FYI, Vance and Hines writes in the user manual that Harley Davidson states 900 RPM is the minimum idle speed to maintain adequate oil pressure. I hope this helps anyone who is on the fence about doing this to their Sportster. Check your user manual about the minimum idle engine speed for your bike if you have a different Harley model.
@@semtech30 many things can affect oil pressure. RPM, oil weight, fill level, bike temperature/ outside temperature, mechanical issues. I wouldn't run it with the oil light on, but you might want to look into the other things I mentioned because most people can adjust to 900 without the light coming on. Good luck.
Hi brother, i need a little help here, the new FP3 is an updated software and it looks a little bit different, it's 4 columns horizontally on each of what you have, do i need to change it in all 4 in each column?
@@javoriversen4605 what are the 4 columns labeled? I'm not familiar with the new app. I might be able to take a look in the next couple of days. I'll let you know what I find.
Great info...being 61 years old biker my whole life, the idle rpm is what lets you control your downshifts/braking which is proper technique for operating any manual transmission. Tuning by ear and vibration thru seat is correct way to maximize optimum control of your machine.
How long do you actually idle. If your sitting at a light for 5min don't you goose the throttle? So I don't see a problem with lowering the idle to a reasonable range.. my concern is changing the crappy stock oil pump to an S&S or Fueling.
I have a 2011 Fatboy lo and plan on ordering a fuelpac soon for decel popping and I was hoping it would allow me to lower rpms too. Thanks for the video and explanation.
You can also take out the baffles and it will idle a hell of a lot lower lol You do NOT want it to idle under 1k, I set mine to idle at 1100! It takes off smoothly and turns over immediately... They say 900 is the minimum, but it's not the recommended and it's also not 900 on every bike. They say that so that that they are not liable when you screw up the bike and of course Harley is not liable because you modified it without them. If someone has a FP3 FuelPak then they should find the EXACT tune for the bike, it has a map for every make/model, with every exhaust and even as maps with quiet baffles and without baffles entirely as of last year. You can do a auto-tune, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have three or four hours minimum to run through every single gear in a wide range of rpm to torque, it's a very precise thing to do a proper tune.
Plain and simple guys you'll hammer out the rods for sure no questions about it. But it sure sounds cool while the engine has very low miles on it ..but don't expect anything close to or over 100,000 miles as by anything around 500 RPM idle that number in engine life expectancy will be cut in half maybe three times before the rods are going clink clink clink sounding like a bucket of bolts.... and today Harley-Davidson allows crankshaft run outs to be in excess of 0.005ths of an inch wobble wobble actually causes the connecting rods to try and do a figure eight while the connecting rods are moving up and down not to mention they tell you to check that out before you install a tighter tolerance higher pressure oil pump on the new twin cams and why the new twin cams and Milwaukee eights single cam but still have a cam chain have dual counter balancers to correct for the imbalance so you don't feel it but it's in there tearing the shit out of things And it's time all you bookworms got your hands dirty and learn how to totally balance and blueprint your Harley-Davidson engine like I can and you can't......to have a totally perfect assembled Harley-Davidson engine that doesn't need any counter balancers at all like all of them from the evolution era and older and being said the evolution engines are the very best Harley-Davidson engines ever produced ever will be produced ever has been produced and ever anything you will ever build with today's technology and we'll have the finest running Harley on the planet as my first one I ever built was the 1968 shovelhead 37 years ago and it's still ripped roaring burning the tires off today by the fourth owner and I should be shot in the head for selling it... As it was a 1968 original paint job Electra glide in blue just like the one in the movie and I sold it for $2,800 bucks so I wouldn't get my dirt bike repossessed by the bank.... And just last year that was 37 years after I owned it the son of the restoration shop asked me what the hell you and his Dad did to it to make it so goddamn fast...and I'm like duuuh it's still running after all these years .. thinking who can make that brag You start with the basic reciprocating assembly and hand fit each roller bearing one at a time until you can line up the crank pin in a straight line with the bearing set around the inner race of the connecting rod until it just barely slides through without hanging up giving you no clearance at all between the connecting rod race and the crank pin but what is called a plug fit it will still turn but won't lock up ... then you got to spend a few miles bringing it up to revs under load while you're riding it to break it in like it used to call for in the Harley-Davidson owner's manual back in the 50s.... So once you get the perfect fitment of your male and female connecting rods to the crank pin you put the crankshaft together with no connecting rods attached at all and go to the ritual with a brass hammer banging on the flywheels of the crankshaft with no rods connected and checking it's run out until you get zero run out no deflection no wobble at all while turning it while the crank is mounted up in a crankshaft run out tool that supports the crankshaft on both ends and with indicators on both main bearing surfaces while turning the crank you don't want to see anything but zero on your dial indicators now it's ready to be sent to precision balance of Indianapolis Indiana where they will weigh to the half a gram what your entire rotating assembly weight to the half a gram is ... Then they will attach a compartment that will hold lead shot to the crankshaft pin and spin balance the crankshaft to the maximum rpm that you require your engine is going to be run at.... Then when you get it all back from the balance shop you take the crankshaft apart and assemble it with the connecting rods attached and go through the ritual again of tapping the flywheels until you get zero run out again on the crankshaft.... And you will find as I did is the best bang for horsepower free cuz you will gain some horsepower over not doing it at all as my friends found out and I found out to my surprise that we all did at the same time when they challenged me to a drag race with my 68 electric light in blue against a 650 triumph Bonneville and a 1976 cb750f Super sport Honda as all three of us took off at the same time and in a quarter mile nobody passed me and I never did set the idle RPMs real low at all but possibly sounding at least a thousand RPMs or more and it sounds like a Honda Shadow as I only used an Andrews low profile "A" grind camshaft smooth running as silk and passed the beer can test setting an open can of beer on the front fender rev it up and it doesn't foam over
I was under the impression that lowering the idle RPM would also lower the oil pressure? Lower oil pressure means that the bike is not getting the lubrication it needs at idle?
It's 100% correct that lowering the idle will lower the oil pressure. However, based on my research, a slight idle drop doesn't lower the oil pressure enough to have negative consequences (I've never had the oil light come on either.) As with any and all modifications, do your own research and make a judgement call if you're comfortable with doing this to your bike.
Hi, thanks for the video. Very informative. I also have a 2017 Iron 883 with the Stage 1 V&H FP3 and I'm about to lower the idle rpm to 900. As it has been 2 years since you've uploaded this video, I assume you have a good view on this mods if it done any harm to your bike. I hope it has not and I can also do it on mine as I just love that low idle. Thanks for your reply.
I haven't seen any negative side effects from doing this. You'll also find that Harley States that you can lower the idle to 900 without any issues, but they say that any lower and you can run into problems. Thanks for watching.
Any thoughts on putting bits of meat in the oil reservoir during winterization and the added benefits of doing so for people who may be unfamiliar with this method?
You could be talking about lugging the motor. If you are, then no FP3 won't help with this. You just need to run a slightly higher RPM and it will smooth out. Personally, I love the sound of running the bike at a very low RPM but I can't for the same reason.
@@antonysebastian9860 Vacuum leak good luck with that I gave up and went to the dealership but I believe you can do it with some smoke just find a spot where the smoke gets sucked in somewhere it's not supposed to be sucking from like a hose or something probably close to your air intake
The dealership will give you problem but just keep sending it back again and again they hate me I must have cost them more than by bike was work in all the free labor I made them do on it use that warranty it's there for a reason
Sometimes it's not just the oil pressure. Bear in mind, rotating mass must keep moving to a certain pace. If it's too low, cracking the throttle from such low RPM's can affect the engine too.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam I got the quiet baffles since the day I installed the short shots and i think they are too quiet for me but in afraid of removing the quiet baffles and add the original baffles and then being too loud for my taste, but the only way to find out is to do the swap
The stock baffles are kind of high pitched. So, you should know that before you she'll out the cash for them. I'm considering the DK Customs torque cone inserts. The cones are supposed to improve torque through increased backpressure as well as taking down the high pitch sound of the stock baffles. 🤘
I have the short shots with no baffles.Its pretty loud and I don't get bothered by the cops but that would also be because harley's are suppose to be loud lol.
I tried a manuel idle valve which works but mine throws a p0505 idle code which iv orderd a new idle valve because old on flew apart when i turned it off just after 20 miles i suggest any one wants lower idle get the fuel pack
If you only installed the slip-ons, you probably don't need to change the tune with the FP3, but yes you still can install the FP3, run the stock map and adjust the idle.
Lowering the idle by a few RPM's should be fine from what I've read. I haven't noticed any issues with the bike but if you go too low, you won't have enough oil at the top of the motor and you could experience charging issues. The only negative side effect is that there's a hole in the ozone over my bike because I just let it idle for days. Sounds so good.
The Vance and Hines short shot tune with no baffles does not work with it. The fuel gauge won’t work and there is no back pressure when you turn it over. But it runs well with the standard tune. Not much of a difference in the rpms. I tuned it to 900 but it drops all the way down to 800. Other than that It’s cool. Wouldn’t recommend it on a M8 motor.
@@daughtrymitchell3606 Do you have short shots without baffles? Interesting if that wasn't the best fit. If you DO have that setup, they also assume you are going with a new air intake/ cleaner as well. Without it, I would think that would probably perform similarly (or worse) than stock. Just some thoughts. Either way, thanks for sharing.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam I have short shots with removable baffles. Even if the back pressure issue can be solved getting a new air cleaner, it still wouldn’t fix my digital fuel gauge. Idk. It sound good on the standard short shot tune and the digital fuel gauge works. Maybe a auto tune would be the preferred method because of the stock air cleaner.
I do not recommend this. On later engines, including evos, the correct idle is around 1,000rpm. Book may vary a little away from that. Oil pressure may be a consideration, but another is crankshaft speed. The slower the idle speed, the more the rotational speed varies, with the crank slowing as it reaches each compression cycle, then accelerating after each. Not good for bearings etc! So keep idle where it belongs! Shovels and old school pans can cope with a slower idle speed because they have heavier flywheels, to keep things smoooooth.
I wouldn't lower the idle.I did and it caused problems with my bike and only changed the values in the dark blue slots.If your bike starts to seem like its choking out when you open the throttle under load riding change it back immediately.keeping the idle low while having this problem will forsure cause damage.like he says these new bikes Idle higher because they are fuel injected and that is for a reason.I do not have any problems with my bike and after changing the idle back it runs fine and smoother so if anyone feels the need to challenge me on this statement go ahead.
Did you buy/ did they send you the right tuner for your bike? If yes, just call Vance and Hines. I've heard they are helpful to get it working right for you.
I actually figured it out somehow 5 minutes after I commented. Instead of going directly to the Idle RPM option under map optimization, I pressed and held on the map that’s flashed and pressed edit there then ended up finding idle rom through that and it worked.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam the iron was just a bit too small for me but I rode it 2 years and it kept its value. Mine had the big radius so I obviously got the same set up on my breakout
True! I think there is a lot of politics that go into the emissions restrictions on these bikes. I know sportster are popular in other countries that have stricter emissions requirements and it probably trickles down to the US models. Let's be honest, NONE of the stock exhaust systems sound good enough to keep IMO! Thanks for watching!
I hate when people remind me to subscribe. The only way your channel can grow is by making interesting and good quality videos. Do better videos and stop begging or quit.
FYI, Vance and Hines writes in the user manual that Harley Davidson states 900 RPM is the minimum idle speed to maintain adequate oil pressure. I hope this helps anyone who is on the fence about doing this to their Sportster. Check your user manual about the minimum idle engine speed for your bike if you have a different Harley model.
Um, there is an oil pressure light. When it's on it's danger.
@@semtech30 many things can affect oil pressure. RPM, oil weight, fill level, bike temperature/ outside temperature, mechanical issues. I wouldn't run it with the oil light on, but you might want to look into the other things I mentioned because most people can adjust to 900 without the light coming on. Good luck.
@@semtech30 aka the idiot light.
if you rely on this lil light , well your asking for trouble.
Hi brother, i need a little help here, the new FP3 is an updated software and it looks a little bit different, it's 4 columns horizontally on each of what you have, do i need to change it in all 4 in each column?
@@javoriversen4605 what are the 4 columns labeled? I'm not familiar with the new app. I might be able to take a look in the next couple of days. I'll let you know what I find.
Great info...being 61 years old biker my whole life, the idle rpm is what lets you control your downshifts/braking which is proper technique for operating any manual transmission. Tuning by ear and vibration thru seat is correct way to maximize optimum control of your machine.
Dude I can’t believe this was your video, I literally adjusted my bike to your settings!
Awesome! 🤘
I did this, awesome difference in sound. Bike seems more settled. Thanks.
i set mine to 740 on a 2019 softail w/ a 107. has 2BR 2 into 1 and arlen ness big sucker only. runs and sounds perfect for last 3 yrs!
It must sound killer!
How long do you actually idle. If your sitting at a light for 5min don't you goose the throttle? So I don't see a problem with lowering the idle to a reasonable range.. my concern is changing the crappy stock oil pump to an S&S or Fueling.
Just changed mine to 500, sounds AMAZING, thank a lot guys!
Yikes! 500 must sound killer but you will probably run into issues that low. Be careful.
So the fuel pack you can go right down to 500 ? Cheers
@@jcccd9607 yes you can, but you shouldn't. You'll cause damage to your motor with insufficient oil to the top of the motor.
@@jcccd9607 that’s what I’ve been doing for years now. It sounds great on my bike.
@@jcccd9607 I’m not a science rocket though
Great information, thanks. I understand 900 is the minimum for maintaining oil pressure.
Not true, thunder max has a low idle adjustment for 2011 96ci that allows you to go to high 6's low 7's atleast
I have a 2011 Fatboy lo and plan on ordering a fuelpac soon for decel popping and I was hoping it would allow me to lower rpms too. Thanks for the video and explanation.
Thanks for watching. I hope it was helpful!
You can also take out the baffles and it will idle a hell of a lot lower lol
You do NOT want it to idle under 1k, I set mine to idle at 1100! It takes off smoothly and turns over immediately... They say 900 is the minimum, but it's not the recommended and it's also not 900 on every bike. They say that so that that they are not liable when you screw up the bike and of course Harley is not liable because you modified it without them.
If someone has a FP3 FuelPak then they should find the EXACT tune for the bike, it has a map for every make/model, with every exhaust and even as maps with quiet baffles and without baffles entirely as of last year.
You can do a auto-tune, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have three or four hours minimum to run through every single gear in a wide range of rpm to torque, it's a very precise thing to do a proper tune.
Plain and simple guys you'll hammer out the rods for sure no questions about it. But it sure sounds cool while the engine has very low miles on it ..but don't expect anything close to or over 100,000 miles as by anything around 500 RPM idle that number in engine life expectancy will be cut in half maybe three times before the rods are going clink clink clink sounding like a bucket of bolts.... and today Harley-Davidson allows crankshaft run outs to be in excess of 0.005ths of an inch wobble wobble actually causes the connecting rods to try and do a figure eight while the connecting rods are moving up and down not to mention they tell you to check that out before you install a tighter tolerance higher pressure oil pump on the new twin cams and why the new twin cams and Milwaukee eights single cam but still have a cam chain have dual counter balancers to correct for the imbalance so you don't feel it but it's in there tearing the shit out of things And it's time all you bookworms got your hands dirty and learn how to totally balance and blueprint your Harley-Davidson engine like I can and you can't......to have a totally perfect assembled Harley-Davidson engine that doesn't need any counter balancers at all like all of them from the evolution era and older and being said the evolution engines are the very best Harley-Davidson engines ever produced ever will be produced ever has been produced and ever anything you will ever build with today's technology and we'll have the finest running Harley on the planet as my first one I ever built was the 1968 shovelhead 37 years ago and it's still ripped roaring burning the tires off today by the fourth owner and I should be shot in the head for selling it... As it was a 1968 original paint job Electra glide in blue just like the one in the movie and I sold it for $2,800 bucks so I wouldn't get my dirt bike repossessed by the bank.... And just last year that was 37 years after I owned it the son of the restoration shop asked me what the hell you and his Dad did to it to make it so goddamn fast...and I'm like duuuh it's still running after all these years .. thinking who can make that brag You start with the basic reciprocating assembly and hand fit each roller bearing one at a time until you can line up the crank pin in a straight line with the bearing set around the inner race of the connecting rod until it just barely slides through without hanging up giving you no clearance at all between the connecting rod race and the crank pin but what is called a plug fit it will still turn but won't lock up ... then you got to spend a few miles bringing it up to revs under load while you're riding it to break it in like it used to call for in the Harley-Davidson owner's manual back in the 50s.... So once you get the perfect fitment of your male and female connecting rods to the crank pin you put the crankshaft together with no connecting rods attached at all and go to the ritual with a brass hammer banging on the flywheels of the crankshaft with no rods connected and checking it's run out until you get zero run out no deflection no wobble at all while turning it while the crank is mounted up in a crankshaft run out tool that supports the crankshaft on both ends and with indicators on both main bearing surfaces while turning the crank you don't want to see anything but zero on your dial indicators now it's ready to be sent to precision balance of Indianapolis Indiana where they will weigh to the half a gram what your entire rotating assembly weight to the half a gram is ... Then they will attach a compartment that will hold lead shot to the crankshaft pin and spin balance the crankshaft to the maximum rpm that you require your engine is going to be run at.... Then when you get it all back from the balance shop you take the crankshaft apart and assemble it with the connecting rods attached and go through the ritual again of tapping the flywheels until you get zero run out again on the crankshaft.... And you will find as I did is the best bang for horsepower free cuz you will gain some horsepower over not doing it at all as my friends found out and I found out to my surprise that we all did at the same time when they challenged me to a drag race with my 68 electric light in blue against a 650 triumph Bonneville and a 1976 cb750f Super sport Honda as all three of us took off at the same time and in a quarter mile nobody passed me and I never did set the idle RPMs real low at all but possibly sounding at least a thousand RPMs or more and it sounds like a Honda Shadow as I only used an Andrews low profile "A" grind camshaft smooth running as silk and passed the beer can test setting an open can of beer on the front fender rev it up and it doesn't foam over
How can I make super low 883 sound like a Dyna or fatbob? I hate its sound
I was under the impression that lowering the idle RPM would also lower the oil pressure? Lower oil pressure means that the bike is not getting the lubrication it needs at idle?
It's 100% correct that lowering the idle will lower the oil pressure. However, based on my research, a slight idle drop doesn't lower the oil pressure enough to have negative consequences (I've never had the oil light come on either.) As with any and all modifications, do your own research and make a judgement call if you're comfortable with doing this to your bike.
Check my pinned comment above. In brief, 900 is the minimum to maintain adequate oil pressure according to V&H/ Harley. Thanks for watching!
@@TheJourneyUA-cam That’s about what the Road King standard is from factory is about 900 RPM so no changing for me😁
Daaaang... I'll be doing this ASAP on mine brother! Thank you!!!
Enjoy it!
Thank you, that video was very helpful
Thanx I didn't realize the temp was changing my idle speed.
With my 2-1 exhaust it didn't sound very good, a bit quieter ,more like about to stall out ,but could definitely FEEL the chug. Went back to 1,000 rpm
Sounds great 👍
Hi, thanks for the video. Very informative. I also have a 2017 Iron 883 with the Stage 1 V&H FP3 and I'm about to lower the idle rpm to 900. As it has been 2 years since you've uploaded this video, I assume you have a good view on this mods if it done any harm to your bike. I hope it has not and I can also do it on mine as I just love that low idle. Thanks for your reply.
I haven't seen any negative side effects from doing this. You'll also find that Harley States that you can lower the idle to 900 without any issues, but they say that any lower and you can run into problems. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the info (I'm getting old and forgot haha)
Low looping idles in hot weather will low oil volume will cook your engine in no time
Now THAT sounds like a carbureted Harley
Carburetors and carburetor accessories.
Is the idle adjustment available for early FP3 models? The V&H part # 66007 suits my 2008 Softail.
Any thoughts on putting bits of meat in the oil reservoir during winterization and the added benefits of doing so for people who may be unfamiliar with this method?
Wtf?
@@lifeischeesy just try it
Chris is either a troll or just dumb.
Fries up tender crispy and tasty, never heard of that probably shouldnt use pork I guess, not if you ride a hawg .
@@ronburke it works well. Just try it
I have an FP4, how do I do this then? There’s no option for “map optimization”
I’m thinking of getting an xl883r Efi but I don’t want it to be loud. Any idea if the fuelpak works with the stock exhaust?
It definitely will work. You don't need it with a stock exhaust... unless you want to adjust the idle.
I have a 2021 48, I find a low rpm or low speed the bike is very jerky. not fun to ride, will FP3 help with this,thanks
You could be talking about lugging the motor. If you are, then no FP3 won't help with this. You just need to run a slightly higher RPM and it will smooth out. Personally, I love the sound of running the bike at a very low RPM but I can't for the same reason.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam Not lugging because it is in first gear, have had six harlleys
@@TheJourneyUA-cam EPA?
Mine idles at over 4000 rpms it's got warrenty but they can't fix it
Hey i got the same issue, what did you do to fix it?
@@antonysebastian9860 Vacuum leak good luck with that I gave up and went to the dealership but I believe you can do it with some smoke just find a spot where the smoke gets sucked in somewhere it's not supposed to be sucking from like a hose or something probably close to your air intake
The dealership will give you problem but just keep sending it back again and again they hate me I must have cost them more than by bike was work in all the free labor I made them do on it use that warranty it's there for a reason
Thank you so much, you are thebest^^
900 is my limit lol would like my sportster 1200 custom idle 900
Sometimes it's not just the oil pressure. Bear in mind, rotating mass must keep moving to a certain pace. If it's too low, cracking the throttle from such low RPM's can affect the engine too.
This is a lie, it’ll be fine
You got the regular baffles? the ones that come pre-installed ?
Yes they're the standard baffles. They're quite loud, actually.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam I got the quiet baffles since the day I installed the short shots and i think they are too quiet for me but in afraid of removing the quiet baffles and add the original baffles and then being too loud for my taste, but the only way to find out is to do the swap
The stock baffles are kind of high pitched. So, you should know that before you she'll out the cash for them. I'm considering the DK Customs torque cone inserts. The cones are supposed to improve torque through increased backpressure as well as taking down the high pitch sound of the stock baffles. 🤘
@@TheJourneyUA-cam a nice, thanks for the tip!
I have the short shots with no baffles.Its pretty loud and I don't get bothered by the cops but that would also be because harley's are suppose to be loud lol.
I tried a manuel idle valve which works but mine throws a p0505 idle code which iv orderd a new idle valve because old on flew apart when i turned it off just after 20 miles i suggest any one wants lower idle get the fuel pack
Hi new sub here, I just install 3" reinhart slip on is loud and the idle is high too. Do you think, fp3 will work for my reinhart slip on? Thanks.
If you only installed the slip-ons, you probably don't need to change the tune with the FP3, but yes you still can install the FP3, run the stock map and adjust the idle.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam thank you for reply, i will try
Any Negative side effects ?
Lowering the idle by a few RPM's should be fine from what I've read. I haven't noticed any issues with the bike but if you go too low, you won't have enough oil at the top of the motor and you could experience charging issues. The only negative side effect is that there's a hole in the ozone over my bike because I just let it idle for days. Sounds so good.
I’m going to try it on my 2020 softail standard. But I’m going down to 800 just to hear it. We will see.
Post your results with how it goes. I know the newest Harley's (2021) are rumored to not play nicely with tuners such as the FP3.
The Vance and Hines short shot tune with no baffles does not work with it. The fuel gauge won’t work and there is no back pressure when you turn it over. But it runs well with the standard tune. Not much of a difference in the rpms. I tuned it to 900 but it drops all the way down to 800. Other than that It’s cool. Wouldn’t recommend it on a M8 motor.
@@daughtrymitchell3606 Do you have short shots without baffles? Interesting if that wasn't the best fit. If you DO have that setup, they also assume you are going with a new air intake/ cleaner as well. Without it, I would think that would probably perform similarly (or worse) than stock. Just some thoughts. Either way, thanks for sharing.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam I have short shots with removable baffles. Even if the back pressure issue can be solved getting a new air cleaner, it still wouldn’t fix my digital fuel gauge. Idk. It sound good on the standard short shot tune and the digital fuel gauge works. Maybe a auto tune would be the preferred method because of the stock air cleaner.
@@daughtrymitchell3606 figuring it out is half the fun in my opinion. Rock on. Thanks for watching!
Nice 👍
ever have any issues with running it like that?
Nope. None that I've noticed so far!
Nice bud
I do not recommend this. On later engines, including evos, the correct idle is around 1,000rpm. Book may vary a little away from that. Oil pressure may be a consideration, but another is crankshaft speed. The slower the idle speed, the more the rotational speed varies, with the crank slowing as it reaches each compression cycle, then accelerating after each. Not good for bearings etc!
So keep idle where it belongs! Shovels and old school pans can cope with a slower idle speed because they have heavier flywheels, to keep things smoooooth.
I wouldn't lower the idle.I did and it caused problems with my bike and only changed the values in the dark blue slots.If your bike starts to seem like its choking out when you open the throttle under load riding change it back immediately.keeping the idle low while having this problem will forsure cause damage.like he says these new bikes Idle higher because they are fuel injected and that is for a reason.I do not have any problems with my bike and after changing the idle back it runs fine and smoother so if anyone feels the need to challenge me on this statement go ahead.
900 what i want on my 09 sportster 1200 custom
Great minds think alike.
Mines saying I don’t have permission to change the map
Did you buy/ did they send you the right tuner for your bike? If yes, just call Vance and Hines. I've heard they are helpful to get it working right for you.
I actually figured it out somehow 5 minutes after I commented. Instead of going directly to the Idle RPM option under map optimization, I pressed and held on the map that’s flashed and pressed edit there then ended up finding idle rom through that and it worked.
If it was used fp3 your fucked.
Just change it anyways
Nice iron. I kind of miss mine but I upgraded to a breakout
Thanks. I'd take a breakout! But I won't sell the Iron 🤣
@@TheJourneyUA-cam the iron was just a bit too small for me but I rode it 2 years and it kept its value. Mine had the big radius so I obviously got the same set up on my breakout
I idle my electra glide to what it is supposed to be. You people do what you like. YOU pay for what you screw up. Your choice.
Says I don’t have permission to change map
Is the FP3 attached? The bike isn't running, right? That's weird I've never come across that.
@@TheJourneyUA-cam it’s because he’s editing the stock map.
Just change it anyways
🇺🇸
Never take advice from a sportster owner. 😂
Harley should be ashamed of the exhaust they put on the Iron 883 and Sporty 1200s. An electric motor is louder and sounds better.
True! I think there is a lot of politics that go into the emissions restrictions on these bikes. I know sportster are popular in other countries that have stricter emissions requirements and it probably trickles down to the US models. Let's be honest, NONE of the stock exhaust systems sound good enough to keep IMO! Thanks for watching!
Drop another 100 r’s and really hear what a Harley should sound like.
click click, knock, tick... lol
This harley is still idling way to high. Just sayin' 🤷♂️
I hate when people remind me to subscribe. The only way your channel can grow is by making interesting and good quality videos. Do better videos and stop begging or quit.