Another great way to check for vacuum leaks is to use a propane torch unlit but turned on and move the nozzle close to all the gaskets and fittings listening for the engine to speed up. Not messy either!
I put new carburetor and air filter on my 1966 ghia. I had to add a spacer under the carburetor because it was hitting the generator. It sputters when the engine heats up. It takes a while. Choke is open. I notice that spacer under the carburetor is cold to the touch and has a little condensation. What are some good recommended fixes?
I just spent 4 days trying to solve a bog and dead spot under load. Focussed on timing first. Then a few days cleaning carbs, jets, setting accelerator pump, etc., back to timing. Nothing helped that much. The problem ended up being the point gap. I checked the points last. It was a bit too wide. I set it to 0.016” and problem solved. Advise: Check the east things before you start ripping apart your carbs. Lol.
Chris Vallone I was stubborn and tried to make a 34pict carb + empi 009 work at the end and after trying 3 different carbs ( all 34 pict) I gave up, recently put dual Kadrons and I score a Bosch 009 for free 😊 now my 1776 motor runs like a champ!!! All your videos are really helpful but us humans learn from trial and error, Lol
Cool! Get it road worthy and have fun driving it. My first car was a '72 Super. It was a fun car. I don't really like supers but I had great memories with that car. I now drive a '64 bug.
It’s the perfect combo of carb and distributor. I’ve seen so many 009 distributors in various carb/engine combinations and they never run right. The 009 was designed to run flat out for things like farm equipment.
@@docscout Yes. Everyone wants the performance. I removed an H-30/31 and a V-06 dist. That came with the car. Good pick up, but no load sensing. Hard starting when hot and a stumble off idle. What I have now, is a perfect choke, idle and top speed of 72 mph and 30 mpg. ( Factoy spec. ) What it was... 74 mph and 25 mpg. 1964 sunroof bug. Cheers!
Restoring a 1303s 1973 . . Flat spot of course. Timing perfect, plugs good color near new EMPI distributor . . Resolved by changing main jet from 130 to 137,5. Thanks for your channel. Much appreciated.
You hit the nail on the head wit h your Number 1 discussion point--having the correct combination of Distributor and Carburetor. Just because something will fit into the space means nothing! Engineers went to a LOT of trouble to pair these two items which we commonly seem bent to tinker with! Thanks, Chris! jay
Regarding item #4: I believe that the 'spring' you are talking about in the choke housing is actually a bimetallic material that expands and contracts with temperature changes. That expansion/contraction causes the coil to open when heated and close when cold- this latter action closes the throttle to restrict the air though the venturi which speeds up the air, causing enrichment of the mixture. The idle speed is also increased by setting the fast idle cam. One pump of the accelerator sets the fast idle cam, activates the choke system while giving one shot of fuel to help prime the engine.
Also a plugged heat riser will cause the engine to stumble. this requires the intake manifold be removed and the carbon be cleaned out of the heat riser tube. Several methods are available but what i used to do was to poke a stiff wire into it to get a hole going. load it with oxygen gas, then light it off. this burns all the carbon out and allows proper heating of the tube to vaporize the fuel. Additionally, if someone has removed the cooling fins and thermostat from the car, it runs far too cool and will hesitate also. one other thing to mention, is that the 34 PICT-3 carburetor carried a 127.5 main metering jet. The carb has a 26 mm throat. It may be possible that putting a larger jet, such as a 130 or 132 will cure the trouble. The smaller jets were used for smog control. I hope this helps
🇨🇦 been working on VW for many years, but sometimes you just need some reminders. Thanks for getting right to the point no pun intended. I opened up my 27.5 main jet and made sure my Excelerator pump faucet had a good stream, and all my boogie-woogie came back, so thanks PS I am running a Venturi vacuum distributor. I also remove my electronic ignition and installed a good set of points and the needle on my vacuum gauge is much more steady, go figure.👍
Thanks for your great video. I have a 1600 dual port in a beach buggy in u.k. I have electronic ignition with a cheap Chinese carb off e bay. Today we took it off and adjusted the accelerator pump to come in earlier (right hand side against alternator) it's completely solved the hesitation problem. So hope that helps. Jon.
Great Video Chris.. I just purchased a 58 Beetle.. it was running great, until a week ago, i noticed it began to shut off on me as i approached a stop... it could be anything that you mentioned in this Video.. Thank you again. I'm always learning something new from all your Videos.. Awesome 👌
Hi rob i have many people over here in Australia they all buy cheap Chinese 009,s I have found on this combo even good quality 009 dist . I have regraded them and I have no problem. It is a old method but if you have someone who can do it properly it works great . Even with all Chinese or cheap 34 pict 3 carb and 009 dizzy takes all the problems away . Done this for many yrs now
Great vid! The condensor once caused me problems. Replacing everything... Spark plugs, cables, rotor, rotor cap, contact point... It was the piece of 10€. 😬
Great video, but as an owner of a ghia and not a mechanic at all, it reminds me that I saw a video a few years ago about putting a Subaru engine in one....and it makes me wanna look up how much that would cost. These little engines are very cool creations and I love the sound of them running, but I’m starting to think it takes a mechanic to own one and not be constantly frustrated and disappointed by the car. (Obviously mine has been pissing me off lately - 🙄)
Accelerator pump tube : the spray of gas from the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted such that as the throttle plate opens that spray shoots between the wall of the carburator and the opening throttle plate. The brass tube will rotate to facilitate that adjustment. After adjusting make sure to reseat the base of the tube into the carb body by pushing it down.
This is by far one of THE most overlooked items with these carbs. People cycle through carbs all because rebuilders don't really understand how the carb works. Getting that spray to fan-out as it hits the edge of the throttle plate just as it cracks from the venturi wall makes for an excellent throttle response. You are right on!!
I used an .009 distributor with a 34 pic 3 carburetor on my 1974 Beetle 1600cc engine. Had the flat spot when accelerating, so I advanced my timing from 7 1/2 degrees before TDC to 9 degrees before TDC and it runs smooth and doesn’t run hot. I always stay below 10 degrees before TDC when timing my bug and have good results.
a split boot on your intake can also mimic the actions of a bad carb. while its running, spray your boots with starting fluid. If you get a rise in rpm, you found the leak
I run 94 octane and a secret additive. I run it at high rpm on the highway for 5 min. When i get back i rev the engine and quickly put my hand over the carb throat to choke it out 5 or 6 times.
I drive my bug regularly and have had to clean jets and even change jet sizes depending on where I buy fuel. The bug does not like cheaper fuel with higher ethanol levels. So, I've tried to be more consistent on where I fill up with quality fuel. Ignition timing is pretty critical also in keeping the bug running and accelerating smoothly.
Great info! Thanks Chris! Some oil baths have pre-heat to help warm up the carb faster. Finding an original oil bath air cleaner is a good idea. The other thing I can think of is that some setups have a fuel pressure regulator. If set incorrectly could cause hesitation, stall, etc.
2 most common problems in most high mileage carbs especially VW Solex: Throttle shaft hole worn so vacuum leak there and always slop in accelerator pump linkage. The accelerator pump should squirt the instant the throttle is opened. Usually it is so worn that the throttle is already opened 1/8 inch before the slop in the linkage is taken up and it actually squirts. Some have 2 cotter pin holes in the end of the rod that pulls the pump linkage, move the pin to the hole closest to the throttle shaft. Whatever it takes to remove and repair wear.
I found that the little brass accelerator pump tube that squirts gas down the throat of the carb. might be loose. I usually tap it down to make sure it is seated. One time I overhauled an engine and when started the engine started to hammer. I found that brass tube inside the engine being hammered by a piston. No harm done but had to dismantle part of the engine. I did not work on that carb. during the overhaul. Best advise is to always tap that tube down and see if it rotates too easy on any type of service you do.
Hi, Chris thanks for putting this info out there for all of us! I have a VW Beetle 1968 and it idles perfectly but sputters when I accelerate. It runs smooth right off the bat, warmed up or cold, when it's idling, it doesn't sputter or anything, It's only when i try to drive it when it starts acting up on me. Thanks in advance!
An engine under load needs a different amount of ignition advance and air/fuel ratio to idle. What I recommend is that you tune your carb using a vacuum gauge. Using a tee piece pop it onto the vacuum hose between the distributor vac. Can and the carb. Use it on a fully warmed up motor after a drive. Then you simply adjust the carb mix screw so that the gauge reads the highest vaccum level, that's in the minus number, in other words so the engine sucks the strongest, this gives the most efficient power your engine can make.
Always verify that there are no air/vacuum leaks at the end casting where they meet the head and check the intake where the carb bolts too intake,9 out of 10 times that mounting surface is not level
Hi Chris, my 65 has been sitting for about a year. A small amount of gas is in the tank I belive and i need a new battery. Anything at all I should do BEFORE I start it up to prevent damage?
I don't have a VW, but I do know that the float on a freshly rebuilt carb that somebody else rebuilt might be too low or too high. If too low, you will have a lean spot as you start accelerating. If too high, it will be over rich both early through the range and at heavy throttle. Check your float for proper adjustment BEFORE installing the carb.
Workin on a 16tl. Dual silex on a trike. Bad backfires thru exhaust. Valves are set around.011, it seems the linkages are uneven due to the twist on carb linkage throw at different angles. So when at idle all sinchrod but pikin up rpms one opens more. Done timing switched coils cap wires you name it....this seems to be it. Carbs are clean . I don't know what is the tiny brass screw at top . Behind the acc. p ump tubes
I need some suggestions, my 74 VW Beetle sat for about 3 years, long story....... But anyway, it wouldn't run so I replaced the Gas Tank which was rusted and also float. Replaced the fuel lines, filters including the Carb. and fuel pump. It still has a rough time running smooth. Whenever it was parked I had just replaced the gas tank, plugs, wires and adjusted the valves and was running better then ever. Anything you might suggest....... Thanks.
I have a VW Type 3 & I’m pretty sure it’s hard to start from being a cheapskate & filling her up with fuel that’s 1/3 E10. I’ve been told to buy a pair of Brazilian carbies, complete with their fuel lines & filters etc, from the 90’s, as they’re E85 compatible.
Good stuff! Had a serious vacuum leak. Previous owner did not lock tile screws in offset plate and was really loose. Got it tightened up but I think a rebuild is in order.
So - I understand the potential gas leak hazard, but why no fuel filter in the engine compartment? I always had one there - far to the left of the distributor and coil towards #3 & 4 side - where I can see if it's dirty, replace it easily when needed, and where it's away from any electrical components. I ALWAYS use the factory type fuel hose, though. The stuff most auto part stores sell is close - but NOT correct in size. When I tried some - it was tough to get onto the filter and DID leak - so I stuck hose clamps on it, which had to be tightened so much to stop the leak that it constricted the plastic tube on the ejection side of the filter which gave me mixture issues. I'd had idle issues, mainly dying at idle, so tried looking at fuel system first and found this filter restriction. Went to stock German rubber/ cloth sheathed gas hose, installed a new filter, adjusted the carb (with it on the car) the way Chris recommended (mixture & idle both in all the way, 10 half turns out on mixture, 5 half turns out on idle, fine tune it after w engine running.) After that & tune up - the 1600 installed in my 64 Bug runs better than ever.
my generator light has been coming on the whole time I run the engine, its not running the battery down but I hate driving it because of this. There isnt anyone in my town that fixes air cooled engines so I have to ask you.
you need to get a voltmeter and check if your generator is putting out, and also check the regulator. Are you near the NY area? My shop can look at it.
How about some EFI beetle videos. Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection vs carb and what alternatives. The pros and cons. I have a 77 with Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.
Also check for manifold heat, which could be low due to clogged heat risers. Anything other than original exhaust system will not force enough exhaust gas into the risers to warm the fuel a stock engine would consume. Add a header and now there’s more potential fuel and less potential heat. Manifold less than 105* F means fuel can stick to it rather than be used and thus lean hesitation with big gulps of air/fuel (off idle throttle hits). Even with short runner dual carbs it’s an issue. I’ve added ceramic heaters to mine and some 70+ amps of current to heat the manifolds. The heaters and epoxy also insulate so they’re not always on. It’s a solution and makes good power but wow a stock setup would be so much easier lol
Chris Vallone hi... I had it replaced already:) I just thought I’d throw that comment in... it was weird. It just bogged out and stalled, it lost all power like it was getting to much gas or air😕 Thanks for all your videos. Hey can you post a video on how to install a bamboo tray under the dash with out drilling into the frame/vw, Please!
This is actuslly extremely helpful to me. I bought a 69 bug just weeks ago and I've been having these challenges. Hopefully I can get this done all through and through
I would add on the vacuum leak to check the throttle plate cross linkage which those brass bushings fittings wear away and creates vacuum leaks almost non-detectable. Our friend in Oregon replaces these bushings at a fair price.... Andy L.
Have issues trying to perform static timing I have done you did on your video except that as soon I connect the light test lights come on I turn the distributor and the light doesn’t go off
I have a kit car with a 1600. It stumbles at lower RPMs under load. Another symptom is the tach bounces quite a bit. Could I have a ground issue that would cause both? Any other thoughts? Engine has roughly 35 hours on it.
Hi - I have a FI to carb conversion (empi 34 carb). Heat risers were not installed. Bought it like that. I will replace the FI exhaust in order to add those heat risers shortly. Can that be a reason of engine hesitation (carb icing) on higher speed? It happens every couple of minutes, mainly > 50 mph... Great videos BTW, this will help a lot! Very clear and easy to understand
I imagine some people also try to put jets that are too big, thinking it will be faster. That might be true on the big end, but it would almost certainly sputter a bit in the lower revs (before it can get enough air to make the fuel-air mix right).
I once put a new gas tank in my Beetle without cleaning it out first. Big mistake! It clogged the carb and the car would barely run. A mechanic had to remove the tank, clean with solvent, blow out the fuel line, take apart and rebuild the carb. Then it ran fine. Beware of “cheap” parts that lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs.
Thank you for this video. I have a VW trike with a 1600 dual port and it had the .009 distributor. I just changed it and did the timing and it does appear to run better although I haven't had a chance to ride it yet.
When everything else is correct, stock jetting, clean carb, SVDA dizzy, timing correct, carb settings nice, and it's still giving you fits... look at clogged heat risers. And you need that extra heat to the air cleaner off the sled... even if your ATS (air temp sensor) is dead or deleted. You NEED that 3rd heating hose to the breather. You can get away with a bad ATS, but you can't get away with clogged heat risers, and no sled heat to the breather.
I have a ‘72 super beetle. Had carburetor issues and finally bought a new carb and replaced generator with alternator. Worked fine for a while but now it will not idle after it gets warmed up. Cold idles. Car sits a lot. Not driven much at all because afraid it want make it home. Why does it idle fine when cold but not when warm?
I replaced my fuel pump and ever since Iv'e had hesitation issues. I read that the fuel pumping out of the new pump might be overwhelming the carb. i also read that grinding down the rod that drives the pump will relieve this. I will check the accelerator pump and dual jets next. This is a 69 motor in my 65 bug. 1500 cc. Thank you for the info Chris.
Yes, it is sadly not uncommon for a new aftermarket fuel pump which might be producing too much fuel pressure to your carburetor. VW throughout the years and models specified both the minimum and maximum fuel pressure that a fuel pump should put out (it will vary depending on the engine size, year and carb type). Generally speaking, you should have at least 1.8 or so PSI at Idle (about 850 to 1,000 rpm, and a maximum of about 2.8 to 3 PSI at 3,00 PSI). Do NOT grind down your metal fuel pump rod yet, because some adjustment of the pressure can be made simply by either removing or adding more or less paper fuel pump gaskets (but there must ALWAYS be at least one paper gasket both above and below the red-ish/brown-ish plastic "intermediate flange" base between the crankcase and fuel pump!). When/if you have the pump off, measure the exact length of that metal fuel pump rod in millimeters (there are at least two different types/lengths). Do some further research to find out exactly what your engine needs to run smoothly... I won't use an aftermarket fuel pump or carburetor! I only rebuild (or have rebuilt for me) original equipment Pierburg brand fuel pumps and original Solex brand carburetors. The aftermarket stuff is too troublesome, basically rubbish in terms of quality and reliability. Bill B
My husband just bought me a 69 VW ,it's been sitting for a few years but he's a mechanic had it running rough right after he got it here. Wondering why the brakes look good but aren't working very well?
I can't quite get this straight. Are 30, 36, and 40 horse motors all 1200 cc? What about the 1300, 1500, and 1600 cc motors (66 and later)? Are 25 horse motors 1000 cc? Were multiple motors available on a bug for some years? Link for a timeline of when which motors were available would be nice. You've been a huge inspiration and I've got a 65' in the garage that I'm now daily driving :) Thanks!
Your best bet for this information is the technical section at www.thesamba.com. 1300cc motors are 50hp, 1500cc was 53hp, and 1600cc are 60hp. In the US Beetles of a given year pretty much all came with the same engine, but in other parts of the world you could buy different models with different engines. For example in 1968 US Beetles came with 1500cc engines, while in Europe you could buy a VW 1200, a VW 1300, or a VW 1500. Aside from the obvious differences in engine size these models were also quite different regarding included amenities.
Well, I guess to keep it easy, the 30 and 36 hp are 1192cc, the 40hp I believe they just went to 1200cc. The 1300cc, 1500cc, and 1600cc were all different HP. Check this out www.jbugs.com/VW-Tech-Article-Engine-Letter-Codes.html
@@jaredkomoroski the 40 is 1192cc, but the block is unique. 61 through 65 virtually unchanged except for heater design. 66 a new block started. VW was trying to keep up with the Datsuns and Toyota's. My '73 1600cc datsun had 90 hp. VW was never gunna compete. Cheers!
I often have a problem that when the engine is warmed up and I turn it off, fuel immediately starts leaking through the emulsion tubes into the throat (barrels). It is then very difficult to start the engine. I always have trouble starting a hot engine. I lowered the float level but then I have a big hole during fast acceleration. It doesn't want to accelerate when I press the gas pedal harder. Fuel pressure ok.
Hi chris do you know why 2 same side 2 cylinders are not firing they were working but suddenly died changed sparks , leads,points, rotor ,cap new coil, still not firing just 1,2, are working
sorry for late reply the firing order is correct 1432 there is no spark on 3/4 1/2 are fine but misfiring i think the coil is weak thinking of replacing it and distributor would it help in bringing the car back to life
It's probably an air leak at the intake manifold. But - are the plugs tight? Realize they're a cork for an explosion that occurs thousands of times per minute. 25 pounds. Ignore the 18 pound value from the factory.
Good video, but your top 7 only covers early engines. Once we get to the dual port manifolds we have those rubber boots on the intake that are always cracked due to age. Heck, I saw some leaking 40 years ago so I can only imagine how dry rotted they are now!
I have a 70s beetle kit car I was running down the road at about 65 when it stalled out I filled gas tank and charged battery but it will not start. Only thing I changed was I removed a solenoid for the gauges because it was killing my battery any help I know very little about beetles
Hey Chris, I'm going to throw a Pertronix III conversion into a stock german vacuum advance distributor. I have proper wires and low resistance coil coming as well. What plug do you recommend with electronic distributor? Ones with 10K resistance or no resistance? Thanks! Love your channel!
hello im facing a problem with my 1974 super beetle. It does start up in the morning but when once i drive and stop somewhere for a while (i switched of the engine) , i cant seem to get the engine running unless i wait for a few minutes and sometimes it takes pretty long.
Do u have a video on “upgrading from points to petronix”….im with about not dealing with adjusting points, one less thing to worry about. Fyi i have a 72 ghia, 1600 dual port. Any suggestion on brands of necesary items that inwould need; much appreciate!🙏🏻🙏🏻
Ok I have a 1679cc thick wall cyclenders with a Weber progressive carb and 009 distribution. I e changed the jets and have a electronic ignition. It was running great till a few days ago and somehow got out of time. I’ve worked on it for days but long story short I changed the rotor n cap and runs better and staying in time but now I still have a lil hesitation as I’m throttling up and going they the gears. Never had it before so any idea I would appreciate.
Hi Chris, question for you. My 1970 bug starts great, idles well after warm and drives well. However, after I run an errand or go for a cruise, the bug won't idle high enough after restarting without feathering the throttle. Any ideas? Thanks!
Another great way to check for vacuum leaks is to use a propane torch unlit but turned on and move the nozzle close to all the gaskets and fittings listening for the engine to speed up. Not messy either!
That green beetle behind you is a Beauty.
Yes my friend Joe's 54 Oval Rag.
1. Carburetor / Distributor Combination 1:02
2. Accelerator Pump 2:29
3. Side Jet(s) 3:47
4. Automatic Choke 4:47
5. Junk Within Jets 6:46
6. Vacuum Leak 8:49
7. Electrical Components 10:09
I put new carburetor and air filter on my 1966 ghia. I had to add a spacer under the carburetor because it was hitting the generator. It sputters when the engine heats up. It takes a while. Choke is open. I notice that spacer under the carburetor is cold to the touch and has a little condensation. What are some good recommended fixes?
In this video, we look at the top 7 seasons why your Vintage Classic VW Beetle Bug will hesitate. stall, choke, on acceleration.
I just spent 4 days trying to solve a bog and dead spot under load. Focussed on timing first. Then a few days cleaning carbs, jets, setting accelerator pump, etc., back to timing. Nothing helped that much. The problem ended up being the point gap. I checked the points last. It was a bit too wide. I set it to 0.016” and problem solved.
Advise: Check the east things before you start ripping apart your carbs. Lol.
Chris Vallone I was stubborn and tried to make a 34pict carb + empi 009 work at the end and after trying 3 different carbs ( all 34 pict) I gave up, recently put dual Kadrons and I score a Bosch 009 for free 😊 now my 1776 motor runs like a champ!!! All your videos are really helpful but us humans learn from trial and error, Lol
Many times that is the best way.
My Old Boss gave me his 1974 super beetle... I have no idea why I am doing, these videos are tremendous. Thank you
Cool! Get it road worthy and have fun driving it. My first car was a '72 Super. It was a fun car. I don't really like supers but I had great memories with that car. I now drive a '64 bug.
Really lov'n the way my 40 runs with a restored 28 PICT-1 and a restored R-5 big cap dizzy. Smooth as silk. Just like when new. Good vid!
It’s the perfect combo of carb and distributor. I’ve seen so many 009 distributors in various carb/engine combinations and they never run right. The 009 was designed to run flat out for things like farm equipment.
@@docscout Yes. Everyone wants the performance. I removed an H-30/31 and a V-06 dist. That came with the car. Good pick up, but no load sensing. Hard starting when hot and a stumble off idle. What I have now, is a perfect choke, idle and top speed of 72 mph and 30 mpg. ( Factoy spec. ) What it was... 74 mph and 25 mpg. 1964 sunroof bug. Cheers!
Restoring a 1303s 1973 . . Flat spot of course. Timing perfect, plugs good color near new EMPI distributor . . Resolved by changing main jet from 130 to 137,5. Thanks for your channel. Much appreciated.
You hit the nail on the head wit h your Number 1 discussion point--having the correct combination of Distributor and Carburetor. Just because something will fit into the space means nothing! Engineers went to a LOT of trouble to pair these two items which we commonly seem bent to tinker with! Thanks, Chris! jay
You bet Jay, thanks for the comment.
The Tamiya Monster Beetle is a RC car from my youth and I still want one in my 50's now
Regarding item #4: I believe that the 'spring' you are talking about in the choke housing is actually a bimetallic material that expands and contracts with temperature changes. That expansion/contraction causes the coil to open when heated and close when cold- this latter action closes the throttle to restrict the air though the venturi which speeds up the air, causing enrichment of the mixture. The idle speed is also increased by setting the fast idle cam. One pump of the accelerator sets the fast idle cam, activates the choke system while giving one shot of fuel to help prime the engine.
My carb manual refer to it a 'bi-metallic spring'.
Also a plugged heat riser will cause the engine to stumble. this requires the intake manifold be removed and the carbon be cleaned out of the heat riser tube. Several methods are available but what i used to do was to poke a stiff wire into it to get a hole going. load it with oxygen gas, then light it off. this burns all the carbon out and allows proper heating of the tube to vaporize the fuel. Additionally, if someone has removed the cooling fins and thermostat from the car, it runs far too cool and will hesitate also. one other thing to mention, is that the 34 PICT-3 carburetor carried a 127.5 main metering jet. The carb has a 26 mm throat. It may be possible that putting a larger jet, such as a 130 or 132 will cure the trouble. The smaller jets were used for smog control. I hope this helps
What is smog? 😅
🇨🇦 been working on VW for many years, but sometimes you just need some reminders. Thanks for getting right to the point no pun intended. I opened up my 27.5 main jet and made sure my Excelerator pump faucet had a good stream, and all my boogie-woogie came back, so thanks PS I
am running a Venturi vacuum distributor. I also remove my electronic ignition and installed a good set of points and the needle on my vacuum gauge is much more steady, go figure.👍
Thanks for your great video. I have a 1600 dual port in a beach buggy in u.k. I have electronic ignition with a cheap Chinese carb off e bay. Today we took it off and adjusted the accelerator pump to come in earlier (right hand side against alternator) it's completely solved the hesitation problem. So hope that helps. Jon.
Alot of people miss that on a carb, the adjustment of the carb accelerator pump is very important for a nice crisp throttle response 👍
Great Video Chris.. I just purchased a 58 Beetle.. it was running great, until a week ago, i noticed it began to shut off on me as i approached a stop... it could be anything that you mentioned in this Video.. Thank you again. I'm always learning something new from all your Videos.. Awesome 👌
Hi rob i have many people over here in Australia they all buy cheap Chinese 009,s I have found on this combo even good quality 009 dist . I have regraded them and I have no problem. It is a old method but if you have someone who can do it properly it works great . Even with all Chinese or cheap 34 pict 3 carb and 009 dizzy takes all the problems away . Done this for many yrs now
Chris I wish you could come to my driveway and tilt a beer together with me while looking over my 74 beetle. Thanks for all you do!
Gainesville Fl
@@dang.2574 haha that would be cool. I'm in Palm Beach gardens
Great vid! The condensor once caused me problems. Replacing everything... Spark plugs, cables, rotor, rotor cap, contact point... It was the piece of 10€. 😬
If your contacts are blue and they became blue very fast it is condensor problem.
Great video, but as an owner of a ghia and not a mechanic at all, it reminds me that I saw a video a few years ago about putting a Subaru engine in one....and it makes me wanna look up how much that would cost. These little engines are very cool creations and I love the sound of them running, but I’m starting to think it takes a mechanic to own one and not be constantly frustrated and disappointed by the car. (Obviously mine has been pissing me off lately - 🙄)
Just wanted to say thanks for the video! A lot a good information here! I always get something out of your vids. Thank you
thank you for watching.
Accelerator pump tube : the spray of gas from the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted such that as the throttle plate opens that spray shoots between the wall of the carburator and the opening throttle plate. The brass tube will rotate to facilitate that adjustment. After adjusting make sure to reseat the base of the tube into the carb body by pushing it down.
This is by far one of THE most overlooked items with these carbs. People cycle through carbs all because rebuilders don't really understand how the carb works. Getting that spray to fan-out as it hits the edge of the throttle plate just as it cracks from the venturi wall makes for an excellent throttle response. You are right on!!
Pushing the nozzle down FIRMLY. I recommend removing the top plate of the carb to BE SURE it's pressed down FULLY. Ask my how I know this.
Thank you! I've been watching your videos for years always helpful
thank you!
I used an .009 distributor with a 34 pic 3 carburetor on my 1974 Beetle 1600cc engine. Had the flat spot when accelerating, so I advanced my timing from 7 1/2 degrees before TDC to 9 degrees before TDC and it runs smooth and doesn’t run hot. I always stay below 10 degrees before TDC when timing my bug and have good results.
a split boot on your intake can also mimic the actions of a bad carb. while its running, spray your boots with starting fluid. If you get a rise in rpm, you found the leak
I run 94 octane and a secret additive. I run it at high rpm on the highway for 5 min. When i get back i rev the engine and quickly put my hand over the carb throat to choke it out 5 or 6 times.
I drive my bug regularly and have had to clean jets and even change jet sizes depending on where I buy fuel. The bug does not like cheaper fuel with higher ethanol levels. So, I've tried to be more consistent on where I fill up with quality fuel. Ignition timing is pretty critical also in keeping the bug running and accelerating smoothly.
Great video! One of the best on things to think about when things just aren't right.
Great info! Thanks Chris! Some oil baths have pre-heat to help warm up the carb faster. Finding an original oil bath air cleaner is a good idea. The other thing I can think of is that some setups have a fuel pressure regulator. If set incorrectly could cause hesitation, stall, etc.
Chris Vallone is Cool!
Great vid. Also, don’t forget the O rings on the mix screw, idle jet and air mix jut.👍🏾🛠🇬🇧
good tips for a noob thanks mate got a tricky 72 3 months in
I have run 34 pict 3 and all types of 009 dizzy. I have had the best success with 34s &009 non vacuum.
Thank you for your videos they have helped me so much with my 68 convertible
Great informative video as usual.
Thank a lot Chris from Melbourne, Australia
you are welcome!
2 most common problems in most high mileage carbs especially VW Solex: Throttle shaft hole worn so vacuum leak there and always slop in accelerator pump linkage. The accelerator pump should squirt the instant the throttle is opened. Usually it is so worn that the throttle is already opened 1/8 inch before the slop in the linkage is taken up and it actually squirts. Some have 2 cotter pin holes in the end of the rod that pulls the pump linkage, move the pin to the hole closest to the throttle shaft. Whatever it takes to remove and repair wear.
I found that the little brass accelerator pump tube that squirts gas down the throat of the carb. might be loose. I usually tap it down to make sure it is seated. One time I overhauled an engine and when started the engine started to hammer. I found that brass tube inside the engine being hammered by a piston. No harm done but had to dismantle part of the engine. I did not work on that carb. during the overhaul. Best advise is to always tap that tube down and see if it rotates too easy on any type of service you do.
I had the same thing happened to me so I’m a little paranoid now I wiring a tether to the spout
Hi, Chris thanks for putting this info out there for all of us! I have a VW Beetle 1968 and it idles perfectly but sputters when I accelerate. It runs smooth right off the bat, warmed up or cold, when it's idling, it doesn't sputter or anything, It's only when i try to drive it when it starts acting up on me. Thanks in advance!
An engine under load needs a different amount of ignition advance and air/fuel ratio to idle.
What I recommend is that you tune your carb using a vacuum gauge.
Using a tee piece pop it onto the vacuum hose between the distributor vac. Can and the carb.
Use it on a fully warmed up motor after a drive. Then you simply adjust the carb mix screw so that the gauge reads the highest vaccum level, that's in the minus number, in other words so the engine sucks the strongest, this gives the most efficient power your engine can make.
i was wondering if you resolved this problem? i have the same issue,THanks
very well simply explained and thank you .. dead spot in 2nd sorted
If the VW is not running smooth, or not even starting, it all boils down to two reasons... it's not getting fuel, or it is not getting spark.
Or compression ;)
Or it's getting to much fuel. That plastic leveler could be too low.
That’s so funny I’m new to this and those two things have always been the root to my problems so far so good
What about air ?
For people with common sense this is great advice thanks!
Chris, can a dodgy vacuum advance seem like fuel starvation? I am looking at a bug with fuel starvation issues
hello, and thank you for your tips.
thank you for coming by the channel.
Good information shared here 👍
Always verify that there are no air/vacuum leaks at the end casting where they meet the head and check the intake where the carb bolts too intake,9 out of 10 times that mounting surface is not level
Also with the 34pict3 and 009 dizzy combo, blocking off the hole in the lower butterfly plate will help with that flat spot.
Thanks.....tip number one is my obvious problem.
Hi Chris, my 65 has been sitting for about a year. A small amount of gas is in the tank I belive and i need a new battery. Anything at all I should do BEFORE I start it up to prevent damage?
Inspect that tank, dump the gas. Check oil of course. A year is not too long so... Go thru tune up motions too.
I don't have a VW, but I do know that the float on a freshly rebuilt carb that somebody else rebuilt might be too low or too high. If too low, you will have a lean spot as you start accelerating. If too high, it will be over rich both early through the range and at heavy throttle. Check your float for proper adjustment BEFORE installing the carb.
Workin on a 16tl. Dual silex on a trike. Bad backfires thru exhaust. Valves are set around.011, it seems the linkages are uneven due to the twist on carb linkage throw at different angles. So when at idle all sinchrod but pikin up rpms one opens more. Done timing switched coils cap wires you name it....this seems to be it. Carbs are clean . I don't know what is the tiny brass screw at top . Behind the acc. p ump tubes
I don't know if thiswas covered in the comments but another place to check is for a worn throttle shaft. I have run into this a few times
I need some suggestions, my 74 VW Beetle sat for about 3 years, long story....... But anyway, it wouldn't run so I replaced the Gas Tank which was rusted and also float. Replaced the fuel lines, filters including the Carb. and fuel pump. It still has a rough time running smooth. Whenever it was parked I had just replaced the gas tank, plugs, wires and adjusted the valves and was running better then ever. Anything you might suggest....... Thanks.
I would take that carb off and open it up and do a cleaning.
I have a VW Type 3 & I’m pretty sure it’s hard to start from being a cheapskate & filling her up with fuel that’s 1/3 E10. I’ve been told to buy a pair of Brazilian carbies, complete with their fuel lines & filters etc, from the 90’s, as they’re E85 compatible.
Hey
Chris,
Do you happen to have a video on how to replace a 1970 vw bug hood latch and cable?
I do not yet, sorry.
Good stuff! Had a serious vacuum leak. Previous owner did not lock tile screws in offset plate and was really loose. Got it tightened up but I think a rebuild is in order.
Very informative
So - I understand the potential gas leak hazard, but why no fuel filter in the engine compartment? I always had one there - far to the left of the distributor and coil towards #3 & 4 side - where I can see if it's dirty, replace it easily when needed, and where it's away from any electrical components.
I ALWAYS use the factory type fuel hose, though. The stuff most auto part stores sell is close - but NOT correct in size. When I tried some - it was tough to get onto the filter and DID leak - so I stuck hose clamps on it, which had to be tightened so much to stop the leak that it constricted the plastic tube on the ejection side of the filter which gave me mixture issues. I'd had idle issues, mainly dying at idle, so tried looking at fuel system first and found this filter restriction.
Went to stock German rubber/ cloth sheathed gas hose, installed a new filter, adjusted the carb (with it on the car) the way Chris recommended (mixture & idle both in all the way, 10 half turns out on mixture, 5 half turns out on idle, fine tune it after w engine running.) After that & tune up - the 1600 installed in my 64 Bug runs better than ever.
so true!
Awesome video, thanks for all the knowledge you share with us. It's greatly appreciated!😎🤙
You bet! Thank you.
my generator light has been coming on the whole time I run the engine, its not running the battery down but I hate driving it because of this. There isnt anyone in my town that fixes air cooled engines so I have to ask you.
you need to get a voltmeter and check if your generator is putting out, and also check the regulator. Are you near the NY area? My shop can look at it.
No I am in Ohio, bummer@@classicvwbugs
@@wingsonmyback1 people ship me cars from all over the USA. We could arrange it if need be.
What if I just bought a new generator. if the generator was not draining my battery what would you suggest I do then?@@classicvwbugs
How about some EFI beetle videos. Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection vs carb and what alternatives. The pros and cons. I have a 77 with Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.
I never work on fuel injected really.
Also check for manifold heat, which could be low due to clogged heat risers. Anything other than original exhaust system will not force enough exhaust gas into the risers to warm the fuel a stock engine would consume.
Add a header and now there’s more potential fuel and less potential heat.
Manifold less than 105* F means fuel can stick to it rather than be used and thus lean hesitation with big gulps of air/fuel (off idle throttle hits).
Even with short runner dual carbs it’s an issue. I’ve added ceramic heaters to mine and some 70+ amps of current to heat the manifolds. The heaters and epoxy also insulate so they’re not always on. It’s a solution and makes good power but wow a stock setup would be so much easier lol
Chris Vallone - my 66’ bogged out a few times and I found a hole in the intake manifold. Would a new manifold fix this issue?
Where on the manifold?
Chris Vallone hi... I had it replaced already:) I just thought I’d throw that comment in... it was weird. It just bogged out and stalled, it lost all power like it was getting to much gas or air😕 Thanks for all your videos. Hey can you post a video on how to install a bamboo tray under the dash with out drilling into the frame/vw, Please!
Good video 👍
This is actuslly extremely helpful to me. I bought a 69 bug just weeks ago and I've been having these challenges. Hopefully I can get this done all through and through
I would add on the vacuum leak to check the throttle plate cross linkage which those brass bushings fittings wear away and creates vacuum leaks almost non-detectable. Our friend in Oregon replaces these bushings at a fair price.... Andy L.
Any electrical info about ... when there is no sparkling in the distributor?
Gotta check coil, points, condenser etc
@@classicvwbugs tanks Chris... I'm going to check'em.
Have issues trying to perform static timing I have done you did on your video except that as soon I connect the light test lights come on I turn the distributor and the light doesn’t go off
I have a kit car with a 1600. It stumbles at lower RPMs under load. Another symptom is the tach bounces quite a bit. Could I have a ground issue that would cause both? Any other thoughts? Engine has roughly 35 hours on it.
Thanks Chris. That is very helpful.
Hi - I have a FI to carb conversion (empi 34 carb). Heat risers were not installed. Bought it like that. I will replace the FI exhaust in order to add those heat risers shortly. Can that be a reason of engine hesitation (carb icing) on higher speed? It happens every couple of minutes, mainly > 50 mph... Great videos BTW, this will help a lot! Very clear and easy to understand
I imagine some people also try to put jets that are too big, thinking it will be faster. That might be true on the big end, but it would almost certainly sputter a bit in the lower revs (before it can get enough air to make the fuel-air mix right).
Great informative video. Thanks.
I once put a new gas tank in my Beetle without cleaning it out first. Big mistake! It clogged the carb and the car would barely run. A mechanic had to remove the tank, clean with solvent, blow out the fuel line, take apart and rebuild the carb. Then it ran fine. Beware of “cheap” parts that lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs.
And make sure you cave a clean (in tank) filter screen
Thank you for your videos. Enjoy them all.
Great video!
Thank you for this video. I have a VW trike with a 1600 dual port and it had the .009 distributor. I just changed it and did the timing and it does appear to run better although I haven't had a chance to ride it yet.
It does appear to have helped quite a bit.
If you have a clogged idle jet which is on the side of the carb the clogged jet will cause the car not too idle when all is adjusted right
Hi Chris
Stan from South Africa.
I want to buy a 1969 VW beetle and I want to know that can I put two carbs on the engine?
Thank you
Sure, but what is your plan? If you have never done it before, you should look to hire someone who has experience with that.
@@classicvwbugs thanks so much
a propane torch , un lit of course, is also a good and less dangerous/messy way to search for a vacuum leak
Great information, thanks!
When everything else is correct, stock jetting, clean carb, SVDA dizzy, timing correct, carb settings nice, and it's still giving you fits... look at clogged heat risers. And you need that extra heat to the air cleaner off the sled... even if your ATS (air temp sensor) is dead or deleted. You NEED that 3rd heating hose to the breather.
You can get away with a bad ATS, but you can't get away with clogged heat risers, and no sled heat to the breather.
i have a 1972 vw bug 1.9 liter with a impi gas 38 carb with a manual fuel pump do i need an electric one? which distributor is best for this set up
I have a ‘72 super beetle. Had carburetor issues and finally bought a new carb and replaced generator with alternator. Worked fine for a while but now it will not idle after it gets warmed up. Cold idles. Car sits a lot. Not driven much at all because afraid it want make it home. Why does it idle fine when cold but not when warm?
I replaced my fuel pump and ever since Iv'e had hesitation issues. I read that the fuel pumping out of the new pump might be overwhelming the carb. i also read that grinding down the rod that drives the pump will relieve this. I will check the accelerator pump and dual jets next. This is a 69 motor in my 65 bug. 1500 cc. Thank you for the info Chris.
Yes, it is sadly not uncommon for a new aftermarket fuel pump which might be producing too much fuel pressure to your carburetor. VW throughout the years and models specified both the minimum and maximum fuel pressure that a fuel pump should put out (it will vary depending on the engine size, year and carb type). Generally speaking, you should have at least 1.8 or so PSI at Idle (about 850 to 1,000 rpm, and a maximum of about 2.8 to 3 PSI at 3,00 PSI). Do NOT grind down your metal fuel pump rod yet, because some adjustment of the pressure can be made simply by either removing or adding more or less paper fuel pump gaskets (but there must ALWAYS be at least one paper gasket both above and below the red-ish/brown-ish plastic "intermediate flange" base between the crankcase and fuel pump!). When/if you have the pump off, measure the exact length of that metal fuel pump rod in millimeters (there are at least two different types/lengths). Do some further research to find out exactly what your engine needs to run smoothly... I won't use an aftermarket fuel pump or carburetor! I only rebuild (or have rebuilt for me) original equipment Pierburg brand fuel pumps and original Solex brand carburetors. The aftermarket stuff is too troublesome, basically rubbish in terms of quality and reliability.
Bill B
My husband just bought me a 69 VW ,it's been sitting for a few years but he's a mechanic had it running rough right after he got it here. Wondering why the brakes look good but aren't working very well?
I can't quite get this straight. Are 30, 36, and 40 horse motors all 1200 cc? What about the 1300, 1500, and 1600 cc motors (66 and later)? Are 25 horse motors 1000 cc? Were multiple motors available on a bug for some years? Link for a timeline of when which motors were available would be nice.
You've been a huge inspiration and I've got a 65' in the garage that I'm now daily driving :) Thanks!
Your best bet for this information is the technical section at www.thesamba.com. 1300cc motors are 50hp, 1500cc was 53hp, and 1600cc are 60hp. In the US Beetles of a given year pretty much all came with the same engine, but in other parts of the world you could buy different models with different engines. For example in 1968 US Beetles came with 1500cc engines, while in Europe you could buy a VW 1200, a VW 1300, or a VW 1500. Aside from the obvious differences in engine size these models were also quite different regarding included amenities.
Well, I guess to keep it easy, the 30 and 36 hp are 1192cc, the 40hp I believe they just went to 1200cc. The 1300cc, 1500cc, and 1600cc were all different HP. Check this out www.jbugs.com/VW-Tech-Article-Engine-Letter-Codes.html
I appreciate the clarification. Thanks 👍
@@jaredkomoroski the 40 is 1192cc, but the block is unique. 61 through 65 virtually unchanged except for heater design. 66 a new block started. VW was trying to keep up with the Datsuns and Toyota's. My '73 1600cc datsun had 90 hp. VW was never gunna compete. Cheers!
I often have a problem that when the engine is warmed up and I turn it off, fuel immediately starts leaking through the emulsion tubes into the throat (barrels). It is then very difficult to start the engine. I always have trouble starting a hot engine. I lowered the float level but then I have a big hole during fast acceleration. It doesn't want to accelerate when I press the gas pedal harder. Fuel pressure ok.
Can you show a close up of where the jet is please
@@sylviescopazzo2445 I have a video on Express carburetor cleaning, take a look at that in my UA-cam. That will show you.
What a great explainer. Thanks for this vid.
Hi chris do you know why 2 same side 2 cylinders are not firing they were working but suddenly died changed sparks , leads,points, rotor ,cap new coil, still not firing just 1,2, are working
Do you have spark to those cylinders? Did you cross wires by any chance?
sorry for late reply the firing order is correct 1432 there is no spark on 3/4 1/2 are fine but misfiring i think the coil is weak thinking of replacing it and distributor would it help in bringing the car back to life
It's probably an air leak at the intake manifold. But - are the plugs tight? Realize they're a cork for an explosion that occurs thousands of times per minute. 25 pounds. Ignore the 18 pound value from the factory.
Good video, but your top 7 only covers early engines. Once we get to the dual port manifolds we have those rubber boots on the intake that are always cracked due to age. Heck, I saw some leaking 40 years ago so I can only imagine how dry rotted they are now!
I have a 70s beetle kit car I was running down the road at about 65 when it stalled out I filled gas tank and charged battery but it will not start. Only thing I changed was I removed a solenoid for the gauges because it was killing my battery any help I know very little about beetles
What state are you located.
Just got my first vw beetle and out of all the other videos I haved seen your's are the best concerning carburetors.
What can make your VW Beetle stall when going down the road and when you go to stop it stalls at a stop sign or stop light ?
Vacuum leak somewhere between base of carby and heads.....is where I’d look first.
Hello , I had a similar issue. and I removed the carb clean it and put it back. but i could not be sure about the issue. any sugestion Chris.
Hey Chris, I'm going to throw a Pertronix III conversion into a stock german vacuum advance distributor. I have proper wires and low resistance coil coming as well. What plug do you recommend with electronic distributor? Ones with 10K resistance or no resistance? Thanks! Love your channel!
Although the Beetle looks unassuming, it certainly has advanced engineering features it's carb and other vital parts.
hello im facing a problem with my 1974 super beetle. It does start up in the morning but when once i drive and stop somewhere for a while (i switched of the engine) , i cant seem to get the engine running unless i wait for a few minutes and sometimes it takes pretty long.
Do you have a video on the electronic ignition? Thanks!!
Yes please , if you can make a video on that would appreciated
Do u have a video on “upgrading from points to petronix”….im with about not dealing with adjusting points, one less thing to worry about. Fyi i have a 72 ghia, 1600 dual port. Any suggestion on brands of necesary items that inwould need; much appreciate!🙏🏻🙏🏻
Ok I have a 1679cc thick wall cyclenders with a Weber progressive carb and 009 distribution. I e changed the jets and have a electronic ignition. It was running great till a few days ago and somehow got out of time. I’ve worked on it for days but long story short I changed the rotor n cap and runs better and staying in time but now I still have a lil hesitation as I’m throttling up and going they the gears. Never had it before so any idea I would appreciate.
Did you figure it out?
Hi Chris, question for you. My 1970 bug starts great, idles well after warm and drives well. However, after I run an errand or go for a cruise, the bug won't idle high enough after restarting without feathering the throttle. Any ideas? Thanks!
Check the air/fuel mix screw .