No problem. It's a game changer for my forgetful brain haha. If you find Alan Johnson's comment below somewhere, he describes a way he does it where you don't have to trim the spade on the momentary switch.
@@Sensei948 then the circuit is not killed in the process. The switch has the function to kill the current flowing from the induction part to the spark plug. He has 2 cables, one has the load to carry and the other one should go to the mainbody. The switch, in the off position, donst let the spark travel to the spark plug. You could turn maybe the connections of the 2 cables at the switch. And please do that without a chain on the machine not any accidents happen. Cut myself last week dosnt have to happen to you to... good luck
Thanks Ben, I immediately ordered 2 and replaced one on a G372XP and my 394xp. Haha silly me the 394xp is screwed down under the top cover and I broke the old switch prying it out, just need to make a new kill wire with a sideways spade and ground loop for a retro fit. It worked perfectly on both saws.
I heard about this a couple years ago and was told which saw to get the switch off. I order the switch and it was no different. Never messed with it again lol. Nice work.
@@samishsawworks5870 I mean who goes searching for a better kill switch? I think it was just something I stumbled across. I wish there was still more 372s floating around. They seem to be drying up quick.
@@yotaismygame they are going away in a hurry. Well, people aren't selling them anyway. If they're available people want a astronomical amount of money for them. The red versions tend to get overlooked, so I keep my eye out for them, but they aren't that popular up in this area. Probably just don't have the dealer support for them that other areas did/do.
@@samishsawworks5870 I can never find red ones. I got lucky when I picked up my 2065. Truth be told though I rarely hunt for saws anyone. I’m in the middle of a 372 build now and I’m starting to think I under charged for it. Oh well though
Thanks for the video. The switch on my 372 just stopped working so I'll try this. Why would you check to make sure that the brake is off before starting? Instructions from the manufacturer, chainsaw training schools and common sense would tell you to do just the opposite- check to make sure that the brake is ON!
I actually ordered one for my 372 OE from HLS last week, along with a pair of flippy oil/fuel caps. Now I know exactly what it’ll take to install it. Thanks!
Dude I do it all the time, I run a 395 and a T540 top handle saw and one has a momentary kill and the other a click type and about 50% of the time I forget to flip the one on the 395 back to the run position.
Years of sled/atv/small engine wrenching has it burned into my head to return it to the run position after it shuts off. Those switches are sweet though.
Over the years I've gotten into the same habit myself. Too many kill switch related "headaches" early on haha. I'm good on just about everything, but this saw has my number for some reason.
@@samishsawworks5870 I have a small oil leak in the saw 372 xp when it stands under the saw and when I unscrew the oil filler, I can hear a hiss of air what can it be?
@@samishsawworks5870 thanks for the info Ben, but while I'm on the subject of chainsaws what are your honest thoughts and perspectives on Shindaiwa chainsaws, I am looking for a good all around 60cc saw, up here in interior Alaska, one of the reasons I love my Jonsereds over their Husky equivalents is the no frills, not to mention color and feel, I have not taken the autotune plunge cause my saws run in temps as cold as -40 to 80 above, and just dont have any kind of dealer support if it's broke you fix it, I just never cared for the way Stihls felt although they are excellent saws, I have never run an Echo chainsaw, however I couldn't help but notice the no frills switches and overall characteristics that endeared me to my Johnny's, my question is an Echo 620 and a Shindy 600sx are technically the same saw, albeit different colors, as well as the Echo being available in a full wrap version, ditto on the Shindy would it be possible to mate a 620 bar to the Shindy, also you just don't see alot of love for the Shindys on the web, would you consider doing a couple of videos on the 600sx long term tests mods and such excellent videos keep up the good work!
@@annshort7806 I think Echo has always made a great product. Echo/Shindaiwa are excellent saws (their "pro level" designed saws anyway) and even more so if you factor price into the equation. The 620 platform is a great, simplistic, robust saw. I have never owned one but I have ran one and also a 590. I know that echos 590, 600, 620p, etc. notoriously come from the factory set right at the edge of lean, so a first move would be to remove the carb limiting caps and adjust. A must, especially with your temperature/weather fluctuations. With factory limiters in place there would be no where near enough range of travel to keep a safe tune. A muffler mod really helps these saws. Well I can only speak for the 590, but I'm sure the same would apply to the 620. The 620p with full wrap is a nice feature and the echo bar should swap right over no problem. They're the same bar mount, just a different name on the bar. Maybe you were asking about the full wrap from an echo onto the Shindaiwa? With everything else being identical, I see no reason it wouldn't swap right over.
@@samishsawworks5870 Thanks for the good info Ben, I would venture to say that 80% of the folks in our small community use stihls and of that nearly all are your garden variety in. Ms 290s, 271s , nothing really pro level same for the Huskies, While there is absolutely nothing wrong with that, I tend to be the black sheep, and always want to use something different, case in point my Johnny's, and yes that is what I was asking specific to the 620 and 600sx on the full wrap bar, I guess in general, what I wanted to ask is you don't see very many videos on the Shindaiwas, are there any specific reasons for this, does it have to do with dealer network, also if one owned a Shindaiwa, would one be able to get dealer support from Echo, I am leaning 95% on the Shindy, mainly I like the colors, also it's my understanding that it takes a good bit more time for the Echos to truly break in, I just like the simplicity of them, thanks again for the excellent info!
My thumb never leaves the switch unless it's in 'ready' position. When someone else has made a couple cuts with my saw and don't put them back in the on position it really grinds my gears😂
@@davidwyby 537 41 90 - 01 This was one of the best prices I found for OEM www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Husqvarna-Ignition-Stop-Switch-537419001-For-128R-223L-323L-323R-326LX-/274498333735?pageci=9b13c525-7604-4936-b28a-5b562026da54
I buy mine on ebay. Or directly from Husqvarna dealer. Husqvarna part number is 537419001 www.ebay.com/itm/294474268946?hash=item449008c112:g:h9IAAOSwxoBhbdZV
I have some older saws with faulty switches and that's how I do it. You never forget the kill switch that's for sure! I know lots of people who use that method. Thanks for sharing!
Fanfreakingtastic! Ive been running husky’s for 18 years and I’ve never seen or heard of this before. Thank you so much!
No problem. It's a game changer for my forgetful brain haha. If you find Alan Johnson's comment below somewhere, he describes a way he does it where you don't have to trim the spade on the momentary switch.
@@samishsawworks5870 Friend, how best to position the L nozzle on the carburetor?
@@samishsawworks5870 Friend, the saw does not want to turn off after switching the switch ...... What is the maximum speed set for 372 xp oe?
@@Sensei948 then the circuit is not killed in the process. The switch has the function to kill the current flowing from the induction part to the spark plug. He has 2 cables, one has the load to carry and the other one should go to the mainbody.
The switch, in the off position, donst let the spark travel to the spark plug.
You could turn maybe the connections of the 2 cables at the switch. And please do that without a chain on the machine not any accidents happen. Cut myself last week dosnt have to happen to you to...
good luck
@@Sensei948 here made you a clip ua-cam.com/video/oyNSNjkK6A0/v-deo.html
You are not the only one! That’s a slick trick! That’s a nice looking saw!
The 661 has made me so bad at remembering to flip the kill switch to the on position. That’s a useful mod right there
Did that on a few old toggle switch saws. I am with you, forget as often as I do remember.
Thanks Ben, I immediately ordered 2 and replaced one on a G372XP and my 394xp.
Haha silly me the 394xp is screwed down under the top cover and I broke the old switch prying it out, just need to make a new kill wire with a sideways spade and ground loop for a retro fit.
It worked perfectly on both saws.
The T540XP is a good source for these switches as well. I've added them to my Dolmar 79XX series saws as well. Work like a champ!
I heard about this a couple years ago and was told which saw to get the switch off. I order the switch and it was no different. Never messed with it again lol. Nice work.
Ain't that the way it goes sometimes. Dang it anyhow.
Like most things I come across, they've already been done for years before I'm sure. I'm just a little slower than most ;)
@@samishsawworks5870 I mean who goes searching for a better kill switch? I think it was just something I stumbled across. I wish there was still more 372s floating around. They seem to be drying up quick.
@@yotaismygame they are going away in a hurry. Well, people aren't selling them anyway. If they're available people want a astronomical amount of money for them. The red versions tend to get overlooked, so I keep my eye out for them, but they aren't that popular up in this area. Probably just don't have the dealer support for them that other areas did/do.
@@samishsawworks5870 I can never find red ones. I got lucky when I picked up my 2065. Truth be told though I rarely hunt for saws anyone. I’m in the middle of a 372 build now and I’m starting to think I under charged for it. Oh well though
Fantastic up grade !
Thanks for the video. The switch on my 372 just stopped working so I'll try this. Why would you check to make sure that the brake is off before starting? Instructions from the manufacturer, chainsaw training schools and common sense would tell you to do just the opposite- check to make sure that the brake is ON!
thanks for taking the time to create and post this video good hack keep up the good work
You are a damm genius and made my day!
I actually ordered one for my 372 OE from HLS last week, along with a pair of flippy oil/fuel caps. Now I know exactly what it’ll take to install it. Thanks!
how did it work out with the flippedy caps? and which did you order where? My old ones drive me crazy ^^
Husky flip caps > Those damned Stihl flip caps. They’re still threaded with an o-ring seal like God intended.
That will be freaking sweet...🤘🏻👍🏻🪓
🔥🔥🔥
Awesome thank you just got a 372 it floods after to pulls with switch off , I'm doing this.
Who ported your saw? Cut hardwood?
Dude I do it all the time, I run a 395 and a T540 top handle saw and one has a momentary kill and the other a click type and about 50% of the time I forget to flip the one on the 395 back to the run position.
Good to Know, Thanks !
Brilliant 👏
Years of sled/atv/small engine wrenching has it burned into my head to return it to the run position after it shuts off. Those switches are sweet though.
Over the years I've gotten into the same habit myself. Too many kill switch related "headaches" early on haha. I'm good on just about everything, but this saw has my number for some reason.
@@samishsawworks5870 I have a small oil leak in the saw 372 xp when it stands under the saw and when I unscrew the oil filler, I can hear a hiss of air what can it be?
@@samishsawworks5870 is the muffler gasket 372xp needed?
GENIUS
Which way does the 51 switch go to be on or off? Left or right
Stop is to the right (toward the handle) & run is to the left.
G'day mate, love that mod!
Just curious what size bar are you running on the 372?
3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, 32 inch Oregon reduced weight bar
Cheers matey, love it
Awesome will this switch work on my jonsered 2172? My dolmar 7900 has a switch like that I love it, excellent video.
To the best of my knowledge, yes it will. Does the switch in it now look like the original one in this video?
Looked it up, the 372xp and 2172 use the same part # for the original switch, so yes it will work.
@@samishsawworks5870 thanks for the info Ben, but while I'm on the subject of chainsaws what are your honest thoughts and perspectives on Shindaiwa chainsaws, I am looking for a good all around 60cc saw, up here in interior Alaska, one of the reasons I love my Jonsereds over their Husky equivalents is the no frills, not to mention color and feel, I have not taken the autotune plunge cause my saws run in temps as cold as -40 to 80 above, and just dont have any kind of dealer support if it's broke you fix it, I just never cared for the way Stihls felt although they are excellent saws, I have never run an Echo chainsaw, however I couldn't help but notice the no frills switches and overall characteristics that endeared me to my Johnny's, my question is an Echo 620 and a Shindy 600sx are technically the same saw, albeit different colors, as well as the Echo being available in a full wrap version, ditto on the Shindy would it be possible to mate a 620 bar to the Shindy, also you just don't see alot of love for the Shindys on the web, would you consider doing a couple of videos on the 600sx long term tests mods and such excellent videos keep up the good work!
@@annshort7806 I think Echo has always made a great product. Echo/Shindaiwa are excellent saws (their "pro level" designed saws anyway) and even more so if you factor price into the equation. The 620 platform is a great, simplistic, robust saw. I have never owned one but I have ran one and also a 590. I know that echos 590, 600, 620p, etc. notoriously come from the factory set right at the edge of lean, so a first move would be to remove the carb limiting caps and adjust. A must, especially with your temperature/weather fluctuations. With factory limiters in place there would be no where near enough range of travel to keep a safe tune. A muffler mod really helps these saws. Well I can only speak for the 590, but I'm sure the same would apply to the 620. The 620p with full wrap is a nice feature and the echo bar should swap right over no problem. They're the same bar mount, just a different name on the bar. Maybe you were asking about the full wrap from an echo onto the Shindaiwa? With everything else being identical, I see no reason it wouldn't swap right over.
@@samishsawworks5870 Thanks for the good info Ben, I would venture to say that 80% of the folks in our small community use stihls and of that nearly all are your garden variety in. Ms 290s, 271s , nothing really pro level same for the Huskies, While there is absolutely nothing wrong with that, I tend to be the black sheep, and always want to use something different, case in point my Johnny's, and yes that is what I was asking specific to the 620 and 600sx on the full wrap bar, I guess in general, what I wanted to ask is you don't see very many videos on the Shindaiwas, are there any specific reasons for this, does it have to do with dealer network, also if one owned a Shindaiwa, would one be able to get dealer support from Echo, I am leaning 95% on the Shindy, mainly I like the colors, also it's my understanding that it takes a good bit more time for the Echos to truly break in, I just like the simplicity of them, thanks again for the excellent info!
will this switch fit the 288xp lite?
My thumb never leaves the switch unless it's in 'ready' position. When someone else has made a couple cuts with my saw and don't put them back in the on position it really grinds my gears😂
P/n for momentary switch?
It should be in the video, but if not I'll look it up here in bit when I get a chance.
@@samishsawworks5870 no worries I can find it I’m sure
@@davidwyby
537 41 90 - 01
This was one of the best prices I found for OEM
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Husqvarna-Ignition-Stop-Switch-537419001-For-128R-223L-323L-323R-326LX-/274498333735?pageci=9b13c525-7604-4936-b28a-5b562026da54
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏 sorry, forgot my signature
I almost almost didn't recognize you!! ;)
525 LST
525 lst
Cum pot comanda asa buton mulțumesc lai putea trimite tu an România tiasi fi recunoscător
I buy mine on ebay. Or directly from Husqvarna dealer. Husqvarna part number is 537419001
www.ebay.com/itm/294474268946?hash=item449008c112:g:h9IAAOSwxoBhbdZV
I never use my switch I just pull the choke for a sec to kill it
I have some older saws with faulty switches and that's how I do it. You never forget the kill switch that's for sure! I know lots of people who use that method. Thanks for sharing!
@@samishsawworks5870 do you happen to have the part number for that switch?
@@mikekunz2732 537419001