I went to work for VW in 1971 and for the next 13 years I worked on these cars. I used to use a 130 main jet in these carbs, it did not impact fuel mileage but eliminated the flat spot just off idle. Those centrifugal only advance distributors will never work right on this car, they are only good for about 15/20 degrees of advance and this engine needs much more, it would run much better with the original distributor. (vacuum retard/advance) 1971 was the first year of the AS41 case which stopped the need for case inserts later on. These 1600's are pretty good engines...
The smoke could be excess fuel that has leaked down into the cylinders, or it could be oil leaking into the cylinder. If the smoke is black, fuel is usually the cause and the carburetor might need some work or the fuel pressure might be too high. If it is grey or white, that would indicate oil and indicate the engine has some wear, possibly worn pistons and cylinders, bad valve guides, etc.
Installed this carb on a fresh top end rebuild right out of the box. Due to mismarked Magnaspark coil, the idle solenoid wires were installed on the negative side instead of the positive side. Upon starting the motor, it runs strong but dies after a minute or so. It will restart and will only remain running if the throttle is opened up. Once it is let go, the engine dies again. I haven't adjusted the bypass/idle or the air control screw yet as my understanding this carb should keep the engine running out of the box. What is the probability the idle solenoid was smoked due to being reversed? I've read on the troubleshooting: removing the solenoid and plugging the hole + still no idle means the issue is not the solenoid.
If the car runs initially, this is typically when the choke is closed, shutting off some of the air flow to the engine. When the choke opens, and the engine gets more air, and then it won't idle, this usually tells us that there is an intake leak.
@@Sam_Mebane By "intake", you mean intake manifold? A leak between carb and intake or head and DP intake end castings? I purchased and installed 113129701AQ from Jbugs and used all new gaskets for the carb and end castings.
@@paulcostinett886 the intake is anywhere from the carburetor to the cylinder heads. There are multiple gaskets and connections not to mention ports on the carburetor. A leak at any of them can cause an intake leak.
Those tach timing guns make this stupidly easy, first time I used one instead of doing it by ear it was just something else. Do you guys sell the vacuum advance module on the distributor by itself? I looked but didn’t see it, the car has what I think is the original distributor that works great but I’m almost certain the vacuum advance doesn’t work due to a bad diaphragm.
Hola que tal! Que marca es el carburador? Y en donde lo puedo comprar? Y también el equipo que usa para sincronizar el carburador donde lo puedo comprar? Gracias!
El carburador está disponible en jbugs.com, busque el enlace en la descripción del video. No es necesario sincronizar un solo carburador. Utilizo una luz de sincronización con lectura digital de RPM para ajustar el carburador.
There are a couple of things to check, but you might have a vacuum leak. Assuming you've gone through the ignition system, made sure that the timing is correct and the valves are adjusted properly, start the car and let the engine warm up. This is key as any tuning to the carburetor before the engine is warmed up and the choke is open is fruitless. Once the engine is warmed up, set the bypass/idle screw (the large one) to your preferred idle speed. From here, checking for a vacuum leak would be my next step. CAUTIOUSLY spray some brake or carb cleaner, ether, etc. (all very flammable liquids, so again use caution especially near the coil, distributor, spark plugs and wires. around the base of the carburetor, the intake manifold boots and the cylinder heads. Have a fire extinguisher handy! Listen for the idle/engine speed to increase. If it does, note where the fluid was sprayed and you've most likely found your intake leak. Hopefully this helps you track down your problem.
@Sam_Mebane Thanks, Sam! All great tips and steps to make sure of upon installation on new carb. Seems like after getting warmed up and making small turns of bypass and volume screws, it has stopped dying after throttling up and releasing back to idle. Either had too much air or combination insufficient fuel. I removed 40 hp og German fuel pump as much as I did not want to and hooked electric pump back up after noticing empty fuel bowl. Now hopefully can get on road without dying out again. Cross your fingers 😄 🤣
@@Sam_MebaneNOTE: We do not recommend pairing this carburetor with an aftermarket SVDA style distributor as 30PICT carbs do not draw enough vacuum to properly actuate the vacuum diaphragm. It pairs well with original vacuum advance distributors which don't require as much vacuum signal.
Related to this, how do you know when the throttle bushings are worn out and the carb needs to be replaced? I have what I believe is the original 30pict1 on my Bug and have noticed some slop in the rod on the throttle cable side
Sorry Chris, just saw this! You can check by spraying a little carb or brake cleaner (anything flammable) around the throttle shaft (carefully of course) and se if the idle speed increases. Additionally you can pull the air cleaner off and cover the throat of the carburetor with your hand slightly. There should be a very strong suction and the engine should stall out as soon as your hand closes the top. If the engine continues to run, or you can hear air entering the carburetor still, chances are the throttle shaft (or some other area) is allowing air to enter. Any slop up or down on the throttle shaft would indicate worn bushings though so it might be time to take it apart and at least do some further investigating.
@@chrisfreemesser I'm a big fan of them, I just installed one on our 1967 - ua-cam.com/video/gxEG-QITUXU/v-deo.html and got it tuned in a video dropping on the 16th this month.
That depends on the intake manifold, and possibly the distributor. If you have a single port intake manifold and original vacuum advance distributor, the 30PICT carburetor is best. If you have a single port manifold and and aftermarket vacuum advance distributor the 34 will work with an adapter plate and would work better.
Is the.vent that you plugged on the air cleaner to fan shroud PERMANENT? Please tell me why and if I should do it. It seem like the right thing to do. Like this and other series you are doing.
I'm not sure what fan shroud plug you're referring to, but nothing is typically permanent. Regardless, any hole on the fan shroud that isn't blowing air for a purpose, should be plugged.
The carburetor is linked in the description and right here - www.jbugs.com/product/113129031KJB.html We no longer offer a printed catalog. All of our products and current prices are listed on our website.
Just so I get this right, I set the idle high around 1500 and then using the air mixture screw make it smooth, and then lower the idle till around 900?
After the engine and the carb are warmed up, and the choke (fast idle) screw is set, we set the idle speed at about 900 rpm using the bypass (large) screw. This starts at the 5:40 mark. Then we work on the air (the small) screw to get the highest idle speed. Turning the air control screw out until the idle speed gets to the highest RPM. Past this point, unscrewing the air screw actually slows down the engine speed. Once that point on the air screw is reached, we go back to the bypass screw and turn it in to set our idle speed to 900 rpm.
We have the same E10-E15 blends here in the states. So far we haven't had any issues with the carb seals, it is always the rubber hoses that deteriorate so we replace them regularly.
Andy, VW Engineering here. U.K. Ethanol E10, we have seen makes fuel pumps leak, and fuel hoses deteriorate. I’ve seen online testing show that over longer periods of time E10 starts to react with the alloy of these carburettors, causing a white powdery build up to form inside float chambers, which in turn could cause blocked passages. Don’t use it.
@@mewithoutYou52 Use a timing light with a digital read out. There is no need to listen for what "sounds" correct, you can know for certain what the highest RPM point is and watch the adjustment change the RPM.
I have a 71 bus with this carburetor, but I think the dude I bought it from didn’t tune it properly. Is there a reset position for the two screws to start from scratch to tune it? It keeps flooding. (High elevation- Denver)
To go back to a baseline, we gently turn both screws in all the way. Do not over tighten them as the screws and the seat are very fragile. From there, turn both screws out 1 and a half turns, (360 degrees, then 180 more).
I went to work for VW in 1971 and for the next 13 years I worked on these cars. I used to use a 130 main jet in these carbs, it did not impact fuel mileage but eliminated the flat spot just off idle. Those centrifugal only advance distributors will never work right on this car, they are only good for about 15/20 degrees of advance and this engine needs much more, it would run much better with the original distributor. (vacuum retard/advance)
1971 was the first year of the AS41 case which stopped the need for case inserts later on. These 1600's are pretty good engines...
where did you put all original Vacuum control parts !!
We didn’t take any of them off, I don’t think…the owner of this car has all the parts he’s taken off sitting somewhere.
What's the problem when
you're vw beetle produces a lot of smoke everytime you turn it on
The smoke could be excess fuel that has leaked down into the cylinders, or it could be oil leaking into the cylinder. If the smoke is black, fuel is usually the cause and the carburetor might need some work or the fuel pressure might be too high. If it is grey or white, that would indicate oil and indicate the engine has some wear, possibly worn pistons and cylinders, bad valve guides, etc.
This vid along with the SVDA vid helped a great deal. Thanks 👍👍👍
We're glad to help Otto!
Installed this carb on a fresh top end rebuild right out of the box. Due to mismarked Magnaspark coil, the idle solenoid wires were installed on the negative side instead of the positive side. Upon starting the motor, it runs strong but dies after a minute or so. It will restart and will only remain running if the throttle is opened up. Once it is let go, the engine dies again. I haven't adjusted the bypass/idle or the air control screw yet as my understanding this carb should keep the engine running out of the box. What is the probability the idle solenoid was smoked due to being reversed? I've read on the troubleshooting: removing the solenoid and plugging the hole + still no idle means the issue is not the solenoid.
If the car runs initially, this is typically when the choke is closed, shutting off some of the air flow to the engine. When the choke opens, and the engine gets more air, and then it won't idle, this usually tells us that there is an intake leak.
@@Sam_Mebane By "intake", you mean intake manifold? A leak between carb and intake or head and DP intake end castings? I purchased and installed 113129701AQ from Jbugs and used all new gaskets for the carb and end castings.
@@paulcostinett886 the intake is anywhere from the carburetor to the cylinder heads. There are multiple gaskets and connections not to mention ports on the carburetor. A leak at any of them can cause an intake leak.
Those tach timing guns make this stupidly easy, first time
I used one instead of doing it by ear it was just something else.
Do you guys sell the vacuum advance module on the distributor by itself? I looked but didn’t see it, the car has what I think is the original distributor that works great but I’m almost certain the vacuum advance doesn’t work due to a bad diaphragm.
We don't have a supplier for the vacuum cans, no. A timing light with the tach readout was a game changer for sure, it makes tuning so much easier!
Take the hose off the carb going to distributor, remove cap and cover, suck on hose and watch advance
Duda. No son mejores los carburadores Empi ??
En nuestra opinión no, este carburador tiene un circuito de aceleración mucho mejor, incluso si se utiliza con un distribuidor 009.
I have 1969 single port bug. Will that fit in that manifold or do I need an adapter?
You would need an adapter to fit the larger carburetor to the smaller intake manifold.
Hola que tal! Que marca es el carburador? Y en donde lo puedo comprar? Y también el equipo que usa para sincronizar el carburador donde lo puedo comprar? Gracias!
El carburador está disponible en jbugs.com, busque el enlace en la descripción del video. No es necesario sincronizar un solo carburador. Utilizo una luz de sincronización con lectura digital de RPM para ajustar el carburador.
If RPMs have no reaction when idle & air screws are adjusted what does that mean? Clogged jets?
Possibly, but an intake leak could also cause the same problem.
Got mine installed starts up great, idles fine, but after revving it, it just dies out. Any suggestions
There are a couple of things to check, but you might have a vacuum leak. Assuming you've gone through the ignition system, made sure that the timing is correct and the valves are adjusted properly, start the car and let the engine warm up. This is key as any tuning to the carburetor before the engine is warmed up and the choke is open is fruitless. Once the engine is warmed up, set the bypass/idle screw (the large one) to your preferred idle speed. From here, checking for a vacuum leak would be my next step. CAUTIOUSLY spray some brake or carb cleaner, ether, etc. (all very flammable liquids, so again use caution especially near the coil, distributor, spark plugs and wires. around the base of the carburetor, the intake manifold boots and the cylinder heads. Have a fire extinguisher handy! Listen for the idle/engine speed to increase. If it does, note where the fluid was sprayed and you've most likely found your intake leak. Hopefully this helps you track down your problem.
@Sam_Mebane Thanks, Sam! All great tips and steps to make sure of upon installation on new carb. Seems like after getting warmed up and making small turns of bypass and volume screws, it has stopped dying after throttling up and releasing back to idle. Either had too much air or combination insufficient fuel. I removed 40 hp og German fuel pump as much as I did not want to and hooked electric pump back up after noticing empty fuel bowl. Now hopefully can get on road without dying out again. Cross your fingers 😄 🤣
Will this work on a 1500 single port with a svda distributor?
No, you would need our 30PICT1 replacement carburetor - www.jbugs.com/product/113129029HJB.html
@@Sam_MebaneNOTE: We do not recommend pairing this carburetor with an aftermarket SVDA style distributor as 30PICT carbs do not draw enough vacuum to properly actuate the vacuum diaphragm. It pairs well with original vacuum advance distributors which don't require as much vacuum signal.
Correct, sorry it was early @@joehoupe8874 I should have clarified. It will work with an ORIGINAL svda (Bosch) distributor.
Здравствуйте. Подскажите пожалуйста. Мотор не запускается. Схватывает и глохнет.
Надеюсь, вы сможете перевести эту страницу - www.vw-resource.com/car_wont_start.html.
@@Sam_Mebane спасибо почитаю
@@Sam_Mebane Добрый день. Коммутатор есть на Volkswagen Жук или нет? Или только катушка стоит зажигания?
Все запустил это пылесос😁 спасибо
Related to this, how do you know when the throttle bushings are worn out and the carb needs to be replaced? I have what I believe is the original 30pict1 on my Bug and have noticed some slop in the rod on the throttle cable side
Sorry Chris, just saw this! You can check by spraying a little carb or brake cleaner (anything flammable) around the throttle shaft (carefully of course) and se if the idle speed increases. Additionally you can pull the air cleaner off and cover the throat of the carburetor with your hand slightly. There should be a very strong suction and the engine should stall out as soon as your hand closes the top. If the engine continues to run, or you can hear air entering the carburetor still, chances are the throttle shaft (or some other area) is allowing air to enter. Any slop up or down on the throttle shaft would indicate worn bushings though so it might be time to take it apart and at least do some further investigating.
@@Sam_Mebane I've got fuel leaking out of the throttle shaft so I think it's toast. Just ordered one of your 30PICT1 carbs, we'll see how it works!
@@chrisfreemesser I'm a big fan of them, I just installed one on our 1967 - ua-cam.com/video/gxEG-QITUXU/v-deo.html and got it tuned in a video dropping on the 16th this month.
spray carb cleaner on both sides of the bushings while it is running. if it bogs or revs, your carb is shot
I have a 1500 cc engine in a Veep kit car. Would the 34 be a good replacement?
That depends on the intake manifold, and possibly the distributor. If you have a single port intake manifold and original vacuum advance distributor, the 30PICT carburetor is best. If you have a single port manifold and and aftermarket vacuum advance distributor the 34 will work with an adapter plate and would work better.
I have a Single port intake and a Bosch 009 distributer. @@Sam_Mebane
@@charlesloar3210 in which case a 30PICT - www.jbugs.com/product/113129029HJB.html - will be your best bet.
Is the.vent that you plugged on the air cleaner to fan shroud PERMANENT? Please tell me why and if I should do it. It seem like the right thing to do. Like this and other series you are doing.
I'm not sure what fan shroud plug you're referring to, but nothing is typically permanent. Regardless, any hole on the fan shroud that isn't blowing air for a purpose, should be plugged.
J Bugs. The 34 PIC carburator. What is the price?.I need a catalog. Thank you
The carburetor is linked in the description and right here - www.jbugs.com/product/113129031KJB.html
We no longer offer a printed catalog. All of our products and current prices are listed on our website.
Can u show location of the idle jet and the main jet?,..i think mine are clogged
www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html - here is a good break down and write up on rebuilding / cleaning the 34PICT3.
Just so I get this right, I set the idle high around 1500 and then using the air mixture screw make it smooth, and then lower the idle till around 900?
After the engine and the carb are warmed up, and the choke (fast idle) screw is set, we set the idle speed at about 900 rpm using the bypass (large) screw. This starts at the 5:40 mark. Then we work on the air (the small) screw to get the highest idle speed. Turning the air control screw out until the idle speed gets to the highest RPM. Past this point, unscrewing the air screw actually slows down the engine speed. Once that point on the air screw is reached, we go back to the bypass screw and turn it in to set our idle speed to 900 rpm.
@Sam_Mebane thank you very much, this could explain why I've never had it running quite right
I appreciate your explanation. That makes a whole lot more sense. Thanks for the video tutorial.
We have E10 fuel in the UK do you have the same fuel and are their any issues with rubber seals perishing due to the high ethanol content
We have the same E10-E15 blends here in the states. So far we haven't had any issues with the carb seals, it is always the rubber hoses that deteriorate so we replace them regularly.
Andy, VW Engineering here. U.K. Ethanol E10, we have seen makes fuel pumps leak, and fuel hoses deteriorate. I’ve seen online testing show that over longer periods of time E10 starts to react with the alloy of these carburettors, causing a white powdery build up to form inside float chambers, which in turn could cause blocked passages. Don’t use it.
@@andylitchfield
All fuels contains ethanol ... these days
Wish he didn’t speed up the video. I wanted to hear how it increases in rpm.
Same. That's the main reason I wanted to watch this video. I don't know how things are supposed to sound.
@@mewithoutYou52 Use a timing light with a digital read out. There is no need to listen for what "sounds" correct, you can know for certain what the highest RPM point is and watch the adjustment change the RPM.
I have a 71 bus with this carburetor, but I think the dude I bought it from didn’t tune it properly. Is there a reset position for the two screws to start from scratch to tune it? It keeps flooding. (High elevation- Denver)
To go back to a baseline, we gently turn both screws in all the way. Do not over tighten them as the screws and the seat are very fragile. From there, turn both screws out 1 and a half turns, (360 degrees, then 180 more).
@@Sam_Mebane thank you so much!