I’m changing out my stock rocker arms for a set of scorpion rollers this month and this video just made my night! Thanks for the explanation and video! You may of just saved my bacon LOL
Finally !! This is the correct way and best way to adjust your valves correctly. It's not necessary to take each rocker off as you can just watch them going up and down but I know you did that to show more detail. Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show the correct and best way.
@Yosemite Sam thanks! You are right regarding removal of the rockers not necessary… looking back I should have mentioned why I did that just for this example - to get a better look at the pushrod movement. I was limited on space lol. I’m all about the “more than one way to (insert pun here)”, but certain tasks are not like that, and adjusting valves is one of them. I just saw way too many people adjusting on compression that I had to clear the air lol.
I have a new build 1st time ever building a motor and i think valves out of adjustment is possibly my issue, was running good but but poorly now, like missing and when you take off on the gas its like its down 2 cylinders so i changed the plugs and found 2 with unburned fuel like oil residue but smelled of gas, the others looked fine so im hoping its something fixed by re-adjusting the rockers, its a fully built 331 stroker with twisted wedge 170 heads
Im going thriugh the same thing 460 Ford..My first build all the way out from the shortblock.Wont stay running, starter dies quick.Readjudted,started but gutless.
Great video. May I ask your opinion on Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters (hydraulic flat-tappet) calling for 0 to 1/8th turn? My engine clatters like a mofo! They warn against going tighter but i don't know what else it could be.
So glad I saw this video, I previously found a method to adjust rockers called rock and adjust. I just did this procedure yesterday and on 2 or 3 valves as I started to turn down on my adjuster, there was resistance right away! The rest of the adjustments went flawlessly, but after seeing your video, I'm thinking I should change to this method? Your comments or help would be greatly appreciated!
I’ve never heard of rock and adjust, but the method in the video is the only proper way to ensure the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe for proper adjustment. Good luck 👍
@@user-rv8ok5ds7f No particular cylinder order of operation is needed. You can choose to go in any cylinder order you want. The key thing is once you are on a cylinder, follow the above procedures and you’ll be golden 🥇
Thanks! I’m glad you asked, I totally forgot to mention those in the video! They are Moroso part number 93060. They are a must have as far as I’m concerned for those who run AFR heads. I use these on every engine. Steel core, bonded rubber, but have a wider sealing surface.
@@GeorgiaStangMan yeah the felpro rubber with metal core just don't seem to hold up for me, they always seem to peel and split the rubber around the corners
All I need help. So I had a friend build my 347 stroker. It has a massive cam in it . When it starts it sounds ok., but when it comes down to idle it starts to backfire like a valve is open. Can any one help out. I will try this valve adjustment. Fingers crossed. 🤞
Could you possiblity explain the best you can the feeling of the push rod when your spinning it with your fingers, what your are feeling. I keep screwing it up and twice I didnt do it tight enough, this time to tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video by the way
The pushrod just needs to have a little friction as you tighten the nut by hand. Once there is some drag on the pushrod as you spin it, you know there is no play at either end of the pushrod where it meets the rocker cup or the lifter cup. At that point stop and make your adjustment at the adjuster nut and lock it down as shown. Good luck 👍
@@GeorgiaStangMan Ok, finally I got it right!! Dude thank you so much. I fired it up an hour ago and thanks to your videos I got my 68 302 mustang running again. And it never sounded this good before. I owe you such a big thanks for doing what you do! Now I have to watch every video you made just in case.
will this work on a stock cam with just installing new lifters and push rods and new rocker arms car has 77k on it and my cam is stock so cam is original lifters are rollers i have them socking in oil ford 302 efi in a merc grand mark 1989 gs
To my fellow gearheads…… Please understand that we do not adjust valves. Once a valve has been installed, spring installed, retainer installed and keepers installed..….. there is no further adjustment that could possibly be made. What we are doing, is adjusting the depth of the push rod, which in turn positions the hydraulic plunger within the cam follower body. At 2:34 into the video, I must disagree with him. The entire purpose of a hydraulic cam and hydraulic cam followers, is to allow for compensation. That is why the plunger travel is in the neighborhood of .100" to .140ish". In general, the pre-load is in the range of 50% of that..... some call for less. So, if your plunger travel is .100" to .140", and if the pre-load is set correctly, the plunger will be down into the cam follower body by approximately .050" to .070". In my opinioon, this is more than enough to to allow the use of making the adjustment at TDC C/S. It also allows for the use of the "8 stop static procedure" (V-8 engines). I.E., begin with #1 @ TDC C/s, adjust! Go to the next cylinder in the firing order, adjust! Go to the next one in the firing order, adjust, and so on.
This was done without oil in lifters, but wouldn’t matter if the lifters did. The plungers inside the lifters cannot overcome the force of the adjusting nut pushing down on them via the pushrod. Also, hydraulic lifters have a spring under the plungers, so even if they are dry, you’ll still get resistance on the pushrod when creeping up on finding the zero lash point.
I wish everybody would get to the f****** point instead of listening to their whole life story who gives a s*** just tell us how to freaking fix the problem
I’m changing out my stock rocker arms for a set of scorpion rollers this month and this video just made my night! Thanks for the explanation and video! You may of just saved my bacon LOL
Awesome! Glad I could help out, that’s what this channel is all about!
Finally !! This is the correct way and best way to adjust your valves correctly. It's not necessary to take each rocker off as you can just watch them going up and down but I know you did that to show more detail. Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show the correct and best way.
@Yosemite Sam thanks! You are right regarding removal of the rockers not necessary… looking back I should have mentioned why I did that just for this example - to get a better look at the pushrod movement. I was limited on space lol. I’m all about the “more than one way to (insert pun here)”, but certain tasks are not like that, and adjusting valves is one of them. I just saw way too many people adjusting on compression that I had to clear the air lol.
Thank You! Finally a step by step video that i can understand.
Glad it could be of help!
Excellent bro just what I wanted to know
Thank you sooooo much for making this video
Anytime👍
Great information ! Thanks 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Anytime!
Recently bought a foxbody mustang doing the engine right now
BAD A$$$$$ !!!! Great vid, thanks for the schooling!!!
Anytime! 🤘
I have a new build 1st time ever building a motor and i think valves out of adjustment is possibly my issue, was running good but but poorly now, like missing and when you take off on the gas its like its down 2 cylinders so i changed the plugs and found 2 with unburned fuel like oil residue but smelled of gas, the others looked fine so im hoping its something fixed by re-adjusting the rockers, its a fully built 331 stroker with twisted wedge 170 heads
Im going thriugh the same thing 460 Ford..My first build all the way out from the shortblock.Wont stay running, starter dies quick.Readjudted,started but gutless.
Great video. May I ask your opinion on Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters (hydraulic flat-tappet) calling for 0 to 1/8th turn? My engine clatters like a mofo! They warn against going tighter but i don't know what else it could be.
Seems like those lifters are meant to run at high rpm, and therefore need the looser tolerances, which can definitely lead to noisy valve train
@@GeorgiaStangMan Thanks for the reply. They’re so loud I don’t dare run the engine. Going over it for the 4th time I guess.
Does it matter if your lifters are dry or not when you set your valves .
So glad I saw this video, I previously found a method to adjust rockers called rock and adjust. I just did this procedure yesterday and on 2 or 3 valves as I started to turn down on my adjuster, there was resistance right away! The rest of the adjustments went flawlessly, but after seeing your video, I'm thinking I should change to this method? Your comments or help would be greatly appreciated!
I’ve never heard of rock and adjust, but the method in the video is the only proper way to ensure the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe for proper adjustment. Good luck 👍
@GeorgiaStangMan When using your method, can you just go from cylinder to cylinder? Or is there a particular order you should go in?
@@user-rv8ok5ds7f No particular cylinder order of operation is needed. You can choose to go in any cylinder order you want. The key thing is once you are on a cylinder, follow the above procedures and you’ll be golden 🥇
@@GeorgiaStangMan Greatly appreciated!!!
Nice job! What valve cover gaskets are those?
Thanks! I’m glad you asked, I totally forgot to mention those in the video! They are Moroso part number 93060. They are a must have as far as I’m concerned for those who run AFR heads. I use these on every engine. Steel core, bonded rubber, but have a wider sealing surface.
@@GeorgiaStangMan yeah the felpro rubber with metal core just don't seem to hold up for me, they always seem to peel and split the rubber around the corners
All I need help. So I had a friend build my 347 stroker. It has a massive cam in it . When it starts it sounds ok., but when it comes down to idle it starts to backfire like a valve is open. Can any one help out. I will try this valve adjustment. Fingers crossed. 🤞
Do you recommend rechecking lash on a hot engine after break-in?
Not necessary on hydraulic roller setups. Good luck 👍
Is this for roller rockers only?
Could you possiblity explain the best you can the feeling of the push rod when your spinning it with your fingers, what your are feeling. I keep screwing it up and twice I didnt do it tight enough, this time to tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video by the way
The pushrod just needs to have a little friction as you tighten the nut by hand. Once there is some drag on the pushrod as you spin it, you know there is no play at either end of the pushrod where it meets the rocker cup or the lifter cup. At that point stop and make your adjustment at the adjuster nut and lock it down as shown. Good luck 👍
@@GeorgiaStangMan Ok, finally I got it right!! Dude thank you so much. I fired it up an hour ago and thanks to your videos I got my 68 302 mustang running again. And it never sounded this good before. I owe you such a big thanks for doing what you do! Now I have to watch every video you made just in case.
@@MustangStrong awesome! Glad it worked out! 👍
will this work on a stock cam with just installing new lifters and push rods and new rocker arms car has 77k on it and my cam is stock so cam is original lifters are rollers i have them socking in oil ford 302 efi in a merc grand mark 1989 gs
Yes, use this on a stock cam as well. Good luck 👍
To my fellow gearheads…… Please understand that we do not adjust valves. Once a valve has been installed, spring installed, retainer installed and keepers installed..….. there is no further adjustment that could possibly be made.
What we are doing, is adjusting the depth of the push rod, which in turn positions the hydraulic plunger within the cam follower body.
At 2:34 into the video, I must disagree with him. The entire purpose of a hydraulic cam and hydraulic cam followers, is to allow for compensation.
That is why the plunger travel is in the neighborhood of .100" to .140ish".
In general, the pre-load is in the range of 50% of that..... some call for less.
So, if your plunger travel is .100" to .140", and if the pre-load is set correctly, the plunger will be down into the cam follower body by approximately .050" to .070".
In my opinioon, this is more than enough to to allow the use of making the adjustment at TDC C/S.
It also allows for the use of the "8 stop static procedure" (V-8 engines).
I.E., begin with #1 @ TDC C/s, adjust!
Go to the next cylinder in the firing order, adjust!
Go to the next one in the firing order, adjust, and so on.
Do the lifters have to be pumped up prior to doing this?
They don’t. You’ll be fine either way. The plungers are spring loaded like stock, so even if they’re dry, you’ll feel the resistance at zero lash 👍
is this done with the lifters oil primed or not?
This was done without oil in lifters, but wouldn’t matter if the lifters did. The plungers inside the lifters cannot overcome the force of the adjusting nut pushing down on them via the pushrod. Also, hydraulic lifters have a spring under the plungers, so even if they are dry, you’ll still get resistance on the pushrod when creeping up on finding the zero lash point.
@GeorgiaStangMan thanks for the reply !
@@justinriley8651 Anytime! Good luck!
Too complicated. Much easier methods out there
I wish everybody would get to the f****** point instead of listening to their whole life story who gives a s*** just tell us how to freaking fix the problem