You make a huge effort to show us your work plus filming editing narrating uploading and interacting with your followers Thanks really appreciate your effort
+dookieday1 +1 - Really appreciate the effort you put in Gunny. If you were to take on an apprentice, he or she would be the luckiest apprentice in WA!
The best thing / hardest to learn is when to walk away from a job. Better to come back and do another coat or 2 then getting a run and having the hassle of rubbing back and potentially getting rub throughs in the process. I've always thought the best finishes are the ones that look great straight off the gun.
In the early days of urethane warming the material gave great flow and nullified orange peel. This worked exceptionally well on large truck body panels giving a flat glossy finish and no orange peel
Ive learned many things from this site. Two things Ive been doing for decades...#1 I ensure the car has a good ground from the car to the earth ground, this will prevent the flakes from orienting themselves via polarity. Second, when shooting flake I use a random pattern, skewed from either vertical or horizontal. There is never a "zebra" or clumping, mottling, striped, or flake standing up.
Great tip on the heating in a bucket of water!. One of my old mates from Sydney told me how ,on the 1st day of his apprenticeship he was taught how to paint a car!. ( did i say he was old?) They got a big pan of boiling water and popped a can of black enamel into the water to warm up. He then got a brush and painted the car which he said turned out like glass when it set. Some ideas are new some are reminders of stuff we have forgotten . Many thanks!.
Gunny, Ive just finished refurbing and spraying my alloy wheels using a spray gun for the first time ever! I can honestly say watching loads of your vids on tips and tricks has seriously helped me out big time, especially the lacquering stage as man that stuff is so hard to get right. Thanks again and keep up the awesome vids!!!!
Hey Gunny,I just did my first Flow Coat a week ago. Had a ton of junk come out on a hood I was painting andalso had some severe orange peel. Sanded it all down and threw two more coats of clear on. Worked absolutely perfect!!! Thanks for the guidance Mate!!!
I wish I had your skills painting and with talking for over 13 minutes without ever taking a breath of air in. LOL. In all seriousness, you are very talented! Great Job!
The more I listen to you the better I'm beginning to understand you! I like the way you explain things in a matter of fact manner. I painted my Jag last night, everything went well until the clear! Here's something everyone can benefit from because it can happen to anyone (I think!). Brand new gun (Iwata W400) and I'm liking it a lot, all I did was add a regulator/gauge combo to it. Base and pearl mid coat go on great. Then I get to shooting the clear and, damn, pressure sounds low. Gauge says I have 29 psi with the trigger on, maybe it's just me. As I'm shooting I'm getting a ton of orange peel ... wtf!! Turns out that all the shooting I was doing all night, it must be my little finger was bumping the screw on the damn built-in regulator in the bottom of the gun handle! You know, the one nobody uses because we just crank it all the way open and forget about it! It was nearly off! So I had 29 psi going in but was probably getting only 5 to 10 psi to the trigger! Bottom line, at least 1/2 the car has this horrible orange peel, wet sanding with 1200# on a DA is barely touching it, have no idea how much clear I really have on the car so I'm deathly afraid of cutting through to base. Now I'm wondering if I can flow-coat it a panel or 2 at a time and how bad minor remnants of orange peel will (likely!) show through. Any comments from anyone are welcome to me ... lol, I really need an expert right now!
Been painting for years, not professionally and can get by, but the standards you reach are up there with the experts. I always learn from your vids and I appreciate the effort you put in to make them,many thanks .
We flow coated a 67 Mustang just to fix a few minor flaws in the clear and get rid of some edges of the stripe, turned out WAYYY deeper than I even thought, customer was actually happier with the colour after the reflow. He saw the jams and it looked too light, more clear darkened it just enough!
Tried my first flow coat a month ago. Paint booth kept cutting out leaving dust on the finish. So I sand cut it and tried the flow coat with awesome results. Almost no orange peel. Over did it with the PPG clear a little. So I did need to light sand and buff. It was a two stage clear and I hit it five times. It kept looking better till the last. STILL LOOKS SO GOOD PPG ASKED ME TO SHOW MY CAR AT THEIR CLASS. Thanks To the gunman.
Love your work,,, I used to paint it was years ago!!! I finally built up enough courage to paint the hood and roof on my f150 and also a Nisan frontier truck that my dad used to drive, he passed away last September,, so I want to keep that truck and keep it up ,,, they both turned out better then I expected,,,, now I am going to experiment with candys and flakes,,,, thanks lot for sharing your knowledge with us, you rock 👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
You are such a inspiring person..I have done my engineering in Automotive.. But your videos are awesome keeps inspiring me to get my hands on the paint side of automobile.. ..
This is exactly what I plan to do to my good and trunk kid. I had a lot of trash and started with 1000 grit and now I have scratches that didn't come out after buffing. This should do the trick. Thanks
I must say I've learned a lot from watching and listening to you and also Franky you guy's have to be the best painters on UA-cam thank you for putting these video's out there I've become a better painter because of it
Mr. Gunman, thanks for fulfilling my curiosity on automotive painting! I am a finisher myself however I am involved in furniture and custom cabinetry here in the United States. It's very interesting to see the similar techniques and also the differences between finishing metal vs finishing wood. thanks, Dave.
what an incredible amount of information you've passed along, thanks for making these videos. Beautiful work. Everything I've watched so far has been new to me, and very useful. 👍
simply wow! know that your videos make a strong impact to everyone that watches them. Especialy those begining in trade like me. flow coating as you teach it makes lots of sense. i will be doing this to my 70 chevelle. also i finally know what those tabs on the gallon caps do, lol. no wonder i keep making a mess when i pour into mixing cups, i dindnt know they popped up like that. it was an aaaaaah moment. as always gunny great job and thanks.
Ive done this several times especially on a vehicle that customer wants a deep slick shine. But ive never thought about warming the clear up. Im gonna try that soon.
A color to hide them line's yes black you would have to block a bit more .good job .I'm from old school of painting lacquer paint's. Yes clear is the way to go, it adds depth to any paint job and can hide any scratches on the surface. Dupont paint's are the best in my book plus 3m has a great line of great products.
It came out really good, no fish eyes either ! This arvo prepared front wing and passenger door for basecoatHyundai cape blue metallic, its all masked and ready for paint in the morning, your videos certainly help thanks !!
yo gunman I did notice some ripples where you put that fibre moulding on the edges on the filler work and I am really glad you mentioned it thank you for being so honest
My 2 cents.....i guide coat and wet rub everything via block/hand and never use sanders in the lead up to colours.Never do i use sa sander on clear it always with a block.It saves on cut and buffing if that's required.Saying that i always make the time on my custom work....i appreciate that most people don't have the time for this.My friends always hang shit on me for taking the long way around,but that don't build cars for people all over the World.Your vids are always informative,cheers man
Dude this is great information. I'm in the States and I do detail boats and have done basic gel coat repair but I'm trying to learn how to do molds and more. Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I'm gonna check all your videos. Take care bro. Mike.
" The basecot is going to suck some of the life out of the clear" LOL!! Too true. All the best paint jobs get flow coated, some 2 or 3 times! Noice job!
I have watched a lot of you videos and picked up lots of great technical advice and tips. However unless I missed something, the one thing no one ever talks about which is a huge factor when it comes to laying down a good basecoat and clear coat is the temperature and humidity!!!!! Those factors are going to determine which is the proper activators to use. Especially when it comes to people who are trying to paint in their garage who don't have access to a temperature and humidity controlled booth. A video explaining that would be very beneficial to the home painter.
Thanks Gunman. Very good job with journaling so much. Though not taken as absolute gospel, always insightful, and interesting. Always good to learn, and take notes from others, food for the brain, like traveling. Thank you so much, love your channel!
excellent job, really well done video too. planning on getting on the paint soon! car recently turned 30, it's had the engine sorted now it needs some prettying up to match it!
If you're going to paint that close you need to move faster a lot of clear built up in the corners of the scoop where it met the hood. I could see it in the reflection of overhead light
That’s Awesome dude I’m getting my car painted now for the Autorama in Detroit next year hope it looks like that 💯💯💯💯CLEAN 👀👀👀👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽this was 2018 Autorama 😁😁😁
I know this video is several yrs old but i have a question that i hope you will answer for me? When flow coating clear and say you was gonna flow coat the whole vehicle that you did a complete re-spray would you block it or would you just do it like you did your hood say with just your da? The vehicle im doing i have blocked and all that after the primer stage and all that. So hopefully you will give me your opinion as you do killer work man and keep up the awesome videos man!!!!
Some UA-cam friends suggested I try and use this Flow Coat technique to help fix a problem I have. I put like 4 coats of clear on a hood to try and achieve a WET look, and it did, but it fogged. Do you think sanding it back down the flow coating could remove the fog and bring back the shine? I'd like to not respray the basecoat. Thanks, and Great Vid!
One thing I am not certain about; do you feel it's ok to use a regular, good quality clear for your first two coats, then use some extra high-end super quality for the final session, especially if they're from two different manufacturers?
nice work! what clear coat brand would you recommend, economic yet worth it like the devilbiss sgk spray gun you suggested to me, love the way it sprayed, thanks
Hello. Great vid once again. Cant wait for the next one. Really informative and pro touch. Have you done a vid on those two tone Steel wheels? How did You mask them? Keep up the good work.
Here's how you can get a flow coat and a polished look...without flow coating or polishing. You put your vehicle in the booth and keep the temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. You spray your base on with medium reducer, for coverage. You mix your first coat of clear with a medium reducer and regular hardener. As soon as you finish your first coat of clear...turn the booth temperature down to around 65 degrees...let it sit 20 minutes. This puts it one temperature range below the reducer you used. Spray your final coat of clear on with medium reducer and regular hardener. As soon as you finish your final coat of clear , turn the booth down to about 60 degrees and let it stay there for a couple of hours. This puts it well below the temperature range . What will happen is that at higher temperatures, the base will dry well with little solvent trapped. The first coat of clear will have more solvent in it than usual...but ...it will not be trapped because the final coat of clear will take a long time to harden up, and this will allow all the solvent to come up into the top coat of clear and it will allow it to flow for a long time...up to an hour or even more. ( Old school guys in the 70's and 80's used to try spraying straight reducer over their last coat of acrylic enamel to try and produce this same result.) The result will be a very glossy paint job with no runs and little if any orange peel. I know many people fool around with amounts of reducer...but with this method you are using the right amounts of reducer...but using it's characteristics, time and temperature to your advantage. Work smarter...not harder !
have you ever used 0000 steel wool to get all the dips and orange peel so you don't remove too much of your first coat of clear? I am trying this as a tip. Hope it works out. again nice vid thanks.
Can I be the one to ask a stupid question? I do not paint on a regular basis, however I really enjoy working on my projects. Two years ago I painted a 78 Camaro and attempted a flow coat but I had runs all over the car. Fast forward to less than 10 minutes ago, I'm painting my son's GMC Sierra and the same thing has happened again. The outside temperature was roughly 68° fahrenheit, with almost a matching humidity level. The runs are worse than before. What am I doing wrong? Also, I love your videos, and I've watched this particular one at least a dozen times.
The thing about painting is there's so many variables. You don't want the paint too thick or thin, temperature will affect viscosity. Also spray gun settings will play a big part, if pressure is too low the paint will go on thick and lead to runs. You can also try turning the fluid knob in. I apologize for not being able to say much more without seeing you spray.
Question on flocoating Gunni, I have a 2004 Mercedes C220 Coupe the paint is brilliant for her age, however I have a lot of stone chips which I have been filling over time, will I get away with just flocoating the whole car after the chips are sorted or would it be better to repaint the hood from scratch? Loving your channel buddy btw 😜😜
Still referring back to your video's 7 yrs later, invaluable resource.
You make a huge effort to show us your work plus filming editing narrating uploading and interacting with your followers Thanks really appreciate your effort
+dookieday1 +1 - Really appreciate the effort you put in Gunny. If you were to take on an apprentice, he or she would be the luckiest apprentice in WA!
The best thing / hardest to learn is when to walk away from a job. Better to come back and do another coat or 2 then getting a run and having the hassle of rubbing back and potentially getting rub throughs in the process.
I've always thought the best finishes are the ones that look great straight off the gun.
In the early days of urethane warming the material gave great flow and nullified orange peel. This worked exceptionally well on large truck body panels giving a flat glossy finish and no orange peel
Ive learned many things from this site. Two things Ive been doing for decades...#1 I ensure the car has a good ground from the car to the earth ground, this will prevent the flakes from orienting themselves via polarity. Second, when shooting flake I use a random pattern, skewed from either vertical or horizontal. There is never a "zebra" or clumping, mottling, striped, or flake standing up.
Over the years I've learned so much from you, can't say thanks enough.
Great tip on the heating in a bucket of water!. One of my old mates from Sydney told me how ,on the 1st day of his apprenticeship he was taught how to paint a car!. ( did i say he was old?) They got a big pan of boiling water and popped a can of black enamel into the water to warm up. He then got a brush and painted the car which he said turned out like glass when it set. Some ideas are new some are reminders of stuff we have forgotten . Many thanks!.
Thank you, think I'll flow coat tomorrow
DUDE thanks for CLEARING that up for me.
Gunny, Ive just finished refurbing and spraying my alloy wheels using a spray gun for the first time ever! I can honestly say watching loads of your vids on tips and tricks has seriously helped me out big time, especially the lacquering stage as man that stuff is so hard to get right. Thanks again and keep up the awesome vids!!!!
Cheers mate, glad they've helped.
Hey Gunny,I just did my first Flow Coat a week ago. Had a ton of junk come out on a hood I was painting andalso had some severe orange peel. Sanded it all down and threw two more coats of clear on. Worked absolutely perfect!!! Thanks for the guidance Mate!!!
I just got to say that is a BADASS hood! And I finally know what Flowcoating is. Thanks!
No problem man thanks for watching.
I wish I had your skills painting and with talking for over 13 minutes without ever taking a breath of air in. LOL. In all seriousness, you are very talented! Great Job!
The more I listen to you the better I'm beginning to understand you! I like the way you explain things in a matter of fact manner.
I painted my Jag last night, everything went well until the clear! Here's something everyone can benefit from because it can happen to anyone (I think!). Brand new gun (Iwata W400) and I'm liking it a lot, all I did was add a regulator/gauge combo to it. Base and pearl mid coat go on great. Then I get to shooting the clear and, damn, pressure sounds low. Gauge says I have 29 psi with the trigger on, maybe it's just me. As I'm shooting I'm getting a ton of orange peel ... wtf!! Turns out that all the shooting I was doing all night, it must be my little finger was bumping the screw on the damn built-in regulator in the bottom of the gun handle! You know, the one nobody uses because we just crank it all the way open and forget about it! It was nearly off! So I had 29 psi going in but was probably getting only 5 to 10 psi to the trigger!
Bottom line, at least 1/2 the car has this horrible orange peel, wet sanding with 1200# on a DA is barely touching it, have no idea how much clear I really have on the car so I'm deathly afraid of cutting through to base. Now I'm wondering if I can flow-coat it a panel or 2 at a time and how bad minor remnants of orange peel will (likely!) show through. Any comments from anyone are welcome to me ... lol, I really need an expert right now!
Been painting for years, not professionally and can get by, but the standards you reach are up there with the experts. I always learn from your vids and I appreciate the effort you put in to make them,many thanks .
We flow coated a 67 Mustang just to fix a few minor flaws in the clear and get rid of some edges of the stripe, turned out WAYYY deeper than I even thought, customer was actually happier with the colour after the reflow. He saw the jams and it looked too light, more clear darkened it just enough!
Tried my first flow coat a month ago. Paint booth kept cutting out leaving dust on the finish. So I sand cut it and tried the flow coat with awesome results. Almost no orange peel. Over did it with the PPG clear a little. So I did need to light sand and buff. It was a two stage clear and I hit it five times. It kept looking better till the last. STILL LOOKS SO GOOD PPG ASKED ME TO SHOW MY CAR AT THEIR CLASS. Thanks To the gunman.
I was going to buff my clear coat but this is a hell of a lot easier and will look so much nicer. Thanks for the info brother.
Love your work,,, I used to paint it was years ago!!! I finally built up enough courage to paint the hood and roof on my f150 and also a Nisan frontier truck that my dad used to drive, he passed away last September,, so I want to keep that truck and keep it up ,,, they both turned out better then I expected,,,, now I am going to experiment with candys and flakes,,,, thanks lot for sharing your knowledge with us, you rock 👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
You are such a inspiring person..I have done my engineering in Automotive.. But your videos are awesome keeps inspiring me to get my hands on the paint side of automobile.. ..
Great to hear
I have almost no interest in spray paint, but for some reason I find your videos relaxing to watch. You’re the Bob Ross of Spray Paint.
Enjoy these a lot, newbie and I'll never work hard enough to get to this level. Love watching your easy to listen to vids mate..
This is exactly what I plan to do to my good and trunk kid. I had a lot of trash and started with 1000 grit and now I have scratches that didn't come out after buffing. This should do the trick. Thanks
I have been a body man for 12 years , berly star painting one year ago your videos help alot gracias amigo :)
Glad they do, thanks for watching
I must say I've learned a lot from watching and listening to you and also Franky you guy's have to be the best painters on UA-cam thank you for putting these video's out there I've become a better painter because of it
Mr. Gunman, thanks for fulfilling my curiosity on automotive painting! I am a finisher myself however I am involved in furniture and custom cabinetry here in the United States. It's very interesting to see the similar techniques and also the differences between finishing metal vs finishing wood. thanks, Dave.
I like your focus on climate. It is an issue with house painting also especially when lacquer of built in cabinetry.
what an incredible amount of information you've passed along, thanks for making these videos. Beautiful work. Everything I've watched so far has been new to me, and very useful. 👍
simply wow! know that your videos make a strong impact to everyone that watches them. Especialy those begining in trade like me. flow coating as you teach it makes lots of sense. i will be doing this to my 70 chevelle. also i finally know what those tabs on the gallon caps do, lol. no wonder i keep making a mess when i pour into mixing cups, i dindnt know they popped up like that. it was an aaaaaah moment. as always gunny great job and thanks.
New bee!
Ive done this several times especially on a vehicle that customer wants a deep slick shine. But ive never thought about warming the clear up. Im gonna try that soon.
A color to hide them line's yes black you would have to block a bit more .good job .I'm from old school of painting lacquer paint's. Yes clear is the way to go, it adds depth to any paint job and can hide any scratches on the surface. Dupont paint's are the best in my book plus 3m has a great line of great products.
Cool bro! thanks for the lesson. Good explanation of what flow coating is and how to do it well. Respect!
It came out really good, no fish eyes either ! This arvo prepared front wing and passenger door for basecoatHyundai cape blue metallic, its all masked and ready for paint in the morning, your videos certainly help thanks !!
Good to hear man.
Great job, you make it look so easy. Keep the videos coming so us spray dummies can learn more.
It is pretty easy after all if you know how paint works.
yo gunman I did notice some ripples where you put that fibre moulding on the edges on the filler work and I am really glad you mentioned it thank you for being so honest
My 2 cents.....i guide coat and wet rub everything via block/hand and never use sanders in the lead up to colours.Never do i use sa sander on clear it always with a block.It saves on cut and buffing if that's required.Saying that i always make the time on my custom work....i appreciate that most people don't have the time for this.My friends always hang shit on me for taking the long way around,but that don't build cars for people all over the World.Your vids are always informative,cheers man
I always scuff the base coat to nib down any particals and also get that flatter finish for your choice of clear.
Dude this is great information. I'm in the States and I do detail boats and have done basic gel coat repair but I'm trying to learn how to do molds and more. Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I'm gonna check all your videos. Take care bro. Mike.
Fine job!! You gave me an idea putting the clear and activator in a bucket of ice during the hot summers. Thank you.
I would only do that if the paint was too thin due to the heat but it would definitely work to thicken the clear up.
@@TheGunmanChannel
I see. Thanks for the tip. Than I shall stay with the golden rule of activator choices and reducers.
Yes, that's what I'd recommend
" The basecot is going to suck some of the life out of the clear" LOL!! Too true. All the best paint jobs get flow coated, some 2 or 3 times! Noice job!
yes we are still enjoying this still thanks
ty last time i heard prepsol was in 77 in autobody shopbut as usual you put a video up and i gave it a thumbs up
I got nervous when I saw you using the air sander on the Curved parts when sanding the clear. Looks great man!
I have watched a lot of you videos and picked up lots of great technical advice and tips. However unless I missed something, the one thing no one ever talks about which is a huge factor when it comes to laying down a good basecoat and clear coat is the temperature and humidity!!!!! Those factors are going to determine which is the proper activators to use. Especially when it comes to people who are trying to paint in their garage who don't have access to a temperature and humidity controlled booth. A video explaining that would be very beneficial to the home painter.
Thanks Gunman. Very good job with journaling so much. Though not taken as absolute gospel, always insightful, and interesting. Always good to learn, and take notes from others, food for the brain, like traveling. Thank you so much, love your channel!
solid video mate. Keep them coming. Great stuff.
excellent job, really well done video too. planning on getting on the paint soon! car recently turned 30, it's had the engine sorted now it needs some prettying up to match it!
If you're going to paint that close you need to move faster a lot of clear built up in the corners of the scoop where it met the hood. I could see it in the reflection of overhead light
That’s Awesome dude I’m getting my car painted now for the Autorama in Detroit next year hope it looks like that 💯💯💯💯CLEAN 👀👀👀👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽this was 2018 Autorama 😁😁😁
Great tips all through the video ! Super gloss ! Thanks Gunman !
Thanks for sharing your trade and skills
That exact same problem w the fan adjustment bit me right in the ass not even three weeks ago. It was with base too, so that was a lot of fun
That's a pretty sweet job! Came out very nice.
Great Videos and THANK YOU for taking the time to make them and sharing your expertise.
Thanks for another great lesson Gunman ... really appreciate it...
Great video thanks for sharing your knowledge 🇦🇺
Best intro ever
Stunning finish 👍
Gunman, nice tips on the temperature. Great vid. ps: thanks for no crappy music.
Always great videos to watch. I was wondering what's the reason for keeping the clear and hardener in a bucket of water tks.
Nice work Gunny!
fantastic gunman Im learning tons thanks vv much
Having an early morning start in my garage ! Going to do a flow coat on my car roof, if its half as good as yours ill be happy !
How did you go man.
Love HS clear
Thank you so much for this great job and very educational.
Dude you are the complete tear and glare show us your all trainer! I like it""
It looks totally amazing
Excellent explanations. Thanks!
FANTASTIC VIDEO!!
Awesome job, well done!
sata jet 4000 bad ass gun!
I know this video is several yrs old but i have a question that i hope you will answer for me? When flow coating clear and say you was gonna flow coat the whole vehicle that you did a complete re-spray would you block it or would you just do it like you did your hood say with just your da? The vehicle im doing i have blocked and all that after the primer stage and all that. So hopefully you will give me your opinion as you do killer work man and keep up the awesome videos man!!!!
🤙 thank you for sharing this information
I'm glad I found your video I learned alot thanks
I hate using Sata's because of the fan adjustment. I know they spray really good, but I'm a Devilbiss fan boy.
My Sata now collects dust. Went with IWATA and have never looked back.
Great work love to see that
Nice job.
Damm! that finish. Cool vid bro, i have to try this shit!
Brilliant fantastic love it cheers larry in London
Thank you, you answered alot for me again, very good.
Some UA-cam friends suggested I try and use this Flow Coat technique to help fix a problem I have. I put like 4 coats of clear on a hood to try and achieve a WET look, and it did, but it fogged. Do you think sanding it back down the flow coating could remove the fog and bring back the shine? I'd like to not respray the basecoat. Thanks, and Great Vid!
YOU DA MAN GUNMAN!
+Catso Mann 🍻👊
One thing I am not certain about; do you feel it's ok to use a regular, good quality clear for your first two coats, then use some extra high-end super quality for the final session, especially if they're from two different manufacturers?
Nice instructional video.
U
DA
MAN!!!!!!! 🤙🏼
nice work! what clear coat brand would you recommend, economic yet worth it like the devilbiss sgk spray gun you suggested to me, love the way it sprayed, thanks
Gun man u are the man chur my anzac brother
👌👊
Hello. Great vid once again. Cant wait for the next one. Really informative and pro touch. Have you done a vid on those two tone Steel wheels? How did You mask them? Keep up the good work.
Hey I love your work. Wondering if you could tell us the is bar compare to psi.
Great job! i was wondering how come that you used normal putty and not fiberglass putty at the joints between the metal and fiberglass?
Waw! Well done!
Lots of work with this hood.
Good video can you even flow coat with a 2 k rattle can ? Probably have to 75 percent over flow ?
Here's how you can get a flow coat and a polished look...without flow coating or polishing. You put your vehicle in the booth and keep the temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. You spray your base on with medium reducer, for coverage. You mix your first coat of clear with a medium reducer and regular hardener. As soon as you finish your first coat of clear...turn the booth temperature down to around 65 degrees...let it sit 20 minutes. This puts it one temperature range below the reducer you used. Spray your final coat of clear on with medium reducer and regular hardener. As soon as you finish your final coat of clear , turn the booth down to about 60 degrees and let it stay there for a couple of hours. This puts it well below the temperature range . What will happen is that at higher temperatures, the base will dry well with little solvent trapped. The first coat of clear will have more solvent in it than usual...but ...it will not be trapped because the final coat of clear will take a long time to harden up, and this will allow all the solvent to come up into the top coat of clear and it will allow it to flow for a long time...up to an hour or even more. ( Old school guys in the 70's and 80's used to try spraying straight reducer over their last coat of acrylic enamel to try and produce this same result.) The result will be a very glossy paint job with no runs and little if any orange peel. I know many people fool around with amounts of reducer...but with this method you are using the right amounts of reducer...but using it's characteristics, time and temperature to your advantage. Work smarter...not harder !
another awesome video thanks
have you ever used 0000 steel wool to get all the dips and orange peel so you don't remove too much of your first coat of clear?
I am trying this as a tip. Hope it works out. again nice vid thanks.
More coats of clear will also change colour of panel.. Especially on silvers
I love your videos
Thanks for another good vid...with show car/ flow coats do they normally polish after the flow coat? ...looks great by the way.
Can I be the one to ask a stupid question? I do not paint on a regular basis, however I really enjoy working on my projects. Two years ago I painted a 78 Camaro and attempted a flow coat but I had runs all over the car. Fast forward to less than 10 minutes ago, I'm painting my son's GMC Sierra and the same thing has happened again. The outside temperature was roughly 68° fahrenheit, with almost a matching humidity level. The runs are worse than before. What am I doing wrong? Also, I love your videos, and I've watched this particular one at least a dozen times.
The thing about painting is there's so many variables. You don't want the paint too thick or thin, temperature will affect viscosity. Also spray gun settings will play a big part, if pressure is too low the paint will go on thick and lead to runs. You can also try turning the fluid knob in. I apologize for not being able to say much more without seeing you spray.
No polishing. I love it.
Question on flocoating Gunni, I have a 2004 Mercedes C220 Coupe the paint is brilliant for her age, however I have a lot of stone chips which I have been filling over time, will I get away with just flocoating the whole car after the chips are sorted or would it be better to repaint the hood from scratch? Loving your channel buddy btw 😜😜