If you need a real killswitch just do the same thing as in this video, but splice in the killswitch to the signal wire that goes to the fuel pump. They can jump the starter, push-to-start if it's a manual, heck you can give them the key and as long as that switch is off, no fuel, no start.
Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described. The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch. The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin. This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ... VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
To make this even better you should do that on your ignition coil because here you can still push the car and it could start but on the ignition coil it will never start
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on UA-cam God bless you always my friend
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
This is helpful. My only question is if I’m installing the switch inside somewhere do I run the risk of voltage drop since I’ve added more length to the overall circuit.
@@chriscraft77022 @ thank you. The existing wiring should have enough play to re-route it to hide it in the car. I guess that is my real question. Sorry if a dumb question.
If your horn draws enough current to require 12 gauge wiring, your ignition switch wiring will also need to be upgraded with 12 gauge wiring. Alternatively, what I would do would be to run the line from the cutout switch to a relay which would then provide the necessary current to the horn with a 12 gauge wire.
i apologize, i will get it up as soon as possible.. video just not getting the views.. there is a secret way to wire it up if you dont want to run the hot wire all the way to the horns.. with a relay.. i will try to get it up as soon as possible
@@chriscraft77022 I neeeeeed part 2!!! Preferably explained so a five year old can understand it... electrical stuff is not my strong suit. Please and thanks! Fingers crossed. Toes, too.
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
These were available in parts houses in 50s and 60s but were wired to a slow blow fuse that would allow someone to start car but wouldn't get far. I purchased several and they worked well until I forgot to switch on and burned fuse. No one had replacement fuses so had to use as a kill switch like you have. Never had an incident. I would be concerned about thoroughly upsetting a would be thief with horn and vandalizing my car to "get back at me"
UA-camR: stay tuned for PT.2 showing a hands on example of my diagram ME: looking forward to PT.2 ALSO ME: im not looking forward to pt.2 since its been 4 years in the making
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
Hey Chris, do you have a headliner install video ? I searched with no luck Thank you for all the videos !! You explain things well and offer budget friendly resto options for guys like me !! I'm building a 70 Chevelle now , been binge watching your videos ,hope to see some new Chevelle videos from you soon. !!
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
Always good information. What’s the status of the Chevelle. I have a 70 Chevelle as well and learned a ton from your videos. I just put a 454 in mine, based off how you installed yours. How about a video on rear differentials?!?!
I was going to make one but there is too much liability on setting pinion depth without the special tool... mine already had 3.31 gears and a posi so I didn’t really have to change anything.. I did rebuild it 100% sand blasted all new axles and bearings..rebuilt the posi and shimmed it... Sorry, it was the first thing I restored on the car, actually before I started making videos
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
If you short the solenoid to starter with a screwdriver the starter will turn
On a 70 Chevelle big block car you can’t do that to save your life. maybe this option is not for you
If you need a real killswitch just do the same thing as in this video, but splice in the killswitch to the signal wire that goes to the fuel pump. They can jump the starter, push-to-start if it's a manual, heck you can give them the key and as long as that switch is off, no fuel, no start.
@@jaredd8473 great wisdom bro....Think I will do this
Instead of a horn, wire it to a blasting cap imbedded in C-4.
Wiring a three way switch to the horn is an idea that I have never heard before!
Thank You sir. Just did mine in less than an hour. Any obstacles we can throw at them thief's to slow them down or make it harder for them to steal the vehicles is better than none. Wish I've seen this video years ago where I had my company van stolen with $10,000 worth of tools and equipment in it. They even took the battery.
I never thought about doing a double throw. Stupid simple and genius 👍 thanks man
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described.
The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
My father installed this to his car 50 years ago.
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
Did it work?
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
Why stop at two? Why not have 17 kill switches so if they override the first 16 the last one will stop them?
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
That's a cool idea, so that way. The horn is always ringing when they're trying to crank it.
The horn activation is brilliant!
Years ago I had a 1968 GTO...I just ran a wire from the ignition coil to a toggle kill switch to ground out the ignition. Easy peasy.
Thanks. Hands down best kill switch video
Very good video. Staying tuned in for PART 2!
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
I like crank to beeps horn idea. Loud noise attracts attention. Even in mall parking lot. Great deterrent.
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
Also eager for part 2! Love the vid
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
I like the way you think! I have decoy switches the real switch is hidden.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch.
The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin.
This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
because its a relay youd be fine with using a low amp rated switch right?
Great idea!
My friends and I wired something similar only we used an air horn 😅, it'll scare the hell out of any thief
Man! Thanks for clarifying that double throw. I never understood its purpose. But now I know.
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
How did you do the horn? I bought a second horn and it didn't work.
@@WuestDennisOne terminal of the horn have to be connected to ground in order to complete the circuit.
perfect video... easy, straight to point, clear to understand for noobs like me. Thankyou!
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ...
VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
killing the fuel pump is something a child comes up with
@@chriscraft77022 What would be like if a ignition coil was wired up to the seat
Such a great video, and simple explanation. Doing this to my Jeep Cherokee.
Really looking forward to part 2
Do part 2 pls I really can't wait to see it working xd
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
I would love to see that second part video
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
Really enjoyed that video easy and simple but would like to see the final results on the 2nd video
Wow... I love your idea. Yours is the best video I've seen so far in this topic.. thank you for this... You're awesome.
Awesome, I liked the diagram you used to explain this especially also to the horn!
Brilliant, I will try this but hook up the horn wire to a siren attached in the engine compartment.
Well explained video
Hooking it up the horn! LOL That's brilliant!
I love the idea! Did you ever do part 2 of this video ?
Hey Chris, awesome idea! Do you have a link to Part 2? I can't find it in your video list.
Sadly don't think that he made a part 2 to this. But his diagram is pretty explanatory.
Nice, will this work on a 2022 jeep gladiator with the horn option?
Very simple and a damn good idea.
OMG you're a genius !!!
I’m putting it in today. My 53 Chevy thanks you
Add a relay latching to the horn section, so any unauthorized operation will lead to continuous audible alarm.
Great information. Thank you for the details
Excellent, excellent Idea. Thank you for sharing.
I have soooooo many ideas now!!!!
Good stuff Chris..thanks...p.s..wind blew so hard here a woman had the same baby....twice!
Great idea! I will definitely use this on my Camaro restorations.
Amazing idea. You're a genius
That is f and genius I've already switched it from a single pole single throw to a three-way switch man. Thank you the sir.
Does the switch have to be between the safety switch and the solenoid? I'm confused about what side of the safety switch to install the kill switch
Good stuff Chris. I woulda never thought of that.
To make this even better you should do that on your ignition coil because here you can still push the car and it could start but on the ignition coil it will never start
Will you be doing a part 2? This is an amazing video and I’d love to see part 2.
That’s what I’m waiting for
Someone did it, ua-cam.com/video/vEute6ErHjk/v-deo.html
@@LBZDreamer Thanks. Just checked it out. That’s perfect.
Hey did you find part 2 ?
@@yveshajj4502 No! Does it exist?
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on UA-cam God bless you always my friend
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
I have an old cop car that still has the police siren and I been wanting to use it for something hahaha
Great idea!
I wired mine so if I turn the key it sounds a small speaker alarm, not loud, just a reminder that it is off but I like the idea of making it so if I try cranking it will cause the horn to honk too. Mine is connected to the electric fuel pump and I have carb so the Jeep will start and run for about 30 seconds before the carb runs out of gas.
Nice and straight to the point.
So I did this on my manual truck lol & gotta say I love it 😂
This is helpful. My only question is if I’m installing the switch inside somewhere do I run the risk of voltage drop since I’ve added more length to the overall circuit.
you dont add wire you cut the existing wire to the starter motor and add the switch
@@chriscraft77022 @ thank you. The existing wiring should have enough play to re-route it to hide it in the car. I guess that is my real question. Sorry if a dumb question.
I like the horn thing. Great idea.
where's the 2nd and final video. love to see how it worked out.
If your horn draws enough current to require 12 gauge wiring, your ignition switch wiring will also need to be upgraded with 12 gauge wiring. Alternatively, what I would do would be to run the line from the cutout switch to a relay which would then provide the necessary current to the horn with a 12 gauge wire.
Nice concept did you ever make part 2 of the bonus? I would like to see how you wired it up to the horn
i apologize, i will get it up as soon as possible.. video just not getting the views.. there is a secret way to wire it up if you dont want to run the hot wire all the way to the horns.. with a relay.. i will try to get it up as soon as possible
@@chriscraft77022 I neeeeeed part 2!!! Preferably explained so a five year old can understand it... electrical stuff is not my strong suit. Please and thanks! Fingers crossed. Toes, too.
Yes, part 2 please!
Your video now has over 117,000 views; please add part two! Really liked the first part!🎉
yes! would love to see part 2
Think ya could wire this to a house alarm, or smoke detector? The decibels would be epic!!😆
Excellent - Just what I was thinking!
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)
Bravo.........or u can use the fuse panel......add switch and fuse......simple.......solenoid positive side......cheers
Nice, just what I needed for my chevy;s.
You the man Chris-Thanks for the vid. Cheers.
Simple and brilliant!!
I just finished this and I like it
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
Just wired it up in my old 71 chevy. Works great! Great video and idea
Thanks bro I’m going to do this for skid steer
Thanks for great tip!
Thanks, verry good and simple....
Simple, clear instructions.
Do I how to run a wire all the way down to the starter solenoid or is there some other area up in the engine compartment that I can attach the wire to
These were available in parts houses in 50s and 60s but were wired to a slow blow fuse that would allow someone to start car but wouldn't get far. I purchased several and they worked well until I forgot to switch on and burned fuse. No one had replacement fuses so had to use as a kill switch like you have. Never had an incident. I would be concerned about thoroughly upsetting a would be thief with horn and vandalizing my car to "get back at me"
UA-camR: stay tuned for PT.2 showing a hands on example of my diagram
ME: looking forward to PT.2
ALSO ME: im not looking forward to pt.2 since its been 4 years in the making
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
When are you doing part two
how do you splice into the horn while the horn still works as normal too?
Hey Chris, do you have a headliner install video ? I searched with no luck
Thank you for all the videos !! You explain things well and offer budget friendly resto options for guys like me !! I'm building a 70 Chevelle now , been binge watching your videos ,hope to see some new Chevelle videos from you soon. !!
I got one coming.. I have everything ready to make it but I’ve been trying to fix my house up
@@chriscraft77022 cool !looking forward to it ! I have plenty of other work to keep me busy on the car for the next month or two or 10 lol
Chris my headliner is shot on my gmt800 can I take it out, remove the fabric and spray bed liner on the back board of whatever is called?
This is awesome!!! Thank you so much.
I think they can still put a wrench across the main battery power to the solenoid to start the vehicle.
What happened to part 2?
Does it matter where you install the kill switch such as before or after the neutral safety switch?
Does the horn set up work the same if wiring kill switch to the fuel pump relay?
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
That's a great idea man!
Always good information. What’s the status of the Chevelle. I have a 70 Chevelle as well and learned a ton from your videos. I just put a 454 in mine, based off how you installed yours. How about a video on rear differentials?!?!
I was going to make one but there is too much liability on setting pinion depth without the special tool... mine already had 3.31 gears and a posi so I didn’t really have to change anything.. I did rebuild it 100% sand blasted all new axles and bearings..rebuilt the posi and shimmed it... Sorry, it was the first thing I restored on the car, actually before I started making videos
I completely understand. Keep doing what you brother. I’m going to eventually figure it out.
Does the positive from the ignition go to the positive of the neutral safety switch? Thanks
no
Can I wire the switch from the wiring inside the dash. I have a 98 Jeep Wrangler if I use a multimeter to find the proper wiring can I do it?
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.