Can u pleas test another canyoneering technique like the one in the video called macramé knot? Here's a video explains how it works: ua-cam.com/video/_mQylAy5cAE/v-deo.html
@@HowNOT2 I knew what you meant, it just came out sounded really funny. 😁 Real life for you is not real life for us as we're watching something in a vid - I think that's what you were getting at right? 🤘Also it was only being used to test if it works, not put in work at like a festival or something.
Subscribed for a while now, 52 years old and haven’t been up on the rock since my late teens. I climb trees to rig them before i bring them down and love learning about how ropes and gear interact. I love learning it’s my lifelong addiction!
That hitch with the fiddlestick is also called a marlinspike hitch. I use it a lot for heaving lashing tight with a spike. We also use a similar setup in tugboat work as a quick release for dropping gear but we use a wood “toggle” that is slightly tapered like a splicing fid.
"It has a lot of great applications for situations you are never going to be in." Of all the nonsensical thing I have heard come out of your mouth, this is my new favorite.
The rope jiggling method sounds like the kamikaze knot: a sheep shank with the middle strand cut. It's solid under tension but comes undone when slack. Not something I'd ever want to need but I'd be interested to see you put it to the test (with a second safety rope or just in your machine).
I guess the difference between a rappel and a highline is the highline stays under tension even when you’re not on it. Would need to release some tension before fiddling the stick.
I'm impressed with the creative engineering and performance of the fiddlestick. Thanks for testing and filming the device in use! Full length retrievable rappels is to climbers as turning lead into gold was to medieval alchemists - the impossible goal. If it weren't for the Beal Escaper, I would probably be using Fiddlesticks on a regular basis. Fortunately Beal came through for $50 with an amazing, safe solution that requires no extra retrieval cord. I've been making 60 M / 200 ft. length rappels with the Escaper for 3 years with great success. It is only for experienced, fastidious climbers who thoroughly understand it's use and limitations (it provides numerous loops and such to hang up on during retrieval). For this reason, I would not use it for every rappel, but it is a very powerful and oft used tool in my quiver. I have added a $160 Mammut 6mm x 60 Meter 16 KN aramid rappel cord kit that comes with Nano 8 rap plate and micro oval biner. Mammut authorizes only 30 Meter double strand raps, but I go off label and use it single strand. Add a DMM locking biner on my leg loop and a 4mm french prussik/autoblock and I'm capable of repeated 200 ft. rappels for 4.7 lbs/2.1 kg.
i haven't even climbed in probably 20 years, and i still love this channel. i never really climbed with gear either. i don't know the terms, but i would go up a wall about 10 feet or so, then climb sideways all the way around. a fall would have been painful but not lethal (except for one climb i did across the side of a quarry... why did i do that)
I've been using a variation of this design for years and it's bomber (for rappelling, not slack-lining). I've done tests with weight hanging on the rappel strand and had to pull quite hard in order to get the stick to come out. Our variation has additional holes to allow safety carabiners to be inserted so it's impossible for the stick to come out. The knot tightens on the stick with every person that rappels and only the last one down removes those 2 safety carabiners and rappels down after the knot has become very tight- your highline test demonstrates this very well. It's very safe if you do it right, and as you indicated, eliminates the rope dragging over the edge on retrieval, which then eliminates rope groves. Also, the "Fiddlestick" used in the break test looks a lot more like a "Smooth Operator" invented by Luke from Bluu Gnome Gear. The Fiddlestick itself was made by/for Imlay Canyon Gear out of Mt. Carmel Junction, Utah. He's been making these for years bg-gear.com/smooth-operator-v1.html or Fiddlestick www.canyoneeringusa.com/store/imlay-fiddlestick-advanced-anchor FWIW, I use the Variation we came up with called the "Rap-Sure" which is very similar to the Smooth Operator. Between the two marketed versions, I prefer the Smooth Operator over the Fiddlestick and have used both. Another thing you can do is use a tree or similar object as an anchor. If the anchor is abrasive or jagged (like tree bark) you can protect both the tree and your rope by using something like a Spiroll rope protector around the back of the anchor where the rope goes around the tree. If wrapped tight enough on the rope, it will stay in place and come down with your rope when you pull it down. Also, on the slackline pull test, it's not great to use carabiners to connect to the stick unless you don't mind them getting knocked against the rocks when you go to pull. This is more an issue admittedly, when you are pulling the stick down from a rappel, but just a point to make. When the pull cord is tied directly to the stick, there is not a lot of weight and no carabiner to come falling down. The stick itself will often flutter a bit and sometimes you can even catch it if you are lucky. The fluttering effect slows the fall of the stick down a good amount and if there is no carabiner on it, it doesn't hit the ground with much force.
Could you elaborate on the rap-sure method? I feel like I've heard it mentioned before but I've never seen any explanation of what differentiates it from the smooth operator.
@@pjjenks2144 Hi. Sorry for the delayed response, as I am not on UA-cam that much these days. The "Rap Sure" is a slightly different device than the Smooth operator, but they function the same. The only difference is that the Rap Sure has 4 small holes (2 on each end) where the Smooth Operator has two larger oval holes (1 on each end). This (4-hole pattern) keeps the knot centered in the stick better and resists flexing if the rappel starts on a slop where the safety carabiners come in contact with the rock face. The Smooth Operator has a longer unsupported span between the carabiners on either side and if the slope of the rappel is such where the rope would be pulling down on the stick after the rappeler has weighed the device, the smooth operator will flex. Think of each carabiner being a leg on the table with a long span of table between the legs. The rap sure uses the inner holes for those carabiners and the outer holes are used for the pull cord. The Rap Sure has 4 holes (therefore it's the "holiest" device) and there is a religious pun in there, since so much canyoneering happens in Utah, religious puns are a thing. The slogan is "use the Rap-sure (pun on "Rapture") or get left behind. Hope all this makes sense. This is one of those things easier explained with a diagram than words.
Fascinating stuff. The problems with pulling it out of the webbing made me think of the skydiving industry - different use case, being a life safety issue if it DOESN'T come out, but the closing pin that secures the main and reserve parachutes are curved so that they release properly from the closing loop. But then I doubt that you want to be on a line that is held by a smooth round curved metal spike!
Just saw a TV commercial for Ryan’s new Discovery + series. The big quote from the commercial…. “They must live every moment cause they could die any second.” What a dramatic new tag line and T-shirt motto, lol…
I would love to see a video where you use random items as fiddle sticks (rocks, small logs, stuff you can find in the wild, etc.) thanks for a great video as usual ❤
How about strength testing the equivocation hitch, aka macrame knot or hitch? My preference would be for a dynamic climbing rope of varying diameters. Thanks!!
Have become a fan of this channel over the last 10 or so days awesome stuff, im to much of wuss to try any of it but its really cool to see yall do it.
Ryan is to be known as No Backup Ryan from now on!! Seriously doing an experiment on a highline and not having a super solid backup ? Backup and main both had hairpin triggers to pull cords!
UA-cam stop recommending me the funny high liner challenge, I am afraid of heights thank you very much. I'll keep watching these even though I'm never setting foot on a mountain wall :-)
The jiggle method can be done with a sheepshank knot at the top as it won’t come loose under load, when tide properly. I’ve also used a Yosemite bowline loop around the rope with some paracord ties to the loop; when you pull the paracord the loop simply is pulled down just like using a double rope. You have to be quite confident and trusting in your pioneering skills to use the sheepshank method. When you tie the sheepshank you cut 1 of the 3 legs after you load the knot; this method does leave a short length of rope at the top which isn’t leave no trace.
Very cool to see numbers on this. If you get into more canyoneering tests it would be interesting to see failure test for marginal anchors such as cairns, vs and bags, backpacks, etc.
A similar technique is using a CEM as your anchor. You run a bight through the quick link and tie three half hitches around the bight. The rope used to tie the half hitches is your rap line and the other side is your recovery line. It would be awesome to see the forces in that setup.
"help"??? You'll still find some guys stupid enough to try the same "experiment" because they've seen a video on youtube. Seriously, they don't use any backup technique in case it fails
Yes, I started vertical sports with canyoneering. I’m so stoked you are interested in it. You should break test an Omni sling and a macrame retrievable rope.
About the shirt designs: i really like the "super good enough" slogan. But, as an non-highliner the disign is to highliney. Maybe an idea to add a climber-oriented design using this slogan?
For the release of the mainline, perhaps a quick detension, or a soft release on the tensioning side would loosen things up enough to pop out that fiddlestick
Great stuff! One comment on the "will the fiddlestick come out at the wrong time" question. On a typical canyoneering rappel, with extra rope friction, it seems like the max load the fiddlestick will see is ~50-60% of bodyweight. In that situation I think it is much easier to accidentally knock the stick out by jamming it against a wall or pull it out by snagging the pull cord. I'd be curious to see what the combinations are of forces in the mainline and forces required to pull the stick out. Keep being sketchy so we don't have to!
11:00 The "Beal escaper" is what has recently come out here in France, I've never used it outside (I tried it in a store once), but it's obviously safe or they wouldn't sell it over here! I'd like to see you throw those in the slacksnap...
I'd be surprised if this was the first time this comment has been made, but I would love to see the "Kamakazi Knot" tested for single sided repelling where you make a sheep shank and then cut the line that connects the two loops, and as long as you keep tension the knot holds itself together but once you get to the bottom you can, supposedly, shake the rope loose and only lose a little bit of rope.
@IHowNOT2 (or whom ever else actually knows how these "sticks" work :) I might be totally wrong, but my understanding of how the "fiddleStick" is "supposed to work is that while the rope that the "stick" is "jamming" is under tension, the rope is "pinching" the "stick" and preventing it from getting pulled. And if that assumption is correct You would need to "slack of " the webbing in order to pull that last "fiddleStick". Then again I might have totally misunderstood how this works (is supposed to work). How ever I really enjoyed the video, and that is all that matters since I neither climb, rappel or slackline :) Best regards.
The Beal escaper is the expensive option, that is recommended by most guides! The poor option is a sheepshank with the middle stand cut, so that you only leave maybe a meter of rope behind. Apparently the sheepshank will collapse and fail after a certain weight.
IDK if you've already seen it before but the Equivocation Hitch a similar single line retrievable anchor technique that using only the rap line. I've used it rapping off bolts, rap rings or simply slung a round a tree.
I’m noticing that the axial twist of the fiddle is sort of the secret to its efficiency. The load in the line keeps it from slipping out, so would it be impossible to pull it out yourself considering you’d have to overcome your own weight and then beyond a critical limit(angle,friction,etc)? I’m curious because when trying to engage the release, pulling from sort of side angles whereas I see it working best when pulled directly in the direction of the line. -NewSub, first channel view and looks like I’m already hooked. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
polished titanium tube with rounded over ends with the rope attachment going through a middle pipe all the way from one end to the other, rounded entry and exit, with a stopper knot on the end. could be 7075 t6 as well to lower the cost
Beal makes a system, it might be called the Escape, not sure though. hopefully you can find it and test it out because it is something I am interested in buying to use. Now that I am aware of fiddle sticks I may have to find or make one to try out. thanks for the cool content!
You can use an alipline butterfly with a locking carabiner to do a single rappell and when you are done you pull on the other end of the rope, you are only rappelling on one side but you need to have both ends touching the ground so you can retrieve the rope from the bottom
3:05 What about using a friction hitch around the stick that is way to loose and would slip if you pull the cord. Then add another cord that loops through the friction hitch and keeps the hitch on the stick if pulled. So then you have to pull on both cords but at first harder on one of them to tighten the friction hitch and then you have to release one of the cords (maybe partially to keep the hitch tight) and then pull the other cord to pull the stick. The stick could be made a bit more like a half circle to ensure the friction hitch would fall off if accidentally pulled.
I now want to see how a slight taper might affect it (beyond hopefully making it easier to remove). How much taper can you get before it pushes out instead of cuts the fiddlestick? Is a different material better? So many questions, and I don't expect you to answer them.
The "wiggle" method uses a sheep shank with the unstressed strand cut before you rappel. It works! and sometimes can be detached by shaking (sometimes not 🤨), but I'd love to see it stress tested. And maybe try fiddle sticks made from different materials (I assume yours were Lexan?) try wood, carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, etc. 👍
Is really interesting to see the difference between canyoning in the the States and (my own) Canyon technics over europe Good job! (Sorry for bad english BTW)
This implementation of the fiddle stick into the highline seemed sooo sketchy, but I think it shows promise. I definitely don't think you should have the webbing wrapped around the fiddle stick, but maybe you could make a soft shackle with a long tail or strong climbing rope. The problem with the fiddle stick being too difficult to pull could be solved by using a soft release at the tension side. Also you could thread the release cord back through the bolt so after the fiddle stick pops you can gentle lower the line down. I would defo not trust the line you walked but with some modifications and a bunch more testing it could be viable for lines where one anchor is hard to access
I think the plastic is too soft, especially to use with loads this high. Make it an aluminum tube and it will not only be stronger but it will also pull out a lot more smoothly. On the downside it’ll have less friction while you want the friction to be high, as well, ie, the risk of it pulling out before you want it to will also go up.
@@tobiasbrewin4355 basically, it needs a lot of testing to find out what kind of material is a) strong enough b) has enough friction and c) has low enough friction. And the testing is most likely not a priori going to be valid for all rope/sling materials wrapped around the marlinspike, either. I wonder who we know that likes testing things? A thought I had is - metal snake solid? - What if you make a wavy metal stick, will that hold better and still be easier to remove by using a jerking pull? PS: I’m pretty sure the ideal technique for removing any of these involves jerking, if at all possible, rather than high continuous pressure with a winch. PPS: You might also consider dyneema line for the pull cord. The low friction might help it pass across the rock, , and high strength means you can use 2.4 or even 1.8 mm and still be stronger than 450 para. On the downside I guess there’s the chafing damage while using it, but generic UHMWPE cord in 1.8 or 2.4 is suuuuper cheap, and if it breaks, you don’t lose your life, just your rope, and as such, well... more easily worth taking a chance on, right?
Big Fan Here! A bit concerned that you used a 'home made' Toggle, rather than an actual Imlay FiddleStick, or Bluugnome Smooth Operator. The homemade toggle is a rather crude. Also, you should point out that it is polycarbonate rather the the weak acrylic that is easier to find at the hardware store. Happy to send you any ropes or devices you would like to test. (Very concerned that Highlining produces higher loads. Canyoneering is a stupid sport... but highlining?)
Thanks for the great work you do! ☮️❤️🌈 In skydiving we use a "stainless steel curved closing pin" to pass through a "closing loop" (just an eyelet or bite of 2mm braided nylon) that passes through a hole in the "closing flap" of the "main container" that holds your "main canopy". There, now you're ready to skydive. #PoesLaw Seriously though, you could use the same concept in place of a Fiddlestick in your highline webbing. It's like a Marlin Spike that is curved to accommodate the fact that you are pulling it parallel to the load instead of perpendicular. Words are hard. Find some photos. The internet is your friend.
Something related to climbing equipment is monkey tail/personal retention lanyard we use while riding in helicopters. Lots of the hardware is rated (some looks pretty sketch) but nothing really in the way of testing. Maybe something for the future.
What if the fiddlesticks were kinda boomerang shaped or curved so that they would pull out a bit easier with the pull cord at an acute angle? Just a thought.
Why didn't i think of that? It didn't have much on there but that could work. I realized I could have just tied a short 10mm rope to the end of the sewn loop of the webbing and done a traditional rope method with it and it would have probably worked a lot easier and been stronger.
Some thing with a soft release seems way more appropriate for release under tension. Maybe you use just a few wraps of soft, then a quick release like the fiddlestick to release it. Avoids your main webbing being on the bolt and knotted. You could even extend the softrelease out so it's the only thing that could possibly rub. Still a bad idea.
What about instead of using a fiddle stick, you pass a bight of rope from the tail through, then tie a pull cord onto the end of the tail? Also i wonder if adding a daisy chain loop before the fiddle stick would reduce the tension on the holding knot a bit, making it a bit easier to release under tension?
My idea: create a detachable anchor is to have 3 short ropes connect together by a bfk to create the master point. Pass the tails of the strings inside the glue in bolts and lock them as shown at the beginning of the video (1:30). This way you sould have a super good enough anchor with 3 Fiddlestick connected togheter. If you detension the other side should be easyer to pull the Fiddlestick out one at the time. What do you think?
Great video! Would be interested in seeing how super good enough a true stick you would find in a canyon would do as a fiddlestick in a pinch! Or a macrame knot (ghost knot) which is what you refer to as "jiggling" free.
I'm like, "fiddlestick" oh that could be useful for some of my repels. Then Ryan throws it on a Highline and I'm like, F@#& THAT!!! Balls of Steel! Very interesting research for sure. Thanks Ryan!
Donkeys years ago for caving we were using a metal rod inside of a milled piece of Nylon or teflon, can't remember (i guess) in stead of that piece of plastic. i'd be afraid that plastic would break and i'd start flying unintentionally LOL! The milled plastic was thicker at it's ends than in the middle and the stainless rod, impossible to fail. U have balls going on that bit of lucite or whatever plastic it was.
This seems safer then the Beal escaper lol..I have one and have tested it about 10 times now on horizontal ground..Haven't had the balls to actually try it on a rappel yet..It does work it just seems slippery when new..I wanna get some friction fuzz on the system before I real world use it
I used it a couple of times in real life situations. It was just so hard to retrieve, I had to tug it for real like 20 times to get it undone. Pretty safe if you ask me.
@@moonti6820 huh..Mine comes out with just about 10 quick tugs...I wonder if the weight of the rope makes a difference too on how much easier it rebounds and pulls through the system
Or your could just tie it to your climb rope and do a rap like everyone else. Minimum MBS of static ropes is 20 kN and your amsteel only needs to be half that because its only doing half the work.
@@elmeradams8781 the fiddlesticks use a tagline which would never be in a life supporting role so I was making a joust that if you use 1/8 amsteel (10 kN) as a tagline you might as well use it to extend your rope instead. Canyoneers rap all day on 6mm 8kN rope. The one advantage the fiddlestick is supposed to have is that you wont have to pull a lot of rope but dropping a line extended with amsteel will zip right through. Retrievable slings are way less sketchy.
Another Canyoneering anchor I'd love to see tested is the figure 8 contingency anchor that allows someone at the top by the anchor to lower someone on rappel in the event the rope is not long enough or their rap device jams
I'd like to see how much force you would need to pull the fiddlestick out of the knot when the rope is under tension. I feel like that's a more realistic scenario even if it's less entertaining than breaking it.
5:57 You should have a much longer tail on that stopper! I've read that you should have about 18" or half a meter. I generally go with less but I would retie that one for sure.
My only concern with this would be if the fiddle stick was out of view and you had issues pulling it out. The temptation to climb back up to fix it would be high (ha) to retrieve the rope and try again. Would it be possible for it to get stuck or hung up half way out? Maybe some tests with bad fiddle stick placements?
Your comments are hilarious. Keep them coming!
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
*Your
😉
Talking to people a little in the comments section helps encourage people to leave a lot more comments in later videos
Or so I've been told.
Cause I'd like to see this channel grow, so get on that "viewer engagement" game
Can u pleas test another canyoneering technique like the one in the video called macramé knot?
Here's a video explains how it works:
ua-cam.com/video/_mQylAy5cAE/v-deo.html
HowNOTtoBIRTHDAY!!
Happy birthday man!!
The Beal Escaper is a product I would love to see!
I second this, it's the product he mentioned at about 10:55
Yep, was just googling to confirm this is the name of the product that he is talking about
This!
Yeap, have one and it works great. But it would be nice to have a test !
Ryan please test the Beal Escaper.
"I don't think I'd actually do this in real life"
He says after actually doing it in real life! xD
Took the words right out of my mouth!
I guess that doesn't make sense. "Do as I say not as I do" would have probably been better to say haha.
@@HowNOT2 I knew what you meant, it just came out sounded really funny. 😁
Real life for you is not real life for us as we're watching something in a vid - I think that's what you were getting at right? 🤘Also it was only being used to test if it works, not put in work at like a festival or something.
Subscribed for a while now, 52 years old and haven’t been up on the rock since my late teens. I climb trees to rig them before i bring them down and love learning about how ropes and gear interact. I love learning it’s my lifelong addiction!
That hitch with the fiddlestick is also called a marlinspike hitch. I use it a lot for heaving lashing tight with a spike. We also use a similar setup in tugboat work as a quick release for dropping gear but we use a wood “toggle” that is slightly tapered like a splicing fid.
4:55 "luckily I made bit to the ground" let's just say if the fiddle stick had failed you'd have still made it to the ground!
True, but I was aware that I made it to the ground. That is the difference haha
"It has a lot of great applications for situations you are never going to be in."
Of all the nonsensical thing I have heard come out of your mouth, this is my new favorite.
Its good when you need to rapell using entire length of your rope and retreiving over area that has alot of friction
@@julianchavez3372 Even then you will manage to pull the rope😉
@@herpfar7651 no
@@julianchavez3372 If it's too strong, you're too weak😇
@@herpfar7651 if your to dumb your to dumb.
The rope jiggling method sounds like the kamikaze knot: a sheep shank with the middle strand cut. It's solid under tension but comes undone when slack. Not something I'd ever want to need but I'd be interested to see you put it to the test (with a second safety rope or just in your machine).
I guess the difference between a rappel and a highline is the highline stays under tension even when you’re not on it. Would need to release some tension before fiddling the stick.
I'm impressed with the creative engineering and performance of the fiddlestick. Thanks for testing and filming the device in use! Full length retrievable rappels is to climbers as turning lead into gold was to medieval alchemists - the impossible goal. If it weren't for the Beal Escaper, I would probably be using Fiddlesticks on a regular basis.
Fortunately Beal came through for $50 with an amazing, safe solution that requires no extra retrieval cord. I've been making 60 M / 200 ft. length rappels with the Escaper for 3 years with great success. It is only for experienced, fastidious climbers who thoroughly understand it's use and limitations (it provides numerous loops and such to hang up on during retrieval). For this reason, I would not use it for every rappel, but it is a very powerful and oft used tool in my quiver.
I have added a $160 Mammut 6mm x 60 Meter 16 KN aramid rappel cord kit that comes with Nano 8 rap plate and micro oval biner. Mammut authorizes only 30 Meter double strand raps, but I go off label and use it single strand. Add a DMM locking biner on my leg loop and a 4mm french prussik/autoblock and I'm capable of repeated 200 ft. rappels for 4.7 lbs/2.1 kg.
Hey Man,
Looks like you put some real effort into this one. Glad you had fun. Enjoyed it.
Daily uploads are doin it for me. It helps to feel more engaged with the channel and I'd say I've been more likely to watch the videos recently 👍
i haven't even climbed in probably 20 years, and i still love this channel. i never really climbed with gear either. i don't know the terms, but i would go up a wall about 10 feet or so, then climb sideways all the way around. a fall would have been painful but not lethal (except for one climb i did across the side of a quarry... why did i do that)
I've been using a variation of this design for years and it's bomber (for rappelling, not slack-lining). I've done tests with weight hanging on the rappel strand and had to pull quite hard in order to get the stick to come out. Our variation has additional holes to allow safety carabiners to be inserted so it's impossible for the stick to come out. The knot tightens on the stick with every person that rappels and only the last one down removes those 2 safety carabiners and rappels down after the knot has become very tight- your highline test demonstrates this very well. It's very safe if you do it right, and as you indicated, eliminates the rope dragging over the edge on retrieval, which then eliminates rope groves. Also, the "Fiddlestick" used in the break test looks a lot more like a "Smooth Operator" invented by Luke from Bluu Gnome Gear. The Fiddlestick itself was made by/for Imlay Canyon Gear out of Mt. Carmel Junction, Utah.
He's been making these for years
bg-gear.com/smooth-operator-v1.html
or Fiddlestick
www.canyoneeringusa.com/store/imlay-fiddlestick-advanced-anchor
FWIW, I use the Variation we came up with called the "Rap-Sure" which is very similar to the Smooth Operator. Between the two marketed versions, I prefer the Smooth Operator over the Fiddlestick and have used both.
Another thing you can do is use a tree or similar object as an anchor. If the anchor is abrasive or jagged (like tree bark) you can protect both the tree and your rope by using something like a Spiroll rope protector around the back of the anchor where the rope goes around the tree. If wrapped tight enough on the rope, it will stay in place and come down with your rope when you pull it down.
Also, on the slackline pull test, it's not great to use carabiners to connect to the stick unless you don't mind them getting knocked against the rocks when you go to pull. This is more an issue admittedly, when you are pulling the stick down from a rappel, but just a point to make. When the pull cord is tied directly to the stick, there is not a lot of weight and no carabiner to come falling down. The stick itself will often flutter a bit and sometimes you can even catch it if you are lucky. The fluttering effect slows the fall of the stick down a good amount and if there is no carabiner on it, it doesn't hit the ground with much force.
Could you elaborate on the rap-sure method? I feel like I've heard it mentioned before but I've never seen any explanation of what differentiates it from the smooth operator.
@@pjjenks2144 Hi. Sorry for the delayed response, as I am not on UA-cam that much these days. The "Rap Sure" is a slightly different device than the Smooth operator, but they function the same. The only difference is that the Rap Sure has 4 small holes (2 on each end) where the Smooth Operator has two larger oval holes (1 on each end). This (4-hole pattern) keeps the knot centered in the stick better and resists flexing if the rappel starts on a slop where the safety carabiners come in contact with the rock face. The Smooth Operator has a longer unsupported span between the carabiners on either side and if the slope of the rappel is such where the rope would be pulling down on the stick after the rappeler has weighed the device, the smooth operator will flex. Think of each carabiner being a leg on the table with a long span of table between the legs. The rap sure uses the inner holes for those carabiners and the outer holes are used for the pull cord. The Rap Sure has 4 holes (therefore it's the "holiest" device) and there is a religious pun in there, since so much canyoneering happens in Utah, religious puns are a thing. The slogan is "use the Rap-sure (pun on "Rapture") or get left behind. Hope all this makes sense. This is one of those things easier explained with a diagram than words.
Stopper knots!!!!! Good to see you folks stressing the importance!
Fascinating stuff. The problems with pulling it out of the webbing made me think of the skydiving industry - different use case, being a life safety issue if it DOESN'T come out, but the closing pin that secures the main and reserve parachutes are curved so that they release properly from the closing loop. But then I doubt that you want to be on a line that is held by a smooth round curved metal spike!
Just saw a TV commercial for Ryan’s new Discovery + series. The big quote from the commercial…. “They must live every moment cause they could die any second.” What a dramatic new tag line and T-shirt motto, lol…
I would love to see a video where you use random items as fiddle sticks (rocks, small logs, stuff you can find in the wild, etc.) thanks for a great video as usual ❤
How about strength testing the equivocation hitch, aka macrame knot or hitch? My preference would be for a dynamic climbing rope of varying diameters. Thanks!!
Have become a fan of this channel over the last 10 or so days awesome stuff, im to much of wuss to try any of it but its really cool to see yall do it.
1:45..... I agree 100%, pulling out before your done totally sucks.
Ryan is to be known as No Backup Ryan from now on!! Seriously doing an experiment on a highline and not having a super solid backup ? Backup and main both had hairpin triggers to pull cords!
UA-cam stop recommending me the funny high liner challenge, I am afraid of heights thank you very much. I'll keep watching these even though I'm never setting foot on a mountain wall :-)
The jiggle method can be done with a sheepshank knot at the top as it won’t come loose under load, when tide properly. I’ve also used a Yosemite bowline loop around the rope with some paracord ties to the loop; when you pull the paracord the loop simply is pulled down just like using a double rope. You have to be quite confident and trusting in your pioneering skills to use the sheepshank method. When you tie the sheepshank you cut 1 of the 3 legs after you load the knot; this method does leave a short length of rope at the top which isn’t leave no trace.
Andy is a skydiving/base jumping legend. Wasn't expecting to see him!
What about detensioning the system from the side you are pulling from before fiddling your stick?
Very cool to see numbers on this. If you get into more canyoneering tests it would be interesting to see failure test for marginal anchors such as cairns, vs and bags, backpacks, etc.
inb4 1 million subs, in all honesty this channel is super under rated. great content, always give me anxiety. nice work!
Really great video. I never heard of a fiddle stick before. Props for walking a fiddled line!
A similar technique is using a CEM as your anchor. You run a bight through the quick link and tie three half hitches around the bight. The rope used to tie the half hitches is your rap line and the other side is your recovery line. It would be awesome to see the forces in that setup.
These are super common in Canyoning and they do like 200ft rappels on the regular.
I don't highline, I don't slackline. But I subbed because you seem like a nice person trying to help your community and I really like watching you.
"help"??? You'll still find some guys stupid enough to try the same "experiment" because they've seen a video on youtube. Seriously, they don't use any backup technique in case it fails
@@grosminetytp5520 uhhh, ok? not sure what that has to do with him trying to help the community with his channel.
Awesome! Perhaps use a wave bolt as the fiddlestick (break test?), and with a soft release on the tension side!
I have to admitt that is a pretty slick highline setup!
Seams really light too
Nice!
Yes, I started vertical sports with canyoneering. I’m so stoked you are interested in it. You should break test an Omni sling and a macrame retrievable rope.
Fascinating! I feel this would be great in Moab where pulling long heavy ropes will groove the rock.
About the shirt designs: i really like the "super good enough" slogan. But, as an non-highliner the disign is to highliney. Maybe an idea to add a climber-oriented design using this slogan?
I need more shirt designs for sure!
Happy birthday Ryan! Thanks for the videos
For the release of the mainline, perhaps a quick detension, or a soft release on the tensioning side would loosen things up enough to pop out that fiddlestick
OMG! living on the edge! Good job Ryan :-)
Great stuff! One comment on the "will the fiddlestick come out at the wrong time" question. On a typical canyoneering rappel, with extra rope friction, it seems like the max load the fiddlestick will see is ~50-60% of bodyweight. In that situation I think it is much easier to accidentally knock the stick out by jamming it against a wall or pull it out by snagging the pull cord. I'd be curious to see what the combinations are of forces in the mainline and forces required to pull the stick out. Keep being sketchy so we don't have to!
I think the knot is a Marlin spike hitch? They are used pretty often in smocking
11:00 The "Beal escaper" is what has recently come out here in France, I've never used it outside (I tried it in a store once), but it's obviously safe or they wouldn't sell it over here! I'd like to see you throw those in the slacksnap...
I'd be surprised if this was the first time this comment has been made, but I would love to see the "Kamakazi Knot" tested for single sided repelling where you make a sheep shank and then cut the line that connects the two loops, and as long as you keep tension the knot holds itself together but once you get to the bottom you can, supposedly, shake the rope loose and only lose a little bit of rope.
@IHowNOT2 (or whom ever else actually knows how these "sticks" work :)
I might be totally wrong, but my understanding of how the "fiddleStick" is "supposed to work is that while the rope that the "stick" is "jamming" is under tension, the rope is "pinching" the "stick" and preventing it from getting pulled.
And if that assumption is correct You would need to "slack of " the webbing in order to pull that last "fiddleStick".
Then again I might have totally misunderstood how this works (is supposed to work).
How ever I really enjoyed the video, and that is all that matters since I neither climb, rappel or slackline :)
Best regards.
The Beal escaper is the expensive option, that is recommended by most guides!
The poor option is a sheepshank with the middle stand cut, so that you only leave maybe a meter of rope behind. Apparently the sheepshank will collapse and fail after a certain weight.
Everything will colapse and fall after a certain weight if the weight is high enough. 😁
I wonder if the heat from the soft goods getting pulled is causing the acrylic(?) of the Fiddlestick to become more pliable (bendier)... 🤔
Double rings as used in arborist work. and they are strong. Single point anchors is NUTS!
IDK if you've already seen it before but the Equivocation Hitch a similar single line retrievable anchor technique that using only the rap line. I've used it rapping off bolts, rap rings or simply slung a round a tree.
Very cool. Love when Andy is in the videos
I’m noticing that the axial twist of the fiddle is sort of the secret to its efficiency. The load in the line keeps it from slipping out, so would it be impossible to pull it out yourself considering you’d have to overcome your own weight and then beyond a critical limit(angle,friction,etc)?
I’m curious because when trying to engage the release, pulling from sort of side angles whereas I see it working best when pulled directly in the direction of the line.
-NewSub, first channel view and looks like I’m already hooked. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
You we're talking about the Beal Escaper. The thing you wiggle and it get's loose ;)
polished titanium tube with rounded over ends with the rope attachment going through a middle pipe all the way from one end to the other, rounded entry and exit, with a stopper knot on the end. could be 7075 t6 as well to lower the cost
Hi. In contrary, I think pulling it parallel to the rappel line can produce a wrench motion that might release the grip on the fiddlestick.
Beal makes a system, it might be called the Escape, not sure though. hopefully you can find it and test it out because it is something I am interested in buying to use. Now that I am aware of fiddle sticks I may have to find or make one to try out. thanks for the cool content!
REALLY want to see you pull a Beal Escaper. I think it’ll slip rather than break outright, but I’d love to see what it does.
yeah, this is the "bounce" thing he references. I've seen a lot of testing of it, Yann from Bliss Climbing swears by it.
You can use an alipline butterfly with a locking carabiner to do a single rappell and when you are done you pull on the other end of the rope, you are only rappelling on one side but you need to have both ends touching the ground so you can retrieve the rope from the bottom
3:05 What about using a friction hitch around the stick that is way to loose and would slip if you pull the cord. Then add another cord that loops through the friction hitch and keeps the hitch on the stick if pulled. So then you have to pull on both cords but at first harder on one of them to tighten the friction hitch and then you have to release one of the cords (maybe partially to keep the hitch tight) and then pull the other cord to pull the stick. The stick could be made a bit more like a half circle to ensure the friction hitch would fall off if accidentally pulled.
I now want to see how a slight taper might affect it (beyond hopefully making it easier to remove). How much taper can you get before it pushes out instead of cuts the fiddlestick? Is a different material better? So many questions, and I don't expect you to answer them.
Im subscriber for 2 years love the channel
have you tried to use more static tagline? like thin aramid. Thin PA ropes stretch like crazy on these lengthes
test fi-fi hook rappel 😁
The "wiggle" method uses a sheep shank with the unstressed strand cut before you rappel. It works! and sometimes can be detached by shaking (sometimes not 🤨), but I'd love to see it stress tested. And maybe try fiddle sticks made from different materials (I assume yours were Lexan?) try wood, carbon fiber, aluminum, steel, etc. 👍
Is really interesting to see the difference between canyoning in the the States and (my own) Canyon technics over europe
Good job!
(Sorry for bad english BTW)
This has been great, confidence building video for friends. Thanks so much guys!
This implementation of the fiddle stick into the highline seemed sooo sketchy, but I think it shows promise. I definitely don't think you should have the webbing wrapped around the fiddle stick, but maybe you could make a soft shackle with a long tail or strong climbing rope.
The problem with the fiddle stick being too difficult to pull could be solved by using a soft release at the tension side.
Also you could thread the release cord back through the bolt so after the fiddle stick pops you can gentle lower the line down.
I would defo not trust the line you walked but with some modifications and a bunch more testing it could be viable for lines where one anchor is hard to access
I think the plastic is too soft, especially to use with loads this high. Make it an aluminum tube and it will not only be stronger but it will also pull out a lot more smoothly. On the downside it’ll have less friction while you want the friction to be high, as well, ie, the risk of it pulling out before you want it to will also go up.
@@JasperJanssen yeah that's a good shout, ideally the mbs should be around 30kN
@@tobiasbrewin4355 basically, it needs a lot of testing to find out what kind of material is a) strong enough b) has enough friction and c) has low enough friction. And the testing is most likely not a priori going to be valid for all rope/sling materials wrapped around the marlinspike, either. I wonder who we know that likes testing things?
A thought I had is - metal snake solid? - What if you make a wavy metal stick, will that hold better and still be easier to remove by using a jerking pull?
PS: I’m pretty sure the ideal technique for removing any of these involves jerking, if at all possible, rather than high continuous pressure with a winch.
PPS: You might also consider dyneema line for the pull cord. The low friction might help it pass across the rock, , and high strength means you can use 2.4 or even 1.8 mm and still be stronger than 450 para. On the downside I guess there’s the chafing damage while using it, but generic UHMWPE cord in 1.8 or 2.4 is suuuuper cheap, and if it breaks, you don’t lose your life, just your rope, and as such, well... more easily worth taking a chance on, right?
Love the videos! So informative and fun to watch.
Big Fan Here! A bit concerned that you used a 'home made' Toggle, rather than an actual Imlay FiddleStick, or Bluugnome Smooth Operator. The homemade toggle is a rather crude. Also, you should point out that it is polycarbonate rather the the weak acrylic that is easier to find at the hardware store. Happy to send you any ropes or devices you would like to test. (Very concerned that Highlining produces higher loads. Canyoneering is a stupid sport... but highlining?)
As you have shown, works with rope, not so much with webbing.
(later) Good job showing that this is not a Highlining device.
I'm part of the twenty%.. It really should be the other way around. 80% subbed..
I mean like its 2021 people come on!
Thanks for the great work you do! ☮️❤️🌈 In skydiving we use a "stainless steel curved closing pin" to pass through a "closing loop" (just an eyelet or bite of 2mm braided nylon) that passes through a hole in the "closing flap" of the "main container" that holds your "main canopy". There, now you're ready to skydive. #PoesLaw Seriously though, you could use the same concept in place of a Fiddlestick in your highline webbing. It's like a Marlin Spike that is curved to accommodate the fact that you are pulling it parallel to the load instead of perpendicular. Words are hard. Find some photos. The internet is your friend.
Something related to climbing equipment is monkey tail/personal retention lanyard we use while riding in helicopters. Lots of the hardware is rated (some looks pretty sketch) but nothing really in the way of testing. Maybe something for the future.
Connect a short length of 10mm static rope to the end of your webbing. Fiddle Stick the static rope instead of the webbing. It'll release easier.
This is one of your best vids!!
I've wondered about these for so long! I'm so glad you torture tested them!!!
What if the fiddlesticks were kinda boomerang shaped or curved so that they would pull out a bit easier with the pull cord at an acute angle? Just a thought.
Could you drop tension on the high line from the recovery side so the second fiddle stick pulls easier?
The issue seemed to be there even while not under tension during Slacksnap. Might just be a well tightened knot.
Why didn't i think of that? It didn't have much on there but that could work. I realized I could have just tied a short 10mm rope to the end of the sewn loop of the webbing and done a traditional rope method with it and it would have probably worked a lot easier and been stronger.
@@HowNOT2 You could try a few daisy chain braids with the running knot, maybe it would tighten less while under tension.
Some thing with a soft release seems way more appropriate for release under tension. Maybe you use just a few wraps of soft, then a quick release like the fiddlestick to release it.
Avoids your main webbing being on the bolt and knotted. You could even extend the softrelease out so it's the only thing that could possibly rub.
Still a bad idea.
What about instead of using a fiddle stick, you pass a bight of rope from the tail through, then tie a pull cord onto the end of the tail? Also i wonder if adding a daisy chain loop before the fiddle stick would reduce the tension on the holding knot a bit, making it a bit easier to release under tension?
My idea: create a detachable anchor is to have 3 short ropes connect together by a bfk to create the master point. Pass the tails of the strings inside the glue in bolts and lock them as shown at the beginning of the video (1:30). This way you sould have a super good enough anchor with 3 Fiddlestick connected togheter. If you detension the other side should be easyer to pull the Fiddlestick out one at the time.
What do you think?
Great video! Would be interested in seeing how super good enough a true stick you would find in a canyon would do as a fiddlestick in a pinch! Or a macrame knot (ghost knot) which is what you refer to as "jiggling" free.
Can you use the end of the rope with a tag line to block the knot as well, or would it be impossible to pull from the bottom/after you rappel?
thought this would be just another break test video... but man it was a good one.
Why wouldn't you use a metal fiddlestick instead of acrylic? Seems it would be smoother and stronger.
My guess is weight.
@A R Falling to your death because you trusted plastic to hold you also sucks.
@@moonti6820 I get that, but a short titanium rod is significantly lighter than a second rope
@@BenKickert But pretty expensive in comparison to acrylic ?
@@moonti6820 I mean you can get round titanium tent stakes for less than $5 apiece, so what are we talking about? $20?
I'm like, "fiddlestick" oh that could be useful for some of my repels. Then Ryan throws it on a Highline and I'm like, F@#& THAT!!! Balls of Steel! Very interesting research for sure. Thanks Ryan!
Happy Birthday Ryan!! 🥳
Great video! I do a lot of canyoneering and have always wondered how strong those are!
I love that the fiddlestick makes the weirdest freaking bowline/sheet bend you'll ever see
Donkeys years ago for caving we were using a metal rod inside of a milled piece of Nylon or teflon, can't remember (i guess) in stead of that piece of plastic. i'd be afraid that plastic would break and i'd start flying unintentionally LOL! The milled plastic was thicker at it's ends than in the middle and the stainless rod, impossible to fail. U have balls going on that bit of lucite or whatever plastic it was.
Yeah, I was thinking once the plastic hits the ground there may be a micro crack in it, and you may not see the crack.
What would happened if the only anchor/bolt fails? Should be this done with double anchor?
Please test the Beal Escaper!
ok, ok, ok. 15th comment about this. I'll order one tonight! 😂
So sketchy doooooood! Can't believe you tested both your line and backup on an unproven setup. Wooooof
It was a redundantly bad idea haha
This seems safer then the Beal escaper lol..I have one and have tested it about 10 times now on horizontal ground..Haven't had the balls to actually try it on a rappel yet..It does work it just seems slippery when new..I wanna get some friction fuzz on the system before I real world use it
I used it a couple of times in real life situations. It was just so hard to retrieve, I had to tug it for real like 20 times to get it undone. Pretty safe if you ask me.
@@moonti6820 huh..Mine comes out with just about 10 quick tugs...I wonder if the weight of the rope makes a difference too on how much easier it rebounds and pulls through the system
1/8 Amsteel is far superior to pull cord for pulling a fiddle stick. It’s way stronger and the zero stretch creates less of a projectile hazard.
Or your could just tie it to your climb rope and do a rap like everyone else. Minimum MBS of static ropes is 20 kN and your amsteel only needs to be half that because its only doing half the work.
@@numbers1606 please explain. (I'm a noob, trying to get into climbing).
@@numbers1606 Toggles are to reduce rope grooves, reduce the chance of stuck ropes and ghosting canyons.
@@JohnnyYuma405 you wont make grooves in any of the self belay methods.
@@elmeradams8781 the fiddlesticks use a tagline which would never be in a life supporting role so I was making a joust that if you use 1/8 amsteel (10 kN) as a tagline you might as well use it to extend your rope instead. Canyoneers rap all day on 6mm 8kN rope. The one advantage the fiddlestick is supposed to have is that you wont have to pull a lot of rope but dropping a line extended with amsteel will zip right through. Retrievable slings are way less sketchy.
would a curved fiddle stick work for the highlines? might make it easier to pull out from that angle. like a banana shape roughly
Another Canyoneering anchor I'd love to see tested is the figure 8 contingency anchor that allows someone at the top by the anchor to lower someone on rappel in the event the rope is not long enough or their rap device jams
I'd like to see how much force you would need to pull the fiddlestick out of the knot when the rope is under tension. I feel like that's a more realistic scenario even if it's less entertaining than breaking it.
Be cool to see some failure tests on typical rigging and anchors used by canyoneers, sandtraps, water traps, and contigency rigging
is there any way you could have let a little tension off from the side you were pulling from?
5:57
You should have a much longer tail on that stopper! I've read that you should have about 18" or half a meter. I generally go with less but I would retie that one for sure.
My only concern with this would be if the fiddle stick was out of view and you had issues pulling it out. The temptation to climb back up to fix it would be high (ha) to retrieve the rope and try again. Would it be possible for it to get stuck or hung up half way out? Maybe some tests with bad fiddle stick placements?
I can't get over the highline being anchored to one bolt. Why not leave some chains, that equalize to some beefy quicklink?