I just figured out why half the outlets in my mom's house haven't worked since she bought the place, despite the inspection being "perfect". Thank you!
I'm a pipefitter by trade but worked at an electrical supply business for 5 year which mean I don't know jack about the actual work of proper install. ( some basics ) I worked my way up in time to sales on counter and my Boss explained to NEVER TELL a home owner how to...period ! I 100% agree ...life & property too important to risk saving a few bucks . I learned from your video and didn't waist 30 minutes ...hit 👍 and Sub. Tks
This guy really has the explanation down and everything except that correct as far as I'm concerned. One of the best out there in totally not trying to knock his knowledge n just add to it.
I think it's worth mentioning to install the wire loop in direction that the screw tightens. I have seen it installed counterclockwise and it straightens the loop out.
@@user-uy3pe1jy5c i promise simple things other people know, you have zero knowledge about. So instead of bringing other people down either say nothing or thank the person for the tad bit of information
I’m no electrician but wire my own place. I never knew about the measuring tab on the back of an outlet. And the hole in the stripping tool for making the curl in the wire is new to me. Thanks
I watched multiple outlet exchange videos, and none of them showed how to wire when you want to use a light switch independently. Great video, thank you good sir.✌️
Ha ha! I thought I knew how to do this! I'm humbled. This video taught me a lot. Thank you for sharing! I looked at your Playlists and was hoping you listed your electricity videos and included a few more categories. Although, I searched for "electricity" and found several videos, so maybe that will make me happy. :D
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Well, my search brought up some good videos on your channel. I wasn't complaining and I appreciate very much the help you are giving all of us.
O.K. AFTER 10 videos and 3 hours.... THANK YOU....1965 home....changing 3-way light to Xmas plug ... black red white.......thanks for a GREAT refresher. !!!!!
A lot of these small and important details are skipped in workplace training because so many people who teach just don't care. it's good to see videos where people take the time to explain the small things.
Thanks for sharing the switch outlet. I was confused about why my brand new outlet made my lights always on and my switch not turning off these lights. now i know!
Thank you sir... Very well explained & illustrated... I'm about to install ( 4 ) outlets in my attic, a pair on each gable end to each side of my window openings... I recently installed ( 3 ) ceiling light fixture boxes on my cross supports at 6000 lumens on each light fixture. My goal is to wire off of the outer light fixtures to a outlet at each gable end & then run a extension wire off of each outlet to the other outlet, giving me a total of ( 4 ) hot outlets, i.e. always on... What you have demonstrated here will make me double check my light fixture connections where the hot, i.e. black is on the gold & the neutral, i.e. the white is on the silver screw connections & I now know I went out of code where I doubled up on a ground wire in the center light fixture, I will correct this with a pigtail whereas the outer light fixtures each have their own individual ground connections & again I will double check my gold & white connections whilst I'm in there one last time... Just one final comment here, per the electrical code for better than three years now, the neutrals now go from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock per the manual, if they aren't, you're out of code & amazingly enough, a good many electricians are NOT aware of this newer code to this very day, lol! All the best, Bill... :~)
one other simple thing, that a newbie may not know. They should make sure to wrap the copper in a clockwise manner around the screw terminal. I know that's the way you did it in the video, however some may not realize that is the way to do it.
Very true, it pulls the wire in as you tighten it. I also almost never use a philips to tighten, I use a flathead or a hybrid (flathead/square) driver as I can get more torque to insure bonding.
Excellent and informative video. Hints: Remember that saying, "Black on Brass, White on White." After attaching the hot and neutral wires, you should wrap electrical tape around the outlet to cover all the termals. When using the tape, you might want to remove the mounting screws. They will get in the way.
Took a class a couple of years ago re: home electrical DIY tasks, but your videos made me feel comfortable actually trying to replace receptacles (and switches from your other videos). Just completed 1 switch and 3 receptacles. (No shocks, no fires.) Thank you.
This was a good video and very informative to me since I am not an electrician by any means. I know a little and now I've learned a little more, thank you for sharing this knowledge.
johnson pham Usually it is OK. It happened to me only once when I was pushing a hot second outlet into a busy box. The wire were live, and I saw a big spark between the hot screw and a grounding wire. After that incident, I started to taped over the hot terminals in busy boxes.
Very basic but informative for those who have never wired a receptacle. Coming from the UK, I found it strange to use black as the live wire because black is always used as neutral there. Also the ground pin is always at the top not at the bottom. I had to completely retrain my brain. Also having the receptacle independent from the cover plate was something new. I was so used to having it all one piece and with built in individual switches so you can turn off power without unplugging the appliance
I think as well as showing the connections to the split receptacle you should include the connections at the switch to see how the connections at the switch make it possible to have a live and switched receptacle. At the switch you have a 2 wire power supply coming into the junction box and a 3 wire leaving going to the receptacle to make it possible to complete the circuit. Other than that I liked the clarity of your video,especially the importance of the proper amount of insulation to remove. Some receptacles have a small hole under the screws that you stick the stripped wire into and then wrap it back around the screw without having to bend it first. The little hole will always be under the right side of the screw.
Great explanation and very clear. I like how you explained how one outlet may be controlled by a switch, and how that works. That is my situation so you helped me out. Thank you.
You worked it but didn’t mention that the wire should loop around the screw in the clockwise direction that the screw is tightened so maximum force can be applied when tightening.
Tony Manero, but he DID connect the black wire loop Correctly on the brass terminal, no ??? So perhaps, he was thinking that people would watch and do it the same way..
Who installs recitals with the ground terminal at the 12 position? I see a lot that the ground hole is at the 6:00 position. I was taught and it might be wrong, always install with the ground at the 12:00 position. Why? If a child is playing say with a metal object butter knike ect and a plug is partly loose both positive and negative terminals are exposed and almost always will shock you or potentially kill you. But if the recipital is installed with the ground at the 12:00 position in the same situation the first and hopefully only contact is to the ground terminal. Just a random thought.
@@MJ0U812 90% of plugs I see has the ground hole at the 6:00 position. I think it may be because a lot of plugs that are wired with a 90° plug that is designed to allow the plug and wire hug the wall. A lot of those plugs have the grounding prong on the bottom. I guess it also depends on where the plug is being used and what is being plugged into it. Another one to blow your mind, some older houses had the lugs put in sideways.
I've seen plenty of back stab connected outlets catch fire, especially from space heaters. The thin blade like contact has much less surface area, therefore higher resistance. Whereas the side screw connections provide more ample surface area to accommodate the amperage / voltage continuity.
@Sean Stevenson It is all about contact surface area. Backstab do not make enough contact and therefore create more heat at the small area it does (they tend to be more prone to corrosion issues as well). Terminal use (screw or back wire) have much more contact area. I never use backstab, nor do I use the device as the passthrough to another run by sharing the contacts. I always use a pigtail to provide a single wire for each connection on any device (hot and neutral). Always make sure to screw down those unused terminal screws.
I'm in the process of replacing all the outlets and switches, myself, in a late 50's mobile home, and everyone of them are back-stabbed. At the time I started this project, I didn't know there was a preference as to what method was preferred, but I'm glad I did it the right way. Thank you for this input!!
@@csimet thanks for your comment. I’ve been looking for an answer on how to wire a middle of run outlet. Whether to run a black hot incoming to the outlet and continue the run with another black on the other chrome screw. Likewise with the silver screws, by having a white wire on one screw and continue the run with a white wire off the other silver screw. That verses using a pigtail to provide hot and a white pigtail to provide neutral. That probably isn’t worded properly, but your response cleared it up in my thinking. Thanks.
I F*ing love this video. I just changed all my outlets and kept blowing the breaker. That stupid little tab got me. Had a switched outlet just ruining my day. Appreciate these videos a lot. Thnx.
If blowing the breaker, you want to make sure if using more than one circuit on a switched receptacle that you are not using feeds from adjacent breakers as that would place 240 volts in the box. If the tab is not broken that means you just tied two separate hots together.
I agree with you. Don’t ever use those darn push in connectors. I’ve had a few failures regarding those in my own home. They randomly stop working, crackle, and snap sometimes with a load and with the heat and cold cycling. I’ve personally never used them for that reason but my entire house was wired that way when I purchased it. Also avoid daisy chaining the receptacles because when that push in connector fails on one, you lose all the subsequent receptacles in the line. Then you’re hopping room to room trying to figure out which Is the first in the series. I’d also advise to remove the screw clamps from the receptacles that come with them and use the screw alone with the hook around wire method. There’s almost 0% chance of failure. :) be safe!
Mr. Sleep Agreed. I used the name brand Wago connectors very briefly a year ago and while tugging on the wires in a 3 gang box, I pulled out a wire accidentally with very little effort. The point of contact to the conductor is just so very very small. I threw out the bags of connectors I had and never went back. They may be safe overall but they just don’t give me the warm fuzzy secure feeling that I get when I twist the wires together with my electrical pliers and then squeeze it all down tightly into a good quality nut. 😁. If someone is trying them out, I’d recommend trying to twirl the wire in the connector or just rock them back and forth a little. You’ll find that they are very loose overall.
If the box is metallic, (usually they're much smaller than plastic or composite boxes), I like to wrap the terminals around with electrical tape before pushing the outlet into the box. People tend to shake the outlets when plugging or unplugging appliances, and it is possible to arc the box with hot side (if the metal box is grounded).
I was pretty glad you mentioned those push-in connectors. Those things are awful and should never ever have been included on an outlet. I'm pretty sure that's why my house burned down. The previous owner used them on all the outlets. I didn't get to the kitchen to fix all them where the fire started.
I've been doing home repairs for 40 years. I NEVER knew that the small slot was the hot slot, why some wires were red and some were black, about the built in wire stripper gauge, the purpose of the built-in the wire stripper gauge, the wire bolster on the outlet, the removable tab to isolate the top and bottom outlet, or even the fact that the screw terminals are preferred over the push in terminals. One thing I have learned from UA-cam is that no matter now mundane a subject, I can almost always learn important details I never knew. Thank you so much. Like many of the readers here, I also notice you didn't mention how important it is to place the wire around the screw in a clockwise position. I figured this out on my own more than 35 years ago but this is the first time I have seen that it is "official code" (and understandably so).
"Black on brass", first thing I was ever taught as a kid concerning electrical outlets and switches. I also thread in the unused screws, especially when using gang boxes.
I’d say if you have been doing home repairs for 40 years and didn’t know all the things you mentioned then you have no business do electrical work. You have most likely been doing it wrong for 40 years. The hot vs neutral vs ground on outlets is very important and if you don’t understand the purpose of the wide slot and narrow slot on an outlet then you have no idea if it’s wired correctly. Your lucky your ignorance has not cause someone harm or caused a fire.
@@mrsmith8436 You are correct. Fortunately it’s only been my own home that has been exposed to the risk. I do always have black on brass, I just never understood why that rule was present. I still don’t understand why one side is hot and the other is not, since alternating current means that the current goes “back and forth” continually. My father 50 years ago taught me that “both wires are hot“ on all AC circuits. So as of today, I still don’t understand why one wire is considered hot and the other is not. Thank you for your thoughtful comment. Have a good day. Maybe one day I’ll understand it better.
@@thhall459 The neutral (white) wire isn't hot unless the circuit is in use. The polarized plugs help ensure that when appliances/devices are plugged in, they can be switched off properly, according to how they are internally wired.
@@mrsmith8436 I am grateful for your counsel. Thankfully the only place I ever did this was my own home which my family and I have lived in for the past 34 years, and so far we have escaped tragedy. Regardless, I have always put the black wire on the brass terminal and the white wire on the other non-brass terminal. I just never knew why, because in my ignorance, I thought that AC (alternating current) meant both wires are always hot, and that there is no real distinction between the two. My ignorance was bolstered by the fact that most electrical devices can be plugged into an outlet either way. Anyway. Thank you and this UA-camr for correcting the error of my ways.
I've watched so many electricians use the strippers to remove the insulation and then pliers to bend the wire. I learnt here for the first time about the little hole in the strippers - who knew !
people who do it a lot will always find a technique that works best for the,. I don't use strippers at all for receptacles, because a pair of Klein lineman's pliers is the correct width for the length of the bare section and the end of the jaws is the perfect thickness for making the hook. the bending hole has never been quite right for making he perfect hook in one motion.
I noted that you rocked the wire strippers. That has a chance of nicking the wire. Also, it’s best practice to tighten unused screws, especially with metal boxes.
Very good, clear directions. I've done installs and didn't know some of the tricks shown here. Yes the loop should go in the clockwise direction. A slight but Important fact. Otherwise a very useful presentation!
I always screw in the unused screws so they don’t catch and nick wires in the box. You should show techniques for pushing the plug back into the box. That is often he toughest part of the job. The hook around the screw should always be positioned so that tightening the screw closes that hook rather than opening it up.
John Sessoms That should be as simple as using the other unused hot and neutral screws on the outlet to feed power to I believe 4 to 5 outlets max on a circuit.
Thanks! I've replaced a bunch of these but still learned a couple of things. I didn't know about the hole on the wire strippers. Also didn't know about the tab/bridge for the switched outlet. While not recommended, I actually changed outlets at my mom's old house the other day without turning off the power. Carefully handling each wire separately and not completing the circuit....lol. that was a first for me but I couldn't turn off her power.
Excellent video. Extremely well explained and I was able to learn about the issue I was having with the red wire connection also some very helpful tips in general. Great job!
Not to pick this apart, but, it's very important to stagger the wires when you attach them to the terminal screws. If you use only the bottom or top screws on the device, you are relying on that little tab of metal rated at 15a to act as a brute for the current. It doesn't matter which, but you should always have the hot on the top and the neutral on the bottom screw, or vice versa. That way you are not requiring the device to carry a load from one appliance to another, also if the device fails, neither port will work and you might be alerted earlier to that failure.
I'm trying to think of how to word this. If wired like I stated above, if either outlet were to fail, neither would work, possibly alerting you to a failed device earlier. If you only have something plugged into the bottom, and the top fails, you could be using a faulty, possible dangerous device without knowing.
This is great. I'm replacing outlets in a place I just moved into and the first outlet had just one wire to each side, the second had 2 to each side. Now I get why! Also picked up some great tips here, thanks!
Red also for MBC Green not always used with conduit. Many electricians just remove insulation in middle of wire and loop around screw as it goes to next outlet
Thank you so much for a great video. Really good teacher. I learned a lot. I did not know about the built-in wire stripping gauge and retainer features. Thank you! New subscriber!
Those push-in contacts are the worst, especially if it’s an upstream outlet in a chain... I was having trouble charging my EV outside only to discover an unused outlet in my pantry was burning itself up because of those push-in contacts... I changed the outlet and went with the screws and everything is perfect now!
Others have started to mention the EV charging issues especially when plugging into a $0.50 15 Amp Receptacle. Probably will be something that NEC will want to address in the next revision.
apartment im working on is from the 70's the one outlet i had didnt get enough power. so i down grade the voltage with a smaller number. going to try with this type of outlet later
There is a small square hole beneath the screw (on some brands of Duplex) that you can shove the stripped wire into and wrap it CLOCKWISE around the screw. Insulation should not be under the terminal screw. ALWAYS have the conductor going CLOCKWISE so it tightens under the screw correctly. End of wire to the Right.
Absolutely never use the push pin connections on a normal receptacle! That's good advice! It is against the NEC as well! The only time I'd advise to use push pin type connecters is on a GFCI because along with the push pin connections, their is a screw for each side that double clamps down on the inserted wire thus making sure it don't pop out and it saves time having to loop wires and wrapping around the terminals.
One thing that you didn't mention which might just be so second nature that you skipped it was the direction of the loop. wrapping it so that it will tighten the connection vs work itself out from under the screw. Basically, wrap the loop clockwise as you did.
Don't ever rely on the "so called" voltage tester. Also known as a "tick" tracer. They pick up milli voltage and can flash or beep false voltage readings. Use a "true" RMS voltage meter, preferably fluke that's shows the actual voltage.
Thanks for the feedback Angelo, yeah I think there are many who agree with you on the multimeter over the voltage tester. I am also a big fan of Fluke and had a meter on me daily for years.
They are fairly reliable and have a place in my electrical kit to do a first check that the outlet is dead before opening up the box. Also good for tracing/finding which breaker a wire is on.
OMG, I've depended upon them for many years. Never had one fail me yet, but I suppose they only need once with the right conditions. I've always called it a cricket, because of the chirping noise it makes.
OMG , I think this is the problem I have ! who the fek wires up like this and doesn’t write it on the breaker box I’m extremely lucky not to have had my biscuits burnt . I replaced a socket in my garage, only one socket was working . Turned the RCB of Replaced the socket , simple ! Disconnect the socket and copied the connections 👍 . Turned the RCB on everything working fine both sockets back in operation 👍. Went back to the breaker box because I had noticed one switch on one breaker in the opposite column was slightly out of line . So , I decided to touch it , “ I’m an Englishman and I like uniformity “ so I lined it up . 💥 I released the kraken 💥💥🧐 . It’s off again now and after following your video I realize my mistake . I’m going to cut the little piece that joins the two sockets together . If we did that in the UK we’d have 480 volts and a prison sentence. Thank you 👍
you should always check to see if there is a clip on the old plug before you remove anything that means hot side and neutral the reason is some times you can have duel feed circuits and if they are out of phase and you dont remove that clip you have a 220 volt dead short and when you turn on that second breaker bang this is most commen in kitchens and garages
Word of advice: Never use the stab connectors on outlets. They are notorious for failure. On switches you're probably okay using them because most lighting, especially LED, is low current draw.
Two things to add. Tighten down those unused connectors and wrap the outlet with electrical tape. What's your preference for orientation of the ground prong?
I do believe the stripper guide is for the push in wires, but it works for the screw fittings, perhaps a bit on the short side. Once one is consistent, it works fine.
here's the next mind melter: the holes in the "ears" on the receptacle are often also designed to make the hook, and I have even seen a few designed to be used to strip the insulation.
Make sure you test the wire for the correct gauge before using the wire stripper. By choosing the wrong gauge on the stripper and attempting to strip the wire, you can nick the copper of the wire or cut off some copper strands of wire if using stranded wire. There are usually two separate gauges marked on a wire stripper. One side is labeled for stranded wire and one for solid wire. They are not the same stripping hole on the wire stripper for both types of wire.
I've done a lot of my own wiring (DIYer) and found a couple of useful tips here like the guide on the receptacle and hole in the wire strippers. Cool! Thanks
Last year I learned it can be done wrong. I had an outlet that's been sitting happy for 60 years, but last year when the transformer on the pole blew up the surge shorted an outlet. Seems hot was pressed against the box's ground screw and the insulation thinned enough from the pressure that the surge arced to ground. I believe the wires were simply too long, all my boxes are tiny.
Don't confuse traditional back-wiring using the push clamps shown in this video with using the side clamps found on better receptacles. For less than 50 cents more in big box stores, you can buy receptacles with a side clamp. I feel the side clamp method is safer and easier than looping wire around the terminals as there is less chance of a looped wire not being fully seated under the terminal. Also, novices tend to bend the wire into a loop so sharply that it creates a breaking point. Spend a few cents more and buy a side clamp style.
Agree that those are 2 different things and also for beginners as you outlined that is probably a safer route to get a properly wired outlet. Thanks for the feedback.
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I just figured out why half the outlets in my mom's house haven't worked since she bought the place, despite the inspection being "perfect". Thank you!
Kahli21 Why? Please share.
I'm a pipefitter by trade but worked at an electrical supply business for 5 year which mean I don't know jack about the actual work of proper install. ( some basics ) I worked my way up in time to sales on counter and my Boss explained to NEVER TELL a home owner how to...period ! I 100% agree ...life & property too important to risk saving a few bucks .
I learned from your video and didn't waist 30 minutes ...hit 👍 and Sub. Tks
This guy really has the explanation down and everything except that correct as far as I'm concerned. One of the best out there in totally not trying to knock his knowledge n just add to it.
I wish I had your videos back in the 70s when I grew up and did work on my parents house. THANKS for these videos!
I think it's worth mentioning to install the wire loop in direction that the screw tightens. I have seen it installed counterclockwise and it straightens the loop out.
Good Eye !!
Nice!
Yes great curves 👍🏻
It's a shame that has to be said.
@@user-uy3pe1jy5c i promise simple things other people know, you have zero knowledge about. So instead of bringing other people down either say nothing or thank the person for the tad bit of information
I am an old timer and I forget the basics. This is a huge benefit for me.
I’m no electrician but wire my own place. I never knew about the measuring tab on the back of an outlet. And the hole in the stripping tool for making the curl in the wire is new to me.
Thanks
Happy to help 👍
I watched multiple outlet exchange videos, and none of them showed how to wire when you want to use a light switch independently. Great video, thank you good sir.✌️
Ha ha! I thought I knew how to do this! I'm humbled. This video taught me a lot. Thank you for sharing!
I looked at your Playlists and was hoping you listed your electricity videos and included a few more categories. Although, I searched for "electricity" and found several videos, so maybe that will make me happy. :D
Thanks for the feedback and am probably overdue to build out a few more playlists. Cheers!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Well, my search brought up some good videos on your channel. I wasn't complaining and I appreciate very much the help you are giving all of us.
O.K. AFTER 10 videos and 3 hours.... THANK YOU....1965 home....changing 3-way light to Xmas plug ... black red white.......thanks for a GREAT refresher. !!!!!
A lot of these small and important details are skipped in workplace training because so many people who teach just don't care. it's good to see videos where people take the time to explain the small things.
Brilliant, thank you, I couldn't figure out why the new outlet wasn't working with the switch. Had no idea I had to snap a connector off. Thank you
Nice Greg, yeah I bet that happens to about 50% of the people in your same situation. Easy to miss the tiny tab you need to break off.
This feature is described at 7:30 in the video.
Thanks for sharing the switch outlet. I was confused about why my brand new outlet made my lights always on and my switch not turning off these lights. now i know!
Glad I could help!
Thank you sir... Very well explained & illustrated... I'm about to install ( 4 ) outlets in my attic, a pair on each gable end to each side of my window openings... I recently installed ( 3 ) ceiling light fixture boxes on my cross supports at 6000 lumens on each light fixture. My goal is to wire off of the outer light fixtures to a outlet at each gable end & then run a extension wire off of each outlet to the other outlet, giving me a total of ( 4 ) hot outlets, i.e. always on... What you have demonstrated here will make me double check my light fixture connections where the hot, i.e. black is on the gold & the neutral, i.e. the white is on the silver screw connections & I now know I went out of code where I doubled up on a ground wire in the center light fixture, I will correct this with a pigtail whereas the outer light fixtures each have their own individual ground connections & again I will double check my gold & white connections whilst I'm in there one last time...
Just one final comment here, per the electrical code for better than three years now, the neutrals now go from 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock per the manual, if they aren't, you're out of code & amazingly enough, a good many electricians are NOT aware of this newer code to this very day, lol!
All the best,
Bill... :~)
Great video. One thing I always do is tighten down any terminal that is not in use. This makes it less likely of a terminal touching the box.
Cheers
Correct! Glad another electrician noticed that too.
Another good tip ! Or wrap in black tape .
Sorry I wouldn't have pontificated so much had I seen your post! You are absolutely correct!
@@RonSch123 îuuiiiii
Thank you for the info
Very well done! I have been doing this a very long time and I haven’t seen a video this good on switched circuits for DIY.
Thanks
Hey Frank, thanks for the kind words.
one other simple thing, that a newbie may not know. They should make sure to wrap the copper in a clockwise manner around the screw terminal. I know that's the way you did it in the video, however some may not realize that is the way to do it.
Thanks Mario, completely agree and thanks for calling out that point.
I was going to say this.
Very true, it pulls the wire in as you tighten it. I also almost never use a philips to tighten, I use a flathead or a hybrid (flathead/square) driver as I can get more torque to insure bonding.
Its videos like this, that i turn to YT to gain some knowledge. Liked and subscribed!
Didn't know some important tips and rules before watching your video, Thank you so much for your sharing!!!!!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Very good information. This was the best training on something that you don't think about much until you have to do it. Thanks
Hey Albert, thanks and we are always happy to help.👍
That was the best explanation , answered all my questions.
Glad it helped!
Excellent and informative video. Hints: Remember that saying, "Black on Brass, White on White." After attaching the hot and neutral wires, you should wrap electrical tape around the outlet to cover all the termals. When using the tape, you might want to remove the mounting screws. They will get in the way.
Worth noting always wrap the wire in the direction of the turn (tighten). Up from the left, over the top and down on the right.
💯Thanks for the feedback!
Agreed
Wow that was so useful to actually have a tour of the outlet and see the subtle details. Thank you so much.
Took a class a couple of years ago re: home electrical DIY tasks, but your videos made me feel comfortable actually trying to replace receptacles (and switches from your other videos). Just completed 1 switch and 3 receptacles. (No shocks, no fires.) Thank you.
A class? I was looking for something like that but found nothing in my area. Just assumed they don't want people doing their own electrical work.
@@surferdude642 ⁰
This was a good video and very informative to me since I am not an electrician by any means. I know a little and now I've learned a little more, thank you for sharing this knowledge.
Love the attention to detail and tips
Thanks Bob, glad you got value out of the video.
Thank you, I now feel confident to change out the old receptacles to the upgraded decora color matching receptacles to upgrade my rental.
Always tighten down any un-used terminals as well. This minimizes the potential for contact with the box and or loose ground wires etc.
For sure, thanks for the reminder 👍
I also wrap electric tape around the terminals.
Damn this is a major tip... I didn’t do mine and I just finished. Now I’m worried lmao
Yes and wrap the outlet or switch with electrical tape. Same goes for any wire nuts used.
johnson pham Usually it is OK. It happened to me only once when I was pushing a hot second outlet into a busy box. The wire were live, and I saw a big spark between the hot screw and a grounding wire. After that incident, I started to taped over the hot terminals in busy boxes.
Great tutorial, just the refresher I needed. I got the job done, thanks!
Very basic but informative for those who have never wired a receptacle. Coming from the UK, I found it strange to use black as the live wire because black is always used as neutral there. Also the ground pin is always at the top not at the bottom. I had to completely retrain my brain. Also having the receptacle independent from the cover plate was something new. I was so used to having it all one piece and with built in individual switches so you can turn off power without unplugging the appliance
Wish I has watched this 4 days ago. Thoroughly presented. Thanks.
You bet!
I think as well as showing the connections to the split receptacle you should include the connections at the switch to see how the connections at the switch make it possible to have a live and switched receptacle. At the switch you have a 2 wire power supply coming into the junction box and a 3 wire leaving going to the receptacle to make it possible to complete the circuit. Other than that I liked the clarity of your video,especially the importance of the proper amount of insulation to remove. Some receptacles have a small hole under the screws that you stick the stripped wire into and then wrap it back around the screw without having to bend it first. The little hole will always be under the right side of the screw.
Hey George, thanks for the comments. The hole you were indicating are those like the ones you find on most / all GFCI outlets?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs
And on higher grade non-GFI receptacles.
Great explanation and very clear. I like how you explained how one outlet may be controlled by a switch, and how that works. That is my situation so you helped me out. Thank you.
You worked it but didn’t mention that the wire should loop around the screw in the clockwise direction that the screw is tightened so maximum force can be applied when tightening.
💯 thanks for the call out. 👍
Yes, I noticed that, too
Tony Manero, but he DID connect the black wire loop Correctly on the brass terminal, no ??? So perhaps, he was thinking that people would watch and do it the same way..
Who installs recitals with the ground terminal at the 12 position?
I see a lot that the ground hole is at the 6:00 position. I was taught and it might be wrong, always install with the ground at the 12:00 position. Why? If a child is playing say with a metal object butter knike ect and a plug is partly loose both positive and negative terminals are exposed and almost always will shock you or potentially kill you. But if the recipital is installed with the ground at the 12:00 position in the same situation the first and hopefully only contact is to the ground terminal. Just a random thought.
@@MJ0U812 90% of plugs I see has the ground hole at the 6:00 position. I think it may be because a lot of plugs that are wired with a 90° plug that is designed to allow the plug and wire hug the wall. A lot of those plugs have the grounding prong on the bottom. I guess it also depends on where the plug is being used and what is being plugged into it. Another one to blow your mind, some older houses had the lugs put in sideways.
Best video I have seen on wiring an outlet. Thank you
I've seen plenty of back stab connected outlets catch fire, especially from space heaters. The thin blade like contact has much less surface area, therefore higher resistance. Whereas the side screw connections provide more ample surface area to accommodate the amperage / voltage continuity.
Good to know. Thanks.
Things should be outlawed.
@Sean Stevenson It is all about contact surface area. Backstab do not make enough contact and therefore create more heat at the small area it does (they tend to be more prone to corrosion issues as well). Terminal use (screw or back wire) have much more contact area. I never use backstab, nor do I use the device as the passthrough to another run by sharing the contacts. I always use a pigtail to provide a single wire for each connection on any device (hot and neutral). Always make sure to screw down those unused terminal screws.
I'm in the process of replacing all the outlets and switches, myself, in a late 50's mobile home, and everyone of them are back-stabbed. At the time I started this project, I didn't know there was a preference as to what method was preferred, but I'm glad I did it the right way.
Thank you for this input!!
@@csimet thanks for your comment. I’ve been looking for an answer on how to wire a middle of run outlet. Whether to run a black hot incoming to the outlet and continue the run with another black on the other chrome screw. Likewise with the silver screws, by having a white wire on one screw and continue the run with a white wire off the other silver screw. That verses using a pigtail to provide hot and a white pigtail to provide neutral. That probably isn’t worded properly, but your response cleared it up in my thinking. Thanks.
I F*ing love this video. I just changed all my outlets and kept blowing the breaker. That stupid little tab got me. Had a switched outlet just ruining my day. Appreciate these videos a lot. Thnx.
If blowing the breaker, you want to make sure if using more than one circuit on a switched receptacle that you are not using feeds from adjacent breakers as that would place 240 volts in the box. If the tab is not broken that means you just tied two separate hots together.
Another excellent video, thanks for sharing the secrets of the outlet, more there then meets the eye or the power.
Thanks Ralph!
I agree. Very good video. I just subbed.
Great video. Clear explanation of making one outlet a switched-outlet.
Thanks 👍
I agree with you. Don’t ever use those darn push in connectors. I’ve had a few failures regarding those in my own home. They randomly stop working, crackle, and snap sometimes with a load and with the heat and cold cycling. I’ve personally never used them for that reason but my entire house was wired that way when I purchased it. Also avoid daisy chaining the receptacles because when that push in connector fails on one, you lose all the subsequent receptacles in the line. Then you’re hopping room to room trying to figure out which Is the first in the series. I’d also advise to remove the screw clamps from the receptacles that come with them and use the screw alone with the hook around wire method. There’s almost 0% chance of failure. :) be safe!
Hey Adam, thanks for the feedback and example of the issues you have seen with the push connections. Sounds like a pain.
I’ve never had an issue with the push tabs...knock on wood. Agreed the screws are almost 0% chance of failure.
That’s why I don’t understand why people like wago’s, it’s the same thing as the push in connections on the back of outlets. 🤷🏽♂️
Mr. Sleep
Agreed. I used the name brand Wago connectors very briefly a year ago and while tugging on the wires in a 3 gang box, I pulled out a wire accidentally with very little effort. The point of contact to the conductor is just so very very small. I threw out the bags of connectors I had and never went back. They may be safe overall but they just don’t give me the warm fuzzy secure feeling that I get when I twist the wires together with my electrical pliers and then squeeze it all down tightly into a good quality nut. 😁. If someone is trying them out, I’d recommend trying to twirl the wire in the connector or just rock them back and forth a little. You’ll find that they are very loose overall.
The receptacle installation was done nicely and correctly. Now I can send this to my students since everything is remote because of Covid19. Thank you
2020 is the year of online learning for sure.
The red wire was not wrapped around the screw
If the box is metallic, (usually they're much smaller than plastic or composite boxes), I like to wrap the terminals around with electrical tape before pushing the outlet into the box. People tend to shake the outlets when plugging or unplugging appliances, and it is possible to arc the box with hot side (if the metal box is grounded).
Hey Erik, thanks for the feedback and many others seem to share your thoughts on playing save with a couple of wraps with electrical tape.
I was pretty glad you mentioned those push-in connectors. Those things are awful and should never ever have been included on an outlet. I'm pretty sure that's why my house burned down. The previous owner used them on all the outlets. I didn't get to the kitchen to fix all them where the fire started.
Hey Jake, thanks for sharing your story. Same as you, I am surprised the push-in options are still included knowing all the issues they can cause.
By far, the best explanation!!! Thank you!👍🔌
Happy to help!
Thanks dude! The tab removal just saved my dad $150 at least!
Code here to tighten in all the screws even without wires under them.
Good call out, appreciate the feedback.
Damn this video answered all my questions in the first two minutes. Good stuff man
I've been doing home repairs for 40 years. I NEVER knew that the small slot was the hot slot, why some wires were red and some were black, about the built in wire stripper gauge, the purpose of the built-in the wire stripper gauge, the wire bolster on the outlet, the removable tab to isolate the top and bottom outlet, or even the fact that the screw terminals are preferred over the push in terminals. One thing I have learned from UA-cam is that no matter now mundane a subject, I can almost always learn important details I never knew. Thank you so much. Like many of the readers here, I also notice you didn't mention how important it is to place the wire around the screw in a clockwise position. I figured this out on my own more than 35 years ago but this is the first time I have seen that it is "official code" (and understandably so).
"Black on brass", first thing I was ever taught as a kid concerning electrical outlets and switches. I also thread in the unused screws, especially when using gang boxes.
I’d say if you have been doing home repairs for 40 years and didn’t know all the things you mentioned then you have no business do electrical work. You have most likely been doing it wrong for 40 years. The hot vs neutral vs ground on outlets is very important and if you don’t understand the purpose of the wide slot and narrow slot on an outlet then you have no idea if it’s wired correctly. Your lucky your ignorance has not cause someone harm or caused a fire.
@@mrsmith8436 You are correct. Fortunately it’s only been my own home that has been exposed to the risk. I do always have black on brass, I just never understood why that rule was present. I still don’t understand why one side is hot and the other is not, since alternating current means that the current goes “back and forth” continually. My father 50 years ago taught me that “both wires are hot“ on all AC circuits. So as of today, I still don’t understand why one wire is considered hot and the other is not. Thank you for your thoughtful comment. Have a good day. Maybe one day I’ll understand it better.
@@thhall459 The neutral (white) wire isn't hot unless the circuit is in use. The polarized plugs help ensure that when appliances/devices are plugged in, they can be switched off properly, according to how they are internally wired.
@@mrsmith8436 I am grateful for your counsel. Thankfully the only place I ever did this was my own home which my family and I have lived in for the past 34 years, and so far we have escaped tragedy. Regardless, I have always put the black wire on the brass terminal and the white wire on the other non-brass terminal. I just never knew why, because in my ignorance, I thought that AC (alternating current) meant both wires are always hot, and that there is no real distinction between the two. My ignorance was bolstered by the fact that most electrical devices can be plugged into an outlet either way. Anyway. Thank you and this UA-camr for correcting the error of my ways.
I've watched so many electricians use the strippers to remove the insulation and then pliers to bend the wire. I learnt here for the first time about the little hole in the strippers - who knew !
Nice, yeah that little hole is pretty handy 👍
people who do it a lot will always find a technique that works best for the,. I don't use strippers at all for receptacles, because a pair of Klein lineman's pliers is the correct width for the length of the bare section and the end of the jaws is the perfect thickness for making the hook. the bending hole has never been quite right for making he perfect hook in one motion.
Really great info. Thanks this helps me a lot as I’m doing some updates around our house
Glad it was helpful! 👍
I noted that you rocked the wire strippers. That has a chance of nicking the wire.
Also, it’s best practice to tighten unused screws, especially with metal boxes.
Fantastic set of instructions - Easy to understand ! Thanks for the tutorial!!
Hey Alex, thanks for the kind words. Happy to help!
Very good, clear directions. I've done installs and didn't know some of the tricks shown here. Yes the loop should go in the clockwise direction. A slight but Important fact. Otherwise a very useful presentation!
I always screw in the unused screws so they don’t catch and nick wires in the box.
You should show techniques for pushing the plug back into the box. That is often he toughest part of the job.
The hook around the screw should always be positioned so that tightening the screw closes that hook rather than opening it up.
0
Thank you for taking the time to make this helpful video.
You might want to do a video that shows how to wire the receptacle when there are multiple outlets on the same circuit.
Great suggestion!
John Sessoms That should be as simple as using the other unused hot and neutral screws on the outlet to feed power to I believe 4 to 5 outlets max on a circuit.
@@koshnaranek2317 I would recommend pigtails to each receptacle in multiple receptacle boxes.
Thanks! I've replaced a bunch of these but still learned a couple of things. I didn't know about the hole on the wire strippers. Also didn't know about the tab/bridge for the switched outlet. While not recommended, I actually changed outlets at my mom's old house the other day without turning off the power. Carefully handling each wire separately and not completing the circuit....lol. that was a first for me but I couldn't turn off her power.
Excellent video. Extremely well explained and I was able to learn about the issue I was having with the red wire connection also some very helpful tips in general. Great job!
Easy to follow and informative instructions, thank you!
You're welcome!
Not to pick this apart, but, it's very important to stagger the wires when you attach them to the terminal screws. If you use only the bottom or top screws on the device, you are relying on that little tab of metal rated at 15a to act as a brute for the current. It doesn't matter which, but you should always have the hot on the top and the neutral on the bottom screw, or vice versa. That way you are not requiring the device to carry a load from one appliance to another, also if the device fails, neither port will work and you might be alerted earlier to that failure.
Can you explain further for a newbie pls?
If it fails I thought neither port would work? I didn't think the top screws were for the top outlet and bottom for the bottom....but maybe I'm wrong
I'm trying to think of how to word this. If wired like I stated above, if either outlet were to fail, neither would work, possibly alerting you to a failed device earlier. If you only have something plugged into the bottom, and the top fails, you could be using a faulty, possible dangerous device without knowing.
This was well done. Information was thoughtful.
This is great. I'm replacing outlets in a place I just moved into and the first outlet had just one wire to each side, the second had 2 to each side. Now I get why! Also picked up some great tips here, thanks!
Red also for MBC Green not always used with conduit. Many electricians just remove insulation in middle of wire and loop around screw as it goes to next outlet
Thank you so much for a great video. Really good teacher. I learned a lot. I did not know about the built-in wire stripping gauge and retainer features. Thank you! New subscriber!
Thanks Alan and welcome to the channel!
Those push-in contacts are the worst, especially if it’s an upstream outlet in a chain... I was having trouble charging my EV outside only to discover an unused outlet in my pantry was burning itself up because of those push-in contacts... I changed the outlet and went with the screws and everything is perfect now!
Others have started to mention the EV charging issues especially when plugging into a $0.50 15 Amp Receptacle. Probably will be something that NEC will want to address in the next revision.
I've learned so much from this short video!! Wow!! Thanks for sharing ☺️
Hi LaToya, happy to help!
apartment im working on is from the 70's the one outlet i had didnt get enough power. so i down grade the voltage with a smaller number. going to try with this type of outlet later
There is a small square hole beneath the screw (on some brands of Duplex) that you can shove the stripped wire into and wrap it CLOCKWISE around the screw. Insulation should not be under the terminal screw. ALWAYS have the conductor going CLOCKWISE so it tightens under the screw correctly. End of wire to the Right.
Nice vid and presentation. Good voice and not any superfluous crap we usually have to deal with...thanks.
Thanks Gary
That “tap or tab” you refer to is most commonly called a “bridge”. In case you didn’t know.
thanks for the feedback!
Test breakers OK receptacles still not power what can I search for
Absolutely never use the push pin connections on a normal receptacle! That's good advice! It is against the NEC as well! The only time I'd advise to use push pin type connecters is on a GFCI because along with the push pin connections, their is a screw for each side that double clamps down on the inserted wire thus making sure it don't pop out and it saves time having to loop wires and wrapping around the terminals.
Agree 💯
Those connections on a GFCI may resemble push pin connections but they are much better and preferred.
One thing that you didn't mention which might just be so second nature that you skipped it was the direction of the loop. wrapping it so that it will tighten the connection vs work itself out from under the screw. Basically, wrap the loop clockwise as you did.
💯thanks for the callout.
Very nice explanatory video, always good to brush up on this stuff.
Thanks Tony!
Fluke has the best non contact voltage tester
I used Fluke multimeters for years in a past job and agree their products are usually solid.
Best $35 you will ever spend is a Fluke non contact tester
Excellent video. I learned so much. thanks for sharing
Don't ever rely on the "so called" voltage tester. Also known as a "tick" tracer. They pick up milli voltage and can flash or beep false voltage readings. Use a "true" RMS voltage meter, preferably fluke that's shows the actual voltage.
Thanks for the feedback Angelo, yeah I think there are many who agree with you on the multimeter over the voltage tester. I am also a big fan of Fluke and had a meter on me daily for years.
They are fairly reliable and have a place in my electrical kit to do a first check that the outlet is dead before opening up the box. Also good for tracing/finding which breaker a wire is on.
Do not ever trust a non contact voltage tester. Osha doesn't even allow you to use them to verify a lack of voltage, only the presence of voltage.
I have always had a Fluke DVM and never tried the inductive though they might be time saver.
OMG, I've depended upon them for many years. Never had one fail me yet, but I suppose they only need once with the right conditions. I've always called it a cricket, because of the chirping noise it makes.
Excellent video. Concise and full of pro tips. Well done.
Despite those that are analyzing this to death, thank you, I learned a few things.
Thanks Dan!
OMG , I think this is the problem I have ! who the fek wires up like this and doesn’t write it on the breaker box I’m extremely lucky not to have had my biscuits burnt . I replaced a socket in my garage, only one socket was working . Turned the RCB of Replaced the socket , simple ! Disconnect the socket and copied the connections 👍 . Turned the RCB on everything working fine both sockets back in operation 👍. Went back to the breaker box because I had noticed one switch on one breaker in the opposite column was slightly out of line . So , I decided to touch it , “ I’m an Englishman and I like uniformity “ so I lined it up . 💥 I released the kraken 💥💥🧐 . It’s off again now and after following your video I realize my mistake . I’m going to cut the little piece that joins the two sockets together . If we did that in the UK we’d have 480 volts and a prison sentence.
Thank you 👍
@@philco7044 😂"480 volts and a prison sentence." Thanks for sharing!
The Death Analyzers are making valid points.
What a great teacher - thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Leo 👍
you should always check to see if there is a clip on the old plug before you remove anything that means hot side and neutral
the reason is some times you can have duel feed circuits and if they are out of phase and you dont remove that clip you have a 220 volt dead short and when you turn on that second breaker bang
this is most commen in kitchens and garages
Hey Randy, thanks for the words of caution ⚠️. Appreciate the help.
I don’t understand what you are saying.
Very good video ! I like the tips showing how to measure /strip the cooper wire . very helpful video .
Thanks Thomas, glad you got some value out of the video. 👍
Word of advice: Never use the stab connectors on outlets. They are notorious for failure. On switches you're probably okay using them because most lighting, especially LED, is low current draw.
Well then do tell sir, what kind of connector do you recommend we use?
Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks.
You're welcome!
Voltage tester! Who would have thought.
My husband just gets one of us to feel the screws, says they shouldn’t be too hot. Now I know why.
Builds character 😉
I. Should have married you
After all, your life insurance is paid up, right?
@@stevelux9854 yes
Ha! I didn't know about the little bridge that gets broken out for a switched outlet... Thanks... !
Two things to add. Tighten down those unused connectors and wrap the outlet with electrical tape. What's your preference for orientation of the ground prong?
Thanks I just used this and it’s really helpful
I do believe the stripper guide is for the push in wires, but it works for the screw fittings, perhaps a bit on the short side. Once one is consistent, it works fine.
I think you are right Paul, thanks for the feedback.
I never knew the holes on the wire stripper was for forming the loop. I always used needle nose pliers for that. Thanks!
No Problem!
here's the next mind melter: the holes in the "ears" on the receptacle are often also designed to make the hook, and I have even seen a few designed to be used to strip the insulation.
Make sure you test the wire for the correct gauge before using the wire stripper. By choosing the wrong gauge on the stripper and attempting to strip the wire, you can nick the copper of the wire or cut off some copper strands of wire if using stranded wire. There are usually two separate gauges marked on a wire stripper. One side is labeled for stranded wire and one for solid wire. They are not the same stripping hole on the wire stripper for both types of wire.
Am i the only one still using a razer blade to strip wires still??? lol give me a automatic stripper plz...
Never thought about those switched outlets. I am just fortunate that I have also never replaced one.
I've done a lot of my own wiring (DIYer) and found a couple of useful tips here like the guide on the receptacle and hole in the wire strippers. Cool! Thanks
Happy to help and good to hear you got value 👍
Yes great information 👍🏻
Good basics for the beginner
Clear , simple & Calm which is very appreciated. Thank You. I did subscribe, I like your teaching style.
I wish there was a video on how to stuff all the wires into the outlet box in such a way that allows the receptacle to be easily secured to the box.
Last year I learned it can be done wrong. I had an outlet that's been sitting happy for 60 years, but last year when the transformer on the pole blew up the surge shorted an outlet. Seems hot was pressed against the box's ground screw and the insulation thinned enough from the pressure that the surge arced to ground. I believe the wires were simply too long, all my boxes are tiny.
The code is 6" stickling out of box. For a new install.
@@jrstf The code is 6" stickling out of box.
@llkidd The code is 6" stickling out of box.
@SPL Builders The code is 6" stickling out of box.
Don't confuse traditional back-wiring using the push clamps shown in this video with using the side clamps found on better receptacles. For less than 50 cents more in big box stores, you can buy receptacles with a side clamp. I feel the side clamp method is safer and easier than looping wire around the terminals as there is less chance of a looped wire not being fully seated under the terminal. Also, novices tend to bend the wire into a loop so sharply that it creates a breaking point. Spend a few cents more and buy a side clamp style.
Agree that those are 2 different things and also for beginners as you outlined that is probably a safer route to get a properly wired outlet. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice refresher. Thanks for the tips.
Any time!
Also wire always needs to hook to the right so it doesn’t back itself off while tightening.
💯
Gee, nice video, I wish I had viewed this one a long time ago LOL ! Thanks a million for this !