Not a pro, I'm a DIYer and "enthusiast" - the only mistake I would potentially make from this list is putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit. I would've reasoned it is over-built and therefore safer, less likely to have a heating/contact issue. However, I see the point that it might encourage someone to plug in a load that would be too much for the wiring and breaker and then you are counting on the breaker to save your backside. It is worth noting that many of the tips and "don'ts" from this video apply to wiring switches too. Finally, I was expecting something about using an outlet as part of a daisy chain. Personally, if I was connecting a mid-run outlet I would use pigtails rather than connecting both the incoming and outgoing lines to the outlet.
I am a retired electrician with over 50 years in the trade. Your video is great to teach everyday people to how to be more practical and safe, good job. I want to add one thing about wiring an outlet with the polarities backwards. Reverse polarity does not affect how devices work, on the other hand safety is jeopardized because appliances, lights designed with switches to break(open) the hot wire. When outlets wired backward, you are breaking the neutral wire, so there is still power present and it is most dangerous with light sockets and when changing a lamp(bulb), accidental touch can result in electrical shock. Be safe and happy 👍😀
You don't? Or at least not you AND your Techs? You just let them clean up and you go for coffee. Boy. I'll bet they love you, and keep your back covered at all times, even if your someone who never needs it. Money don't mean Sĥt at some point. Its love and earned respect that keeps improving, as well as you "imptoving" them. They all know, at some point, ill break up my company, and 4 or four will get a share. They're bosses know that to. And the bosses are fine about it, because their never in a pickle on a job, their people won't fix. Especially the female Techs. They "KILL!!"
@@nothankyou5524 easy there big guy. Never said I was a sparky. Can definitely tell you are though…a bit high strung. And no, I never clean up anything…ever.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR LOAD, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Thank you for this. I learned alot. I have always been deathly afraid of anything electrical, but as a homeowner, I find myself doing more and more. This is SUPER helpful. Thanks again.
Don't be scared of electricity, it's good you're trying to learn! As an electrician it's a crime we aren't taught it more in school. Absolutely no reason home owners call and pay an electrician 300-500$ for putting in a new outlet and its circuit.
@@MikeHawkPEN15 I'm terrified of it. I was shocked bad when I was a kid, but I own a home and have had to do a few things so I watch 20 videos before I attempt anything 😂
Great stuff! Not just us DIY'ers do this kind of stuff. The "pro" electricians that wired my new house actually used the backstabbing holes. Even I know not to use those! I learned playing with my electrical lab toys when I was young, "LOOP TO THE RIGHT" :)
But it is so much fun to pull an old metal box, being held by 4 roofing nails, out of the wall to get additional slack to strip the correct length! That's assuming it hasn't been stabled somewhere and you are forced to use a Wago connector instead with a pigtail.
I know I've made a couple of the mistakes shown. Thankfully I learned the right way rather quickly from a close family friend who was a journeyman electrician. This is a very valuable video. In my opinion it should be on a loop displayed at every home improvement & hardware store.
As a retired interior remodeler, my master electrician taught me well. I have adhered to these practices and still do for personal home repair... Great Video👍
These are some of the best explanations of how to properly wire outlets (and light switches). Can't tell you how many outlets I replaced in my old house that were improperly installed over the years. I think I found only 1...yes, just ONE outlet that was done properly out of about 20. Excellent video!!! With solid wire I like to make a little more than just a "J" hook...after running the wire under the terminal screw clockwise and just snugging the screw down lightly, I then take my needle nose pliers and give that "J" a bit more of a curl...nearly a circle is made before I then fully tighten down the terminal screw. Full contact, and that wire is NOT coming out after that (just a tip I'm sure you've already seen, but many others won't bother with it). You can't be too safe when installing switches, outlets, or any other devices...it's just not worth doing it wrong or you'll be doing it AGAIN sometime down the road. Once again, excellent video!! Keep up the great work! 👍 EDIT: Oh yeah, and new sub from me!
Yes. I replaced my outlets. The electrician used back stabbing to install the receptacles. One outlet the wire had a big nick in the wire. I'm glad I caught that before any issues appeared.
I am in my seventies and back when I was a teenager I was doing most of the repairs in the house I lived in with mom and older sister. My father had passed away. I did pluming/soldering pipes, wiring, some carpentry, laid ceramic tiles, drywall.... and was self taught. Where I am going with this is. When it came to wiring I did everything the way the guy in this video shows to do it and I am not even an electrician. When I saw the "back holes" for the first time I was big on using those until I saw how flawed they were and then I went back to "J Hooking" the wire. Later I discovered commercial grade outlets and then started using those exclusively.
Thanks, awesome video. I upgraded all our outlets 12 years ago then suddenly on one circuit power went out. We found a loose black burnt wire that partially melted the receptacle and the breaker didn't trip!! I replaced it with a new 15 amp outlet and tightened it correctly.
This is a great tutorial for replacing a receptacle. Excellent for continued education or first timers. I recently completed updating all the switches and outlets in my residence. It’s a simple task, but it's also easy to make mistakes. Always make sure the power is off before you begin working. Additionally, inspect the wires for any cracked insulation during the replacement process. Since the wires are often bent inside the boxes, it's important to secure any cracks with electrical tape before seating the receptacle. The first step is in this video is very critical. Never disable your electrical protection by using undersized wire or circuit breakers. - DIY'r / Avioncis electrical tech turned electrical engineer
Absolutely confirm backstab/speedwiring failure and danger. In my daughters room, the lights were flickering and we thought it was the light fixture or bulbs. Did it for too long... I am embarrassed I waited days to take a closer look. I finally noticed there was something plugged in the wall that usually wasn't... I wiggled that plug and sure enough... not only bad connection, but wall was hot! Never use those stab in connecters! Great vid and new subscriber
@@dchambers986 It was... It was in all the way and when you wiggle the receptacle, lights flickered... and I actually have more than DIY experience as well as confirming this very point with a personal friend who is a commercial electrical contractor... it's a thing. Spend a couple bucks an dismantle one... you will see the inside looks ready to fail. Not trying to sound defensive, just want the point to be made for safety's sake. No skin in the game here for me. Appreciate the interaction.
Every Realtor should save this to forward to their customers to explain reverse polarity and other safety issues that often show up on inspection reports! Great video!❤
I've been working with a pyro crew the last few summers doing firework shows, and the point at 13 about not unbending wire, reminds me of how we ALWAYS chop the ends off and strip new leads when wiring because we've had wire break before and cause misfires.
Well I absolutely agree with almost all of your best practice suggestions and I love the receptacles with the clamps. I just noticed one thing that I would like to point out. In my program in Electrical Technician, I was told when using the wire strippers pictured in the video that one should use them to cut the insulation ONLY and not use them to pull the insulation off in one motion as shown in the video. We were told that this introduces a huge likelihood of scalping the copper conductor. So I recommended pulling the insulation off with your finger nail, or if you pull it with the strippers, position your hand at the jaws of the stripper to pull the insulation straight inline with the wire.
I rather enjoyed your video, it was training 101! As a tradesman for over 30 years, i always drew the diagram of how I took it apart. I found some ppl wired the stranded wire wrong and fixed as per how you showed. As a licensed handy man in Alberta, I can only wire back to the original wiring. As per doing my own wiring, I always have it inspected by a journeyman that certifies it for me before I install insulation and drywall. I makes life so much simpler. Once again, thanks for the video!
2.01 most older houses today have 15 amp outlets with 12 ga wire the trouble is when you try to get more than 15 amps on one plug! using a 20 amp outlet on a 14 ga thats got the proper size breaker 15 amp will only trip the cb or blow a fuse if you try to get 20 amp from that outlet!
Nice job….You are not just being informative, you may have saved someone’s life!! We in the field, see damaged receptacles and just say “wow” glad you are replacing this.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR LOAD, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Bravo! There is always something new to be learned with electrical. Thank you for helping me to making my DIY electrical work even safer. Excellent information.
You mean home owner who gives a sh*t. No pro is going to wast that much time. Remember how many of those connections he has to make so Mr. Pro is not going to bother because that will double his time on job. I am building a basement bedroom and wiring it all up and I will bother to pinch that j loop on each connection.
@@robert5 If he had just practiced making that j loop from the get-go then it wouldn't slow him down as he'd build "muscle" memory and get more proficient at it. Most of them are taught to do it the faster (wrong) way because "time is money" heh
I pinch it, but I'm not in the field and I don't make as many in a yesr as residential guys do in a week. Made properly, there is no problem. Or, just use commercial grade. Problem solved.
I'm in my second house. Both houses had mis-wired receptacles (the prior house was new construction). My brother's new construction house had miswired receptacles. My nearly new apartment before my first house had miswired receptacles. Problems include reverse polarity and missing grounds. I'm convinced every homeowner and I recommend also every renter should have an outlet tester, with GFCI test functionality.
@@Sylvan_dBHow do you trace the wiring back to where the wires are reversed if the wires at the outlet are ok, but the circuit tester shows it's reversed? In my case, it might be somewhere in the ceiling or wall.
@@DblIre It is probably not buried, unless your place was done with no consideration for code, which does not allow inaccessible connections (and hasn't since insulated wire became a thing). This means the problem will most likely be in a box somewhere. Start with breaker/fuse panel, then remove covers from other outlets and switches on the same circuit. I had miswiring behind lights on the ceiling (the last place I wanted to look) and in switch boxes. Lighting might be the most likely to cause wiring confusion because of using the white as a hot in a switch loop. (The last 20 or 25 or so years has required marking the wires used that way but not for most of the 20th century.)
I dont have any real experience doing home improvement but I have tried very hard to use common sense with any project I have done. I'm quite happy to say I have not done most of these mistakes. Thank you taking the time to teach. I'm going to inspect my recepticals that I rewired. Also going to look into them newer recepticals.
Can't believe how much I learn from your videos...awesome!!! And having the link to get those commercial grade receptacles in different colors is worth the price of admission. Thanks bunches!
I gotta tell ya, this is about the most informative video like this that I've seen. I've picked up alot of great safety tips that I didn't know. Thanks a bunch.
Look close at the work harden wire at the edge of the insulation. You ringed the wire with your stripper. That's your break point. And it don't take much movement to break. Use the correct hole of the stripper they are sized marked for that reason.
One correction and one pro tip: 1) You can only put 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit if there is more than one receptacle in that circuit. If there is only one receptacle on the circuit, it must remain 20A rated by using the 20A receptacle. 2) Directly terminating stranded wire to a receptacle screw is bad practice, regardless of the direction you install the wire. Use proper terminating materials like fork crimps for a much better install. There will be less of a chance of a hot spot.
If some regions the retail stores sell both certified and cheaper uncertified outlets. The problem is if a DYI uses the cheaper ones, the insurance companies may deny a claim if it possibly caused a fire.
this is so helpful. By far the most helpful video for a DIYer. I just replaced some of my outlets but I am going to redo them as I realize I made some mistakes. Better to be safe than sorry. As someone working on an old house, I can't tell you how appreciative I am of this video. Thank you ever so kindly for this video dear Sir. Happy holidays to you and your family.
My dad was an electrician he taught me well. Whenever I wire a house for myself I do "code plus one". That means go one better than code. For example a 15 amp recepticle is legal for 14 gauge wire..but.. 12 gauge gives you that extra safety for virtually the same price. Heck 10 gauge wire makes the circuit even more idiot proof if, in the future somebody adds on or changes recepticles or the breaker. My own house uses 10 gauge on all receptacles and 12 gauge on even the lights. For wire-nuts I solder the joint. A little butane jet lighter and low temp solder and you are done in 30 seconds. Then screw the nut tight AND tape it..all inside a junction box. Leave slack in the cables in the walls..that way when somebody hammers a nail into the wall the wire can be pushed out of the way instead of punctured. Remember folks..you wire things for your great grandchildren to use. Good wiring should be safe and sound a hundred years from now. Thats an electricians legacy..
Yes agree. Wire with 12 gauge but the breaker needs to be 15Amp. Devices shouldn't technically be used with larger wire and larger breakers. See it all the time. Convenience outlets. Once I saw a constant load of 18 amps. Device eventual failed due to heat build up (15amp device on 20 amp breaker.. It dryed up and cracked and terminal burnt with hooked wire. (Never push on.)
Daddy didn’t raise no electrician, that’s for sure…. Not pulling permits is going to cost ya a whole lot when you try to sell your house, or when your insurance won’t payout for the fire. Hate to be the NEC tekashi69, but you might want to make like those 3 blind deaf-mute monkeys, and burry all that deep down inside, cus you self-snitchin.
@@iamthundermug I agree with that - both copper and aluminum wire are soft enough to be mechanically bonded just by squeezing them together with ample pressure lol
Every plug in my house is wired through the back stabbing connections and I can't seem to get them to come out I end up cutting the solid wire just to use the screw terminals 6:39
Let's clarify something about outlets. It is true that a 15 amp rated outlet is only designed to handle 15 amps. A 20 amp rated outlet for 20 amps. However the load meaning how many things you have plugged in determines how many amps you will draw on the circuit. The outlet by itself is not producing any load .
DIYer here. I take the "J" hook one step further. (proper direction, proper amount stripped etc.) I take fine needle-nose pliers and close the "J" hook. Love the WAGO clips...they are fantastic for ceiling fan hookups.
excellent teaching! im one that has an inner narural need of knowing WHY😊 and you came across where I feel confident in replacing a outlet ( i watched many videos, as I always do first) your voice was easy for me stay focused. Thank you for your time in sharing your knowledge in the manner you did. Very helpful! ❤
Thank you for this. I learned quite a bit and am saving this video for future reference. I'm wanting to add electircity to my garage and just starting to research how exactly to do that. Ive never worked with electricity and am nervous about it given that i know so little. This was an important lesson in fundamentals. Thanks again.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
I have spent many a free moment searching for the combination bit drivers. Even looked in the Klein catalog (online) to no avail. Finding them here in your tool list was the best use of my time. I know a few electricians whom I have asked that don't know/own these drivers. I ordered the set having #1 & #2 drivers. Thanks.
Great video! Very useful and good explanations of why you shouldn't wire receptacles a certain way and why the correct method is superior. I would also add that you shouldn't assume that the existing wiring has the correct polarity. I've seen several situations where someone ran a new circuit and reversed the polarity on the wire.
Great video. I have a bathroom outlet that only works when the light switch is on. Had bathroom remodeled a few months ago and never noticed it because the bathroom doesn't get used a lot, especially the outlet. Now that I noticed it, what did the contractor do wrong?
They probably connected the wire going to the outlet together with the wire coming from the switch going to the light. Either in the switch box or they ran a wire going from the light to the outlet (which would be very strange)
The switch is run off the light, not from the gang of wires to the light switch. Lazy and or stupid contractor. Besides, depending where the outlet/receptacle is, should have been a GFI.
@@zacharymonroe1325 True, depending on the type of bathroom, also some are even wired from the receptacle, though in that case, it would be a GFCI. Still, in most of the bathroom renos I had done, a separate connection to the lights, and fan if there were any, was always preferred. The homeowners had a preference for that, once I informed them of the wiring setup.
I don't know that I've ever actually SEEN a 20A cord. So didn't use any 20A outlets in my house. Also, ran 12 gauge to all fixtures. Anyhow great video.
That's true indeed , When my mom bought a new condo , I've had to replace a number of receptacles and switches because when they wired the place , They used those cheap receptacles and switches and found them back stabbed which caused light fixtures to flicker and receptacles to cut in and out such as plugging in a vacuum sweeper , So I replaced them with commercial grade receptacles and switches And there has never been any trouble since , For safety , it's well worth it to spend the couple extra bucks for a commercial grade receptacle and switch , I never use those cheap ones , Ever , Plus the commercial grade receptacles and switches last very much longer than the cheap ones
My parent's house had outlets in the finished basement (circa 1964) that only had backstab connections, no screws. I assume they don't make those anymore.
Cuts down on material cost and labor costs (faster to stab the back on 50 outlets versus making J-hooks & screwing them down. Multiply that by 50 homes in a new development tract, and the developer is saving $ and time.
"That could lead to damaging whatever it is you're installing it into..." (02:58). How will swapping Active and Neutral do that? I get that it's a shock hazard (equipment can still be "live" even when a power switch is off), but not sure about damaging the equipment.
Sometimes you find things backwards. When I moved into my new home I started looking to add two new circuits in addition to the existing circuit already there. The existing circuit has a 15A GFI and two additional outlets. The wiring is 14 guage. When I opened up the panel to add two additional 15A breakers I found a 30A breaker feeding the existing wiring. Needless to day I changed that breaker to a 15A first.
12:30 - I LOVE this style of connection. So simple. Though what he’s saying here is really important, also. Easy enough to trim that but. I know in my home, that hook was made in 1948.
Retired service electrician here. On the reverse polarity, ac will not damage an appliance as the direction of the current alternates. However, there is a risk of electrocution. Also, a GFCI will not work properly if wired backwards. Unless the NEC has changed, you can use the 15a. Receptacle you are holding on a 20a. Circuit or else the 20a receptacle would not allow a 15a. Plug to fit into it. Last I heard it was the single outlet, not the duplex outlet like you are holding.
The 20a receptacle will allow a 15a plug because it exceeds the 15a requirements. It is compatible with both. It would be silly if the 20a receptacle worked only with 20a devices.
@@kd5you1 for a duplex receptacle this is correct. However, there are single 20 amp receptacles commonly known as a bullseye that will not accommodate a 15 amp plug.
Well, I'm actually guilty of the last one. I always though cutting off the hook was done because it was "easier" to cut it off and strip a new end. I didn't used to because it would shorten the wires and I found it wasteful. Now, I realize that wasn't the actual reason why. Well then, thanks. I'll start doing it the right way.
With my penchant for overbuilding things I’ve put 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp line thinking they were “stronger or higher quality”. Not any more! I’ll be using the commercial grade 15 amp from here on. Thank you so much for this tip!
This is actually one of the silly things in the video. You can plug a 20A device into a 15A circuit as easily with a 20A outlet as with a 15A outlet. The caveat in the presentation is, "if the circuit breaker does not do its job". That is NOT the fault of using the wrong outlet....and so not that fault of you doing so in the past.
Of course you can plug a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. The reason is just imagine even if you have 15A wire with 15A receptacle, if the load require more current with a faulty CB, the wire and receptacle will still burn: the receptacle does not protect the wire from burning if CB does not work properly.
@dave242able Yup there are very few portable devices using 20A plugs (1 horizontal, 1 vertical blade) so most of the time there is no issue other than making sure the thinner 14 gauge wire is securely attached. But, there are a few devices like professional hair dryer, some heaters, etc that have 20A plugs so in that case it would not be a good idea to have a 20A receptacle on a 15A breaker and 14GA wire ...
I'm guilty of the last one. I only buy commercial grade outlets especially because they're just better made, but I would straighten the j hook out because a lot of times the wiring isn't very long to begin with. Now I know better. Although I did run into two wires around one terminal while replacing an outlet and I fixed it with Wagos.
Love your videos!! Maybe someone can tell me how to fix this issue; I recently had some can LED lights installed on a new family room ceiling install. One of the can lights goes off after about 20 minutes with the light switch on (2 cans on one switch) . I have to turn the light switch off for about 5 minutes then turn on again, rinse and repeat. Any idea what happened?
If it’s an actual metal can light housing pull down on the fixture. Should be some “v” springs u have to squeeze a bit to drop the fixture. The connections may be a quick connect style u just pull apart or possibly may have a socket end that u twist out like a light bulb. Power off first.
This video showed up in my feed. It interested me. Very good info. Also, this video is a great example of a very good UA-cam. This guy did a short intro and got down to business. He apparently Knows I am not here to here him yap. I am here for information. Good job dude.
The current does not go backwards for reverse polarity installations. The biggest issue IMO is that you will have the exposed parts that have full voltage in the off state.
right, AC current flows in both directions, DC does not. The problem is electrocution since even with the switch of an appliance in the off position, power is coming up on the side that the equipment assumes is connected to the neutral...which it isn't in this case. It bugged me to when he said it flows in the wrong direction, that isn't how reality works.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
And one of the biggest mistakes that almost all people make when changing out receptacles, is not using the right screwdriver, and or using an impact driver. Yes I’ve seen maintenance guys use impact drivers. The screws on most receptacles can accept a Phillips, flathead, Robertson or an ECX (recommend) driver. Most people don’t realize it, but the center of the screws are actually square, which is the reason why most improperly sized Phillips drivers will cam out, causing you to switch to a flat head to get more torque. The ECX driver is like a combination of a Phillips, flathead and Robertson driver all in one, and is almost impossible to cam out.
There are screws that resemble a flathead/Phillips screw but don’t have a square in the middle. The center is deeper than the edges and one of the X’s leg is shorter.
@@akbychoice I have seen those. It surprises me that the electrical code does not specify the type of screw heads to be used. They have only had a about 100 years to make them standard. The Phillips were designed to cam out under so much pressure. I have seen some receptacles that will not take the square heads. There is a JIS driver that I have not tried on the screws that may work ok for those screws. Looks like a Phillips but is a Japan screw.
I wonder what you should do when you encounter outlets that are double stacked, or when you go to install a new receptacle but there isn't enough extra wire to remove and replace the J hooks, I suppose that you could use wire nuts to tie the double stacked wires prior to the receptacle inside the box and I guess you could also use them to add additional wire so you can ensure that you aren't going to have any wire deterioration issues but it seems like adding additional points of fault would be more counter productive than just reusing the J hooks that are already there, I suppose that the best option may be a better quality outlet that doesn't require J hooks at all and also has additional points of contact that you could use to eliminate double stacked wires. I have run into a lot of issues when trying to update their electrical systems because there wasn't any coding back in the day, some of the things I see I'm like I can't believe this place never caught on fire, places where wire staples were driven almost completely through the wires and you could actually see scorching on the wood around the staples or junction boxes with 10 or more wires inside of them with wire nuts with 5 wires stuffed into them, you can't seriously believe that all 5 wires are getting a good connection and who would use wire nuts inside their breaker box and why I went to a place a few weeks ago that had 2 15 amp breakers for the entire house and it was really a 3 story house including a full basement that had been updated to provide additional living area, the people had paid a fortune for the place and couldn't understand why they were having so many problems with the breakers tripping so the first place I went was the breaker box to see if there was a simple solution, and well I immediately knew what was wrong I'm afraid the solution isn't going to be very simple, the lady of the house said that when she bought the place the guy had been bragging that his father was a bit of an electrician 😂 I said I think he was trying to let you know that you were buying a lemon 😂 I think that guy knew his father was an idiot and he probably had experienced the same issues even 20 or 30 years ago I would almost guarantee that the old man replaced the original screw in breakers box, with this huge 400 amp box thinking that he was actually making an improvement. I don't understand why he decided to just add extra wires to the two 15 amp breakers that he had running the place but I haven't even looked at the 2 220 breakers he has installed yet but I'm not holding my breath that they aren't going to require anything. I personally would have been rewiring the entire house if it was me but they was me to just add additional junction boxes and run new wires to them to add enough breakers to eliminate them constantly tripping unfortunately this is a rather large family and they all use a lot of electronic devices oh yeah I forgot that the place has a 2 car garage with a couple lights and a couple outlets and when I discovered that the wire that was running to it was barely under the ground and not even an exterior wire I had to disconnect it but it was just jumped off a receptacle. I don't know think that old guy had a clue how lucky he was that he didn't burn his house down with him in it. I know that they paid way way way more than they should have for that death trap but hopefully I can get it all straightened out for them, I don't think the old man did anything inside the original walls since the majority of the junction boxes were in the attic and within a few feet of the breaker box and then of course the 10 plus wire nuts inside the box to add additional hot wires to provide additional power for all his additions. But I guess I will see when I get a little further along.
I like the wago connector but find that while you can't pull the wire out, you can still twist the wire in the connector. Makes me wonder how secure the connection really is. Wire used is in the size range for the connector.
I despise those connectors. A twisted pair of wires covered with the correct wire nut is a much better connection. They been used for years and no problems ever arise. The problem people don't put the nut on properly or use too big or too small of a wire nut. The new wire nuts that Ideal came out with are excellent. Push in connectors are ok with small loads like LED lighting. I use the Ideal brand of those push connectors for upgrading ballast to direct wire lighting. They save time and many times I must work with live wires. Turn off power when possible. 73
Electrical engineering trivia verifiable through Leviton tech support: 15A outlets are not rated for 20A pass through. If you break up some end of service life outlets and compare side by side that little wire bar between the side screws on a 15A vs 20A outlet, you will find that the 20A is more robust to carry the extra amperage, just as a #12 wire is required rather than a #14 for the same reason. The proper way to connect a 15A outlet to a 20A circuit is to pigtail it, dead end, no passthrough that would end up overheating with a 20A load running through it. All my frequently used outlets get heavy duty outlets, everything inside them is more robust, your heavier cords aren’t going to start falling out of them any time soon.
But what if someone plugs a 1500 W heater and a 900W iron into that 15A receptacle? The 20A breaker won't trip, but there will be 20A going through the 15 amp receptacle.
@@pcno2832 As it’s said, you can’t fix stupid. When it comes to safety from an engineering design standpoint for certain things for the masses is that you can’t save the worst 15% of the general public from themselves no matter what so it’s not cost effective to try. There’s nothing but your common sense stopping you from trying to boil gasoline on your kitchen stove is there?
I am suprised you didn't talk more about the ground wire since its generally uninsulated and a good portion of outlets i pull from the box the wires were twisted as the outlet was mounted and many times when the outlet was rotated to put the ground pin up as per code nowadays. does anybody make any cords that hang naturally with the ground pin up? All in all and excellent video will then and yes you do have a calm narration voice. Looking forward to see the other video you pointed to. Thank you sir i know you saved somebody's house or their Life there
I'll disagree. You can pigtail it, dead end it but once you plug into the opposite side (top or bottom) you're going through that connector tab anyway. The receptacle is rated for 20amps period.
Question on reverse polarity: I replaced a bad outlet in an old house that had the wires running to the wrong poles. I wired it correctly: hot to brass and neutral to silver. Was that the correct decision, or should I have wired the new receptacle like the old one?
Because it comes down to installation quality. It is true that back-stabbing is an inferior connection compared to sire-wiring or back-wiring, but the connection itself, if properly installed is perfectly fine. It is just that back-stabbing is much easier to stall poorly, reducing its functional life. The Code assumes the installation is completely properly. That being said, it is likely that they will be banned in the near future.
0:30 Please cite the NEC (National Electric Code) where it allows a 15 amp receptacle (or switch) to be placed on a 20 amp circuit breaker? Or where it prohibits a 20 amp receptacle (or switch) on a 15 amp circuit breaker. The breaker is designed to protect the circuit (wire, receptacles and switches) and not the devices plugged in to it (toaster, lamp, hair dryer, etc.). A 15 amp receptacle or switch is designed to not overheat, melt or start a fire with a 15 amp load, NOT a 20 amp load that a 20 amp breaker will allow. A 20 amp receptacle or switch is designed to handle 20 amps, which it will never see more than 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker. You are confusing the receptacle's load rating with what a circuit breaker is designed to do. Receptacles are NOT circuit breakers. Receptacles do NOT regulate current. Receptacles that are rated for LESS amps than the breaker protecting them can (and sometimes will) overheat and can (and sometimes do) start fires.
I don't know when it was adopted, but I believe what you're saying is backwards and unsafe. I'm not an electrician, so I can't argue with you. When you say a 15 amp recep is designed to not overheat, melt or start a fire with a 15 amp load, NOT a 20 amp load that a 20 amp breaker will allow. I believe that's wrong because you will never plug in anything that needs 20 amps as that would have a different plug and if it tried to draw 20 amps it would kick the breaker to protect the circuit as you said. And when you say a 20 amp recep is designed to handle 20 amps, which it will never see more than 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker. I believe you are wrong because if you plug in something that needs 20 amps it will try to draw 20 amps and kick the 15 amp breaker or could cause problems like fire. Also I believe 15 amp receps are rated for 20 amps, but not sure.
Serious question....I got a bunch of used, white 20Amp receptacles for free. I want to replace the old off- white 15amp receptacles. I have zero intention of having anything 20amp plugged into it, but would I be out of code and have to replace them if I installed them?
I have three outlets that don't work. What would be the problem? They are on the same wall.... Gfis are good and the breakers are good.,. What is your suggestion to get those outlets to work?... Other outlets in room work.
Reverse polarity is super dangerous. Thanks for pointing that one out. I only do electrical work once a month or so. So I don’t trust my memory on this one. It’s important enough for me to look it up every time.
Brilliant white to brilliant brass. Perfect thanks. No wait bright silver to black. Ummm Colorless white to copper. No that’s not it. Everything is black and white. That doesn’t sound right. Hey that rhymed.
I agree completely. Never just trust color coding. A quality plug tester is a must at the end of all of this to make sure everything is right. I like a self powered plug tester, it gives a lot more information when the circuit is not wired properly.
Great and informative video! Just out of curiosity, when was the last time anyone saw a modern device that had a cord that required a 20 amp receptacle to be able to plug it in?
As a GC I find the most common cause for for doing things wrong is knowledge but number two is not having the right parts or tools and just cutting corners even when knowing better.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
It’s only a receptacle For the brief period the plug is being inserted after it’s an outlet. Two different responsibilities. One is physical and one is electric. Got it sparky? Good.
I've been doing all the upgrades and repairs on my house myself since 1981. According to the videos I've watched recently, my house should have burned down half a dozen times, flooded at least 3-4 times and I should have died more times than I can count. I must have an expert Guardian Angel. I build my own cars from scrap too.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Are the commercial outlets in your link "tamper resistant"? I believe that the residential code for my area calls this out. Maybe it's implied due to being "commercial"? I like that they accept more than 2 pairs of wire. If they're not "tamper resistant" do you know of an outlet that is and also has the wiring style of the commercial outlet you recommend?
I am glad to say, none of those issues found their way into my work. I am not an electrician and work on my own house as needed, including rewiring and adding circuits. All code requirements are followed. No, I would not do this for friends. At the age of 13 I was repairing appliances. I had the ability to look at schematic diagrams and figure out how something was supposed to work. At the age of 15 I drew house plans for the principal of my junior high school. He saw me in mechanical drawing class as I was drawing a house plan. He liked what I was doing and asked if I could do a plan for him. At 15 I also repaired our color TV and other electronic equipment. At the age of 19 my uncle asked if I could draw plans for an addition to his house. I accommodated his request, work being done according to plans and approved by the building inspector. Perhaps I was gifted to be able to do these things, but I always analyzed the problem and made a point to do things properly and neatly. My father spent 33 years in the navy and became a licensed electrician when he retired. My wiring met his approval. At the age of 28 I was taken advantage of by a car repair at a dealership. No, I would not let that happen again. I bought the manufacturer's manual and plenty of tools to do my own work. I say all this to point out that one should never blindly tackle such projects unless he has the knowledge or will research how it should be done. DIY can save you thousands of dollars. And your extended family will always treat you with respect. 😀
14 gauge wire is de rated to 15 amps. 20 amps on a 14 gauge will never cause a fire. Yes that is the code but in real life you are safe at 20 amps. Loose wire is much more dangerous. Resistance on a loose wire is when heat builds up.
Also power is AC not DC so either way you wire a plug gets the same voltage and amperage in both directions. Not sure about this guy when first 2 items are wrong
@@zahlharrassgaming7837 Except that some appliances have the chassis as a ground point, with a 2-blade plug. If you wire backwards, you will have a 'hot chassis' and can get electrocuted.
Had a trailer i had to go through and swap half the outlets to as they had been improperly installed and were arcing out and overheating constantly blowing the breaker. All were backstabbed, all were browning and incredibly brittle. Im just glad whomever switched the outlets and electrical prior left enough to finish. However that trailer was an electrical nightmare and should probably be torn down. I like to think my "fixes" throughout my time there kept it from burning down.
on top of what you are teaching, i would like your opinion on adding electrical tape around the entire switch or receptacle which covers all of the screws. I also would like your opinion on electrical taping the wire nuts.
Hey Brother, I would never put a stranded conductor on a screw terminal without a crimp on terminal connector. Only if the device has a clamping typee terminal would that be ok.
Given the total number of possible mistakes, it probably is accurate to say most if not all DIYers have at least some of these mistakes. I rewired my kitchen and found wiring mistakes from an electrical contractor. It’s worth being very careful.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
The particular outlet you're showing is sold with many designations, but it's probably EATON 270W in this case. They are listed for stranded because they can take the higher torque required to safely make the stranded connection; 14 in-lbf. 12 in-lbf would not be up to code. Using stranded wire directly under a screw like that was usually not NEC compliant because the receptacles formerly couldn't withstand the torque required to compress stranded enough to make a safe connection. Under a clamping plate of a back wire receptacle is fine, the required torque is much less with the larger contact area, but technically you can't even use bare stranded under a grounding bar screw at the panel in most instances. Internally at NFPA they were pushing for strong language requiring a ferrule or similar constraining/terminating device to use stranded that will directly contact a rotating screw and you saw glimpses of that language in 2014 code in 110 talking about constraining the strands, but it was backtracked in 2017.
Be honest, how many of these did you find yourself doing? It is not abnormal for folks to find they have been doing 2-3 of them!
Not a pro, I'm a DIYer and "enthusiast" - the only mistake I would potentially make from this list is putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit. I would've reasoned it is over-built and therefore safer, less likely to have a heating/contact issue. However, I see the point that it might encourage someone to plug in a load that would be too much for the wiring and breaker and then you are counting on the breaker to save your backside.
It is worth noting that many of the tips and "don'ts" from this video apply to wiring switches too.
Finally, I was expecting something about using an outlet as part of a daisy chain. Personally, if I was connecting a mid-run outlet I would use pigtails rather than connecting both the incoming and outgoing lines to the outlet.
How often do you see a real 120v 20AMP plug? I used on of those for my work bench, but that's it.
None. But, I've been at this for almost 60 years too. 😉
80% of them ‼️ Thank God the building didn't burn down ❗
I have definitely used the quick wire holes. I need to double check, but I think some smart switches I have recommend it in the instructions.
I am a retired electrician with over 50 years in the trade. Your video is great to teach everyday people to how to be more practical and safe, good job. I want to add one thing about wiring an outlet with the polarities backwards.
Reverse polarity does not affect how devices work, on the other hand safety is jeopardized because appliances, lights designed with switches to break(open) the hot wire. When outlets wired backward, you are breaking the neutral wire, so there is still power present and it is most dangerous with light sockets and when changing a lamp(bulb), accidental touch can result in electrical shock. Be safe and happy 👍😀
Reverse polarity with not let furnaces or boilers run right
I guarantee this guy actually sweeps up when he’s done. Nice job.
👍
You don't? Or at least not you AND your Techs? You just let them clean up and you go for coffee. Boy. I'll bet they love you, and keep your back covered at all times, even if your someone who never needs it.
Money don't mean Sĥt at some point. Its love and earned respect that keeps improving, as well as you "imptoving" them. They all know, at some point, ill break up my company, and 4 or four will get a share. They're bosses know that to. And the bosses are fine about it, because their never in a pickle on a job, their people won't fix. Especially the female Techs. They "KILL!!"
I’ve never seen an electrician clean up after themselves🙂
@@nothankyou5524 easy there big guy. Never said I was a sparky. Can definitely tell you are though…a bit high strung. And no, I never clean up anything…ever.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR LOAD, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Black is Brass, Chrome is Common, Green is Ground.... how I was taught. it helps some folks to remember.
That's a good one. I was taught Black gold (oil). Silver was a white horse (Lone Ranger)
Black gold was the only word I was told but yours is much more complete for a novice to remember all the wires. 👍
Black/Brass (5 letter B words), White to white metal, bare copper/green to green/ground (green grass on the ground)
White is bright. Black is bronze.
I've seen some off brands use chrome all the way around.. just look at the slots/blades the shorter/smaller one is the HOT
Thank you for this. I learned alot. I have always been deathly afraid of anything electrical, but as a homeowner, I find myself doing more and more. This is SUPER helpful. Thanks again.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Clay!
Don't be scared of electricity, it's good you're trying to learn! As an electrician it's a crime we aren't taught it more in school. Absolutely no reason home owners call and pay an electrician 300-500$ for putting in a new outlet and its circuit.
@@MikeHawkPEN15
I'm terrified of it. I was shocked bad when I was a kid, but I own a home and have had to do a few things so I watch 20 videos before I attempt anything 😂
Great stuff! Not just us DIY'ers do this kind of stuff. The "pro" electricians that wired my new house actually used the backstabbing holes. Even I know not to use those!
I learned playing with my electrical lab toys when I was young, "LOOP TO THE RIGHT" :)
I've definitely done the "straighten the j-hook" thing, usually when I'm replacing a receptacle and there's very little wire in the box.
But it is so much fun to pull an old metal box, being held by 4 roofing nails, out of the wall to get additional slack to strip the correct length! That's assuming it hasn't been stabled somewhere and you are forced to use a Wago connector instead with a pigtail.
I know I've made a couple of the mistakes shown. Thankfully I learned the right way rather quickly from a close family friend who was a journeyman electrician. This is a very valuable video. In my opinion it should be on a loop displayed at every home improvement & hardware store.
As a retired interior remodeler, my master electrician taught me well. I have adhered to these practices and still do for personal home repair... Great Video👍
These are some of the best explanations of how to properly wire outlets (and light switches). Can't tell you how many outlets I replaced in my old house that were improperly installed over the years. I think I found only 1...yes, just ONE outlet that was done properly out of about 20. Excellent video!!!
With solid wire I like to make a little more than just a "J" hook...after running the wire under the terminal screw clockwise and just snugging the screw down lightly, I then take my needle nose pliers and give that "J" a bit more of a curl...nearly a circle is made before I then fully tighten down the terminal screw. Full contact, and that wire is NOT coming out after that (just a tip I'm sure you've already seen, but many others won't bother with it). You can't be too safe when installing switches, outlets, or any other devices...it's just not worth doing it wrong or you'll be doing it AGAIN sometime down the road.
Once again, excellent video!! Keep up the great work! 👍
EDIT: Oh yeah, and new sub from me!
Yes. I replaced my outlets. The electrician used back stabbing to install the receptacles. One outlet the wire had a big nick in the wire. I'm glad I caught that before any issues appeared.
I am in my seventies and back when I was a teenager I was doing most of the repairs in the house I lived in with mom and older sister. My father had passed away.
I did pluming/soldering pipes, wiring, some carpentry, laid ceramic tiles, drywall.... and was self taught.
Where I am going with this is.
When it came to wiring I did everything the way the guy in this video shows to do it and I am not even an electrician.
When I saw the "back holes" for the first time I was big on using those until I saw how flawed they were and then I went back to "J Hooking" the wire. Later I discovered commercial grade outlets and then started using those exclusively.
Thanks, awesome video. I upgraded all our outlets 12 years ago then suddenly on one circuit power went out. We found a loose black burnt wire that partially melted the receptacle and the breaker didn't trip!! I replaced it with a new 15 amp outlet and tightened it correctly.
This is a great tutorial for replacing a receptacle. Excellent for continued education or first timers. I recently completed updating all the switches and outlets in my residence. It’s a simple task, but it's also easy to make mistakes. Always make sure the power is off before you begin working. Additionally, inspect the wires for any cracked insulation during the replacement process. Since the wires are often bent inside the boxes, it's important to secure any cracks with electrical tape before seating the receptacle. The first step is in this video is very critical. Never disable your electrical protection by using undersized wire or circuit breakers.
- DIY'r / Avioncis electrical tech turned electrical engineer
Absolutely confirm backstab/speedwiring failure and danger. In my daughters room, the lights were flickering and we thought it was the light fixture or bulbs. Did it for too long... I am embarrassed I waited days to take a closer look. I finally noticed there was something plugged in the wall that usually wasn't... I wiggled that plug and sure enough... not only bad connection, but wall was hot! Never use those stab in connecters! Great vid and new subscriber
Probably wasn't fully inserted. You can have poor installation on the other type also.
@@dchambers986 It was... It was in all the way and when you wiggle the receptacle, lights flickered... and I actually have more than DIY experience as well as confirming this very point with a personal friend who is a commercial electrical contractor... it's a thing. Spend a couple bucks an dismantle one... you will see the inside looks ready to fail. Not trying to sound defensive, just want the point to be made for safety's sake. No skin in the game here for me. Appreciate the interaction.
Good stuff. Thanks. They should teach this in high school.
They did. For so many years. Shop class is now some sort of toxicity.
Every Realtor should save this to forward to their customers to explain reverse polarity and other safety issues that often show up on inspection reports! Great video!❤
I've been working with a pyro crew the last few summers doing firework shows, and the point at 13 about not unbending wire, reminds me of how we ALWAYS chop the ends off and strip new leads when wiring because we've had wire break before and cause misfires.
Well I absolutely agree with almost all of your best practice suggestions and I love the receptacles with the clamps. I just noticed one thing that I would like to point out. In my program in Electrical Technician, I was told when using the wire strippers pictured in the video that one should use them to cut the insulation ONLY and not use them to pull the insulation off in one motion as shown in the video. We were told that this introduces a huge likelihood of scalping the copper conductor. So I recommended pulling the insulation off with your finger nail, or if you pull it with the strippers, position your hand at the jaws of the stripper to pull the insulation straight inline with the wire.
This is the only way to strip insulation. Seen many times where wire gets cut and the loop fails (ie breaks off the end)
I've learned to strip insul. w/o gouging wire. Not at all. Using a new sharp wire stripper helps. Was taught to "twirl" the tool gently.
I rather enjoyed your video, it was training 101! As a tradesman for over 30 years, i always drew the diagram of how I took it apart. I found some ppl wired the stranded wire wrong and fixed as per how you showed. As a licensed handy man in Alberta, I can only wire back to the original wiring. As per doing my own wiring, I always have it inspected by a journeyman that certifies it for me before I install insulation and drywall. I makes life so much simpler. Once again, thanks for the video!
Definitely sounds like you are doing it right and take pride in your workmanship! Thanks a lot for sharing and thank you for the feedback!
2.01 most older houses today have 15 amp outlets with 12 ga wire the trouble is when you try to get more than 15 amps on one plug! using a 20 amp outlet on a 14 ga thats got the proper size breaker 15 amp will only trip the cb or blow a fuse if you try to get 20 amp from that outlet!
I am 76 years old and have been doing electrical and electronics sine 1966. This a very good video for anyone esspecially DIY's
Nice job….You are not just being informative, you may have saved someone’s life!!
We in the field, see damaged receptacles and just say “wow” glad you are replacing this.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR LOAD, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Bravo! There is always something new to be learned with electrical. Thank you for helping me to making my DIY electrical work even safer.
Excellent information.
A pro technique is to pinch the J loop with your needle nose before tightening the terminal screw.
You mean home owner who gives a sh*t. No pro is going to wast that much time. Remember how many of those connections he has to make so Mr. Pro is not going to bother because that will double his time on job. I am building a basement bedroom and wiring it all up and I will bother to pinch that j loop on each connection.
@@robert5 If he had just practiced making that j loop from the get-go then it wouldn't slow him down as he'd build "muscle" memory and get more proficient at it. Most of them are taught to do it the faster (wrong) way because "time is money" heh
@@robert5 Whenever some makes a helpful and sensible comment, there's always someone who finds something wrong with it.
@@robert5 Every licensed electrician will do the proper loop, it is the fool home owner that will not.
I pinch it, but I'm not in the field and I don't make as many in a yesr as residential guys do in a week. Made properly, there is no problem. Or, just use commercial grade. Problem solved.
Thank you for this excellent "safety reminder" So easy to make this mistake if you are not careful. We all need this little reminder. Carry On Sir!
I'm in my second house. Both houses had mis-wired receptacles (the prior house was new construction). My brother's new construction house had miswired receptacles. My nearly new apartment before my first house had miswired receptacles. Problems include reverse polarity and missing grounds.
I'm convinced every homeowner and I recommend also every renter should have an outlet tester, with GFCI test functionality.
Did you use a receptacle tester to find the mis-wiring.
@@Rhaspun Yes. Those 3 little lights are easy and sufficient.
@@Sylvan_dBHow do you trace the wiring back to where the wires are reversed if the wires at the outlet are ok, but the circuit tester shows it's reversed? In my case, it might be somewhere in the ceiling or wall.
@@DblIre It is probably not buried, unless your place was done with no consideration for code, which does not allow inaccessible connections (and hasn't since insulated wire became a thing).
This means the problem will most likely be in a box somewhere. Start with breaker/fuse panel, then remove covers from other outlets and switches on the same circuit. I had miswiring behind lights on the ceiling (the last place I wanted to look) and in switch boxes. Lighting might be the most likely to cause wiring confusion because of using the white as a hot in a switch loop. (The last 20 or 25 or so years has required marking the wires used that way but not for most of the 20th century.)
For the life of me, I can’t understand how anyone wires an outlet backwards. Especially a subcontractor who supposedly does electrical for a living
I dont have any real experience doing home improvement but I have tried very hard to use common sense with any project I have done. I'm quite happy to say I have not done most of these mistakes. Thank you taking the time to teach. I'm going to inspect my recepticals that I rewired. Also going to look into them newer recepticals.
Can't believe how much I learn from your videos...awesome!!! And having the link to get those commercial grade receptacles in different colors is worth the price of admission. Thanks bunches!
I gotta tell ya, this is about the most informative video like this that I've seen. I've picked up alot of great safety tips that I didn't know. Thanks a bunch.
Look close at the work harden wire at the edge of the insulation. You ringed the wire with your stripper. That's your break point. And it don't take much movement to break.
Use the correct hole of the stripper they are sized marked for that reason.
One correction and one pro tip: 1) You can only put 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit if there is more than one receptacle in that circuit. If there is only one receptacle on the circuit, it must remain 20A rated by using the 20A receptacle. 2) Directly terminating stranded wire to a receptacle screw is bad practice, regardless of the direction you install the wire. Use proper terminating materials like fork crimps for a much better install. There will be less of a chance of a hot spot.
#2 is actually not allowed in some codes, i.e Ontario. One must crimp proper connectors on a stranded wire before terminating at an outlet
@@TveTop agree, it probably should be a code everywhere.
@Tom-6502 I wasn't confused. I said one receptacle, not one duplex receptacle. So in essence, we are aligned in our thinking.
So would 20Amp with 20Amp/multiple receptacles work?
@bobthorn7879 yes
Been using those commercial grade outlets for a long time now. Discovered them 20 years ago. Cost a little more but well worth it.
If some regions the retail stores sell both certified and cheaper uncertified outlets.
The problem is if a DYI uses the cheaper ones, the insurance companies may deny a claim if it possibly caused a fire.
this is so helpful. By far the most helpful video for a DIYer. I just replaced some of my outlets but I am going to redo them as I realize I made some mistakes. Better to be safe than sorry. As someone working on an old house, I can't tell you how appreciative I am of this video. Thank you ever so kindly for this video dear Sir. Happy holidays to you and your family.
My dad was an electrician he taught me well. Whenever I wire a house for myself I do "code plus one". That means go one better than code. For example a 15 amp recepticle is legal for 14 gauge wire..but.. 12 gauge gives you that extra safety for virtually the same price. Heck 10 gauge wire makes the circuit even more idiot proof if, in the future somebody adds on or changes recepticles or the breaker. My own house uses 10 gauge on all receptacles and 12 gauge on even the lights. For wire-nuts I solder the joint. A little butane jet lighter and low temp solder and you are done in 30 seconds. Then screw the nut tight AND tape it..all inside a junction box. Leave slack in the cables in the walls..that way when somebody hammers a nail into the wall the wire can be pushed out of the way instead of punctured. Remember folks..you wire things for your great grandchildren to use. Good wiring should be safe and sound a hundred years from now. Thats an electricians legacy..
Yes agree. Wire with 12 gauge but the breaker needs to be 15Amp. Devices shouldn't technically be used with larger wire and larger breakers. See it all the time. Convenience outlets.
Once I saw a constant load of 18 amps. Device eventual failed due to heat build up (15amp device on 20 amp breaker.. It dryed up and cracked and terminal burnt with hooked wire. (Never push on.)
NEVER use solder on house wiring! Dissimilar metals create problems!
Daddy didn’t raise no electrician, that’s for sure…. Not pulling permits is going to cost ya a whole lot when you try to sell your house, or when your insurance won’t payout for the fire. Hate to be the NEC tekashi69, but you might want to make like those 3 blind deaf-mute monkeys, and burry all that deep down inside, cus you self-snitchin.
@@iamthundermug I agree with that - both copper and aluminum wire are soft enough to be mechanically bonded just by squeezing them together with ample pressure lol
@@3nertia never mix copper and aluminum. Aluminum requires special connectors also.
I replaced all receptacles in a room with the Leviton outlets and used the WAGO connectors changing a ceiling fan. I'm sold on both products.
Watch out, lest @david25786 will be calling you out on the terminology!
Every plug in my house is wired through the back stabbing connections and I can't seem to get them to come out I end up cutting the solid wire just to use the screw terminals 6:39
Let's clarify something about outlets.
It is true that a 15 amp rated outlet is only designed to handle 15 amps.
A 20 amp rated outlet for 20 amps.
However the load meaning how many things you have plugged in determines how many amps you will draw on the circuit.
The outlet by itself is not producing any load .
Wonder.. should the black and white wires be chriss crossed on the back of the outlet..ex..black to the upper outlet and white to the lower outlet??
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257 black wire always on the gold color screw.
White on the silver color screw.
@@spencerdavis5257It makes no difference unless the tab between them is broken off.
DIYer here. I take the "J" hook one step further. (proper direction, proper amount stripped etc.) I take fine needle-nose pliers and close the "J" hook. Love the WAGO clips...they are fantastic for ceiling fan hookups.
excellent teaching! im one that has an inner narural need of knowing WHY😊 and you came across where I feel confident in replacing a outlet ( i watched many videos, as I always do first) your voice was easy for me stay focused. Thank you for your time in sharing your knowledge in the manner you did. Very helpful! ❤
Thank you for this. I learned quite a bit and am saving this video for future reference. I'm wanting to add electircity to my garage and just starting to research how exactly to do that. Ive never worked with electricity and am nervous about it given that i know so little. This was an important lesson in fundamentals. Thanks again.
Nice job!
Clear, concise and very informative!
Thank you!
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
I have spent many a free moment searching for the combination bit drivers. Even looked in the Klein catalog (online) to no avail. Finding them here in your tool list was the best use of my time. I know a few electricians whom I have asked that don't know/own these drivers. I ordered the set having #1 & #2 drivers. Thanks.
Excellent. Always enjoy these videos.
I love all the new receptacles and light switches. The problem is there is no room in the boxes.
Right. Got to get new boxes.
Great video! Very useful and good explanations of why you shouldn't wire receptacles a certain way and why the correct method is superior. I would also add that you shouldn't assume that the existing wiring has the correct polarity. I've seen several situations where someone ran a new circuit and reversed the polarity on the wire.
Great video. I have a bathroom outlet that only works when the light switch is on. Had bathroom remodeled a few months ago and never noticed it because the bathroom doesn't get used a lot, especially the outlet. Now that I noticed it, what did the contractor do wrong?
They probably connected the wire going to the outlet together with the wire coming from the switch going to the light. Either in the switch box or they ran a wire going from the light to the outlet (which would be very strange)
The switch is run off the light, not from the gang of wires to the light switch. Lazy and or stupid contractor. Besides, depending where the outlet/receptacle is, should have been a GFI.
Prob nothing wrong. That's how a lot of older homes used to be wired.
@@zacharymonroe1325 True, depending on the type of bathroom, also some are even wired from the receptacle, though in that case, it would be a GFCI. Still, in most of the bathroom renos I had done, a separate connection to the lights, and fan if there were any, was always preferred. The homeowners had a preference for that, once I informed them of the wiring setup.
Maybe they wired it for a Radio to come on when bathroom in use
I don't know that I've ever actually SEEN a 20A cord. So didn't use any 20A outlets in my house. Also, ran 12 gauge to all fixtures. Anyhow great video.
Lots of new house builds have been using the backstabbing holes.
That's true indeed , When my mom bought a new condo , I've had to replace a number of receptacles and switches because when they wired the place , They used those cheap receptacles and switches and found them back stabbed which caused light fixtures to flicker and receptacles to cut in and out such as plugging in a vacuum sweeper , So I replaced them with commercial grade receptacles and switches And there has never been any trouble since , For safety , it's well worth it to spend the couple extra bucks for a commercial grade receptacle and switch , I never use those cheap ones , Ever , Plus the commercial grade receptacles and switches last very much longer than the cheap ones
I’ve changed 6 house’s worth, varying from the 80s to the 2010s all of them were backstabbed. This has been a common practice for a long time
My parent's house had outlets in the finished basement (circa 1964) that only had backstab connections, no screws. I assume they don't make those anymore.
Cuts down on material cost and labor costs (faster to stab the back on 50 outlets versus making J-hooks & screwing them down. Multiply that by 50 homes in a new development tract, and the developer is saving $ and time.
Most of my Recepticle get very rare plugging into and unplugging. ..
Most get plugged in once ...and stay that way ...😂😂@@ironmartysharpe8293
"That could lead to damaging whatever it is you're installing it into..." (02:58).
How will swapping Active and Neutral do that? I get that it's a shock hazard (equipment can still be "live" even when a power switch is off), but not sure about damaging the equipment.
Sometimes you find things backwards. When I moved into my new home I started looking to add two new circuits in addition to the existing circuit already there. The existing circuit has a 15A GFI and two additional outlets. The wiring is 14 guage. When I opened up the panel to add two additional 15A breakers I found a 30A breaker feeding the existing wiring. Needless to day I changed that breaker to a 15A first.
12:30 - I LOVE this style of connection. So simple.
Though what he’s saying here is really important, also. Easy enough to trim that but. I know in my home, that hook was made in 1948.
Retired service electrician here.
On the reverse polarity, ac will not damage an appliance as the direction of the current alternates. However, there is a risk of electrocution. Also, a GFCI will not work properly if wired backwards. Unless the NEC has changed, you can use the 15a. Receptacle you are holding on a 20a. Circuit or else the 20a receptacle would not allow a 15a. Plug to fit into it. Last I heard it was the single outlet, not the duplex outlet like you are holding.
The 20a receptacle will allow a 15a plug because it exceeds the 15a requirements. It is compatible with both. It would be silly if the 20a receptacle worked only with 20a devices.
@@kd5you1 for a duplex receptacle this is correct. However, there are single 20 amp receptacles commonly known as a bullseye that will not accommodate a 15 amp plug.
Liking to help drive this out to folks new to wiring. I've had to rework a lot of circuits that had failed because of 2 or 3 of these examples!
Well, I'm actually guilty of the last one. I always though cutting off the hook was done because it was "easier" to cut it off and strip a new end. I didn't used to because it would shorten the wires and I found it wasteful. Now, I realize that wasn't the actual reason why. Well then, thanks. I'll start doing it the right way.
Adam I throughly enjoy your instructive videos!!!👏👏👏 As a handy woman i welcome great access to good sound knowledge. Thanks.
With my penchant for overbuilding things I’ve put 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp line thinking they were “stronger or higher quality”. Not any more! I’ll be using the commercial grade 15 amp from here on. Thank you so much for this tip!
This is actually one of the silly things in the video. You can plug a 20A device into a 15A circuit as easily with a 20A outlet as with a 15A outlet. The caveat in the presentation is, "if the circuit breaker does not do its job". That is NOT the fault of using the wrong outlet....and so not that fault of you doing so in the past.
Of course you can plug a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. The reason is just imagine even if you have 15A wire with 15A receptacle, if the load require more current with a faulty CB, the wire and receptacle will still burn: the receptacle does not protect the wire from burning if CB does not work properly.
🤦🤦🤦
He is wrong. Your thinking is correct. Electrician, 35 years, contractor for 20 of those.
@dave242able Yup there are very few portable devices using 20A plugs (1 horizontal, 1 vertical blade) so most of the time there is no issue other than making sure the thinner 14 gauge wire is securely attached. But, there are a few devices like professional hair dryer, some heaters, etc that have 20A plugs so in that case it would not be a good idea to have a 20A receptacle on a 15A breaker and 14GA wire ...
Bout to do a bunch of these in my own home. Nice work bro.
I'm guilty of the last one. I only buy commercial grade outlets especially because they're just better made, but I would straighten the j hook out because a lot of times the wiring isn't very long to begin with. Now I know better. Although I did run into two wires around one terminal while replacing an outlet and I fixed it with Wagos.
Very helpful video. Clear and concise, as well as ably presented. Nice.
Love your videos!! Maybe someone can tell me how to fix this issue; I recently had some can LED lights installed on a new family room ceiling install. One of the can lights goes off after about 20 minutes with the light switch on (2 cans on one switch) . I have to turn the light switch off for about 5 minutes then turn on again, rinse and repeat. Any idea what happened?
It sounds like the chinesium LED driver is getting too hot.
@@tedr35 yep. defective fixture is overheating and going into safety shutdown.
@@tedr35 Thank you for the information. Since the can and light are hard-wired in, do I need an electrician to install a new one?
If it’s an actual metal can light housing pull down on the fixture. Should be some “v” springs u have to squeeze a bit to drop the fixture. The connections may be a quick connect style u just pull apart or possibly may have a socket end that u twist out like a light bulb. Power off first.
@@Jeff1960G you do not. the LED element will be some form of toolless connector.
This video showed up in my feed. It interested me. Very good info.
Also, this video is a great example of a very good UA-cam. This guy did a short intro and got down to business. He apparently
Knows I am not here to here him yap. I am here for information.
Good job dude.
The current does not go backwards for reverse polarity installations.
The biggest issue IMO is that you will have the exposed parts that have full voltage in the off state.
right, AC current flows in both directions, DC does not. The problem is electrocution since even with the switch of an appliance in the off position, power is coming up on the side that the equipment assumes is connected to the neutral...which it isn't in this case. It bugged me to when he said it flows in the wrong direction, that isn't how reality works.
I’m a aspiring electrician, thanks for these tips.
All good instructions for the young folks and correct reminders for the Pros....Well done, thanks.
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Ralph!
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
thanks for the video , one question sometimes the wire inside the wall very short and make hard to install new outlet
And one of the biggest mistakes that almost all people make when changing out receptacles, is not using the right screwdriver, and or using an impact driver. Yes I’ve seen maintenance guys use impact drivers.
The screws on most receptacles can accept a Phillips, flathead, Robertson or an ECX (recommend) driver.
Most people don’t realize it, but the center of the screws are actually square, which is the reason why most improperly sized Phillips drivers will cam out, causing you to switch to a flat head to get more torque.
The ECX driver is like a combination of a Phillips, flathead and Robertson driver all in one, and is almost impossible to cam out.
There are screws that resemble a flathead/Phillips screw but don’t have a square in the middle. The center is deeper than the edges and one of the X’s leg is shorter.
@@akbychoice I have seen those. It surprises me that the electrical code does not specify the type of screw heads to be used. They have only had a about 100 years to make them standard. The Phillips were designed to cam out under so much pressure. I have seen some receptacles that will not take the square heads. There is a JIS driver that I have not tried on the screws that may work ok for those screws. Looks like a Phillips but is a Japan screw.
Hang out on a job site - almost all commercial builder sparkies use impact drivers now.
I have an ECX screwdriver.
What a PITA!
I never use it anymore.
It must be dead straight to work.
And it is too long! Why?
@@VideoArchiveGuy I’m on one now 😂
I wonder what you should do when you encounter outlets that are double stacked, or when you go to install a new receptacle but there isn't enough extra wire to remove and replace the J hooks, I suppose that you could use wire nuts to tie the double stacked wires prior to the receptacle inside the box and I guess you could also use them to add additional wire so you can ensure that you aren't going to have any wire deterioration issues but it seems like adding additional points of fault would be more counter productive than just reusing the J hooks that are already there, I suppose that the best option may be a better quality outlet that doesn't require J hooks at all and also has additional points of contact that you could use to eliminate double stacked wires. I have run into a lot of issues when trying to update their electrical systems because there wasn't any coding back in the day, some of the things I see I'm like I can't believe this place never caught on fire, places where wire staples were driven almost completely through the wires and you could actually see scorching on the wood around the staples or junction boxes with 10 or more wires inside of them with wire nuts with 5 wires stuffed into them, you can't seriously believe that all 5 wires are getting a good connection and who would use wire nuts inside their breaker box and why I went to a place a few weeks ago that had 2 15 amp breakers for the entire house and it was really a 3 story house including a full basement that had been updated to provide additional living area, the people had paid a fortune for the place and couldn't understand why they were having so many problems with the breakers tripping so the first place I went was the breaker box to see if there was a simple solution, and well I immediately knew what was wrong I'm afraid the solution isn't going to be very simple, the lady of the house said that when she bought the place the guy had been bragging that his father was a bit of an electrician 😂 I said I think he was trying to let you know that you were buying a lemon 😂 I think that guy knew his father was an idiot and he probably had experienced the same issues even 20 or 30 years ago I would almost guarantee that the old man replaced the original screw in breakers box, with this huge 400 amp box thinking that he was actually making an improvement. I don't understand why he decided to just add extra wires to the two 15 amp breakers that he had running the place but I haven't even looked at the 2 220 breakers he has installed yet but I'm not holding my breath that they aren't going to require anything. I personally would have been rewiring the entire house if it was me but they was me to just add additional junction boxes and run new wires to them to add enough breakers to eliminate them constantly tripping unfortunately this is a rather large family and they all use a lot of electronic devices oh yeah I forgot that the place has a 2 car garage with a couple lights and a couple outlets and when I discovered that the wire that was running to it was barely under the ground and not even an exterior wire I had to disconnect it but it was just jumped off a receptacle. I don't know think that old guy had a clue how lucky he was that he didn't burn his house down with him in it. I know that they paid way way way more than they should have for that death trap but hopefully I can get it all straightened out for them, I don't think the old man did anything inside the original walls since the majority of the junction boxes were in the attic and within a few feet of the breaker box and then of course the 10 plus wire nuts inside the box to add additional hot wires to provide additional power for all his additions. But I guess I will see when I get a little further along.
I like the wago connector but find that while you can't pull the wire out, you can still twist the wire in the connector. Makes me wonder how secure the connection really is. Wire used is in the size range for the connector.
I despise those connectors. A twisted pair of wires covered with the correct wire nut is a much better connection. They been used for years and no problems ever arise. The problem people don't put the nut on properly or use too big or too small of a wire nut. The new wire nuts that Ideal came out with are excellent. Push in connectors are ok with small loads like LED lighting. I use the Ideal brand of those push connectors for upgrading ballast to direct wire lighting. They save time and many times I must work with live wires. Turn off power when possible. 73
@@ronb6182 Wagos have been used for decades in Europe without issues.
Super good video covering many different things and covering them with great explanations as well! Very helpful indeed!
Electrical engineering trivia verifiable through Leviton tech support: 15A outlets are not rated for 20A pass through. If you break up some end of service life outlets and compare side by side that little wire bar between the side screws on a 15A vs 20A outlet, you will find that the 20A is more robust to carry the extra amperage, just as a #12 wire is required rather than a #14 for the same reason.
The proper way to connect a 15A outlet to a 20A circuit is to pigtail it, dead end, no passthrough that would end up overheating with a 20A load running through it.
All my frequently used outlets get heavy duty outlets, everything inside them is more robust, your heavier cords aren’t going to start falling out of them any time soon.
But what if someone plugs a 1500 W heater and a 900W iron into that 15A receptacle? The 20A breaker won't trip, but there will be 20A going through the 15 amp receptacle.
@@pcno2832 As it’s said, you can’t fix stupid. When it comes to safety from an engineering design standpoint for certain things for the masses is that you can’t save the worst 15% of the general public from themselves no matter what so it’s not cost effective to try. There’s nothing but your common sense stopping you from trying to boil gasoline on your kitchen stove is there?
I am suprised you didn't talk more about the ground wire since its generally uninsulated and a good portion of outlets i pull from the box the wires were twisted as the outlet was mounted and many times when the outlet was rotated to put the ground pin up as per code nowadays.
does anybody make any cords that hang naturally with the ground pin up?
All in all and excellent video will then and yes you do have a calm narration voice.
Looking forward to see the other video you pointed to.
Thank you sir i know you saved somebody's house or their Life there
I'll disagree. You can pigtail it, dead end it but once you plug into the opposite side (top or bottom) you're going through that connector tab anyway. The receptacle is rated for 20amps period.
@@DonleyWilson-yi2ttcite a code article on the ground being up with a plastic wall plate. I'll wait.
Question on reverse polarity: I replaced a bad outlet in an old house that had the wires running to the wrong poles. I wired it correctly: hot to brass and neutral to silver. Was that the correct decision, or should I have wired the new receptacle like the old one?
I'm amazed that the speed wiring holes haven't been banned.
Because it comes down to installation quality. It is true that back-stabbing is an inferior connection compared to sire-wiring or back-wiring, but the connection itself, if properly installed is perfectly fine. It is just that back-stabbing is much easier to stall poorly, reducing its functional life. The Code assumes the installation is completely properly. That being said, it is likely that they will be banned in the near future.
0:30 Please cite the NEC (National Electric Code) where it allows a 15 amp receptacle (or switch) to be placed on a 20 amp circuit breaker? Or where it prohibits a 20 amp receptacle (or switch) on a 15 amp circuit breaker. The breaker is designed to protect the circuit (wire, receptacles and switches) and not the devices plugged in to it (toaster, lamp, hair dryer, etc.). A 15 amp receptacle or switch is designed to not overheat, melt or start a fire with a 15 amp load, NOT a 20 amp load that a 20 amp breaker will allow. A 20 amp receptacle or switch is designed to handle 20 amps, which it will never see more than 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker. You are confusing the receptacle's load rating with what a circuit breaker is designed to do. Receptacles are NOT circuit breakers. Receptacles do NOT regulate current. Receptacles that are rated for LESS amps than the breaker protecting them can (and sometimes will) overheat and can (and sometimes do) start fires.
NEC 210.21B3
@@furfur8368 Thanks, it looks like that changed around 2020? I guess I haven't kept up. Even so, not something I would do.
I don't know when it was adopted, but I believe what you're saying is backwards and unsafe. I'm not an electrician, so I can't argue with you. When you say a 15 amp recep is designed to not overheat, melt or start a fire with a 15 amp load, NOT a 20 amp load that a 20 amp breaker will allow. I believe that's wrong because you will never plug in anything that needs 20 amps as that would have a different plug and if it tried to draw 20 amps it would kick the breaker to protect the circuit as you said. And when you say a 20 amp recep is designed to handle 20 amps, which it will never see more than 15 amps on a 15 amp breaker. I believe you are wrong because if you plug in something that needs 20 amps it will try to draw 20 amps and kick the 15 amp breaker or could cause problems like fire. Also I believe 15 amp receps are rated for 20 amps, but not sure.
@furfur8368 it seems that 15 amp duplex recepticals are now manufactured in a way that allows this and the NEC was recently changed to recognize it
Serious question....I got a bunch of used, white 20Amp receptacles for free. I want to replace the old off- white 15amp receptacles. I have zero intention of having anything 20amp plugged into it, but would I be out of code and have to replace them if I installed them?
I have three outlets that don't work. What would be the problem? They are on the same wall.... Gfis are good and the breakers are good.,. What is your suggestion to get those outlets to work?... Other outlets in room work.
Reverse polarity is super dangerous. Thanks for pointing that one out. I only do electrical work once a month or so. So I don’t trust my memory on this one. It’s important enough for me to look it up every time.
Black & brass both start with a "B." That's all you need to remember.
Just B to B every time.
Brilliant white to brilliant brass. Perfect thanks.
No wait bright silver to black. Ummm
Colorless white to copper. No that’s not it.
Everything is black and white. That doesn’t sound right. Hey that rhymed.
Using wire color to determine hot and neutral seem. risky
I agree completely. Never just trust color coding. A quality plug tester is a must at the end of all of this to make sure everything is right. I like a self powered plug tester, it gives a lot more information when the circuit is not wired properly.
Great and informative video! Just out of curiosity, when was the last time anyone saw a modern device that had a cord that required a 20 amp receptacle to be able to plug it in?
As a GC I find the most common cause for for doing things wrong is knowledge but number two is not having the right parts or tools and just cutting corners even when knowing better.
Fridays and Mondays are 3rd and fourth.
Operator error is #5.
It ain’t an ‘Outlet’ Sparky, it’s a ‘Receptacle. 🙄 😆
Good Content as usual! 👍
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
@@BLACK-AUTUMN-MAGICK Wow!
It’s only a receptacle
For the brief period the plug is being inserted after it’s an outlet. Two different responsibilities. One is physical and one is electric. Got it sparky? Good.
@@david25876 oh david, you are amazing! I am blown away sir! There ya go 😝
Good point about the “not using used wire” thing. This has been a pet peeve of mine for a long time. Damaged wire is damaged wire.
I've been doing all the upgrades and repairs on my house myself since 1981. According to the videos I've watched recently, my house should have burned down half a dozen times, flooded at least 3-4 times and I should have died more times than I can count. I must have an expert Guardian Angel. I build my own cars from scrap too.
Great video. No fluff and solid explanations of the what, how, and why.
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
So helpful. Great teacher.
My dad told me...black on brass will save your ass.
funny cause my grandad always told me to remember blacks like gold and whites like silver lol
@@josephlaplante4235Not only is there truth to that statement but you'll never fail using it 😅
Thanks, I needed this reminder
Are the commercial outlets in your link "tamper resistant"? I believe that the residential code for my area calls this out. Maybe it's implied due to being "commercial"? I like that they accept more than 2 pairs of wire. If they're not "tamper resistant" do you know of an outlet that is and also has the wiring style of the commercial outlet you recommend?
The one shown is not tamper resistant. However, there are commercial grade outlets available that are.
Now I want another tool…a torque screw driver!😊
😂 it’s pretty cool.
I am glad to say, none of those issues found their way into my work. I am not an electrician and work on my own house as needed, including rewiring and adding circuits. All code requirements are followed. No, I would not do this for friends. At the age of 13 I was repairing appliances. I had the ability to look at schematic diagrams and figure out how something was supposed to work. At the age of 15 I drew house plans for the principal of my junior high school. He saw me in mechanical drawing class as I was drawing a house plan. He liked what I was doing and asked if I could do a plan for him. At 15 I also repaired our color TV and other electronic equipment. At the age of 19 my uncle asked if I could draw plans for an addition to his house. I accommodated his request, work being done according to plans and approved by the building inspector. Perhaps I was gifted to be able to do these things, but I always analyzed the problem and made a point to do things properly and neatly. My father spent 33 years in the navy and became a licensed electrician when he retired. My wiring met his approval. At the age of 28 I was taken advantage of by a car repair at a dealership. No, I would not let that happen again. I bought the manufacturer's manual and plenty of tools to do my own work. I say all this to point out that one should never blindly tackle such projects unless he has the knowledge or will research how it should be done. DIY can save you thousands of dollars. And your extended family will always treat you with respect. 😀
14 gauge wire is de rated to 15 amps. 20 amps on a 14 gauge will never cause a fire. Yes that is the code but in real life you are safe at 20 amps. Loose wire is much more dangerous. Resistance on a loose wire is when heat builds up.
De rated?
Also power is AC not DC so either way you wire a plug gets the same voltage and amperage in both directions. Not sure about this guy when first 2 items are wrong
It's code for a reason, safety. It might not be an issue the first time, but it will be an issue at some point. Better to just do it right.
@@-f-r-it's actually not de-rated. 14ga is rated at 15a period.
@@zahlharrassgaming7837 Except that some appliances have the chassis as a ground point, with a 2-blade plug. If you wire backwards, you will have a 'hot chassis' and can get electrocuted.
Had a trailer i had to go through and swap half the outlets to as they had been improperly installed and were arcing out and overheating constantly blowing the breaker.
All were backstabbed, all were browning and incredibly brittle. Im just glad whomever switched the outlets and electrical prior left enough to finish. However that trailer was an electrical nightmare and should probably be torn down. I like to think my "fixes" throughout my time there kept it from burning down.
Doing electrical work is not a hobby. These are good tips for DIYers.
It is if you enjoy doing it :D
on top of what you are teaching, i would like your opinion on adding electrical tape around the entire switch or receptacle which covers all of the screws.
I also would like your opinion on electrical taping the wire nuts.
Yeah good question. I've seen it in a few crowded boxes.
Hey Brother, I would never put a stranded conductor on a screw terminal without a crimp on terminal connector. Only if the device has a clamping typee terminal would that be ok.
How can you say “most” DIYers make this mistake? Have you done a survey? You can legitimately say “many” have made the mistake, but not most.
This isn’t some scientific research paper. It’s UA-cam. Relax
Dipshit
💯@@TBMWolverine-2023
Given the total number of possible mistakes, it probably is accurate to say most if not all DIYers have at least some of these mistakes. I rewired my kitchen and found wiring mistakes from an electrical contractor. It’s worth being very careful.
@@TBMWolverine-2023moreso the intended purpose was fulfilled in a fantastic fashion!
Thank you! Your video's have been incredibly helpful to me!
Thanks for making this video. I found it to be very informative.
Great tips! I will replace mine as my house is old and they probably never replaced. ❤
PLEASE DON'T LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!! HE DOESN'T KNOW WHAT HE'S TALKING ABOUT!!! IT'S ***ALWAYS*** SAFER TO USE WIRING AND CONNECTORS THAT ARE RATED HIGHER THAN YOUR BREAKERS AND LOADS, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!!! NEVER USE AN OUTLET THAT IS RATED FOR LOWER AMPERAGE THAN THE WIRING OR BREAKER!!!!!
Great video, I hate the "quick" wire outlets too.
Very informative.
11:39 It would be very helpful to suggest alternatives to double-stacking that are code-compliant; e.g., wire nuts, Wagos, etc.
Cool info. My question on the double stacking. Should a pigtail be used or is there another preferred way?
Thank you! *VERY WELL SAID & INFORMATIVE* ! I always say in my head, *BLACK GOLD^ WHITE SILVER* Thanks!
Can you use that receptacle with levers to replace all the old electrical that’s aluminum?
The particular outlet you're showing is sold with many designations, but it's probably EATON 270W in this case. They are listed for stranded because they can take the higher torque required to safely make the stranded connection; 14 in-lbf. 12 in-lbf would not be up to code.
Using stranded wire directly under a screw like that was usually not NEC compliant because the receptacles formerly couldn't withstand the torque required to compress stranded enough to make a safe connection. Under a clamping plate of a back wire receptacle is fine, the required torque is much less with the larger contact area, but technically you can't even use bare stranded under a grounding bar screw at the panel in most instances. Internally at NFPA they were pushing for strong language requiring a ferrule or similar constraining/terminating device to use stranded that will directly contact a rotating screw and you saw glimpses of that language in 2014 code in 110 talking about constraining the strands, but it was backtracked in 2017.