How To Check Valve Lash With Steve Morris (Minimal Tools)
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
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Sick Seconds engine builder Steve Morris shows how he checks the valve lash on the 4000 horsepower SMX.
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I said on Steve Morris' channel before, i could listen to Mr. SMX talking about engineering and technical stuff for hours.
Just a big thanks to Steve for making these videos. No where else do you get this kind of info!!!!
Not unless you ask people at the track or work with people on a team, I'm really glad more videos like this are out there now. Especially ones from Tom and Steve
Its amazing with time how close someone that knows what they are doing can get by feel.
Yep, decades ago I drove a VW baja bug for years and got to the point I didn't even need feeler gauges to set the lash.
LOVING this no b.s. channel.
Steve now you’re just showing off. Checking valve lash without feeler gauges. What a bad ass!
Steve, you would not make a good politician! YOU SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH ALL OF US ASKING NOTHING IN RETURN!
God blessed you sir.
Thank you from a little guy.
That is a man with confidence in the engine he built and all the years of experience that go with it.. basically he takes more tools to the track than he said.. those hands are his most important tool at the track!
I was taught 40 years ago by the “On the rock” method. Take the firing order & split it in half & stack it on top of each other. When companion cylinder is on “the rock “ exhaust closing & intake opening- valve overlap the companion cylinder is at TDC compression stroke. Taught at Cummins,Izusu,Mack engine schools and tech school. 2 complete revolutions & done. Always use a bumper button.
So cool to see Steve on YT.
Great video! Happy Easter to the TB Team!
Well explained, thanks.
Amazing how quickly you repaired all the fire damage! 😉
Cool I like your approach on the subject
Thank you, Steve, all the best to you.
Thanks for sharing
I am actually surprised my valvetrain checking is extremely similar to this method. Makes me happy. I would run the valves on a cold motor every 50ish runs on my old Reher 555 bracket motor right before the oil change. Granted the Harland Sharps did not look that damn sexy, but they did have about 1400 runs on them by the time the engine/car went away.
I learned young how to lash valves my first car had a slant 6 in it and anyone knows anything about the leaning tower of power they have solid lifters and with that you gotta lash the valves but I love watching new ways of doing it or easier ways
Awesome video
Steve that must be a small tight lash solid roller cam if you only run .005 lash.
I run comp cams xr292r street solid roller cam. Its their biggest street solid roller cam and they recommend cold lash at .010 intake and .012 Exhaust. I am all motor though. Fuel injected 438windsor 68 mustang.
My tuner said same thing as you, just check lash don't adjust. If they need adjustment i take car to Johnny lightning in Corona, California. John is really good. I only have lash checked/ adjusted once a year. My motor has the top of the line Isky bushed max lifters, Isky Tool room gold stripe dual valvesprings and Manley steel valves.
I will check valves exactly like you recommended, and if any are off i will take to Johnny lightning and have him adjust. Its just a street solid roller cam so ramps are designed for street driving.
My buddy says dont use remote starter button cause its not accurate to get on base circle, but if you use remote starter then i will too. My buddy prefers to turn motor by hand but i am gonna do it like you.
Lessons from the Master.
I always do mine cold because I'm always worried about it cooling down before I'm finished. Oh well.
@@bigboreracing356 Solid roller is the only way to go for maximum power. Nothing better.
We run blown alcohol 540’s in 7.0 pro with jesel roller rockers and do it basically the same way. We check them with a feeler gauge at the beginning of the weekend and will adjust them the .001-.003” just because that’s the way my step likes to do it. But after that we are just pulling valve covers to make sure nothing went wrong. If you have no lash, chances are you tuliped the valve. If you have too much lash, then you may have lost a cup on a rocker, collapsed a lifter, bent a push rod, cracked a rocker, lost a lash cap. It could be a number of things. But if you check them after every pass you will know when there is a problem and hopefully prevent it from doing more damage.
Good morning and happy Easter everyone
Happy Easter !
I like the cold lash idea but a .005 feeler gauge is a pain to work with. I also didn’t realize that the intake could be that close to being closed for the exhaust
Manton makes amazing stuff! I remember when people started using it, it was amazing to run the valves with them. Nothing really changes, it's just incredibly good stuff!
I believe you on the valve lash by feel. You won drag week. This works for bikes too.? TDC doing both. Go off base circle. Make sure In or Ex is slightly open.? Thanks.
Yup!!
I wish I had the feel that Mr.SM has!
Hey Steve can you do me a favor and explain it again how the ProCharged car doesn't bennift from the Collector header but rather Zoomies..?
What torque wrench is that.. looks siiiiick
That’s almost like the EOIC method. I use the EOIC method and just go down one cyl head then the other, I don’t go in the firing order. When I had solid lifters I always set them cold b/c there was no change when they were hot. Yes true story on my 70 Z28.
It's amazing how good of feel SM has, That why he disables comments so he saves his fel for engines?
What is negative about the 3 position method?
Does this method work with all engines or more specifically an Olds 455 with a roller cam/valve train?
This works on engines with solid roller lifter setups.
I’m kind of assuming the .010 cold lash is based around room temperature (65-75*). Is there a rule of thumb as to how much to add or subtract if there is big swings in ambient temp? Like if it’s 40* or if it’s 90*
It really depends on the individual valvetrain and engine.
Some engines grow more than others, and some cam profiles need more lash than others.
I do the following. I heat up the engine and set one intake and one exhaust valve to what the manufacture wants hot. This could be 0.022 and 0.020 for example.
Then I let it cool down again and wait till the next morning. Here I check cold and use that to set everything cold. Could be 0.012, 0.008 or what ever. But it gives me a uniform method that does not rely on the engine being hot. From that point on I always know what the cold lash should be. And like Morris said, don't overthink it. You won't feel the difference between 0.002" if you set it on a slightly colder morning etc.
EO - IC.
How Cool is it to have your engine builder as your friend and master mechanic? Best Team Possible!!
Is that for all Motors and Cam shafts ?
For solid rollers, yes.
Where was this the other day. Had to call like 5 people to figure out how to set the lash
👍
can i use this procedure on hydraulic roller
not the lashing steps but the steps to where the cam lobes bottom circle are at
Even easier just do all intakes based on the firing order. Every 90 degrees will have the next lash ready. Then focus on the exhausts.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
World's fastest streetcar and burnout camper
EO/IC
This is why my SBC with a solid roller has been ok for 40000km. It's not rocket science!!! Get it right from the start and you have it made!!!
giving away flat rate secrets...
Lol face reveal
All the obsessive compulsive viewers just lost their minds...
street car, never.