Just took the latest Bosch training class a couple weeks ago. Trainer was showing us a new spray coating that you can put on any board or electronics to protect from moisture. Stuff is so good he was touching the line voltage inputs and the voltage wouldn't shock through the coating. He said you can coat the evap coil too and extend the life from rust and corrosion.
My first bosch installed for my cousin was the M15 back in 2022, has been working flawlessly (knock on wood). I didn't even have a surge protector on it, this was before it was a known problem. I also have the M18M recently installed in my rental property, but with a surge protector.
There is a circle that with a picture of a screw by the capacitor. If you take a small flat head screw driver and pop out that round board piece. You take one of the board screws and tighten it in that spot and it will separate the board from the heat sync.
I have a whole house surge protector installed at the main panel, surge protector at the air handler and surge and voltage monitor in each condenser unit. I haven't had an issue in two years. Fingers crossed. One tip is to pig-tail the surge protector because that disconnect terminals are not rated to take two wires.
A door panel popper will pry that board off easily. Not the nut driver style but there's a style with a spring on it that has a handle similar to shears and it pulls and pushes at the same time to pop door panels easily to not break Christmas tree clips. Would be perfect for this. 👍🏼
Sometimes it's junky components in most cases but those boards are divided up into different parts and depending upon which area of the board fails usually can give you a indication of what is going on. It is absurd that every time a board goes bad that the manufacturer wants to condemn it based upon a power surge . A power surge usually voids warranty .
I may be mistaken but you are not supposed to double lug the load-voltage and surge protector wires, you should use wire nuts to tie in load side from disconnect to surge protector. Double luging is not allowed per NEC codes.
I had a new 3 ton Bosch 20 SEER installed less than a month ago. We lost power 2 days ago around 10:30 PM. I noticed the next morning the evaporator fan was not running and the suction line on the condensing unit outside was frosted over. The condensing fan operating very slow. Called my guy and he found the 3 amp fuse on the evap board blown along with the board burned in that area. During the installation he had installed a RSH-VRM60A surge protector. I was able to toggle through the digital readout and see the voltage had spiked to 275 vac at one point. This protection is ONLY on the out side condensing unit and not on the evap unit under house. My question is should the evap unit have this same type of protection?
I dunno expensive sensitive electronics sitting inside of a heat generating metal box in various moisture conditions always makes me nervous 😒 Years back in my old crib I bought this expensive (for me at the time) Phillips home theater system I smoked two of them under warranty before getting a third replacement. Got curious so I used a kilowatt plug in meter to see what it was drawing compared to spec it was an undercurrent condition. The surge protector offers no protection for that. I also smoked a few car amps that way too...🤔
Guys …. If you watched the Bosch Utube service videos … they would show you that the release screw would be the easiest way to release the bad board from the aluminum heat exchanger… My next question would be WHY did the good board become a BAD board.. did you ohm out the compressor, the fan motor, the PT??? Also I would have order the EAssembly part that is the corner metal part … w/ board already installed ….. Bosch does NOT have any recommendations on surge protection…. Thanks Fred C
Looks as if what ever this customer might have saved on their electric bill was just used to make this repair. Also how many days were they down without AC as you got the parts for repairs? It'll always be best to follow the Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) principle and buy the most basic unit possible.
The new inverter driven, fancy stuff works very well, and often very reliably... If designed correctly. This particular unit likely has some sort of a design fault, judging by the fact that the replacement board had a different brand, and size of capacitors attached to the component that failed. Think about how long your VCR, or stereo from the 80's has been working. There is really no reason why these things can't last decades, but on occasion, manufacturers make mistakes.
This is the first one that actually burnt a hole. The other two were recommended by Bosch tech support to be replaced due to phantom errors. Bosch never actually gave me a solid reason. Everything checked out and voltage is good coming in.
Hi there I just had my Bosch bova 15 installed a couple of days ago I can’t keep it from constantly running when set at 70 but it cycles correctly at 72 degrees my old Payne unit used to be set at 70 all the time and go through its cycles am I missing something?
It is not uncommon for a Bosch Heat Pump to have long run times at low speeds. I’d say if you’re still concerned after a week to 10 days of installation, call the installation company back and let them know your concerns.
@@adekunleogunwumiju4905 A couple things I would check for is to make sure the home is well insulated. Make sure the windows and doors make good seals. A well insulated house can make a huge difference in HVAC performance. Also make sure the thermostat location makes sense for the way the house and HVAC system is laid out. It could be an issue with the system but I would have those things checked.
The Bosch makes IDS 15, 18, and 20 series, those numbers do not equate to automatic seer ratings, those are up to ratings. There are many combinations and Both HSPF and SEER vary with them, my company have about 40 Bosch systems under our belt starting in 2019, majority have been the IDS 18, a few IDS 20, and several IDS 15. Also have not had a single failure with any of them. All are a mix of new construction and replacements. If you look at ARI ratings, there is a huge difference like all manufactures between HP with air handler and Duel fuel SEER performance, we do more duel fuel and the IDS18 and 15 make more sense. Even in a strait HP/AH situation the 20 only hits that SEER in a certain situations. But then in replacements, we evaluate and test the most critical component and base equipment of of that. Which is the duct system. If I cannot correct a poorly designed and sized duct system, my customer gains nothing by purchasing higher SEER. This isn't a concern in new construction for us, as all systems are Designed using manual J, D, and S criteria. Bottom line is SEER and HSPF vary hugely by capacity and unit series, but neither number are as important as having a duct system that lets them achieve that number. In my 36 years I cannot count the time I dealt with unhappy customers that bought High efficiency that didn't meet claims, when lower efficiency with a proper duct system would have. I forget if it was proctor engineering or the Energy conservatory, or another that did a great est on that theory in the 90's, but results were that a properly sized, designed and installed lower rated system, beat out the highest efficiency rated units when not properly sized, designed and installed. Numbers matter, but some matter more than others, and SEER isn't the one that matters most.
Sorry to content again Jeff but like a reply I just sent part of the problem is also hvac guys doing dumb things like redoing ductwork when it does not need to be completely redone just so they can milk the custumer out of an extra 4 or 5 grand. Like replacing a whole 2 zone system with a damper and an upstairs and downstairs thermostat. that came up from the basement that was fine and then splitting the ductwork off and installing seperate ductwork in the attic when that did not need to be done especially an open attic space. with a bunch of flex duct so you can sell the custumer 2 3 ton gree flex units. When the old package unit from 1984 was a 5ton and that was the correct size. And just selling the custumer one 5 ton gree flex would have been the correct thing to do. And the old ductwork was sealed properly and still working quite well. I am commenting because when I saw that you tube video from an hvac company I was ready to yell what the hell are you doing let's say it made me really angry now if the custumer said I want you to do that. It's another story and with me I would tell you that upfront. But don't take advantage of people like that.
What companies have learned (and this applies to about everything) is that the more complex they make things the more likely consumers will just upgrade with new. It works to their benefit not to produce simplicity. Government assists by requiring the efficiency of the complex equipment.
Bosch is a German based brand and is generally super high quality I think the issue is bosch was starting to use parts from China and I don't mean Taiwan. Or the Phillipines and while I am glad bosch is doing inverter systems my problem is the us keeps pushing the conventional top mount condenser. When most countries use side discharge condensers and have for years. Also most countries including European countries have been using r 32 refrigerent. And finnaly like I have said r 410 a should have never been used as the replacement in manufacturing for r 22 units but 407 c should have been the refrigerent considering it is not bieng phased out like 410a. And has like pressures for R 22. Meaning you could have kept manufacturing hvac systems the same way with the difference bieng the compressor comes filled with poe instead of mineral oil. But no in the US we have to make it more complicated and as a result the quality suffers even down to the boards.
@@Ali.A72 407 c I read was not bieng phased out yet. But 410 a is. Also 407 c contains r 134 a as part of the blend but personally I am liking that r32 is coming on the market which for the first time since r22 is a pure refrigerent and not a blend despite it's having a slightly flammable classification. Question is will it work to convert over a 410 a system or are we going to have to resort to buying Walmart duster cans or endust duster cans to charge up a 410 a system. Which is meant for electronics. Point is this country needs to stop with 50 different types of refrigerent that can be used the automotive industry did not do that after the switch from r 12 to r134 a it should have never been done with residential or Comercial hvac either. And that is also part of the problem along with all these American companies sticking to old methods and designs and then trying to dump an inverter type system on it and then throw proprietary comunicating systems in the mix. You don't need that for efficiency. Or switch to 2 split systems and rip out the ductwork on a 2 zone system like I saw one hvac youtuber do. And fine replace the old package unit 5 ton. From like 1984. But don't rip out all the ductwork And make 2 ducting systems And install 2 gree flex 3 ton units. When all they needed to do was install and hookup a gree flex 5 ton split system and leave the ductwork in place with the dampers for having 2 zones. Meaning a thermostat for the upstairs in addition to the downstairs and the damper or whatever it is called The inverter technology alone is going to reduce their electric bill. And do a better job cooling the upstairs fine if you need to redo all the ductwork but don't make it more complicated then it needs to be. Especially with heat pumps. It's called concerning the ductwork if ain't broke don't fix it. Just so you can Reem extra money from Someone by selling them 2 3 gree flex units . Plus the cost of redoing all the ductwork and not doing how I like it. When all you needed to do was just sell them one 5 ton gree flex which is 1 thousand more VS the 3 ton. It's a little over 4 grand. And that's another problem that contributes to all these system issues.
bosch units are made by Midea, which is a chinese company. i dont know if midea reached out to bosch to use their name (kickbacks), or vice versa. that's why i would only go for the M18M models, with mitsubishi compressors and not midea's. Midea and Cree are both chinese companies, along with many others, they're 2 of the top manuf for ductless systems/side discharge branded under Carrier or toshiba.
I would disconnect the utility companies monitoring device. I had a similar device cause a short circuit in the low voltage circuit and blow my transformer. You might want to add a low voltage fuse on the unit. I would bet this is the cause of the problem you're experiencing.
If you've ever built a PC, you learn that more paste between the CPU and heat sink isn't better. You need just enough paste to coat the surface. Too much paste actually doesn't allow the efficient transfer of heat to the heat sink. This looks like way too much paste was applied which is why the second board probably failed. Less is more when it comes to thermal paste. That said, Bosch shouldn't rely on proper field installation and should spend a little more $$$ to make sure the boards have proper heat sinks built in IMO.
Wrong explanation. By doing that, you'll break the microchip long foots from the back. There's an O tipe opening that you have to break that little parts to have access to the screws, and only after unscrewing that you can easily and without potential risks remove that board. This is a manufacturing design engineer fault. Don't shake that board as you see in the video.
So each year year my company installs an average of around 100 systems between new construction and replacements. We deal American standard, Comfort Maker, Haier, Mitsubishi, and Bosch. American standard and Comfort Maker are American companies, with split manufacturing in the USA and Mexico. Mitsubishi is a Japanese company with Japanese manufacturing, but they have partnered with Trane/American standard. Haier and Bosch are both German companies that have partnered with China on manufacturing, Haier is also a G.E. partner. So for every failure/callback on Mitsubishi, Haier, or Bosch we have around 10 on American standard and Comfort Maker, Comfort maker by the way is mostly of Carrier designs and technology and ICP the parent company is the largest in the world. So believe what you want, but as a 36 year veteran of HVAC, I see it vice versa. America sold of and out sourced it's manufacturing, and while we focus on Diversity, Inclusion, and Equality, the Asians focus on well not doing what we did.
Just took the latest Bosch training class a couple weeks ago. Trainer was showing us a new spray coating that you can put on any board or electronics to protect from moisture. Stuff is so good he was touching the line voltage inputs and the voltage wouldn't shock through the coating. He said you can coat the evap coil too and extend the life from rust and corrosion.
Sounds like good stuff.
They need to make an internal surge suppression and water tight enclosure for those boards. No way those things will outlast nature and the elements
My first bosch installed for my cousin was the M15 back in 2022, has been working flawlessly (knock on wood). I didn't even have a surge protector on it, this was before it was a known problem. I also have the M18M recently installed in my rental property, but with a surge protector.
There is a circle that with a picture of a screw by the capacitor. If you take a small flat head screw driver and pop out that round board piece. You take one of the board screws and tighten it in that spot and it will separate the board from the heat sync.
I actually figured that out after doing a few of these. Lol. Never bothered to read the directions 🤦
I have a whole house surge protector installed at the main panel, surge protector at the air handler and surge and voltage monitor in each condenser unit. I haven't had an issue in two years. Fingers crossed. One tip is to pig-tail the surge protector because that disconnect terminals are not rated to take two wires.
Great job Jeff very informative thanks for the viedo
Voltage over 270vac will fry an inverter board. We install ICM493 surge/voltage protection control on all our installs.
Good call.
A door panel popper will pry that board off easily. Not the nut driver style but there's a style with a spring on it that has a handle similar to shears and it pulls and pushes at the same time to pop door panels easily to not break Christmas tree clips. Would be perfect for this. 👍🏼
nice work Jeff,ask the customer to light a candle.
Sometimes it's junky components in most cases but those boards are divided up into different parts and depending upon which area of the board fails usually can give you a indication of what is going on. It is absurd that every time a board goes bad that the manufacturer wants to condemn it based upon a power surge . A power surge usually voids warranty .
It could be brown out/under voltage as well. That’s why I’m starting to switch to ICM493 power monitor
Good call
I may be mistaken but you are not supposed to double lug the load-voltage and surge protector wires, you should use wire nuts to tie in load side from disconnect to surge protector. Double luging is not allowed per NEC codes.
It’s the way they show it on the directions.
I had a new 3 ton Bosch 20 SEER installed less than a month ago. We lost power 2 days ago around 10:30 PM. I noticed the next morning the evaporator fan was not running and the suction line on the condensing unit outside was frosted over. The condensing fan operating very slow. Called my guy and he found the 3 amp fuse on the evap board blown along with the board burned in that area. During the installation he had installed a RSH-VRM60A surge protector. I was able to toggle through the digital readout and see the voltage had spiked to 275 vac at one point. This protection is ONLY on the out side condensing unit and not on the evap unit under house. My question is should the evap unit have this same type of protection?
It’s always a good to have surge protection on all this expensive equipment.
I dunno expensive sensitive electronics sitting inside of a heat generating metal box in various moisture conditions always makes me nervous 😒
Years back in my old crib I bought this expensive (for me at the time) Phillips home theater system I smoked two of them under warranty before getting a third replacement. Got curious so I used a kilowatt plug in meter to see what it was drawing compared to spec it was an undercurrent condition. The surge protector offers no protection for that. I also smoked a few car amps that way too...🤔
mikey pipes love bosch. the problem is the board is very expensive if one thing goes wrong on it you are screwed
Right you are friend! 🤙
What's the warranty on the board...thanks
@@VooDooV610 years
Guys …. If you watched the Bosch Utube service videos … they would show you that the release screw would be the easiest way to release the bad board from the aluminum heat exchanger…
My next question would be WHY did the good board become a BAD board.. did you ohm out the compressor, the fan motor, the PT???
Also I would have order the EAssembly part that is the corner metal part … w/ board already installed ….. Bosch does NOT have any recommendations on surge protection…. Thanks Fred C
Is there a generator running in the back ground?? If so that is the problem
Not that I know of.
Next time ask them to order the Ebox much easier
Ive put around 30 of these in and had one board failure .....ive been doing them for 3 months......it terrifies me
Looks as if what ever this customer might have saved on their electric bill was just used to make this repair. Also how many days were they down without AC as you got the parts for repairs? It'll always be best to follow the Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) principle and buy the most basic unit possible.
Both repairs have been covered under warranty. They were down for a week.
The new inverter driven, fancy stuff works very well, and often very reliably... If designed correctly.
This particular unit likely has some sort of a design fault, judging by the fact that the replacement board had a different brand, and size of capacitors attached to the component that failed.
Think about how long your VCR, or stereo from the 80's has been working. There is really no reason why these things can't last decades, but on occasion, manufacturers make mistakes.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures definitely parts warranty, but did they have to pay for labor?
Have you had to replace any one board on a unit more than once? Hopefully Bosch has the kinks ironed out.
Yea this is the second one for this unit
Cause = effect. Wha t caused it? How many other units which have the same set up are melting boards?
This is the first one that actually burnt a hole. The other two were recommended by Bosch tech support to be replaced due to phantom errors.
Bosch never actually gave me a solid reason. Everything checked out and voltage is good coming in.
Hi there I just had my Bosch bova 15 installed a couple of days ago I can’t keep it from constantly running when set at 70 but it cycles correctly at 72 degrees my old Payne unit used to be set at 70 all the time and go through its cycles am I missing something?
It is not uncommon for a Bosch Heat Pump to have long run times at low speeds. I’d say if you’re still concerned after a week to 10 days of installation, call the installation company back and let them know your concerns.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures 8-10 hours seems uncommon to me, do you have any advice for me so I can address it with the installer
@@adekunleogunwumiju4905 A couple things I would check for is to make sure the home is well insulated. Make sure the windows and doors make good seals. A well insulated house can make a huge difference in HVAC performance. Also make sure the thermostat location makes sense for the way the house and HVAC system is laid out. It could be an issue with the system but I would have those things checked.
The sealer is probably not required because of all the screws. Seems another type insulator would be more feasonable.
It acts as an insulator to keep the heat from the heat sink away from the board.
Looks like the 15 seer series , an entry level into the inverter ids series. 20 seer or go home.
The Bosch makes IDS 15, 18, and 20 series, those numbers do not equate to automatic seer ratings, those are up to ratings. There are many combinations and Both HSPF and SEER vary with them, my company have about 40 Bosch systems under our belt starting in 2019, majority have been the IDS 18, a few IDS 20, and several IDS 15.
Also have not had a single failure with any of them.
All are a mix of new construction and replacements.
If you look at ARI ratings, there is a huge difference like all manufactures between HP with air handler and Duel fuel SEER performance, we do more duel fuel and the IDS18 and 15 make more sense.
Even in a strait HP/AH situation the 20 only hits that SEER in a certain situations.
But then in replacements, we evaluate and test the most critical component and base equipment of of that. Which is the duct system. If I cannot correct a poorly designed and sized duct system, my customer gains nothing by purchasing higher SEER.
This isn't a concern in new construction for us, as all systems are Designed using manual J, D, and S criteria.
Bottom line is SEER and HSPF vary hugely by capacity and unit series, but neither number are as important as having a duct system that lets them achieve that number.
In my 36 years I cannot count the time I dealt with unhappy customers that bought High efficiency that didn't meet claims, when lower efficiency with a proper duct system would have.
I forget if it was proctor engineering or the Energy conservatory, or another that did a great est on that theory in the 90's, but results were that a properly sized, designed and installed lower rated system, beat out the highest efficiency rated units when not properly sized, designed and installed.
Numbers matter, but some matter more than others, and SEER isn't the one that matters most.
What was the lead time for it? I’ve heard the issue with Bosch is parts availability
These boards aren’t hard to get. 3 days.
That’s good! I’ve heard people complain it was a month or more for the condenser fan motor
@@danottaway3219 max 1 to 2 days depending on where you are at this point, I think the chip shortage/covid caused the delays people mentioned
There is a cut out on that board you remove and then put the screw in and tighten, then the board just pops off!
Yea I figured that out after doing a coupe. Lol thanks 🤙
Sorry to content again Jeff but like a reply I just sent part of the problem is also hvac guys doing dumb things like redoing ductwork when it does not need to be completely redone just so they can milk the custumer out of an extra 4 or 5 grand.
Like replacing a whole 2 zone system with a damper and an upstairs and downstairs thermostat. that came up from the basement that was fine and then splitting the ductwork off and installing seperate ductwork in the attic when that did not need to be done especially an open attic space.
with a bunch of flex duct so you can sell the custumer 2 3 ton gree flex units.
When the old package unit from 1984 was a 5ton and that was the correct size.
And just selling the custumer one 5 ton gree flex would have been the correct thing to do.
And the old ductwork was sealed properly and still working quite well.
I am commenting because when I saw that you tube video from an hvac company I was ready to yell what the hell are you doing let's say it made me really angry now if the custumer said I want you to do that. It's another story and with me I would tell you that upfront.
But don't take advantage of people like that.
Thx. What series is this? I ask because Mikey Pipes is pushing the IDS 2.0.
This is the 2.0.
The way Mikey talks that them boards are in the thousands to replace
What companies have learned (and this applies to about everything) is that the more complex they make things the more likely consumers will just upgrade with new. It works to their benefit not to produce simplicity. Government assists by requiring the efficiency of the complex equipment.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Yes, but only the 15s. Haven't had a single issue on the 18 and 20s.
Bosch is a German based brand and is generally super high quality I think the issue is bosch was starting to use parts from China and I don't mean Taiwan.
Or the Phillipines and while I am glad bosch is doing inverter systems my problem is the us keeps pushing the conventional top mount condenser.
When most countries use side discharge condensers and have for years.
Also most countries including European countries have been using r 32 refrigerent.
And finnaly like I have said r 410 a should have never been used as the replacement in manufacturing for r 22 units but 407 c should have been the refrigerent considering it is not bieng phased out like 410a.
And has like pressures for R 22.
Meaning you could have kept manufacturing hvac systems the same way with the difference bieng the compressor comes filled with poe instead of mineral oil.
But no in the US we have to make it more complicated and as a result the quality suffers even down to the boards.
407c is being phased down just like 410a, but I agree that as these systems get more complicated failure becomes more likely.
@@Ali.A72 407 c I read was not bieng phased out yet.
But 410 a is.
Also 407 c contains r 134 a as part of the blend but personally I am liking that r32 is coming on the market which for the first time since r22 is a pure refrigerent and not a blend despite it's having a slightly flammable classification.
Question is will it work to convert over a 410 a system or are we going to have to resort to buying Walmart duster cans or endust duster cans to charge up a 410 a system.
Which is meant for electronics. Point is this country needs to stop with 50 different types of refrigerent that can be used the automotive industry did not do that after the switch from r 12 to r134 a it should have never been done with residential or Comercial hvac either. And that is also part of the problem along with all these American companies sticking to old methods and designs and then trying to dump an inverter type system on it and then throw proprietary comunicating systems in the mix.
You don't need that for efficiency.
Or switch to 2 split systems and rip out the ductwork on a 2 zone system like I saw one hvac youtuber do.
And fine replace the old package unit 5 ton. From like 1984.
But don't rip out all the ductwork
And make 2 ducting systems
And install 2 gree flex 3 ton units.
When all they needed to do was install and hookup a gree flex 5 ton split system and leave the ductwork in place with the dampers for having 2 zones. Meaning a thermostat for the upstairs in addition to the downstairs and the damper or whatever it is called
The inverter technology alone is going to reduce their electric bill.
And do a better job cooling the upstairs fine if you need to redo all the ductwork but don't make it more complicated then it needs to be.
Especially with heat pumps.
It's called concerning the ductwork if ain't broke don't fix it.
Just so you can Reem extra money from Someone by selling them 2 3 gree flex units .
Plus the cost of redoing all the ductwork and not doing how I like it.
When all you needed to do was just sell them one 5 ton gree flex which is 1 thousand more VS the 3 ton.
It's a little over 4 grand.
And that's another problem that contributes to all these system issues.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 💯
bosch units are made by Midea, which is a chinese company. i dont know if midea reached out to bosch to use their name (kickbacks), or vice versa. that's why i would only go for the M18M models, with mitsubishi compressors and not midea's. Midea and Cree are both chinese companies, along with many others, they're 2 of the top manuf for ductless systems/side discharge branded under Carrier or toshiba.
I would disconnect the utility companies monitoring device. I had a similar device cause a short circuit in the low voltage circuit and blow my transformer. You might want to add a low voltage fuse on the unit. I would bet this is the cause of the problem you're experiencing.
What code did you ? I got and E5
I don’t remember what the original code was when I replaced it the first time, but this time it didn’t throw a code. It just wouldn’t come on.
I have one i think they have Harbor freight for quality control 😢
🤣 you might be right!
So they ever find out why the board? I’m just wondering because I heard them Bosch ‘s boards are in the thousands
This one is around $900 for the 15Seer. But no, When I was on the phone with Tech Support they never gave me an answer. Just sent me a board.
Get in contact with Louis Rossmann and see what he thinks about it.
I will take a basic single stage unit over this complicated sensitive electronic controls any day
it is crazy to throw away that entire board when it is probably one little component.
too bad almost no one repairs electronic boards any more
Maybe they repair them at the factory. All the Bosch boards I’ve done have been warranty.
Looks like an expensive board...how much did it cost?
The board is $900. But everyone I’ve done has been covered under warranty
If you've ever built a PC, you learn that more paste between the CPU and heat sink isn't better. You need just enough paste to coat the surface. Too much paste actually doesn't allow the efficient transfer of heat to the heat sink. This looks like way too much paste was applied which is why the second board probably failed. Less is more when it comes to thermal paste.
That said, Bosch shouldn't rely on proper field installation and should spend a little more $$$ to make sure the boards have proper heat sinks built in IMO.
Yea it’s 100% a Bosch thing. It’s a known problem that they are just warranting with little to no troubleshooting
And these boards are $2000!!
Yup
Mumber?
BOVA-24HDN1-M15M
Thanks but I was referring to the typo on a $900 board's manual. Same guy might be with the QC dept.@@JeffsHVACAdventures
Wrong explanation. By doing that, you'll break the microchip long foots from the back. There's an O tipe opening that you have to break that little parts to have access to the screws, and only after unscrewing that you can easily and without potential risks remove that board. This is a manufacturing design engineer fault. Don't shake that board as you see in the video.
Thanks
What happened was you sold your customer garbage that was made in China.
Thanks for watching!
So each year year my company installs an average of around 100 systems between new construction and replacements. We deal American standard, Comfort Maker, Haier, Mitsubishi, and Bosch.
American standard and Comfort Maker are American companies, with split manufacturing in the USA and Mexico. Mitsubishi is a Japanese company with Japanese manufacturing, but they have partnered with Trane/American standard. Haier and Bosch are both German companies that have partnered with China on manufacturing, Haier is also a G.E. partner.
So for every failure/callback on Mitsubishi, Haier, or Bosch we have around 10 on American standard and Comfort Maker, Comfort maker by the way is mostly of Carrier designs and technology and ICP the parent company is the largest in the world.
So believe what you want, but as a 36 year veteran of HVAC, I see it vice versa.
America sold of and out sourced it's manufacturing, and while we focus on Diversity, Inclusion, and Equality, the Asians focus on well not doing what we did.
You have to ground the unit
WARNING SHOCK ; DISCHARGE BOARD FIRST.