I was able to install about 90 feet of 6/3 wire using your video as a reference guide and saved myself thousands of dollars. I just wanted to say thank you for the clear, and easy to understand video. Anyone thinking about doing this project can absolutely do it, just don't cut corners. Make sure you get a commercial grade Outlet like he said in the beginning of the video, and based on what iv read it sounds like a cheap torque screwdriver will be helpful to make sure those terminals don't ever come lose and cause problems in the future.
Enjoyed this well presented video. As a master electrician in Michigan for 40 years I do have a couple of comments. First I would have used a 4 square box on the wall above panel, you would have eliminated a lot of stress. Two, on the outlet I think the sharp corners of the flush use plate may be just waiting for someone to cut themselves, a raised cover would have been the correct one. Also when working with a metal fish tape in a panel is always dangerous. A no conducive fish rod would have been my first choice, if not available I would have stuffed a cardboard guard inside the panel. Safety first !
My father was a master electrician here in Michigan as well (IBEW 692.) There were a few tense moments in this video until I remembered that if this guy would have made contact he probably wouldn’t have been “available” to finish this project 😁
Guys and gals listen to this man when he says "buy an industrial rated outlet" buy a hubbel not the cheap 12 dollar one from.big box!!! Those are good for dryers and such not a constant 50 amp draw for hours! I know the hubbel is 50 bucks more but I've seen my welders melt the cheap ones and your EV is drawing more then my welders and for longer. Don't die in your sleep over 50 bucks. Excellent video
I watched this video a few times and without any electrical experience I was able to do it in 6 hours. Instead of running Romex throughout I wired individual wires as they were easier (they are lubed) and then instead of the conduit box I used the same deep square box and connected Romex into the dry wall - they also have a follow up video with errors. Also don't buy anything from amazon except the Industrial 14-50 outlet (Bryant and Hubble are the same and Bryant is cheaper) - local hardware store is cheaper Enjoy, Be Safe and Happy Level 2 Charging! Thank you!
Especially for DIY’ers - if the appliance end is already completed and you are wiring into panel, ALWAYS check for continuity (short) between the cables before you land them in the panel. Once landed, it’s not easy to check. If you get continuity between any pair of wires, there is a short and you must not land any wires.
One of the best electrical videos I've ever seen. Details are very clear. I'm not confident enough to work inside an electrical panel, but I wouldn't be afraid to try.
Some good information...I guess. I would never pull NM through conduit. Code or no code. To keep it clean above the panel I would use a 411 box. It is ok to make joints with wires. I know some will cry that it is a potential trouble spot but not if you do it properly. NM in wall then THHN in the conduit. The condulet at the top of the wall is more work than is necessary. Well made video! I like the effort the young man made to explain things to DIYers.
Fantastic tutorial ! I learned a lot, took many many notes. Stopped , replayed , restarted so many times I lost count . I didn't want to miss anything. I spent over 2 hours watching the 48 min. video , couldn't get enough. Thank you very much. I will be assisting my brother who is an electrician in installing an electric car charging station in my house and I didn't want to look like a dope. And thanks for NOT having any loud distracting music in the background as so many other You Tubers do.
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The reason why he had so much trouble pulling is that the EMT he used (3/4 inch) was undersized for the Romex he used (6-3 w/gnd.) 2020 NEC Chapter 9, Table 1 and Chapter 9, Item 9 requires 53% maximum fill for cable in conduit or tubing, which would be exceeded in his situation. So 1 inch EMT, or individual THHN's where 40% fill can be used.
I've only done this once before . I put in a outlet in for my RV at a friend's house. 4 pole 240 volts. Now I'm getting ready to run another one where I park my RV at home. And I've been looking for a video to confirm the panel connections. You do a great job explaining the whole process, thank you. I enjoyed it.
You are an amazing teacher and very good at speaking about wiring to laymen, like myself. There are plenty of installers out there, less true professionals, and even less that know how to teach. Thank you for the video. I'll probably never do this install by myself for my Model Y, but it's cool to be more informed before hiring someone to do it for me.
I am a diy who has worked on a live panel. As an EE, I have a lot of respect for what is going on it there and take my time thinking through each move before acting. The only time I got stung was while neatly routing the new wires when I touched a hot wire the "pro" who installed the panel had nicked. BTW, that 120VAC sting was nothing like the 300VDC sting I got on my little finger trying to brace a scope probe on a small PCB the size of my fist. I was concentrating on troubleshooting the 5V and 15V circuits on the PCB and totally forgot about the small 300V circuit. It isn't the voltage that kills, you can be electrocuted with just 0.040 Amps of current.
I stupidly shorted the 340VDC leads from my 17.5 kWh battery on my home backup system. Exploded in my hands, threw me across the garage and sent me to the emergency room for the afternoon with 2nd and 3rd degree burns. This is not a joke. The thing is, installing these systems in my hardware lab was my job for over a decade. I was installing mine in my home and relaxed on the safety procedures and well I described the results. Safety first.
Great video! I learned something new with the freakishly long needle nose plier tool. I'm a DIYer, but in the past, I've used coat hangers and all types of crap to get that wire out. Good to know that tool exists. If it's less than $50, I'll buy it. Personally, I wouldn't use drywall anchors to hold such a heavy plug. Then again, I'm one of those people who overdoes things. I would have reinforced the outlet with wood supports. So I would have cut out the sheetrock, added wood studs, and added the sheetrock back and re-taped it. Lastly, and most importantly, the outlet you choose if of CRITICAL IMPORTANCE!!! While you can go to any big box store and pick up a $9 NEMA 50 amp plug (the kind used for electric dryers) DO NOT USE THOSE! Those are not designed specifically to have current running through them for hours and hours and hours and there have been many stories of those melting and worse, starting fires. Get the industrial kind, like Hubbell. As of me writing this, they're $80, so they're not cheap. But if you're going to spend $50K (or more) on an EV, you're already saving money by doing the job yourself. Don't have your house burn down over a few bucks.
*Appears that Joel is installing a Hubbell 9450A, 50A, NEMA 14-50R receptacle. This is an industrial grade piece as FedSpec grade is expensive overkill. This is better than good for extended duty-cycle home use. $90 on Amazon. Do it once, do it right and be secure in the knowledge you did so. Your clue is B00IPBMUKY. Cheers!*
I had 240v. outlet installed (NEMA 14-50). Need 3#6W+G (same as shown on you tube here) For Tesla. Once it is done it had about 30miles/hr. charge with 32/32Amp running. Then I installed Tesla NEW Wall connector inside garage. Require NO neutral. 2#4+G (No neutral). Wiring is much easier than outlet. Just pull wire from panel and passing thru back of base of wall connector (no wire cut). Loop to connect to base terminal. then snap wall connector into base and done. Speed is much faster 45 Miles/hr (48/48A) . Much easier than NEMA 14-50 outlet. It worth money to install TESLA wall connector instead of NEMA 14-50 (assume you have TESLA)
Great video. My 2 cents as a master electrician..... 4 square above panel instead of LL/LR/LL, fiberglass fish rod for wall fish, raised industrial cover for receptacle, and metallic outlet box must be bonded as the conduit run is not continuous to panel.
This job would look different if I did it too. However, did he violate code anywhere? I question if the box is grounded iaw the nec. Just found this one.....but 406.11 (recepticles) connecting the ground terminal to the box.....250.146.(A). Roecepticle ground term to box, surface mounted., the yoke to box connection shall provide the effective ground path. So the box is grounded as per 314.4? The only possible violation I can see is 625.54, which requires a gfci breaker for car charging (ELECTRIC VEHICLE SERVICE EQUIPMENT) recepticles. I only deem it possible because of 90.4 and not enough information from ahj. Please not 625.54 the gfci requirement ...car charging was not changed in 2020 so maybe for 2017 or earlier. Now, I consider myself an "A-" guy.....good but not perfect. So if I missed a concern please let me know. And if I have a reference wrong, yeah, give that written smack down.
@@keithharrington8715 I think he did a good job, but to answer your question yes. The 4x4 outlet box utilized for the receceptacle would be required to be bonded to be code compliant. A ground stinger should have been installed into the 4x4 box, which would bond the box, attached metallic conduit, fittings, and metallic receptacle cover to prevent them from becoming energized.
@@keithharrington8715(IMHO) The articles you are referring to allow the receptacle to be grounded via its yoke in direct connection to the box. Not vice versa. Not good practice either way and would be highly frowned upon by ahj if you tried to use this shortcut.
@@rodneyparker9912 sir, I would have attached the egc with a wire to the box and recepticle (pigtailed it). However, 250.146 says you can skip the bonding jumper if you do 250.146 A, B, C, or D. It looks like here he followed (A).
@@rodneyparker9912 thanks Rodney. Looks like you are right. Did some better reading and The yoke can ground the recepticle to the box connected to the egc..
These outlets are also terrific for powering large single phase air compressors and welders, and rotary phase converters to run things like used three phase industrial air compressors, welders etc depending on size. DIYers with patience can wallow in quality used industrial equipment for same or less money than consumer crap but having that large single phase outlet (or more than one since parts are cheap and you're in there anyway!) is key. I even added them to my rented house (with landlord permission, he was also my best friend) and took them when I moved. Look into the many products including cords, splitters and other hardware used to power RVs from these outlets. I promise it will be useful info if you DIY. Related note re: "cool stuff powered by outlets": I put my horizontal tank compressors and my welders on dollies I fabbed to use scaffolding casters (which just slide into a tube and are magnificent, get the round shank style) for easy handling. If you rent and put everything heavy on wheels the rest of your life gets impressively easier. You eventually need to move most of your stuff so if you make that low effort in the beginning you never sweat again.
I was taught that it is against code to install Romeo in conduit, besides it’s so hard to pull it through conduit. Stranded thhn wire is the best conductors for this project. You would need to tape the portion every five or six inches that go down the wall unless you can purchase pre twisted wire in the three conductor and size you need. Plus you should have used an industrial cover for the receptacle. It matches the 4 sqr. Box perfectly. The cover you used is for a flush mount.
Well, you can use non metallic cable inside a chase or conduit if it’s not a damp location is the basic rule, but there are a bunch of exceptions. As a rule, using individual conductors is a better idea since it’s always OK. To be honest, I’m not sure why you’d use NM cable. Maybe price?
The one comment I have is regarding your grounding path for the conduit. You go into great detail about ensuring your connections are secure, all locknuts and set screws tight. However, I didn’t see a grounding pigtail from the receptacle to the metal box. The other end of your run ends at the wall with no conducive path down to the panel. I know it’s not practical to run conduit through the wall to the panel, but without a grounding pigtail on the other end, how would any fault current make it back to the panel to trip the breaker should the conduit become energized? Did I miss something?
No. Each of the components of the outlet are electrically isolated from each other. For the ground of the outlet to be connected to the metal box/conduit there would need to be a grounding pigtail to connect them.
@@timcaron9049 theoretically yes. But without the wiring device in place with the covers on, the pipe is not bonded. And while a grounding pigtail to a wiring device is not required when the metal box is bonded, I don't think the reverse is true from a Code perspective.
I suspect the metal mounting tabs on the outlet are bonded to the ground terminal, which would bond the box. However, the other end of the conduit isn't bonded. I'm not an electrician, but I heard that both ends of the conduit should be bonded.
Excellent video, I didn't imagine myself watching this in one sitting but Joel's calm teaching style and work flow is mesmerizing to watch. Thanks so much for the collaboration, Scott and Joel! You guys both put out quality, well-articulated content. Also subscribed to Joel!
I also felt this video was very informative. I pretty much ignore the "let me see what I can criticize" people. 😅 If they posted a video, there's be others criticizing their procedures, have not doubt.
This guy is a hack electrician, die cast coupling, steel connector, mixing type of connectors, WRONG next it’s a 3/8” offset not 1/2” offset. If this guy new his sheet he wouldn’t run 6/3 romex through an LB, ROMEX IN A CONDUIT IS ALSO WRONG, DIY just have the guy at HD cut individual wire to your length, 40’ feet of conduit eguals 3- 46’ of #6 and 46’ of #10 green, individual wire is more cost effective than romex
I"m an EE who worked as an electricians helper several summer both before and during college. You can't know too much and it's great to watch a professional again as solar projects are coming up just around the corner.
This was a fantastic video to teach a relative newbie like me how to install a 240V NEMA 15-50 plug to charge my brand new EV. This was instrumental in making me feel like it was a job I could tackle. Everything turned out great - thank you!
It was great video. There are some recommendations: - Using glows and safety glasses are always better, especially when you work in a live panel. As seen in viodeo, even you as a professional can cut your hand. I understand you are a professional but similarly you could get shock. -You forgot to use plastic conduit bushings at the termination locations. -it is better to mark the high of box and cut your conduit accordingly. It can give a better result for box the high, and reduce risk of miscalculations. -Better to kill the power before start, since your fish teyp is not the plastic one, you could make a short-circuit. Thank you for the video and fishing tips.
When working in a live panel with or without a fish tape ( finer glass ) I always Cover with cardboard . In this case I would push the card board in on the top right in case I let locknut fall - If would slide out onto the floor . I also squirt some lube in end of the EMT as I install - much easier to pull on long runs and around bends.
Too many things to comment on. Not what I would consider a pro job. Retired master electrician. Never worked in a place that would allow a three or four inch chase nipple in the top of the panel and allow all the circuits to run through it. Amazing. Also, if you're going to work on a live panel (And I recommend a DIYer never do such a thing), take a piece of cardboard and tape it over the panel on three sides allowing just enough room to push the top of the cardboard into the panel so that you can insert your fish tape through the top knockout. This should keep you from contacting any live circuits when that fish tape accidentally flops around. Nowadays, they actually have fiberglass fish tapes which would be a lot safer for this job. I also spent 20 years as a paramedic and took countless DIYers to the ER for attempting jobs like this on live panels. JMO.
i don't think this guy knows enough about this to be posting videos. i'm not an electrician, but even i know this wasn't done right. of course i been at it a while and i've done a lot of research on this. even if i was just running 110 i wouldn't have done it this way.
There are old electricians and their are bold electricians. Not too many old and bold electricians. I don't work on live distribution boxes if I can possibly avoid it. Being a woman, I don't have to compensate for 'shortcomings' by taking unnecessary risks. Great video, cute sparky. I believe 3/4" conduit is too small for current code on #6, I'd have gone up to 1" and lube is your friend.
I’m trying to figure out why he ran 6-3 through conduit - couldn’t he have saved a lot of time and money by running individual THHN/THWN wires? Isn’t the shielding of the 6-3 overkill? And as you mentioned - doesn’t he want to use 1 inch conduit based on the fill space of the 6-3? What am I missing?
Yea fiberglass fish tape for me I used 32 mm 1 and 1/4 in 12th of a kings foot measurements and put in a draw wire for possible additional wiring without ripping it all out or running alongside a few dollars up front 100s saved later.
I have done DIY with electrical for 40 years or more, even rewiring a house with a new breaker box in a house out in the country. I am VERY impressed with how thorough and careful with your explanations were. Thank you for this. I do indeed plan to get a Tesla box, but I will probably pay for that to be done. It will be a brand new house and a brand new car. I will not DIY that one...
He really was so thorough…I had to subscribe! I’m an electrician apprentice right now, and at times we’re on a job for months only putting up lights, so this was a great overall refresher on running wire in EMT, fishing wire, plus some pro tips I’ve heard of before but had forgotten about! Why wouldn’t you DIY this with your experience?
Come on you can do it, a lot of great tips in the comment section on how this could've been a much smoother installation, like using a 4s box instead of the LB conduit, and transitioning through the wall to the panel with flexible metal conduit or better yet using MC cable and avoiding completely the used of the Romex cable, even installing a 5s box with an industrial raise cover for the receptacle.
@@yvesn58 4s box is a metal box that will be used as a junction box, just like the one he used to put the plug. He should've used one of those instead of the LB. He got into a nightmare trying to run that cable through the LB. There are fittings to connect the wire from the back of the 4s box down to the panel using MC cable, Flex conduit, or even the same Romex cable he used.
An absolutely perfect video on AC electrical systems and how to make it safe and all that being an old shop teacher I have to tell you put on safety glasses before you start any work thank you very much for a good video
Hi, I used your video to install a NEMA outlet for my EV. It was super helpful and I can’t believe I was able to do it myself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
As a handyman when I pull any cable using the ground wire, I cut the conductors (Black/Red/White) so they are staggered (different lengths) before taping them to the snake. This gives them a more gradual entry into the conduit.
As a handyman you shouldn't be pulling any wires in anything unless it's your own house. As a licensed electrician I'm constantly fixing handyman specials. You may be the exception to the rule but generally handyman think they know but don't know Jack. Codes updated every 3 years and it's a four-year apprenticeship just to get a journeyman license. Electricity is no joke and should be taken very seriously poor jobs can risk people's lives and safety not to mention property damage. Anybody can pull wire through a piece of conduit but do they know how to derate ,do they know how to do load calculations do they know how to make sure the breakers the right size to protect the wire? there are so many factors that one wouldn't think about.
The video is excellent, detailed and informative. More importantly are the comments below. Each is very insightful as to this installation. Thanks to all.
From one pro to another.... Great video. Popped up in my UA-cam auto play while I was doing chores. Couldn't turn it off. Well done. You really should be teaching in a local trade school if you're not already doing that. Outstanding communication skills.
Very well done installation! For the benefit of the viewers, I must say that when I cut a conduit, I tape all around it at the desired position of the cut (with masking tape or paint edge tape). I then cut along the tape edge with a hack saw, while rotating the conduit at regular intervals. This keeps the cut always visible on the upper side of the conduit. After the cut is completed, I then remove the tape. This ensures that the cut itself is perfectly perpendicular to the edge of the conduit. This method is particularly useful when cutting large diameter pipes, such as for plumbing drain pipes. 2022/01/11. Ontario, Canada.
Damn it, you guys need to do this all over again, for those homeowners who don't have panels in enclosed garages, but have them often on the side of the house a good 35 feet to 50 feet away from the driveway !!!
I agree there isn't any videos out there running 6 gage from the side of the house panel either up from the roof through the sky lol back down to the garage or underground from the side to a garage that is 50 feet away.Most vids are like I bought my 2 feet of Romex at $2 lol you an I are like in the $400 dollar range. anyways The dude that made this video is awesome I love it and it made sense for us DIYers thank you brother, keep it up.
Great vid, thank you so much. Pro electrical engineering tip (Note: we often work in an EE lab with both low and high voltage open equipment with lots of possibility to create a short circuit with any metal objects that might get inside the equipment we are testing) : engineers must remove all conductive jewelry!
Very good advice! Years ago, an electrician friend of my parents died when a ring he was wearing touched a heavy load. Watching the guy in this video was giving me the heebee jeebees because it you get careless for just a split second you can get killed. Much better off to kill the power instead of yourself.
I was taught to wire to the breaker first, then install the breaker in the panel with the wires already. Is there some reason I'm not seeing to seat the breaker first and do the wiring in the more constrained space?
That can work well on smaller gauge wire like 12 and 10 but i would try to do anything larger with the breaker on the bus bar already to make it easier to give the wire some memory bends to make it look as good as possible but if I’m working inside a very cluttered panel that I just cannot get the wire on the breaker easily I pull the breaker off
Hubble also makes the Bryant 14-50 Nema receptacle. The Hubble cost $135 on Amazon and the Bryant cost $46 at Grainger(Model: 9450FR). Exact same product, both made by Hubble.
Not an electrician, but if I recall correctly it is OK to run romex through conduit, but usually not a great idea to do so. The fill table ends up treating the normally oval romex as a cylinder, and you need some absurdly oversized conduit to not over-fill the EMT. I can see why he'd do it for this install, to avoid putting conduit in the wall, but yeah, single conductors seem to be the way to go nearly every time conduit is involved.
Very good video & illustration of this electric installation. The pros were able to identify several areas that need to be considered with this electric project to meet a safe NEC installation. Also, when working in or around energized equipment, OSHA, mandates PPE equipment to be worn for added safety. Always best to de-energize equipment when working in or around electric equipment. Otherwise, a very educational video!
Thanks for making this great informative video. It should be very helpful to new EV owners and to train new electricians [and skilled DIY types]. Given the cost of copper these days, I would install a 6-50 outlet instead of the 14-50. Just be sure to get a 6-50 adapter for your car’s charge cord instead of a 14-50 adapter. This saves the cost of the unused neutral wire. However, if you ever would want to plug in a 50 Amp RV in the future, then go with the 14-50. RVs need the neutral wire and cannot use a 6-50. Another thing to consider is using separate THHN wires to support converting to a dedicated EV wall box with 60 Amp breaker in the future.
Question: Do I run a 6/2 NMB wire for the 6-50 Receptacle . Also should Romex 6/2 wire be in a conduit? Some concerns about heat accumulation in PVC conduit. What do you think?
@@ziamkondkar8273 It’s best to pull individual conductors rather than NM. It’s easier to pull, and reduces potential code issues with the wire overheating - critical if you’re pulling full capacity for a couple hours. In the US you’d be using THHN, and in Canada RA90 or similar. You may be able to use TECK cable (it’s a very heavy armoured cable with an extra layer of plastic) without conduit. While it’s more expensive than NM once you factor in the cost of conduit it ends up no more expensive.
You are great at explaining what should be explained in depth and I appreciate that you don't just assume that everybody should already know the basics...im a handy man and take pride in my work but learned a whole lot of things in this video that I will use going forward...thanks
In general your main panel the grounds and neutrals are bonded - if a sub panel they must be separated. In a house there is only ONE location (at the main panel) where neutrals and ground are connected together and attached to a grounding electrode (like a ground rod)
Why do you use 6/3 romex rather than individual conductors? It seems like individual wires would have been much easier to pull and to make the bend in the L-box. Great video and excellent information. Thanks.
That metal cover plate on the receptacle has sharp corners that will slice open a hand. Get a smooth galvanized cover plate that follows the shape of the box. Way more safe. Great vid!
Thank you for this video! I followed it step by step, and made use of pretty much every tip and trick mentioned. And now I am charging my new electric car in my garage. This video provided exactly the level of detail I needed to do the install.
As a union electrician western suburbs of Chicago this is nuts. First off go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap fish stick set. Next is location dependent . We don't use rope a dope here everything is emt. For all the work you did fishing that wall it would have been faster to make a nice easy offset out the top of the panel and surface mount the whole thing. A little drywall patch and your done. The romex through the pipe was crazy, just buy some wire and push it . I'm not sure if that is even code. I like the idea of EV cars and I know people are shocked (no pun intended) at the cost of 240 install but some things regular folk just shouldn't mess with. Just last month I got tagged doing a friend a favor, Who knew this guys father 40 years ago switched the white wires for the basement lights. Again this was emt and thhn wire. My fault for not tick testing first.
Thank you, im from Chicago as well and I thought I was going crazy for telling him to just cut the damn drywall and make the full conduit connection from the beginning to the end. Drywall and some patch work isnt that hard. This is the lazy way to do it and not to code (maybe in his area but not everywhere thats for sure). Disliked video for the lazy work.
Folks, 1 neutral wire per connection point. DO NOT share the screw position. 1 neutral. 2 grounds. After the 1st point of disconnect, you must separate the neutrals from the grounds. (typically a sub panel). If this is being inspected (which it probably isn't going to be) don't let an inspector see a ground and neutral on one screw or 2 neutrals. Also, not exactly necessary, but ground the receptacle box with a pigtail. The emt/box/recep all bonds back to the panel, but it is good practice to also bond the box by using a copper crimp to a pigtail and then to the receptacle. Old schoolers will tell you don't bother, you tell them to f off.
Would the potential hazard of an ungrounded recep. box be if it were ever to be energized due to a short to the hot somehow, then potentially someone could make contact with the box and get zooted? So if the recep box is grounded, if it ever gets energized by the hot wire fraying and making contact with it, what happens? Does it just cause the circuit breaker to trip? What if it's only a tiny little fray wire and it doesn't cause a massive current draw? could it potentially cause localized heating of a wooden stud and fire? please fill me in im curious as grounds were never really explained all that well as to how they actually worked to provide safety, other than tripping a GFCI on a bathroom circuit or something, but what about circuits without GFCI on them?
@@localbroadcast Obligatory "I am not an electrician". There is quite possibly some nuance I've missed, but the broad strokes should be reliable. Yes, that's the main reason for any and all metalwork enclosing high voltage electrical wiring to be grounded and or bonded - if any part of that exposed metalwork comes into contact with a live conductor, the breaker will trip from overcurrent (or any other present protections such as Arc Fault or Ground Fault protections if present on the breaker and applicable to the specific fault), thus preventing the metalwork from *staying* live for more than a split second and simultaneously drawing attention to the fault by preventing the circuit from working (live exposed metal will eventually zap *someone*, it's just a matter of time) . The only worse case scenario than silently live exposed metal is an actual fire. As to the other part of the question, that's an important reason to take the grounding connections every bit as seriously as the live ones: So long as the grounding connection is made properly and in good condition, the impedance and resistance of that path will be extremely low - hence any ground fault from a live conductor will cause a *massive* amount of current to flow. This ensures that the breaker trips immediately, before significant heating of the branch wiring can occur. If you have a high-resistance connection, that connection will heat up. If it's high resistance *enough* to prevent a breaker trip, it could indeed potentially create a fire - though I would think that that happens a lot more commonly on loose connections on the live and neutral conductors since you'd have a load completing the circuit instead of a short circuit, meaning the circuit resistance and impedance are added to the load, so you don't have a massive current flow but still have heating at the poor connection. If you have a tiny strand of live wire contacting a ground, you've still got a low-resistance and low-impedance path for current to flow on 99% of that circuit, and maybe a couple ohms at absolute most between the tiny strand and whatever it's touching.... that strand of wire just became a fuse. Either the strand blows clear, the breaker pops, or both in the vast, vast majority of cases. Even a 5 ohm resistance on a short circuit at 120V will draw 24A for 2.88Kw of heat produced at the fault - if your strand is tiny enough and badly connected enough to create 5 ohms, it definitely can't handle nearly 3000 watts of heat without melting clear in extremely short order.
In the electrical trade it is very hard to give absolutes because each piece is designed for its own special use. Generally, one screw-one wire. Breakers use heat, magnetism, or electronics to detect the current draw and open the breaker. A short circuit, like cutting a cable a cable with wire cutters can result in currents near 5,000 amps in that small instant of time the breaker takes to trip.. Yes, even #14 wire nears 5,000 amps. (Electrical welding of the cutters or burning some steel away.) GFCI's use electronic circuits to detect the current going out and coming back through the gcfi. When the difference gets to about 5 mAmps,, it trips to prevent current from going through the gfci and down an unknown path. This should protect people and equipment. Because their functions are different, someone cutting a live cable down stream (a load on gfci) will not trip the gfci, the breaker will. Most gfci's will then trip on "no power" and require they be reset also, after the breaker is re-shut, after power is restored. In a normal scenario when the box is grounded, any connection with the hot wire will again cause thousands of amps to shoot through the breaker and trip it.(should it get only close enough to arc, a standard breaker may not open, thus AFCI breakers.) The nec still lists emt conduit as an acceptable equipment ground. However, in this case, the conduit does not run back to the panel and would not be effective as a ground. Now things get interesting. The nec does allow grounding of the box by connecting the equipment ground to the recepticle and that connection through the mounting metal strap creates an effective ground path. Hope this gets your question answered. If not, let me know. Maybe a different explanation can be given.
@@keithharrington8715 if someone cuts Romex, chances are they'll hit ground before they hit neutral if cutting front the hot side first. This means some current going back on ground. If it's GFCI protected in that spot, it'll pop the GFCI. Which is why I like GFCI breakers at times.
@@adamplummer2190 I would like to exqmine what you are saying here. First, the NEC requires rounds ND neutrals be eectrically connected at the first means of disconnect for the service (main panel) ......making them about electrically the same. Now, let's try n some numbers..... 14 awg wire has a resistance of about 2.5 ohms per every though and feet. So a 50 foot run (out + back) should have a resistance of about (100 ft) or 0.5 ohms. So, our circuit resistance from the breaker to the cut spot is about one half ohm. Say zero for the gfci and the wire cutters are also zero. So our total circuit resistance is 0.5 ohms when the cutter hit metal. Current is. I=E/R I = 12 vac / 0.5 ohm. I = 240 amps seen on your 15 amp breaker protecting the gfic. Since both the breaker and the gfci both see this value at the exqct same time.....I do not think it matters which one trips first. I know the gfci will trip on a loss of power when the breaker trips. Now, I did the simple math here.....no impedance or vectors for the AC voltage, got the ohm value in Google, and used rms voltage not peak to peak. If you find a problem or error I made please let me know. If you need code sections let me know. Ch 9 table 8 might have a slightly different number, I was lazy wit Google. Again, I calculate over 200 amps through your 15 amp breaker the instant the cutters hit copper.
Pro tip: when fishing wire in a live panel, put a large piece of cardboard inside to cover up all the breakers and feeders. Also wear safety glasses at all times. Where I am, we would not put Romex inside conduit. Run stranded wire and conduit all the way. A “telephone 90” fitting can be used to get into the panel easily.
Awesome video! Thank-you so much for sharing your skills in Electrical installs. I picked up on several of your tips (at least 10) that you can't find in any books. I've pulled wire thru conduit and made the work much harder than necessary - with your tips, I'm actually looking forward to the next adventure with cable and conduit. Again, Thanks
Yeah, not necessarily illegal, but man there were better choices. I get that he was trying to use materials readily available to the homeowner. But as someone else already pointed out, 6 feet of FMC from the condulet to the panel, and then just install three (3) #8 + (1) #10G (also readily available at the homecenter) and you have a much better installation.
Romex is not meant to be used in a conduit like that, it gets hotter than it should. Using THHN would be the right way to do this. You'd think a pro would know that stuff.
I liked your presentation. When working with a live panel I use a non-conductive fishtape. Although a LB looks nicer, I prefer a 4-11/16 deep j-box above the panel to get a proper wire bend and easy installation. Also I would have stripped the jacket off the Romex between j-boxes.
One think I never do is run a metal fish in a live panel. Having been in a arc flash myself and seen others you learn. I see someone said they done it a thousand times. He has been lucky and maybe 1001 will make him smarter. Rest of the video was good but also agree you need to jumper your ground wire to the box.
@john alt yes indeed you may think you're a pro but accidents do happen. For an instructional video it should of been a fiber glass or nylon snake and or the metal snake should of been tape up at least 8FT but that's bit annoying to do. There is so many OSHA rules and safety we all have to follow in NY or other states.
I was going to said that too, they sell some fiberglass fish rods that are great for that , since you know when those metal fish tapes move aré incontrolable, the rest I have no complaint
Ohh yeah I forgot the receptacle box needs a # 10 pigtail and spliced and get another pigtail for the receptacle. Also an industrial cover would look better since is surface mounted
Nice video. I would use safety glasses, especially working in a live electrical panel. Secondly, I would use an insulated fish tape while in a live panel.
Very good, piping and landing the wires also good job on explaining to regular ppl who may not understand how to do this as a diy, But you missed one big/small detail you forgot to ground the metal outlet box with a pigtail or grounding screw NEC article 250.148.
One correction - NEC 625.54 require that EV charging receptacles be GFCI protected so you should have used a GFCI breaker. (garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected as well.)
The tesla wall charger and others are GFCI PROTECTED INSIDE THE CHARGER SO YOU DONT NEED GFCI BRAKER BUT LIKE THE 14-50 AND 6-50 ARE NOT GFCI PROTECTED YOU NEED A GFCI BREAKER.
Excellent video, Thank you! I do not have a main panel in the garage however my meter is just outside the garage. I am going to install a single DO 50 amp breaker in a an A/C type box on the garage inside wall near the outside meter, use your information to install the inside plug receptacle then have an electrician make the short connection through the garage wall and to the meter stand. Again a very well done video!
A couple of notes, I just did almost exactly the same installation here. The only difference was that the panel was surface mounted, and a weather proof outlet was surface-mounted outdoors on brick - we don't park cars in the garage because they rot in winters quicker, and I used slightly oversized PVC conduit surface-mounted with glued joints. I only needed a pull elbow to make the sharp turn thru the exterior wall. 1) Our codes in particular, and I suspect to a certain extent the NEC, frowns on NMD cable in conduit for long lengths - it's a heat dissipation issue. A few feet are fine (such as a drop to a switch from the ceiling), but not 20+ feet. Use individual conductor, it'll also be easier to pull. 2) 50A chargers are usually available in BOTH 14-50 (2hot, 1neutral and ground) and 6-50 (2 hot, ground) when you order. Since they're pure 240V, they don't need a neutral. Which will save you some expensive copper. In my case, I wanted to dual-purpose the outlet for a welder. The welder was 6-50, so the choice was even more obvious. Think about such considerations and make sure that the charger and outlet agree. 3) Even here, where the panels are *required* to not allow access to the main wiring when the circuit panel door is off (you have to remove another door), I recommend against implying to DIYers it's a possibility, even if you "recommend" DIYers not do it. I am a DIYer, and do lots of work on panels, and much of it live. BUT here's the important part: if someone asks me whether it's safe, my answer is ALWAYS: "if you have to ask, it isn't safe." This is only something you can answer for yourself after gaining experience and intimately understanding what you're doing and what can bite you.
An unrelated question: cars rot *faster* if you keep them in a garage in winter? I am not sure I have ever heard that said, but I love ot learn. Why would it be? The only reason I can imagine is if you make the case that the higher temperatures will cause the oxidation reaction between metal(s) and salt to happen faster, which is probably true but not to a significant degree AFAIK. On the other hand, every single other component of the car - and there are a lot of 'other compontents' will be very negatively affected, so I am a bit at a loss.
@@luigifabio77 The critical thing here is temperature cycling of the underside of the vehicle (including inside wheel wells etc) and available moisture and evaporation rates. Especially with garages attached to a house, the vehicle will be experiencing wilder swings in temperature, and usually rather higher humidity swings and less air flow to dry things off. For example, a vehicle kept outdoors all the time can accumulate ice/frozen slush/road salts which freeze and stay frozen for long periods and be extremely slow reacting with metal. In a garage, it may go through thaw/refreeze more than once a day (eg: your driving trips and just temperature swings thru the day), and be at rather higher humidity - worse there's less airflow so things will dry off slower indoors. There's a similar scenario in the warmer times. A vehicle parked on grass (or dirt or gravel) will rot out faster than if it was parked on concrete or asphalt. The much more porous (and higher surface area of grass) provides a lot more and longer lasting moisture supply under the vehicle. Even the normal rust proofing cars these days (let alone when you apply some aftermarket solution) will help, but if you're talking about an older vehicle (or a utility trailer) it can be quite pronounced. I've had people suggest that even parking your vehicle over top of a layer of plastic sheeting overtop of gravel can help slow rust down.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 fine as you state it, but given that a garage will be dryer AND warmer I am doubtful things will dry faster in the winter outdoors compared to inside a garage, especially if the garage is heated in any way. I can see the scenario you describe, at least as relates to the freeze-thaw cycles possibly, in climates where the temperatures stay solidly below 32 throughout the day coupled with small, non HVACed garages. That's a fairly specific scenario, however, taht we definitely don't get here (E coast).
@@luigifabio77 Well, yeah, if you're in the banana belt, where freezing temperatures are relatively short, you're actually HVAC'ing a garage and road salt isn't used. In the US northern states, and the great white north, few people are crazy rich enough to heat their garages, and road salt is used, they're damp just about continuously through the winter with parking a car in it. The only garages that are somewhat heated is only because they share walls with a house, and the garage-house membrane leaks. Which you try very hard for a number of reasons to minimize - it's code compliance - leaky attached garages waste money, deteriorate structure and can kill you. My detached garage is an oversize insulated double and originally no heat. But the floor was gravel, and every fall and spring there was a period of time where any exposed bare metal (eg: the tables on my stationary tools) would rust in a day or three, but would rust far slower if they had been outdoors and merely sheltered from rain/snow. Since then I've had a concrete floor poured, and I have two 4800 watt construction heaters when I need heat in the garage for a few days (eg: painting stuff during the winter), but it's usually off. During the winter the garage goes weeks if not a month or two at -5 to -10C.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 right. I am not that far from the north and there's PLENTY of salt being used. Though yes, whole days below freezing are the exception, not the norm, except maybe for the first week of January. And yes, the attached garage is heated by the common wall with the house - but the non-attached garage has heating which is set to 38F during the winter. Both of them have dehumidifiers running as well when the heating is on. The cars and the tools seem to like it. I will agree that an unheated garage with a gravel floor is probably the worst possible environment for anything metal, you'll get no dispute from me there... I think we have clarified where our different points of view come from, thank you!
Attaching the power wires to the unattached breaker, and then snapping the breaker into the box, is a slightly easier way to proceed. Anyway thanks for doing it LIVE! (Ha ha ha)🙂
I’ve done several projects similar to this in my house. I’m a DIY’er (D-I-Wire !). Here are my recommendations based upon what I do in general, and what I viewed in this video (in no particular order): When cutting EMT conduit, definitely use the five-gallon bucket. However, drill two 1.5” holes right underneath the top of the bucket, 180 degrees apart so they’re on opposite sides. Cut the tops of the holes out using a utility knife. Now you have a bucket with two grooves to hold the conduit. You can also drill and cut 1” holes 90 degrees from the 1.5” grooves. This arrangement helps to stabilize the conduit while you cut since it won’t roll away. A ratcheting pipe cutter will cleanly cut PVC conduit in a few seconds, without burrs needing to be trimmed. That is the main reason why I switched and now always use PVC conduit. The segments glue together so no unsightly set screws sticking out. Wipe them off with mineral spirits (or even Windex) then paint to match the wall color if you want. I found it more time consuming to paint EMT, plus there’s the unsightly set screws to paint also. Additionally, unlike EMT, PVC conduit will not energize. I *ALWAYS* thread my conductors through each segment of conduit before gluing together and before fastening to the wall. Well if the conduit segments are short, then I will connect two or more of them together first before threading conductors. This technique, to a great extent, avoids the hassle of difficult wire pulls through a completed conduit system, particularly if there are multiple 90 degree bends in different planes, as in this video’s project. Speaking of bends in different planes, it is challenging to do this using metal fish tape because it only flexes in one plane. Donate it to Goodwill and get yourself fiberglass fish tape since it bends in all planes with ease. I used to think it was plastic but it’s actually fiberglass. A critical added benefit is that you will not electrocute yourself if your fiberglass fish tape contacts an energized component. And if you insist upon using metal fish tape, then wear non-conducting gloves on both hands. As an added bonus, they will prevent a soft tissue injury from the metal edges of the fish tape. Still on the subject of fish tape, I regularly use Wire Pulling Foam Lubricant when there are bends or fittings in the conduit which can impede pulling the conductors through. It cleans up easily so I prefer the spray foam lubricant. Is your fish tape hanging up somewhere inside a lengthy, complicated conduit system? Here is a technique that will knock your socks off. Get a ball of string, a Shop-Vac, and Shop-Vac fittings to connect the suction hose to PVC conduit. Turn on the Shop-Vac then feed string through the other end of a long conduit system. Pretty soon the string will be sucked through the conduit system from one end to the other. Turn off the Shop-Vac and secure both ends of the string to both ends of the conduit. Next, affix one end of the string to the end of the fiberglass fish tape. Alternate advancing the fish tape with pulling the string from the other end of the conduit system. When you get to the obstruction, unwind a few feet of fish tape then pull on the string from the other side. May have to go back and forth a few times, but very soon you will be able to advance the fish tape past whatever had been hanging it up. This technique is particularly useful for conduit laid underground for future installation of lawn lighting systems, but can be used inside the residence as well if needed. Naturally this works better with two people coordinating at either end, but I’ve done this by myself several times. I prefer THHN to Romex but without conduit behind the garage wall in this video, you will need Romex for the entire installation to avoid junctions. In some circumstances, you can install a junction box in order to go from Romex behind drywall to THHN within PVC conduit outside of the walls. Hard-wired wall-mounted “car chargers” do not need a neutral conductor. Copper prices are outrageous now. Skip the NEMA receptacle and the neutral conductor. Save a bundle. Electricians, both professional and amateur (like myself) *MUST* have and use a quality stud-finder. Imagine, in this video presentation, if the electrician, after having removed the service panel’s upper-right knock-out, had encountered a horizontal stud at some point between the panel and the ceiling! He would then have had to cut through drywall. A quality stud-finder would have assured an obstruction-free passage from point A to point B. On the other end of this project, a stud-finder would have aided in the optimal placement of the NEMA receptacle junction box to take advantage of securing it with screws into at least one stud. In this video’s project, turns out that’s what happened. But an electrician shouldn’t resort to serendipity. Plan the conduit path in advance so junction boxes are (mostly) screwed into studs. Last but not least, I secure the ends of the hot conductor(s) into circuit breakers and *THEN* snap the breakers into the service panel. That way I can hold the breaker tightly in one hand and the screwdriver in the other hand, rather than torqueing the breaker within the panel while tightening the hot wire screw(s). Furthermore, if for some reason the screwdriver ‘gets away from you’ while tightening, the tip will push through the air, rather then into an energized component within the service panel. And for goodness sakes, wear non-conducting gloves when working within a live service panel. Any comments will be appreciated.
Looks good, one thing, you could’ve used a j box and just put an extension then ran you’re conduit. Again 1000 ways to skin a cat but i think that would have made it easier for your install. 2. Your box or conduit isn’t grounded, you would need to ground the box with a pigtail in the case for whatever reason the box became energized you want a path to ground.
Thanks for the video. Your friend is an enthusiastic electrician and a great teacher. Agree with commenters that some things could have been done better. For instance, much prefer THHN wire in conduit and would like to see a conduit system go from panel to box. Would consider the installed tubing in this case to be more of a protective sleeve rather than a true conduit system. Also not a fan of the faceplate arrangement on the wiring device. Regardless, enjoyed the video. Always glad to see other pros work. Keep up the great work!
Yeah, I feel like he could’ve minimized risk by shutting off the main breaker. Yeah the bottom part would still be live but it’s a lot less space that’s energized. Good tips on the cardboard and fiberglass fish rods. I’m gonna keep those in mind for my future projects. Overall good video though, and was laid out well, and well presented.
This is a good way to do it. I just did a very similar thing for a 40 amp electric heater except I used flexible metal conduit. For me I ran my wire in the conduit and then put it up because that wire is tough to manage. And I just used an outside junction box to near my elect panel to wire it. Really the hardest part is dealing with the thick wire. And just to note, I turned off the power and also bought insulated screwdrivers and pliers to use.
I thought this was a great video and I learned a lot, both from the video and the comments. From a safety standpoint I'd agree with the comments that too many shortcuts were taken (live panel, no PPE). From a technical standpoint it seems there were other ways to do the job but there were still many good tips for someone with general interest which is how it was presented in the intro.
Hey fellow canucks. He does say that if you are a DIY you should turn off the panel. I've rarely see experienced electricians turn off panels. I'm guilty of that but don't recommend it. One big difference between Canadian electrical panels and US panels, Canadian panels required any conductors before the disconnect breaker must be in a separate compartment. There is often a cover plate that covers the feed side. The idea is if you turn off the main breaker, no exposed parts of the panel will be energized.
@@domenicdefrancesco hey Domenic! Yes, he does say that but then does a lot of work in a live panel. I know guys do it, like you I don't think it's not a great practice whether you're a pro or not. Good point about the mains being covered in Canada. I hadn't realized that. 🙂
This was a fun video, and I actually found it more enjoyable than most of Joel's videos. It seemed more straightforward with less joking around. It also explained a lot more that I think is sometimes skipped over with his usual videos, maybe because this was intended for DIYers.
You can’t feed a 50A continuous load with a 50A circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers, including the Square D QO breakers shown in this video, are only rated for 80% duty. This means that even though the 50A circuit breaker will supply 50A, it is not meant for supplying that much current for 3 hours or more. This setup would, however, be sufficient for supplying 40A continuously since 50A breaker x 0.8 = 40A. I’m sure this is what you meant.
Using Romex in the conduit in this application is not ideal (against code in wet locations). I would recommend you get THHN wires cut to the length you need. In my area Home Depot sells THHN by the foot. You could use 3/4" schedule 40 conduit which will fit 4 x 6-gauge wires.
You generally aren't supposed to run cables through conduit, just individual conductors. That's why it was so hard to pull. Should've installed a J box above the panel, brought the Romex from the panel to that J box, then transitioned to the EMT, with THHN conductors. Then make sure there are grounding/bonding pigtails on the boxes. Or just cut the wall open and run the EMT the whole way and patch it after. Lastly, it's 240 volts, not 220. There's no 110 or 220 in the USA, just 120VAC and 240VAC.
Which code states that running NM cable through conduit is unacceptable? I have heard that myth repeated over and over, but I have yet to see any codes that substantiate that claim. But with that said, I suppose individual wires might be a bit easier/faster to pull and maybe a little cheaper.
@@averyalexander2303 It isn't against code but you have to size the conduit properly, adjust ampacity if necessary, and you cannot put the NM inside of a conduit if the conduit is outside. He struggled to run that cable through the conduit because it was too tight of a fit, then he didn't use lube, and he didn't properly bond/ground the EMT. To me there are several other better ways to have done this installation.
@@illestofdemall13 Makes sense, thanks for clarifying! As I said I agree that individual wires would have overall been a better method for this application.
@@averyalexander2303 The installer knows how to "make it work" but there are some key issues that he missed. If you are following the NEC and also doing the job safely, then there are several ways to do it. One big issue I see is having a piece of EMT used to protect the cable, but it isn't bonded/grounded to the ground of the cable that's coming from the panel and going to the charger receptacle. This could potentially be a shock hazard to the customer if there happened to be a ground fault inside of the conduit. He is only relying on the ground screw of the receptacle and the mounting screws of the receptacle yoke to complete electrical continuity of the ground.
Thank you so much for this great video. I was able to install my 14-50 NEMA receptacle very easy thanks to your detailed instructions and materials guide. Again thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the common “Do it yourselfer!” 😊
As a certified Tesla installer and a electrical contractor I have installed literally hundreds of Nema 14-50s and Tesla car chargers over the last 5 years. I really wish you would not tell "do it your selfers" to attempt this. I have been asked by Tesla to replace a number of improperly installed units because of improperly connected or torqued wires and other installer failures. There are too many places that wire can be nicked by novices or kinked with improper radius and over bending. I also was horrified at you using a metal fish tape in a live panel. I have taught a number of apprentices and I would never suggest using any conductive fish tape in a live panel. Fiberglass or nylon tapes are cheap. Your life is not. Also use insulated screwdrivers in a live panel. Wear gloves and eye protection always. Get a reamer tool, a stud finder and some other easy tools to afford. Also, one thing about running Romex in conduit. There is a heat dissipation issue. I was taught never run Romex over a foot in a conduit of any kind. If you have to, oversize the conduit. Maybe use one inch if you have to or run flex down through the wall to the panel and use regular stranded wire. All terminal screws should always be torqued with a flat blade or square drive screwdriver. Do not use a phillips. Final note: use an industrial type cover not the stainless finish cover you used for surface mounts. That cover you used is for in the wall applications.
Very sad, there are alot of ppl just like this guy on YT giving bad info. Only electricity is extremely dangerous and I think some ppl really don't understand it like professionals do.😔
I am guilty as charged for using UA-cam for stuff. That said I just cringe when I see these guys showing anything more than swapping out an outlet. Somebody is going to get killed.
How about stripping the Romex sheath inside the conduit until you exit the conduit body inside the wall. Would be an easier pull and no heat gain in the conduit.
@@marcbreault9371 the insulation on the bare wire would have to be rated. The easier way would have been to pipe it 100 percent of the way and use THHN wire. Even if he didn't have access to a bender for the pipe to make a offset out of the top of the panel there's ways around that. For example, a piece of 3/4 flex in the wall up to that box. Or a short section of flex out the of panel to the finished side of drywall and then a flex connector into a barrel connector to a emt connector. I believe there's a connector that does this in on shot. I have a 1/2inch one floating around so guess there's a 3/4 one. The take away from this is just because you have a UA-cam channel doesn't necessarily mean it is a good idea to promote showing people projects above peoples pay grade.
I was able to install about 90 feet of 6/3 wire using your video as a reference guide and saved myself thousands of dollars. I just wanted to say thank you for the clear, and easy to understand video.
Anyone thinking about doing this project can absolutely do it, just don't cut corners. Make sure you get a commercial grade Outlet like he said in the beginning of the video, and based on what iv read it sounds like a cheap torque screwdriver will be helpful to make sure those terminals don't ever come lose and cause problems in the future.
I think the hardest part about this is getting your local jurisdiction to issue you a homeowners electrical permit
Enjoyed this well presented video. As a master electrician in Michigan for 40 years I do have a couple of comments.
First I would have used a 4 square box on the wall above panel, you would have eliminated a lot of stress. Two, on the outlet I think the sharp corners of the flush use plate may be just waiting for someone to cut themselves, a raised cover would have been the correct one.
Also when working with a metal fish tape in a panel is always dangerous. A no conducive fish rod would have been my first choice, if not available I would have stuffed a cardboard guard inside the panel.
Safety first !
thanks for the tips.
As a previous electrician I agree with you.
This is great information, thank you 🙏
My father was a master electrician here in Michigan as well (IBEW 692.) There were a few tense moments in this video until I remembered that if this guy would have made contact he probably wouldn’t have been “available” to finish this project 😁
Still would have covered the breakers with cardboard!
Guys and gals listen to this man when he says "buy an industrial rated outlet" buy a hubbel not the cheap 12 dollar one from.big box!!! Those are good for dryers and such not a constant 50 amp draw for hours! I know the hubbel is 50 bucks more but I've seen my welders melt the cheap ones and your EV is drawing more then my welders and for longer. Don't die in your sleep over 50 bucks.
Excellent video
This should really be pinned. I'm surprised they installed an Amazon speical crap-o 5000. Hubble or bust.
I watched this video a few times and without any electrical experience I was able to do it in 6 hours. Instead of running Romex throughout I wired individual wires as they were easier (they are lubed) and then instead of the conduit box I used the same deep square box and connected Romex into the dry wall - they also have a follow up video with errors. Also don't buy anything from amazon except the Industrial 14-50 outlet (Bryant and Hubble are the same and Bryant is cheaper) - local hardware store is cheaper Enjoy, Be Safe and Happy Level 2 Charging! Thank you!
Especially for DIY’ers - if the appliance end is already completed and you are wiring into panel, ALWAYS check for continuity (short) between the cables before you land them in the panel. Once landed, it’s not easy to check. If you get continuity between any pair of wires, there is a short and you must not land any wires.
Good advice.
I've already install a 240 and this lines up with what I've done. Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to do it.
One of the best electrical videos I've ever seen. Details are very clear. I'm not confident enough to work inside an electrical panel, but I wouldn't be afraid to try.
This is the worst work on the internet. Serious safety issues the whole time!
Some good information...I guess. I would never pull NM through conduit. Code or no code. To keep it clean above the panel I would use a 411 box. It is ok to make joints with wires. I know some will cry that it is a potential trouble spot but not if you do it properly. NM in wall then THHN in the conduit. The condulet at the top of the wall is more work than is necessary. Well made video! I like the effort the young man made to explain things to DIYers.
Fantastic tutorial ! I learned a lot, took many many notes. Stopped , replayed , restarted so many times I lost count . I didn't want to miss anything. I spent over 2 hours watching the 48 min. video , couldn't get enough. Thank you very much. I will be assisting my brother who is an electrician in installing an electric car charging station in my house and I didn't want to look like a dope. And thanks for NOT having any loud distracting music in the background as so many other You Tubers do.
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The reason why he had so much trouble pulling is that the EMT he used (3/4 inch) was undersized for the Romex he used (6-3 w/gnd.) 2020 NEC Chapter 9, Table 1 and Chapter 9, Item 9 requires 53% maximum fill for cable in conduit or tubing, which would be exceeded in his situation. So 1 inch EMT, or individual THHN's where 40% fill can be used.
Thanks for the feedback James, appreciate the help.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I tried what James said and it electrocuted my balls off. LOL. Thanks for making the video
What's really annoying is hooking up a spa disconnect with 6/3 in a tiny ass box.
Exactly
@@fernandoprieto2865 This is exactly why some people should just hire some one!
I've only done this once before . I put in a outlet in for my RV at a friend's house. 4 pole 240 volts. Now I'm getting ready to run another one where I park my RV at home. And I've been looking for a video to confirm the panel connections.
You do a great job explaining the whole process, thank you. I enjoyed it.
Best of luck on the project. I need an RV 😁
You are an amazing teacher and very good at speaking about wiring to laymen, like myself. There are plenty of installers out there, less true professionals, and even less that know how to teach. Thank you for the video. I'll probably never do this install by myself for my Model Y, but it's cool to be more informed before hiring someone to do it for me.
I am a diy who has worked on a live panel. As an EE, I have a lot of respect for what is going on it there and take my time thinking through each move before acting. The only time I got stung was while neatly routing the new wires when I touched a hot wire the "pro" who installed the panel had nicked. BTW, that 120VAC sting was nothing like the 300VDC sting I got on my little finger trying to brace a scope probe on a small PCB the size of my fist. I was concentrating on troubleshooting the 5V and 15V circuits on the PCB and totally forgot about the small 300V circuit. It isn't the voltage that kills, you can be electrocuted with just 0.040 Amps of current.
I stupidly shorted the 340VDC leads from my 17.5 kWh battery on my home backup system. Exploded in my hands, threw me across the garage and sent me to the emergency room for the afternoon with 2nd and 3rd degree burns. This is not a joke. The thing is, installing these systems in my hardware lab was my job for over a decade. I was installing mine in my home and relaxed on the safety procedures and well I described the results. Safety first.
Great video! I learned something new with the freakishly long needle nose plier tool. I'm a DIYer, but in the past, I've used coat hangers and all types of crap to get that wire out. Good to know that tool exists. If it's less than $50, I'll buy it.
Personally, I wouldn't use drywall anchors to hold such a heavy plug. Then again, I'm one of those people who overdoes things. I would have reinforced the outlet with wood supports. So I would have cut out the sheetrock, added wood studs, and added the sheetrock back and re-taped it.
Lastly, and most importantly, the outlet you choose if of CRITICAL IMPORTANCE!!! While you can go to any big box store and pick up a $9 NEMA 50 amp plug (the kind used for electric dryers) DO NOT USE THOSE! Those are not designed specifically to have current running through them for hours and hours and hours and there have been many stories of those melting and worse, starting fires. Get the industrial kind, like Hubbell. As of me writing this, they're $80, so they're not cheap. But if you're going to spend $50K (or more) on an EV, you're already saving money by doing the job yourself. Don't have your house burn down over a few bucks.
*Appears that Joel is installing a Hubbell 9450A, 50A, NEMA 14-50R receptacle. This is an industrial grade piece as FedSpec grade is expensive overkill. This is better than good for extended duty-cycle home use. $90 on Amazon. Do it once, do it right and be secure in the knowledge you did so. Your clue is B00IPBMUKY. Cheers!*
I had 240v. outlet installed (NEMA 14-50). Need 3#6W+G (same as shown on you tube here) For Tesla. Once it is done it had about 30miles/hr. charge with 32/32Amp running.
Then I installed Tesla NEW Wall connector inside garage. Require NO neutral. 2#4+G (No neutral). Wiring is much easier than outlet. Just pull wire from panel and passing thru back of base of wall connector (no wire cut). Loop to connect to base terminal. then snap wall connector into base and done. Speed is much faster 45 Miles/hr (48/48A) . Much easier than NEMA 14-50 outlet.
It worth money to install TESLA wall connector instead of NEMA 14-50 (assume you have TESLA)
I was a journeyman in the '60's, but now I see so many changes...so this was very informative! SUBSCRIBED!
He missed the code changes too.
Great video. My 2 cents as a master electrician..... 4 square above panel instead of LL/LR/LL, fiberglass fish rod for wall fish, raised industrial cover for receptacle, and metallic outlet box must be bonded as the conduit run is not continuous to panel.
This job would look different if I did it too. However, did he violate code anywhere? I question if the box is grounded iaw the nec.
Just found this one.....but 406.11 (recepticles) connecting the ground terminal to the box.....250.146.(A). Roecepticle ground term to box, surface mounted., the yoke to box connection shall provide the effective ground path. So the box is grounded as per 314.4?
The only possible violation I can see is 625.54, which requires a gfci breaker for car charging (ELECTRIC VEHICLE SERVICE EQUIPMENT) recepticles.
I only deem it possible because of 90.4 and not enough information from ahj.
Please not 625.54 the gfci requirement ...car charging was not changed in 2020 so maybe for 2017 or earlier.
Now, I consider myself an "A-" guy.....good but not perfect. So if I missed a concern please let me know. And if I have a reference wrong, yeah, give that written smack down.
@@keithharrington8715 I think he did a good job, but to answer your question yes. The 4x4 outlet box utilized for the receceptacle would be required to be bonded to be code compliant. A ground stinger should have been installed into the 4x4 box, which would bond the box, attached metallic conduit, fittings, and metallic receptacle cover to prevent them from becoming energized.
@@keithharrington8715(IMHO) The articles you are referring to allow the receptacle to be grounded via its yoke in direct connection to the box. Not vice versa. Not good practice either way and would be highly frowned upon by ahj if you tried to use this shortcut.
@@rodneyparker9912 sir, I would have attached the egc with a wire to the box and recepticle (pigtailed it). However, 250.146 says you can skip the bonding jumper if you do 250.146 A, B, C, or D.
It looks like here he followed (A).
@@rodneyparker9912 thanks Rodney. Looks like you are right. Did some better reading and The yoke can ground the recepticle to the box connected to the egc..
I love when videos are so detailed and well done. It gives all the steps and details you need to realize you need to hire a professional.
I had a pro install my charger. I cried a little when I had to pay. But it was installed and it is right and years later never a problem.
This was detailed, but there were still some important points left out and this won't pass inspection.
@@nilpowhat specifically wouldn't pass inspection? And where(country/state)?
@@AJ-ri5ee North America. Specifically in the US it won't pass NFPA 70. Pretty sure it doesn't pass in Canada either.
@@nilpoOk, but what part?
These outlets are also terrific for powering large single phase air compressors and welders, and rotary phase converters to run things like used three phase industrial air compressors, welders etc depending on size. DIYers with patience can wallow in quality used industrial equipment for same or less money than consumer crap but having that large single phase outlet (or more than one since parts are cheap and you're in there anyway!) is key. I even added them to my rented house (with landlord permission, he was also my best friend) and took them when I moved.
Look into the many products including cords, splitters and other hardware used to power RVs from these outlets. I promise it will be useful info if you DIY.
Related note re: "cool stuff powered by outlets": I put my horizontal tank compressors and my welders on dollies I fabbed to use scaffolding casters (which just slide into a tube and are magnificent, get the round shank style) for easy handling. If you rent and put everything heavy on wheels the rest of your life gets impressively easier. You eventually need to move most of your stuff so if you make that low effort in the beginning you never sweat again.
Great video! I always use non-conductive fish tape, especially when working near live circuits. Many job sites require it.
That's a great idea! I'll be purchasing one
I was taught that it is against code to install Romeo in conduit, besides it’s so hard to pull it through conduit. Stranded thhn wire is the best conductors for this project. You would need to tape the portion every five or six inches that go down the wall unless you can purchase pre twisted wire in the three conductor and size you need. Plus you should have used an industrial cover for the receptacle. It matches the 4 sqr. Box perfectly. The cover you used is for a flush mount.
Who ever taught you it was against code, should not be teaching. Get a code book look it up for your self. 334 covers NM cable to help you out
Well, you can use non metallic cable inside a chase or conduit if it’s not a damp location is the basic rule, but there are a bunch of exceptions. As a rule, using individual conductors is a better idea since it’s always OK. To be honest, I’m not sure why you’d use NM cable. Maybe price?
This guy is an EXCELENT teacher. Thanks .
He is and Joel also has his own channel where he goes over a ton of great Electrical info www.youtube.com/@ElectricProAcademy
Ive never watched a more informative, professional, extremely well explained youtube channel. Thank you for all your work!
Horrible work. Worse than a DIYer!
Very humble approach to electric and love the attitude and positivity. You’re the bob Ross of electrical work
The one comment I have is regarding your grounding path for the conduit. You go into great detail about ensuring your connections are secure, all locknuts and set screws tight. However, I didn’t see a grounding pigtail from the receptacle to the metal box. The other end of your run ends at the wall with no conducive path down to the panel. I know it’s not practical to run conduit through the wall to the panel, but without a grounding pigtail on the other end, how would any fault current make it back to the panel to trip the breaker should the conduit become energized? Did I miss something?
I noticed and thought the same thing. Makes you think . But with ground wire grounded to the outlet also ground the piping too?
No. Each of the components of the outlet are electrically isolated from each other. For the ground of the outlet to be connected to the metal box/conduit there would need to be a grounding pigtail to connect them.
Great point, I totally missed that. As far as I can tell you're right, the EMT nor the box is bonded properly.
@@timcaron9049 theoretically yes. But without the wiring device in place with the covers on, the pipe is not bonded. And while a grounding pigtail to a wiring device is not required when the metal box is bonded, I don't think the reverse is true from a Code perspective.
I suspect the metal mounting tabs on the outlet are bonded to the ground terminal, which would bond the box. However, the other end of the conduit isn't bonded. I'm not an electrician, but I heard that both ends of the conduit should be bonded.
Excellent video, I didn't imagine myself watching this in one sitting but Joel's calm teaching style and work flow is mesmerizing to watch. Thanks so much for the collaboration, Scott and Joel! You guys both put out quality, well-articulated content. Also subscribed to Joel!
Metal in a hot panel..... NO!!! WORST MISTAKE
He has leadership tone and patience something I really like to embrace with my crew . Win win .
I also felt this video was very informative. I pretty much ignore the "let me see what I can criticize" people. 😅 If they posted a video, there's be others criticizing their procedures, have not doubt.
“mesmerizing”? I was waiting for the spark and lights out when he was letting that fish tape just flip around in the panel. 😬
This guy is a hack electrician, die cast coupling, steel connector, mixing type of connectors, WRONG next it’s a 3/8” offset not 1/2” offset. If this guy new his sheet he wouldn’t run 6/3 romex through an LB, ROMEX IN A CONDUIT IS ALSO WRONG, DIY just have the guy at HD cut individual wire to your length, 40’ feet of conduit eguals 3- 46’ of #6 and 46’ of #10 green, individual wire is more cost effective than romex
I"m an EE who worked as an electricians helper several summer both before and during college. You can't know too much and it's great to watch a professional again as solar projects are coming up just around the corner.
This was a fantastic video to teach a relative newbie like me how to install a 240V NEMA 15-50 plug to charge my brand new EV. This was instrumental in making me feel like it was a job I could tackle. Everything turned out great - thank you!
It’s NEMA 14-50R outlet.
Make sure you shut the power off
How can the conduit system be part of the ground system when it is not continuous to the panel?
It was great video. There are some recommendations:
- Using glows and safety glasses are always better, especially when you work in a live panel. As seen in viodeo, even you as a professional can cut your hand. I understand you are a professional but similarly you could get shock.
-You forgot to use plastic conduit bushings at the termination locations.
-it is better to mark the high of box and cut your conduit accordingly. It can give a better result for box the high, and reduce risk of miscalculations.
-Better to kill the power before start, since your fish teyp is not the plastic one, you could make a short-circuit.
Thank you for the video and fishing tips.
I though plastic bushings are only required in FMC/AC/BX and not EMT/RMC
When working in a live panel with or without a fish tape ( finer glass ) I always
Cover with cardboard . In this case I would push the card board in on the top right
in case I let locknut fall - If would slide out onto the floor . I also squirt some lube in
end of the EMT as I install - much easier to pull on long runs and around bends.
Not bad advice, thanks for the feedback
Make sure you use that safety cardboard.
Too many things to comment on. Not what I would consider a pro job. Retired master electrician. Never worked in a place that would allow a three or four inch chase nipple in the top of the panel and allow all the circuits to run through it. Amazing. Also, if you're going to work on a live panel (And I recommend a DIYer never do such a thing), take a piece of cardboard and tape it over the panel on three sides allowing just enough room to push the top of the cardboard into the panel so that you can insert your fish tape through the top knockout. This should keep you from contacting any live circuits when that fish tape accidentally flops around. Nowadays, they actually have fiberglass fish tapes which would be a lot safer for this job. I also spent 20 years as a paramedic and took countless DIYers to the ER for attempting jobs like this on live panels. JMO.
Not a pro job. Just because it works that doesn't mean it's done correctly, lots of violations.
i don't think this guy knows enough about this to be posting videos. i'm not an electrician, but even i know this wasn't done right. of course i been at it a while and i've done a lot of research on this. even if i was just running 110 i wouldn't have done it this way.
There are old electricians and their are bold electricians. Not too many old and bold electricians. I don't work on live distribution boxes if I can possibly avoid it. Being a woman, I don't have to compensate for 'shortcomings' by taking unnecessary risks.
Great video, cute sparky. I believe 3/4" conduit is too small for current code on #6, I'd have gone up to 1" and lube is your friend.
I’m trying to figure out why he ran 6-3 through conduit - couldn’t he have saved a lot of time and money by running individual THHN/THWN wires? Isn’t the shielding of the 6-3 overkill? And as you mentioned - doesn’t he want to use 1 inch conduit based on the fill space of the 6-3? What am I missing?
Yea fiberglass fish tape for me I used 32 mm 1 and 1/4 in 12th of a kings foot measurements and put in a draw wire for possible additional wiring without ripping it all out or running alongside a few dollars up front 100s saved later.
I have done DIY with electrical for 40 years or more, even rewiring a house with a new breaker box in a house out in the country. I am VERY impressed with how thorough and careful with your explanations were. Thank you for this. I do indeed plan to get a Tesla box, but I will probably pay for that to be done. It will be a brand new house and a brand new car. I will not DIY that one...
He really was so thorough…I had to subscribe! I’m an electrician apprentice right now, and at times we’re on a job for months only putting up lights, so this was a great overall refresher on running wire in EMT, fishing wire, plus some pro tips I’ve heard of before but had forgotten about!
Why wouldn’t you DIY this with your experience?
Come on you can do it, a lot of great tips in the comment section on how this could've been a much smoother installation, like using a 4s box instead of the LB conduit, and transitioning through the wall to the panel with flexible metal conduit or better yet using MC cable and avoiding completely the used of the Romex cable, even installing a 5s box with an industrial raise cover for the receptacle.
@@triguer1 What do you mean with " 4s box instead" ?
@@yvesn58 4s box is a metal box that will be used as a junction box, just like the one he used to put the plug. He should've used one of those instead of the LB. He got into a nightmare trying to run that cable through the LB. There are fittings to connect the wire from the back of the 4s box down to the panel using MC cable, Flex conduit, or even the same Romex cable he used.
An absolutely perfect video on AC electrical systems and how to make it safe and all that being an old shop teacher I have to tell you put on safety glasses before you start any work thank you very much for a good video
Hi, I used your video to install a NEMA outlet for my EV. It was super helpful and I can’t believe I was able to do it myself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
You bet!
As a handyman when I pull any cable using the ground wire, I cut the conductors (Black/Red/White) so they are staggered (different lengths) before taping them to the snake. This gives them a more gradual entry into the conduit.
As a handyman you shouldn't be pulling any wires in anything unless it's your own house. As a licensed electrician I'm constantly fixing handyman specials. You may be the exception to the rule but generally handyman think they know but don't know Jack. Codes updated every 3 years and it's a four-year apprenticeship just to get a journeyman license. Electricity is no joke and should be taken very seriously poor jobs can risk people's lives and safety not to mention property damage. Anybody can pull wire through a piece of conduit but do they know how to derate ,do they know how to do load calculations do they know how to make sure the breakers the right size to protect the wire? there are so many factors that one wouldn't think about.
@@rogerdodger5886 your smart 😢
The video is excellent, detailed and informative. More importantly are the comments below. Each is very insightful as to this installation. Thanks to all.
From one pro to another.... Great video. Popped up in my UA-cam auto play while I was doing chores. Couldn't turn it off. Well done. You really should be teaching in a local trade school if you're not already doing that. Outstanding communication skills.
Then why his wiring look like that.
No he should not, and you are not an electrician, or just the use of romex in EMT, should have had you pulling your hair out!
Very well done installation! For the benefit of the viewers, I must say that when I cut a conduit, I tape all around it at the desired position of the cut (with masking tape or paint edge tape). I then cut along the tape edge with a hack saw, while rotating the conduit at regular intervals. This keeps the cut always visible on the upper side of the conduit. After the cut is completed, I then remove the tape. This ensures that the cut itself is perfectly perpendicular to the edge of the conduit. This method is particularly useful when cutting large diameter pipes, such as for plumbing drain pipes. 2022/01/11. Ontario, Canada.
You do that on a union job, you won't be employed very long,
@@jakeo2600 Do that on any job and you'll be the butt of a lot of jokes.
Damn it, you guys need to do this all over again, for those homeowners who don't have panels in enclosed garages, but have them often on the side of the house a good
35 feet to 50 feet away from the driveway !!!
I agree there isn't any videos out there running 6 gage from the side of the house panel either up from the roof through the sky lol back down to the garage or underground from the side to a garage that is 50 feet away.Most vids are like I bought my 2 feet of Romex at $2 lol you an I are like in the $400 dollar range. anyways The dude that made this video is awesome I love it and it made sense for us DIYers thank you brother, keep it up.
Great vid, thank you so much. Pro electrical engineering tip (Note: we often work in an EE lab with both low and high voltage open equipment with lots of possibility to create a short circuit with any metal objects that might get inside the equipment we are testing) : engineers must remove all conductive jewelry!
Very good advice! Years ago, an electrician friend of my parents died when a ring he was wearing touched a heavy load. Watching the guy in this video was giving me the heebee jeebees because it you get careless for just a split second you can get killed. Much better off to kill the power instead of yourself.
I was taught to wire to the breaker first, then install the breaker in the panel with the wires already. Is there some reason I'm not seeing to seat the breaker first and do the wiring in the more constrained space?
I was taught the same
That can work well on smaller gauge wire like 12 and 10 but i would try to do anything larger with the breaker on the bus bar already to make it easier to give the wire some memory bends to make it look as good as possible but if I’m working inside a very cluttered panel that I just cannot get the wire on the breaker easily I pull the breaker off
You would have been taught in correctly than
Always last thing is breaker and then test
Thanks for being candid. It makes everyone safer including you.
Hubble also makes the Bryant 14-50 Nema receptacle. The Hubble cost $135 on Amazon and the Bryant cost $46 at Grainger(Model: 9450FR). Exact same product, both made by Hubble.
I thought you could not run ROMEX through conduit? Also I think you could use the conduit as your ground if it is metal.
You can 100% run Romex in conduit as long as it's not in a wet or damp location.
@@mr.g937 I guess it is just easier to run THHN wire...
Not an electrician, but if I recall correctly it is OK to run romex through conduit, but usually not a great idea to do so. The fill table ends up treating the normally oval romex as a cylinder, and you need some absurdly oversized conduit to not over-fill the EMT.
I can see why he'd do it for this install, to avoid putting conduit in the wall, but yeah, single conductors seem to be the way to go nearly every time conduit is involved.
@@mr.g937 yes but it need to be derated because it's already inside a pvc jacket which is made to be run free air.
@@ericfraser7543 much a easier to pull thhn, only a meatball would pull romex inside conduit.
Amazing attention to detail and positive attitude here. True mark of a great leader.
Very good video & illustration of this electric installation. The pros were able to identify several areas that need to be considered with this electric project to meet a safe NEC installation. Also, when working in or around energized equipment, OSHA, mandates PPE equipment to be worn for added safety. Always best to de-energize equipment when working in or around electric equipment. Otherwise, a very educational video!
You're right! Safety hasn't been my strong suite (neither has spelling 🙂)
Excellent demonstration on the installation. One of the best I have ever seen.
agreed
This is an awesome tutorial. I love the enthusiasm and all the detail and pro tips to get this job done right. Thank you.
Thanks for making this great informative video. It should be very helpful to new EV owners and to train new electricians [and skilled DIY types]. Given the cost of copper these days, I would install a 6-50 outlet instead of the 14-50. Just be sure to get a 6-50 adapter for your car’s charge cord instead of a 14-50 adapter. This saves the cost of the unused neutral wire. However, if you ever would want to plug in a 50 Amp RV in the future, then go with the 14-50. RVs need the neutral wire and cannot use a 6-50. Another thing to consider is using separate THHN wires to support converting to a dedicated EV wall box with 60 Amp breaker in the future.
Question: Do I run a 6/2 NMB wire for the 6-50 Receptacle . Also should Romex 6/2 wire be in a conduit? Some concerns about heat accumulation in PVC conduit. What do you think?
@@ziamkondkar8273 It’s best to pull individual conductors rather than NM. It’s easier to pull, and reduces potential code issues with the wire overheating - critical if you’re pulling full capacity for a couple hours. In the US you’d be using THHN, and in Canada RA90 or similar.
You may be able to use TECK cable (it’s a very heavy armoured cable with an extra layer of plastic) without conduit. While it’s more expensive than NM once you factor in the cost of conduit it ends up no more expensive.
You are great at explaining what should be explained in depth and I appreciate that you don't just assume that everybody should already know the basics...im a handy man and take pride in my work but learned a whole lot of things in this video that I will use going forward...thanks
Many thanks. Explaining things to us DIYers in clear, concise language we can understand is greatly appreciated.
Awesome instructions! He was very thorough and I learned some things. And like a true electrician, he never mentioned cleaning up 😅
That's hilarious! I've tried to improve regarding specifying clean up in my vids 🙂
🤣 haha yasssssss
In general your main panel the grounds and neutrals are bonded - if a sub panel they must be separated. In a house there is only ONE location (at the main panel) where neutrals and ground are connected together and attached to a grounding electrode (like a ground rod)
Installed mine with no issues thanks to your video! Ty
Why do you use 6/3 romex rather than individual conductors? It seems like individual wires would have been much easier to pull and to make the bend in the L-box.
Great video and excellent information. Thanks.
that's one of the errors. you aren't supposed to run ROMEX through conduit.
That metal cover plate on the receptacle has sharp corners that will slice open a hand. Get a smooth galvanized cover plate that follows the shape of the box. Way more safe. Great vid!
Thank you for this video! I followed it step by step, and made use of pretty much every tip and trick mentioned. And now I am charging my new electric car in my garage. This video provided exactly the level of detail I needed to do the install.
As a union electrician western suburbs of Chicago this is nuts. First off go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap fish stick set. Next is location dependent . We don't use rope a dope here everything is emt. For all the work you did fishing that wall it would have been faster to make a nice easy offset out the top of the panel and surface mount the whole thing. A little drywall patch and your done. The romex through the pipe was crazy, just buy some wire and push it . I'm not sure if that is even code. I like the idea of EV cars and I know people are shocked (no pun intended) at the cost of 240 install but some things regular folk just shouldn't mess with. Just last month I got tagged doing a friend a favor, Who knew this guys father 40 years ago switched the white wires for the basement lights. Again this was emt and thhn wire. My fault for not tick testing first.
Thank you, im from Chicago as well and I thought I was going crazy for telling him to just cut the damn drywall and make the full conduit connection from the beginning to the end. Drywall and some patch work isnt that hard. This is the lazy way to do it and not to code (maybe in his area but not everywhere thats for sure). Disliked video for the lazy work.
rob m knows whats up
You should use the fiberglass fisher tool to guide the wires on live panel... thank you
Great Video don’t even have a car, garage and live in Europe with other standards, nothing of this affects me but i still watched the whole thing
Folks, 1 neutral wire per connection point. DO NOT share the screw position. 1 neutral. 2 grounds.
After the 1st point of disconnect, you must separate the neutrals from the grounds. (typically a sub panel).
If this is being inspected (which it probably isn't going to be) don't let an inspector see a ground and neutral on one screw or 2 neutrals.
Also, not exactly necessary, but ground the receptacle box with a pigtail. The emt/box/recep all bonds back to the panel, but it is good practice to also bond the box by using a copper crimp to a pigtail and then to the receptacle. Old schoolers will tell you don't bother, you tell them to f off.
Would the potential hazard of an ungrounded recep. box be if it were ever to be energized due to a short to the hot somehow, then potentially someone could make contact with the box and get zooted? So if the recep box is grounded, if it ever gets energized by the hot wire fraying and making contact with it, what happens? Does it just cause the circuit breaker to trip? What if it's only a tiny little fray wire and it doesn't cause a massive current draw? could it potentially cause localized heating of a wooden stud and fire? please fill me in im curious as grounds were never really explained all that well as to how they actually worked to provide safety, other than tripping a GFCI on a bathroom circuit or something, but what about circuits without GFCI on them?
@@localbroadcast Obligatory "I am not an electrician". There is quite possibly some nuance I've missed, but the broad strokes should be reliable.
Yes, that's the main reason for any and all metalwork enclosing high voltage electrical wiring to be grounded and or bonded - if any part of that exposed metalwork comes into contact with a live conductor, the breaker will trip from overcurrent (or any other present protections such as Arc Fault or Ground Fault protections if present on the breaker and applicable to the specific fault), thus preventing the metalwork from *staying* live for more than a split second and simultaneously drawing attention to the fault by preventing the circuit from working (live exposed metal will eventually zap *someone*, it's just a matter of time) . The only worse case scenario than silently live exposed metal is an actual fire.
As to the other part of the question, that's an important reason to take the grounding connections every bit as seriously as the live ones: So long as the grounding connection is made properly and in good condition, the impedance and resistance of that path will be extremely low - hence any ground fault from a live conductor will cause a *massive* amount of current to flow. This ensures that the breaker trips immediately, before significant heating of the branch wiring can occur. If you have a high-resistance connection, that connection will heat up. If it's high resistance *enough* to prevent a breaker trip, it could indeed potentially create a fire - though I would think that that happens a lot more commonly on loose connections on the live and neutral conductors since you'd have a load completing the circuit instead of a short circuit, meaning the circuit resistance and impedance are added to the load, so you don't have a massive current flow but still have heating at the poor connection. If you have a tiny strand of live wire contacting a ground, you've still got a low-resistance and low-impedance path for current to flow on 99% of that circuit, and maybe a couple ohms at absolute most between the tiny strand and whatever it's touching.... that strand of wire just became a fuse. Either the strand blows clear, the breaker pops, or both in the vast, vast majority of cases. Even a 5 ohm resistance on a short circuit at 120V will draw 24A for 2.88Kw of heat produced at the fault - if your strand is tiny enough and badly connected enough to create 5 ohms, it definitely can't handle nearly 3000 watts of heat without melting clear in extremely short order.
In the electrical trade it is very hard to give absolutes because each piece is designed for its own special use.
Generally, one screw-one wire.
Breakers use heat, magnetism, or electronics to detect the current draw and open the breaker. A short circuit, like cutting a cable a cable with wire cutters can result in currents near 5,000 amps in that small instant of time the breaker takes to trip.. Yes, even #14 wire nears 5,000 amps. (Electrical welding of the cutters or burning some steel away.)
GFCI's use electronic circuits to detect the current going out and coming back through the gcfi. When the difference gets to about 5 mAmps,, it trips to prevent current from going through the gfci and down an unknown path. This should protect people and equipment.
Because their functions are different, someone cutting a live cable down stream (a load on gfci) will not trip the gfci, the breaker will. Most gfci's will then trip on "no power" and require they be reset also, after the breaker is re-shut, after power is restored.
In a normal scenario when the box is grounded, any connection with the hot wire will again cause thousands of amps to shoot through the breaker and trip it.(should it get only close enough to arc, a standard breaker may not open, thus AFCI breakers.)
The nec still lists emt conduit as an acceptable equipment ground. However, in this case, the conduit does not run back to the panel and would not be effective as a ground.
Now things get interesting. The nec does allow grounding of the box by connecting the equipment ground to the recepticle and that connection through the mounting metal strap creates an effective ground path.
Hope this gets your question answered. If not, let me know. Maybe a different explanation can be given.
@@keithharrington8715 if someone cuts Romex, chances are they'll hit ground before they hit neutral if cutting front the hot side first. This means some current going back on ground. If it's GFCI protected in that spot, it'll pop the GFCI. Which is why I like GFCI breakers at times.
@@adamplummer2190 I would like to exqmine what you are saying here.
First, the NEC requires rounds ND neutrals be eectrically connected at the first means of disconnect for the service (main panel) ......making them about electrically the same.
Now, let's try n some numbers.....
14 awg wire has a resistance of about 2.5 ohms per every though and feet. So a 50 foot run (out + back) should have a resistance of about (100 ft) or 0.5 ohms. So, our circuit resistance from the breaker to the cut spot is about one half ohm. Say zero for the gfci and the wire cutters are also zero.
So our total circuit resistance is 0.5 ohms when the cutter hit metal.
Current is. I=E/R
I = 12 vac / 0.5 ohm.
I = 240 amps seen on your 15 amp breaker protecting the gfic.
Since both the breaker and the gfci both see this value at the exqct same time.....I do not think it matters which one trips first. I know the gfci will trip on a loss of power when the breaker trips.
Now, I did the simple math here.....no impedance or vectors for the AC voltage, got the ohm value in Google, and used rms voltage not peak to peak.
If you find a problem or error I made please let me know.
If you need code sections let me know. Ch 9 table 8 might have a slightly different number, I was lazy wit Google.
Again, I calculate over 200 amps through your 15 amp breaker the instant the cutters hit copper.
Pro tip: when fishing wire in a live panel, put a large piece of cardboard inside to cover up all the breakers and feeders. Also wear safety glasses at all times. Where I am, we would not put Romex inside conduit. Run stranded wire and conduit all the way. A “telephone 90” fitting can be used to get into the panel easily.
Good tips, both. Only a DIYer, but I thought running Romex through a conduit was a no-no, due to its inability to dissipate heat
This guy wire installation is so amazing! Well done & clean!
Awesome video! Thank-you so much for sharing your skills in Electrical installs. I picked up on several of your tips (at least 10) that you can't find in any books. I've pulled wire thru conduit and made the work much harder than necessary - with your tips, I'm actually looking forward to the next adventure with cable and conduit. Again, Thanks
Amaà of of
I particular liked the bending of the wire to get into the breaker.....
Whoa, why not transition to THHN instead of trying to pull Romex through conduit?
That was going to be one of my questions.
So it can go behind the drywall.
Yeah, not necessarily illegal, but man there were better choices. I get that he was trying to use materials readily available to the homeowner. But as someone else already pointed out, 6 feet of FMC from the condulet to the panel, and then just install three (3) #8 + (1) #10G (also readily available at the homecenter) and you have a much better installation.
Romex is not meant to be used in a conduit like that, it gets hotter than it should. Using THHN would be the right way to do this. You'd think a pro would know that stuff.
Only amateurs pull romex thru conduit. Against NEC code and too much motion lotion required for pulling.
Good morning family and good health to everyone. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time 👍🏼👍🏼.
I liked your presentation. When working with a live panel I use a non-conductive fishtape. Although a LB looks nicer, I prefer a 4-11/16 deep j-box above the panel to get a proper wire bend and easy installation. Also I would have stripped the jacket off the Romex between j-boxes.
Green fiberglass stick?
One think I never do is run a metal fish in a live panel. Having been in a arc flash myself and seen others you learn. I see someone said they done it a thousand times. He has been lucky and maybe 1001 will make him smarter. Rest of the video was good but also agree you need to jumper your ground wire to the box.
Circuit Breaker, I have done it many times, but I'm a pro.
@john alt yes indeed you may think you're a pro but accidents do happen. For an instructional video it should of been a fiber glass or nylon snake and or the metal snake should of been tape up at least 8FT but that's bit annoying to do. There is so many OSHA rules and safety we all have to follow in NY or other states.
Not a pro, but I don’t think you want to bond neutral to earth on sub panels. Only one bond per building.
I was going to said that too, they sell some fiberglass fish rods that are great for that , since you know when those metal fish tapes move aré incontrolable, the rest I have no complaint
Ohh yeah I forgot the receptacle box needs a # 10 pigtail and spliced and get another pigtail for the receptacle. Also an industrial cover would look better since is surface mounted
This is great! Now how do we do this when the breaker panel is in the basement?
Something that jumped out 4 me is isn't the ground wire at the receptacle supposed to be attached to the metal box?!
Nice video. I would use safety glasses, especially working in a live electrical panel. Secondly, I would use an insulated fish tape while in a live panel.
Thanks for the feedback Bill
Very comprehensive video.I'm in the learning mode,so this was perfect.Getting ready to install TESLA charger.
Very good, piping and landing the wires also good job on explaining to regular ppl who may not understand how to do this as a diy, But you missed one big/small detail you forgot to ground the metal outlet box with a pigtail or grounding screw NEC article 250.148.
One correction - NEC 625.54 require that EV charging receptacles be GFCI protected so you should have used a GFCI breaker. (garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected as well.)
Good point, missed that one
So the ev is going to be pulling 40 amp max because. Nec 625.41 this is a continuos load
40x1.25= 50 amp current protection.
Can I use a 60 amp breaker instead of 50?
The tesla wall charger and others are GFCI PROTECTED INSIDE THE CHARGER SO YOU DONT NEED GFCI BRAKER BUT LIKE THE 14-50 AND 6-50 ARE NOT GFCI PROTECTED YOU NEED A GFCI BREAKER.
@@alexmckay5447 what kind of charger are you installing?
Excellent video, Thank you! I do not have a main panel in the garage however my meter is just outside the garage. I am going to install a single DO 50 amp breaker in a an A/C type box on the garage inside wall near the outside meter, use your information to install the inside plug receptacle then have an electrician make the short connection through the garage wall and to the meter stand. Again a very well done video!
A couple of notes, I just did almost exactly the same installation here. The only difference was that the panel was surface mounted, and a weather proof outlet was surface-mounted outdoors on brick - we don't park cars in the garage because they rot in winters quicker, and I used slightly oversized PVC conduit surface-mounted with glued joints. I only needed a pull elbow to make the sharp turn thru the exterior wall.
1) Our codes in particular, and I suspect to a certain extent the NEC, frowns on NMD cable in conduit for long lengths - it's a heat dissipation issue. A few feet are fine (such as a drop to a switch from the ceiling), but not 20+ feet. Use individual conductor, it'll also be easier to pull.
2) 50A chargers are usually available in BOTH 14-50 (2hot, 1neutral and ground) and 6-50 (2 hot, ground) when you order. Since they're pure 240V,
they don't need a neutral. Which will save you some expensive copper. In my case, I wanted to dual-purpose the outlet for a welder. The welder was 6-50, so the choice was even more obvious. Think about such considerations and make sure that the charger and outlet agree.
3) Even here, where the panels are *required* to not allow access to the main wiring when the circuit panel door is off (you have to remove another door), I recommend against implying to DIYers it's a possibility, even if you "recommend" DIYers not do it.
I am a DIYer, and do lots of work on panels, and much of it live. BUT here's the important part: if someone asks me whether it's safe, my answer is ALWAYS: "if you have to ask, it isn't safe." This is only something you can answer for yourself after gaining experience and intimately understanding what you're doing and what can bite you.
An unrelated question: cars rot *faster* if you keep them in a garage in winter? I am not sure I have ever heard that said, but I love ot learn. Why would it be? The only reason I can imagine is if you make the case that the higher temperatures will cause the oxidation reaction between metal(s) and salt to happen faster, which is probably true but not to a significant degree AFAIK. On the other hand, every single other component of the car - and there are a lot of 'other compontents' will be very negatively affected, so I am a bit at a loss.
@@luigifabio77 The critical thing here is temperature cycling of the underside of the vehicle (including inside wheel wells etc) and available moisture and evaporation rates. Especially with garages attached to a house, the vehicle will be experiencing wilder swings in temperature, and usually rather higher humidity swings and less air flow to dry things off.
For example, a vehicle kept outdoors all the time can accumulate ice/frozen slush/road salts which freeze and stay frozen for long periods and be extremely slow reacting with metal. In a garage, it may go through thaw/refreeze more than once a day (eg: your driving trips and just temperature swings thru the day), and be at rather higher humidity - worse there's less airflow so things will dry off slower indoors.
There's a similar scenario in the warmer times. A vehicle parked on grass (or dirt or gravel) will rot out faster than if it was parked on concrete or asphalt. The much more porous (and higher surface area of grass) provides a lot more and longer lasting moisture supply under the vehicle.
Even the normal rust proofing cars these days (let alone when you apply some aftermarket solution) will help, but if you're talking about an older vehicle (or a utility trailer) it can be quite pronounced. I've had people suggest that even parking your vehicle over top of a layer of plastic sheeting overtop of gravel can help slow rust down.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 fine as you state it, but given that a garage will be dryer AND warmer I am doubtful things will dry faster in the winter outdoors compared to inside a garage, especially if the garage is heated in any way.
I can see the scenario you describe, at least as relates to the freeze-thaw cycles possibly, in climates where the temperatures stay solidly below 32 throughout the day coupled with small, non HVACed garages.
That's a fairly specific scenario, however, taht we definitely don't get here (E coast).
@@luigifabio77 Well, yeah, if you're in the banana belt, where freezing temperatures are relatively short, you're actually HVAC'ing a garage and road salt isn't used.
In the US northern states, and the great white north, few people are crazy rich enough to heat their garages, and road salt is used, they're damp just about continuously through the winter with parking a car in it. The only garages that are somewhat heated is only because they share walls with a house, and the garage-house membrane leaks. Which you try very hard for a number of reasons to minimize - it's code compliance - leaky attached garages waste money, deteriorate structure and can kill you.
My detached garage is an oversize insulated double and originally no heat. But the floor was gravel, and every fall and spring there was a period of time where any exposed bare metal (eg: the tables on my stationary tools) would rust in a day or three, but would rust far slower if they had been outdoors and merely sheltered from rain/snow.
Since then I've had a concrete floor poured, and I have two 4800 watt construction heaters when I need heat in the garage for a few days (eg: painting stuff during the winter), but it's usually off. During the winter the garage goes weeks if not a month or two at -5 to -10C.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 right. I am not that far from the north and there's PLENTY of salt being used. Though yes, whole days below freezing are the exception, not the norm, except maybe for the first week of January.
And yes, the attached garage is heated by the common wall with the house - but the non-attached garage has heating which is set to 38F during the winter. Both of them have dehumidifiers running as well when the heating is on.
The cars and the tools seem to like it.
I will agree that an unheated garage with a gravel floor is probably the worst possible environment for anything metal, you'll get no dispute from me there...
I think we have clarified where our different points of view come from, thank you!
Attaching the power wires to the unattached breaker, and then snapping the breaker into the box, is a slightly easier way to proceed. Anyway thanks for doing it LIVE! (Ha ha ha)🙂
I’ve done several projects similar to this in my house. I’m a DIY’er (D-I-Wire !). Here are my recommendations based upon what I do in general, and what I viewed in this video (in no particular order):
When cutting EMT conduit, definitely use the five-gallon bucket. However, drill two 1.5” holes right underneath the top of the bucket, 180 degrees apart so they’re on opposite sides. Cut the tops of the holes out using a utility knife. Now you have a bucket with two grooves to hold the conduit. You can also drill and cut 1” holes 90 degrees from the 1.5” grooves. This arrangement helps to stabilize the conduit while you cut since it won’t roll away.
A ratcheting pipe cutter will cleanly cut PVC conduit in a few seconds, without burrs needing to be trimmed. That is the main reason why I switched and now always use PVC conduit. The segments glue together so no unsightly set screws sticking out. Wipe them off with mineral spirits (or even Windex) then paint to match the wall color if you want. I found it more time consuming to paint EMT, plus there’s the unsightly set screws to paint also. Additionally, unlike EMT, PVC conduit will not energize.
I *ALWAYS* thread my conductors through each segment of conduit before gluing together and before fastening to the wall. Well if the conduit segments are short, then I will connect two or more of them together first before threading conductors. This technique, to a great extent, avoids the hassle of difficult wire pulls through a completed conduit system, particularly if there are multiple 90 degree bends in different planes, as in this video’s project.
Speaking of bends in different planes, it is challenging to do this using metal fish tape because it only flexes in one plane. Donate it to Goodwill and get yourself fiberglass fish tape since it bends in all planes with ease. I used to think it was plastic but it’s actually fiberglass. A critical added benefit is that you will not electrocute yourself if your fiberglass fish tape contacts an energized component. And if you insist upon using metal fish tape, then wear non-conducting gloves on both hands. As an added bonus, they will prevent a soft tissue injury from the metal edges of the fish tape.
Still on the subject of fish tape, I regularly use Wire Pulling Foam Lubricant when there are bends or fittings in the conduit which can impede pulling the conductors through. It cleans up easily so I prefer the spray foam lubricant.
Is your fish tape hanging up somewhere inside a lengthy, complicated conduit system? Here is a technique that will knock your socks off. Get a ball of string, a Shop-Vac, and Shop-Vac fittings to connect the suction hose to PVC conduit. Turn on the Shop-Vac then feed string through the other end of a long conduit system. Pretty soon the string will be sucked through the conduit system from one end to the other. Turn off the Shop-Vac and secure both ends of the string to both ends of the conduit. Next, affix one end of the string to the end of the fiberglass fish tape. Alternate advancing the fish tape with pulling the string from the other end of the conduit system. When you get to the obstruction, unwind a few feet of fish tape then pull on the string from the other side. May have to go back and forth a few times, but very soon you will be able to advance the fish tape past whatever had been hanging it up. This technique is particularly useful for conduit laid underground for future installation of lawn lighting systems, but can be used inside the residence as well if needed. Naturally this works better with two people coordinating at either end, but I’ve done this by myself several times.
I prefer THHN to Romex but without conduit behind the garage wall in this video, you will need Romex for the entire installation to avoid junctions. In some circumstances, you can install a junction box in order to go from Romex behind drywall to THHN within PVC conduit outside of the walls.
Hard-wired wall-mounted “car chargers” do not need a neutral conductor. Copper prices are outrageous now. Skip the NEMA receptacle and the neutral conductor. Save a bundle.
Electricians, both professional and amateur (like myself) *MUST* have and use a quality stud-finder. Imagine, in this video presentation, if the electrician, after having removed the service panel’s upper-right knock-out, had encountered a horizontal stud at some point between the panel and the ceiling! He would then have had to cut through drywall. A quality stud-finder would have assured an obstruction-free passage from point A to point B. On the other end of this project, a stud-finder would have aided in the optimal placement of the NEMA receptacle junction box to take advantage of securing it with screws into at least one stud. In this video’s project, turns out that’s what happened. But an electrician shouldn’t resort to serendipity. Plan the conduit path in advance so junction boxes are (mostly) screwed into studs.
Last but not least, I secure the ends of the hot conductor(s) into circuit breakers and *THEN* snap the breakers into the service panel. That way I can hold the breaker tightly in one hand and the screwdriver in the other hand, rather than torqueing the breaker within the panel while tightening the hot wire screw(s). Furthermore, if for some reason the screwdriver ‘gets away from you’ while tightening, the tip will push through the air, rather then into an energized component within the service panel. And for goodness sakes, wear non-conducting gloves when working within a live service panel.
Any comments will be appreciated.
Looks good, one thing, you could’ve used a j box and just put an extension then ran you’re conduit. Again 1000 ways to skin a cat but i think that would have made it easier for your install. 2. Your box or conduit isn’t grounded, you would need to ground the box with a pigtail in the case for whatever reason the box became energized you want a path to ground.
Thanks for the video. Your friend is an enthusiastic electrician and a great teacher. Agree with commenters that some things could have been done better. For instance, much prefer THHN wire in conduit and would like to see a conduit system go from panel to box. Would consider the installed tubing in this case to be more of a protective sleeve rather than a true conduit system. Also not a fan of the faceplate arrangement on the wiring device. Regardless, enjoyed the video. Always glad to see other pros work. Keep up the great work!
Excellent video, several good tips. Turn off breaker before installing into panel, wear safety glasses, no floating screwdrivers near panel.
Why wasn’t the copper wire in the box not grounded to the four inch box?
Yeah, I feel like he could’ve minimized risk by shutting off the main breaker. Yeah the bottom part would still be live but it’s a lot less space that’s energized. Good tips on the cardboard and fiberglass fish rods. I’m gonna keep those in mind for my future projects.
Overall good video though, and was laid out well, and well presented.
You’re a great instructor! Very clear easy to follow and understand. Thanks for sharing!
This is a good way to do it. I just did a very similar thing for a 40 amp electric heater except I used flexible metal conduit. For me I ran my wire in the conduit and then put it up because that wire is tough to manage. And I just used an outside junction box to near my elect panel to wire it. Really the hardest part is dealing with the thick wire. And just to note, I turned off the power and also bought insulated screwdrivers and pliers to use.
Not correct..not legal..not d
Safe
Not good way..illegal..unsafe
@@joeferry2723 Thanks for the useless comment not specifying which part was illegal or unsafe.
@@youtube_acct_42ALL OF IT WAS UNSAFE.
I thought this was a great video and I learned a lot, both from the video and the comments. From a safety standpoint I'd agree with the comments that too many shortcuts were taken (live panel, no PPE).
From a technical standpoint it seems there were other ways to do the job but there were still many good tips for someone with general interest which is how it was presented in the intro.
Hey fellow canuck
Hey fellow canucks. He does say that if you are a DIY you should turn off the panel. I've rarely see experienced electricians turn off panels. I'm guilty of that but don't recommend it. One big difference between Canadian electrical panels and US panels, Canadian panels required any conductors before the disconnect breaker must be in a separate compartment. There is often a cover plate that covers the feed side. The idea is if you turn off the main breaker, no exposed parts of the panel will be energized.
@@domenicdefrancesco hey Domenic! Yes, he does say that but then does a lot of work in a live panel. I know guys do it, like you I don't think it's not a great practice whether you're a pro or not.
Good point about the mains being covered in Canada. I hadn't realized that. 🙂
if i saw this video 10 years ago i'll be doing electrician job because this is great video very nice Love from pakistan.
i didnt know you can put those wires through the conduit. I thought it had to be indivdiual wires to avoid heating
You can … you just should NEVER .
Your right, you are not supposed to
This video is really awesome!! I learned a lot. Your guest host was great with his presentation. I will keep this video in my must have/see folder.
It's not perfect and I'm far from perfect, but I appreciate your encouragement!
This was a fun video, and I actually found it more enjoyable than most of Joel's videos. It seemed more straightforward with less joking around. It also explained a lot more that I think is sometimes skipped over with his usual videos, maybe because this was intended for DIYers.
This guy belongs in Low voltage data work
You can’t feed a 50A continuous load with a 50A circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers, including the Square D QO breakers shown in this video, are only rated for 80% duty. This means that even though the 50A circuit breaker will supply 50A, it is not meant for supplying that much current for 3 hours or more. This setup would, however, be sufficient for supplying 40A continuously since 50A breaker x 0.8 = 40A. I’m sure this is what you meant.
Most home EV chargers are 40A or less.
What size of conduit are you using for 6/3 Romex wire? Can i use PVC conduit for 6/3 romex wire?
Using Romex in the conduit in this application is not ideal (against code in wet locations). I would recommend you get THHN wires cut to the length you need. In my area Home Depot sells THHN by the foot. You could use 3/4" schedule 40 conduit which will fit 4 x 6-gauge wires.
You generally aren't supposed to run cables through conduit, just individual conductors. That's why it was so hard to pull. Should've installed a J box above the panel, brought the Romex from the panel to that J box, then transitioned to the EMT, with THHN conductors. Then make sure there are grounding/bonding pigtails on the boxes. Or just cut the wall open and run the EMT the whole way and patch it after. Lastly, it's 240 volts, not 220. There's no 110 or 220 in the USA, just 120VAC and 240VAC.
It's code compliant to put multi conductor cables in conduit if it's to protect it from damage.
Which code states that running NM cable through conduit is unacceptable? I have heard that myth repeated over and over, but I have yet to see any codes that substantiate that claim. But with that said, I suppose individual wires might be a bit easier/faster to pull and maybe a little cheaper.
@@averyalexander2303 It isn't against code but you have to size the conduit properly, adjust ampacity if necessary, and you cannot put the NM inside of a conduit if the conduit is outside. He struggled to run that cable through the conduit because it was too tight of a fit, then he didn't use lube, and he didn't properly bond/ground the EMT. To me there are several other better ways to have done this installation.
@@illestofdemall13 Makes sense, thanks for clarifying! As I said I agree that individual wires would have overall been a better method for this application.
@@averyalexander2303 The installer knows how to "make it work" but there are some key issues that he missed. If you are following the NEC and also doing the job safely, then there are several ways to do it. One big issue I see is having a piece of EMT used to protect the cable, but it isn't bonded/grounded to the ground of the cable that's coming from the panel and going to the charger receptacle. This could potentially be a shock hazard to the customer if there happened to be a ground fault inside of the conduit. He is only relying on the ground screw of the receptacle and the mounting screws of the receptacle yoke to complete electrical continuity of the ground.
Thank you so much for this great video. I was able to install my 14-50 NEMA receptacle very easy thanks to your detailed instructions and materials guide. Again thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the common “Do it yourselfer!” 😊
If you have an unfinished area like a garage, receptacles need to GFCI protected. For 240V, you can get a 2-pole GFCI breaker
Genuinely curious why you would use romex in EMT?
Real electricians don't only hacks on UA-cam
As a certified Tesla installer and a electrical contractor I have installed literally hundreds of Nema 14-50s and Tesla car chargers over the last 5 years. I really wish you would not tell "do it your selfers" to attempt this. I have been asked by Tesla to replace a number of improperly installed units because of improperly connected or torqued wires and other installer failures. There are too many places that wire can be nicked by novices or kinked with improper radius and over bending.
I also was horrified at you using a metal fish tape in a live panel. I have taught a number of apprentices and I would never suggest using any conductive fish tape in a live panel. Fiberglass or nylon tapes are cheap. Your life is not. Also use insulated screwdrivers in a live panel. Wear gloves and eye protection always. Get a reamer tool, a stud finder and some other easy tools to afford.
Also, one thing about running Romex in conduit. There is a heat dissipation issue. I was taught never run Romex over a foot in a conduit of any kind. If you have to, oversize the conduit. Maybe use one inch if you have to or run flex down through the wall to the panel and use regular stranded wire.
All terminal screws should always be torqued with a flat blade or square drive screwdriver. Do not use a phillips.
Final note: use an industrial type cover not the stainless finish cover you used for surface mounts. That cover you used is for in the wall applications.
Very sad, there are alot of ppl just like this guy on YT giving bad info. Only electricity is extremely dangerous and I think some ppl really don't understand it like professionals do.😔
I am guilty as charged for using UA-cam for stuff. That said I just cringe when I see these guys showing anything more than swapping out an outlet. Somebody is going to get killed.
Question. Here he's presumably installing 240. Here in the SF bay area, I haven't seen 240 anywhere. Is 208 sufficient for charging a tesla?
How about stripping the Romex sheath inside the conduit until you exit the conduit body inside the wall. Would be an easier pull and no heat gain in the conduit.
@@marcbreault9371 the insulation on the bare wire would have to be rated. The easier way would have been to pipe it 100 percent of the way and use THHN wire. Even if he didn't have access to a bender for the pipe to make a offset out of the top of the panel there's ways around that. For example, a piece of 3/4 flex in the wall up to that box. Or a short section of flex out the of panel to the finished side of drywall and then a flex connector into a barrel connector to a emt connector. I believe there's a connector that does this in on shot. I have a 1/2inch one floating around so guess there's a 3/4 one. The take away from this is just because you have a UA-cam channel doesn't necessarily mean it is a good idea to promote showing people projects above peoples pay grade.