Jack... Thanks... (Jed, not Kristen)... all I can say. Can't tell you how much we arborists depend on you folks who've been a ton longer in the woods than we'll ever be, for a second-hand education on what makes a saw go.
Very good Jack, I like the slightly "fatter" wrap on the 375 and as you pointed out in another video the fact that it is a little taller helps give you more control i.e. more leaverage.
Thanks, Jack. Very interesting, informative, and fun. Your bench talk feels like a professor; stream of thought but very organized and obviously very knowledgeable. I hear a 572xp is coming soon, get your hands on one and do a tear down as soon as you can.
Hey Jack absolutely love the videos. Falling and the saw stuff. I'm a hot rodder myself and can't afford as much car parts as I'd like so I supplement with saws. Killer stuff sir.
Due to fires in California USFS mandates spark arrestor screens, tried their best to pin Moonlight fire on firewood cutter for not having screen. Do you make version of dual ports or have recommendation any muffler upgrade for 372xp that have spark arrestor screens? Winter snows where I live make forest inaccessible for winter cutting. Thanks for great videos and super attention to detail expertise.
Like very much Mr Jack, very interesting, and very informative. I enjoy all your videos pard and I'm really getting into the bench talk episodes even though it's way over my head, there's just something about listening to a guy that knows his craft inside and out (building and cutting with saws) as well as you do. Safe cuttin pard
Thank you, thank you for this video. Hard to find good quality, thorough info on this. I've not been able to get my 372 x-torq to run great. Really makes me miss my old 371 and 72.
nrthrn stncrft Hello. The X-torqs can be made to run well, it just takes a lot of time and, correspondingly, work to get one there. Thanks for watching.
Mine runs great until it's hot then it starts loosing power I have tried all the small fixes sprk plug cleaned carb exhaust screen and it has great compression any suggestions
So can I swap the air horn in my 372 xtorq & get some better flow or will I need to do so more part changing to accommodate that. Id really like to send mine to you for some work. I live in Michigan & the longest bar we usually use is a 24"-28" obviously some guys feel inadequacies & need that 4 footer but uh...yea. mine runs like a bunch of cats in a house fire but im sure your flow tricks would make it absolutely savage. Ill email you the quote I got & see what I can get done. A good woods porting, just under the race saw specification. I use Lucas semi synthetic & recreational fuel.
I did modify the horn on my x torq and it did seem to run better with more power. However I have since gotten rid of that saw and I'm running the 572 xp.
So all this time I thought the modern 372xp was a great saw? But now it seems like all xps are not created equal? So the x-torq version are not great saws after all?
B L hi. Personally, I went away from Husky in the 70/80cc class range after wearing out my true xpws out. Tried a few Dolmars and resurrected an 046. I have figured out the xt version can be made to run similar to the xp saws after a bit of R&D around a year and a half or two ago. So good news there. As they come, funky off the bottom acceleration and a weird, erratic surging coming off of high idle. AND, Husqvarna engineering didn't see fit to keep it svelte compared to the standard xt version. But that's just one man's opinion. Thanks for watching.
question if you install the 51.4 mm cylinder on a original edition 372 50mm will it lose rpm due to the smaller transfers or should the transfers be opened up?
wow that was great info there , never seen such precise comments on saws as you do , my 385 doesn't have that chunky cover as you show ,i never knew it existed , , not that its an issue for me , i dont use a bar longer than a 28 on it
The "big kid" clutch cover was a running change instituted by the factory. One shipment just showed up with saws fitted with the beefed up clutch cover. Kind of like the spool in the starter covers. Thanks for watching.
With all the grinding it looks like you'd have to do to a a strato 372 it'd almost be worth the month buying a piston and cylinder for an earlier 372 just to have something decent to start with. Excellent video again!
Speed and Marine > Mr Munster - It's doable but an expensive proposition, if a guy was to do it right anyway. I can get the X-torq style - stratified charge - saws to run really good as I have been told (yours is the same concept with a few minor design differentials) by their owners. I don't think they can be made to run as strong/great as the pre strato saws, all things being equal, since there are to many direction changes with the flow. That's my 2 cents for what ever it's worth. Thanks for watching.
thanks sir, i cant get enough of your informative bench talk videos as well as the cuttin videos. keep them coming! (as much ur busyness allows) so do you still use the 375 cylinder rather then the xpw?
Hi Jack: Greetings from Galicia (Spain). I've been watching your videos for a long time and I see that you are a very wise person in these matters. I just saw this video, I have a 372 x-torq and wanted to see the differences. Clearly, more restrictive regulations have reduced the quality and performance of current products. You really stress the idea of using an appropriate oil mixture for the x-torq. What mix is appropriate for you? And what oil do you use? Currently I am using the Husqvarna LS +, but when I finish it I will buy the XP, unless you recommend something better. Thank you, master!
Jota hi. I run around 48:1. I have my own blend of mix oil. I would not use the Husky oil, under any circumstance. I would look for the H1-R from Bel-Ray. It is going to be the best option that I now of for any type of 2-cycle engine. It works especially well in the new, smog, sloppy tolerance type engine designs of today. It works equally as well in the old, non smog saws, weedeaters, blowers, etc. Motul makes some good oil for the flatout, fire-breathing type builds. The RoadRace being geared toward a saw type application. With the Off Highway coming 2nd in their lineup. They are not quite as good for the stock saws & general landscaping type equipment imho. Best of luck. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Hi Jack: First of all, thank you very much for your reply. I currently run 50: 1. I was used to my father´s old 65 saw with more than 40 years of forestry and private work, but finally it has broken and it is very difficult to get spare parts. I bought the 372 x-torq recently, it is the first modern saw I have, I wanted the old 372 but for years it has not been marketed in Spain due to environmental restrictions. I have only used 2 liters of Husky oil, the saw is practically new, and it is a stock saw. Why wouldn't you use any Husky oil? Here, regardless of Husqvarna and Stihl oils, the rest are mostly low-quality second-brand oils, speaking of oils specifically intended for saws. The Husky XP has a very good reputation around here, it is not cheap either (€ 25 / liter). If you recommend the H1-R, I buy it, it costs practically the same price. I've heard a lot about Motul, and it supposedly doesn't leave a residue on the engine. But there are several types of 2T oil and I don't know which is the most appropriate. Thank you very much for your help, best of luck to you too.
Jota hi. There are a few videos from 3/4 years ago that show why the hp Husqvarna oil is a bad choice. But that is the US "flavor". I have asked on whether the "rest of the world" version of the hp oil is the same blend. Seems as though it is virtually the same recipe. Motul does not have much of a cleaner component in the additive package (off highway & road race - the only two I'd consider for a saw application) whereas the H1-R does. Motul is for race or heavily modified, higher compression, higher spinning engines - although saw engines qualify on the last criteria. If you had ever seen the internals after a stead diet of the Husky oil - either version - I'm betting that you would throw out your saw gas immediately. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Hi Jack: First of all, thanks again for your detailed reply and sorry for the inconvenience. I've seen a video where you talk about oils and your preferences, and you show the effects of using Husqvarna oils. I have been impressed that such a renowned brand can make such low quality products. Here are 3 Husqvarna oils: HP (mineral oil, about $ 10 / liter), LS + (semi-synthetic oil, about $ 17 / liter) and XP (synthetic oil, about $ 30 / liter). XP has a very good reputation, and at that price ... it should, at least, be a high quality oil. But, after talking to you and watching your videos, I see that it is not like that. I will try the H1-R from Bel-Ray. You've been testing it for a long time and you know a lot more about it. A friend of mine uses it for a Gas-Gas motorcycle and he likes it. Regarding Motul oils, they have another name here (Road Racing and Off Road), that's why they didn't sound familiar to me. I have only used 2 liters of the Husky oil. Do you think it is enough to create some premature damage to the new saw? And changing the subject, here the bars are small (about 18-20 "is the most usual). I want to buy a 24", and I am between the Oregon Power Match and a Tsumura. Any preference? Thank you very much, you are a reference in this. Sorry for the inconvenience and have a good day.
Jota hi. It's not an inconvenience. It would depend upon the use, the jetting, and to a small degree the condition of the chain. My guess is that there will be build-up. My guess is that there will be some wear. How much? That will a direct correlation to the previously mentioned considerations. I'd switch to the H1-R and use the saw as normal. I'd get a Tsumara bar personally. Best of luck.
I have a husqvarna 65.6cc engine for back pack blower how can I get easy power the rev is 7200 max I took the spark arrestor out I know they limit the emissions
Shane hi. Easy? Not sure. It's going to take someone that knows what they are doing tuning wise. Good work isn't cheap so it won't be inexpensive either. Best of luck & thanks for watching.
Joe Wolfe . hello that.s à great question . I belive that the answer is found àt vp fuels ( I can't afford to run m'y saws on such quality products (they sell premix gallons.)
Joe Wolfe Hello. No lead gas. The saw doesn't need it and neither do your lungs. Saws have low cylinder pressures for the most part compared to motorcycles and run well on 95 to 100 octane fuels. Thanks for watching.
hotsaws101 thanks but his question was about oil! I have use stihl premium oil for a long time .switched to there synthetic àt 50:1 smokes but not convinced should I try 60:1 dealer doesn"t Know?
Only problem IS finding some one local to do them..been a year a begged guys try the emails .they don't work then tryed a local or close one he. Got upset and kept saying 90 days then I said ok then he said basicaly no he was to buisy pretty much im not goid enough so screw it ..I'm guna do my own.if it blows up so be it..been trying 2 years have never owned a moded, saw ran saws all my life but owning one moded is not the same..going buy the tools next week..I'll be dead by the time i wait add to that the virus and brainwashing online ..screw it ..love the channel ..though
I'm wondering if you stretch every word like this when your not making a video, ,I love your content but please you don't have to stretch your words ,we're not in kindergarten
TheLouisamite - It's not directed at you... Clearly, I don't do it in every video. Bench talks are a bit on the technical side though. What it is - It's me thinking about (listening to) what is being said. Because a lot of the time there are 2 or 3 other thoughts that are happening, in real time, that you don't get to hear. Gives me time to process, therefore, see if a segway is pertinent, needed, necessary, etc. Thanks for watching.
"Jack's Saw College" Great rundown...I learned something again. Thanks!
Jack... Thanks... (Jed, not Kristen)... all I can say. Can't tell you how much we arborists depend on you folks who've been a ton longer in the woods than we'll ever be, for a second-hand education on what makes a saw go.
Very good Jack, I like the slightly "fatter" wrap on the 375 and as you pointed out in another video the fact that it is a little taller helps give you more control i.e. more leaverage.
Thanks, Jack. Very interesting, informative, and fun. Your bench talk feels like a professor; stream of thought but very organized and obviously very knowledgeable. I hear a 572xp is coming soon, get your hands on one and do a tear down as soon as you can.
Hey Jack absolutely love the videos. Falling and the saw stuff. I'm a hot rodder myself and can't afford as much car parts as I'd like so I supplement with saws. Killer stuff sir.
Due to fires in California USFS mandates spark arrestor screens, tried their best to pin Moonlight fire on firewood cutter for not having screen. Do you make version of dual ports or have recommendation any muffler upgrade for 372xp that have spark arrestor screens? Winter snows where I live make forest inaccessible for winter cutting. Thanks for great videos and super attention to detail expertise.
Like very much Mr Jack, very interesting, and very informative. I enjoy all your videos pard and I'm really getting into the bench talk episodes even though it's way over my head, there's just something about listening to a guy that knows his craft inside and out (building and cutting with saws) as well as you do. Safe cuttin pard
Thank you, thank you for this video. Hard to find good quality, thorough info on this. I've not been able to get my 372 x-torq to run great. Really makes me miss my old 371 and 72.
nrthrn stncrft common complaint
nrthrn stncrft Hello. The X-torqs can be made to run well, it just takes a lot of time and, correspondingly, work to get one there. Thanks for watching.
Mine runs great until it's hot then it starts loosing power I have tried all the small fixes sprk plug cleaned carb exhaust screen and it has great compression any suggestions
@@hotsaws101 ua-cam.com/video/rkoFzuwtbeA/v-deo.html how to fix it ?
I removed the air divider on the inlet horn and now my x torq runs way better more power but uses a little more fuel. awesome trade off.
So can I swap the air horn in my 372 xtorq & get some better flow or will I need to do so more part changing to accommodate that. Id really like to send mine to you for some work. I live in Michigan & the longest bar we usually use is a 24"-28" obviously some guys feel inadequacies & need that 4 footer but uh...yea. mine runs like a bunch of cats in a house fire but im sure your flow tricks would make it absolutely savage. Ill email you the quote I got & see what I can get done. A good woods porting, just under the race saw specification. I use Lucas semi synthetic & recreational fuel.
I did modify the horn on my x torq and it did seem to run better with more power. However I have since gotten rid of that saw and I'm running the 572 xp.
Super job. Answered all my questions. Thanks so much
Solid, deep knowledge. Thank you.
Can I buy one of those custom built exhaust for my 372xp x-torq? I ported and polished my x-torq and it's pretty nasty now. Much better than stock.
So all this time I thought the modern 372xp was a great saw? But now it seems like all xps are not created equal? So the x-torq version are not great saws after all?
B L hi.
Personally, I went away from Husky in the 70/80cc class range after wearing out my true xpws out. Tried a few Dolmars and resurrected an 046.
I have figured out the xt version can be made to run similar to the xp saws after a bit of R&D around a year and a half or two ago. So good news there.
As they come, funky off the bottom acceleration and a weird, erratic surging coming off of high idle.
AND, Husqvarna engineering didn't see fit to keep it svelte compared to the standard xt version.
But that's just one man's opinion.
Thanks for watching.
question if you install the 51.4 mm cylinder on a original edition 372 50mm will it lose rpm due to the smaller transfers or should the transfers be opened up?
Excellent VIDEO
wow that was great info there , never seen such precise comments on saws as you do , my 385 doesn't have that chunky cover as you show ,i never knew it existed , , not that its an issue for me , i dont use a bar longer than a 28 on it
The "big kid" clutch cover was a running change instituted by the factory. One shipment just showed up with saws fitted with the beefed up clutch cover. Kind of like the spool in the starter covers.
Thanks for watching.
With all the grinding it looks like you'd have to do to a a strato 372 it'd almost be worth the month buying a piston and cylinder for an earlier 372 just to have something decent to start with. Excellent video again!
Speed and Marine > Mr Munster - It's doable but an expensive proposition, if a guy was to do it right anyway. I can get the X-torq style - stratified charge - saws to run really good as I have been told (yours is the same concept with a few minor design differentials) by their owners. I don't think they can be made to run as strong/great as the pre strato saws, all things being equal, since there are to many direction changes with the flow. That's my 2 cents for what ever it's worth.
Thanks for watching.
thanks sir, i cant get enough of your informative bench talk videos as well as the cuttin videos. keep them coming! (as much ur busyness allows) so do you still use the 375 cylinder rather then the xpw?
Please suggest a good mix oil to use with the x-torq. Thank you
Jolkrae Remeark hi. The Bel-Ray H1-R would be a great option. Thanks for watching.
Hi Jack: Greetings from Galicia (Spain). I've been watching your videos for a long time and I see that you are a very wise person in these matters. I just saw this video, I have a 372 x-torq and wanted to see the differences. Clearly, more restrictive regulations have reduced the quality and performance of current products. You really stress the idea of using an appropriate oil mixture for the x-torq. What mix is appropriate for you? And what oil do you use? Currently I am using the Husqvarna LS +, but when I finish it I will buy the XP, unless you recommend something better. Thank you, master!
Jota hi.
I run around 48:1.
I have my own blend of mix oil.
I would not use the Husky oil, under any circumstance.
I would look for the H1-R from Bel-Ray. It is going to be the best option that I now of for any type of 2-cycle engine.
It works especially well in the new, smog, sloppy tolerance type engine designs of today.
It works equally as well in the old, non smog saws, weedeaters, blowers, etc.
Motul makes some good oil for the flatout, fire-breathing type builds. The RoadRace being geared toward a saw type application. With the Off Highway coming 2nd in their lineup. They are not quite as good for the stock saws & general landscaping type equipment imho.
Best of luck.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Hi Jack:
First of all, thank you very much for your reply.
I currently run 50: 1.
I was used to my father´s old 65 saw with more than 40 years of forestry and private work, but finally it has broken and it is very difficult to get spare parts. I bought the 372 x-torq recently, it is the first modern saw I have, I wanted the old 372 but for years it has not been marketed in Spain due to environmental restrictions. I have only used 2 liters of Husky oil, the saw is practically new, and it is a stock saw.
Why wouldn't you use any Husky oil? Here, regardless of Husqvarna and Stihl oils, the rest are mostly low-quality second-brand oils, speaking of oils specifically intended for saws. The Husky XP has a very good reputation around here, it is not cheap either (€ 25 / liter). If you recommend the H1-R, I buy it, it costs practically the same price.
I've heard a lot about Motul, and it supposedly doesn't leave a residue on the engine. But there are several types of 2T oil and I don't know which is the most appropriate.
Thank you very much for your help, best of luck to you too.
Jota hi.
There are a few videos from 3/4 years ago that show why the hp Husqvarna oil is a bad choice. But that is the US "flavor". I have asked on whether the "rest of the world" version of the hp oil is the same blend. Seems as though it is virtually the same recipe.
Motul does not have much of a cleaner component in the additive package (off highway & road race - the only two I'd consider for a saw application) whereas the H1-R does. Motul is for race or heavily modified, higher compression, higher spinning engines - although saw engines qualify on the last criteria.
If you had ever seen the internals after a stead diet of the Husky oil - either version - I'm betting that you would throw out your saw gas immediately.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Hi Jack:
First of all, thanks again for your detailed reply and sorry for the inconvenience. I've seen a video where you talk about oils and your preferences, and you show the effects of using Husqvarna oils. I have been impressed that such a renowned brand can make such low quality products.
Here are 3 Husqvarna oils: HP (mineral oil, about $ 10 / liter), LS + (semi-synthetic oil, about $ 17 / liter) and XP (synthetic oil, about $ 30 / liter). XP has a very good reputation, and at that price ... it should, at least, be a high quality oil. But, after talking to you and watching your videos, I see that it is not like that.
I will try the H1-R from Bel-Ray. You've been testing it for a long time and you know a lot more about it. A friend of mine uses it for a Gas-Gas motorcycle and he likes it. Regarding Motul oils, they have another name here (Road Racing and Off Road), that's why they didn't sound familiar to me.
I have only used 2 liters of the Husky oil. Do you think it is enough to create some premature damage to the new saw?
And changing the subject, here the bars are small (about 18-20 "is the most usual). I want to buy a 24", and I am between the Oregon Power Match and a Tsumura. Any preference?
Thank you very much, you are a reference in this.
Sorry for the inconvenience and have a good day.
Jota hi. It's not an inconvenience.
It would depend upon the use, the jetting, and to a small degree the condition of the chain.
My guess is that there will be build-up. My guess is that there will be some wear. How much? That will a direct correlation to the previously mentioned considerations.
I'd switch to the H1-R and use the saw as normal.
I'd get a Tsumara bar personally.
Best of luck.
I have a husqvarna 65.6cc engine for back pack blower how can I get easy power the rev is 7200 max I took the spark arrestor out I know they limit the emissions
Shane hi. Easy? Not sure. It's going to take someone that knows what they are doing tuning wise. Good work isn't cheap so it won't be inexpensive either.
Best of luck & thanks for watching.
great information, good video! thanks
What is the best two cycle oil enjoy your videos
Joe Wolfe . hello that.s à great question . I belive that the answer is found àt vp fuels ( I can't afford to run m'y saws on such quality products (they sell premix gallons.)
Thank you
Joe Wolfe Hello. No lead gas. The saw doesn't need it and neither do your lungs. Saws have low cylinder pressures for the most part compared to motorcycles and run well on 95 to 100 octane fuels. Thanks for watching.
hotsaws101 thanks but his question was about oil! I have use stihl premium oil for a long time .switched to there synthetic àt 50:1 smokes but not convinced should I try 60:1 dealer doesn"t Know?
I belive you have better pump gas in u.s over here stops à 94
I thought the 375 was a concrete saw
I have a MS 460 Stihl... I would like to have work. Could you get in touch with me for prices?
Or Do you have a website?
Dave hello.
My email address is in the description of all but one of the videos posted in the last 6 months.
Thanks for watching.
awesome
Only problem IS finding some one local to do them..been a year a begged guys try the emails .they don't work then tryed a local or close one he. Got upset and kept saying 90 days then I said ok then he said basicaly no he was to buisy pretty much im not goid enough so screw it ..I'm guna do my own.if it blows up so be it..been trying 2 years have never owned a moded, saw ran saws all my life but owning one moded is not the same..going buy the tools next week..I'll be dead by the time i wait add to that the virus and brainwashing online ..screw it ..love the channel ..though
Realy
I'm wondering if you stretch every word like this when your not making a video, ,I love your content but please you don't have to stretch your words ,we're not in kindergarten
TheLouisamite - It's not directed at you...
Clearly, I don't do it in every video. Bench talks are a bit on the technical side though.
What it is -
It's me thinking about (listening to) what is being said. Because a lot of the time there are 2 or 3 other thoughts that are happening, in real time, that you don't get to hear.
Gives me time to process, therefore, see if a segway is pertinent, needed, necessary, etc.
Thanks for watching.