You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment. That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
350tbi here. I got what sounds like lash when truck starts first thing and continues until truck is warmed up. Almost sounds like a small diesel. Brand new reman from auto parts store
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
Am I in the Mandela Effect? I remember when I was young, before I went to diesel, All the manuals I looked at stated 3/4 turn static or running on stock sbc and 1 turn on inline 6. They stated, it puts the lifter in the middle of its travel. With the valve covers off I like the valve overlap method, as far as I know all piston engines fire on closed valves.
Except if the lfter pumps up and keeps the valve from completely seating. Closer to zero lash also gives the lifter more chance to stabilize with 1/8th turn down.
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
What I was thought With the engine running Back off each rocker until it clicks. Then tighten until it quites down and tighten 1/4 turn... I've run mine at 1/8 turn..
Yeah i even have a ser of covers with the tops opened up to keep most of the oil off the headers but learned this dry way is much better. When i was young it never occured to figgure out how they did new un-run motors that never needed to be reset.
Hola amigo e echo esa graduación en mi Suburban 93 motor 350 y no me queda bien el motor queda muy falloso ahorita si solo gradúa al final una cuarta si me queda más entonado pero metiéndole media vuelta no aque se debe q es lo q puede estar malo los taquetes..??
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
I have a question? I have a 73 Nova and will be putting on a better set of heads. I know I will have to readjust the lifters when I put new heads on. I take it this way of adjusting them will not work it only works on new unused lifters?
First thing you do is prime oil system with distributor in there so that right oil lifter Bank gets oil gets lifters primed go to top dead center number one and you literally can just the engine by the firing order 184 36572 opposite of number 1 top dead center would be 6521843 by watching your valve train exhaust goes up and down your intake will slightly start to go down that would be the opposite cylinder of the one you want to adjust on all engines I check valve separation to piston at top dead center I've had timing gear sets with the holes not drilled markings not drilled in the right place
Enjoy watching your videos, I have a 1984 C10 305 V8 Original, Cast Iron Intake. Removed Smog Control, Has EGR Valve on cast Iron intake, Would it be safe to remove EGR valve? and close off the heat cross over, cast iron intake before reinstalling? Thanks for info
I do it your way, except that I like doing the preload on a running engine. Back each valve off until it taps, take the tap out then go 1/2 turn slowly. Some guys like 3/4. It tosses a bit of oil around but not bad, and it's quick & accurate.
DON'T ! do that it takes years of life off the cam every manufacturer has warnings about not adjusting hyd lifter cams with the engine running it is the incorrect way to do it
Would this be the same procedure for a big block Chevy also? I happen to be freshening one up this week that’s been sitting for a few years. It will remain in the vehicle while I check the valves but I’ll have the intake manifold off.
If you have a hydraulic cam, get zero lash like he shows, then the half turn to set preload, then tighten the screw inside to lock the nut in place. I just set mine last weekend with roller rockers.
@@bobstephens8851 thanks for the reply. I set my rockers just like the video. Started to screw in the Allen screws. They go all the way in. I've seen other videos and the Allen screw is barely about the large nut. Am I missing something?
If you want peak power, when you’re done following the instructions in this video you’ll have to go back and adjust the valves again while the engine is running and warmed up. That means while the engine is running you have to pull off the valve covers and create a block or deflector so that Oil doesn’t squirt out all over the place while you adjust the valves. It’s popular to use the super long Diesel feeler gauges on solid cams. With hydraulics, adjust till the noise just starts plus a quarter turn back. Or, if noise isn’t n issue, adjust till the noise just starts a little. The bottom line is that you’ll never get the most power out of your engine unless you adjust the valves on the engine while running and warmed up.
Nice. But, if your rockers are too loose then every stroke is compression. Your technique and explanation are great. You may need to help some people get into "the ballpark" before starting the procedure. OTOH, if you're this far into an engine "the ballpark" should be understood.
I watched some Ellison empire video on valve adjustment WOW!!!! What a waste of time and effort I hope that people don’t fall for that way of doing the adjustment
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other UA-cam instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
The setting of the GM/Chevrolet valves... GM/Chevrolet never turned an engine over and over and over to achieve complete setting. Timing chain when 1st (installed) dot to dot * IS * 6 up, set 8 of 16, turn once timing tab back to timing tab, set 8 more (obvious as to what ones are not set) set those. *DONE* Yes there IS more than one way to skin a cat, but why go around the block making 3 rights when your already standing there. And then you could set 1 at a time, or the EIEIO (farm pun) method given to people (that buy there cam's) as a way to get it done. I coulda set 16 valves in LESS time than it took to type this out... Run engines over 10 Thousand RPM in racing (as well as other) applications, NEVER experienced any issues or problems. Once the lifter is *OFF* the base circle your there (ready to set) GO... No. 1up cylinder, the setting may be adjusted Ex: 1-3-4-8. In: 1-2-5-7. Then turn the engine one more complete revolution which will bring up. ****** 6 first or 1 won't matter ****** No. 6up cylinder, the valves may be adjusted: Ex 2-5-6-7 In 3-4-6-8
This does not work with big roller cams. I understand what your saying ive done it many times with small flat tappet cams However I assure you 90% of people reading this have no clue what you are talking about
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all petrol stations to only one state operated central gas station per city. From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
I'm rebuilding a 396CID with a new COMP-CAM flat tappet/hydraulic lifters, new push rods, new pistons, and the heads are being redone with all new parts. When I go to break in this motor, I'm going to use top grade break in motor oil, and would like to know... The valves have double springs, and I was curious to know if I should remove the inner valve spring to break in the new camshaft and other items listed? If so, should I also use this technique in your video for adjusting the rocker arms and push rods? Thanks, Joseph
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you so very much. When I remove the inner valve springs for the break-in, should I use your method on the outer springs to tighten them… Example, you have a video showing how to adjust valves, giving the hydraulic lifter a bit of “Pre-Load” I’m assuming, once I remove the inner springs, I should tighten the out springs, as if I were adding Pre-Load? Thanks in advance, Joseph
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
Lift push rod, don't spin. Push rods have round balls on both ends, they are going to spin so false reading. Rocker moves side to side! Yes, it pivots on ball in the center and push rod. False. Used GM specs of 3/4 turn past zero lash, otherwise you will revisit the adjustment. Use sister cylinders as #1 Exh goes down, intake goes up. #5 is sister cylinder on base circle of cam, it is adjusted next. Order; 1,8,6,5,4,3,2 Sisters; 1-5 8-6 4-7 3-2 (Firing order, cut in half) Rock the first / adjust I & E on next sister. 6-1 5-8 7-2 2-3 Rock ------Adjust + 3/4 down. DK, ASE master since 78, retired
@@charleswittmer After all, I use metal dye on valve tips to see if the middle target is dead on. Ford 360cu in were the worst for guide wear. You could see light thru the sides.
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
He made it a lot more confusing than it Hass to be. He keeps rotating the fucking engine probably because he’s old and he works for UTI. I’ve been spinning wrenches hard-core since I was 20 and a lot of those guys come out of UTI and you will swear to God they never touched a engine or any boats or nuts that are not attached to them. they sure know how it works though he could have cut the whole middle of his explanation out and it would’ve made more sense, but you know how those whole shop teachers are just keep repeating there self😭😭😂😂🤣 I bet he’s a good teacher if you pay the fuck attention but if he stuck to what he was originally teaching, at least what I caught from it first to the intake valve with your first 8 1/4 turns then go adjust the exhaust valves wit ya next 8 1/4 turns and that’s a wrap this is equal to four revolutions on the crank and that’s why they call it a four stroke😭😭😭🤣🤣😂 seriously I can do it without all of this malarkey but this is a method you’re just gonna need two more rotations on the crank, which would put you at four instead of two 🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾🥷🏾
When you have the engine on number one com you can adj every rocker arm that has the lifter all the way down then just make one full turn and do the other ones then your threw
Probably the Easiest method for Beginners!! Thanks for sharing!!
I’m old school,after watching your video, I feel real comfortable in adjusting the valves on my 74’ Corvette ! Thanks
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
GREAT video. I've always spun the pushrod with two fingers. Good to learn new tricks!
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I never heard this before and I am 80. If you read enough you learn something new everyday. Thanks I will try this next time.
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
Thanks
@@Myvintageiron7512 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa@aaaaaa@a@@a@@@a@@@AA@@a@AA@@a@a@a@@@@@@@@@@@â
@@Myvintageiron7512
No.
Thank you. You have great helpful content :)
Great video and explanation! Saved me today during a total brainfart!
Great to hear!
I think this is a good way to do it, but a word of caution on this procedure: If your rockers are really loose, or like the nut isn't even on there at all, then the method you show for checking TDC on compression or exhaust won't work. Because in that case the lifter will lift the pushrod, but the rocker won't engage the valve since it doesn't have the nut run down as a pivot point. It will just jack the rocker up the stud. And in that case the exhaust valve won't open, even on the exhaust stroke. So if you put your finger on the hole, it will blow out the plug hole on both compression and exhaust. It could lead to a false starting point for the adjustment.
That being said, even in the worst case you'll still be right 50% of the time. And if you repeat the finger test a few times you're bound to catch the issue. But I just mention it in case someone is completely unfamiliar with the operation of the motor and may not realize they have to run the rocker nut down almost all the way down before starting.
You have to have the valvetrain completely installed and ready for adjustment. Watch the video again, because you missed something.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
350tbi here. I got what sounds like lash when truck starts first thing and continues until truck is warmed up. Almost sounds like a small diesel. Brand new reman from auto parts store
Check your oil pressure closer.
Extremely helpful, easy to understand. Thanks
I love your videos , you rascal Keep em’ comin
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
Seems to me as long as the piston is coming up on compression stroke, you could adjust both. Is this wrong or does it have to be tdc? Thanks, really enjoy your videos.
Lunch can wait. I'm gonna watch your vid first. #knowledgeispower
Great video. I have a question. When doing this on a new engine. Should you pump up the lifters with oil before adjusting, or do you want to adjust with them dry ? It maybe a stupid question, but I just want to verify. Thank you for your time.
do it dry
Am I in the Mandela Effect? I remember when I was young, before I went to diesel, All the manuals I looked at stated 3/4 turn static or running on stock sbc and 1 turn on inline 6. They stated, it puts the lifter in the middle of its travel. With the valve covers off I like the valve overlap method, as far as I know all piston engines fire on closed valves.
Except if the lfter pumps up and keeps the valve from completely seating. Closer to zero lash also gives the lifter more chance to stabilize with 1/8th turn down.
I did your the second method, since I have a roller cam, after I was done I turned the engine on, however, I have now a clanking sound which seems to come from one of the valve covers. What could have caused this 😣. Did I do something wrong?
My question is, if you go up and down with the pushrod or spin it, arent you still going to achieve the same zero lash? You dont want to get into the travel of the plunger, so you dont mash the adjustment until you can't turn the pushrod with your channel locks, you just take away the free movement. If the plunger isn't at the top of its travel then the spring is shot in the lifter.
if the lifter is bled down you will be half way down the plunger travel before it stops spinning
@@Myvintageiron7512 if you are half way down the plunger travel when you feel resistance, you lifters are shot. You aren't making it stop, just feel the resistance. I guess it's all in the feel!
@@Myvintageiron7512 what my point is if the plunger is half way down it's the same place for the up and down movement as well. Half way through the travel until the up and down movement stops too.
What I was thought
With the engine running
Back off each rocker until it clicks. Then tighten until it quites down and tighten 1/4 turn...
I've run mine at 1/8 turn..
it is not a good idea to adjust these with the engine running it damages the cam
@@Myvintageiron7512
never had a problem
Yeah i even have a ser of covers with the tops opened up to keep most of the oil off the headers but learned this dry way is much better. When i was young it never occured to figgure out how they did new un-run motors that never needed to be reset.
Hola amigo e echo esa graduación en mi Suburban 93 motor 350 y no me queda bien el motor queda muy falloso ahorita si solo gradúa al final una cuarta si me queda más entonado pero metiéndole media vuelta no aque se debe q es lo q puede estar malo los taquetes..??
I have seen guys adjust the rockers with the engine running. Is the incorrect way to do it? Thanks for the videos.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
I have a question? I have a 73 Nova and will be putting on a better set of heads. I know I will have to readjust the lifters when I put new heads on. I take it this way of adjusting them will not work it only works on new unused lifters?
no it will work no problem
First thing you do is prime oil system with distributor in there so that right oil lifter Bank gets oil gets lifters primed go to top dead center number one and you literally can just the engine by the firing order 184 36572 opposite of number 1 top dead center would be 6521843 by watching your valve train exhaust goes up and down your intake will slightly start to go down that would be the opposite cylinder of the one you want to adjust on all engines I check valve separation to piston at top dead center I've had timing gear sets with the holes not drilled markings not drilled in the right place
Great video, will this work with the 350 ZZ4? It's a hydraulic roller cam thanks from the UK.
Enjoy watching your videos, I have a 1984 C10 305 V8 Original, Cast Iron Intake. Removed Smog Control, Has EGR Valve on cast Iron intake, Would it be safe to remove EGR valve? and close off the heat cross over, cast iron intake before reinstalling? Thanks for info
yes as long as you don't need to pass smog test
I could tell this video was good because I had to watch 4 commercials to view it 😊
I do it your way, except that I like doing the preload on a running engine. Back each valve off until it taps, take the tap out then go 1/2 turn slowly. Some guys like 3/4. It tosses a bit of oil around but not bad, and it's quick & accurate.
DON'T ! do that it takes years of life off the cam every manufacturer has warnings about not adjusting hyd lifter cams with the engine running it is the incorrect way to do it
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm 72, been doing this stuff since I was a kid. I have never lost a cam,.... sooooo..... whatever you like.
E.P.I.C. Is what I was taught. E exhaust starts to oPen adjust intake, Intake starts to Close adjust exhaust🙂
That's really good I've never heard that before
But if your Motors all together how do you get rid of the lash
That motor in the video has two different timing marks on the timing chain cover. How do you know which one is accurate?
I always find true TDC before I put the heads on and mark the balancer
Would this be the same procedure for a big block Chevy also? I happen to be freshening one up this week that’s been sitting for a few years. It will remain in the vehicle while I check the valves but I’ll have the intake manifold off.
This is great when the engine is out of the car and no intake on it
works in the car too
@1:55 hope you aren’t giving any one the thumbs up. 😉
Not to get off subject but did you ever finish the S10 427 build, are we going to see that video
Thanks good video.
I would put number 6 ( on a chev engine) on overlap then I know number one has just finished the compression stroke
great video
Whats the name of that harmonic balancer? With the 90° marks?
Hey great video. Question,
If I'm using Crane 1.5 roller rockers, how far down should the small Allen screw go into the nut?
If you have a hydraulic cam, get zero lash like he shows, then the half turn to set preload, then tighten the screw inside to lock the nut in place. I just set mine last weekend with roller rockers.
the Allen scew is a lock for the adjuster it needs to be tight
@@bobstephens8851 thanks for the reply. I set my rockers just like the video. Started to screw in the Allen screws. They go all the way in. I've seen other videos and the Allen screw is barely about the large nut. Am I missing something?
Should have soaked all the lifters in oil first so they are full of oil then you don't dry start
Thank you 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
Spin method is the easy way ur making it more difficult than it is
no you will have an incorrect adjustment
Why do some do half turn preload and some do 3/4 does it matter thx.
not really
Would this be similar to fords 302 flat tappet? Cant seem to find videos of those.
Is it the same for the ls engine??
If you want peak power, when you’re done following the instructions in this video you’ll have to go back and adjust the valves again while the engine is running and warmed up. That means while the engine is running you have to pull off the valve covers and create a block or deflector so that Oil doesn’t squirt out all over the place while you adjust the valves. It’s popular to use the super long Diesel feeler gauges on solid cams. With hydraulics, adjust till the noise just starts plus a quarter turn back. Or, if noise isn’t n issue, adjust till the noise just starts a little. The bottom line is that you’ll never get the most power out of your engine unless you adjust the valves on the engine while running and warmed up.
Hi great channel quick question did you teach at uti?
Why is there 2 different timing tabs
just wondered what state you are in and if you have a website?
How to adjust five cylinders valve
Nice. But, if your rockers are too loose then every stroke is compression. Your technique and explanation are great. You may need to help some people get into "the ballpark" before starting the procedure. OTOH, if you're this far into an engine "the ballpark" should be understood.
Are the lifters dry or did u presoak them?
DRY WITH CAM LUBE IN THE BORES ON THE LIFTER BOTTOM AND ON THE CAM LOBES
Dude that's not your thumb. Lol
👍
My 350 only has the timing tab at 12 o'clock on the timing cover, what's up with that?
ua-cam.com/video/mti6YjR97sM/v-deo.html
Thanks bud ✌
I watched some Ellison empire video on valve adjustment
WOW!!!!
What a waste of time and effort
I hope that people don’t fall for that way of doing the adjustment
These are done dry correct?
Yes
Do You pre-soak your lifters or pump them up first before you install them?
No.
Nope you don't need to if thet are rollers you should soak them in oil but this is simply to lube the roller
What happened to the bbc s10
it's in the back yard still gona do it
Can someone give the the part number of that harmonic balancer please
Perfect....always remember boys, most dirt gets into your engine from your tools....make sure your sockets, up inside, are clean😎
Been spinning the push rods for 0 lash for 50 years. Never had a problem. Would challenge which is more accurate. You can feel the lightest drag on the push rod when spinning it. Doubt your gap...no gap is that accurate.
if you do something wrong for 50 years is still wrong most people will have incorrect adjustment using the spin method, if some lifters are blead down and some are pumped up you will have a different adjustment from valve to valve no where in the service manual does it direct you to spin the push rod
@@Myvintageiron7512 I'm not saying your method is wrong, and if something works for you without compromising the operation then use it. You're saying spinning is wrong, but I fail to see how your banging the rod up and down is better or how your method compensates for a lifter that has leaked down. I'd think the banging around would be more likely to collapse a weak lifter. Most of my (old school) race car/ hot rodder buddies use the spin method. Not saying we know everything, just using what works.
He said until you can't spin the pushrod, not until you feel a slight drag @ zero lash which is where some folks go wrong. You can spin the pushrod until you collapse the lifter and start opening the valve. I've been adjusting hydraulic lifters by feeling the drag by spinning the pusrod since the '70s. You can absolutely tell when all the lash goes away. Then add your preferred preload , 1/2 turn is what I usually do.
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
I used a dog toy whistle and a rubber hose put it in the number 1.
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other UA-cam instructors need to learn a lesson from this man.
If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
What an amazing explanation! I've never heard it explained any better. You sir, win. I learned so much from this .. thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
I always verify compression TDC by watching the lifters. If intake closes just before TDC, then, at TDC, you are on compression.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
This won't work with a big roller
Thats how Ive done it for 40 yrs and don't know why anybody would do it any other way unless they just love all that extra turning of the crank..
@@georgealmeida7382 right idiots
@@georgealmeida7382 does this work on a 5.3
L
The setting of the GM/Chevrolet valves... GM/Chevrolet never turned an engine over and over and over to achieve complete setting. Timing chain when 1st (installed) dot to dot * IS * 6 up, set 8 of 16, turn once timing tab back to timing tab, set 8 more (obvious as to what ones are not set) set those. *DONE* Yes there IS more than one way to skin a cat, but why go around the block making 3 rights when your already standing there. And then you could set 1 at a time, or the EIEIO (farm pun) method given to people (that buy there cam's) as a way to get it done. I coulda set 16 valves in LESS time than it took to type this out... Run engines over 10 Thousand RPM in racing (as well as other) applications, NEVER experienced any issues or problems. Once the lifter is *OFF* the base circle your there (ready to set) GO...
No. 1up cylinder, the setting may be adjusted
Ex: 1-3-4-8.
In: 1-2-5-7.
Then turn the engine one more complete revolution which will bring up. ****** 6 first or 1 won't matter ******
No. 6up cylinder, the valves may be adjusted:
Ex 2-5-6-7
In 3-4-6-8
This does not work with big roller cams.
I understand what your saying ive done it many times with small flat tappet cams However I assure you 90% of people reading this have no clue what you are talking about
@@Myvintageiron7512 does on all of our 700+ lift SOLID rollers
@@Myvintageiron7512 does on all of ours
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025
on by reducing all petrol stations to only one state operated central gas
station per city. From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be
banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine
and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027
on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any
longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
Great video! Same procedure on hydraulic lifter kohler engines. You got a sub from me!
I`m old school I get zero up and down lash. rotate 90 deg 3 times. then 1/.2 turn on all. done..
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed.
Step by step instructions and great visual information.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
Thank You
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Thank you for a well explained video on how to adjust valves I realized what I did wrong watching you thank you so much
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
Exhaust opening, Intake Closing. Never failed me yet. Great, clear, concise video.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I learn so much from your videos. Have rebuild my first sbc with your videos! Thanks!
All you have to do is watch number 6 cylinder on valve overlap and you will be positive number one
great video but never use a deep well socket when adjusting valves
I'm rebuilding a 396CID with a new COMP-CAM flat tappet/hydraulic lifters, new push rods, new pistons, and the heads are being redone with all new parts.
When I go to break in this motor, I'm going to use top grade break in motor oil, and would like to know... The valves have double springs, and I was curious to know if I should remove the inner valve spring to break in the new camshaft and other items listed? If so, should I also use this technique in your video for adjusting the rocker arms and push rods?
Thanks,
Joseph
Yes remove them
@@Myvintageiron7512
Thank you so very much.
When I remove the inner valve springs for the break-in, should I use your method on the outer springs to tighten them… Example, you have a video showing how to adjust valves, giving the hydraulic lifter a bit of “Pre-Load”
I’m assuming, once I remove the inner springs, I should tighten the out springs, as if I were adding Pre-Load?
Thanks in advance,
Joseph
Perfect explanation and helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany
The best teacher on the Avondale campus I learned a lot from you Torres you are the man !!
That was not your thumb. That’s what she said
I was thinking of buying 383 storker kit for my 1997 k1500 I am keeping the bore size standard size what do you think sir?
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
Lift push rod, don't spin. Push rods have round balls on both ends, they are going to spin so false reading.
Rocker moves side to side! Yes, it pivots on ball in the center and push rod. False.
Used GM specs of 3/4 turn past zero lash, otherwise you will revisit the adjustment.
Use sister cylinders as #1 Exh goes down, intake goes up.
#5 is sister cylinder on base circle of cam, it is adjusted next.
Order; 1,8,6,5,4,3,2
Sisters; 1-5
8-6
4-7
3-2
(Firing order, cut in half)
Rock the first / adjust I & E on next sister.
6-1
5-8
7-2
2-3
Rock ------Adjust + 3/4 down.
DK, ASE master since 78, retired
I never imagined there could be so many ways to turn a sbc over so many times to do such a simple job.
I like the two revolution way on flat tappet cams but the long way on roller cams.
@@charleswittmer After all, I use metal dye on valve tips to see if the middle target is dead on. Ford 360cu in were the worst for guide wear. You could see light thru the sides.
are there other cylinders that you can lash at the same time as you do cylinder #1?
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
We can clearly see why youre an instructor at UTI. I almost went there as a high school graduate. I regret not going everyday 🙏💪😎👍🍀🌅🌆
He made it a lot more confusing than it Hass to be. He keeps rotating the fucking engine probably because he’s old and he works for UTI. I’ve been spinning wrenches hard-core since I was 20 and a lot of those guys come out of UTI and you will swear to God they never touched a engine or any boats or nuts that are not attached to them. they sure know how it works though he could have cut the whole middle of his explanation out and it would’ve made more sense, but you know how those whole shop teachers are just keep repeating there self😭😭😂😂🤣 I bet he’s a good teacher if you pay the fuck attention but if he stuck to what he was originally teaching, at least what I caught from it first to the intake valve with your first 8 1/4 turns then go adjust the exhaust valves wit ya next 8 1/4 turns and that’s a wrap this is equal to four revolutions on the crank and that’s why they call it a four stroke😭😭😭🤣🤣😂 seriously I can do it without all of this malarkey but this is a method you’re just gonna need two more rotations on the crank, which would put you at four instead of two 🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾🥷🏾
When you have the engine on number one com you can adj every rocker arm that has the lifter all the way down then just make one full turn and do the other ones then your threw
Except when its in the car and the intake is on the motor the lifters are hard to judge.
I do do it that way though.
Wow this man is awesome ! Literally best lesson i have ever seen .