JBugs - 1969 VW Beetle - Intake Manifold & Carburetor Installation
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- View our complete selection of air-cooled VW parts on the JBugs website: www.jbugs.com/
Follow along as we walk you through how to install a new intake manifold and carburetor for your classic Volkswagen Beetle. Our VW technician will show you everything to look for when you change out your intake manifold or carburetor.
Intro 0:00
Intake Manifold Removal: 1:09
Intake Manifold Installation: 1:42
Carburetor Installation: 2:55
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Tools used in this video:
3/8" Drive Ratchet
3" Extension
6" Extension
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
8mm Wrench
10mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Slip Joint Pliers
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The parts used in this video are:
EMPI Stock Replacement 34PICT-3 Carburetor (98-1289-B)
www.jbugs.com/product/98-1289-...
Chrome Louver Air Cleaner, 5.5" (8674)
www.jbugs.com/product/8674.html
VW Fuel Filter (803201511E)
www.jbugs.com/product/80320151...
VW German Cloth Braided Fuel Hose, 5x2.5mm (N203551)
www.jbugs.com/product/N203551....
VW German Cloth Braided Fuel Hose, 7x2.5mm (N203571)
www.jbugs.com/product/N203571....
Hose Clamps, 8-12mm (MH4)
www.jbugs.com/product/MH4.html
VW Dual Port Intake Manifold (113129701AQ)
www.jbugs.com/product/11312970...
VW Dual Port Intake Manifold Boot (113129729B-BK)
www.jbugs.com/product/11312972...
Metal Intake Manifold Gasket (113129717A)
www.jbugs.com/product/11312971...
VW Intake Manifold to Heat Riser Gasket (113251263)
www.jbugs.com/product/11325126...
Metric 6x1.0mm Nut (N110068)
www.jbugs.com/product/N110068....
Metric 6X15mm Bolt (N1021513)
www.jbugs.com/product/N1021513...
Metric 6mm Flat Washer (N115244)
www.jbugs.com/product/N115244....
Metric 6mm Spring Washer (N122262)
www.jbugs.com/product/N122262....
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Videos are intended for entertainment purposes. Factory specifications should be followed when performing any task on your vehicle. - Авто та транспорт
The flat spot is hard to avoid when using a 34PICT3. I personally don’t like the 009, but we just installed one of our 34PICT3 replacements on a 1971 Super Beetle a few weeks ago and it ran surprisingly well. Either way, I still prefer a vacuum advance.
This car was supposed to get more work but ended up getting sold before we had a chance to go through it to replace the seals.
Thank you so much. You are great and generous enough in sharing to us the idea in how to fix my intake manifold joint gasket.
I was looking for j-bug (an animator) and I found this
For anyone struggling with the removal of the original intake manifold (this video skipped right to intake installation after carb and fuel line removal), I found it best to remove the alternator/fan assembly from the vehicle. Which also meant hood removal. I could not get the clearance I needed otherwise.
This kit definitely makes reassembly and future disassembly a lot easier.
thank you for warning me about that, I only need to do a boot replacement so I think I'll go with the empi split boots as I don't want to deal with the extra mess of disconnecting the manifold!
We replaced the intake manifold specifically because someone had removed the heat riser tubes which meant removing it didn't require removing the generator or alternator. Fortunately, the new manifold has removable heat risers so doing repairs in the future means we won't have that issue in the future either!
👍excellent job.
Would have liked to have seen how you actually managed to pull off the two manifold pieces.
Since the manifold we pulled off didn't have the heat risers in place it was easy, as was installing the new manifold, as the heat riser tubes aren't attached. People seem to be very confused by this but without the heat risers, the manifold is easily pulled out or set back in place, from the left side of the engine, under the generator. With the tubes in place, it is virtually impossible to remove the manifold without removing the generator.
Word of advice, most all custom exhaust systems with a header that has heat risers on it- the holes are not drilled so they don't pass any heat until you get a hole drilled through on each side. The heat comes from the hot gasses passing through the riser pipe from one side to the other. Not from the pipe just getting hot. Unless you run a stock muffler, the header heat systems work minimally at best
Correct white snake, as we showed when we installed a 2 Tip GT-Exhaust here ua-cam.com/video/8hAOjKgsDa4/v-deo.html starting at about 2:39.
When installing those heat riser tubes to the intake manifold, did you put any kind of sealant in there? Or do they just snug in there and stay put?
The tubes fit snuggly so we don't normally run sealant. A high temp RTV could be used if you'd like though.
How do you wire the electric choke and the idle up solenoid ? Do these get a hot wire from the positive side of the coil or where do you hook them to?
Correct, the choke and idle solenoid are both hooked up to the positive side of the coil.
how does one go about removing the nuts from the intake castings? They're all but inaccessible on my 67. Any suggestions? Can't fit a socket wrench on the rear studs and can't seem to get enough of a bite with an open or box end wrench. Also...how does one remove the heat riser tubes so that one can remove the old intake manifold? Mine seem to be rusted in place. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
We often bend wrenches or grind down sockets to make removing and installing the intake manifold nuts easier. The heat riser tubes are built into the intake manifold and are not intended to be removed from it.
im putting in a new intake and carb and the new intake hits the bottom of the generator is there a way to slightly adjust the generator up some
+nathan butler
The generator stand places the generator and fan in the fan shroud which is connected to the cylinder and cooling tin. None of them can be moved, that's why VW's used shims to adjust the belt tension. If your intake manifold is hitting the generator then there is an issue along the intake somewhere. Check that the end castings are in place properly and work from there.
My bug has the same carb and I have vacuum tubes. Y dose yours not and what are the pro and cons for not have or having them. Thanks
+drew0357
Our carburetor does have the vacuum ports but they were capped off as the beetle we installed the carburetor on does not have a vacuum advance distributor or any of the original air cleaner or smog devices that were on the car originally.
I am about to replace my fuel pump and my carb on my 78 super. Have you found the need to add a fuel pressure regulator?
When running an electric fuel pump with a carburetor we definitely recommend running a regulator, yes.
when installing the new manifold with the removable heat riser tubes..does the manifold ends slip into the vw factory head manifolds..video does not ready show this part..thank you
The tubes will fit into the end castings, yes. In some cases too far so we recommend checking the fit before bolting everything up. In some cases the tubes will have to be trimmed down so the center section can be installed.
What about installing an adapter plate for 30/31 carb on pict34 manifold?
Certainly, we sell them here: www.jbugs.com/product/113129031KIT.html
You should have showed the new intake sliding it in place. I cant seem to get mine out at all and ive tried everything. Don't wanna remove the engine, thats last resort.
With either side end casting removed, or if nothing else both removed, there is more than enough room to install the intake manifold. Heck, I've pulled heads off of a car while it was still in the car since I didn't have access to a jack. Wasn't the easiest way, but it is possible!
Those two intake manifold boots, how do I take those off??? Because my are cracked and causing the car not idle
The boots can be cut off to remove them, but to install new factory boots, the intake manifold end castings must be removed from the head like we show in our video ua-cam.com/video/b1P4lIWbGYc/v-deo.html
It appears due to no vacuum advance that is a .009 type distributor. How do you avoid the "flat spot" associated with that 34 PICT 3 / .009 combination?
Why are you running the engine with no engine seal? You are overheating the engine. It would be like taking the radiator out of a liquid-cooled car and connecting the Top and Bottom Radiator hoses together.
shame you fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay, one of the most common fire starters in air cooled beetles
The cause of fires is more commonly worn out fuel lines and no hose clamps. We recommend inspecting the hoses regularly and this is even more important nowadays with ethanol fuel blends. We have run our fuel filters in the engine compartment for decades and haven’t had an engine fire yet
My '74 super beetle has an auto stick trans. I have changed all of the intake gaskets,etc. but it still overheats after about 20-30 miles. Timing, carb, and all else is perfect-- could it be a vacuum leak in the clutch servo or ???. It's a beautiful car with low mileage but I'm just about done with the hassle. Any suggestions?
If the engine is tuned correctly and still over heating we would guess that perhaps some pieces of engine tin are missing, or perhaps the cooling vanes inside the fan shroud or cylinder heads are clogged. We wouldn’t suspect a leaking clutch servo to cause the issue though.
@@JBugsVWParts Tuning is spot on and I removed the cooling tin (and replaced it) to clean the fins but nothing was found. Belt isn't slipping, either---only other thing I could think of was a vacuum leak.
By all means, it is worth checking out if everything else is in order. Typically though a leaking clutch servo would cause issues with shifting, not overheating.
@@JBugsVWParts Thank you for the help. i guess I'll go through it ONE MORE TIME before I sell the old girl!
@@garyk112 ...so any update on this issue? I'm interested
I have never seen metric used on anything this old lol
Metric bolts have been used worldwide for over a century.
Sam Mebane I didn’t know that I thought metric didn’t come out till the 1980s because before this video I have never seen metric on anything older than 1986 for me it’s always been SAE
@@blakewaddell451 I believe you're reffering to American cars. Germany is a Metric country....so all their cars have been Metric.
so I just notice on my singal port 1600cc my carb an manifold are sweating why is that is it freezing? an is it bad?
+JohnnyBoy Biggz
The intake manifold can "freeze" up, much in the same way a can of spray paint gets cold when you continue to use it for a long period of time. The fuel and air moving through the intake manifold can start to create condensation and can eventually freeze up. That is why there are heat risers connecting from the intake manifold to the exhaust. The hot exhaust gases running through the tubes to the manifold prevent the manifold from icing up.
What do you guys recommend me to do? Do a have it clogged?
+JohnnyBoy Biggz
We can not see whether or not you do have heat risers. If you do, we have no way of diagnosing the problem not being there. If you have the heat risers, they may be clogged or the ports on the exhaust may not be drilled as we show needs to be done in our exhaust video. Watch closely through our exhaust video www.jbugs.com/product/Video-Exhaust.html?Category_Code=JBUGS-Videos to see what we're referring to.
Ok I have the stock exhaust which has heater boxes on my 68 an I do have heat risers I will be installing a stinger soon.
So do I need to buy a new manifold?