This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other UA-cam instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs. This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional. All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that! Do it the right way! Great video!
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment. I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move. As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve. Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate. He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
When you have the engine on number one com you can adj every rocker arm that has the lifter all the way down then just make one full turn and do the other ones then your threw
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
I'm rebuilding a 396CID with a new COMP-CAM flat tappet/hydraulic lifters, new push rods, new pistons, and the heads are being redone with all new parts. When I go to break in this motor, I'm going to use top grade break in motor oil, and would like to know... The valves have double springs, and I was curious to know if I should remove the inner valve spring to break in the new camshaft and other items listed? If so, should I also use this technique in your video for adjusting the rocker arms and push rods? Thanks, Joseph
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you so very much. When I remove the inner valve springs for the break-in, should I use your method on the outer springs to tighten them… Example, you have a video showing how to adjust valves, giving the hydraulic lifter a bit of “Pre-Load” I’m assuming, once I remove the inner springs, I should tighten the out springs, as if I were adding Pre-Load? Thanks in advance, Joseph
Hi thanks for the video, i have the same 327 in my vette, i on hydraulic lifter, i did exactly what you have shown and they are much more quiet but still to much i think at idle !! any advice
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
Hola amigo e echo esa graduación en mi Suburban 93 motor 350 y no me queda bien el motor queda muy falloso ahorita si solo gradúa al final una cuarta si me queda más entonado pero metiéndole media vuelta no aque se debe q es lo q puede estar malo los taquetes..??
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment. That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.
Awesome video just what I needed ...I have a GM 304 V8 very similar engine same hydraulic setup saw rockers I have the manual and has nothing like this in it .. has torque specs? Do these come loose if not torqued or Cheers thanks heaps
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
Thank you. I have a 288 480 cam. I can just twist the push rods. Lifters have been soaked and motor has been run. For a short period of time. From what I'm gathering from you is. If I'm thinking right or understanding you is I still need to go a half a turn????
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.
Enjoy watching your videos, I have a 1984 C10 305 V8 Original, Cast Iron Intake. Removed Smog Control, Has EGR Valve on cast Iron intake, Would it be safe to remove EGR valve? and close off the heat cross over, cast iron intake before reinstalling? Thanks for info
Something you said is very important. You said dont use the spin lash method because some of you lifters might be collapsed and some pumped up. Thats a Problem itself no matter if you use up/down lash or the spin. You want all your lifters to be released. Meaning fully extended. Period. If some of your lifters are collapsed and some are not. Your always gonna have problems. .
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
AWESOME Video Sir! But I have a question, I bought that exact same Balancer , the car hasent even been driven and it's all ready rusted? Is this a common problem with these Balancers? Thanks
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other UA-cam instructors need to learn a lesson from this man.
If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
The best teacher on the Avondale campus I learned a lot from you Torres you are the man !!
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
Thanks
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@@Myvintageiron7512
No.
Thank you. You have great helpful content :)
Probably the Easiest method for Beginners!! Thanks for sharing!!
Exhaust opening, Intake Closing. Never failed me yet. Great, clear, concise video.
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
This won't work with a big roller
Thats how Ive done it for 40 yrs and don't know why anybody would do it any other way unless they just love all that extra turning of the crank..
@@georgealmeida7382 right idiots
@@georgealmeida7382 does this work on a 5.3
L
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs.
This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional.
All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that!
Do it the right way!
Great video!
What an amazing explanation! I've never heard it explained any better. You sir, win. I learned so much from this .. thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
I’m old school,after watching your video, I feel real comfortable in adjusting the valves on my 74’ Corvette ! Thanks
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
Thank you for a well explained video on how to adjust valves I realized what I did wrong watching you thank you so much
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed.
Step by step instructions and great visual information.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
Thank You
Perfect....always remember boys, most dirt gets into your engine from your tools....make sure your sockets, up inside, are clean😎
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I never heard this before and I am 80. If you read enough you learn something new everyday. Thanks I will try this next time.
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment.
I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move.
As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve.
Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Watching this vid I have learned a lot. How to adjust the valve train on a small block Chevy. Very good demonstration.
I learn so much from your videos. Have rebuild my first sbc with your videos! Thanks!
Wow this man is awesome ! Literally best lesson i have ever seen .
Great video! Same procedure on hydraulic lifter kohler engines. You got a sub from me!
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate.
He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
GREAT video. I've always spun the pushrod with two fingers. Good to learn new tricks!
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
That's the way I started doing lash in the early 90s by my own reasoning. I was told to spin the push rod and it just doesn't work well.
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
Best video I've found so far showing this! Been trying to find something as clear and simply put so i can get my old sbc dialed in.
Here is an easier way. I went 40 years doing it the hard way until I found this. ua-cam.com/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/v-deo.html
I have never set valve lash before but you explained perfectly so even I could do. I'm going to go do it right now .
I did it with no issues, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
I used a dog toy whistle and a rubber hose put it in the number 1.
Perfect explanation and helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany
I have found that your method is the best way, by far. Good job man nice pointers. Good luck in the future.
I appreciate that!
I always verify compression TDC by watching the lifters. If intake closes just before TDC, then, at TDC, you are on compression.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
Flat tappet hydraulic or solid? If it's hydraulic it's probably so the valves close more reliably
We can clearly see why youre an instructor at UTI. I almost went there as a high school graduate. I regret not going everyday 🙏💪😎👍🍀🌅🌆
I`m old school I get zero up and down lash. rotate 90 deg 3 times. then 1/.2 turn on all. done..
I love your videos, Keep them coming.
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
When you have the engine on number one com you can adj every rocker arm that has the lifter all the way down then just make one full turn and do the other ones then your threw
Except when its in the car and the intake is on the motor the lifters are hard to judge.
I do do it that way though.
This is pure gold I appreciate this so much !!!!!!!
You are helping me out tremendously brotha thank you.
Glad to help
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Love binge watching your videos. Thank you for sharing you knowledge and making it easy to understand.
Great, clear instructions, simple to follow, we're doing a friends 350 sbc atm. Appreciate your video's. 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
you are a great instructor....plain and simple.
Yu CB
I love your videos , you rascal Keep em’ comin
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
You explain things very well..And you know your sh**......Keep the good build videos coming!!
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
Awesome video!! I am going to install a Edelbrock top end kit on my 350.
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Extremely helpful, easy to understand. Thanks
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO NICE WORK 👍👍👍
Finally someone that knows what they are talking about!
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
Blaspheme! A red block? What? Lol I haven't even watched yet, but great vid. You always teach me well and are highly effective.
Glad you enjoyed!
Thank you for making this video.
Great Video I have a question with the dry lifters wouldn't they collapse do to the valve spring pressure as you go though the 1/4 turns
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
On a running motor which has ticking sound do you adjust the same way.
great video but never use a deep well socket when adjusting valves
Excellent video, very clear in your instructions as always.
Cheers
Lunch can wait. I'm gonna watch your vid first. #knowledgeispower
I'm rebuilding a 396CID with a new COMP-CAM flat tappet/hydraulic lifters, new push rods, new pistons, and the heads are being redone with all new parts.
When I go to break in this motor, I'm going to use top grade break in motor oil, and would like to know... The valves have double springs, and I was curious to know if I should remove the inner valve spring to break in the new camshaft and other items listed? If so, should I also use this technique in your video for adjusting the rocker arms and push rods?
Thanks,
Joseph
Yes remove them
@@Myvintageiron7512
Thank you so very much.
When I remove the inner valve springs for the break-in, should I use your method on the outer springs to tighten them… Example, you have a video showing how to adjust valves, giving the hydraulic lifter a bit of “Pre-Load”
I’m assuming, once I remove the inner springs, I should tighten the out springs, as if I were adding Pre-Load?
Thanks in advance,
Joseph
Hi thanks for the video, i have the same 327 in my vette, i on hydraulic lifter, i did exactly what you have shown and they are much more quiet but still to much i think at idle !! any advice
turn the radio up and drive it
are there other cylinders that you can lash at the same time as you do cylinder #1?
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
do it dry
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
Hola amigo e echo esa graduación en mi Suburban 93 motor 350 y no me queda bien el motor queda muy falloso ahorita si solo gradúa al final una cuarta si me queda más entonado pero metiéndole media vuelta no aque se debe q es lo q puede estar malo los taquetes..??
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment.
That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.
You have to have the valvetrain completely installed and ready for adjustment. Watch the video again, because you missed something.
Quick question.... Do you adjust hyd roller lifters the same way with lash and preload?
Great video and explanation! Saved me today during a total brainfart!
Great to hear!
Thanks for the training info, learned allot.
I have the other timing tab with the tube and small scale before it,can I install the other tab like you have or how do I do it?
Awesome video just what I needed ...I have a GM 304 V8 very similar engine same hydraulic setup saw rockers I have the manual and has nothing like this in it .. has torque specs? Do these come loose if not torqued or
Cheers thanks heaps
Glad it helped
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
Thank you. I have a 288 480 cam. I can just twist the push rods. Lifters have been soaked and motor has been run. For a short period of time. From what I'm gathering from you is. If I'm thinking right or understanding you is I still need to go a half a turn????
After 0 lash yes
@@Myvintageiron7512 it sure does have a sweet sound. Thanks a bunch. God bless.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
Can you put a spark plug in #1 to ensure that you are @ TDC, snug will work, correct? both lifters are down in their bore...
Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.
I was thinking of buying 383 storker kit for my 1997 k1500 I am keeping the bore size standard size what do you think sir?
@1:55 hope you aren’t giving any one the thumbs up. 😉
Thanks for the video you and a great detail appreciate it
All you have to do is watch number 6 cylinder on valve overlap and you will be positive number one
With a small cam, can you use the method where you do all the cylinders at TDC #1 twice?
That makes total sense to me now thank you
Enjoy watching your videos, I have a 1984 C10 305 V8 Original, Cast Iron Intake. Removed Smog Control, Has EGR Valve on cast Iron intake, Would it be safe to remove EGR valve? and close off the heat cross over, cast iron intake before reinstalling? Thanks for info
yes as long as you don't need to pass smog test
I’d work for you any day sir. Thank you for the free knowledge
Great Vid, perfect timing, We are at this stage right now!! What is the story on the intake gaskets being held in place with studs? Thanks!
Something you said is very important. You said dont use the spin lash method because some of you lifters might be collapsed and some pumped up. Thats a Problem itself no matter if you use up/down lash or the spin. You want all your lifters to be released. Meaning fully extended. Period. If some of your lifters are collapsed and some are not. Your always gonna have problems. .
No I don't agree if you are simply running your rocker down to zero lash you're going to be in the same starting point lifter pumped up or not
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
if the lifter is bled down you will be half way down the plunger travel before it stops spinning
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
AWESOME Video Sir! But I have a question, I bought that exact same Balancer , the car hasent even been driven and it's all ready rusted? Is this a common problem with these Balancers? Thanks
They are suppose to be painted just like the engine
@Myvintageiron7512 Thank You Sir. Love the content.