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TakeItApartGuy
Приєднався 25 тра 2021
Selling on Etsy, looking at fees
A detailed look at all of the transactions involved in my first Etsy sale. It isn't quite the 5% fee that is advertised.
Переглядів: 21
Відео
UPDATE - UGHEY 2300ml Dehumidifier - Amazon - FAULTY
Переглядів 2,1 тис.3 роки тому
An update on a video from another channel. This dehumidifier would periodically stop working, meaning it would just turn off and refuse to turn back on again. I thought that maybe the fuse had blown, but testing the fuse it was always fine and putting the same fuse back in often resulted in the unit coming back to life. The video was uploaded to demonstrate the problem to Auzkin customer servic...
Godzilla vs Kong - Movie Review - Spoiler Free
Переглядів 43 роки тому
Reviewing the 2021 Godzilla vs Kong movie, no spoilers.
FIXED! Honda Civic LCD Display Problems and Repair
Переглядів 76 тис.3 роки тому
An overview of display issues with a Honda Civic European Mark VIII audio display / clock. I talk you through how to take the display out and how to fix it.
Mortal Kombat (2021) - Movie Review - Spoiler Free
Переглядів 103 роки тому
A review of the 2021 reboot movie Mortal Kombat, based on the popular video game series.
Thank you for your service
Just putting this here for future reference. 2:42 The actual clock display it's very hard to remove on the opposing side of the speedo, that top clip is a b. An easier way is to slide a long zip behind it on the left side. Use the wall of the console to guide it down, then pull both ends of the zip tie towards you.
Best video! Thanks
Not directly relevant but any ideas on how to change the time and date on the display WITHOUT the stock radio unit? The Civic I bought only had an aftermarket radio built in, and I suppose due to the car not being used for a while, the battery was dead at one point which reset the time and date to the default values. I have no idea how to update it..
No ideas that you probably already haven't thought of or tried. Must be some combination of the buttons. Best bet is to try and find the manufacturer of the unit and search for a manual or contacts details to ask them directly.
@takeitapartguy4670 I assumed the wiring responsible for the date/time adjustment was simply left unconnected to the aftermarket head unit :/
Best!
Thanks man, Mine has the same problem excited to try fixing it
Thank you for a tutorial! Everything works. I am a girl and didn't brake even a one nail off. 🥰
🤣 did better than me then!
Danke dir, die beste Anleitung im Netz
Got to do this to mine tomorrow hope it works
Simple and concise. Thanks.
Now i found a detail instruction! Thanks so much! Now i can DIY my civic display
I wish I found this video earlier! After riding around for two years with a broken screen I’ve finally found a fix. It’s working for now and hoping it will for a long time. Thank you for the helpful video/tutorial! €40,- fix instead of €450,- for a replacement screen.
That's great! Dealers and Garages always want to just replace the whole thing, rather than do 5 minutes of soldering.
Just watched this video, similar issue with my 2008 car so will try it out. Did you ever have any problems with speedo flickering on dislay? Problem with mine. Do you know of fix. Thanks
I wonder if this is the same issue the US version has. The HUD LCD is a bit different but it's not too far fetched that it's the same issue.
How much this will costbin a mechanic?
How much would it cost to have a mechanic do it? The reason I did it myself is that most mechanics won't do this type of repair work. The Honda dealership will just want to replace the entire display. When I looked up the part no, it was £600+ just for the display, if I remember correctly. If you can find a mechanic that will do it, it entirely depends on their hourly rate. As it is a fiddly job, I'd say 2 hours.
I just fixed the car of my mother following this method! I had been several years without this screen! I struggled in the same steps as you did, but managed after a few minutes. If I could give you 10 thumbs up I would. Thanks a lot man! 😊
Nice! Good way to impress your Mum with crazy car repair skills.
Hi there, when you solder do you need to ensure the solder at each pin wont touch any of others?
Hi, yes, the solder points must not touch their neighboring pins. That is known as 'bridging', and will basically short circuit the board when power is supplied as signals will be travelling over the bridge to places they shouldn't, then kaput.
@@takeitapartguy4670 Great guide, thank you. I had the same question about the solder points bridging. When I saw you using a single test point on the board,it made me think the solder joints were common.
Great guide, can't wait to try this myself! Though i have a question, can this method be applied on the "888" digital speedometer problem? Can't seem to find a video on how to fix it. A temporary fix is a big smack on the dash but it's only well...temporary. Cheers for the video!
If smacking the speedometer fixes the 888 display problem, then it sounds like it is the same sort of issue. I was hitting my stereo display for over a year, with it gradually needing to be hit more and more often, until I decided to fix it. The hitting works because it vibrates the loose/broken connection back into contact. Given the poor soldering on one display, the workmanship is likely the same on the speedo.
Thank you! That helped. But I did damaged some of the pins. Is it even possible to perfectly open those panels considering plastic is 18 years old 😆 I guess in that battle - metal clips VS plastic - the winner is obvious...
and yes accurate resoldering around 90 board pins sucks, but is totally worth it!
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
Kind of wish it was possible to delete that little display entirely. An aftermarket double din head unit renders it useless anyway
Yep may radio display work now, but my kmh don't work showing zero all the time
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know? Thanks
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
The speedometer struggle is real, i broke mine and now my moms gonna kill me.
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
Awesome video.. thank you for sharing. Helped me to fix it myself with any problems 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
@@takeitapartguy4670 it's fixed, I got the contact of a person who could apply new solder and all and he fixed it. It's awesome
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me... @@YZY_RAP
@@takeitapartguy4670 oh well, who knows 😅 what's important is it's fixed and was cheap 😄
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
After watching this video I decided to call my display a loss and use and old smartphone with a speed display app instead.
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
I'm wondering what if just that main connector going into this panel has a contact issue? How do we know that it's the solder joints?
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
@@takeitapartguy4670 I see. It turned out that this was the case with mine as well. Broken solder joints were clearly visible. Managed to fix it. Thanks for the great video and your reply.
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
Sorry, no idea how that is done, and it isn't a mod I'm interested in doing on my car, so no something I would do.
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
I've not heard of the audio display being coded to the vehicle. The stereo unit yes, and no doubt the ECU. eBay swap out should work, but I imagine you would be purchase a part from a written off car, so you won't necessarily know if the replacement part works, or it may have the same aged solder issue. Good luck! You could always get someone else to do the soldering, a decent PC repair shop should be able to fix your soldering effort pretty easily.
Thanks for video, helped me replace mine.
Hi, is anyone in the London area that would be willing to fix this for me ? Obviously would pay for it to be done
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now. Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
What type of connector is it on the back of the display?
No idea what it's official name is.
Dankeschön!
Thanks a lot. Very good explained. Fixed it in about 20 min.
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips... Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
Awesome video, really helped in understanding the rootcause and then apply the fix Fixed my display using the video as a guide
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
I've the same problem in the rpm section behind the steering wheel... There's a fix also for this?
It is reasonable to assume that if the problem is the same, that the fix would be the same. I've not had to take the speedo display out, so can't give any advice other than investigate, Haynes manual or Google.
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
The clips are definitely the worst part of the job. No big deal if one breaks though, other ways to secure it, and not visible 🙂
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.