Always learning , I always started at the middle until I switched after I watched you. I started in the middle cause I read a book Jon kosmoski famous house of kolor Kandy owner of house of kolor so pulling the paint is better to see better
Every day is a school day! The fact Gunnie is open to suggestions and tips just further proves the consummate professional he really is! Should be finally starting the respray of MG ZS this coming summer as I'll have my workshop/garage all up and running, and I will be relying HEAVILY on The Gunman to get me through.
I use this method when spraying my completes or when I have a full front end but the reasoning behind it was keeping that wet edge active as long as possible on both sides and also my arm gets tired when working from close to me to extending my arm so this method lets me keep the gun more steady on each pass. Great video as usual sir.
That is how i spray the top panels myself from the center out for couple reasons and side panels starting at the top to the bottom if you are not in a down draft..down draft i may start from bottom on side panels part of the reason is not always having the cleanest or driest air in high humid environment or diy sitch..occasionally water would spit or drip or even a bead of sweat if not entirely suited with this method i could see the water hit panel and just blow it off away from the wet paint the other method the water drops would land on the wet paint and leave bubbles in finish and ruin the job..spraying in texas high humidity method in a not so professional paint booth but getting er dun! Thx for the vid gunny! Always a pleasure mate! Love to paint some shit! Smashing it across the pond!
love your work gunny i was taught many years ago to start in the center and spray outward. i always wondered why you did the opposite. no worries your work always looked good.
I'm 6'.1" with a decent arm reach and I've always sprayed from middle out on roof, hood and sometimes trunk depending on vehicle size. Its works out just fine. I say do what works for you
I've always painted that way, starting in the middle and working out, because I read that technique in an old spray painting book. The same with a roof, being short I'd rather not over-reach wet paint where ever possible. I'm still a very "hit & miss" painter though.
Hey, for the standox sealer try adding the standox plasticiser with it. It really makes a huge difference helping it nice and smooth. Be sure to let it dry 15 to 20 minutes before baking.
Always done this method in the old days when using acrylic-based air dry paints the main reason we did it is that in the center of the roof or bonnet you can lay the paint down really wet with little chance of runs so when you have finished one half and move around to paint the other half you continue to lay the paint down as wet as possible ( of course spray painters know the limits) so the wet on wet takes place giving you the best results when using those types of paints.
I like to go from front to back or visa versa as opposed to side to side, to avoid build up on body lines when painting a flat bonnet. I'll try adapt this method with my application technique
I think I'm not the only one who's been wondering where you've been... The restoration workshop sounds like it would have been interesting to participate in. Keep up the good work!
This is what im been waiting, videos from painting jobs🤘🤘 Dont get me wrong, those detailing videos are great too but i love painting and clearing and you are the one and only for that👌
Lots of great comments here, but no one mentioned painting the hood front to back on the first coat and THEN 90 degrees to that on the second coat (side to side). We pretty much had to do that to eliminate tiger stripes in the lacquers and enamels of the 60's and 70's. And, we mostly had our DeVilbiss MBC and JGA siphon guns (or the famous Binks 7 which is still widely copied!) I wish I had my truly bitchin (another California term of the 60's) ProLite back then. Paying attention to the wet edge and moving like a consistent robot still gets the job done today.
What ever gets the best results. I tried that when I was getting recertification at Standox in Chicago, and the instructor called me out in front of the class. He said I was doing it wrong. Kinda pissed me off. It was the only time I did it that way. He then started talking about the wet edge issue. Whatever, It all comes down to results. The middle out is the only way I spray roofs. If I do it the other way, I end up tilting my gun forward.
On cooler days, I've had really good luck minimizing orange peel by pre heating the panels slightly with a quartz work light set-up and keeping them warm. Plus heating up the clear itself, (your tip - thanks!). Don't know if that would help with the Standox brand, but maybe do a little experiment?!?
Just about to spray a classic Mercedes in factory metallic silver. Now I'm tossing up whether to use a wet on wet primer or use a standard primer and sand it back first. Time not an issue with this, just want the best finish.
Glasurit wet-on-wet is an easier product for a smooth coat. Try adding 15% flex additive to your sealer for me it softens the edge and tends to lay flatter. @ 15% you won't see a big increase in need for flash and you'll gain some nice chip resistance for the overall film.
i over thin the wow slightly for better lay down /less profile standox standard clear is a good clear for an ms it is warranted but not recommended . and always use the clear with vhs hardeners for higher build
I spray from the inside out In case I press up against the edge it hasn’t been sprayed yet. Otherwise I’m likely to trample on my fresh paint with my stomach or hose, etc.
Thank you 🙏 so much gunny for sharing that information ℹ️ too us you hit the bullseye 🎯 with this one ☝️ gunny it’s always good to make others painters learn new methods of spring keep it up much love and respect ✊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🎯🎯🎯✊✊✊✊✊☝️🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
We use the Spies Hecker wet on wet which I believe may be the same as the Standox and you are correct it lays down very crappy .Ive tried adjusting air pressure,distances,different guns with different size nozzles and it still lays down rough .🤔
Funny, I started like that back when I was a beginner and was told it was wrong, as if there is such a thing with spraying. We all know nothing matters except the result.
@@TheGunmanChannel I found you about a month ago. I bought the pro light with the te10 and te20, it's summertime here in the states so te20 I'll probably switch to the 10 when it turns cold. Point is you sounded like you knew what you were talking about and took a leap of faith, glad I did love the gun.
It's funny because I spent the majority of my career doing like this video and about a year ago I switched to outside in. I especially prefer starting on the outside edge with light color metallic.
I’m having the same problem with Ppg wet on wet primer ever since they changed the hardener to uhs , it seems like the hardener is too thick and when I try to put more thinners in it it just makes the orange peel bigger so like you with a bonnet I have to 2pac prime and sand it, it’s very frustrating . Thanks for the videos it’s great help.
How much primer are you spraying ??? PPG wants us to 1st spray the widest area to cover bodyworks outer scratches & 2nd layer tighter & 3rd coat directly over the body filler itself.......
If you have to spray a large area - We've been using the AirGunza 3.0 tip gun for PPG primer..... Starting from 1 side edge & working inward onto the middle & the thru to the opposite edge......
Why are you using UHS for primer is my question..??? PPGs undercoat catalyst is DCX3030 for the V-Prime 3055....... We use the uhs for delfleet line. We don't spray delfeet much in the body shop...
Another method is if you're standing in front of the bonnet,start spraying from the back,side to side and work your way forwards,that way there's no possibility of a dry edge at all.Obviously that depends on how big the bonnet is,works better on smaller ones
Sorry Gunny as a technical painter you should always use the push pull method on hoods/bonnets, as you did say the wet edge is the most important thing if you paint from the centre you increase the chance of solvent pop, and you will probably double coat and stack paint at the centre
No solvent pop on this job and it's got a really nice even build, slow hardener stays open for long enough to spray this way. This was recommend to me by an ex paint rep so he's a technical painter, like myself too as you already know. But hey, whatever works for you. This works for me so I'll keep doing it.
I always loved the Glasurit 255 but they don't even make it anymore. I liked the film build, UV resistance and durability, harder than MS clears to polish but I always loved it. Also I like the Standox VOC 2K clear which is identical to the Cromax CC-6400. Apart from them I love the Quartz Crystal Clear, Scratch resistant clear but it's not for beginners!! Quartz liquid glass is also great, cheaper but reminds me of the old 255 Glasurit clear.
great vid and thanks for the tips. may i ask why do you do your edges at the end , as in the back of the bonnet edge, in my minds eye you just put a coat of paint on the bonnet which looks great and then as you paint the edge you then cover the bonnet in over spray
I think this is personal preference, I’ve always used the “push/pull” method or edge to edge, keeping the wet edge. I don’t disagree but I find this to be a beginners bad habit, I always try to stop it when I see it, clear coat not so much but the dry spray and overload on base can put a big stripe
Gunny...i watch your videos to learn all I can to improve my cabinet spraying...not cars. I always figgered you did it that way because the finish is much different than precat lacquer...but now that you're switching...im seeing more similarity to what I do. Any chance you might ever consider painting some vintage furniture with clear? I'd love to see your method and gun preference for conversion varnish or lacquer
Mate, I'd love to spray some vintage furniture, I'd have to get some pointers on what products to use. But sounds like fun. You're not in Melbourne by any chance are you?
@@TheGunmanChannel na mate...oregon 🇺🇸. I reckon down there you can get things we can't...like old school lacquer...but maybe not. My pa used to spray lacquer on cars back in the 50s and 60s. Sprays like butter...but finish doesn't last without a lot of maintenance. But yeah...theres a lot of similarities tween cars and cabinets. I use mostly lacquer... Catalyst added at factory.. Or conversion varn. It's tougher against physical damage and water penetration. Probably the cheapest but most common lacquer on the market here for diy is "Deft" here in U.S.. If you ever get some cool old furniture...give her a try! Let's paint some Chit!!!
@@TheGunmanChannel that's awesome mate...we got gobs of classic cars here needing paint! You can crash at my pad till you find a big ole piece of land!
Well every1 sprays different, also if you need or are using fast hardener due to workshop conditions it changes for me. But even from startin at home then tafe always told to spray a way that you can see the paint going on. Ensure your gettin it right so iv always done bonnets and roofs this way. Like buffing end result is what counts 😉😂🤣
Wet on wet is always Peele I find as the primer cures underneath looks worse as time goes on. Used to do transport trucks that way sand them then DP40 then single stage paint it was the only way I could keep up 700 trucks a year
I’ve always sprayed that way. but if you listen to the paint reps they will tell you it’s incorrect and that you should do it from edge to edge. i don’t pay too much mind to them though because most in my area have no real world experience in painting.
My spray technique varies from car to car. The size of the car is the determining factor. Sometimes we do things people say you can't do. Comes out fine in certain situations
Your videos are very informative. Don't know where else to ask this. I plan to paint my sons bonnet and have a very old mint Devilbliss GFHV-501 that was given new to me about 25 years ago. It is an HVLP gun that would have been very expensive when new. Will I have issues painting the bonnet with it since I don't have much experience or is there a gun that would be better for me to use?
Shoot me an email to thegunmanraw@gmail.com otherwise I will miss your reply. Send me a photo of the gun including air cap. The main issue you may have is if your compressor will be able to keep up with HVLP, they require more air than normal guns. Also let me know what compressor you have.
@@TheGunmanChannel I opened the gun up all the way and set the compressor at 25 PSI. At about 1min and 30 sec the compressor kicked on. I continued to hold the gun open for 5 minutes and the compressor stayed at ~110 PSI and kept running.
Mr Gunman, I have a question regarding prep for 2 doors I have replaced, wrong colour but like brand new. Is a light sand with 400 on the orbital sufficient for the base coat of new colour? Cheers🤙
Hey mate not sure if you'll see this but what exactly is the issue you're having with the standox WOW? Do you have trouble with hiding the peel from it or shrinkback? I'm no guru man but I used standoblue for 6 years and was pretty much born into painting with that stuff Absolutely love the standox products!
Nice video bro, just got a question with bonnets and roofs sometimes I get dry finish in some spots, I try to set up my gun the best way I can but not sure what's happening, I use a GTI pro clear gun with 1.4 tip any ideas ? What's the best setup for that gun cheers
G'day mate , just wondering if you could do a vid sometime regarding ISO Free paint system the pros & cons maybe a demo ? As i would like to paint my EB falcon at home but worried about using a full blown 2k due too ISO's , also i really don't want to go down the 1k road again . would really appreciate some advice from a pro on this .
Hiya mate from Warrington UK ! I have an old Riley RMA 1952 car that Im in the process of respraying at home in my garage. I painted the car 18 years ago in celly and its started to look shabby so Im gona respray it in 2K . My compressor is only a 2hp and I think 4.5 to 5 cfm. Took your advice and bought an ANI 160 mini gun but Im wondering if its big enough to do bigger panels ? The car comes to pieces , and is at the minute , so the biggest thing I would paint in one go would be a wing. Liking this FLG gun !! What do you reckon I could use it with my compressor for single panel work?? Love the chanel mate , think I have watched most of all of it ! The ANI 160 full size seems to use less air but this FLG looks fantastic !! Cheers Matey !! Alan.
Looks great as always, I always thought you had to start at one edge of a bonnet/roof then move across to keep your wet edge moving but you have proven it isn't the case. I see you were using the TE20 cap but have you tried the TE10 for clear or is that just a basecoat cap? John UK.
Hey John. I was always the same as you. But if using slow or medium hardeners you do have a bit of time, or if in freezing climates like you 😬 But the TE10 is an all-rounder I do use it for clear every now and then and it works fine. I just prefer the 20 on insurance work because it uses less paint.
I use super-duper turbocharged hyper fast hardener but still get about 3 days between coats of clear!! 😱😁🤣 must say it's turned quite warm here now it's an ass busting 9C today but better that the -4C we were getting 🥶 I'll try the TE10 for clear but I usually use that in my GTI Pro for base, I would get a TE20 but not sure my compressor would be up to the job as I've already blown the head gaskets and it's just a year old 😱😂 cheers Gunny and stay safe 🙏👍
@@rafaelboss1267 I would try this in out method as long as you use slow hardener. But if it was more than just a roof, like sides also, I'd probably do a side first, then my old out-in-out, then the other side, so you're chasing the wet edge.
Gunman - Are you taking your primers/toners & turning them upside down for awhile before putting them on the mixing bank ??? We here at PPG have to turn the cans upside down and then put them on the shaker for 10 minutes before we put them on the bank -- then we have to do at least a 10 min mix..!!.. They all settle these days & the reasons curdle/bind up.
Yes, I always get the apprentice to put them on the shelf upside down, the thing that helps that die back most is thinning it out more but I always avoid messing with the recommended ratios where possible so I don't like doing that.
@@TheGunmanChannel thank you so much I love watching your videos and I have learned a lot I love to paint it seems I have a difficult spraying basecoat but I am good at clear coat I was spraying base coat at 20 psi I will try to raise it to 29
Do shops usually have junk paint that they throw out. I don’t care about the color or even any mixtures, all I want it for is practice. It’s too cold to paint a car where I live, so I I figured I could at least practice. I’m also open to any ideas about mixing anything that would simulate paint, without damaging my gun. If anyone has any other ideas for practicing please let me know. Thanks
I practice with just the gun. Go over the panels to practice keeping an even distance and a steady speed and to work out the best way to do a job before I start. You can use just thinners to get your spray pattern right. Otherwise just buy some cheap acrylic lacquer and practice with it. Make sure you have good PPE .
Gunman Spray Suits Back In Stock!!
www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=gunman
Just ordered my suit
Thanks mate
@@JuanHernandez-gy2jh thank you!!
Always learning , I always started at the middle until I switched after I watched you. I started in the middle cause I read a book Jon kosmoski famous house of kolor Kandy owner of house of kolor so pulling the paint is better to see better
Every day is a school day!
The fact Gunnie is open to suggestions and tips just further proves the consummate professional he really is!
Should be finally starting the respray of MG ZS this coming summer as I'll have my workshop/garage all up and running, and I will be relying HEAVILY on The Gunman to get me through.
Nice gunman I've always done it this way, people keept telling me I was doing it wrong but I know it worked better nice work
Hi Pharraway! Good to my favorite painters supporting each other 👍
Once again a mint Gunman production.
Love your work.
Thanks for sharing mate. We learn so much from you!!!!!!
I use this method when spraying my completes or when I have a full front end but the reasoning behind it was keeping that wet edge active as long as possible on both sides and also my arm gets tired when working from close to me to extending my arm so this method lets me keep the gun more steady on each pass. Great video as usual sir.
That is how i spray the top panels myself from the center out for couple reasons and side panels starting at the top to the bottom if you are not in a down draft..down draft i may start from bottom on side panels part of the reason is not always having the cleanest or driest air in high humid environment or diy sitch..occasionally water would spit or drip or even a bead of sweat if not entirely suited with this method i could see the water hit panel and just blow it off away from the wet paint the other method the water drops would land on the wet paint and leave bubbles in finish and ruin the job..spraying in texas high humidity method in a not so professional paint booth but getting er dun! Thx for the vid gunny! Always a pleasure mate! Love to paint some shit! Smashing it across the pond!
I have been painting that way for the past 40 years.
i got 60 years and counting.
I got 100 and counting
@@TheTyree1234 🤢
I thought I was doing it wrong starting in the middle. Glad other people do this.
Results are all that matters.
I’ve been a painter since the 70s and I’ve always sprayed this way. Hood looks good
Also, never think about it, but now find it good idea, this is way to try, thanks Gunny!
Hey, worth a shot, you may not like it but it works for me.
@@TheGunmanChannel No way, I have been seen your videos about three years and appreciate all your tricks)
Never too late to listen or learn and try something new/different!
love your work gunny i was taught many years ago to start in the center and spray outward. i always wondered why you did the opposite. no worries your work always looked good.
A shitty day at work, needed a little diversion for some sanity.
Bloody good shit Gunny
I'm 6'.1" with a decent arm reach and I've always sprayed from middle out on roof, hood and sometimes trunk depending on vehicle size. Its works out just fine. I say do what works for you
You really are a seriously talented dude. Nice job bro 👏 👍 👌
I've always painted that way, starting in the middle and working out, because I read that technique in an old spray painting book. The same with a roof, being short I'd rather not over-reach wet paint where ever possible. I'm still a very "hit & miss" painter though.
Keep on keeping on Gunny!
Hey, for the standox sealer try adding the standox plasticiser with it. It really makes a huge difference helping it nice and smooth. Be sure to let it dry 15 to 20 minutes before baking.
Always done this method in the old days when using acrylic-based air dry paints the main reason we did it is that in the center of the roof or bonnet you can lay the paint down really wet with little chance of runs so when you have finished one half and move around to paint the other half you continue to lay the paint down as wet as possible ( of course spray painters know the limits) so the wet on wet takes place giving you the best results when using those types of paints.
I've always done the roof that way so it makes sense to do the bonnet that way too
I'm a painter for a Ford dealer.I always spray from center out because its easier to see it going down.
I like to go from front to back or visa versa as opposed to side to side, to avoid build up on body lines when painting a flat bonnet. I'll try adapt this method with my application technique
7 years in the trade. Always did it this way, even tho everyone said it's wrong. Glad you agree with me 😁
I think I'm not the only one who's been wondering where you've been...
The restoration workshop sounds like it would have been interesting to participate in.
Keep up the good work!
This is what im been waiting, videos from painting jobs🤘🤘
Dont get me wrong, those detailing videos are great too but i love painting and clearing and you are the one and only for that👌
Lots of great comments here, but no one mentioned painting the hood front to back on the first coat and THEN 90 degrees to that on the second coat (side to side). We pretty much had to do that to eliminate tiger stripes in the lacquers and enamels of the 60's and 70's. And, we mostly had our DeVilbiss MBC and JGA siphon guns (or the famous Binks 7 which is still widely copied!)
I wish I had my truly bitchin (another California term of the 60's) ProLite back then. Paying attention to the wet edge and moving like a consistent robot still gets the job done today.
Nice painting tip man👍👏 your my inspiration on my channel 🤩🤩🤩
What ever gets the best results. I tried that when I was getting recertification at Standox in Chicago, and the instructor called me out in front of the class. He said I was doing it wrong. Kinda pissed me off. It was the only time I did it that way. He then started talking about the wet edge issue. Whatever, It all comes down to results. The middle out is the only way I spray roofs. If I do it the other way, I end up tilting my gun forward.
On cooler days, I've had really good luck minimizing orange peel by pre heating the panels slightly with a quartz work light set-up and keeping them warm.
Plus heating up the clear itself, (your tip - thanks!).
Don't know if that would help with the Standox brand, but maybe do a little experiment?!?
When I worked at a shop with standox we sprayed standox sealer or “wet on wet” let it dry and sand it down then send off to get painted
Just about to spray a classic Mercedes in factory metallic silver. Now I'm tossing up whether to use a wet on wet primer or use a standard primer and sand it back first. Time not an issue with this, just want the best finish.
100% standard sand-able primer
@@TheGunmanChannel Thanks Heaps !
Top Man 👍👊🤝👌
Glasurit wet-on-wet is an easier product for a smooth coat. Try adding 15% flex additive to your sealer for me it softens the edge and tends to lay flatter. @ 15% you won't see a big increase in need for flash and you'll gain some nice chip resistance for the overall film.
Great Idea, I'll give it a go, I have a job lined up for tomorrow.
Yeah. We mix the plastic wow and put it on everything
I have been painting from back to front seems a lot easier to see the paint go on for me
i over thin the wow slightly for better lay down /less profile standox standard clear is a good clear for an ms it is warranted but not recommended . and always use the clear with vhs hardeners for higher build
I'm going to try this ! 👍
That’s how I always do it. It really works better for me--
I spray from the inside out In case I press up against the edge it hasn’t been sprayed yet. Otherwise I’m likely to trample on my fresh paint with my stomach or hose, etc.
Thank you 🙏 so much gunny for sharing that information ℹ️ too us you hit the bullseye 🎯 with this one ☝️ gunny it’s always good to make others painters learn new methods of spring keep it up much love and respect ✊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🎯🎯🎯✊✊✊✊✊☝️🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
We use the Spies Hecker wet on wet which I believe may be the same as the Standox and you are correct it lays down very crappy .Ive tried adjusting air pressure,distances,different guns with different size nozzles and it still lays down rough .🤔
Standox products have always been hit and miss. Glasurit is hands down the best product going around 👌👌
Sweet spray work !!!
i have always painted bonnets this way, to keep the wet edge on hotter days i just over lap the middle a bit more
MoneyPenny is the God of this trade
Thank you for the video gunman
Funny, I started like that back when I was a beginner and was told it was wrong, as if there is such a thing with spraying. We all know nothing matters except the result.
Exactly brother
@@TheGunmanChannel I found you about a month ago. I bought the pro light with the te10 and te20, it's summertime here in the states so te20 I'll probably switch to the 10 when it turns cold. Point is you sounded like you knew what you were talking about and took a leap of faith, glad I did love the gun.
Nice work Gunny 👌
Μεγάλε είσαι απίστευτος!🙂👌💪
Glasurit all the way dude👌👌👌👌
How much basecoat and laquer did u use in total? thanks
It's funny because I spent the majority of my career doing like this video and about a year ago I switched to outside in. I especially prefer starting on the outside edge with light color metallic.
I'm not sure I'd do this in-out method on colour, just clear.
I’m having the same problem with Ppg wet on wet primer ever since they changed the hardener to uhs , it seems like the hardener is too thick and when I try to put more thinners in it it just makes the orange peel bigger so like you with a bonnet I have to 2pac prime and sand it, it’s very frustrating . Thanks for the videos it’s great help.
How much primer are you spraying ??? PPG wants us to 1st spray the widest area to cover bodyworks outer scratches & 2nd layer tighter & 3rd coat directly over the body filler itself.......
If you have to spray a large area - We've been using the AirGunza 3.0 tip gun for PPG primer..... Starting from 1 side edge & working inward onto the middle & the thru to the opposite edge......
Why are you using UHS for primer is my question..??? PPGs undercoat catalyst is DCX3030 for the V-Prime 3055....... We use the uhs for delfleet line. We don't spray delfeet much in the body shop...
He's talking about wet on wet primer
Another method is if you're standing in front of the bonnet,start spraying from the back,side to side and work your way forwards,that way there's no possibility of a dry edge at all.Obviously that depends on how big the bonnet is,works better on smaller ones
Can you do the same process for base coat?
Sorry Gunny as a technical painter you should always use the push pull method on hoods/bonnets, as you did say the wet edge is the most important thing if you paint from the centre you increase the chance of solvent pop, and you will probably double coat and stack paint at the centre
No solvent pop on this job and it's got a really nice even build, slow hardener stays open for long enough to spray this way. This was recommend to me by an ex paint rep so he's a technical painter, like myself too as you already know. But hey, whatever works for you. This works for me so I'll keep doing it.
Good video so what is the best clear coat you can buy and how is it better? Thanks
I always loved the Glasurit 255 but they don't even make it anymore. I liked the film build, UV resistance and durability, harder than MS clears to polish but I always loved it. Also I like the Standox VOC 2K clear which is identical to the Cromax CC-6400. Apart from them I love the Quartz Crystal Clear, Scratch resistant clear but it's not for beginners!! Quartz liquid glass is also great, cheaper but reminds me of the old 255 Glasurit clear.
great vid and thanks for the tips. may i ask why do you do your edges at the end , as in the back of the bonnet edge, in my minds eye you just put a coat of paint on the bonnet which looks great and then as you paint the edge you then cover the bonnet in over spray
Yes another do what works for you thing. I like to do any edges first and then bury the over spray with the fulll coat on the full panel.
I use normal or slower harder for my wet on wet primer it sits nicer just let it flash off a little longer before bc
I already did that. Now I'm in a new shop using PPG Envirobase and their wet on wet is sooo much better
I think this is personal preference, I’ve always used the “push/pull” method or edge to edge, keeping the wet edge. I don’t disagree but I find this to be a beginners bad habit, I always try to stop it when I see it, clear coat not so much but the dry spray and overload on base can put a big stripe
I've always sprayed middle out just easier to me
Gunny...i watch your videos to learn all I can to improve my cabinet spraying...not cars. I always figgered you did it that way because the finish is much different than precat lacquer...but now that you're switching...im seeing more similarity to what I do. Any chance you might ever consider painting some vintage furniture with clear? I'd love to see your method and gun preference for conversion varnish or lacquer
Mate, I'd love to spray some vintage furniture, I'd have to get some pointers on what products to use. But sounds like fun. You're not in Melbourne by any chance are you?
@@TheGunmanChannel na mate...oregon 🇺🇸. I reckon down there you can get things we can't...like old school lacquer...but maybe not. My pa used to spray lacquer on cars back in the 50s and 60s. Sprays like butter...but finish doesn't last without a lot of maintenance. But yeah...theres a lot of similarities tween cars and cabinets. I use mostly lacquer... Catalyst added at factory.. Or conversion varn. It's tougher against physical damage and water penetration. Probably the cheapest but most common lacquer on the market here for diy is "Deft" here in U.S..
If you ever get some cool old furniture...give her a try!
Let's paint some Chit!!!
@@johnflood6656 I'm working my ass off and saving my money so hopefully when I'm old I can go semi-retired and live in USA and paint loads more shit 😃
@@TheGunmanChannel that's awesome mate...we got gobs of classic cars here needing paint! You can crash at my pad till you find a big ole piece of land!
Well every1 sprays different, also if you need or are using fast hardener due to workshop conditions it changes for me. But even from startin at home then tafe always told to spray a way that you can see the paint going on. Ensure your gettin it right so iv always done bonnets and roofs this way. Like buffing end result is what counts 😉😂🤣
Wet on wet is always Peele I find as the primer cures underneath looks worse as time goes on. Used to do transport trucks that way sand them then DP40 then single stage paint it was the only way I could keep up 700 trucks a year
I’ve always sprayed that way. but if you listen to the paint reps they will tell you it’s incorrect and that you should do it from edge to edge. i don’t pay too much mind to them though because most in my area have no real world experience in painting.
My spray technique varies from car to car. The size of the car is the determining factor. Sometimes we do things people say you can't do. Comes out fine in certain situations
Your videos are very informative. Don't know where else to ask this. I plan to paint my sons bonnet and have a very old mint Devilbliss GFHV-501 that was given new to me about 25 years ago. It is an HVLP gun that would have been very expensive when new. Will I have issues painting the bonnet with it since I don't have much experience or is there a gun that would be better for me to use?
Shoot me an email to thegunmanraw@gmail.com otherwise I will miss your reply. Send me a photo of the gun including air cap. The main issue you may have is if your compressor will be able to keep up with HVLP, they require more air than normal guns. Also let me know what compressor you have.
@@TheGunmanChannel I opened the gun up all the way and set the compressor at 25 PSI. At about 1min and 30 sec the compressor kicked on. I continued to hold the gun open for 5 minutes and the compressor stayed at ~110 PSI and kept running.
Mr Gunman, I have a question regarding prep for 2 doors I have replaced, wrong colour but like brand new. Is a light sand with 400 on the orbital sufficient for the base coat of new colour?
Cheers🤙
Personally I'd recommend 600-800 the basecoat sits a bit nicer over the finer scratches
@@TheGunmanChannel Thanks mate appreciate the help.
@The Gunman My tip for wet on wet primer. use 5% clearcoat in the wetonwet and it will just be perfect. let me know what u think
Hey mate not sure if you'll see this but what exactly is the issue you're having with the standox WOW? Do you have trouble with hiding the peel from it or shrinkback?
I'm no guru man but I used standoblue for 6 years and was pretty much born into painting with that stuff
Absolutely love the standox products!
Nice video bro, just got a question with bonnets and roofs sometimes I get dry finish in some spots, I try to set up my gun the best way I can but not sure what's happening, I use a GTI pro clear gun with 1.4 tip any ideas ? What's the best setup for that gun cheers
G'day mate ,
just wondering if you could do a vid sometime regarding ISO Free paint system the pros & cons maybe a demo ?
As i would like to paint my EB falcon at home but worried about using a full blown 2k due too ISO's , also i really don't want to go down the 1k road again .
would really appreciate some advice from a pro on this .
Will the xxl suit fit someone that is 6'7" 250lbs??? Love your videos. Been watching since I was an apprentice thank you for all the advice
Thanks mate, I would email Chris at info@spraygunsdirect.co.uk and let him know I sent you. He should know if that will fit.
Cromax wet on wet pinches up as well
thx
Wondered so many times why more people don't do this
Hiya mate from Warrington UK ! I have an old Riley RMA 1952 car that Im in the process of respraying at home in my garage.
I painted the car 18 years ago in celly and its started to look shabby so Im gona respray it in 2K .
My compressor is only a 2hp and I think 4.5 to 5 cfm.
Took your advice and bought an ANI 160 mini gun but Im wondering if its big enough to do bigger panels ?
The car comes to pieces , and is at the minute , so the biggest thing I would paint in one go would be a wing.
Liking this FLG gun !!
What do you reckon I could use it with my compressor for single panel work??
Love the chanel mate , think I have watched most of all of it !
The ANI 160 full size seems to use less air but this FLG looks fantastic !!
Cheers Matey !!
Alan.
G'day,
I'm using predominantly Wanda products.
Base coats and clears.
Have you used it and what do you think of it?
Cheers
I've heard of it but never used it, I'm pretty sure it's a budget product
Gunny is that the prolite 1.3
Well im not an automotive spraypainter ( furniture coating industry) but i have been spraying like this for 30years.
Looks great as always, I always thought you had to start at one edge of a bonnet/roof then move across to keep your wet edge moving but you have proven it isn't the case. I see you were using the TE20 cap but have you tried the TE10 for clear or is that just a basecoat cap? John UK.
Hey John. I was always the same as you. But if using slow or medium hardeners you do have a bit of time, or if in freezing climates like you 😬
But the TE10 is an all-rounder I do use it for clear every now and then and it works fine. I just prefer the 20 on insurance work because it uses less paint.
I use super-duper turbocharged hyper fast hardener but still get about 3 days between coats of clear!! 😱😁🤣 must say it's turned quite warm here now it's an ass busting 9C today but better that the -4C we were getting 🥶
I'll try the TE10 for clear but I usually use that in my GTI Pro for base, I would get a TE20 but not sure my compressor would be up to the job as I've already blown the head gaskets and it's just a year old 😱😂 cheers Gunny and stay safe 🙏👍
Would this method also work with matte clears because these are really tricky with stripes showing
As long as you're using slow reducer and hardener I guess it would. But I haven't tried it yet
@@TheGunmanChannel what would you advice on a roof. Appreciate it Pro!
@@rafaelboss1267 I would try this in out method as long as you use slow hardener. But if it was more than just a roof, like sides also, I'd probably do a side first, then my old out-in-out, then the other side, so you're chasing the wet edge.
@@TheGunmanChannel thanks mate will do that next week. Greetings from Holland
I dlove your videos man..
I added you in mu description as i also have a little videos on my page...hope thats that is fine bro
super :)
Keep smashing them out like that mate and you won't be using that Flex DA much 👌
Gunman - Are you taking your primers/toners & turning them upside down for awhile before putting them on the mixing bank ??? We here at PPG have to turn the cans upside down and then put them on the shaker for 10 minutes before we put them on the bank -- then we have to do at least a 10 min mix..!!.. They all settle these days & the reasons curdle/bind up.
Yes, I always get the apprentice to put them on the shelf upside down, the thing that helps that die back most is thinning it out more but I always avoid messing with the recommended ratios where possible so I don't like doing that.
Come back to Glasurit! We miss you.
PPG is garbage 😆
What PSI do you spray base coat and what PSI do you spray clear coat
29psi or close to for both. However, I'll drop it to 20 or so when doing a colour blend to stop the colour floating too far.
@@TheGunmanChannel thank you so much I love watching your videos and I have learned a lot I love to paint it seems I have a difficult spraying basecoat but I am good at clear coat I was spraying base coat at 20 psi I will try to raise it to 29
I was taught to spray that way. Love your work
Do shops usually have junk paint that they throw out. I don’t care about the color or even any mixtures, all I want it for is practice. It’s too cold to paint a car where I live, so I I figured I could at least practice. I’m also open to any ideas about mixing anything that would simulate paint, without damaging my gun. If anyone has any other ideas for practicing please let me know. Thanks
I practice with just the gun. Go over the panels to practice keeping an even distance and a steady speed and to work out the best way to do a job before I start. You can use just thinners to get your spray pattern right. Otherwise just buy some cheap acrylic lacquer and practice with it. Make sure you have good PPE .
Which gun is this?
DeVilbiss GTi pro Gunman edition
That was liquid Silk. Which gun is that?
Gunman edition GTi pro, they're already sold out but hoping to get another run done.
whats the intro music known as?
Ditto
Always did that way. Seems most obvious to me
💕💕
Saludos.Master,mi camiseta.desde Colombia
A bit of the ole in and out- a clockwork orange
Double strain your standox wet on wet and the seedeyness will go away I fought that for months until a veteran tould me that trick
Прикольно! Красить научились!😂😜
That's how I use to do it , is better the other way