I fully agree with your Mike, about the small air connection and about the fuel filter. Here in Brazil I already saw many cases of fire due to bad quality hoses and or bad barbs connection. Never about plastic filters. I have a Brazilian 65 Bus, with a 1200cc engine 34hp). All fuel lines are metalic, and all connections are treads. No leaks at all.
I had a fire once , old rubber cracked and leaked fuel onto the exhaust , luckily it put itself out . I now run R9 fuel hose as it is not affected by modern fuel. My fuel filter is under the rear fender .
I had condensation on just the carburetor holder only just a drop of water that’s all, after I had an Abarth style muffler put on! Any ideas thanks Mike fiaschetti
Would that port on left side you pointed to connect to an svda? And if so is it necessary to run a metal line looped with hose on each end? Also one more question. My manifold has dual port castings with orange boots. It also has a small port on neck under flange. With additional port on drivers side casting. Where or what connects to those. Looks like may have had heat risers that are no longer present, can I seal up if I suspect a vacuum leak there?
yea for sure. and both distributors work ok. I prefer pointless because of the china bosh points and condensers today. They actually fail more than the china pointless IMO. hose on or off of that port does not effect the performance or mixture enough to worry. On a chevy maybe but not a vw because it is too small of an oraphase.
I'm a little confused by your term "Hot". I'm understanding this as "Lean" so that would be hot in the sense of a lean mixture being hotter and as that relates to the engine heads. I'm not sure if in this sense of hot you as well mean that this heat results in a cross transference to other engine metal such as the block and ultimately the engine oil. In this case I'd like to add using Premium Gas, as that is a late-burn keeping the valves cooler. If you mean "Hot" as in "Overheating" the air cooling must be addressed too. In brief, Doctor Porsche designed these engines to be separated and sealed between two sides. The side under the hood is the Cool-Clean side, and the side beneath the car is the Hot-Dirty side. The two sides must be sealed off from one another by the means of the metal work and the flexible gaskets. I mean no disrespect to you but the title and the term hot are confusing me to what you mean. Regarding the carburetor, if the Germans put the little air intake fitting on the side of the carb, than it's there for a reason and I wouldn't cap it. Regarding fuel leaks, if the correct German hose barbs/fittings are being used, as well as the correct German hosing, than you don't need hose clamps. I like your videos and I like your cars too so I subscribe and clicked the bell.
There are 2 ways an engine can run hot: 1) systemically, 2)combustion-wise. This man (Mike FN) is talking about the 2nd one. A quick explanation: Gasoline (aka petrol) has a strong cooling effect when allowed to evaporate (rubbing alcohol on your skin will demonstrate this phenomenon). When an engine is said to be running lean (more air than gasoline) it will still ignite the mixture in the combustion chamber but it will be a hotter process because the hot metal surfaces had less exposure to the evaporating gasoline since there was less of it in the mixture. Continued running like this will heat up the surfaces quicker than the oil or the air (if air cooled) or the coolant could cool the opposite side of these metal structures, so much so that they could start to glow on certain spots. These red hot spots on said metal surfaces will then cause "pre-ignition", which in turn will cause a violent explosion in the engine, which can be heard as a metallic tap in the car, and may even cause catastrophic engine failure by melting the piston and blowing a hole through it in extreme conditions. Hence, the concern about vacuum leaks in the intake making the engine "run hot". With that out of the way, the tube/orifice on the side of the car in the video is not really adding too much air into the mix, according to the video presenter because of the reasons he provide. (I do however beg to differ somewhat on his explanation but let's just go with what is being said in the video for now). That tube is for the vacuum advance mechanism that is supposed to activate the spark advancer mechanism on the distributor. It does not activate until the throttle is opened up from its normal resting position at idle, hence no "vacuum leak" happens until then. My disagreement with Mike is what happens during part throttle because that is when the vacuum leak actually occurs. The effect is less pronounced at wider throttle openings but it does become more significant at part throttle, especially the closer you get to the closed throttle position, adding to the famous flat spot felt during mild acceleration. Nevertheless, i would say that the effect is minimal so as to be negligible because of the accelerator pump that dumps extra fuel during acceleration. It would only be when coasting and opening the throttle valve partially that the leaning out would occur.
Ya man, the keyboard warriors started a WHOLE thing about them damn filters!! EYEROLL, I never use clamps either!! BUT only use german hose and check it regularly! ONLY fire ever was once the bowel plug bolt on lower left side came out because i had forgotten to snug it after a rebuild. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher.
I ususally do but someone commented it will run hot if you dont.And that is not at all true. It is not actually a vacuum leak it is a carburetor vacuum leak which is just unfiltered air.
that little pipe attachment connects to your vacuum advance on your distributor, if you have the matching parts, otherwise plug it off !!!
I fully agree with your Mike, about the small air connection and about the fuel filter. Here in Brazil I already saw many cases of fire due to bad quality hoses and or bad barbs connection. Never about plastic filters. I have a Brazilian 65 Bus, with a 1200cc engine 34hp). All fuel lines are metalic, and all connections are treads. No leaks at all.
That small port you showed first is for the hose to the vacuum advance of the distributor. The “flap” is called the throttle plate.
Yeap, he should have known that.
Thank you for the information
I had a fire once , old rubber cracked and leaked fuel onto the exhaust , luckily it put itself out .
I now run R9 fuel hose as it is not affected by modern fuel.
My fuel filter is under the rear fender .
Why have filter there when there are other places to put it and yes you are right about the lines ..
Well said and well explained.
I had condensation on just the carburetor holder only just a drop of water that’s all, after I had an Abarth style muffler put on! Any ideas thanks Mike fiaschetti
Would that port on left side you pointed to connect to an svda? And if so is it necessary to run a metal line looped with hose on each end? Also one more question. My manifold has dual port castings with orange boots. It also has a small port on neck under flange. With additional port on drivers side casting. Where or what connects to those. Looks like may have had heat risers that are no longer present, can I seal up if I suspect a vacuum leak there?
The vacuum port is for stock vacuum distributor . You have a centrifugal distributor 👍
yea for sure. and both distributors work ok. I prefer pointless because of the china bosh points and condensers today. They actually fail more than the china pointless IMO. hose on or off of that port does not effect the performance or mixture enough to worry. On a chevy maybe but not a vw because it is too small of an oraphase.
I have had 3 vans and 2 bugs
@@oscarblom4885 awsome
Hi, looking for advise...engine sputters and takes a while to die after switched off. Thx !
It IS a vacuum leak - if not using it, plug it.
I'm a little confused by your term "Hot". I'm understanding this as "Lean" so that would be hot in the sense of a lean mixture being hotter and as that relates to the engine heads. I'm not sure if in this sense of hot you as well mean that this heat results in a cross transference to other engine metal such as the block and ultimately the engine oil. In this case I'd like to add using Premium Gas, as that is a late-burn keeping the valves cooler. If you mean "Hot" as in "Overheating" the air cooling must be addressed too. In brief, Doctor Porsche designed these engines to be separated and sealed between two sides. The side under the hood is the Cool-Clean side, and the side beneath the car is the Hot-Dirty side. The two sides must be sealed off from one another by the means of the metal work and the flexible gaskets. I mean no disrespect to you but the title and the term hot are confusing me to what you mean. Regarding the carburetor, if the Germans put the little air intake fitting on the side of the carb, than it's there for a reason and I wouldn't cap it. Regarding fuel leaks, if the correct German hose barbs/fittings are being used, as well as the correct German hosing, than you don't need hose clamps. I like your videos and I like your cars too so I subscribe and clicked the bell.
There are 2 ways an engine can run hot: 1) systemically, 2)combustion-wise. This man (Mike FN) is talking about the 2nd one. A quick explanation: Gasoline (aka petrol) has a strong cooling effect when allowed to evaporate (rubbing alcohol on your skin will demonstrate this phenomenon). When an engine is said to be running lean (more air than gasoline) it will still ignite the mixture in the combustion chamber but it will be a hotter process because the hot metal surfaces had less exposure to the evaporating gasoline since there was less of it in the mixture. Continued running like this will heat up the surfaces quicker than the oil or the air (if air cooled) or the coolant could cool the opposite side of these metal structures, so much so that they could start to glow on certain spots. These red hot spots on said metal surfaces will then cause "pre-ignition", which in turn will cause a violent explosion in the engine, which can be heard as a metallic tap in the car, and may even cause catastrophic engine failure by melting the piston and blowing a hole through it in extreme conditions. Hence, the concern about vacuum leaks in the intake making the engine "run hot".
With that out of the way, the tube/orifice on the side of the car in the video is not really adding too much air into the mix, according to the video presenter because of the reasons he provide. (I do however beg to differ somewhat on his explanation but let's just go with what is being said in the video for now). That tube is for the vacuum advance mechanism that is supposed to activate the spark advancer mechanism on the distributor. It does not activate until the throttle is opened up from its normal resting position at idle, hence no "vacuum leak" happens until then. My disagreement with Mike is what happens during part throttle because that is when the vacuum leak actually occurs. The effect is less pronounced at wider throttle openings but it does become more significant at part throttle, especially the closer you get to the closed throttle position, adding to the famous flat spot felt during mild acceleration. Nevertheless, i would say that the effect is minimal so as to be negligible because of the accelerator pump that dumps extra fuel during acceleration. It would only be when coasting and opening the throttle valve partially that the leaning out would occur.
@@ChuddleBuggy perfect
How much fuel fills up that filter while engine is at idle? Does it fill half way, or all the way?
What about when it gets warmed up. Mine stalls out when I put on the brakes. When it's warmed up
Ya man, the keyboard warriors started a WHOLE thing about them damn filters!! EYEROLL, I never use clamps either!! BUT only use german hose and check it regularly! ONLY fire ever was once the bowel plug bolt on lower left side came out because i had forgotten to snug it after a rebuild. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher.
Why not just put a cap the vacuum port?
I ususally do but someone commented it will run hot if you dont.And that is not at all true. It is not actually a vacuum leak it is a carburetor vacuum leak which is just unfiltered air.
Butterfly!