DIY: How to replace Land Rover Defender Clutch
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 січ 2015
- This video will help you learn how to replace your Land Rover Defender's clutch using basics tools and a little mechanical know how. This video is sponsored by SGS Engineering, and we used their excellent 2 Ton Professional Folding Engine Crane in this video:
www.sgs-engineering.com/ec2000...
We're fitting a new clutch to our 08 TDCI Puma. The clutch on the 07-11 Defenders was redesigned twice, due to premature clutch failure. Using part number: LR048731 (Designed for the 2.2 but fits the 2.4 and should stop the failures thanks to bigger, stronger springs and resin bonded centre thrust washer).
/ funrover
Land Rover Blog & Online magazine: funrover.com
Discuss this episode here: funrover.com/reviews/sgs-engin...
Additionally, FunRover TV is not to be taken as an instructional video. It is for reference and entertainment purposes. FunRover TV cannot be held responsible for any damage, warranty voids or problems that arise from attempting to to carry out work on your own Land Rover. Always work safe and ALWAYS refer to the manual! If you're unsure about anything, talk to a qualified mechanic or car technician. - Авто та транспорт
Handy tip on the cardboard screw/bold reminder -nice trick!
Great video .Changed the clutch last month, wasn't that easy, but with a platform lift. Good quality tutorial ! thanks a lot. Brings back memories .
Great video with clear procedure. Not only words! Thank you
There are of course different ways to do this job.
I understand that the authors are promoting the SGS engine lifter but it means that they have to strip out a lot of the interior (e.g. the seat boxes) since one needs access from above. On the positive side you can remove the main gearbox and transfer box as a single unit. It's a big old lump!
Another way is to work from underneath supporting the gesrboxes on a trolley jack with a suitable cradle (I have made up simple timber cradles). There is much less stripping in the cab; you must take out the transmission tunnel to get at the bellhousing bolts and the cubby box etc to get at the top of the gearboxes (to remove the change mechanism, breathers etc). The transfer box must be lowered first and then the main box. It helps greatly to have a pit which I am fortunate to have otherwise you are lying under the vehicle on you back which is unpleasant.
I have used both methods and find that working from below, and removing the two boxes separately, is less of a struggle. Either way it's a big job.
Anyhow it's a good video.
excellent video, nice and clearly spoken with lots of info,
congratulations! excellent job! greetings from México City!
First time doing one of these, your video helped a lot. I did it with a lift so I didn't pull out the interior, just reached around to undo all the connections and clips on top of the gear box. Also I figured I could save undoing those last 3 muffler bolts and just undo the mountings and put it to the side resting on something. I had to change the flywheel because it was all cracked, probably because the owner doesn't know how to drive it(clutch itself only lasted 45000 km since the last time)
A help video, thanks. You don't have to to remove the seat box though to do the job though. Its tight with it left in place but the amount of work saved is considerable!
I like it so much ! Perfect 👌! This is how videos should be done.
Specifically keeping the bolts in a card was brilliant.
Please keep on making videos
Ayman Abbas (Mr.)
Sudan-East Africa
Hi this is so useful thanks!
Where can I find the required torque for all the important bolts?
Fundrover alright! Very nice video! Good drawing! Made a big job simple! Make me want to replace clutch just for a fun!
Nice video, got one booked in for tomorrow gonna be fun 😂
Nice video how did you go bleeding the lines on the puma mine has got a very low bight point. Have adjusted the clutch pedal but its no better once the car warms up its back to the floor
If you only find eight bolts holding the engine to the gearbox, it means that somebody has been there before you and has not bothered to replace the two difficult one. There should be ten. The two high ones are very difficult to get at. The one on the right-hand side can just be seen from the top but is best tackled from below. The one on the left-hand side can't even be seen from the top. If you lie beneath the gearbox with your feet sticking out at the front of the car, then you can feel for both bolts.
Doh ! I missed the obvious. The two bolts at the top of the bell housing are easily accessible over the top of the gearbox. If you use a mirror to look along the gap between the top of the gearbox and beneath the curved steel cover, you can see them. A 13mm socket on a long extension bar reaches them easily.
Did you remove the mounts from the chassis and from the gearbox or just from the chassis? And do you mean the rubbers or the brackets themselves
Did you send the fly wheel off to be machined or is it a duel mass fly wheel?
Where did you get the 3D model of the defender from please?
I have just dropped the gearbox out of my 200Tdi (needs a rebuild) and will do the clutch whilst the box is out. Just wondering, is it essential to machine the flywheel face before putting in the new clutch? I've been told it is, but my thoughts would be to only machine if slightly warped or if significant build up on the face, but even for the latter a good clean/linish should do the job? Thanks, Matt
Thanks a lot
Hello Ben, first of all thanks for all the tutorials and the the tips. I was wondering at how many miles you changed the clutch?
thank you so much guys! :)
+BerouegDech No problem, hope it helped with a job ;)
+funroverdotcom
well i still have not done it yet but i will begin next week on my 200Tdi Defender.
with your help that will be easy. :-)
@@mothewag how did it go? I might start soon with replacing the clutch on my 200TDI too
Easy job.
Just coming to the end of rebuilding my Land Rover Defender from scratch and I wish I knew about that cardboard bolt holder truck from the start ☹️
Ehy up fun Rover,
It’s t’ good video but having done t’ job myself I’d like t’ point out be careful of what clutch tool you use as t’ flywheel has t’ needle bearings and can be damaged with t’ shit clutch tool.
Also bleeding t’ clutch you can reverse bleed or do t’ normal way.
I did t’ 2.2 and it’s worth reminding people t’ DPF system is t’ bastard and has t’ come up and out the bonnet after t’ coolant bottle has been shifted out road and t’ sensors for DPF are bastard £150 each and there’s 3 soft stainless ones in t bastard exhaust plugging into connections on top of t’ gearbox.
Good disassembly video but needs to show t’ reassembly can’t just say do t’ opposite when t’ clutch needs bleeding.
Also I fitted T’ Ashcroft output shaft when I had t’ gearbox out
The prefect
"Working on defenders is easy!"
Tutorial: yeah you gotta take apart half the vehicle to change the clutch
Good vid Ben! . To compliment this video we have a playlist on the other Land Rover 4 cylinder engine clutches ua-cam.com/play/PLE614F25363FC7E0F.html
Bloody hell mate wouldent it be better to just take the engine out?
+Hannible 100 Some would prefer that way, I prefer to not have to drop all my fluids e.t.c
A
Not a real Land Rover. Just an over priced Transit Van.
paul spencer have you owned one?
funrover currently have a TD5. Owned a 200tdi and a series 3. However not owned a transit.
engine and gearbox are shit but after some time you can replace it with 300tdi and R380 and galvanised body will last longer that TD5