How To Flow Coat A Car After Paint - What Is Flow Coating?
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
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Oh brother, you’re gifted by God. Your degree of craftsmanship is out of this world. In top of that you have the rear ability to transmit your knowledge with excellence. God bless you and may He give you much health to continue your journey for many years to come.
Great tutorial on Flow Coating. I’m always picking up tips from you Pharraway 🤝
Thank You brother
Beautiful
Family thank you for this flow coating is an art and you broke down the details to make the results amazing
Holy crap, that looks like glass. Amazing results, you are obviously at the top of your game.
the reducer was the secret I needed and forgot. thank you, will try that on the next car
Wow! I’ve never seen a trigger actuated light mounted on a spray gun. Very cool. Thanks for your information!
That’s sweet, texture, smooth as glass and perfect! Flow coat is what I like, awesome results!
16 on first door and 18 on second door . But it looks great im going to try this ,but mine looks like this when I'm done because I wet sand every coat until the clear .
Like glass...lots of work..Good job brother...
I don’t know squat about auto painting, but this looks amazing!
I do motorcycle paint, and for the last 20 years I have been using polyurethane from the base coats & up.
I love painting it, and it is far more durable than acrylic urethane!
I can tell you love what you do n have integrity in your work! That’s what make you a master at it! Thanks for teching us brother!
Wow, I think you've done this before. Beautiful job.
I understand hanging the doors for base coat color,but to reclear i will always spray horizontal if possible and it will have less orange peel than hanging, always
I used to do this on custom motorcycles and helmets using 2K acrylic - but I'd flow coat as soon as the first coats were set enough to sand, usually the following day rather than waiting a week. I think you get a better bond of the flow coat if the previous ones are still a bit fresh.
You got the painting down to a art nice work brother
That’s awesome and makes sense over buffing.
5 coats of clear! That's what I like to see. Most bodyshops tend to use 1.5- 2 coats which I think is ridiculous
Most bodyshops only tend to fix collision work on late model cars. They have no intention of cut and buffing, plus they want the texture to match the factory texture. The whole intention is to make the car looked like it was never in an accident... When I do restorations, I'll put at least three coats on, depending on how the clear flows out. I cut and buff all of my jobs. I've yet to spray a car without getting a bug or some garbage in the paint.
2 coats of clear are industry standards.
More than 2 coats can cause die back and unnessasary buffing when working on collision insurance jobs
@fredthompson2846 i agree but some custom projects I've seen 3+ coats of clear so that they can wet sand, flow coat or cut and polish.
That’s the amount they come with from the factory.
CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
Welcome to the glassworks! That is a great job, excellent workmanship!
You have amazing skills painting vehicles. Thank you for the videos!
Awesome work carnal, you and SprayWay get down hard when it comes to yalls jale. Shout out from Clayton North Carolina
Beautiful work! (As usual!)
I use to do 3 coats of clear when doing stripes, then wet sand with 600 the next day then 3 more coats of clear. Now I can get the same results with 4 coats at once.
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Much respect for those that Share Knowledge rather than Keep it. God Bless you too👊🙏
Looks awesome! I had to cut and buff my DIY paint job. Never want to do that again. Looking forward to trying to duplicate your technique. Knowing how is the first step, followed by proper execution (I hope).
Top job always from your magic hands brother! Regards from Greece!😊
Another great job & tutorial my brother.
Looks perfect from here. Great job.
Hey...you don't have to do a flow coat that way...that's too much work. You can flow coat on your last coat of clear when you paint...but you need a booth . What you do is spray your base coat using the right reducer (if you are not using waterborne ) , then spray your first coat of clear with the right reducer for the temp. Let it flash off for a good twenty or thirty minutes. Spray a second coat, same reducer, same flash off time. Spray a final coat but use a reducer for a higher temperature...and it will flow out like glass.
Agree. I paint in a restoration shop and every job is a complete and this technique is unrealistic when you are using $1200/gal. kit of Glasurit 923-255 clear. I use my last coat(I put 5 coats on btw) exactly as you explained. Sand/buff starting with 800 up to Trizact 3000. Aside from not being realistic for completes, in any busy reputable collision shop...the job had to be finished yesterday and delivered. No insurance company is going to pay for a rental car for the customer while you re-clear something, thats more time and money. Personal projects wheres you are spending your money and your own time, its a matter of preference. If I looked at my boss and said I need to spend a week re-prepping a body and every panel to re-clear, I would not have a job anymore. After 22yrs of painting cars, Im expected to deliver on the first shot.
Great work...nice and clean
Awesome as all of your videos,, thank you for taking the time to make them and share them.
Anytime brother 🙏
Awesome information and thank you incredibly awesome finish on these doors.
I think I'd still buff it... When you were panning the camera across the finished panels, it looked like I could see a few specs of dirt/dust that got caught in those final clear sprays.
Nice job. Thank you for sharing and teaching. Kind regards.
Like glass , nice job
Summer time is fleeting, not relaxing but working on repairs. Question; was the same clear used on 1, 2 & 3? Some say inter-coat is required before top coating with high solids because it will cause ghosting and other unpleasant results. Inter-coat is common to graphics, strips and many other color issues including vinyl decals under clear. I am learning as I feel you are one of the best!
DK, ASE master tech, retired! Thank you so much!
Awesome thanks man watching you has helped me out alot......
Looks amazing.
Wow! Fantastic job mate 👏
Another great video👍 I always think it’s too hot in my garage to paint in Florida, but it’s actually cooler than yours by a few degrees!
Looks great…Love it
Great job. Interesting application. Keep it up.
Beautiful work
Thanks, in all the painting I've done (many years) I always wet sanded, buffed, I'll try your way. Thanks again
Great video again brother!
Beautiful indeed!
As always, excellent 👌 😎
Nice job 👍
This is the proper way to get a glass finish & get rid of orange peel. Cut & buff removes clear & the uv protection. You cant guarentee how much clear you cut off. Different edges might almost cut through, then youre clear eventually fails. This is the same amount of work as cut n buff, or less imo.. i dont buff, my job comes out great or i flow coat it.
I find it kind of funny that this is "flow coating" because it never used to be done this way. And I'm not saying this is wrong, obviously the result speaks for itself. Back in the days when single stage acrylic urethane ruled the world ( mid 70's to mid 80's) , a painter would pound on three coats of single stage with a gun that had a 14" x 4" spray pattern ( less passes, less dirt, less painter fatigue, less mottling ...more paint use! LOL!), and after the last coat sat about ten minutes, the painter would take almost straight reducer and spray a coat on the vehicle, which was very tricky with metallics, but a slam dunk with solid colours. The additional reducer would soften up the last coat and re-flow it all like glass without solvent popping because the solvent was just on top of the paint. You could also do this using a wet last coat but a drop in temperature in the booth into a lower temp range as you start your last coat. I have no clue if this would work with modern low voc clear coats...but I know a drop in temp in the booth will do it. Back in the day, if you had to buff anything you were considered a third rate painter LOL!
Perfect work ethic.
Steve again. I waked your video again and listened better about your description about number of coats. Drying time I still question.
Again thanks, Steve
Looks great, bro!
Man! That’s awesome!
Thanks for the info ❤💯💪
Very nice as usual
Painter for 40 years and I would never do that. The best way in my opinion is to wet sand with 1500 or. 2000 wet and dry and then polish up with a polisher. Your 600 on a sander is way too coarse and you could go through the clear. Nothing wrong with your method, both methods get the same result. Good job though man.
That's a beautiful paint job. Back in 1996 _ 1997 I was rebuilding a 1980 Suzuki a GS1000ET and got a quote of $1,200 to paint a five gallon fuel tank, to small side covers, a small tail section and a small fairing. The painter said he wet sanded after every coat of paint and clear. That was way more than I wanted to spend so I went somewhere else. He didn't call it flow coat.
As a retired body man/painter I have noticed that people on You Tube always way overdo everything. They prime too much, they sand too much, they clear coat too much...and they buff too much. The goal is to do just enough to produce a high quality result.That comes with years of experience using the same products, the same process and using the same equipment over and over again so you know your parameters of operation.. Take your bike for example...a good painter would have just painted and clear coated...and sanded and polished the last coat if he had to. He was trying to justify the money you're gonna pay...and how could you tell he was sanding between coats? Many people are awestruck by the You Tube auto body / painting content...but then they have no experience to judge whether what they are seeing is good or bad. .
Nice work
Thanks again!!!!
Perfection 👌🏻
Great job
Beautiful.
really great job.....thanks .
Damn fine job!
Amazing!
Thats Great Ty !
Nice work.
Awesome!! Thank you God Bless
Crazy 🤩 Nice
Im surprised you didn't wetsand the panels? But, it looks like it totally works for you. I have an older school lumina gun light. Im 11:32 know they have a #3 now. Trigger activated. That's cool!loved the video!
beautiful
It does need a buff. Still some imperfections that showed up on camera to clean up. Way better than having to buff from the orange peel clear coat before tho
Oh got you. It’s churched up cut and buff.
We used to do this with hardened enamel. Shoot it ,wet sand it, clean it, re- shoot . Glass !!!!
thank you
Amazing job, I wish I knew how to paint car/parts, my car's trunk was painted black by previous owner and it sucks. But well cheers from McAllen,Tx/956. Subscribed to ur channel.
Awesome from the 956
Amazing
Thanks.for.showing
It looks good but i can defenatly see some particles in it, this will still need to be sanded and buff right?
NICE!!!
Amazing results!!🎯💦🎯💦🎯💦🎯
✨nice 🤩
Have those doors looking better than the Top Gun sunglasses 😎😎 😅
Hi, great work! Is it possible to sand with 1200 grit instead of 600 grit and then apply the flow coat reduced at 10%, without having future problems of flaking of the last 2 layers applied? In other words, does sanding the previous three layers of clear coat with a p1200 guarantee the right mechanical adhesion to the new two layers? Many thanks!
mmm..very nice!
Nice!!!!!!
Great video! Subscribed. However, during your opening, the animated gorilla sprays paint from the wrong end of the gun😂
😆
Get enough coats, sand out orage peel... Shoot two coats clear, let set to proper time, then thin down clear... Shoot a hot heavy coat, and your done. No buffing. Ive done it with black HOK paint.
WOW !
same way I do guitar bodies and necks, didn't know it had a name I thought it was just how it was done? lacquers anyways, all those polys and acrylics you can just sand buff and polish those without clear if ya want to, depends how deep you want it to look I spose? but lacquer I always clear a few coats of lacquer over, sand down to at least 1200 then clear over 2-3 coats if its uneven or not right I might sand polish to 4500 but usually its good to go, wax on wax off
Hi Brother, as Always your workmanship is outstanding, also enjoy your projects.
For the flow coat on both doors, being it was 95*, using slow hardener, 1.3 tip, did you used 5% or 10 % reducer, what was your air pressure set at?
Thanks
29PSI
Wouldnt it be the same effort to add an extra layer or 2 of clear during initial painting and just cut n buff?
Hey Chris do you bump up the pressure at the tip when you’re flow coating? Another great video!!
no I stayed at 29psi
Question, Do you change the pressure at the gun when flow coating? Higher pressure, Lower pressure or the same as when you spray the initial coat of clear? And my reasoning behind the question is because of the addition of the 10% reducer.
I use the same pressure 29psi
@@PHARRAWAY Thanks for the reply!
Looks awesome brother
Looks great man, when can I bring my car over😊. Just kidding I'm going to take your advice though try it on mine
🔥🔥🔥
What brand DA are you using? Ty for another slick video!
www.vicrez.com/vicrez-6-in-low-vibration-palm-air-sander-vzt146
Great video. I have two questions, did these doors have base coat and clear coat before you started the Flow Coating ? And the second was you mentioned the doors were left a loan (to dry ?) for a week. Is that the rule ?
1. yes
2.for me yes
Dark shadow metalic on foxbody doors.
Are your fans set to exhaust the paint out or blow air in and push paint out? Also are they explosion proof? Im trying to set my garage up any help is appreciated!
blow air out