When should you stop trusting this?

How worn down can mussy hooks be before they become dangerous? We pulled on 2 good ones and 3 worn down ones from 5 Gallon Buckets route in Smith Rock. Other "open systems" where you can just clip in are the Ram's horn and permanent steel carabiners with captive eyes. They all broke super good enough. Our bonus test was lap links (chain links that are not welded closed) pulled off an old route and they were weaker than the rope. See our results on the blog ,www.hownot2.co...
Climbing anchors in Bolting Bible www.hownot2.co...
Worn down rappel ring episode • This rappel ring could...
Ultralight Black Diamond episode • C4 vs Ultralights: Tes...
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Mussy we do this
02:34 Mussy Hooks
06:10 Ram's Horns
08:03 Steel Biners
08:34 How to use open systems
14:58 Chain and Lap Links
16:36 New Lab