How To Flow Coat A Car After Paint - What Is Flow Coating?
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- Опубліковано 4 лис 2024
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Great tutorial on Flow Coating. I’m always picking up tips from you Pharraway 🤝
Thank You brother
Beautiful
Holy crap, that looks like glass. Amazing results, you are obviously at the top of your game.
I love seeing people working and sharing tips. We can always learn something new. When I heard you say how hot it was I was concerned but you did well! Still to this day after over 30 years of painting I remember the cleanest job I ever did. Dead of winter in 2004, 1956 ford f600 dually that was lowered. Jet black with red flames, tipped with white and blue. Had a fire going in the shop but it was snowing outside. Maybe 45 inside the booth. I ended up using the old magic reducer because of such low temperatures. Keep up the great work!
@boardtodeath46 Thank You brother 🙏
Oh brother, you’re gifted by God. Your degree of craftsmanship is out of this world. In top of that you have the rear ability to transmit your knowledge with excellence. God bless you and may He give you much health to continue your journey for many years to come.
That’s sweet, texture, smooth as glass and perfect! Flow coat is what I like, awesome results!
16 on first door and 18 on second door . But it looks great im going to try this ,but mine looks like this when I'm done because I wet sand every coat until the clear .
Family thank you for this flow coating is an art and you broke down the details to make the results amazing
Wow! I’ve never seen a trigger actuated light mounted on a spray gun. Very cool. Thanks for your information!
It’s not controlled by the trigger
Much respect for those that Share Knowledge rather than Keep it. God Bless you too👊🙏
I can tell you love what you do n have integrity in your work! That’s what make you a master at it! Thanks for teching us brother!
the reducer was the secret I needed and forgot. thank you, will try that on the next car
After watching this, I learned something new, What a fantastic shine and mirror finish, Thank you,
A true painter, his paint jobs don’t need to be sanded
Thanks, in all the painting I've done (many years) I always wet sanded, buffed, I'll try your way. Thanks again
I don’t know squat about auto painting, but this looks amazing!
Hi Pharraway.
It’s looking amazing, Very beautiful work!! Thank you for showing us how to do. 😀😀
U R a painting genius
Welcome to the glassworks! That is a great job, excellent workmanship!
I use to do 3 coats of clear when doing stripes, then wet sand with 600 the next day then 3 more coats of clear. Now I can get the same results with 4 coats at once.
Wow, I think you've done this before. Beautiful job.
Like glass...lots of work..Good job brother...
You got the painting down to a art nice work brother
Awesome work carnal, you and SprayWay get down hard when it comes to yalls jale. Shout out from Clayton North Carolina
5 coats of clear! That's what I like to see. Most bodyshops tend to use 1.5- 2 coats which I think is ridiculous
Most bodyshops only tend to fix collision work on late model cars. They have no intention of cut and buffing, plus they want the texture to match the factory texture. The whole intention is to make the car looked like it was never in an accident... When I do restorations, I'll put at least three coats on, depending on how the clear flows out. I cut and buff all of my jobs. I've yet to spray a car without getting a bug or some garbage in the paint.
2 coats of clear are industry standards.
More than 2 coats can cause die back and unnessasary buffing when working on collision insurance jobs
@fredthompson2846 i agree but some custom projects I've seen 3+ coats of clear so that they can wet sand, flow coat or cut and polish.
That’s the amount they come with from the factory.
I do motorcycle paint, and for the last 20 years I have been using polyurethane from the base coats & up.
I love painting it, and it is far more durable than acrylic urethane!
Summer time is fleeting, not relaxing but working on repairs. Question; was the same clear used on 1, 2 & 3? Some say inter-coat is required before top coating with high solids because it will cause ghosting and other unpleasant results. Inter-coat is common to graphics, strips and many other color issues including vinyl decals under clear. I am learning as I feel you are one of the best!
DK, ASE master tech, retired! Thank you so much!
Painter for 40 years and I would never do that. The best way in my opinion is to wet sand with 1500 or. 2000 wet and dry and then polish up with a polisher. Your 600 on a sander is way too coarse and you could go through the clear. Nothing wrong with your method, both methods get the same result. Good job though man.
Yes! I was going to say the same thing. Suggesting 600 grit dry with a sander on youtube is bound to destroy alot of projects. We all live and learn
I'm in the 1000 - 1500 wet sanding camp. 600 is aggressive imho. Maybe 800 if you have a clear that needs leveling. Biggest thing is start with the least aggressive sand paper to get the job done while decreasing the risk of burning it though to the paint.
You are an artist brother!
That’s awesome and makes sense over buffing.
I used to do this on custom motorcycles and helmets using 2K acrylic - but I'd flow coat as soon as the first coats were set enough to sand, usually the following day rather than waiting a week. I think you get a better bond of the flow coat if the previous ones are still a bit fresh.
I agree, next day or soon thereafter. Put on 3 coats, sand the trash out and reclear a other 2 coats with reducer mixed in..like glass everytime.
People can go 800 or 1000 grit if scared of 600. Great video TY
You have amazing skills painting vehicles. Thank you for the videos!
I understand hanging the doors for base coat color,but to reclear i will always spray horizontal if possible and it will have less orange peel than hanging, always
You risk having dirt nibs spraying it flat. I try to hang my parts as much as possible. Any time you are reaching over something you take that risk.
Hey...you don't have to do a flow coat that way...that's too much work. You can flow coat on your last coat of clear when you paint...but you need a booth . What you do is spray your base coat using the right reducer (if you are not using waterborne ) , then spray your first coat of clear with the right reducer for the temp. Let it flash off for a good twenty or thirty minutes. Spray a second coat, same reducer, same flash off time. Spray a final coat but use a reducer for a higher temperature...and it will flow out like glass.
Agree. I paint in a restoration shop and every job is a complete and this technique is unrealistic when you are using $1200/gal. kit of Glasurit 923-255 clear. I use my last coat(I put 5 coats on btw) exactly as you explained. Sand/buff starting with 800 up to Trizact 3000. Aside from not being realistic for completes, in any busy reputable collision shop...the job had to be finished yesterday and delivered. No insurance company is going to pay for a rental car for the customer while you re-clear something, thats more time and money. Personal projects wheres you are spending your money and your own time, its a matter of preference. If I looked at my boss and said I need to spend a week re-prepping a body and every panel to re-clear, I would not have a job anymore. After 22yrs of painting cars, Im expected to deliver on the first shot.
Great work...nice and clean
So you are stating to use a reducer on all coats of clear and it does the same thing
@Ray-ux9eh the key in his example is shooting in a booth for cleanliness. If u have a booth, this is the way, since every coat lays down smooth and there's almost zero trash in it. For a person paining in their garage, there's gonna be trash and dust between layers that will need to be sanded out prior to flow coating. So yes, he's right but garage painting vs booth painting provides different outcomes of cleanliness. The garage type of painting requires more work (corrections), sanding, buffing , polishing to get similar results as what a booth can do. His method should provide a smooth finish of the bat with nearly no orange peel effect (the clear is reduced, it'll lay down nicely).
@@Ray-ux9eh No...change your reducer on the last coat to one that is one temperature range higher than your booth temperature. The longer it takes the reducer to evaporate the more it will flow out the clear.
That's a beautiful paint job. Back in 1996 _ 1997 I was rebuilding a 1980 Suzuki a GS1000ET and got a quote of $1,200 to paint a five gallon fuel tank, to small side covers, a small tail section and a small fairing. The painter said he wet sanded after every coat of paint and clear. That was way more than I wanted to spend so I went somewhere else. He didn't call it flow coat.
As a retired body man/painter I have noticed that people on You Tube always way overdo everything. They prime too much, they sand too much, they clear coat too much...and they buff too much. The goal is to do just enough to produce a high quality result.That comes with years of experience using the same products, the same process and using the same equipment over and over again so you know your parameters of operation.. Take your bike for example...a good painter would have just painted and clear coated...and sanded and polished the last coat if he had to. He was trying to justify the money you're gonna pay...and how could you tell he was sanding between coats? Many people are awestruck by the You Tube auto body / painting content...but then they have no experience to judge whether what they are seeing is good or bad. .
Nice job. Thank you for sharing and teaching. Kind regards.
We used to do this with hardened enamel. Shoot it ,wet sand it, clean it, re- shoot . Glass !!!!
Get enough coats, sand out orage peel... Shoot two coats clear, let set to proper time, then thin down clear... Shoot a hot heavy coat, and your done. No buffing. Ive done it with black HOK paint.
Another great video👍 I always think it’s too hot in my garage to paint in Florida, but it’s actually cooler than yours by a few degrees!
This is the proper way to get a glass finish & get rid of orange peel. Cut & buff removes clear & the uv protection. You cant guarentee how much clear you cut off. Different edges might almost cut through, then youre clear eventually fails. This is the same amount of work as cut n buff, or less imo.. i dont buff, my job comes out great or i flow coat it.
I find it kind of funny that this is "flow coating" because it never used to be done this way. And I'm not saying this is wrong, obviously the result speaks for itself. Back in the days when single stage acrylic urethane ruled the world ( mid 70's to mid 80's) , a painter would pound on three coats of single stage with a gun that had a 14" x 4" spray pattern ( less passes, less dirt, less painter fatigue, less mottling ...more paint use! LOL!), and after the last coat sat about ten minutes, the painter would take almost straight reducer and spray a coat on the vehicle, which was very tricky with metallics, but a slam dunk with solid colours. The additional reducer would soften up the last coat and re-flow it all like glass without solvent popping because the solvent was just on top of the paint. You could also do this using a wet last coat but a drop in temperature in the booth into a lower temp range as you start your last coat. I have no clue if this would work with modern low voc clear coats...but I know a drop in temp in the booth will do it. Back in the day, if you had to buff anything you were considered a third rate painter LOL!
CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
Clear coat should have been 10-15% reduced from the start, then you can get it flat straight up
Steve again. I waked your video again and listened better about your description about number of coats. Drying time I still question.
Again thanks, Steve
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Awesome as all of your videos,, thank you for taking the time to make them and share them.
Anytime brother 🙏
I flow coat mostly everything I paint
Awesome information and thank you incredibly awesome finish on these doors.
Would it be better to lay the panels down flat
Looks awesome brother!
Top job always from your magic hands brother! Regards from Greece!😊
I’ve found that clear doesn’t stick too well beyond the 400 grit.
I think I'd still buff it... When you were panning the camera across the finished panels, it looked like I could see a few specs of dirt/dust that got caught in those final clear sprays.
Yep, at least a polishing will generally always be needed. These coats are reduced, and thin, so not alot of material there for trash to stick to..
So you just started sanding and it appears the door has clear on it. Is that correct? Thank you for the video.😊
Yes , there's still clear on the panel only the saning levels the clear to a smooth matte finish. The new coats of clear are reduced down, they will not stack up or make new orange peel finishes. This how u get a smooth and flat paint job.
It does need a buff. Still some imperfections that showed up on camera to clean up. Way better than having to buff from the orange peel clear coat before tho
Hi Brother, as Always your workmanship is outstanding, also enjoy your projects.
For the flow coat on both doors, being it was 95*, using slow hardener, 1.3 tip, did you used 5% or 10 % reducer, what was your air pressure set at?
Thanks
29PSI
Oh got you. It’s churched up cut and buff.
Im surprised you didn't wetsand the panels? But, it looks like it totally works for you. I have an older school lumina gun light. Im 11:32 know they have a #3 now. Trigger activated. That's cool!loved the video!
Like glass , nice job
I see you’re using that Urekem Glamour Clear, I’ve been using the same on my projects!
Maybe you can offer some advice. I’ve found it to have a lot of die-back. Every job I’ve sprayed with it I’m happy with the finish, then a few days later the die-back is set in and it loses the nice mirror. Of course your get that on every clear to some extent, but I’m wondering if you have any tips for helping to avoid it? I get it really bad on a job I did over .004 flake.. 4 coats to bury it, looked great, but a few days later it had such bad dieback the flake was easily visible. Plenty of clear on top to wetsand without hitting the flake, though.
Any thoughts? Try the slower activator perhaps?
Thanks!
you answered your question brother use a slow activator it works for me
@@PHARRAWAY thanks man, I'll give that a shot next round!
Looks awesome! I had to cut and buff my DIY paint job. Never want to do that again. Looking forward to trying to duplicate your technique. Knowing how is the first step, followed by proper execution (I hope).
Only wet sand enough to really remove the trash, dust, or nibs. Then reclear with a reduced clear. Works great.
Great video. I will be trying this out soon. Thank you
Wow! Fantastic job mate 👏
It looks good but i can defenatly see some particles in it, this will still need to be sanded and buff right?
I would say maybe a quick wet sand with 1500 grit, then buff it up..since these last coats have been reduced, they're pretty thin and the reducer smoother things out alot. So won't take as much sanding or buffing to get great results from this point.
same way I do guitar bodies and necks, didn't know it had a name I thought it was just how it was done? lacquers anyways, all those polys and acrylics you can just sand buff and polish those without clear if ya want to, depends how deep you want it to look I spose? but lacquer I always clear a few coats of lacquer over, sand down to at least 1200 then clear over 2-3 coats if its uneven or not right I might sand polish to 4500 but usually its good to go, wax on wax off
Hey Pharraway bro. I’m planning on doing black base, followed by a few layers of pearl, then two layers of clear. Wet sand, then a few flow coats.
I’m worried about getting solvent pop - do you think I should let the base cure, wet sand, and then apply pearl? Or is pearl ok to apply say after one hour after the base?
I will attempt to do: base (full cure, wet sand), 2x pearl and 2x clear (full cure, wet sand) and then 3 layers flow coat.
I’m just concerned about getting solvent pop from all the layers of paint but think my plan is pretty good as no more than 4 coats at a time. What do you think?
Oh and do you use a 1.3 or 1.4 tip for pearl/small metallic?
Appreciate your channel and your advice bro, stay safe and well. 🙏
your ok to apply pearl right after
@@PHARRAWAY appreciate your reply bro 🙏 unfortunately, space is super tight, I’m painting my panels off the car, so they’ll cure. I don’t have enough space to paint everything in one go. and then I’ll have to wet sand, apply pearl, cure, then wet sand again, and clear then wet sand/buff.
I’m gonna have the door jambs and insides of panels masked off and they’re just plain black.
A whole lot of work bro.
Great job. Interesting application. Keep it up.
Another great job & tutorial my brother.
What pressure you adjust that gun too?😊 looks great and must have good ventilation because I don’t see any dust or anything in it. Nice job.😊
33psi
Looking.good n God bless you too 🇺🇲🙏northern calif
Really, really smooth. 😁😁
Beautiful work! (As usual!)
Hi, great work! Is it possible to sand with 1200 grit instead of 600 grit and then apply the flow coat reduced at 10%, without having future problems of flaking of the last 2 layers applied? In other words, does sanding the previous three layers of clear coat with a p1200 guarantee the right mechanical adhesion to the new two layers? Many thanks!
It's clear sprayed over clear so no issues with adhesion. I will add this though, in my experience this works because the existing 2 or 3 coats are new/fresh (shot recently). Adhesion issues can happen when shooting new clear over old clear (a car painted months or yrs ago that you're trying to wet sand just enough to reclear over old clear).
600 grit is very aggressive on clear coat, the lowest I'd probably go would be 800 only on certain areas that need quick leveling (like a clear coat drip/run). Usually for general leveling of orange peel, or removing trash from the surface, 1000 , 1200, and 1500 are best.
Looks perfect from here. Great job.
Is it possible to do any overalll flow coat flowing the same method? Or must it be a panel by panel process?
your ok to do an overall
Looks amazing.
I agree and do everything the same except for reducing the clear, to much risk of dye back and l use 800 unless its really bad ,
After flowcoating and you wetsand and buff, if you burn through the new layer of clear, will it show the 2 different layers?
no it will not
@@PHARRAWAY Ok good, that's what I was afraid of. The 2 layers of clearcoat showing.
Both layers are new (well a few days between them) so they'll bond as one.
@@phillipgrandison2384 What about clearcoat that is months or even years apart?
@89GTFoxDude if your shooting clear over a car that was already cleared a few months before, it shouldn't be an issue. I'd do a quick tack coat 1st for adhesion (without reducer), then flow coat with reduced clear, I've done it. So, sand the panel, then tack clear it, then flow coat it. In the video he doesn't do the tack coat cause his clear coated panel is bout 1 week old, and there's no need but if it's been a few months I wouldn't skip that step. Flow coats work best on newly cleared panels since the initial clear isn't fully cured yet. Being able to distinguish between the 2 different coats is rarely an issue., meaning I haven't seen it yet.
turned out nice..Did you fix the spots in the first door?. @7:20
Yes
As always, excellent 👌 😎
Perfect work ethic.
You do such amazing work I love all of your videos but if you don’t mind I have a question for you is it possible to paint your car in pieces like the hood fenders then wait like a week then do the rest
@larrygriffin7024 yes it is possible
Looks great, bro!
Why not lay the doors flat. Better flow lest chance of sags or runs?
Less chance of dirt nibs and bugs.
Beautiful indeed!
Nice work, how much is that clear set up? Looks good and seems off brand I may buy some
www.thecoatingstore.com/product/2k-hs-glamour-urethane-clear-1-5-gallon-kit/
Perfection 👌🏻
This is what you do when you have used a cheap 4-1-1 clear that pinches up with a lot of peel.
Use a high solids 2-1 clear and your peel will look factory slick.
Cheap scates always use cheap crap that cost 4× as much as useing high quality very expensive materials.
Thank You for your comment
Question, Do you change the pressure at the gun when flow coating? Higher pressure, Lower pressure or the same as when you spray the initial coat of clear? And my reasoning behind the question is because of the addition of the 10% reducer.
I use the same pressure 29psi
@@PHARRAWAY Thanks for the reply!
Amazing job, I wish I knew how to paint car/parts, my car's trunk was painted black by previous owner and it sucks. But well cheers from McAllen,Tx/956. Subscribed to ur channel.
Awesome from the 956
Awesome thanks man watching you has helped me out alot......
Have those doors looking better than the Top Gun sunglasses 😎😎 😅
What kind of clear do you recommend for headlights? Will this work?
I use urekem clear
Are your fans set to exhaust the paint out or blow air in and push paint out? Also are they explosion proof? Im trying to set my garage up any help is appreciated!
blow air out
We apply 3 coats and sand then 3 more coats then sand and buff show quality 😮
awesome
So in ur previous flow coating videos u used grey scotch pad before shooting the clear. Here you're just using 600 grit? What do think works better the grey scotch pad or 600?
I think for me is 600
Did you finish with 600 or wet sand with something finer after? Nice job
Finished with 600
Man! That’s awesome!
What about metallics? I’ve had that setup and worked wonders without orange peel, but metal flake I saw it drag or create issues. And what PSI or did I miss that
29psi
Looks great. Question why did you stress using a new pad?
It's much harder than a used one and will not any waves
Beautiful work
Nice job 👍