Loved the first statement “I assume not, cause I’m still here” I wonder how many of us were laughing and thinking the same thing 😂 every time I sharpie a rope I wonder about it and then am like, well it’s all been good so far!
I understand it’s more difficult to do, but it would be interesting to do the break test on a rope that has been marked for a long time (a few years). Chemistry can work slowly ; maybe the ink degrades the fibers over a long period of time…
@@lewan1905 What makes you so sure that what remains is chemically neutral ? And even if it seems obvious, the point of this channel is to put « obvious » knowledge to the test… and sometimes show that it’s not as obvious or true as everybody seems to know…
When testing ropes, cords or webbing, you should consider having "tensionless" fixtures on each end of the piece being tested. For rope testing, manufacturers use a non-rotating thick wall steel pipe that is many times the diameter of the rope. They wrap the rope at least 5 wraps, laid next to each wrap, and then anchor off the end with a knot or clamp. By doing the testing this way, the ultimate tensile strength of the rope is revealed, instead of knot strength, because the bend radius is shallow enough to distribute the load throughout the fibers, and there is enough wraps to reduce the load way down at the final knot or clamp. Thus for your "Sharpie" test, you might be able to see that the chemicals weaken the rope's ultimate tensile strength.
Great comment. As someone who does laboratory research/testing I wholeheartedly agree. Did not know the exact procedure either, that's very smart. The key to most tests is really specifying the restraints.
@@demoman2 Yeah that would produce fantastic labratory results. Thats not what he is going nor is it super helpful, most of the sports industry isnt using frictionless in labratory settings. The practical application of this that with somewhat recently marked rope your rope is much more likely to fail in the knot then where there is a little bit of sharpie. Yes it may degrade the strength ever so slightly when tested in a lab but if its going to fail long before in everday conditions is it really that important? That why you use redundancies.
@@edgarchambersv2020 Came here to say this. While I agree, to find the ultimate strength, use the knotless method, but tbh I don't care. As a climber, I am going to be using knots. As long as the knot remains the braking point, sharpies are a-okay.
As a process engineer i'd like to say that this is a great idea, and also state that material compatibility testing is more comprehensive than this. It would probably involve soaking a rope in either material (sharpie ink or the rope marker material) for different timespans, say 1 hour, 1 day, 1 week, 1 month, and testing at those time intervals. Of course, you also have to perform a measurement systems analysis beforehand and establish your confidence intervals. Based on standard deviation between samples of fresh rope (your control), you can estimate the sample size needed to establish variation in the mean break values. The stress/strain curve will have multiple outputs from tensile strength to elongation &c &c. Thanks! cool video!!!
The dual location is an absolute positive. Gives you a break from presenting, we know you love talking though haha, but I like that you allow others to present their information themselves, and it gives the videos more variety so the backdrop isn't always the same. Seeing Brent's setup was also really cool. either way, you put out great videos. keep having fun and giving us more info than we will really ever need.
In the AMGA SPI book they mention this issue and say that the only situation rope manufacturers found was if the the marked section is layed on a sharp rope edge and then it will break at significantly lower strains.
You can mark the middle of the rope by taking apart some colorful acessory cord and sewing the threads through the mantle for few inches, Easy to spot also in the dark or when rope gets dirty by feel, and those threads never come off by themselves.
marked all my ropes for years although i use edelrid industrial super static which is apparently resistant to chemicals etc i have been told that it is bad but i would worry about human error in the rigging before worrying about that
I like the occasional guest speaker, especially those with related professional training. Also worth mentioning the guest's background in more detail or provide a link for their info.
In canyoning is useful to mark the end of the rope with marks signaling the length of the rope. Example 6 stripes for a 60 Mt. Rope etc. Or a personal coded mark
10:08 I'm not a climber, but as a fisherman, if you use one end of a rope/cable, mow the the other, the used side will stretch, causing the centre to be off set, always swap ends between uses if possible
I'd be interested in similar for dyneema slings, some manufacturers would advise to chuck them if they have had tape on them, which seems a bit overly cautious! I'd offer to send you one but I'm in the UK so it's a bit of a trek...
Now I'm not a climber, but the subject of climbing interests me. So I think out the box per say. Can you use fabric dye? Since your taking the time to locate the center of the rope, it shouldn't take too much longer to use a sacrificial container, and dip the center of the rope in fabric dye. This way not just the outer sheath would dye, but all the way through, as a more complete marking.
A few years ago I spoke with a Sterling Rope production manager. When I asked him about this topic his answer was, because the recipe is not the same for every batch of ink produced, meaning any two Sharpies contain different chemicals and compounds, they cannot make any blanket statement of how sharpies will affect a rope. So it could be totally safe, or it could damage your rope and the only way to find out is to test Sharpies individually.
The issue with this is, all you need to do is find your sharpies safety data sheet, which by law is open to the public. I've looked at the sheet for my one all safe.
@@sebastianflynn1746 I'm guessing there is next to no "batch-to-batch" difference, because they'd be updating SDS sheets every batch (not gonna happen!) However there is a good chance that maybe 6 months from now they may make a change. Because of that risk, it Stirling made a statement in 2021 saying "Sharpie is safe" and then someone saw that and failed to update their knowledge 6 months from now then yeah, that's more risk than it's worth.
@@DeShark88 oh of course no rope manufacturer can endorse saying "sharpies are fine" it just needs to be done on an individual basis, just look at the SDS then cross reference it with a chemical interactions list for pa66, you have your answer
@@kevinmokracek5078 Sharpie (more correctly permanent marker) is also a blanket term encompassing probably all sorts of different compositions, each of which may or may not always be sold under the same name.
Yes i read about this experiment, they basically proved that the beal stuff (that is actually rebranded Tiflex inkpad ink) do affect the rope a little.
I love cavers! I study a lot of their rescue techniques. Its more of a comment about being a little neurotic about gear and easily distracted by shiny things. I think a few of us fall into that category. 😂
What's being attacked by this channel, although inadvertently, are a whole bunch of caving myths previously stated as facts. Personally, I love it. And yes, I am a caver!
You know he wasn't a Caver, an equipment wall covered in strange descenders but I had to look really really carefully to see his one ascender and not one light either ;) I heat shrink plastic on the end of my ropes but his nail polish method looks easier.
Hey the video format was amazing. Really cool information. I work as a climbing arborist and am curious about the fact that my ropes get full of mix gas and bar oil from the Saws and pine pitch lots of pine pitch any chance you could do some testing around this?
Excellent video! I can't even complain about the length b/c of ALL the great content. Love the magic teleporting Sharpie! And excellent comments as well. Wow, a lot of really great suggestions! Hope you can pursue them. Correct me (silently, gently, kindly?) if I misunderstand, but just because the knot broke doesn't mean there was NO decrease in strength due to either rope marker, it just means the knot was weaker than the marked and unmarked, unknotted sections of the rope, correct? But the good news is that any decrease in strength (based on this very limited sample size of two, as you wisely point out, thank you!) was not less than the weakness presented by the knot (ROM 50%-ish). As for nail polish or anything that stiffens the end of a rope, possibly not a good idea for ice climbers who may thread their ropes through an A- or V-thread and need the ends to be flexible. Again, thanks to you AND to commenters who "learnt" me a thing or two! (Hmmm.... chemical reactions over time AND temp, good to know!)
Chemical resistance is a combination of time/temperature so it might be interesting to do something over a period of time at temperatures that simulate a closed up car in the desert. Additionally, it is pretty common to do an accelerated chem res test under strain. The fact that the solvent is essentially gone might negate the effect but this would be more of a real world test for the sharpie. I suspect that sharpies aren't too bad considering they are alcohol-based versus something like acetone in nail polish. Some other ideas on things to test from a chem res perspective would be DEET, picaridin and water, if they haven't been covered in previous videos (there are so many it's hard to keep track)
The beal stuff is actually rebranded Tiflex inkpad ink. If you go to pro office shop in europe you can find it for about half the price. It's exactly the same with the roller and all.
If you could get bite sized bits and get them shared around the Facebook climbing pages around the word I am sure that will help your sub count. Love your stuff. Keep killing it.
I bought a black diamond rope marker and it almost seemed like a sharpie but didn't have a strong smell like a Sharpie does...I have used a Sharpie on some things and sometimes it does slightly eat away at some adhesives, so I'm guessing it's slightly acidic, but not enough to damage modern ropes
If you would like your rope ends to be even brighter, put on a base coat of white and then just before it loses all of it’s tackiness, apply your color choice. Full disclosure…..I’ve done this to several items but never rope. See if you can find fluorescent orange (yellow, whatever contrasts the rope color) and apply a thin coat so the white can glow through. I was amazed at how much brighter the white base makes the top coat. Might take some experimentation on rope. EDIT: I’m back with a highly visible bizarre idea. LED lighted nocks for hunting arrows super glued inside the end of the rope. The power switch is at the bottom of the string notch so still accessible. Yeah, twisted mind here, but it would be BRIGHT. 👊😎
I'd love to use Beal on my static rope...but they seem to have discontinued the Beal Rope Marker. My research shows Epping 3000 is approved by many rope manufacturers and Black Diamond has their water based marker pen but it and the Epping are sharp pointed applicators and it would take a lot to do 8-10" at dark enuff to see in low light or other. I see some folks seem to think that water based laundry markers would not degrade rope and provide a reliable mark for ??? Any suggestions on this thorny issue?
@HowNOT2 pro tip, you don’t need to wait for the super glue to dry. If you sprinkle just a very small amount of baking soda on the super glue infused rope (or any super glue joint) it will instantly harden due to a chemical reaction between the two components.
Box stores tend to have only one viscosity of superglue. I wonder if you’d find it any easier to soak the ends with a thinner glue. I’ve found that hobby shops tend to have cyanoacrylates by Bob Smith Industries. Woodworking shops tend to have products by FastCap. Both have at least four viscosities. Both also sell accelerators that nearly instantly set the glue, with the supposed detriment of a marginally reduced strength. They sell conventionally sized bottles and significantly larger bottles, which could be a benefit if you’re doing large batches. If not, it’s kind of a liability because the bottle can get pretty crusty, despite the higher quality glue being more stable over time. Cheers.
Seeing the creep in the end of that rope makes me wonder why folks have gotten away from whipping the ends like used to be done. You can even use hi-vis thread to make a very easily seen end. While I can't say that whipping would stop the rope creep, I think it would certainly help. Relying on the "butane backsplice" or super glue is great, but even a common whipping would add yet another layer of insurance and is easy to do. Also, painting the ends is great, but if you want a real bright finish, paint the rope with white paint first. When you go over that white with the prettier red or orange, you'll see a huge difference in how bright the topcoat is. Old trick used to paint rifle and bow sights.
I never put ink on my rope. I've used a sail maker needle to add a colored nylon cord for various purposes. Such as warning me the slack end is 25 and 10 feet away. As in caves one can't always see where rope protection ends. .
I've heard somewhere that the best way to test the strength of a rope without any additional factors like knots is to wrap it several times around a round cylinder - like on a winch reel. That might be a better way to verify if the sharpie is truly unsafe, and after having let it sit for a period (few months?) like some people have suggested. For for thought …….
That's how it's tested for UIAA standards, the only problem is that that is never how things are used practically. How Not To isn't trying to represent standards, it's informing climbers on where their points of failure are. The knot will always fail first even if the sharpie takes 30% off of the strength at the middle. That's practical climbing knowledge.
Ropes have been marked up with Sharpies for decades. People report that ropes break at a knot, a splice, a section change but we haven't heard, AFAIK, about ropes being liable to break where they have been marked. This surely would have drawn attention by now.
I've never seen a write up on the chemical reaction that takes place which would degrade the strength of any part of the rope. Unfortunately, most people don't understand "not recommended" can mean anything from "ours lawyers made us do it" to "you will die".
Would a better way to test for loss of strength after marking the rope be to ensure it breaks at the marked rope? We learned that knots seem to reduce rope strength more than a sharpie or rope marker. Could you pull both ends of the rope at one end of your test bed while passing the rope over a very narrow carabiner and expect the rope to predictably break at the sharp bend?
Instead of using the entire Sharpie ink packet thing. I wonder if getting a whole bunch (20 or so?) making some kind of rig/jig/holder that you could add some kind of liquid and dip the center of the rope (just make a bite from the center) and get many more uses from each individual sharpie and get better saturation throughout the rope. Are you only trying to mark the surface of the rope meaning just the exposed edges of the outer sheath, are you trying to saturate the entirety of the sheath or are you trying to saturate the sheath as well as the entire core of the rope? ALSO, Does anyone make/produce/sell rope with the centers already marked?
I'm imagining a Lego Pick-a-brick cup filled with vertically positioned sharpie ink packet things. Filled meaning PACKED. Top that off with maybe water but I also wonder if another fluid would allow the ink to last longer, wear less, saturate faster better easier. I know isopropyl alcohol cleans sharpie off of surfaces but would that aid in creating a fast drying ink dip? What if instead of a sharpie, you just use fountain pen ink. That stuff is super rich with pigment. Adding a small amount of water to that (or other carrier fluid) could be good. Color options for center of rope or tip of rope. I know there are inks that are made to be wash proof (check fraud prevention) but they may use some kind of carrier fluid that might eat the fibers of the ropes. (depending on rope material) maybe not IDK I dont play with rope. But watching you do it is neat.
Awesome video as always. Just wondering why you didn't use a friction knot? It wouldn't compromise the rope at the knot then. Is supposed to take it alot closer to it's real breaking strength. Also I like the multi location of this..... You need to up your gear wall 😉
The multiple locations was cool, and nice touch with the scene transition. I agree with Vivian, it'd be cool to see the long term ink marked rope break test, but difficult to do now unless someone can donate an old marked rope.
One other suggestion. Mark the middle with two marks seperated by an inch or two. Then if you have to cut the rope for any reason, you complete the mark to nullify it, and double mark the new center.
What about pulling the marked portion over a carabiner, like if you were rappelling with it? Seems like a way to test the rope rather than knots, and also a case you might run into with this. Of course rappelling doesn't generate any force, but still.
Story I heard it the sharpie reduces strength significantly if the mid mark falls over an edge versus the plain rope on the same edge. Can you put that mid mark around a pin and try with and without sharpie?
It looks like the sharpie marked rope left some "necking" after the break test. Was it more than the Beal marker? Could be an indication of the fibers losing some of their ability to recover after loading. Might be interesting to see this replicated on the drop tower!
I seriously doubt the pugment would do anything, it's the solvent you should worry about. Another way of testing this would be to just use a tiny offcut and put it in a container of the solvent and see if it disolves or changes the material in some other way. If it doesn't you should be fine not matter how you apply it. Or if you want to be extra safe you could make a test length like this a completely soak the test portion before letting it dry and performing this test to determine if any amount would cause an issue.
@@TheAkashicTraveller The solvent used in Sharpies is, according to the MSDS, composed of Butanol, Propanol, Diacetone and Ethanol Alcohols. It is also, again according to the MSDS, not chemically incompatible with anything, and will not cause hazardous polymerization. So it's probably safe.
I have used both sharpies and other available markers, and official products for rope marking. All of them wear off pretty easily and also fade with time, I have found.
This is a test I've wanted to see for a while. Shame you didn't test an old rope that had had sharpie on it for an extended period of time. IMO that would be a much more important test as it's had time to degrade (if it does) and the effect (if there is one) of it being less flexible to effect the way it breaks (if it does).
In future rope break videos you could try holding the ends with a prusik so the knot isn’t what breaks. Not sure if a prusik can be stronger than the rope.
could there be a UV component confounding things? black absorbs radiation, but the two compositions may be differently absorbent in the ultraviolet part of the electomagnetic spectrum
I’m starting to think, and this is purely my suspicion, we don’t really care what format you do. Just make interesting videos! On the upside, you can have unrestrained creative freedom! The downside is, you have very little direction from us since we will always just think it was a good video.
It would be interesting to see what the fibers look like under microscope to see what if any impact the ink has. As well, soaking in various solutions like cat pee, gasoline, oil, puddle water…etc then see how the strength of the rope is or isn’t effected. Just to demonstrate a video on carelessness of rope and the effects.
Hi @HowNOT2, I think edelrid did a lot of research, the DAV(German Alpine) club and the Berg&steigen too. They found out that the abrasion resistance is lower after marking the Rope, about 50% is lost of your MB-Strength. So in the case of lowering f.E. a higher load (like 2People in an emergency) over an edge, it could potentially fail at the marking! Maybe you could verify this somehow, cheers!
Can you let one of the sharpie marks sit for some time as my concern with sharpie was degradation an chemical weakening of the sheath/core. Love the info and data you provide, its my jam. Knowledge and understanding dispels fear!
I've used ropes that were marked with a sharpie that we used for SAR training. We kept good logs for each rope and would get 7 years of use out of a rope with loads far higher than a climber or canyoneer would ever see. But that is with proper storage and maintaining the ropes. I will say that you should follow the rope manufacturer's advice for marking ropes.
are wet ropes weaker? I feel like it cant be the case, otherwise rain=death... thus, unless there's a chemical reaction between the plastic of the rope and the ink, there shouldn't be a noticeable change in strength, that's my guess
I suppose the break test would have more validity if you let it sit for a few weeks/months after appying the ink. And also if you performed a test applying force specifically on that spot.
Worth doing the sharpie again except leave it for a few days, give it time to work whatever potential damage it may do to the rope. I don't know if immediately testing it is the best shout. Much like erosion of non-stainless steel vs stainless steel, you couldnt just rub saltwater on a brand new steel carabiner then test its strength, you'd need to weather it. My two cents xx
One think more. Lets assume that knot you use have strength of 80%, so if for example sharpie reduce strength to 90% you can not discover it. I think it is time to find a way to fix a rope without knots. Something like capstan maybe?
I appreciate any donations. I want to make sure the expenses of the drop tower are covered. Should be installing the top half this week. Now to find some dummies! :) www.hownot2.org/donate
CMC rescue did a test with ropes soaking in chemicals. It was published there rope rescue manual. They soaked a rope in permanent marker ink for 24hrs. If I remember correctly there was no effect in rope strength.
You have to start the rumor that you can only use Trace Element Certified Sharpies on your ropes. T.E.C. Sharpies are used in the aerospace industry for marking metals, and are the only ones approved for aerospace use. They contain only trace amounts of common corrosive chemicals and cost about $8 each, although they look just like any other Sharpie. Try using a Sharpie Magnum and/or testing acrylic paint markers.
22:46 Strength tests of solvent dyed ropes using knots to attach the tensiometer only tells us the dye does not weaken it more than the attachment knots! (Duh!) To test the rope body strength (including the dye patch), you must use a "tree wrap" attachment rather than knots.
I just simply use some thread to mark the middle. Wrap it around and it holds pretty well. It has to be redone every year or so, also sometimes it can catch on stuff if you do it incorrectly. Otherwise I find it very astetic
Im really missing testing of EDK on this channel. It's actually used to join the 2 ends of a cordelette or abseil line quite some times. (Especially if you want to tie in a prusik directly into a closed carabiner)
Side note I just noticed the plaque on the top right of the gear wall. I've got essentially the same one. Looks like someone's been the Philippines, at least that's where I got mine...
Check out our canyoning gear! hownot2.com/collections/all-canyoning
Loved the first statement “I assume not, cause I’m still here” I wonder how many of us were laughing and thinking the same thing 😂 every time I sharpie a rope I wonder about it and then am like, well it’s all been good so far!
I understand it’s more difficult to do, but it would be interesting to do the break test on a rope that has been marked for a long time (a few years).
Chemistry can work slowly ; maybe the ink degrades the fibers over a long period of time…
yeah this would be interesting!
My thoughts too...
Its not the ink that you have to worry about. Its the solvents in which the colour is dissolved in. And those evaporate fully in minutes to hours
@@lewan1905 that was my thought. I don't know any situation where a marked rope over time has been the cause of a accident.
@@lewan1905 What makes you so sure that what remains is chemically neutral ?
And even if it seems obvious, the point of this channel is to put « obvious » knowledge to the test… and sometimes show that it’s not as obvious or true as everybody seems to know…
When testing ropes, cords or webbing, you should consider having "tensionless" fixtures on each end of the piece being tested. For rope testing, manufacturers use a non-rotating thick wall steel pipe that is many times the diameter of the rope. They wrap the rope at least 5 wraps, laid next to each wrap, and then anchor off the end with a knot or clamp. By doing the testing this way, the ultimate tensile strength of the rope is revealed, instead of knot strength, because the bend radius is shallow enough to distribute the load throughout the fibers, and there is enough wraps to reduce the load way down at the final knot or clamp. Thus for your "Sharpie" test, you might be able to see that the chemicals weaken the rope's ultimate tensile strength.
Yeah that would get you more consistent results. Don't know if the sharpie would affect it though
Great comment. As someone who does laboratory research/testing I wholeheartedly agree. Did not know the exact procedure either, that's very smart. The key to most tests is really specifying the restraints.
@@demoman2 Yeah that would produce fantastic labratory results. Thats not what he is going nor is it super helpful, most of the sports industry isnt using frictionless in labratory settings. The practical application of this that with somewhat recently marked rope your rope is much more likely to fail in the knot then where there is a little bit of sharpie. Yes it may degrade the strength ever so slightly when tested in a lab but if its going to fail long before in everday conditions is it really that important? That why you use redundancies.
@@edgarchambersv2020 Came here to say this. While I agree, to find the ultimate strength, use the knotless method, but tbh I don't care. As a climber, I am going to be using knots. As long as the knot remains the braking point, sharpies are a-okay.
Would be interesting but kinda irrelevant because if the painted part is stronger than a knot it's super good enough
As a process engineer i'd like to say that this is a great idea, and also state that material compatibility testing is more comprehensive than this. It would probably involve soaking a rope in either material (sharpie ink or the rope marker material) for different timespans, say 1 hour, 1 day, 1 week, 1 month, and testing at those time intervals. Of course, you also have to perform a measurement systems analysis beforehand and establish your confidence intervals. Based on standard deviation between samples of fresh rope (your control), you can estimate the sample size needed to establish variation in the mean break values. The stress/strain curve will have multiple outputs from tensile strength to elongation &c &c. Thanks! cool video!!!
thank you for panning on the squirrel, we all needed that.
I couldn’t help it
The dual location is an absolute positive. Gives you a break from presenting, we know you love talking though haha, but I like that you allow others to present their information themselves, and it gives the videos more variety so the backdrop isn't always the same. Seeing Brent's setup was also really cool. either way, you put out great videos. keep having fun and giving us more info than we will really ever need.
100% agree x million
In the AMGA SPI book they mention this issue and say that the only situation rope manufacturers found was if the the marked section is layed on a sharp rope edge and then it will break at significantly lower strains.
You can mark the middle of the rope by taking apart some colorful acessory cord and sewing the threads through the mantle for few inches, Easy to spot also in the dark or when rope gets dirty by feel, and those threads never come off by themselves.
I've seen it done with dental floss.
This sounds like it would cause much more damage than any Sharpie ever could...
@@DavideFossati You're only really sewing between the strands of the sheath. If done right it doesn't damage anything.
@@DavideFossati I'm no chemist, but if it is the solvents and their effects we are not sure about, then this is definitely a better way...
marked all my ropes for years although i use edelrid industrial super static which is apparently resistant to chemicals etc i have been told that it is bad but i would worry about human error in the rigging before worrying about that
I like the occasional guest speaker, especially those with related professional training. Also worth mentioning the guest's background in more detail or provide a link for their info.
Great idea! Here’s this so you don’t have to search…facebook.com/WhitewaterPirate
Can’t wait to see some more canyoning content. Would love to hear more about the different ropes Brent has been testing.
Another option is the Edding 3000 permanent marker which is recommended by Mammut. It's a nice and dark black color and doesn't smell bad.
I have always used water-based latex or acrylic paints. Needs to be redone after a while, but no solvents that might weaken the rope.
Best jump cut today and TOTALLY appropriate.
In canyoning is useful to mark the end of the rope with marks signaling the length of the rope. Example 6 stripes for a 60 Mt. Rope etc. Or a personal coded mark
10:08
I'm not a climber, but as a fisherman, if you use one end of a rope/cable, mow the the other, the used side will stretch, causing the centre to be off set, always swap ends between uses if possible
I liked this! Any format with your channel seems to work
I'd be interested in similar for dyneema slings, some manufacturers would advise to chuck them if they have had tape on them, which seems a bit overly cautious! I'd offer to send you one but I'm in the UK so it's a bit of a trek...
Sharpie ink uses an alcohol blend as the solvent, and I can't think of any rope that would have issues. Testing various solvents would be neat though
Now I'm not a climber, but the subject of climbing interests me. So I think out the box per say. Can you use fabric dye? Since your taking the time to locate the center of the rope, it shouldn't take too much longer to use a sacrificial container, and dip the center of the rope in fabric dye. This way not just the outer sheath would dye, but all the way through, as a more complete marking.
A few years ago I spoke with a Sterling Rope production manager. When I asked him about this topic his answer was, because the recipe is not the same for every batch of ink produced, meaning any two Sharpies contain different chemicals and compounds, they cannot make any blanket statement of how sharpies will affect a rope. So it could be totally safe, or it could damage your rope and the only way to find out is to test Sharpies individually.
The issue with this is, all you need to do is find your sharpies safety data sheet, which by law is open to the public. I've looked at the sheet for my one all safe.
@@sebastianflynn1746 I'm guessing there is next to no "batch-to-batch" difference, because they'd be updating SDS sheets every batch (not gonna happen!) However there is a good chance that maybe 6 months from now they may make a change. Because of that risk, it Stirling made a statement in 2021 saying "Sharpie is safe" and then someone saw that and failed to update their knowledge 6 months from now then yeah, that's more risk than it's worth.
@@DeShark88 oh of course no rope manufacturer can endorse saying "sharpies are fine" it just needs to be done on an individual basis, just look at the SDS then cross reference it with a chemical interactions list for pa66, you have your answer
Sharpie does not change their formula from batch to batch. That is an urban legend spread among climbers that has been spread for the past 30 years.
@@kevinmokracek5078 Sharpie (more correctly permanent marker) is also a blanket term encompassing probably all sorts of different compositions, each of which may or may not always be sold under the same name.
german DAV and mammut recommend the edding 3000 pen, easy to find in europe
That’s classic. And a nice fetish to have.
Yes i read about this experiment, they basically proved that the beal stuff (that is actually rebranded Tiflex inkpad ink) do affect the rope a little.
Caving feels personally attacked by Canyoneering's sly little comments about clean and shiny gear...
😭
I love cavers! I study a lot of their rescue techniques. Its more of a comment about being a little neurotic about gear and easily distracted by shiny things. I think a few of us fall into that category. 😂
What's being attacked by this channel, although inadvertently, are a whole bunch of caving myths previously stated as facts. Personally, I love it. And yes, I am a caver!
You know he wasn't a Caver, an equipment wall covered in strange descenders but I had to look really really carefully to see his one ascender and not one light either ;) I heat shrink plastic on the end of my ropes but his nail polish method looks easier.
@@bd1saul I think the caving comments was joking!
@@tomtom4405 that’s because the crolls and basics are all on my harnesses. 😉 I don’t have a Pantin yet and would like to learn to rope-walk.
I have always wondered how to find out the effects of suncream on ropes and harnesses. Are you able to please show us that?
Hey the video format was amazing. Really cool information. I work as a climbing arborist and am curious about the fact that my ropes get full of mix gas and bar oil from the Saws and pine pitch lots of pine pitch any chance you could do some testing around this?
Wow, I didn't know this was even in question. In the 90s we were marking ropes and slings with Sharpie all the time. Never saw one break.
Excellent video! I can't even complain about the length b/c of ALL the great content. Love the magic teleporting Sharpie! And excellent comments as well. Wow, a lot of really great suggestions! Hope you can pursue them. Correct me (silently, gently, kindly?) if I misunderstand, but just because the knot broke doesn't mean there was NO decrease in strength due to either rope marker, it just means the knot was weaker than the marked and unmarked, unknotted sections of the rope, correct? But the good news is that any decrease in strength (based on this very limited sample size of two, as you wisely point out, thank you!) was not less than the weakness presented by the knot (ROM 50%-ish). As for nail polish or anything that stiffens the end of a rope, possibly not a good idea for ice climbers who may thread their ropes through an A- or V-thread and need the ends to be flexible. Again, thanks to you AND to commenters who "learnt" me a thing or two! (Hmmm.... chemical reactions over time AND temp, good to know!)
Chemical resistance is a combination of time/temperature so it might be interesting to do something over a period of time at temperatures that simulate a closed up car in the desert. Additionally, it is pretty common to do an accelerated chem res test under strain. The fact that the solvent is essentially gone might negate the effect but this would be more of a real world test for the sharpie. I suspect that sharpies aren't too bad considering they are alcohol-based versus something like acetone in nail polish. Some other ideas on things to test from a chem res perspective would be DEET, picaridin and water, if they haven't been covered in previous videos (there are so many it's hard to keep track)
The beal stuff is actually rebranded Tiflex inkpad ink. If you go to pro office shop in europe you can find it for about half the price. It's exactly the same with the roller and all.
13:15 I use to use white out on black ropes, but this is wicked for coloured ropez
If you could get bite sized bits and get them shared around the Facebook climbing pages around the word I am sure that will help your sub count. Love your stuff. Keep killing it.
Now I'm wondering off the marker affects desheathing strength. Could maybe be an issue in a two rope rappel?
Chemicaly speaking it takes time i asume for any micro actions to affect a climbing rope using pigmented dye ?
I bought a black diamond rope marker and it almost seemed like a sharpie but didn't have a strong smell like a Sharpie does...I have used a Sharpie on some things and sometimes it does slightly eat away at some adhesives, so I'm guessing it's slightly acidic, but not enough to damage modern ropes
Its probably not acidic but has organic solvents in it (which is where the strong smell comes from)
If you would like your rope ends to be even brighter, put on a base coat of white and then just before it loses all of it’s tackiness, apply your color choice.
Full disclosure…..I’ve done this to several items but never rope. See if you can find fluorescent orange (yellow, whatever contrasts the rope color) and apply a thin coat so the white can glow through.
I was amazed at how much brighter the white base makes the top coat.
Might take some experimentation on rope.
EDIT: I’m back with a highly visible bizarre idea. LED lighted nocks for hunting arrows super glued inside the end of the rope. The power switch is at the bottom of the string notch so still accessible. Yeah, twisted mind here, but it would be BRIGHT. 👊😎
Oh yeah I use the technique with spray paint
After the stretch test it looks like the spots with the ink are thinner than the rest of the sheath. Is that real or just an optical illusion? 21:38
This is why women wear black clothes.
I'd love to use Beal on my static rope...but they seem to have discontinued the Beal Rope Marker. My research shows Epping 3000 is approved by many rope manufacturers and Black Diamond has their water based marker pen but it and the Epping are sharp pointed applicators and it would take a lot to do 8-10" at dark enuff to see in low light or other. I see some folks seem to think that water based laundry markers would not degrade rope and provide a reliable mark for ??? Any suggestions on this thorny issue?
I actually used the beal marker but i found that the rope got stiffed. The carabiner trick is great. Thank you
@HowNOT2 pro tip, you don’t need to wait for the super glue to dry. If you sprinkle just a very small amount of baking soda on the super glue infused rope (or any super glue joint) it will instantly harden due to a chemical reaction between the two components.
Box stores tend to have only one viscosity of superglue. I wonder if you’d find it any easier to soak the ends with a thinner glue. I’ve found that hobby shops tend to have cyanoacrylates by Bob Smith Industries. Woodworking shops tend to have products by FastCap. Both have at least four viscosities. Both also sell accelerators that nearly instantly set the glue, with the supposed detriment of a marginally reduced strength.
They sell conventionally sized bottles and significantly larger bottles, which could be a benefit if you’re doing large batches. If not, it’s kind of a liability because the bottle can get pretty crusty, despite the higher quality glue being more stable over time. Cheers.
Seeing the creep in the end of that rope makes me wonder why folks have gotten away from whipping the ends like used to be done. You can even use hi-vis thread to make a very easily seen end. While I can't say that whipping would stop the rope creep, I think it would certainly help. Relying on the "butane backsplice" or super glue is great, but even a common whipping would add yet another layer of insurance and is easy to do.
Also, painting the ends is great, but if you want a real bright finish, paint the rope with white paint first. When you go over that white with the prettier red or orange, you'll see a huge difference in how bright the topcoat is. Old trick used to paint rifle and bow sights.
I never put ink on my rope. I've used a sail maker needle
to add a colored nylon cord for various purposes. Such
as warning me the slack end is 25 and 10 feet away. As
in caves one can't always see where rope protection ends. .
I shrink tube the ends and put the inspection dates under it, and use a rope marker for any other marking.
Great idea!
Be careful with the heat gun you use! Keep it far away from the rest of the rope, obviously haha
I've heard somewhere that the best way to test the strength of a rope without any additional factors like knots is to wrap it several times around a round cylinder - like on a winch reel. That might be a better way to verify if the sharpie is truly unsafe, and after having let it sit for a period (few months?) like some people have suggested. For for thought …….
That's how it's tested for UIAA standards, the only problem is that that is never how things are used practically. How Not To isn't trying to represent standards, it's informing climbers on where their points of failure are. The knot will always fail first even if the sharpie takes 30% off of the strength at the middle. That's practical climbing knowledge.
Ropes have been marked up with Sharpies for decades. People report that ropes break at a knot, a splice, a section change but we haven't heard, AFAIK, about ropes being liable to break where they have been marked. This surely would have drawn attention by now.
I've never seen a write up on the chemical reaction that takes place which would degrade the strength of any part of the rope. Unfortunately, most people don't understand "not recommended" can mean anything from "ours lawyers made us do it" to "you will die".
I was scrolling through to find out why anyone thought this would be an issue. I still don't really think it is.
Would a better way to test for loss of strength after marking the rope be to ensure it breaks at the marked rope? We learned that knots seem to reduce rope strength more than a sharpie or rope marker. Could you pull both ends of the rope at one end of your test bed while passing the rope over a very narrow carabiner and expect the rope to predictably break at the sharp bend?
So I really don't know much about climbing but love the channel! I was wondering why he doesn't tie a knot in the end for canyoning?
Instead of using the entire Sharpie ink packet thing. I wonder if getting a whole bunch (20 or so?) making some kind of rig/jig/holder that you could add some kind of liquid and dip the center of the rope (just make a bite from the center) and get many more uses from each individual sharpie and get better saturation throughout the rope.
Are you only trying to mark the surface of the rope meaning just the exposed edges of the outer sheath, are you trying to saturate the entirety of the sheath or are you trying to saturate the sheath as well as the entire core of the rope?
ALSO, Does anyone make/produce/sell rope with the centers already marked?
I'm imagining a Lego Pick-a-brick cup filled with vertically positioned sharpie ink packet things. Filled meaning PACKED. Top that off with maybe water but I also wonder if another fluid would allow the ink to last longer, wear less, saturate faster better easier. I know isopropyl alcohol cleans sharpie off of surfaces but would that aid in creating a fast drying ink dip?
What if instead of a sharpie, you just use fountain pen ink. That stuff is super rich with pigment. Adding a small amount of water to that (or other carrier fluid) could be good. Color options for center of rope or tip of rope. I know there are inks that are made to be wash proof (check fraud prevention) but they may use some kind of carrier fluid that might eat the fibers of the ropes. (depending on rope material) maybe not IDK I dont play with rope. But watching you do it is neat.
Hi Brent! Nice to see you again.
Awesome video as always. Just wondering why you didn't use a friction knot? It wouldn't compromise the rope at the knot then. Is supposed to take it alot closer to it's real breaking strength. Also I like the multi location of this..... You need to up your gear wall 😉
The multiple locations was cool, and nice touch with the scene transition. I agree with Vivian, it'd be cool to see the long term ink marked rope break test, but difficult to do now unless someone can donate an old marked rope.
One other suggestion. Mark the middle with two marks seperated by an inch or two. Then if you have to cut the rope for any reason, you complete the mark to nullify it, and double mark the new center.
What about pulling the marked portion over a carabiner, like if you were rappelling with it? Seems like a way to test the rope rather than knots, and also a case you might run into with this. Of course rappelling doesn't generate any force, but still.
Story I heard it the sharpie reduces strength significantly if the mid mark falls over an edge versus the plain rope on the same edge. Can you put that mid mark around a pin and try with and without sharpie?
It looks like the sharpie marked rope left some "necking" after the break test. Was it more than the Beal marker? Could be an indication of the fibers losing some of their ability to recover after loading. Might be interesting to see this replicated on the drop tower!
Ooh, that's a good point, shock loading could be interesting
Your Videos! are @mazing! Thanks for the fun and educational videos. You have a Demolition Ranch vibe recently!
What effect could have the one sharpie straight line at dyneema sling ? Should I throw them away ?
Maybe you should wait more time, so the sharpie´s ink would act and could compromise the rope strength.
I seriously doubt the pugment would do anything, it's the solvent you should worry about. Another way of testing this would be to just use a tiny offcut and put it in a container of the solvent and see if it disolves or changes the material in some other way. If it doesn't you should be fine not matter how you apply it.
Or if you want to be extra safe you could make a test length like this a completely soak the test portion before letting it dry and performing this test to determine if any amount would cause an issue.
@@TheAkashicTraveller The solvent used in Sharpies is, according to the MSDS, composed of Butanol, Propanol, Diacetone and Ethanol Alcohols. It is also, again according to the MSDS, not chemically incompatible with anything, and will not cause hazardous polymerization. So it's probably safe.
Regarding finding the middle: surely just flake both halves at once if its critical
I have used both sharpies and other available markers, and official products for rope marking. All of them wear off pretty easily and also fade with time, I have found.
How long did you wait between saturating the rope and testing it? Also, I liked the dual-location format.
Good stuff in this one. Yeah the two seperate locations were nicely done.Thanks for learning :)
Atwood ropes out Ohio! Great company and family to another big UA-camr Roman Atwood! Time to take Roman climbing!
This is a test I've wanted to see for a while. Shame you didn't test an old rope that had had sharpie on it for an extended period of time. IMO that would be a much more important test as it's had time to degrade (if it does) and the effect (if there is one) of it being less flexible to effect the way it breaks (if it does).
Did you test a figure 8 with a super short tail?
Over about 1 year and lots of usage my sheet on my beal joker creeped more than 1 meter!
In future rope break videos you could try holding the ends with a prusik so the knot isn’t what breaks. Not sure if a prusik can be stronger than the rope.
could there be a UV component confounding things? black absorbs radiation, but the two compositions may be differently absorbent in the ultraviolet part of the electomagnetic spectrum
I’m starting to think, and this is purely my suspicion, we don’t really care what format you do. Just make interesting videos!
On the upside, you can have unrestrained creative freedom!
The downside is, you have very little direction from us since we will always just think it was a good video.
It would be interesting to see what the fibers look like under microscope to see what if any impact the ink has. As well, soaking in various solutions like cat pee, gasoline, oil, puddle water…etc then see how the strength of the rope is or isn’t effected. Just to demonstrate a video on carelessness of rope and the effects.
Hi @HowNOT2,
I think edelrid did a lot of research, the DAV(German Alpine) club and the Berg&steigen too.
They found out that the abrasion resistance is lower after marking the Rope, about 50% is lost of your MB-Strength.
So in the case of lowering f.E. a higher load (like 2People in an emergency) over an edge, it could potentially fail at the marking!
Maybe you could verify this somehow,
cheers!
7:40ishh
@Squirrel
Can you let one of the sharpie marks sit for some time as my concern with sharpie was degradation an chemical weakening of the sheath/core. Love the info and data you provide, its my jam.
Knowledge and understanding dispels fear!
I've used ropes that were marked with a sharpie that we used for SAR training. We kept good logs for each rope and would get 7 years of use out of a rope with loads far higher than a climber or canyoneer would ever see. But that is with proper storage and maintaining the ropes. I will say that you should follow the rope manufacturer's advice for marking ropes.
are wet ropes weaker? I feel like it cant be the case, otherwise rain=death... thus, unless there's a chemical reaction between the plastic of the rope and the ink, there shouldn't be a noticeable change in strength, that's my guess
I suppose the break test would have more validity if you let it sit for a few weeks/months after appying the ink. And also if you performed a test applying force specifically on that spot.
Surely it's only going to cause an issue if its on the rope for a while?
Can you test a rope that's had sharpie on it for a year or something?
Can you do sharpie on a belay loop, please? A friend wrote her name on the inside of the belay loop of her climbing harness 🤦♂️
Worth doing the sharpie again except leave it for a few days, give it time to work whatever potential damage it may do to the rope. I don't know if immediately testing it is the best shout. Much like erosion of non-stainless steel vs stainless steel, you couldnt just rub saltwater on a brand new steel carabiner then test its strength, you'd need to weather it. My two cents xx
We let it dry for an hour in the sun so all the solvents should have evaporated by then is my guess
I liked how you did the magic trick with the sharpie teleportation back to your lab. Haha. I did like the dual location video.
How about using tensionless knots?
I'm wondering how should I mark the middle of my *black* rope...
Entertaining and insightful 👏 keep up the great work Ryan and the team
One think more. Lets assume that knot you use have strength of 80%, so if for example sharpie reduce strength to 90% you can not discover it. I think it is time to find a way to fix a rope without knots. Something like capstan maybe?
I appreciate any donations. I want to make sure the expenses of the drop tower are covered. Should be installing the top half this week. Now to find some dummies! :) www.hownot2.org/donate
CMC rescue did a test with ropes soaking in chemicals. It was published there rope rescue manual. They soaked a rope in permanent marker ink for 24hrs. If I remember correctly there was no effect in rope strength.
hey, where You missed the "highline"?
@@wujciowariatuncio5702 welcome to the future! Hopefully this will help broaden the subscriber base for all groups using gear... even barbie! 😉👍
@@twathammerracing I mean, most are just water and various alcohols, though some use nastier solvents.
You have to start the rumor that you can only use Trace Element Certified Sharpies on your ropes. T.E.C. Sharpies are used in the aerospace industry for marking metals, and are the only ones approved for aerospace use. They contain only trace amounts of common corrosive chemicals and cost about $8 each, although they look just like any other Sharpie.
Try using a Sharpie Magnum and/or testing acrylic paint markers.
The A.V.E of the climbing community
22:46 Strength tests of solvent dyed ropes using knots to attach the tensiometer only tells us the dye does not weaken it more than the attachment knots! (Duh!) To test the rope body strength (including the dye patch), you must use a "tree wrap" attachment rather than knots.
Any recommendations for marking a black rope?
Sew some floss or white thread into the sheath.
18:30 Savage!!!
Great transition BTW
I just simply use some thread to mark the middle. Wrap it around and it holds pretty well. It has to be redone every year or so, also sometimes it can catch on stuff if you do it incorrectly. Otherwise I find it very astetic
Be nice to test it after the ink has been on for a few weeks to see if it degrades the fibre over time.
Im really missing testing of EDK on this channel. It's actually used to join the 2 ends of a cordelette or abseil line quite some times. (Especially if you want to tie in a prusik directly into a closed carabiner)
We test one in the video coming out Wednesday. We will probably test it more on the Drop tower
@@HowNOT2 AWESOME!
Can you guys test home made slings? Like tied with waterknot or even home sewn. Asking for a friend😉
Side note I just noticed the plaque on the top right of the gear wall. I've got essentially the same one. Looks like someone's been the Philippines, at least that's where I got mine...
The best way of finishing a cut Kermantle rope end, is to use a bunsen burner and a glass test tube.
The signal noise seems to be gone from your pressure transducer signal. What was your fix?
It’s not fixed. It intermittently works. I’m taking it to the doctor and filming how load cells work while I’m there
The duel locations was 👍🏾🤟🏻
Just marked a rope yesterday, they make a really fat chisel point Sharpie now that makes it super easy !
You'd really need to leave the sharpie rope to sit for a month before testing. If it has an effect it will take some time.
Wish you would have done a rope that had been marked for a season or two...
If you spray paint dogbones will it compromise the strength?
Personally I'd be skeptical about the solvent in the spray paint...
If you don't like tape, why not just stitch on a strip of colored fabric?
Depends how big you dog is 😂
@@HowNOT2 Clever