Great, good luck with your own make. I have used this method quite a lot. It was also very effective using sticks and twigs and a green tinted resin. Just have to allow the sticks to dry out for several months first.
As the band saw was gliding towards your fingers my eyes were going wider - was about to tell you off for not using a push stick... but then the push stick swooped in and saved your pretty little thumbs from being permanently divorced from your hands xD
Thank you for sharing your talent! As an artist all I kept thing was if you painted the wood strips that went in the box how cool that wood be as well ;) Have you tried anything like that?
That's an interesting idea. I think the wood may need dyeing rather than painting, as I assume the paint would mostly coat the edges, where as it's the cross section of the wood that is on show. I might have an experiment, thanks.
Great idea, thank you. Making the wood the epoxy form instead of making a form. Having you thought of pouring the epoxy into the empty box, then stuffing the wood in to minimize air pockets, then topping it all off with remainder of the epoxy? Just a thought. This might be my first venture into using epoxy. I've been putting it off because of all the forms that are needed for each project. Thanks again.
Hi, I may try that sometime as bubbles are a concern with such a deep pour. I have continued with my current method to make it easier for me to mic the correct amount and poor in one session, but I'm sure I'd have the time to try your method without having to worry too much about the mix going off.
You mentioned that you did 3 coats of the spray on varnish with sanding in between coats. What do you do for the last coat to keep it smooth. Thank you and nice work.
Hi, I've not had any problems at all with temperature. I believe that fully cured resin doesn't expand/contract much with temperature, especially under the domestic temperatures a hot or cold drinking vessel would provide. A bigger worry would be moisture getting into the wooden frame, this is why I made sure all the wood was fully sealed.
The finished coasters were around 3/8 inch or nearly 10mm think. The wood I used for the boarders was originally 20mm thick, but I ripped it in half before making the boarders, so after the width of the saw kerf and loosing a bit to planing, the borders were around 8-9mm thick. I've made many of these and have found that a measurement of 10mm for both the thickness of the coaster and the width of the border seems to look about right when the dimensions of the coaster are around 100mm. i.e. the thickness and border with are both around 10% of the diameter of the coaster. Hope that helps.
Its an Axminster 250N - it has a 10 inch throat. I've found that I can cut up to around 14cm/5.5 inch if I go slow and use the right blade for the job. I will be upgrading to a more powerful machine very soon - probably the Record Power BS350, or even the BS400 if I save a little more.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 Hi! Thank you so much for replying :) I went on their website to try and find the same ones you used in your build, but couldn't find it. Overall, what type of resin would be okay for this build. Is it / should it be a deep-pour resin or does any resin work as long as I leave it alone to cure? Thank you again!
Hi Carl, I used a 14 TPI blade on the coasters in the video which let a family smooth surface, though there were some tool marks. I have used a 6TPI blade on other batches and it wasn't too bad, though it did need a bit more sanding.
Yes they are. The wood and resin are perfectly resistant to heat way beyond that of a hot beverage, you just need to check the varnish you choose is up to the job - most are.
Hi, not really. I don't use varnish very often so the stuff I used was just something I had lying around. Something like Plasti-kote 1138 will work OK. Alternatively you could use a self levelling epoxy resin such as Art Cast which will make a nice surface - you should't use this for the main resin infill though as it's not suitable for deep fill.
Thanks. I'm pretty sure I said 'Duct Tape', that's my habitual pronunciation. However, I don't think the Duck or Duct debate is a hill to die on - www.rd.com/culture/truth-duct-tape-or-duck-tape/
Very original way of making coasters. Thanks for sharing the video.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
This is the best way to make coasters with resin! Now, I need to get a band saw and belt sander so I can make some.
Great, good luck with your own make. I have used this method quite a lot. It was also very effective using sticks and twigs and a green tinted resin. Just have to allow the sticks to dry out for several months first.
Interesting idea, I've got a huge box of wooden pen blanks from years ago, might be a good way to use a bunch of the more plain looking ones up.
After all this laborious work, it’s satisfying to have such coasters with beautiful design.
Thanks
Very smart use of scrap and very beautiful...awesome video!
Thanks
Brilliant idea 💡
Thank you! 😊
Just in time for the holidays. Thanks!
:D
Smart! Thanks, guy.
Thank you!
I’m with you mate, I throw nothing away. Great project.
Aha, yes - things normally come in useful eventually.
Man! What a nice coasters! Greetings from a fellow coaster maker!👍🏻
Hey, thanks!
Great project mate. Well done
Thanks you Mark
That is such a great project. Turned out beautiful. Well Done mate
Thank you Mark.
outstanding!!!!
Thank you.
Very cool! Love the finished design
Thank you
Nice!!!
Thanks!
It reminds me of Pimento Loaf at the meat market.
:D
Very unique.
Thank you Ross.
Muy buena idea! Gracias por compartir. Saludos desde Chile. Very good idea! Thanks for sharing. Greetings from Chile
Thank you
Wow, thank you for the inspiration. I'm s newbie this looks like FUN!
Yes, it's a good fun project.
very nice idea!
Thank you :D
thank you my friend. good job!
Thank you.
Dont feel bad about save every single little scrap of wood. I do this myself!!😂😂😂
Yes, you never know when something may come in useful!
Brilliant 👍🏾
Thank you.
Don't worry about splines for long grain mitered boxes
Yes god point, they held up fine without.
As the band saw was gliding towards your fingers my eyes were going wider - was about to tell you off for not using a push stick... but then the push stick swooped in and saved your pretty little thumbs from being permanently divorced from your hands xD
Oh yes, I always have the push sticks in reach before powering up.
It required quite a bit of work; that said, the Results were very nice...
Thank you
👍👍👍👍
Thank you
Thank you for sharing your talent! As an artist all I kept thing was if you painted the wood strips that went in the box how cool that wood be as well ;) Have you tried anything like that?
That's an interesting idea. I think the wood may need dyeing rather than painting, as I assume the paint would mostly coat the edges, where as it's the cross section of the wood that is on show. I might have an experiment, thanks.
Great idea, thank you. Making the wood the epoxy form instead of making a form. Having you thought of pouring the epoxy into the empty box, then stuffing the wood in to minimize air pockets, then topping it all off with remainder of the epoxy? Just a thought. This might be my first venture into using epoxy. I've been putting it off because of all the forms that are needed for each project. Thanks again.
Hi, I may try that sometime as bubbles are a concern with such a deep pour. I have continued with my current method to make it easier for me to mic the correct amount and poor in one session, but I'm sure I'd have the time to try your method without having to worry too much about the mix going off.
You mentioned that you did 3 coats of the spray on varnish with sanding in between coats. What do you do for the last coat to keep it smooth. Thank you and nice work.
HI John, I use a high grit glass paper something over about 800 - its juts a light rub to knock of the nibs.
Really nice work, and looks awesome! I wonder, did you have any problems with putting warm or cold stuff on them? with contraction and expansion?
Hi, I've not had any problems at all with temperature. I believe that fully cured resin doesn't expand/contract much with temperature, especially under the domestic temperatures a hot or cold drinking vessel would provide. A bigger worry would be moisture getting into the wooden frame, this is why I made sure all the wood was fully sealed.
Love the process Sir 👌😊looking forward to your future projects . Thank you and best wishes from India 😊
Thank you :D
How thick are each of the coasters? How thick was your original piece of wood that you used for the borders? Love this idea!
The finished coasters were around 3/8 inch or nearly 10mm think. The wood I used for the boarders was originally 20mm thick, but I ripped it in half before making the boarders, so after the width of the saw kerf and loosing a bit to planing, the borders were around 8-9mm thick. I've made many of these and have found that a measurement of 10mm for both the thickness of the coaster and the width of the border seems to look about right when the dimensions of the coaster are around 100mm. i.e. the thickness and border with are both around 10% of the diameter of the coaster. Hope that helps.
what size band saw you use? the ones i been looking at only seem to cut 3" think
Its an Axminster 250N - it has a 10 inch throat. I've found that I can cut up to around 14cm/5.5 inch if I go slow and use the right blade for the job. I will be upgrading to a more powerful machine very soon - probably the Record Power BS350, or even the BS400 if I save a little more.
I'm new to woodworking and epoxy resin. What sort of resin is being used in this build?
Hi, its Glass Cast I believe.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 Hi! Thank you so much for replying :) I went on their website to try and find the same ones you used in your build, but couldn't find it.
Overall, what type of resin would be okay for this build. Is it / should it be a deep-pour resin or does any resin work as long as I leave it alone to cure? Thank you again!
Which GlassCast Epoxy did you use? # 3, 10 or 50?
I'll take a look and get back to you.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 hey, in interested too in this. If you could please
genius
Thank you
Qué belleza
Gracias
What size band saw blade did you use? TPI?
Hi Carl, I used a 14 TPI blade on the coasters in the video which let a family smooth surface, though there were some tool marks. I have used a 6TPI blade on other batches and it wasn't too bad, though it did need a bit more sanding.
👏👏👏
Thank you.
Are these ‘coffee cup’ heatproof ?
Yes they are. The wood and resin are perfectly resistant to heat way beyond that of a hot beverage, you just need to check the varnish you choose is up to the job - most are.
Thank you for your reply, is there a particular varnish you ‘wood’ 🤔 recommend ?
Hi, not really. I don't use varnish very often so the stuff I used was just something I had lying around. Something like Plasti-kote 1138 will work OK. Alternatively you could use a self levelling epoxy resin such as Art Cast which will make a nice surface - you should't use this for the main resin infill though as it's not suitable for deep fill.
Many thanks- am now on a mission to do some coasters 😁🦆
Excellent! I'd be interested to see a picture of what you come up with.
Oh boy, this is like watching paint dry?
Or resin!
Well done great job, and mate it's duct tape not ducks tape
Thanks. I'm pretty sure I said 'Duct Tape', that's my habitual pronunciation. However, I don't think the Duck or Duct debate is a hill to die on - www.rd.com/culture/truth-duct-tape-or-duck-tape/
Блин! Мужик, запрааляй рукава 14.01 мин. Не есть гуд! А так подписался.
:D
My man make this easier on your self and buy a good sized silicone mixing cup, and a set of scales
Maybe I'll ask Santa Claus.