JBugs - 1969 VW Beetle - Fuel Hose, Filler & Breather Line Replacement
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- View our complete selection of air-cooled VW parts on the JBugs website: www.jbugs.com/
Follow along as we walk you through how to eliminate the smell of gasoline inside your VW Beetle. This is a great DIY project to keep your Volkswagen running smoothly and safely.
Please remember gasoline is flammable so please no open flames and always keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Intro 0:00
Fuel Cap Replacement: 1:02
Fuel Tank Breather Hose Removal: 1:12
Fuel Tank Filler Hose Removal: 1:32
Fuel Tank Breather Hose Installation: 1:39
Fuel Tank Filler Hose Installation: 1:32
Fuel Tank Sending Unit Replacement: 2:39
Fuel Hose Replacement: 3:18
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Tools used in this video:
Bullnose/Linemans Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Utility Knife
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Jack
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Lug Wrench
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The parts used in this video are:
VW Non Locking Gas Cap, 60mm (113201551A)
www.jbugs.com/product/11320155...
VW Fuel Tank Filler Hose (311201219A)
www.jbugs.com/product/31120121...
VW German Cloth Braided Breather Hose 17x2mm (N203701)
www.jbugs.com/product/N203701....
VW German Cloth Braided Fuel Hose 5x2.5mm (N203551)
www.jbugs.com/product/N203551....
VW German Cloth Braided Vacuum Hose 3.5x2mm (N203531)
www.jbugs.com/product/N203531....
VW Gas Tank Sending Unit Seal (111-135)
www.jbugs.com/product/111-135....
VW Fuel Filter (803201551E)
www.jbugs.com/product/80320151...
Metric Worm Drive Hose Clamp, 16-25mm (MH10)
www.jbugs.com/product/MH10.html
Metric Worm Drive Hose Clamp, 8-12mm (MH4)
www.jbugs.com/product/MH4.html
All parts used in this video are available at: www.jbugs.com/
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Videos are intended for entertainment purposes. Factory specifications should be followed when performing any task on your vehicle. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for the informative video. I just discover a leak under the tank(just like you showed) in my 74 Bug and this video is a great help. I thought i'd have to pull everything out to get to it but it doesn't seem so bad after watching the video. Thanks again.
We understand the concerns having the fuel filter in the engine compartment near the carburetor etc. and have never had an issue. As long as the fuel lines and the filter are clamped in place we have never had issues with running the filter in the engine compartment. If you are concerned about the heat, etc. you can move the filter next to the line coming out of the chassis at the rear of the car next to the transmission.
Thanks for your insight.
I did once have a fuel filter show signs of browning/ burning. Not sure why or how. Replaced it and not had that issue again.
LOL, you guys make it look so easy, the rubber hoses are tough and should be put in the sun to heat up. Makes it easier to install along with the four rubber bands that go onto the parts first. My mechanic recommended putting on a little grease to help slide on the big rubber hoses. Being a woman it definitely was a challenge for my hands to wrangle those suckers onto the metal connector hose. Thanks for providing this video!
Good tips Belinda! Our hands are accustomed to the work but for those that aren't, warmed hoses could help, absolutely! If you do use grease though, make sure it is rubber safe (silicone based works well typically) as most grease will deteriorate rubber. We're replacing the hoses because they are deteriorated and don't want to replace them again too soon!
@@JBugsVWParts thanks for the reply :) I got them on a couple days ago. Heat makes a big difference just lay them outside, I did not use grease. I live in Las Vegas and seems I am going to change out these hoses every freakin year...uggghhh. Gasoline fumes come into house because garage is attached.
Belinda Resor Don't feel bad. I just replaced mine on a '72 Ghia. The new part was much beefier with almost no flex. I used some silicone plumbers grease and its was still a huge pain to install. And by the way, I am positive that I am not a woman. Hats off to ya!
@@bingojamas4786 I ripped 2/4 of my stupid thin gaskets and it leaks from the joint between the tank and the filler tube, sigh. I'll try your plumbers grease next time Bingo!
Keep your great job and, I ll keep my THANK YOU
Very helpful!
Thanks!
Thanks a lot for your help
Should have addressed the fact that old VW's that have been sitting may need the line from the tank back to the rear either cleaned out,or replaced due to rust ECT.
A dirty line will restrict fuel flow...I myself had to do it to my 1959 deluxe...I had totally cleaned the tank and pit new German fabric hose on but didn't think of the metal line,
Thus I ended up having to do it ,when I was expecting to take my first test drive....better to know before away from home however....
That's a whole different ball of wax but we do touch base on it when we do the body off on our 1971.
What is the purpose of the short steel sleeve that connects to the tank? What not just use a single piece of hose? Fewer joints to leak in the future!
You’d have to talk to VW on that one. It’s their design and we don’t have a longer rubber hose option.
Is there a video on replacing the steel fuel line that runs through the chassis? This video was very helpful, thank you.
+vza423
That isn't a video we have done, no. There may be a video out there somewhere or you can look for the Hot VWs Tech Article where they covered replacing the fuel lines.
Thanks JBugs....will do more research.
Regarding fuel etc..
I just replaced my fuel tank sending unit and voltage stabiliser. The tank was full of fuel. Then i turned the key and the indicator indicated full (1/1).
Then, I switched headlights on and the indicator needle started to do down. What do you guys think the issue may be ?
We would check that the speedometer is securely mounted and is grounding out to the dash and double check the wiring for the headlight switch and the gauge. The wiring between the two aren’t directly connected so it is very odd that the headlights (battery hot) are affecting the fuel gauge (ignition hot).
I am on the verge of doing this very job. I was curious about the conflicting info I'm getting with regard to venting. Gotta love VW for making a billion minor changes across each year just to confuse the hell out of us eh? HAHA Anyway, do you know if there was originally a second 'T' piece up towards the dash before the vent line turned down towards the tank and tied in to said tank. The second line from this second 'T' piece would continue on and vent out to atmosphere. (??) I looked very closely at your video and you have the very same hole on the driver's side of the trunk further up towards the front. The hose fits in there nicely and, according to some, vent to atmosphere. My car is/was currently setup exactly like yours is in the video. Just trying to get this system setup correctly. Do you know if it was vented to atmosphere as well. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
+surlycrosscheck1
Unfortunately we are not aware of any place that would show the numerous combinations of fuel line vent configurations that were used throughout the years. We can't confirm anything regarding what your car may have had, our apologies.
Is it wise to have the fuel filter between the fuel pump and carburetor? Or, should it be under the car away from the heat?
We understand the concerns having the fuel filter in the engine compartment near the carburetor etc. and have never had an issue. As long as the fuel lines and the filter are clamped in place we have never had issues with running the filter in the engine compartment. If you are concerned about the heat, etc. you can move the filter next to the line coming out of the chassis at the rear of the car next to the transmission.
Replaced my fuel filler hose about 1 yr ago. One, it came with rubber rings to put over the pipe and then slip the hose on... Is that not necessary? Two, they are already cracking... Is this due to the ethanol in our gas or bad hose? Due they make an ethanol safe hose?
We do not offer the rubber rings and have never found a need for them. The cracking hose is most likely from the ethanol. We do not offer anything that is specifically ethanol safe but someone may.
thx for the video, but the issue i see is the 'cheapo' plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment! cause for many bugs to burn. that filter should be moved out of the engine compartment completely (aside the transmission is a good place for example). run a straight hose from outside the engine compartment to your fuel pump. aside cheap filters, lesser connections is key here! every connection point with (you always should) or without hose clamps is a potential leakage point. i don't need to tell you what happens when excessive gasoline pours on very hot surfaces! so filter out of engine compartment, where it can leak/ spill freely on the ground! also, it really doesn't hurt to spend the extra $2 and buy a metal filter (it doesn't need to be some fancy billet model) - the chance that they break is considerably lower, disadvantage - you don't see what is going on and what state they are in (keep a replacement with your spare belt - you carry that right!?). can always swap it, if in doubt.
i know it can go well for many years - i saw to bugs burning to the ground here locally last year. sure includes bad maintenance etc most likely as well - but why run the risk?
just my 2 cents from experience.
We understand the concerns having the fuel filter in the engine compartment near the carburetor etc. and have never had an issue. As long as the fuel lines and the filter are clamped in place we have never had issues with running the filter in the engine compartment. If you are concerned about the heat, etc. you can move the filter next to the line coming out of the chassis at the rear of the car next to the transmission.
How many feet of fuel hose am I going to need to replace all the rubber lines? 1973 Super Beetle
If you are replacing all the lines, about 6-8 feet will be enough for most Beetles.
Where do I find the T for the breather hose
Most auto parts stores will offer universal T fittings that can be used.
I just let all the fuel run out on the ground and then did what i needed to do.
To jbug. I have a 66 baja bug. It does not have a gas cap outside of the car and has no appearance that their has ever been one. Is this normal for a 66 baja bug
Yes, 1967 and older Beetles have a gas cap on top of the fuel tank so you had to open the hood to fill up the fuel tank.
Thank you very much
What sizes are all of the braided hoses that are needed?
That is dependent on the year of the car and if it was a CA or a FEDERAL car.
I've had several people tell me to relocate the fuel filter away from the carb. They claim the weight of the filter can pull the line off the carb and cause a major fuel leak onto the hot engine. Is this a legitimate concern?
We understand the concerns having the fuel filter in the engine compartment near the carburetor etc. and have never had an issue. As long as the fuel lines and the filter are clamped in place we have never had issues with running the filter in the engine compartment. If you are concerned about the heat, etc. you can move the filter next to the line coming out of the chassis at the rear of the car next to the transmission.
John Gassmann
no wont happen if the clamp is tight
where do you buy that plastic "T" breather?
The vent line T is part # 113201157. We do not have a supplier for it currently but other auto suppliers may still have it available.
does everyone else concur that you want to use a 12" hose between the fuel tank and fuel line?
No, the length of the hose depends on the model. The longest fuel filler hose that most VW suppliers offer is 8". There is a steel sleeve between the tank and the body on most VW models to make up the distance.
Have you ever replaced the main steel line that goes thru the body? I'm rebuilding my Super and would like to replace all fuel lines including the chassis line. I can't get consistent fuel pressure and i'm thinking this is a must. A regulator helps but I'd fell better with all new lines
Replacing the steel fuel line that runs through the chassis is not an easy task. The tunnel has to be cut open to access the tabs that secure the line inside the chassis. After those tabs are bent or cut out of the way, getting the fuel line out is relatively simple, but beeding a new line in can be tricky. At the end of the day, we recommend cleaning out the original fuel line. An old throttle or clutch cable works well to feed through the line, then blow the line out with compressed air. Follow that with a rinse with carburetor cleaner and another blast of air. Finally, have an assistant block one end tightly and apply low pressure air (10 psi or so) to other end to check for any leaks.
@@JBugsVWParts thanks i really appreciate it
Can 1965-1967 gas tank fit on 1972 vw standard bettle?
+Alonso N
The 1962-67 fuel tank can be installed in 1968 through 1977 Standard Beetles. The fuel tank sending unit from the later tank will fit the earlier tank as well.
Be careful with fuel filter on engine bay it should be located right under the tank no in back
There is already an in tank filter to take care of most of the debris and sediment in the tank. There is no harm in running the filter in the engine compartment provided that proper care and maintenance are followed. Make sure the filter is clamped in place and that the hoses themselves are not deteriorating. If you live in an area with Ethanol in your fuel, we recommend thoroughly inspecting the fuel hoses every year and replacing the hoses as needed
@@JBugsVWParts For anyone reading this in the future. A filter in the engine bay of a bettle will create an additional failure point and fire risk. Location for fuel filter is in the Mexican factory location at the front of the vehicle as seen in later model years.
For anyone reading this, use common sense and you'll be fine.