Good Video. Impressed. Couple friendly tips. Before sprayfoaming. Back mask all areas about an 1/8 or 1/16 from the edge with tape (about n inch wide tape) Then tape over the foaming area from side to side with a 2" wide piece of tape. Covering all repair areas. this forms a slight dome for the foam to push against to force it into the other foam for you instead of a spreader. It also gives you a surface to press on to push it in more flush like you were doing once it started solidifying. With less mess. This is how i've been doing it and it saves a ton of shaping time and gets good penetration into the old foam and vinyl edging.. Just thought I'd throw it out there for you. 😉👍👍👍
@@6thGearGarage there is nothing stopping you from sanding further at this stage. Just be sure to Wet sand it , you will get better results . Let it dry and reapply your colour.
Same, the 80's an 90's are my favorite era of vehicles. Very different styling between the two, but both are the last decades before vehicles lost their simplicity and became overloaded with electronics.
Hey mate your the person who gave me hope and let me finish my restoration of my 1st gen surf. You make it very easy to follow with great quality . Dash will be next
Wow! That seriously came out fantastic. I've been sweating trying to find a replacement for my 90s truck dash, but after seeing this, I think I'm going to try and fix it instead. Appreciate all the step-by-step you did for it.
Thanks, but I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html This dash has started to crack again because the paint flexed.
@@6thGearGarage if he used jbweld instead of foam to create the base it won't crack. The difference of tensile strength of the foam and filler forces it to give. Paintable silicone or jbweld would be the perfect filler. Also when not needed, it is not necessary to grind down this large of a gap on the cracks
Dude…. Use a heat gun to warm the vinyl…. That’s what upholsterer’s do. I used to work at an upholstery warehouse for 8 years. You use a heat gun (just for a couple seconds at a time) to warm, then you use a roller or a leather shaping tool to help contour the material better. Also, use a Neoprene high contact adhesive. Not any of that spray crap people are recommending. Neoprene high contact adhesive is FOR fabric, vinyl materials that get moved around and touched, bumped, rubbed, hit, kicked all the time….
I don't think he applied the contact cement properly, it needs to be applied to both the vinyl and the dash, allowed to tack up before joining. You suggest neoprene adhesive yet none of the actual professional upholsterers on UA-cam use it. Odd, and they are professionals.
I've seen this done several times and fiberglass and resin filled cloth is also used to cover the dash. I can't remember anyone trying to simulate vinyl for the reason of texturing, it's just a look that is usually liked. Bed liner is used quite often. I think your dash looks great.
Man, this brings back memories. In the late 80's and early 90's we used the spatter paint and "lace" paint on our dashes and doors to match the over-the-top tweed interior fabrics. Nice work
I think this is my favourite new channel. You're the best dude, I really like watching and listening to you work through this stuff - mistakes and all - it's very genuine content. Never stop doing it how you do it brother.
Love the channel, Brother!!! LOVE the way you are not afraid to experiment and learn new things completely live; and the way that you invite comments in your videos (that I have seen) makes the comment sections an absolute treasure trove of expert information! Brilliantly done Sir! Kudos. (I'm sure there are countless people who happen upon one of your videos like this one and think, 'why would I listen to this guy - he's just doing this for the first time'. Or worse yet, bag on you. Boy, are they missing the boat!!!!) Keep doing your good work! You could be the next Bill Nye the Science Guy!!! 👍👍👍
@@6thGearGarage That was my thought as well. I will soon be doing the same job on an old chevy truck dash. I think I'm going to try the vinyl wrap but may do it a little differently. I liked the way you worked the foam in this one. John
To spread the foam or silicone use a ice cube...the only thing silicon or foam wont stick to....Glad to see you held the foam can UPSIDE down this time LOL....Try cutting the foam with a hot blade, seals the surface of the foam after. If you want to glue down vinyl use gel super glue...think that would have helped on the stretch vinyl one, which looks really good...Or you can get a "inclinometer" that covers the depression on my 87 dash...Paid $500 for the last perfect gray one on the planet...Great info...let you make all the mistakes first...lol
It is evident that you were born with a talent many envy, including myself. You are a critical thinker, with an artistic, architectural and engineering eye, all rolled into one human being. You! Most people struggle to achieve one of those talents and you are a master of all these. What an achievement! Your work is not only sophisticated, it is tasteful and the result was absolutely stunning! I'm sure your parents are gushing with pride! In fact, if you could only see the smile on my face, I am damn proud of your work here. If only I can achieve a fraction of the talent you present here! And at the end, your gracious show of appreciation, shows yet another angle of who you are. You are also humble and you have class. If I could give your video a thousand thumbs up, that wouldn't be enough. But you get mine, and I'm just another nobody learning and getting an education through your videos. I also subscribed. Thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge with us. In a world full of haters and offended people you rise high above and shine like a star, and you're not even trying! It is obvious that you are just being you! Again, many thanks!! 💪😎👍
@@6thGearGarage And you can be assured that *there are MANY of us out here that are thinking the same thing * ... just haven't taken the time nor would be able to articulate it as well as AppleJack just did! Kudos to you.
VHT wrinkle plus works good, mainly used on valve covers so its good for heat. We built a new dash bezel out of steel for my friends 66 Beaumont 10 years ago, still looks great and nobody can tell. I also refinished my older BBQ with it, im happy with how it turned out
I used SEM texture coat on my 240sx dash when I did exactly what you're doing. It matched perfectly with the existing texture. I also used their landau black paint which is another great product.
Great video. The only thing I would recommend, if you're open to recommendations, would be to do an initial sanding of the filler when it's in green stage (while it is still in the curing process but not completely solid). It saves a TON of time and effort in sanding.
I'm sure someone else in the comments has already mentioned it, but just in case: a serrated kitchen knife, like a bread knife or for finer work a filet knife, works great for carving expanded foam. The Surform ("cheese grater") tool you used is ideal for shaping - good call there.
@@Notfiveo0”oscillating tool”. Sure, one of those would work. Just need to use it carefully, on the lowest setting. It would move pretty quick on foam. An electric carving knife is traditional for cutting sponge foam for upholstery, also.
Hey, thanks, I have a 83 Mercedes with some minor cracking. It was a Texas car . You have given me the courage to go for it. I figure it is a lot l3ss expensive than replacing the dash OEM. Thanks. Tim
First excellent video. Thanks for posting. I have a cracked dash in my 62 i may attempt to fixintg now. What I've used on some metal to make it match the plastic texture. Was Rocker Guard paint sprayed light from a foot or so. I didn’t fully cover it, so I couldn't see the base. Then, I painted the whole thing in just a colour close paint. Worked well for me, and I didn't need to sand down the texture paint.
That's a great idea, thanks! I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html This dash has started to crack again because the paint flexed.
love the show. I was trying to make the hot rod power tour for the first time this year. Due to engine problems and now waiting on we'll known racing part company to refund my money I will not make the trip. Hope to see you and some of my other favorite UA-camrs I enjoy in the future. and for the people who tell you to quit complaining about knee pain they will change their opinion if the shoe was on the other foot.
I actually liked the look of the spatter paint as is but excellent work! I've got to fix my Jeep's dash and you've given me the courage to jump into it!
@6thGearGarage I appreciate the link! I'm torn on doing vinyl because this is more of an offroad toy than a restoration - and to avoid reflection on the dash I've been considering repairing the crack as you have here, priming it and flocking it. I tend to get a lot of reflection off the hood and dash so flocking the dash and painting the hood flat black are on my list. I may try using stretch fabric we used in car audio instead... we'll see! Thanks for a great video.
@@6thGearGarage You know I've been trying to think of a way to make my armrest have a shape again and using the foam I can make a center arm rest That might make a great video I have the covers but they don't look right after all the padding fell apart
You can use denatured alcohol also. I would have done that before the initial start of repairing the item. If you sand at the end you will push the dirt and grease/oils into the dash then spend time trying to get it out of all the scratches you created by sanding. Great video and thank you.
I did both of mine and wound up using the spray foam, then bondo. I completely bondo’ed the top tray part and it seems to be very strong, I used LVP paint, rattle can, looks great. Going to fix some high points in bondo, and hope for the best.. Thanks for all the info and how it worked out. Best of luck to you!
I am fixing rusted floors in 1985 truck, and rockers. Making all the rockers, cab corners etc. Bought the floor panels but art not that great, looked like the same ones you had. Take care
Excellent work. I have a '67 Buick Special dash that I'm going to tackle this summer. It looks like and it's going to be a nightmare but it has to be done. Where did you get your 4 way stretch dash material.
Now THAT looks dang good. HOPE the 2 different sub-materials expand/contract equally. Only suggestion I can come up with is 2-3-4 coats of gray primer which helps fill in the low areas then sand each until the texture is closer to OEM. 😉👍
Much respect for producing the video. It sure is difficult to get it right. I use JB weld on my 1987 Toyota pickup gray dash in 2 cracks with the dash in place. It worked "ok"
Thanks for watching! I still recommend this method for restoring the dash, as it has held up better in the sun and heat. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
The end result is astonishingly good, almost looks like OEM new. More sanding of the texture coat would make it look even more original, I think. Fantastic work, great video, loved the background music, it was a good choice and perfectly placed back in the background, not too forward not too rear. Great project, presentation, and videography, really appreciate your work. edit, p.s. Im mostly commenting on your work, that was tedious and I think you did a great job. How well the actual chemicals will do I can not say, time will tell, and looking forward to your tests.
In the beginning of this video, I didn’t think you were going to succeed whatsoever. But I have to admit it turned out pretty good. I agree with you. I would’ve sanded down a bit more to get that roughness to go away. Not bad man.
Looks good from here, only thing is paint usually looks good from pictures and videos. It is definitely better than the original cracked one and if available a lot cheaper than new! Good job
@@6thGearGarage I really like the texture paint you used. I have a nice crack in my yj dash from a wrench that just happed to decide to fly one day. Was thinking it should be an easy fix since it’s not padded and I think that texture and paint route is the way to go after fixing it.
Once you spray the foam,take a spray bottle with water in it and spray the foam. Give it a couple minutes to form a skin, wet your spreader and begin spreading. It won’t stick if you keep it wet.
You should look at the SEM line of interior products. SEM texture coating 39853 is great for recreating textured surfaces and SEM interior dye can be mixed to the color code of your interior. SEM has 5 different sheens of clear top coats for the interior dye to match the sheen of your other parts.
Pro tip: If you are spreading the foam use paint thinner so that it won't be so sticky. This will allow you actually shape it nicer. If something is water cleanable or oil base, you use the appropriate solvent.
The repair itself with the spray foam turned out good enough but not convinced about the spatter paint. It probably needed a lot more sanding to get close to the OEM finish. All round a good job though. 👍
looks good. Here are a few tips on perhaps improving the finished look. Spray high build primer over your sanded texture and then sand that down. Should give you a more flat, not as rough finish. You could repeat the process for even more "fill".
I haven't tried the vacuum method, but would like to! I also want to try flocking a dash at some point, as well as making one perfectly smooth and glossy like a late 90's show car, but that one just sounds like a nightmare for my OCD.
Try using a scraper on an oscillating tool to cut the foam. Works great. Fast and easy. Also try mixing a little fiberglass resin with the bondo. Makes it much easier to work with.
@@6thGearGarageyou can get a Baur battery operated 5" DA sander that comes with 3 80grit velcro sanding pads for $24 through Harbor Freight. It does not come with the battery, though they are only like $20 bucks each. I had already previously bought a impact and a quick disconnect mini drill so I already had 2 batterys made by Baur so yeah, they make great tools. Packs of 5 80, 220, 400, etc run 6 bucks each they also sell packs of 15. I bought it to sand down some holes that I filled with fiberglass bondo on my 76 Corvette when I modded it with C6 Corvette mirrors. Worked great. Huge investment on the cheap.
I have a '94 pickup, '88 pickup, and an '87 4Runner -- All 4x4, 5 speed W56, DLX, gray interior, and XtraCab (for the pickups obviously). The '88 and the 4R both have cracked dashes. Been dailying the 4R a bit lately and not sure if I want to attempt repairing the dash cracks cause with my luck, it'll start having issues within 10 years (if not just completely screwing up before even getting it back in the cab lol). Just bought a dash mat on ebay for $38 shipped about 20 minutes ago to at least hide the cracks on the '87's dash, since ultimately even though the '94's dash is uncracked, I still have a dash mat on it to protect it anyway, so I suppose it's functionally not really all that different. Perhaps if this repair proves to hold up for a couple of years, I might give it a shot, but I could totally see myself being content with the dash mat as I've been on my '94 for about 6 years now.
Dash mats are the easiest option, but there are also plastic dash caps that look pretty good when painted to match. They glue right over the cracked dash and you can only really tell they're there around the vent edges.
Wax paper. When squashing your foam into the cracks and when forming bondo. Allow the foam/bondo to flash over before removing the paper. I've had great results with packing Tiger Hair into halfassed rust repair using this method. Durability update? I'm wondering about differing expansion/contraction rates. Looking to fix a Mazda 323 GTX dash.
Great idea!! The paint has started to crack from the sun. I need to do a full update video. I would recommend this method instead: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage An update... I'm not removing my dash pad, doing what I can in the car. There are several cracks and a flat area on the passenger side top is all chipped out. Spent a couple of hours with super glue and baking soda working on the cracks today. The glue reacts with the sub-foam, creates a great deal of heat, softens the foam and plastic covering. I was able to mash the raised edges down flat while the glue set up and then fill the gap with soda/glue. I may cover a fitted piece of 1/8 inch plywood with vinyl and cement it in the flat area. Try the super glue on a scrap dash, you mey like it.
Too intense of a project for me to tackle, but it was so enticing that I had to watch it till the end. I ended up subscribing to your channel. Dude, use a mask when doing these projects you don’t want your lungs fried.
Nice job! I am by no means a professional, but the bondo file should be used before the filler is completely cured. You can use very little pressure, and the difference of the texture between the bondo and the original surface is easier to feel, so there's less gouging into the original dash. An electric "jitterbug" sander makes the job way quicker too, and you can attach a vacuum to the sander to reduce mess.
It looks good, the finish is quite decent...i'm going to be working in a Fj40 dash...i think is gonna be easier since the most part os flat...thanks for the video.
the texture is clearly not vinyl but looks great. This method could be used for other interior parts too. For a shine on your vinyl wrap could you use a protection spray?
Looking back, I should have sanded this one a little more to get the texture closer to the oem vinyl texture. I haven't tried applying any shine product on the wrapped dash in case I decide to repaint it in the future. The silicones/oils in the product will soak in and repel paint.
I havent watched your vinyl wrap video yet but i will say when using conatct adhesives you need to speay both components and give them a few minutes to gas off before adhering them together. You'll end up with a stronger hold and less/no air bubbles underneath
6:37 As you are not using the foam for it's intended purpose, you could cut the straw down to a more manageable length. Also, I would try two coats of foam, like when you do bondo. The first skimpy coat is smashed and mooshed to contact all of the substrate and the second is the fluffy filler. Easier to work with dried foam that has not been molested. More uniform to cut and sand.
@@6thGearGarage Thanks! Wait! I just had yet another flash of brilliance. If you gently wrap it in cling wrap just after the second foamy coat you may get a more uniform version of the stronger outer layer you were looking for. (Sure I'm stoned. Why?)
Thanks! My $$ is on the vinyl wrapped one for the durability test, only because the vinyl will hide any tiny cracks. I feel like any tiny cracks will be more visible on this one, but we will find out!
I did a comparison on the very first dash repair video, and the body filler was actually a little more flexible than the fiberglass resin. I wanted some flex to allow for expanding and contracting in the sun/shade. I think either would have worked though.
I might try this with my 1991 Camaro dash pad, but I think it might work better by using clear packing tape over the cracks after cutting out the channel then secure the edges of the tape with more duct tape and spray the foam into the channel under the tape might help with density and adhesion let it fully cure then remove the tape shape and prep for the texture process
That's a really good idea to save time on trimming it down. I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
Using The Word Restoration is a OXIMORON in this video. He literally built a house into a tree! Basically, He REMANUFACTURED That piece. In essence he has made something New, Combining the parts of the Old with something New! He has downplayed his skills, This Man does Good Work!
I actually did filler only on my first dash resto: ua-cam.com/video/S-UPaYTFBlE/v-deo.html It took some extra time, but in the end the dash itself held up well. (the vinyl covering was a different story.)
Looks good but that was a lot of work. I’m interested in the long term results. I’m considering a dash and door panels from FAMAA, the prices aren’t terrible and door panels look surprisingly well done for the price
Definitely a lot of work with all the body filler. Less work if you're better at bondo than I am lol. I've seen the pics of the FAMAA stuff and it looks really nice. I read a while back that some of the fiberglass dashes have fitment issues around the vents, but I haven't read anything bad recently, so maybe they modified their molds to fix that. I would definitely buy a set of their door panels.
I had an idea while watching. What if you tightly wrap the dash with shrink wrap atleast around the work area after you grind the cracks out. Then puncture the wrap with the foam straw and fill the void that way. I imagine you will get a really good fill of the cracks especially if you get that wrap on tight and a a few layers.
Good Video. Impressed. Couple friendly tips. Before sprayfoaming. Back mask all areas about an 1/8 or 1/16 from the edge with tape (about n inch wide tape) Then tape over the foaming area from side to side with a 2" wide piece of tape. Covering all repair areas. this forms a slight dome for the foam to push against to force it into the other foam for you instead of a spreader. It also gives you a surface to press on to push it in more flush like you were doing once it started solidifying. With less mess. This is how i've been doing it and it saves a ton of shaping time and gets good penetration into the old foam and vinyl edging.. Just thought I'd throw it out there for you. 😉👍👍👍
Great idea…. Thanks!
Everyone just keeps getting better! This one definitely seems the best so far just needed slightly more sanding
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
@@6thGearGarage there is nothing stopping you from sanding further at this stage. Just be sure to Wet sand it , you will get better results . Let it dry and reapply your colour.
@@wirefeed3419 I'm going to see if it holds up in the heat/cold test first. If it cracks, I will sand it down and try some other products.
defini tely a big fan of 80's style and engineering. Simple, efficient, comfortable to maintain blocky and flat yet stylish.
Same, the 80's an 90's are my favorite era of vehicles. Very different styling between the two, but both are the last decades before vehicles lost their simplicity and became overloaded with electronics.
1974 Celica with a 3SGE or a 2AR-FE in it. 93 Ranger 2WD 4Cyl, super underrated terms of maintenance & reliability.
Hey mate your the person who gave me hope and let me finish my restoration of my 1st gen surf. You make it very easy to follow with great quality . Dash will be next
Great to hear! Let’s see how this one holds up… 👍
Wow! That seriously came out fantastic. I've been sweating trying to find a replacement for my 90s truck dash, but after seeing this, I think I'm going to try and fix it instead. Appreciate all the step-by-step you did for it.
Thanks, but I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html This dash has started to crack again because the paint flexed.
@@6thGearGarage if he used jbweld instead of foam to create the base it won't crack. The difference of tensile strength of the foam and filler forces it to give. Paintable silicone or jbweld would be the perfect filler. Also when not needed, it is not necessary to grind down this large of a gap on the cracks
Dude…. Use a heat gun to warm the vinyl…. That’s what upholsterer’s do. I used to work at an upholstery warehouse for 8 years. You use a heat gun (just for a couple seconds at a time) to warm, then you use a roller or a leather shaping tool to help contour the material better. Also, use a Neoprene high contact adhesive. Not any of that spray crap people are recommending. Neoprene high contact adhesive is FOR fabric, vinyl materials that get moved around and touched, bumped, rubbed, hit, kicked all the time….
Try RH Adhesives HH-66 Vinyl cement , and for other fabrics and leather use Neoprene Adhesive like Rh s18
I don't think he applied the contact cement properly, it needs to be applied to both the vinyl and the dash, allowed to tack up before joining. You suggest neoprene adhesive yet none of the actual professional upholsterers on UA-cam use it. Odd, and they are professionals.
I've seen this done several times and fiberglass and resin filled cloth is also used to cover the dash. I can't remember anyone trying to simulate vinyl for the reason of texturing, it's just a look that is usually liked. Bed liner is used quite often. I think your dash looks great.
Man, this brings back memories. In the late 80's and early 90's we used the spatter paint and "lace" paint on our dashes and doors to match the over-the-top tweed interior fabrics. Nice work
I remember that style and liked it. Mini trucks are starting to make a comeback, maybe we'll see that again soon!
@@6thGearGarage I used the "wrinkle paint" on a lot of things back in the '70's and 80's.
@@MikeyMack303 I used that on a valve cover once.
Great job! Thank you for taking the time to go through all the options with the paint and texture options.
I think this is my favourite new channel. You're the best dude, I really like watching and listening to you work through this stuff - mistakes and all - it's very genuine content. Never stop doing it how you do it brother.
Thank you!! This is my passion and as of this year, my full time gig.
Love the channel, Brother!!! LOVE the way you are not afraid to experiment and learn new things completely live; and the way that you invite comments in your videos (that I have seen) makes the comment sections an absolute treasure trove of expert information! Brilliantly done Sir! Kudos. (I'm sure there are countless people who happen upon one of your videos like this one and think, 'why would I listen to this guy - he's just doing this for the first time'. Or worse yet, bag on you. Boy, are they missing the boat!!!!)
Keep doing your good work! You could be the next Bill Nye the Science Guy!!! 👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words! I don't ever plan on stopping :)
بعد از مدتها یه ویدیو فوقالعاده تماشا کردم،سالم و خوشحال باشید همیشه
Thank you, Norm Macdonald. We miss you.
I think it looks great but I am looking forward to seeing the dash after the extreme heat and cold test. Nice Job! John
You and me both... any small cracks will show up easier than they would on the vinyl covered dash.
@@6thGearGarage That was my thought as well. I will soon be doing the same job on an old chevy truck dash. I think I'm going to try the vinyl wrap but may do it a little differently. I liked the way you worked the foam in this one. John
To spread the foam or silicone use a ice cube...the only thing silicon or foam wont stick to....Glad to see you held the foam can UPSIDE down this time LOL....Try cutting the foam with a hot blade, seals the surface of the foam after. If you want to glue down vinyl use gel super glue...think that would have helped on the stretch vinyl one, which looks really good...Or you can get a "inclinometer" that covers the depression on my 87 dash...Paid $500 for the last perfect gray one on the planet...Great info...let you make all the mistakes first...lol
Have you ever tried a dongometer for this type of application?
Great ideas, thanks!!
Silicone and wetting your finger works just fine
@@steveadams5190 not true
Yow this guy has a great sense of humor… and the video is great as well along with how he explains
It is evident that you were born with a talent many envy, including myself. You are a critical thinker, with an artistic, architectural and engineering eye, all rolled into one human being. You! Most people struggle to achieve one of those talents and you are a master of all these. What an achievement! Your work is not only sophisticated, it is tasteful and the result was absolutely stunning! I'm sure your parents are gushing with pride! In fact, if you could only see the smile on my face, I am damn proud of your work here. If only I can achieve a fraction of the talent you present here! And at the end, your gracious show of appreciation, shows yet another angle of who you are. You are also humble and you have class. If I could give your video a thousand thumbs up, that wouldn't be enough. But you get mine, and I'm just another nobody learning and getting an education through your videos. I also subscribed. Thank you for sharing your talent and knowledge with us. In a world full of haters and offended people you rise high above and shine like a star, and you're not even trying! It is obvious that you are just being you!
Again, many thanks!!
💪😎👍
Well thank you so much! That may be the best comment I have ever received. I enjoyed reading every word. Comments like yours keep me going 👍👍😀
@@6thGearGarage And you can be assured that *there are MANY of us out here that are thinking the same thing * ... just haven't taken the time nor would be able to articulate it as well as AppleJack just did! Kudos to you.
VHT wrinkle plus works good, mainly used on valve covers so its good for heat. We built a new dash bezel out of steel for my friends 66 Beaumont 10 years ago, still looks great and nobody can tell. I also refinished my older BBQ with it, im happy with how it turned out
Wrinkle plus is great. I use it on a lot of small parts around the engine just makes the engine bay pop!
I have used the wrinkle finish on a valve cover before and it’s a great product. Great idea for a dash, thanks!
I have used Wrinkle Plus. On a 70 chevelle dash. It was beautiful! Until the car we wrecked😢
I like the background music, good choices.
thank you!
waiting for the torture test! this looks awesome. My plan is to fiberglass the whole thing after I remove all the old shrinking vinyl.
The master of surf dash
I used SEM texture coat on my 240sx dash when I did exactly what you're doing. It matched perfectly with the existing texture. I also used their landau black paint which is another great product.
I’ve heard good things about SEM. This dash has not held up well in the sun.
@@6thGearGarage I use some of their Comercial products in spayguns at work as well. I definitely recommend trying it.
I'll do a little more sanding on texture for my project but u still got a beautiful job done.
Great work.
For trimming foam try using a metal hacksaw blade without any kind of handle. It should contour well on flat areas.
I just used a flap wheel in a grinder.
Great video. The only thing I would recommend, if you're open to recommendations, would be to do an initial sanding of the filler when it's in green stage (while it is still in the curing process but not completely solid). It saves a TON of time and effort in sanding.
I'm sure someone else in the comments has already mentioned it, but just in case: a serrated kitchen knife, like a bread knife or for finer work a filet knife, works great for carving expanded foam. The Surform ("cheese grater") tool you used is ideal for shaping - good call there.
Great idea on the knife, thanks!
An electric knife works great.
Or maybe one of those back and forth multipurpose wood cutting tools?
@@Notfiveo0”oscillating tool”. Sure, one of those would work. Just need to use it carefully, on the lowest setting. It would move pretty quick on foam. An electric carving knife is traditional for cutting sponge foam for upholstery, also.
Hey, thanks, I have a 83 Mercedes with some minor cracking. It was a Texas car . You have given me the courage to go for it. I figure it is a lot l3ss expensive than replacing the dash OEM. Thanks. Tim
I was sceptical...but the results are bloody good. Well done chap!
First excellent video. Thanks for posting. I have a cracked dash in my 62 i may attempt to fixintg now. What I've used on some metal to make it match the plastic texture. Was Rocker Guard paint sprayed light from a foot or so. I didn’t fully cover it, so I couldn't see the base. Then, I painted the whole thing in just a colour close paint. Worked well for me, and I didn't need to sand down the texture paint.
That's a great idea, thanks! I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html This dash has started to crack again because the paint flexed.
love the show. I was trying to make the hot rod power tour for the first time this year. Due to engine problems and now waiting on we'll known racing part company to refund my money I will not make the trip. Hope to see you and some of my other favorite UA-camrs I enjoy in the future. and for the people who tell you to quit complaining about knee pain they will change their opinion if the shoe was on the other foot.
Thank you and Good luck!
I actually liked the look of the spatter paint as is but excellent work! I've got to fix my Jeep's dash and you've given me the courage to jump into it!
I recommend wrapping with vinyl, as it holds up better in the sun: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
@6thGearGarage I appreciate the link! I'm torn on doing vinyl because this is more of an offroad toy than a restoration - and to avoid reflection on the dash I've been considering repairing the crack as you have here, priming it and flocking it. I tend to get a lot of reflection off the hood and dash so flocking the dash and painting the hood flat black are on my list. I may try using stretch fabric we used in car audio instead... we'll see! Thanks for a great video.
@@EyebrowsMahoney I set this dash in the hot sun and the paint was starting to crack after a couple of days. Flocking would look great.
I think you did a great job with both I'm very impressed I'm restoring 1st gen 4Runners and this helps a lot
Thanks!
@@6thGearGarage You know I've been trying to think of a way to make my armrest have a shape again and using the foam I can make a center arm rest That might make a great video I have the covers but they don't look right after all the padding fell apart
@@mikewicker1944 that’s an excellent idea. 👍
You can use denatured alcohol also. I would have done that before the initial start of repairing the item. If you sand at the end you will push the dirt and grease/oils into the dash then spend time trying to get it out of all the scratches you created by sanding. Great video and thank you.
Hey 6th, looks great, I am getting ready to do 2 of them, the 3rd restoration was a charm, great job!!!!
Thanks for sending the links and showing your progression.
It's not holding up well, I need to do an update.
I did both of mine and wound up using the spray foam, then bondo. I completely bondo’ed the top tray part and it seems to be very strong, I used LVP paint, rattle can, looks great. Going to fix some high points in bondo, and hope for the best.. Thanks for all the info and how it worked out. Best of luck to you!
I am fixing rusted floors in 1985 truck, and rockers. Making all the rockers, cab corners etc. Bought the floor panels but art not that great, looked like the same ones you had. Take care
i've been doing this for years, yours is real close
Thank you, I'm curious to see how it will hold up.
Love the approach too - spraying the texture on.
I think you should sand the top coat with 200 grit to almost eliminate the high points and respray.
Thanks! If this one holds up through the heat and cold, I may sand it some more and repaint it to get the texture a little more smooth
@@6thGearGarage That is a great approach.
If you mix a little fiberglass resin with your bondo, it will thin it out, make it smoother, and extend your working time.
Thanks, I will remember that tip!
Looks good. A whole lot better then when you started.
Thanks, luckily I could only make it better from where it started!
Excellent work. I have a '67 Buick Special dash that I'm going to tackle this summer. It looks like and it's going to be a nightmare but it has to be done. Where did you get your 4 way stretch dash material.
I found it on Amazon because no local stores carried it: amzn.to/3vykgPv
@@6thGearGarage Thank you so much and have a blessed day.
third time's a charm! I like your video 'cause It doesn't look too professional
Thank you!
Now THAT looks dang good. HOPE the 2 different sub-materials expand/contract equally.
Only suggestion I can come up with is 2-3-4 coats of gray primer which helps fill in the low areas then sand each until the texture is closer to OEM. 😉👍
Now that primer idea is good! I have some filler primer that would work great for that.
@@6thGearGarage NOOOOoooo...
I used it and it fills in WAY TO MUCH. Take it in layers.
Much respect for producing the video. It sure is difficult to get it right. I use JB weld on my 1987 Toyota pickup gray dash in 2 cracks with the dash in place. It worked "ok"
I haven't tried JB on one yet... good idea!
Great finish on that texture and color 👍🏼
Thanks for watching! I still recommend this method for restoring the dash, as it has held up better in the sun and heat. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
The end result is astonishingly good, almost looks like OEM new. More sanding of the texture coat would make it look even more original, I think. Fantastic work, great video, loved the background music, it was a good choice and perfectly placed back in the background, not too forward not too rear. Great project, presentation, and videography, really appreciate your work.
edit, p.s. Im mostly commenting on your work, that was tedious and I think you did a great job. How well the actual chemicals will do I can not say, time will tell, and looking forward to your tests.
Thanks 👍 this was a long project and I’ll be happy if it holds up in the heat!
Might try this on my '06 Solara I just purchased this week! But for now I am JUST getting the basics done (Spark plugs and such.)
I recommend this method, as it has held up better in the sun: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage you recommend the stretch vinyl method over the texture coating method?
@@casttony 100%
That looks amazing!!! You did a great job
Thanks!
Looks really good! I'm a little bit tempted to try that on my dash one of these days. Loved the cake joke btw, had me laughing xD
In the beginning of this video, I didn’t think you were going to succeed whatsoever. But I have to admit it turned out pretty good. I agree with you. I would’ve sanded down a bit more to get that roughness to go away. Not bad man.
Looks good from here, only thing is paint usually looks good from pictures and videos. It is definitely better than the original cracked one and if available a lot cheaper than new! Good job
This is fantastic!! Going to do this on my truck at some point, film it and reference/link your video!
Thanks! But let’s see how it holds up first 😁
That looks just like what I remember from 80's style dashboards.
Not bad. Next time, just use SEM vinyl paint whenever you paint a dash pad like this. I've used it before and it works wonders!
Thanks, I'll look into SEM next time!
I would use a flush-cut saw to remove the excess foam.
Great video. Nice work. It certainly looks much better than it did. Thanks for sharing with us.
Thanks for watching!
That looks awesome Brian. Gave me some ideas for my YJ and Mustang dash.
Let’s see how it holds up through the cold and heat before you get started 😁
@@6thGearGarage I really like the texture paint you used. I have a nice crack in my yj dash from a wrench that just happed to decide to fly one day. Was thinking it should be an easy fix since it’s not padded and I think that texture and paint route is the way to go after fixing it.
Looks great 👍 like you said, a little more sanding would probably have taken it a bit closer to the original, but in any case, great result!
Once you spray the foam,take a spray bottle with water in it and spray the foam. Give it a couple minutes to form a skin, wet your spreader and begin spreading. It won’t stick if you keep it wet.
Great tip, thanks!!
You should look at the SEM line of interior products. SEM texture coating 39853 is great for recreating textured surfaces and SEM interior dye can be mixed to the color code of your interior. SEM has 5 different sheens of clear top coats for the interior dye to match the sheen of your other parts.
I've heard a lot of good things about SEM in the comments and will be trying their paint on the next dash.
You are very patient person. It is a good restoration job but the texture is still rough.
Thanks and I agree I should have sanded it down a little further 👍
To date one of the worst products I've ever got on my hands, great stuff. One of the few things I'll wear surgical gloves for, that and acid.
dyou did a perfect job to save that dash man !!
Thank you!
turn hat blade in the coping saw 90 degrees, that way your metal up brace is pointing upwards when you trim
great tips, thanks!
Good job! I think I would have sanded the texture a little more, but otherwise, this looks like a success. Thanks for posting.
Thanks! After the fact I wish I had sanded it a little more as well
Pro tip: If you are spreading the foam use paint thinner so that it won't be so sticky. This will allow you actually shape it nicer. If something is water cleanable or oil base, you use the appropriate solvent.
Good tip, thanks!
I think it looks good. I do want to see it after the heat test and also after a year installed on the vehicle.
Thanks, I don’t know if it will hold up as well as the vinyl wrapped dash, but we will see.
Not too shabby, I like it.
Thanks!
The repair itself with the spray foam turned out good enough but not convinced about the spatter paint. It probably needed a lot more sanding to get close to the OEM finish. All round a good job though. 👍
looks good. Here are a few tips on perhaps improving the finished look. Spray high build primer over your sanded texture and then sand that down. Should give you a more flat, not as rough finish. You could repeat the process for even more "fill".
That's a great idea!! Thanks
I’d like to see another vinyl wrap test but with using a vacuum bag setup to see if that makes a difference with gluing down the contours
I haven't tried the vacuum method, but would like to! I also want to try flocking a dash at some point, as well as making one perfectly smooth and glossy like a late 90's show car, but that one just sounds like a nightmare for my OCD.
My opinion is..Hell Yeah… is looks muy bueno! Great job brother
So if you leave the foam dry for 5 minutes then spray water on it , you can form it and it won't be as sticky. Use a bread knife to cut it
Great tip, thanks!!
You can also use spray rattle can adhesives (like 3M 77) as a texture intermediate coat. It has unique rugged texture.
I've used 3m Super 77 before, it's very sticky, quality adhesive! I don't know how well paint would bond to it though.
Try using a scraper on an oscillating tool to cut the foam. Works great. Fast and easy. Also try mixing a little fiberglass resin with the bondo. Makes it much easier to work with.
Great Idea! I recently bought one of those oscillating tools for my other channel. I'll give it a try!
@@6thGearGarageyou can get a Baur battery operated 5" DA sander that comes with 3 80grit velcro sanding pads for $24 through Harbor Freight. It does not come with the battery, though they are only like $20 bucks each. I had already previously bought a impact and a quick disconnect mini drill so I already had 2 batterys made by Baur so yeah, they make great tools. Packs of 5 80, 220, 400, etc run 6 bucks each they also sell packs of 15. I bought it to sand down some holes that I filled with fiberglass bondo on my 76 Corvette when I modded it with C6 Corvette mirrors. Worked great. Huge investment on the cheap.
I have a '94 pickup, '88 pickup, and an '87 4Runner -- All 4x4, 5 speed W56, DLX, gray interior, and XtraCab (for the pickups obviously). The '88 and the 4R both have cracked dashes. Been dailying the 4R a bit lately and not sure if I want to attempt repairing the dash cracks cause with my luck, it'll start having issues within 10 years (if not just completely screwing up before even getting it back in the cab lol).
Just bought a dash mat on ebay for $38 shipped about 20 minutes ago to at least hide the cracks on the '87's dash, since ultimately even though the '94's dash is uncracked, I still have a dash mat on it to protect it anyway, so I suppose it's functionally not really all that different. Perhaps if this repair proves to hold up for a couple of years, I might give it a shot, but I could totally see myself being content with the dash mat as I've been on my '94 for about 6 years now.
Dash mats are the easiest option, but there are also plastic dash caps that look pretty good when painted to match. They glue right over the cracked dash and you can only really tell they're there around the vent edges.
Please keep doing these videos their awesome, also i think this is the best one out of all of em only thing is it has too much texture
I agree, the more I look at it the more I wish it was a little more smooth.
Thats a great job i like the texture looks great
Thanks! Unfortunately, it did not hold up well in the summer heat: ua-cam.com/video/Y5LP-fkGLhA/v-deo.html
Wax paper. When squashing your foam into the cracks and when forming bondo. Allow the foam/bondo to flash over before removing the paper. I've had great results with packing Tiger Hair into halfassed rust repair using this method.
Durability update? I'm wondering about differing expansion/contraction rates. Looking to fix a Mazda 323 GTX dash.
Great idea!! The paint has started to crack from the sun. I need to do a full update video. I would recommend this method instead: ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage An update... I'm not removing my dash pad, doing what I can in the car. There are several cracks and a flat area on the passenger side top is all chipped out. Spent a couple of hours with super glue and baking soda working on the cracks today. The glue reacts with the sub-foam, creates a great deal of heat, softens the foam and plastic covering. I was able to mash the raised edges down flat while the glue set up and then fill the gap with soda/glue. I may cover a fitted piece of 1/8 inch plywood with vinyl and cement it in the flat area.
Try the super glue on a scrap dash, you mey like it.
Too intense of a project for me to tackle, but it was so enticing that I had to watch it till the end. I ended up subscribing to your channel. Dude, use a mask when doing these projects you don’t want your lungs fried.
If that's too intense then you don't do projects lol😂
Nice job! I am by no means a professional, but the bondo file should be used before the filler is completely cured. You can use very little pressure, and the difference of the texture between the bondo and the original surface is easier to feel, so there's less gouging into the original dash. An electric "jitterbug" sander makes the job way quicker too, and you can attach a vacuum to the sander to reduce mess.
Thanks, that will make the next dash much easter/faster!
The bondo file is called a cheese grater. Use it when the bondo is set up to about the hardness of hard cheese. It's about 10 percent as much work.
I think it looks fabulous.
Thanks!
I personally would sand more, but that sure does look good!
It looks good, the finish is quite decent...i'm going to be working in a Fj40 dash...i think is gonna be easier since the most part os flat...thanks for the video.
Unfortunately it is not holding up well in the sun. The second dash that I vinyl wrapped is still doing great.
the texture is clearly not vinyl but looks great. This method could be used for other interior parts too. For a shine on your vinyl wrap could you use a protection spray?
Looking back, I should have sanded this one a little more to get the texture closer to the oem vinyl texture. I haven't tried applying any shine product on the wrapped dash in case I decide to repaint it in the future. The silicones/oils in the product will soak in and repel paint.
I did one with bumper repair and rapter came out great be a few years. Ill try the fome next time
Good to know... looking forward to seeing how this holds up!
Fish Filet knife works well for cutting that and getting into tight corners
Good idea!
I love your videos! Keep making these please 🙌🍻👍
Thanks! Will do!
I havent watched your vinyl wrap video yet but i will say when using conatct adhesives you need to speay both components and give them a few minutes to gas off before adhering them together. You'll end up with a stronger hold and less/no air bubbles underneath
I like the brush on contact cement by Weldwood. It held up great in the heat test.
6:37 As you are not using the foam for it's intended purpose, you could cut the straw down to a more manageable length. Also, I would try two coats of foam, like when you do bondo. The first skimpy coat is smashed and mooshed to contact all of the substrate and the second is the fluffy filler. Easier to work with dried foam that has not been molested. More uniform to cut and sand.
Good idea!
@@6thGearGarage Thanks! Wait! I just had yet another flash of brilliance. If you gently wrap it in cling wrap just after the second foamy coat you may get a more uniform version of the stronger outer layer you were looking for. (Sure I'm stoned. Why?)
I like it the best and it seems it’s going to be the most durable of them all. But we will see right? Thank you for the great video
Thanks! My $$ is on the vinyl wrapped one for the durability test, only because the vinyl will hide any tiny cracks. I feel like any tiny cracks will be more visible on this one, but we will find out!
When spraying the foam, put a sleave over the plastic so it's more riged and easier to control.
Have you thought about using fiberglass resin over the foam and dash to seal the foam and fill in the factory texture?
Like foam the dash sand it smooth reform if necessary roll on a coat or two of fiberglass resin across the entire dash and sand it smooth
That looks really good man.
I did a comparison on the very first dash repair video, and the body filler was actually a little more flexible than the fiberglass resin. I wanted some flex to allow for expanding and contracting in the sun/shade. I think either would have worked though.
That looks great, love it.
Thank you!
I may have to do that same thing on my 83 and my 77 model Chevrolet trucks dashs.
For texture Ive used waterproofing membrane through an airless sprayer, leaves a leather like texture
Excellent idea, thanks!
I might try this with my 1991 Camaro dash pad, but I think it might work better by using clear packing tape over the cracks after cutting out the channel then secure the edges of the tape with more duct tape and spray the foam into the channel under the tape might help with density and adhesion let it fully cure then remove the tape shape and prep for the texture process
That's a really good idea to save time on trimming it down. I recommend covering in vinyl like this video though, because it will hold up longer in the sun. ua-cam.com/video/XB9GKLRHYNM/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage yeah the Camaro would be really easy to cover in vinyl maybe even do it in carbon fiber would look pretty sweet I think
Using The Word Restoration is a OXIMORON in this video. He literally built a house into a tree! Basically, He REMANUFACTURED That piece. In essence he has made something New, Combining the parts of the Old with something New! He has downplayed his skills, This Man does Good Work!
Well thank you so much! I like to show others that anything is possible!
Wish there was more like you. Have a Good Day.@@6thGearGarage
I wonder whether it would have been easier and less risk of error by eliminating the foam application and going straight to filler.
I actually did filler only on my first dash resto: ua-cam.com/video/S-UPaYTFBlE/v-deo.html It took some extra time, but in the end the dash itself held up well. (the vinyl covering was a different story.)
Looks good but that was a lot of work. I’m interested in the long term results. I’m considering a dash and door panels from FAMAA, the prices aren’t terrible and door panels look surprisingly well done for the price
Definitely a lot of work with all the body filler. Less work if you're better at bondo than I am lol. I've seen the pics of the FAMAA stuff and it looks really nice. I read a while back that some of the fiberglass dashes have fitment issues around the vents, but I haven't read anything bad recently, so maybe they modified their molds to fix that. I would definitely buy a set of their door panels.
LOL feckstone, welcome to the 80's my guy!
I remember! I didn't start driving until the mid 90's and remember seeing it on the dashboards of some vehicles then and thinking it was awesome.
many a chevy blazer was covered in it.@@6thGearGarage
also the trick to the bedliner is distance. up close will be thicker and smoother.for texture further away and "flick"@@6thGearGarage
Do you think putting primer over splatter paint would have helped “smooth” it?
Maybe some filler primer would have helped fill in the low areas.
I had an idea while watching. What if you tightly wrap the dash with shrink wrap atleast around the work area after you grind the cracks out. Then puncture the wrap with the foam straw and fill the void that way. I imagine you will get a really good fill of the cracks especially if you get that wrap on tight and a a few layers.
That's a really good idea!