No problem. They are a good engine but do suffer with the same problems. Ive looked after alot of transit vans with the same engine thats done over 200,000 miles without any problems
Excellent video. Need you to come to Peru now to help me with my 2015 Puma. I will be very interested to hear how it goes in the future. The clutch design if the Puma is an issue that I believe still needs to be upgraded further. Thank you again for such detail and tips shared.
Talking about greased splines.. have you checked your half shafts into drive flanges. Mine are dry as a bone from the factory and have worn. I'm looking forward to seeing you put that whole lot back in the chassis. I thought getting the engine out on it's own was tight.
Yes I changed them about 2 week before the clutch gave up! I changed them for the one peice Britpart shafts before i started doing videos. They need to come back out as i am going to do discs and pads on the rear and i mention the shafts. Shocking how nothing is greased from the factory really!
Thats is a good idea but the coupling is the wrong type of metal to rely on oil to stop wear. Oil will be too thin for the coupling so eventually it would only speed up the wear process when the oil starts going silty with metal fragments from the coupling wearing. Where as grease is really thick and in some cases prevents the coupling moving as much as it been submerged in oil. With grease been so thick it provides suficcient lubrication for when the coupling dose move for example changing gear. It would be a better way but the whole casting would have to be re designed. In fairness to only issue is the factory didnt grease it and thats why they wear out
That is what the Ashcroft MT82 output shaft is designed to do - circulates oil from gearbox through there. works a treat - check out Ashcroft Engineering, UK
Put this same clutch in this January and a few days ago the clutch pedal went down and stayed down (original issue that made me change the clutch in the first place). The fluid is completely black and seems to be going somewhere but no visible leaks under the car. Spoke to Luke. Really helpful guy. Will see what my mechanic says. Any ideas?
Sounds like the Master cylinder or slave cylinder is failing. One way to check the master cylinder is clamp off the hose going into the gearbox and gently press the clutch pedal. Of it creeps down then the seals are failing in your master cylinder. If it stays solid then I would go for the slave cylinder at fault.
@@lifes.projects Yeah. Was the master. Mech put in a britpart when I changed the clutch in January. Got a LR original one in now. Only got the car back yesterday.
great video very clear, thanks you for taking the time to do so. any of the bolts ( flywheel, release bearing etc) need to be torque tightened or is hand tight enough? thank you
Thank you. The slave cylinder is 10nm, the clutch pressure plate is 30nm and the flywheel is 3 stages Stage 1: 23nm Stage 2: 40nm Stage 3: 48 degrees Thats the official but for the slave and pressure plate hand tight is fine. The flywheel is around 120nn after with all the stage but as long as you do them opposite with loctite on and double check them all after the last one they arnt going anywhere 👌
Hey there, i also just fitted a new clutch from LOF and have some vibrations when changing gears and accelerating. Did you experience the same? Also, why did you not use the a torque setting at the at clutch. I think 29Nm is written in the handbook?
Hi Tom, I thought we were supposed to replace the flywheel bolts according to the manual? I'm guessing it's only because they have thread lock on them? Really??? A cable tie to hold that shield on??? Come on Ford!! I cannot believe how crap the manual is for the 07 on Defender!! It doesnt even mention bearing clearances!!
Think thats mainly to cover themselves if it vibrates loose. 9 times out of 10 you dont get new bolts in any flywheel kit. Ive always put locktight on and never had an issue. Haha yes just a little cable tie holding the plastic on. It wont be under much strain when its turning because of the plastic been so light but yes after a while i could imagine it going brittle and breaking but we will see. I havent got the manual but your not the first person ive heard to say that!
Back in 1986 I had a Morris Marina which started making a knocking noise at 103,000 miles. It turned out to be small end failure so I changed the offending parts (and a few others) and it was fine afterwards. I have a Defender now which started making the same noise at 150,000 miles. I purchased a rebuild kit but when I dismantled the engine there was very little wrong with it. I fitted the parts from the kit anyway and after further advice I identified the real cause of the noise which was failed injectors. Regarding the flywheel retaining bolts on my 2.4 Puma engine, I reused the same bolts too and they were fine. The vehicle has now covered over 160,000 miles and I am changing the chassis. I'm renewing the rear crankshaft oil seal at the same time (again) as I obviously did not do it properly during the 150,000 mile rebuild. So I am reusing the same bolts for the 2nd time now. If the flywheel falls off I will let you know.
Tom good day, been watching your repairs on ypur TDCI. I am a recent owner of a 2008 2.4 TDCI with about 96,000miles on the clock. I took it to the RAC equivalent here in Switzerland and had the following remarks made on the condition of the Puma: 'engine to be adjusted, the engine speed remains accelerated when changing gears' & 'hard working clutch'. what would be your recommendations on what i should look to do? Thanks Peter
The clutch switch is at fault. Have a look under the bonnet at your clutch pedal mounting. Their is a little black two pin switch attached to the lutch master cylinder. If that stops working the ecu dosent know when you are changing gear and causes the engine to rev. Sometimes if you removed them and spray some penatrating oil inside they will work until you get a replacement.
@@lifes.projects thank you Tom, I gave it a go, it appeared clean however I sprayed it and will see if there is any change until i have it checked at 1st opportunity. I am also interested to go for the lof hd clutch and the lof output shaft however i do not know if this is something i should do now proactivelely or wait till i have a clutch issue.
@@peterpontikos3786 if you are using the Defender for everyday things I would wait until it either feels worn or you have a fault before changing. If you are doing large trips or heavy towing then I would think about doing it before you have a fault. Preventitive maintenance when working hard is always good.
@@lifes.projects thank you Tom for taking the time to give me your insight, i do go on long trips , i do not tow however the way the car was at the time i bought it, it is top heavy; a steel full roof rack and a roof top tent. not to happy about that but very difficult to take it off on my own. I just watched your news on the surgery, hope you are better and going back to a normal life.All the best!
I purchased a Defender new in 2008. The engine speed increased as I was changing gear. The main agent tried to fix it twice by renewing the fuel control valve but this only produced a temporary fix. They then recalled it for an upgrade to the engine management software and this fixed the problem for good. The vehicle has now covered just over 160,000 miles with no further problems with the RPM increasing as I change gear. This information is in the public domain. Your main agent must know about it and will be able to apply the fix for you.
With respect you can't really compare the clutch springs on the two clutches when one is new and the other has already failed! Look at the new clutch after 5 years of service and then you will get a meaningful comparison. A general problem with buying parts is how do we know what the quality is really like? Any manufacturer can call his clutch "heavy duty" but the only real test is to use it in service. And of course we, the poor customers, are the ones to suffer if it's poor quality.
Yes fully agree with you although having worked in a few garages the customers sometimes like to supply their own clutches therefore i have fitted the cheapest nastiest clutches they can get their hands on no matter how much i try to convince them otherwise. The cheap clutches usually have less fingers and are alot lighter. Just from looking at them you can tell they are poor quality and 3 months down the line you can guarantee they will come back with clutch judder or poor gear selection.
@@lifes.projects The one item where one should never economise is the clutch because of the greatly unequal costs of parts and labour. Of course if one has a heavy vehicie (Defender 110 or 130) with a high output engine like the Puma the clutch is going to do a lot of work. My Defender 90, which is modestly powered, has a heavy duty clutch which should give me a very good life. The last clutch was replaced after 80,000 km because I was doing a gearbox swap and it had no appreciable wear.
Thanks for breaking the ice on UA-cam regarding the PUMA Defender engines...
No problem. They are a good engine but do suffer with the same problems. Ive looked after alot of transit vans with the same engine thats done over 200,000 miles without any problems
Fantastic step by step video. Thank you!
LOF clutches are excellent, I agree. I still haven’t fitted my output shaft so some good advice here.
Thank you. The clutch has had some work so far 💪
This is great. Love all the detail and the little tips. You have given me the confidence to get on with my own project. Thanks
Thank you thats Great. Thats what the channels all about.
Thank you very much for all the very informative videos!!
Thank you 👍
Excellent video. Need you to come to Peru now to help me with my 2015 Puma. I will be very interested to hear how it goes in the future. The clutch design if the Puma is an issue that I believe still needs to be upgraded further. Thank you again for such detail and tips shared.
Talking about greased splines.. have you checked your half shafts into drive flanges. Mine are dry as a bone from the factory and have worn. I'm looking forward to seeing you put that whole lot back in the chassis. I thought getting the engine out on it's own was tight.
Yes I changed them about 2 week before the clutch gave up! I changed them for the one peice Britpart shafts before i started doing videos. They need to come back out as i am going to do discs and pads on the rear and i mention the shafts. Shocking how nothing is greased from the factory really!
How about while the gearbox and transfer case is appart you modify it to be filled with gear oil to facilitate lubrication of the spline.
Thats is a good idea but the coupling is the wrong type of metal to rely on oil to stop wear. Oil will be too thin for the coupling so eventually it would only speed up the wear process when the oil starts going silty with metal fragments from the coupling wearing.
Where as grease is really thick and in some cases prevents the coupling moving as much as it been submerged in oil. With grease been so thick it provides suficcient lubrication for when the coupling dose move for example changing gear.
It would be a better way but the whole casting would have to be re designed.
In fairness to only issue is the factory didnt grease it and thats why they wear out
That is what the Ashcroft MT82 output shaft is designed to do - circulates oil from gearbox through there. works a treat - check out Ashcroft Engineering, UK
Put this same clutch in this January and a few days ago the clutch pedal went down and stayed down (original issue that made me change the clutch in the first place). The fluid is completely black and seems to be going somewhere but no visible leaks under the car. Spoke to Luke. Really helpful guy. Will see what my mechanic says.
Any ideas?
Sounds like the Master cylinder or slave cylinder is failing. One way to check the master cylinder is clamp off the hose going into the gearbox and gently press the clutch pedal. Of it creeps down then the seals are failing in your master cylinder. If it stays solid then I would go for the slave cylinder at fault.
@@lifes.projects Yeah. Was the master. Mech put in a britpart when I changed the clutch in January. Got a LR original one in now. Only got the car back yesterday.
great video very clear, thanks you for taking the time to do so.
any of the bolts ( flywheel, release bearing etc) need to be torque tightened or is hand tight enough? thank you
Thank you. The slave cylinder is 10nm, the clutch pressure plate is 30nm and the flywheel is 3 stages
Stage 1: 23nm
Stage 2: 40nm
Stage 3: 48 degrees
Thats the official but for the slave and pressure plate hand tight is fine. The flywheel is around 120nn after with all the stage but as long as you do them opposite with loctite on and double check them all after the last one they arnt going anywhere 👌
Hey there, i also just fitted a new clutch from LOF and have some vibrations when changing gears and accelerating. Did you experience the same? Also, why did you not use the a torque setting at the at clutch. I think 29Nm is written in the handbook?
confusion ,thats solid mast ,i thought they were dual as standard so no clutch springs?
On the 2.2 they are duel mass. On the 2.4 they are solid mass on land rovers
@@lifes.projects My 2.4 Puma has an ordinary flywheel too.
Hi Tom, I thought we were supposed to replace the flywheel bolts according to the manual? I'm guessing it's only because they have thread lock on them? Really??? A cable tie to hold that shield on??? Come on Ford!!
I cannot believe how crap the manual is for the 07 on Defender!! It doesnt even mention bearing clearances!!
Think thats mainly to cover themselves if it vibrates loose. 9 times out of 10 you dont get new bolts in any flywheel kit. Ive always put locktight on and never had an issue.
Haha yes just a little cable tie holding the plastic on. It wont be under much strain when its turning because of the plastic been so light but yes after a while i could imagine it going brittle and breaking but we will see.
I havent got the manual but your not the first person ive heard to say that!
Back in 1986 I had a Morris Marina which started making a knocking noise at 103,000 miles. It turned out to be small end failure so I changed the offending parts (and a few others) and it was fine afterwards.
I have a Defender now which started making the same noise at 150,000 miles. I purchased a rebuild kit but when I dismantled the engine there was very little wrong with it. I fitted the parts from the kit anyway and after further advice I identified the real cause of the noise which was failed injectors.
Regarding the flywheel retaining bolts on my 2.4 Puma engine, I reused the same bolts too and they were fine.
The vehicle has now covered over 160,000 miles and I am changing the chassis.
I'm renewing the rear crankshaft oil seal at the same time (again) as I obviously did not do it properly during the 150,000 mile rebuild.
So I am reusing the same bolts for the 2nd time now. If the flywheel falls off I will let you know.
Tom good day, been watching your repairs on ypur TDCI. I am a recent owner of a 2008 2.4 TDCI with about 96,000miles on the clock. I took it to the RAC equivalent here in Switzerland and had the following remarks made on the condition of the Puma: 'engine to be adjusted, the engine speed remains accelerated when changing gears' & 'hard working clutch'. what would be your recommendations on what i should look to do? Thanks Peter
The clutch switch is at fault.
Have a look under the bonnet at your clutch pedal mounting. Their is a little black two pin switch attached to the lutch master cylinder. If that stops working the ecu dosent know when you are changing gear and causes the engine to rev. Sometimes if you removed them and spray some penatrating oil inside they will work until you get a replacement.
@@lifes.projects thank you Tom, I gave it a go, it appeared clean however I sprayed it and will see if there is any change until i have it checked at 1st opportunity. I am also interested to go for the lof hd clutch and the lof output shaft however i do not know if this is something i should do now proactivelely or wait till i have a clutch issue.
@@peterpontikos3786 if you are using the Defender for everyday things I would wait until it either feels worn or you have a fault before changing.
If you are doing large trips or heavy towing then I would think about doing it before you have a fault. Preventitive maintenance when working hard is always good.
@@lifes.projects thank you Tom for taking the time to give me your insight, i do go on long trips , i do not tow however the way the car was at the time i bought it, it is top heavy; a steel full roof rack and a roof top tent. not to happy about that but very difficult to take it off on my own. I just watched your news on the surgery, hope you are better and going back to a normal life.All the best!
I purchased a Defender new in 2008. The engine speed increased as I was changing gear. The main agent tried to fix it twice by renewing the fuel control valve but this only produced a temporary fix. They then recalled it for an upgrade to the engine management software and this fixed the problem for good. The vehicle has now covered just over 160,000 miles with no further problems with the RPM increasing as I change gear. This information is in the public domain. Your main agent must know about it and will be able to apply the fix for you.
With respect you can't really compare the clutch springs on the two clutches when one is new and the other has already failed! Look at the new clutch after 5 years of service and then you will get a meaningful comparison.
A general problem with buying parts is how do we know what the quality is really like? Any manufacturer can call his clutch "heavy duty" but the only real test is to use it in service. And of course we, the poor customers, are the ones to suffer if it's poor quality.
Yes fully agree with you although having worked in a few garages the customers sometimes like to supply their own clutches therefore i have fitted the cheapest nastiest clutches they can get their hands on no matter how much i try to convince them otherwise.
The cheap clutches usually have less fingers and are alot lighter. Just from looking at them you can tell they are poor quality and 3 months down the line you can guarantee they will come back with clutch judder or poor gear selection.
@@lifes.projects The one item where one should never economise is the clutch because of the greatly unequal costs of parts and labour.
Of course if one has a heavy vehicie (Defender 110 or 130) with a high output engine like the Puma the clutch is going to do a lot of work. My Defender 90, which is modestly powered, has a heavy duty clutch which should give me a very good life. The last clutch was replaced after 80,000 km because I was doing a gearbox swap and it had no appreciable wear.