Don’t spin the pushrod. Use the up/down movement. On hydraulic lifters turn an additional 1/2 turn from zero lash. On solids use your feeler gauge for the proper specs for your cam.
Your way works fine, but so does this way. By spinning until it resists, you're tightening more and getting your preload, no need for that additional half turn. It ends up the same, try it, you'll see.
@@robertclymer6948 I suppose ideally we could measure the preload (somehow), which is the distance the push rod pushes the lifter's hydraulic plunger(?) down below its retaining clip. There is a spec. I can't recall, maybe .030? Best to verify.
I back them all off and start from scratch and bring each rocker to 0 lash by moving the push rod up and down till there's no movement, rotate the engine 90 degrees and adjust the lose rockers and repeat for two full rotations, then set my lash. I only use solid lifters, tired of messing with slush valve trains.
There is a very slight amount of preload shown when the final tightening takes place! That is all you need. The top of the plunger is sitting on a column of non compressible oil. Going deeper into the plunger just gives more room for lifter pump up and possible cause problems down the road!
Please understand that we DO NOT adjust valves. Once a valve has been installed, spring fit, retainer in place and keepers in place........, there is no further adjustment that can be made to the valve itself. With a hydraulic system, we are ultimately setting the depth of the cam follower's hydraulic And I agree..... do not spin the push rod in hopes of finding ZERO lash. Use the Up/Down movement. I suggest making these adjustments prior to the intake manifold being installed AND prior to priming the oiling system (leave the cam followers dry). Use the tried and proven 8 stop static procedure. Begin with #1 cylinder @ TDC C/S. Adjust both intake and exhaust rocker arm nuts as per ZERO lash, and then give them an additional rotation as to set the plunger depth. Next, roll the crankshaft 90 degrees, and adjust the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat until # 1 comes back around. Done!
“we” adjust valve lash , or in mechanic terms “ adjusting valves” You can stroke your rods up and down with your oily fingers but it takes longer. I am plainly showing a quicker way that works.
@@bigggarage2439 Yes, we being to adjust in order to first find ZERO lash. After that, we are NOT adjusting valves. Once a valve has been installed, there is NO further adjustment that can possibly be made to a valve! That is and has been a misnomer for years.
Observation: at approximately 2:00 into the video, Big G has just established ZERO lash, as further explained at 2:23! Yet he does not show the additional nut rotation that would depress (or set) the hydraulic plunger depth. Then at 2:45, he locks the nut with the set screw. At 4:34, he refers to a "jam nut", of which is actually the "set screw". At 4:44 he appears to be finished with that exhaust rocker arm adjustment. Moving forward..... at 5:16 he says; "that's one adjusted cylinder!" Unless I missed something, the plunger depth has not been set! In other words, he is still @ ZERO lash on those two rocker arms and has not yet set the plunger depth! By the way: 1..... do not spin the push rod in order to feel when ZERO lash has been achieved.......... move the push rod up/down and also watch the plunger. 2..... if you want to ensure that the set screw locks well, place a very small circular piece of brass shim-stock down against the top of the rocker arm stud. The set screw will compress and seat against the brass, ensuring a good positive lock. Or, use a LocTite product. 3.... use caution when viewing UA-cam Videos. Some are well done and are very informative, and some (although well intended) are not.
at 3.22 i snug it up. That little bit puts it beyond zero lash. I have been doing this for 36 years and in that short amount of time I learned that everyone’s recommendation for 1/2 turn is always too much. I am not showing “by the book” adjustments. I am showing what actually works! I never pulled a valve cover on this engine after this setting and drove the car to RMRW 2100 miles and have been racing it all summer!
@@bigggarage2439 I began doing this in the mid 60s. All due respect, I believe that you may not be fully understanding the amount of available plunger travel. As I mentioned...... stud thread pitch Xs rocker arm ratio Xs nut rotation = plunger depth.
Don’t spin the pushrod. Use the up/down movement. On hydraulic lifters turn an additional 1/2 turn from zero lash. On solids use your feeler gauge for the proper specs for your cam.
Your way works fine, but so does this way. By spinning until it resists, you're tightening more and getting your preload, no need for that additional half turn. It ends up the same, try it, you'll see.
@@100amps Was wondering about the preload. So not even a 1/4 turn is needed. I see a lot go 3/4 turn. I always thought that was too much. Thanks
@@robertclymer6948 I suppose ideally we could measure the preload (somehow), which is the distance the push rod pushes the lifter's hydraulic plunger(?) down below its retaining clip. There is a spec. I can't recall, maybe .030? Best to verify.
I back them all off and start from scratch and bring each rocker to 0 lash by moving the push rod up and down till there's no movement, rotate the engine 90 degrees and adjust the lose rockers and repeat for two full rotations, then set my lash. I only use solid lifters, tired of messing with slush valve trains.
It takes some math but I set lash when the lifter is on the opposite side of the cam at full lift. 180 degrees from max lift.
Why would you use different length rocker studs?
Interesting
Just wondering why you did not comment on preload if or if not you did it.
no pre-load?
There is a very slight amount of preload shown when the final tightening takes place! That is all you need. The top of the plunger is sitting on a column of non compressible oil. Going deeper into the plunger just gives more room for lifter pump up and possible cause problems down the road!
Please understand that we DO NOT adjust valves. Once a valve has been installed, spring fit, retainer in place and keepers in place........, there is no further adjustment that can be made to the valve itself.
With a hydraulic system, we are ultimately setting the depth of the cam follower's hydraulic
And I agree..... do not spin the push rod in hopes of finding ZERO lash.
Use the Up/Down movement.
I suggest making these adjustments prior to the intake manifold being installed AND prior to priming the oiling system (leave the cam followers dry).
Use the tried and proven 8 stop static procedure.
Begin with #1 cylinder @ TDC C/S.
Adjust both intake and exhaust rocker arm nuts as per ZERO lash, and then give them an additional rotation as to set the plunger depth.
Next, roll the crankshaft 90 degrees, and adjust the next cylinder in the firing order.
Repeat until # 1 comes back around.
Done!
“we” adjust valve lash , or in mechanic terms “ adjusting valves” You can stroke your rods up and down with your oily fingers but it takes longer. I am plainly showing a quicker way that works.
@@bigggarage2439 Yes, we being to adjust in order to first find ZERO lash. After that, we are NOT adjusting valves. Once a valve has been installed, there is NO further adjustment that can possibly be made to a valve! That is and has been a misnomer for years.
Observation: at approximately 2:00 into the video, Big G has just established ZERO lash, as further explained at 2:23! Yet he does not show the additional nut rotation that would depress (or set) the hydraulic plunger depth.
Then at 2:45, he locks the nut with the set screw.
At 4:34, he refers to a "jam nut", of which is actually the "set screw".
At 4:44 he appears to be finished with that exhaust rocker arm adjustment.
Moving forward..... at 5:16 he says; "that's one adjusted cylinder!" Unless I missed something, the plunger depth has not been set! In other words, he is still @ ZERO lash on those two rocker arms and has not yet set the plunger depth!
By the way:
1..... do not spin the push rod in order to feel when ZERO lash has been achieved.......... move the push rod up/down and also watch the plunger.
2..... if you want to ensure that the set screw locks well, place a very small circular piece of brass shim-stock down against the top of the rocker arm stud. The set screw will compress and seat against the brass, ensuring a good positive lock. Or, use a LocTite product.
3.... use caution when viewing UA-cam Videos. Some are well done and are very informative, and some (although well intended) are not.
at 3.22 i snug it up. That little bit puts it beyond zero lash. I have been doing this for 36 years and in that short amount of time I learned that everyone’s recommendation for 1/2 turn is always too much. I am not showing “by the book” adjustments. I am showing what actually works! I never pulled a valve cover on this engine after this setting and drove the car to RMRW 2100 miles and have been racing it all summer!
@@bigggarage2439 I began doing this in the mid 60s. All due respect, I believe that you may not be fully understanding the amount of available plunger travel.
As I mentioned...... stud thread pitch Xs rocker arm ratio Xs nut rotation = plunger depth.
KASDI