mins. But you really did have to yank on them to get them out. Plastic trim tools are a must. Although, the LCD panel broke two of mine!
Resoldering was very fiddly, not helped by my oxidised soldering tip that I had to sandpaper to get the heat transfer going. But once you get the knack, it doesn’t take too long to do them all.
Here’s hoping I’ll never have to do that again.
Awesome, I'm really glad to hear you fixed yours! Getting the screens out is definitely the hardest part.
Thanks for video, helped me replace mine.
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
On my 2007 Honda this method worked fine
Thanks for the video, I can confirm that it's all true. Here's what I just did on my car
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
Great tutorial but when you listed ‘ability to not lost your temper’ I realised I probably ought to get someone else to tackle it. 😂
Ha, got the same issue on my 2007, might give it ago at some point looks a bit of a faf though.
I also getting my window that won't wind down fixed and dash blower that won't turn off fixed at garage.
Great cars motor wise, its just all the other stuff thats failing like electronics.
So what you're saying is that hitting it DOES work...
great video. thanks!!
2:50 is the most understated ammount of frustration I've ever had... That display clip on the left is hell.
Yep, dismantling it is a serious pain. I'm currently in the process of changing a dead ABS sensor. Corrosion and rust welds, a different type of frustration.
Dankeschön!
Thanks, it will help me !
Great, let me know if you have any questions. It is a pretty simple process but it is damn hard judging the right amount of force to use to remove all the panels and pry the hidden clips out.
Thank you, followed this tutorial, just a quick tip, if you use a lot of resin on the pins, that solders perfectly back everything, uk Hull I can help ;)
I solder all the time at work, but I must say getting the plastic off looks terrifying. I hope it goes well.
Thanks very much! I'm going to start with the first method (hitting it!) until I have gathered the will and the tools to go through the second method 😂
The hitting method worked well for me for a good 2 years or so! Only problem was I kept having to hit it more and more often...
@@takeitapartguy4670 At this stage, I actually only need to firmly push one side of the display to re-establish all connections... Maybe I'm not quite at the hitting phase yet 😂
Worked for me!
Great stuff, just got a 2010 mk8 and one digit is out at the min. I'll have a go when I get more time, busy with the boot leak(s) at the moment. 🤣 Many thanks for the video.
Have you fixed your boot leaks ? I Got 1 or 2 suggestions if you haven't .
@@yamyam3905All sorted, thanks. It was the roof gutter ends just under the hatch, the last place I tried. The seam had cracked, cleaned and ran some clear silicone in and that cured it. Its been dry for the last 10 months since doing it.
@@DARTraderMediaProductions good to hear 👍
Thank you, i'm gonna try!
Your solder seem very precise, what is the brand/model?
Hi, it was just a basic soldering iron I picked up in a hardware store. B&Q if you live in the UK.
I need to do this to mine again. My repair lasted about 6months before the display segments started breaking up again.
Damn. At least you know the process now and hopefully the panels come off more easily as they've been taken out once. I'm guessing the solder joint was too cold and brittle. Use more flux, and check out some soldering tutorials. It is tempting to just whack the temperature up on the iron, but that can cause the pads on the board to come off, then you have to run jumper wires, which is a pain. Got to be 5 years now since I filmed the footage, and mine is still fine. Rest of the car is falling to pieces around it though!
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
Hey mate, thanks for the great explanations. I have re-heated and re-flowed the pins solder (no additional solder). It solved the problems but after 2 weeks, the problem started again. What do you recommend ? Should I make solder addition to all pins or re-heating them again with flux ? and how I can understand it needs solder ? Since the pins are so small and close to each other, I am a bit concernful about the damage to solder region and short-cuts btw the pins. Thanks for helping
Hi Gencay, how annoying that you fixed it but then it failed again. I would think that you don't have enough solder on whichever pin(s) is the problem or that when you reflowed them it wasn't hot enough (cold solder joint) and as such the connection was too weak and broke again with vibrations from driving...
If it were me I would test all of the connections with a multimeter and try and find the specific one (or ones) which are the problem then add more solder to them. Use the continuity mode on the multimeter and look for whichever pins have erratic continuity.
If you add too much solder and short the pins then you'll need to melt the excess solder and remove it with a solder sucker or some solder wick. Using too much heat and damaging the pads is a much trickier thing to fix, so pretty much game over if that happens unless you have some serious soldering skills. Best to avoid getting things too hot, but you need enough heat so that you get a good connection. I'd go with a very hot iron but for a short period of time, rather than a medium hot iron for a long period.
At least you know how to take everything apart this time, so shouldn't be as bad as the first time you fixed it!
@@takeitapartguy4670 thanks for the explanations. I already removed the parts and re-soldered them again with thin solder iron tip. This time I added extra solder to make sure that there is enough contact. now it is good again. Let's see the quality this time in the long term. Cheers ;)
my display doesn't show anything now, and i checked every pin with the multimeter and there were 2 with no connexion, i resolder them and all of them respond to multimeter but the display is still black, i'm pretty stuck, dunno what else to try, a fuse? i don't think there's a fuse just for this disolay
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
I've not heard of the audio display being coded to the vehicle. The stereo unit yes, and no doubt the ECU. eBay swap out should work, but I imagine you would be purchase a part from a written off car, so you won't necessarily know if the replacement part works, or it may have the same aged solder issue. Good luck! You could always get someone else to do the soldering, a decent PC repair shop should be able to fix your soldering effort pretty easily.
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
Sorry, no idea how that is done, and it isn't a mod I'm interested in doing on my car, so no something I would do.
The problem I have is that the air conditioning is not reflected on the radio display, I checked all the connections and resolved the screen (the time and radio looks perfect) but when I turn on the A/C it works but it is not seen on the screen Do you know if there is an internal fuse or something... thanks for the video
Interesting. I have no knowledge about an internal fuse in the display. It wouldn't make any sense there to be one there as fuses are meant to be accessible for replacement, and the display is not easily accessible. Strange that everything else is displaying properly and just that specific section not working. A wiring diagram would help, then you could identify exactly which pins are related to the air con signal. Got to one available somewhere, it is just a pain finding that stuff because the EU model is different to the more common Civic MK VIII.
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
The clips are definitely the worst part of the job. No big deal if one breaks though, other ways to secure it, and not visible 🙂
hi, gr8 tutorial - where do you get the tools to remove clips from - its my biggest worry!
Hi, thanks. You can get those tools from all sorts of places, I probably got mine off of Amazon. Search for 'car spudgers' or 'car trim removal tools'. Just searching now I can see them on Amazon, Euro Car Parts, even Halfords, so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding something near you. Breaking the clips isn't too big of a deal, as you can break a few and not really notice, just be really careful not to crack the screens! Patience and controlled pressure is the key, very awkward to remove all the parts, especially when you can't see where all the clip points are.
I have a type r red display that doesnt work, and type s with blue display that works, however i want to scrap that type s car now so was thinking i could take the panel out and put it intot the type r.. would this work?!
Interesting question. I've never tried it, so can't say for sure. I would suspect that physically it would, as it would seem ridiculous if Honda wired them differently between the type R and the standard model. I believe stereo systems are coded to the individual vehicle and need unlocking if changed, I don't know if the same would apply to the clock. Worth doing some more research, or just try it out and see.
What is the name of the plastic tool that you used to remove the display ?
It is known as a spudger or a trim removal tool.
I've the same problem in the rpm section behind the steering wheel... There's a fix also for this?
It is reasonable to assume that if the problem is the same, that the fix would be the same. I've not had to take the speedo display out, so can't give any advice other than investigate, Haynes manual or Google.
I though that repairing display will be the hardest part, but removing speedo was impossible, it just wouldn't come out, so I gave up
5:30 the bit hes soldering on mine has spikey pins sticking out am i supposed to melt them down?
No, you wouldn't be able to melt the pins down with a soldering iron anyway. It has been a while and I should have zoomed in on the video. If there are pins then they are probably coming from the back, going through some holes in the PCB and then the solder is connecting them together. The pins are supposed to be there.
@@takeitapartguy4670 yes i noticed from few other vids there was pins on everyones and i manage to sort it anyway after 4 hours of soldering and a headache lmao had to redo all the solder coz i burnt them.. 1st time using soldering iron but i got there in the end and radio display is fixed if i can do it anyone can
I'm wondering what if just that main connector going into this panel has a contact issue? How do we know that it's the solder joints?
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
@@takeitapartguy4670 I see. It turned out that this was the case with mine as well. Broken solder joints were clearly visible. Managed to fix it. Thanks for the great video and your reply.
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
What type of connector is it on the back of the display?
No idea what it's official name is.
How am I actually supposed to get the speedo display out? Would of been nice to see how you achieved this....
I agree, I wish I had that on video! It was such a pain to do that we stopped filming and it was during that time I got it out. Wasn't going to put it back in to reshoot as I'm not a professional at this and concerned about breaking it. Getting the right amount of force in the right spots isn't easy.
Hey, thanks for the guide, it worked and now all the display sections work - no fading. But... Did you have any problems with the radio and AC control backlights?! I wouldn't think the middle display would affect those but after plugging it back in I noticed those had stopped working. I dont know for sure when they stopped (if they were not working before I did all that) but I definitely know they were working a few days ago and the timing makes me think it was reinstalling the display that somehow caused that. Any thoughts?
Hi there, I didn't have any issues with the backlights on the radio or AC buttons. I don't think that issue would be directly related, i.e. I'd assume the power to them isn't going to go via the display. Doing some quick searches people are talking about a bulb (looks more like LEDs to me than a filament bulb, but I don't know) burning out, or a fuse. I suppose it is possible that something could have blown whilst you took the display panel out. Might be worth checking fuses, but I'd expect that more items wouldn't be working if it was a fuse issue. This guy has a video about removing the whole radio, looks like he had a hard time, but it would at least show you how to get to it then you could look for any blown bulbs ua-cam.com/video/991pwUfsU3g/v-deo.html let us know how you get on if you fix it as no doubt other people have the same issue, much like with the audio display. Good luck!
@@takeitapartguy4670 thanks for the reply, thats what I was thinking as well, would be weird if power was going directly through that display as it would have to go in and come out for no reason since that single connector just looked to me like it was for powering the lcd and giving instructions. Thanks for the help and link, will update if I get it fixed and figure out the cause
Hi, update on that, it's working now, I didn't change anything I just noticed today that all the backlights work again. Hope it stays that way lol
@@biser1 Glad to hear the backlights are working again, I hope it stays that way too. For something to work one day but not the other and vice versa, suggests a loose connection to the power or a loose connection causing a ground fault on that circuit. Fingers crossed for you!
it is easier to remove the plastics if you heat them slightly
Hi what would happen if the solder connects with the next pin cheers
Hi, if the solder connect the pin you are soldering with the one next to it, the reflow and remove the solder. You can get something called 'solder wick', which is a copper mesh that flowing solder will get absorbed into. Or you can get this plastic button vacuum thing that sucks up extra solder. Whatever way, you do not want to reinstall the unit if you have bridged two pins that are not supposed to be connected. If unit won't work properly as you've changed the circuitry by bridging the pins. Best case, it just acts weird or blows a fuse, worst case something gets damaged. Either way, sort it out before reinstalling.
Thank you
I'm from the UK in London what would you say if I was to pay you to fix mine?
I would say thank you for the offer but I'd probably charge more than Honda would to make it worth the hassle! I fixed mine 4 years ago and it is still working perfectly today,. I'd be nervous trying it out on someone else's though incase I made it worse, cracked the screen, or the fix didn't work because the problem was something else. If you want to drive it down to West Sussex for the day I'd happily work through it with you in exchange for a pub lunch, but I wouldn't do it for money as if you are paying someone money you expect them to do the job right, and I wouldn't offer any guarantees!
Yep may radio display work now, but my kmh don't work showing zero all the time
I've done all the instruction and even bought a second hand as it wasn't working but both display had light on only around the edges.
Anyone have any idea where the fault would be? Maybe a fuse?
Always worth checking the fuse. If both units are exhibiting the same behavior, then as you are thinking, the problem is likely outside of the unit. Other than the fuse I would check the pins that the unit connects to, but on the car side. Check those for voltage with a multimeter. Car electricals run on 12v, so I would expect to see 12v on at least one of the pins once you identify that and the ground pin. If you see anything other than 12v, or cant find any voltage, then that would be a clue.
Nice cut off at 3:12. Is there any secret which one you don't want to show?
No secret, just wouldn't have had enough storage on my SD card for how long it took me to get the damn panel out. With my other half filming my incompetence, it was less stressful to turn it off until I got it.
Same issue here
Kind of wish it was possible to delete that little display entirely. An aftermarket double din head unit renders it useless anyway
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
@@takeitapartguy4670 it's fixed, I got the contact of a person who could apply new solder and all and he fixed it. It's awesome
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me...
@@YZY_RAP
@@takeitapartguy4670 oh well, who knows 😅 what's important is it's fixed and was cheap 😄
The speedometer struggle is real, i broke mine and now my moms gonna kill me.
After watching this video I decided to call my display a loss and use and old smartphone with a speed display app instead.
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
I tried to do this but unfortunately my display is now completely dead. I had the same problem but now it doesn't work at all :(
Given that the intermittent display issue is the result of a bad connection, then no display at all is likely a completely broken connection, i.e. it isn't getting any power at all. Either that or you've somehow fried a chip on the PCB, which is unlikely unless there was lots of static electricity about. Check the continuity on all of the solder joints again, if you find one that doesn't have continuity then that is the culprit.
maybe u changed your 2din in same time and u didn't used the green plug which powers the lcd
Hi, is anyone in the London area that would be willing to fix this for me ? Obviously would pay for it to be done
Could you get away with just fitting a used display off ebay? I've never soldered before.
If the used display works then sure, I don't see why not. As far as I know the display isn't coded to a particular vehicle. I believe stereos are linked to the vehicle and have to be reset, but the LCD should just be a swappable part. No guarantee that the used display will work correctly though.
Test it first before you assemble the whole dash
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again
I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference
Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know?
Thanks