Could this save your life?
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Beal Ropes have unicore, a treatment that bonds the sheath and the core of a climbing rope so in case the sheath gets damaged, you don't slide down exposing a ton of core. Does it help? Does it make it stronger? Does it make it waterproof? We explore that in this episode.
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It's exciting to sell Beal ropes at our new hownot2.store/collections/beal
Look at kordas ropes they have an even better system (core sheet and a third type) then the beal ropes. All the best
(Not affiliated with kordas)
@@papaspeleo looks like these aren't uiaa certified, which is pretty basic for climbing equipment
@@pauldapigeon No. UIAA is a volentary standard.
So depending on where you live in the world their are mandatory standards to meet and then their are additional standards (if you want this extra mark you need to pay for it and for the testing) not paying for this mark does not mean that they do not meet the standard.
About 7 years ago I did meet the owner off Kordas and at that time he was the only employee as well. It was/is a garage workshop and not a multinational like Beal.
I do love beal rope’s and in my opinion they are one off the best quality/price rope makers for climbing caving and canyoneering.
All the best, Raf
Dude I climb trees for a living I had a piece of gear fail and cut the sheath of my rope vertically for about 12 feet the sheath was not completely cut through I was descending approximately 24 feet from the ground when it happened I got lucky I'm making a video right now for my tree bros I'll link your video in the description!
Hey Ryan- did ask Beal why they chose glue over something like a weave process? Seems to me you have all that extra thread around - weaving the sheath into the core would work better- thx
This video greatly increased the chances of me buying a Beal rope simply because the manufacturer is willing to put out information like this.
Just to be fair edelrid puts out alsot Informationen out. Cf edelrid knowlege base.
Mammut also has a lot of lab videos on UA-cam
@@kaiboxberg5505thank you
@@Fabianwewthank you 😊
The interesting thing is that for most products, as a buyer, I'm just trying to understand the limitations. Because I don't trust the marketing. I'd rather know something is a solid 5kn, than un-independently tested 10kn.
Climbing manufacturers finally understood that working with you is a win win situation
To the Beal team: I am happy with the one Beal rope I have and trusting your product enough to let Ryan beat the shit out of it definitely makes me trust you 😉
Money well spent 👍
Several years ago while ascending fixed lines up to Mammoth Terrace on El Cap the sheath of the rope I was on was so bleached it essentially turned to powder and I went for a slide for life down the fixed line until the sheath bunched up and I stopped. After changing my underwear I moved over to another fixed line that looked in even worse shape than the one that failed but it got me to the anchor. I stayed off any fixed lines that weren’t ones that I placed after that.
Sending it to HowNot2 KNOWING he is going to be brutally analytical- I REALLY respect that
I have always wondered why this isn’t the standard for all ropes being used for abseiling and ascending. Seeing how it reacts in different scenarios was very interesting. Thanks Ryan.
I like that you're able to work with the manufacturer and they were able to work with you; To give us the audience the best value!
Seriously, you Sir are a hero. You channel is like a public utility. I hope your store goes well and you stay healthy for a long time.
I had never heard of unicore and seeing as I only sport climb it's probably overkill for my needs, but it's interesting, and seeing brands cooperate on these videos really makes me trust them more
Awesome! I'd be interested in seeing unicore applied to arborist ropes. The ability to stay round is rather important when running stationary rope techniques on mechanical friction devices.
So, I totally misunderstood unicore before this video.This definitely helps me make a more informed choice given what I want to use the rope for and will mean I don't have a false sense of safety on a thin rope just because it has unicore. I really appreciate this.
I like Beal, a lot more now they've been so helpful with this video. It's great knowing all the theoretical stuff that their (and other brands) testing criteria meets, but this is a bit more 'real world' testing which helps understand how good the kit is when not in optimal condition. Incredible how much force can be applied with a toothed ascender in a f1.8 fall. I now trust my ropes a bit more, i have Beal half ropes but not 🦄
When you were ascending on the core, I would note that in reality, you'd hopefully have some prussiks with you and you could transition to ascending with those... Might be be another fun test one day (holding strength of klemheist/prussik on core), but yeah, I'd get the hell off of a toothed device if I were only on core strands 😅
You know me... if you test stuff, I'm gonna watch
But, as a climber who once fell a long way onto an ascender, I love the idea of a unicore rope!
👍 for Beal sending a bunch of rope for the video ! Super interesting results
Love that Beal / a manufacturer is finally working with you. I rarely comment on UA-cam but had to say it.
Personally I have Petzl Volta ropes (I like orange in pictures). I’ve heard good things about the joker but now they are definitely on my hit list.
As always, thanks Ryan.
For the record, many manufacturers have Unicore™ style ropes - Tendon, Teufelberger etc.
You mention it briefly at the end but the reason I love Beal Unicore is because if you ever coreshot your rope, you can bail quickly without having to isolate the coreshot section via alpine butterfly. As you demonstrated you will not put enough force for it to matter while rappelling.
I’m not sure unicore makes the difference for me to need it in a rope, but I sure do appreciate learning more about it! Thanks for the video and huge thank you to Beal!
20:33 Rub Master! 🤣 Am a big fan of the Beal Joker, I've used it as part of a pair for trad climbing for years.
Any chance you could ask Beal to make some unicore Arborist ropes? I would probably switch to only using those if they existed.
Edit: after hitting send, I immediately realized that they have an 11mm static unicore. I will be checking that out asap.
Respect to the co!
I’ve not climbed for years and even I’m tempted to buy a unicore rope. Great vid thanks 👍
This has been one of the best videos put together yet. Interesting and informative the whole time.
I mean if the rope manufacturer is working with you, go all the way. See what HardIsEasy did with Mammut and how they collaborated.
I want to see the impact of rope thickness on a sharp edge IN THE WILD ON ACTUAL ROCK
I would also be curious of some tangle science using normal ropes compared to unicore
Hard is easy just made a video for how to test ropes on rock edges and at the end they also show a new development from edelrid that should help with that.
Sadly a unicore rope was not part of the testing. Would have loved to see how it handles in that test.
ua-cam.com/video/x3PMT6K0_Gg/v-deo.html - The Last Unsolved Problem of Climbing Ropes
Awesome video as always Ryan! I'm not a climber but if I ever did I'd go Beal just bc they were open enough to test like this, wish more manufacturers were like this. 👍👍
I see it this way. They're getting free testing so they can see if they can improve the product. THAT is why they wanted to work with you, because of your background and the reach you have. That says a lot of good about the company that sells the product. It's hard to find companies wanting to do that for their customer base anymore, in profit focused business.
I work and climb with Beal Unicord ropes, for me they are one of the best ropes on the market. I have two ropes that I have been using daily for more than 5 years to hoist equipment and they are top.
I was unaware of unicore ropes but am now interested in checking one out. Thanks for the great content.
Another great video. I never heard of unicor until just now! And I'm super excited enough that your starting a store! I will be buying a unicorn rope from there shortly! I hope one day you have a storefront so we can roll up in there and say hi. Love all your videos especially the canyoneering ones as i am too old for much climbing these days but always up for going down!
Same, I didn't know it existed until this video
I hadn't really considered Beal Unicore before this video, but now I am aware of it, have a good idea of its pros and cons, and have a good vibe about the manufacturer. I think I used to have a Beal rope, but I can't really remember, and right now - this video seems more relevant to me than those memories.
If I thought I liked beal ropes before, I’m for sure convinced now. My 8.5 opera has been far more durable than anticipated
Love that Beal helped with making this video! Kudos to them for putting their name on the line for this testing! Well done video too
Congratulations on the huge success. All the work that you put into each video can be seen with how you present the information clearly.
I'm so glad that we can have this content here on UA-cam, it really is invaluable
Thank you to BEAL for the sponsorship!
I am intrigued by unicore, and am glad Beal worked with you on this. I was so glad to hear they use sustainable methods with their unicorns 😂
"if I were halfway up El Cap, this would be another level of gnar"
Lmao, cracked me up real good
You should do a golden dry vs dry vs untreated test.
The Beal 8.1mm Ice Line is a popular with ice climbers. That's what I use. How about some testing of skinny ropes.
Love it. Glad to see you’re getting sponsors that care about the content. Hope the store grows with you guys!
I’ve been using a 9.1 joker for many years now and am quite impressed with its durability, and also have a 8.5 opera for those really light and fast objectives. Overall, I really like both ropes. Thanks for the video.
I also have the beal opera.. i rarely use it though. And if i do its as a double rope.. its super light though 👍
Idk about all unicore rope but I work In the rope access industry and we use the 11mm pmi extreme pro with a polyester sheath and unicore and it adds somewhere between 1 or 2 thousand more pounds to the working load ... I can't remember off the top of my head
Interesting little known fun fact for ya! - Kordas the rope manufacturer from Spain invented the sheath core connection and called it 'STABILITY' Beal saw the opportunity and quickly nabbed the idea, calling it Unicorn LOL (Unicore for the serious)
Some information about rope / winch/ drill thing you used in this video?
Seems interesting...
I think Unicore for some people is an amazing tool to reduce anxiety about abrasion. for others I worry they might think it is indestructible and do things that on a normal rope they might not have. the second group of people aren't a fault of beal it happens in every industry. when cars got lane keep assist and automatic braking many people started falling asleep at the wheel because they thought it would save them in any situation. It is human nature to think that innovation makes you invincible and that is why what you are doing in indispensable.
Amazing video, so cool that beal worked with you on this
Yes, please more details about the tree drop tower and its anchors.
Got a topgun 2 10.5 m for 6 years ago. Climb once a week outdoors. Still holding strong.
Keep breaking all the things. I'll keep watching.
How about prusik on exposed core strands? Would it grip all the core strands better than the ascender?
I just bough a Beal joker this monday, quite fitting !
Great Video! I have always be curious about the unicore process and this was super informative. I use the 11mm Access with Unicore for work and I quite like it. The person that worked here before me knicked his rope with a chainsaw and was able to safely return to the ground (do not worry that section was retired afterward).
need a shirt that says AGS! or Always Go Second! thank you for all you do! from all of us THANK YOU!
Great information!
And please do a video about the drill powered winch, even if you aren't able to sell them in your store. That tool is really interesting, and I would love to see more of what it can do.
I haven’t seen one, but have you done one to see the forces on an anchor after a piece blows? Example: multipitch climb p2, leader takes off and clips into the highest piece of anchor in attempt to mitigate factor2, at least until gets first “real” piece in for the pitch. Say they fall on that single anchor piece, with force of idk say 2kn (or insert realistic force here) but it ultimately blows that piece. How much, if any of that 2kn is subtracted(?) from the force that will hit the remaining in tact anchor? I’d think it’d have to lessen the impact on the remaining anchor, right? Thanks!
Can we get a pull test on that velco? would love to know if the velcro can hold past the breaking strength of the backing strap.
I suspect the lack of slippage will reduce abrasion. Having a small fold of slack gather above a friction point will cause more wear.
"KERNMANTEL" these germans really have cool words... like "Burrito"
The rope breakage at @10:12 seems concerning. In other videos you've seen non-unicore ropes desheath at ~6kN but then the core still holds. And your core-only test held until 10. But here the unicore rope snapped entirely at 6.5kN.
I might be thinking of a different brand. But I really thought that some of inner strands would be weaved through the sheath at some interval and that was what was keeping the core and sheath from separating.
Good video. Nice to have a sponsor dish out some product for what ultimately is destructive testing and get some interesting results. Side note, you didn't mention the price point comparison, might have been worth a mention. I suppose we could do our own research, but I am a little bit lazy...
Excellent video, so glad we got to see so many tests.
Super awesome video! I feel bad for that tree though! That root zone is getting beat up so bad. When we build treehouses we put horse stall mats at the base to protect it.
I've seen many long used rappel ropes snakeskin out on one end and that is uncomfortable to many folks, maybe not a money factor for many, but good for some. I can see this being a big advantage for some environments, as well as I can see this being a plus for envions where you have a rescue rope which is normally way over sized, but unicore might give just that little extra durability on a specialist rope to make an additional cost worth while, if you can then reduce bulk. Since in many cases the "rescue" rope isn't there to be stronger, just oversized for durability. It really seems that this fits in a niche where all you need is a few more percentage points of overall performance, and it seems to do that well. The big thing for me is "soft failure" if you were in a hauling situation where you generated enough force to sheath a rope, unicore might not give you time to change your shorts, but it may well give you time to get a second rope into the system when a standard rope might have given way, or bound up a pully and made the situation far worse. Not for everyday, but certainly not a gimmick.
Thanks for showing what "unicore" really means
I know you had someone theorising that they rub Unicorn horns to make the rope, but looking at that glue, I think that they were thinking of a different "horn" to the one that Beal use in reality 😂😂
I have never climbed and probably never will cuz there are no mountains here but i love this channel
It's super interesting stuff, I like the idea, improves the rope slightly while maintaining a balance of flexibility and wear capability; if they soaked the rope with glue it would be too stiff, thus the reason why they only cover a small section.
Thanks!
I use a Beal Joker. Unicore: Not bad to have i think. But I would not buy the Joker again, because it feels even thinner than 9.1 and also makes squiggle (?) more easy than others. Beal is known for soft ropes, i like that. I dont like stiff mammut. Best rope i had was Sterling, but you can not buy those in Germany.
OK, I never thought I needed this, but please show us some Velcro on Velcro slack snap. I need to know how much surface area of Velcro overlap it takes to exceed the material breaking strength.
makes me wonder how something like Courant Ultima or Edelrid Prostatic Synctec would do where they are not glued together but braided together to make the unicore
Is there a video about the new tree drop tower? If not, can we get one?
I would try it. Fun watching the the tests!
very nice vidjeo, big ups Beal, though my takeaway with rope videos is usually "use a thicker rope" lol
Excellent stuff!
I have to say: Unicore might or might not be a safety feature for how I climb. But it would be nice to have ropes where the sheath doesn’t all bunch up around one or the other end.
Good job!
Nice to be background filling in a video, am still wondering about my question though! especially with that nice abrasion tester you have now 😉
The most striking point in this for me was the subtle moment that a couple strands slipped out of the ascender when the sheath was stripped.
They have a range of rope diameters they can work on. So the bunch of spaghetti may not break as such... but may slip out 😬
I’d love to see a rub off between the Joker and the swift protect pro.
I’m wondering if unicore ropes in _certain other_ situations might more rapidly wear-out/fuzz-up their sheaths, by virtue of the sheath not having some shock-absorbing “give” longitudinally when the rope is very heavily loaded _also_ cross-sectionally against the rock - e.g., over a sharper edge of rock - and not just longitudinally heavily loaded. I mean, if the sheath won’t ‘give’ longitudinally in that combined-vectors situation, then it’s actually rubbing more impactfully in effect against the rock edge.
my unicore rope is so old that the glue formed little balls under the sheath.. i wonder what category that is.. anyway thx for the video!
Ryan, where did you get your heart ledges t-shirt, I love it and so want one!
Have you tested or discussed the old hemp ropes like they used on ships? How do these compare? Can they be used in climbing? I have no idea about this stuff but your videos found themselves in my feed. So my stupid questions are totally not my fault. 😂 Blame UA-cam. 😁👍
🤣
Does a rope that has been stored well for a few years (5-6y) go bad, so should it be replaced? What I have found out is that a modern synthetic rope that has not been damaged or otherwise badly stored does not need to be replaced.
It strikes me as risky to belay somebody from above on the top and away from the edge, like a typical multipitch situation because it is a dynamic rope that is unprotected and over the edge. Rocks in my area, in any case are sharp with large crystals. And if somebody keeps falling on the same spot it makes me nervous to see and feel the rope grind while holding the belay devic
The "rub master" must be a great conversation starter at parties. 😅
Great vidro. As usual! I always wondered how much unicore can avoid twists in a rope after longer usage. From my understanding those twists are caused by the core twisting inside the sheat, but I'm not sure if this is actually true. Would be interesting to get some info on that
So if you have enough distance between the failure point the glue near the failure just has to hold a little, just enough, so the sheath can start to act like a Chinese finger trap, biting down on the cores.
Oh no! Abrasion!?!
Could you test de-sheathing with toothless ascenders like the Petzl rescuescender which uses a cam? I was thinking about getting one but there isn't much info on them and I don't know anyone who uses one. Also, my buddy reslung his cams with 1/2 inch nylon webbing and we were telling him how sketchy that is so he just doubled them up. Can you possibly test that as well?
There's some tests with toothed vs toothless devices in another video. My takeaway was that it helped slightly, but the sheath still breaks around the same strength.
ua-cam.com/video/8EWSWgo100c/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@@leveller4 I bought a roll-n-lock after I saw that video, but the cam on the Rescuescender is even smoother than the roll-n-lock so I was wondering if that made a difference
I guess if a few strands are glued, it pulls enough to make it act like a chinese finger trap. In splicing you need only tiny bit of force to make it close that increases friction and it closes more.
Was the glue as effective after putting it in the rub master?
If I had to ascend past a core slipped rope like that I would overhand on a bight below the slippage and tie that back to my belay loop with a locker so even if the ascender slipped off I'd still fall on the kern.
pull test the velcroe by the inch - how many inches/feet for 1kn? i
Aaaaaah, someone beat me to the question!
Does the unicorn glue job breakdown over time? Does the softening of the rope related to the core and sheath glue bond breaking down?
GReat video as usual -- AND a great introduction to Beal ropes. How does the unicore deal with extreme temps? like from a 300M or 400M rappel on a rack which can glaze a sheath? And how oes it deal with extreme cold and wet? ice-climbing?
I buy Pro Extreme Unicore 😊
Is it just me that now wants to see Velcro in the slacksnap machine? 😂