Camera on yourself while walking around (for no reason), with no shirt, talking up garden variety gooseneck fixtures like they're the hippest new joint on the scene - love the commitment to full, basic French-showerdom, my dude.
Fantastic video…..need to get mounting boxes for the electricians working on my new build. The siding has been down for months and wanted to see how this was done on existing siding. I have very large coach lights on the double garage and wanted to understand how these would be installed before I go to source them. This was the best video on UA-cam…your job was so neat and straight forward. Thanks so much!🌈💕
I am a licensed electrician and you absolutely need a “box” I use round but have seen other contractors use single gangs. If the light has a completely enclosed box then it is not necessary, such a a can light, wafer light, bath exhaust fan etc. rule of thumb, if you take light out of package and wires are hanging out you need a “j box”
Completely respect that. I have to tell you, in all my experience inspecting properties, hiring contractors to put up exterior lights, replacing/repairing exterior lights myself, I have never seen a box for an exterior light. All I’ve seen (in newer homes) are J blocks. Would be great if you can share code reference for my knowledge. BTW what purpose does the box service when the wiring is completely enclosed inside the fixture trim as in this case? Also, this was attached to a header, so you would have to carve out the space for the box into the header, seems illogical for this application, no? Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I'm an electricians apprentice so I'm curious about this as well. It may depend on the state that you're working in? My boss has me put in round old work boxes through the plywood in between studs on outside lights. Even new construction we stub wire out and put box in later. Following for answer.
Totally, agree 100%. If I had 1/2” ply, I would have certainly added the boxes. I suppose I could have used slim boxes? Tuck them behind the j-block. I will try that next time, although I still don’t understand the reasoning behind it. I mean in this application. It’s already boxed in by the j-block vinyl and the trim from fixture.
@@n.d.4192I’m not an online inspector calling out code references just to prove a pointless point. He had tips in this video that helped me on my home project 3 years ago.
Im doing this job today but a box extension should be used off your current house box. These kits protrude out the exact width of a box extension. Not using one could void your house insurance. Excellent video though and thanks for the trick with the Vinyl siding and being able to pull out one sheet to screw this down. Cheers!!
Thanks for the video as it helped me properly install the mounting box on vinyl siding. A few other steps I took was to pre-cut an opening in the mounting box to have a metal 1-gang box sit flush up against the inside. I then traced that opening onto the wood so the j-box can slip partially to the interior of the garage with the electrical being fed through it. I am installing sconces on either side of my garage and do not trust simply attaching them to the vinyl mounting box. When it gets hot outside I would imagine there may some warping of the vinyl, especially if a metal sconce is weighing down on it. This way the lights are secured to the j-box and they are secured to structural wood. They won't be affected by outdoor temperatures and the vinyl mounting box won't be affected by the weight of the lights on hot days. It's an extra step but worth it, IMO.
I like it! Nice work. I did use a long screw to go through the j block and into the header board. I too thought the block it self will not support the weight. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Great video to get an idea of what to do. When Installing mounting blocks under siding you don’t want them snug to the edge of your siding. If snug your vinyl may warp or wave over time due to not having room to float when expanding and contracting. When placing your J-block cover on you don’t want it to pinch your siding which is why the hole needs to be larger as well. I’d also highly recommend using flashing tape around the top and sides, not the bottom. Just a few things I’d highly recommend when installing.
Thanks so much for the feedback. Exactly why I make videos, I want to share my knowledge and also learn from others. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment Applying silicone or caulking to seal it defies the floating ability of the vinyl siding as it expands and shrinks due to weather change as it would lock it into place . A driving rain would get in around the back of the j block that's why its very important to use tuck tape on the flange to your house wrap .
@@TrueGritDevelopment absolutely! Do you happen to have photos/video of the transition thru the wall? Primarily from the inside?I have been searching but find it hard to believe that it's just a hole the wire runs thru, no insulation, caulking, foam, or anything ( in all the videos I've found, not just yours 👊)
No video/photo but I can explain. In this case I punched through the band board. The band board is typically 2x10 followed by 1/2 ply, house wrap then siding. I accessed the band board from the garage ceiling (cut a 2x2 section of dry wall). You may find bat insulation there, so remove it and drill through the board. Replace the insulation once finished installing the fixture. I hope that answered your question.
Thanks for the video. I'm a homeowner installing a new light after my house was resided, and didn't know the configuration of the box they left me. You're video helped me understand how it went in. You made a good point about not overcutting the vinyl at the corners to prevent future cracking. I usually handle that on any material by drilling a small hole at each corner. It takes a little time , but guarantees the cut or crack wont run past the corner. In fact, you can often stop a crack in any material from continuing by drilling a hole at the end. That's what they did on the Liberty Bell.
Thank you for this video. Just what I was looking for. My problem is I am replacing a light fixture on my vinyl siding that has been sided ON TOP of wood slat siding. So I have a bit of Macgyvering to do and sourcing out where to get the J block.Thanks again. Great video. Very well explained.
Thanks for watching and supporting, much appreciated. You should be able to mount the J block right on that woods. Drill through the other end for your wire and you should be good to go. Good luck.
Just FYI, you need to leave a gap between your siding edge and the white box. Usually 1/4 inch the whole way around. Allows for expansion and contraction of the vynyl siding.
@@darrylmarsh8252 no, because it's covered. And the backing edge is covered by the siding. And if it does, the tyvec will guide it down to the drip edge. And also the siding has holes in the bottom to allow any water to drip out.
Leave yourself a little bit more space around the mounting block to siding interface for thermal growth/shrinkage. Your cut was spot on for a tight fit and I commend you for that, but there needs to be a bit of "wiggle room" between the members at the sides (not really much at top and bottom). As others have stated, there should be a junction box behind the mounting block. Maybe not required, but I always install a rubber grommet in the mounting block hole to protect the wires a bit more. An alternative to a junction box + mounting block is if you buy the blocks with the boxes built in already. Anyway, good work overall. Cheers!
Great video though as others said, you do need a proper electrical box for the connections to be made. In this instance you could use one of the shallow circular boxes screwed into plywood to meet code.
Thanks for the feedback. Will certainly try and squeeze that in next time. I think the band joist threw me for a loop in that project. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Should have cut siding a little more for expansion/contraction of siding with temperature/sun/shade changes and flipped siding up or removed the two pieces so as to caulk behind box flange and used nail slots on outer edge. You put those screws right where water channels, might leak or collect moisture.
Thanks for watching! Caulking will certainly not hurt. Honestly, I’ve seen hundreds of these j blocks and never noticed or seen caulking. This is not to say it’s not necessary, but I don’t think it’s required either. My house was house wrapped before installing the siding too. Appreciate the input and thanks for sharing the knowledge 👍.
Tommy Jones is correct. Temperature changes will cause buckling if there’s not more space left between the siding and block. 1/4” to 1/2” on each side will do just fine. Great video.
Thank you for watching. Easy, will pull the trim off and check what I have in space. Since I installed in Summer, I think I should be fine. If I need more room, I’ll trim it back. Thanks guys for the feedback.
Also need a round junction box, a siding block that matches siding color, tuck tape, galv siding nails, and caulk. A siding puller helps too (only $5) if you have high-quality stiff siding. Leave 1/8” expansion gaps around the box. If it’s a retrofit, you may need a little house wrap for watertight j box. Otherwise nice job!
Wow. FINALLY a video where I can see the whole process! You seriously just taught me this. I'm at a loss for words. You showed us how to open the siding from different angles and even how to screw in the J block after its tucked into the siding... Thank you!! After the box is installed, do you ever find a need to run silicone caulk around it, to keep any water from finding its way in down the line?
Thank you so much for the kind comments and feedback, I am glad you found the video helpful. I applied silicone around the base of the fixture that I attached to the J block. I did not silicone the j block itself. I personally didn’t find it necessary. It would be very difficult for any water to get into the wiring. I’ve also been on many inspections and jobs (contractors who worked on my projects) where these J blocks weren’t siliconed. With that said, if your location is prone to heavy water, suck as near a spigot, water fountain…etc. you may want to take additional measures to ensure the fixture stays dry. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Didn’t know the naked and afraid show is incorporating home handyman projects..BTW I would glue (caulk)the box then screw it later so as not to struggle to keep it in alignment with the cut out .. also as long as there is no other blocks on that same run I would cut out a little oversized and caulk perimeter (except bottom)to keep water from infiltrating so there is no need to be so exact in fitting the cut out opening and siding can still expand in both directions away from the block unless it’s on the very end of a 12ft piece a half inch expansion may cause a bucket
Hi, once I installed the fixture I ran a bead of silicone caulk around it. I also taped my connections for added insulation. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
Thanks for your feedback. This was mounted on a band board, so there was sufficient stability there, but perhaps a bit snug on the siding. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
I was really curious to see how you put in the screws at the top of the flange - but you either just didn't film it or didn't see the need for screws at the top? Anyway, thanks for the video - it is helpful!
I don’t believe I used the top flange, I ensured I had enough screws in there and obviously onto solid wood, that thing isn’t going anywhere. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
This light was installed through a band board, only way to add a box would be outside the band board, which wouldn’t look right. Instead, I contained the wiring inside the J block and the fixture. Ensured everything was wired right and taped with electric tape. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thank you! And thanks for watching, I hope your project goes smoothly. Not sure how I can upload picture to UA-cam. In this garage I had an existing junction box, so I fed my new lines through the new siding, pulled them inside the garage (I made cuts in the ceiling to fish them back to junction box), tied them inside the box. If not, assuming you have lights in your garage, you can tap into that line before the switch, then splice off of that to a junction box at a desired location for the outdoor lights, make sense? Let me know.
That’s ok, you will need to find the stud and use it as your anchoring piece. I would imagine you will want to center the j block to that stud, make sense?
This was put through the band joist, didn’t want to carve out a 2x4 piece out of it. The electrical connections were made inside the fixture mounting base with electrical tape and the base was sealed for added protection.
im litterly wanting the same lights where did you get them please. and the light fixture was it screwed to the plastic jbox or were screws long enough to to to the backing sheathing.
I can’t remember where I got the lights, but I usually shop Amazon and/or Wayfare for inexpensive fixtures. Type in goose neck outdoor sconce. I used long screws to tie into the backing. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
thank you so much for taking your time to response. im a diy to the bone and i just done building a big shop from the gown up now i got to do lighting and than the vinyl siding. @@TrueGritDevelopment
I assume you mean the fixture itself? The fixture is rated for outdoor use and once installed I went back with silicone caulk and caulked all around it. Also, whenever you are working with outdoor electric connections, always use electric tape and wire nuts together. In the event water does reach inside the fixture the tape and wire nuts will prevent it from making contact with the bare wires. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Few ppl asked the same. I didn’t, but you certainly can if you like. I did silicone caulk the base of the fixture however. I didn’t see the need personally. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Don't do this! I almost did this and my father in-law who is a electrician said no you need an old work electric box that has knockout holes for the wire to flow through.
Thanks for the feedback. This wire was going through a band board and I didn’t want to cut out a chunk of it to accommodate the box. I ensured the wire was secure and my connections inside the fixture base were tight and taped. If this installation was going through plywood, I would have had the option of using a box. With that said, I don’t claim to be an electrician and this is a DIY channel. The main objective of the video is to show how to install a fixture on vinyl siding. I do appreciate your feedback and will continue to improve and learn. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Are you a licensed electrician (I think not)....US electrical code states that every fixture must be attached to & have an approved metal or plastic box to contain wiring/connections. Sure, you can do it this way....but if there's ever a fire or other issue then you can be sure the insurance company will not pay out since the install did not follow proper safety codes.
Not a licensed electrician nor do I claim to be one. However, the electrical connection in this fixture is tightly secured within the metal base of the fixture AND within the J block itself. There is no contact with the wood structure. I suppose you can use a shallow electrical box behind the J block. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@TrueGritDevelopment Incorrect. Electrical box needs to be flush with siding block. Fixture must attach to box itself. Been doing this for 28 years. This is totally against the NEC electrical code and promoting things like this is how fires are started. Please inform yourselves. Fixture flange MUST be mounted to electrical box with no space. We normally cut the siding block so that the Electrical box is exposed. Great video just may want to add this very important step to it. I have seen where vinyl siding has burned and melted. You may get away with this on stone or brick though although believe it or not it's still against code even with those materials.
This video is very helpful. My husband went to out a new light up but the previous homeowner had just cut the siding and somehow made it fit the light base. The new light is a different shape. It’s been frustrating trying to figure this out. The pieces of siding to be fiddled with are between two windows with siding trim. Is the trim just a pop off and then pop the 3 pieces of siding where the existing hole is to shimmy a mounting block into? Thanks for posting and any advice on this positioning.
Glad you found the video helpful. To be clear, the siding between the two windows is one piece and you don’t have two overlapping pieces where you can pop up the siding like I did in my video, correct? The J channel around the window is nailed on, so you can’t take that off, but perhaps you can pull back the siding? You may need a piece of plastic or wood to pry the siding off of the channel. Be careful not to damage the siding. Let me know how that works.
@@TrueGritDevelopment thanks for the reply! The strips between the windows are about 3 feet long and each end tucks under the siding trim around the windows. The siding feels pretty solidly locked in. I’m thinking I’m going to have to leave my eyesore until I can get someone who knows what they’re doing. I am too worried I will break something. Thank you!
Hi, someone else commented on that before, no I didn’t actually. If any water were to come in, it will drip around n down the plastic flange. I do have house wrap behind to prevent any water from contacting wood structure. With that said there is no harm in sealing. Honestly, I’ve seen many of these J blocks installed w/out any caulking or sealant, so it’s completely up to you. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I replaced two light fixtures on the wall along my home entrance. The wall consists of wood sidings and I have to use caulk to seal the gap to prevent water to get in (and any small pest too). Not comfortable to see gaps here.
Vinyl expands and contacts side ingd should be at least half inch all around the box,and you should have put a wooden backer behind your Vinyl box. Make a video on something simple l making a cutting board
Yep, directly to j-block. No additional boxes needed. I used a longer screw to ensure I hit the wood behind the block for a more secure setup. Silicon around the fixture and you’re good to go. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I understand. Once you remove the siding, you should have a clear view of how the J block was attached. You should be able to u screw it and replace it, it’s the same process. The only difference is you might have a u shaped channel where the siding terminates, but that shouldn’t impact the job so much, it’s removable if need be. Why are you replacing it?
Yea, that sounds like it needs replacing. I would start by removing the siding, cut the caulking, unscrew the current J block and go from there. I will make a video if I run into this issue though, thanks for suggesting.
No pilot holes and I believe I used 2” exterior screws. For the fixture hardware mount I used 3” screws. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
No outlet box in this situation because I had to go through a band board. I made sure I stapled the wire and made my connections inside the fixture then sealed it. I also taped all my connections. If you’re doing this through sheathing like plywood, you can use an old work electrical box then the J block, makes sense?
Thank you! No need to cut. Use a long screw through the box and into the wood behind it whether it is 1/2” ply or header board...etc. the box it self will not hold the weight of the fixture. Hope that answers the question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thanks bud. I had to go through the band joist, so no electrical box for this install. However, I made sure the electrical wire was secured and tucked inside the water proof fixture. I further sealed the fixture. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Hi, so the flange is designed to protect against water penetration; however, you may like to use silicone caulk anywhere you feel there is a gap. When water comes down and makes first contact with the box, it will eventually run down the sides of the box and out. It is unlikely that water will flow inward and down the siding. With that said, caulking doesn’t hurt. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thanks for watching. As far as I know as long as the wires are enclosed from the back (in this case the J block) and housed in a box (in this case the fixture box) you can use the J block without an electrical box behind it. Also, the fixtures are UL rated. I would never skip a junction box on an outlet though or just hang a wall fixture without a box to mount it onto. The wires must have backing and enclosure and the whole setup should be secured to a wall/ceiling or whatever. Thanks for the input, I like discussions with like minded people.
All good. One of the main reasons I make my videos is to learn from others. A few ppl mentioned the jbox before. I punched through the band board, so didn’t want to cut a 2x4 for the box. I fed the wire through, stapled it in place and taped my connections inside the light fixture base, which is water sealed tight. In hind sight I could have used a shallow jbox perhaps. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
I will be mounting a 200 Amp meter base with a disconnect to a mobile home with vinyl siding. Is there something similar to this that I can use for this project?
Yes, they make meter j blocks. Amazon got them or try a building supplier in your area, they are cheaper than big retailers. Only thing is I don’t think they come with a trim top, so you might want to grab a thing of J channel. You will have to peel a lot more siding (no big deal) to have enough room to nail/screw j block then channel. Make sure siding is warm for optimal flexibility. It’s winter here in PA, so not gd time for detailed siding work. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
No problem! Check these out: www.homedepot.com/p/100674376 www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/siding-accessories/15-3-x-16-3-meter-base-mounting-block/14900001/p-1444449697359.htm Alcoa Home Exteriors METER PW Meter Base J-Block www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZBGEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_w2i5Fb10XYGT3
You mean where the vinyl siding contacts the J block? Or around the light fixture? If it’s the latter, absolutely silicone caulking. As far as the J block goes, I never had any issues and I don’t think I’ve seen them caulked before. With that said, I don’t see any harm in caulking. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Yes, the fixture will come with a metal mount and that gets screwed onto the vinyl box and wood behind it. I used long enough screws to hit the wood and hold that mount tight. You then attach your fixture on the mount just like any light. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and supporting.
you probably dont care but if you are stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my gf for the last couple of weeks xD
Stapled my wire, taped connection and tucked inside the base of an exterior rated fixture that was subsequently sealed with silicon. I wanted the fixture flush with siding and punched through rim joist. Like another viewer suggested, a block with a box includes may have been a gd alternative. Otherwise a traditional J box would not have worked here. Anyway, it’s a sealed tight connection between plastic J block and fixture with no exposure to wood.
First of all PUT on a shirt, 2nd good job. I mean you could do anything you like but when you sell your house and inspector says, ohhh no jbox WTF, and we'll either you fix all the issues or buyer just moves on. DO IT ONCE DO IT BY CODE. Dosent mean this guy did not do a good job, just did the easiest way possible for an unexpirianced homeowner. That's all.
Why do people post dangerous "How-To" videos? You are REQURED to use a weather tight electrical box to make all connections to any outside lighting. Passing a wire through the wall is dangerous, so please do NOT use this video as a way to do your job.
You are absolutely correct. All wired connections should be contained. This video was specifically addressing the addition of a J block to vinyl siding BTW. Anyway, in this case the connection was made inside a ETL listed exterior fixture, wire nutted of course and taped. I would have loved to use a box, but the fixture needed to be mounted on the band joist and carving out for an electrical box was not an option. Once the fixture was mounted tight, silicon sealant was applied around the base to further protect it from water intrusion. I put these videos to share my knowledge and learn from others. Thanks for watching.
tell me; is there a circular metal or plastic fixture box behind the vinyl box? I am suspecting no as you gave it just1 second of time when you cried whooopie. I think you cheated. tell me I am wrong
Camera on yourself while walking around (for no reason), with no shirt, talking up garden variety gooseneck fixtures like they're the hippest new joint on the scene - love the commitment to full, basic French-showerdom, my dude.
Excelnt video. Everything needed, no rambling cruft.
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
he is an amateur.....on par with my 6th grader
Fantastic video…..need to get mounting boxes for the electricians working on my new build. The siding has been down for months and wanted to see how this was done on existing siding. I have very large coach lights on the double garage and wanted to understand how these would be installed before I go to source them. This was the best video on UA-cam…your job was so neat and straight forward. Thanks so much!🌈💕
I love to hear that! Glad you found it helpful.
I am a licensed electrician and you absolutely need a “box” I use round but have seen other contractors use single gangs. If the light has a completely enclosed box then it is not necessary, such a a can light, wafer light, bath exhaust fan etc. rule of thumb, if you take light out of package and wires are hanging out you need a “j box”
Completely respect that. I have to tell you, in all my experience inspecting properties, hiring contractors to put up exterior lights, replacing/repairing exterior lights myself, I have never seen a box for an exterior light. All I’ve seen (in newer homes) are J blocks. Would be great if you can share code reference for my knowledge. BTW what purpose does the box service when the wiring is completely enclosed inside the fixture trim as in this case? Also, this was attached to a header, so you would have to carve out the space for the box into the header, seems illogical for this application, no? Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I'm an electricians apprentice so I'm curious about this as well. It may depend on the state that you're working in? My boss has me put in round old work boxes through the plywood in between studs on outside lights. Even new construction we stub wire out and put box in later. Following for answer.
All good, but like the guy said, where's the box and since there isn't one, you screw the light to the header?
Totally, agree 100%. If I had 1/2” ply, I would have certainly added the boxes. I suppose I could have used slim boxes? Tuck them behind the j-block. I will try that next time, although I still don’t understand the reasoning behind it. I mean in this application. It’s already boxed in by the j-block vinyl and the trim from fixture.
Yes, I used a long enough screw through the j-block and into the header.
Thanks for the demonstration. I was clueless
Glad to help
Man thank you! I was fixing to start taking my vinyl siding apart bc of overthinking. Honestly thank you and God Bless you my brother!
Glad it was helpful man, I appreciate it. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thank god for UA-cam and videos like this!
And thank you for your positive feedback, it motivates us to keep putting out videos ✊🏼
Thanks for the video! As an electrician I’ve never had to retro fit on vinyl yet so this is helpful. 👍🏼
Thank you sir! And coming from you - an electrician - makes it all that much more appreciated. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
An electrician who didn't say he needed a J-box?
@@n.d.4192I’m not an online inspector calling out code references just to prove a pointless point. He had tips in this video that helped me on my home project 3 years ago.
Im doing this job today but a box extension should be used off your current house box. These kits protrude out the exact width of a box extension. Not using one could void your house insurance.
Excellent video though and thanks for the trick with the Vinyl siding and being able to pull out one sheet to screw this down. Cheers!!
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate the feedback.
Thank you. This is exactly what I need to do but had no idea how to even wrap my head around it. You make it look easy!
Thank you! Start early on a dry day and you’ll have plenty of time to get it done. Good luck 👍🏼
Thanks for the video as it helped me properly install the mounting box on vinyl siding. A few other steps I took was to pre-cut an opening in the mounting box to have a metal 1-gang box sit flush up against the inside. I then traced that opening onto the wood so the j-box can slip partially to the interior of the garage with the electrical being fed through it. I am installing sconces on either side of my garage and do not trust simply attaching them to the vinyl mounting box. When it gets hot outside I would imagine there may some warping of the vinyl, especially if a metal sconce is weighing down on it. This way the lights are secured to the j-box and they are secured to structural wood. They won't be affected by outdoor temperatures and the vinyl mounting box won't be affected by the weight of the lights on hot days. It's an extra step but worth it, IMO.
I like it! Nice work. I did use a long screw to go through the j block and into the header board. I too thought the block it self will not support the weight. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Great video to get an idea of what to do.
When Installing mounting blocks under siding you don’t want them snug to the edge of your siding. If snug your vinyl may warp or wave over time due to not having room to float when expanding and contracting.
When placing your J-block cover on you don’t want it to pinch your siding which is why the hole needs to be larger as well.
I’d also highly recommend using flashing tape around the top and sides, not the bottom.
Just a few things I’d highly recommend when installing.
Thanks so much for the feedback. Exactly why I make videos, I want to share my knowledge and also learn from others. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment Applying silicone or caulking to seal it defies the floating ability of the vinyl siding as it expands and shrinks due to weather change as it would lock it into place . A driving rain would get in around the back of the j block that's why its very important to use tuck tape on the flange to your house wrap
.
@@andrewkanis3383 thanks for the feedback Andrew!
Thank you so much, I'll be doing the same thing soon once I get my siding block. Your video is the most informative and easiest to follow IMo.
Thank you so much, I am glad you found it helpful & good luck with your project.
Excellent Video! I needed this. I have to replace a couple of J blocks that the previous home owner "abused" when he put up outside lights.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Thank you very much for this video. Very informational.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching 👊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment absolutely! Do you happen to have photos/video of the transition thru the wall? Primarily from the inside?I have been searching but find it hard to believe that it's just a hole the wire runs thru, no insulation, caulking, foam, or anything ( in all the videos I've found, not just yours 👊)
No video/photo but I can explain. In this case I punched through the band board. The band board is typically 2x10 followed by 1/2 ply, house wrap then siding. I accessed the band board from the garage ceiling (cut a 2x2 section of dry wall). You may find bat insulation there, so remove it and drill through the board. Replace the insulation once finished installing the fixture. I hope that answered your question.
Please don’t fall please don’t fall lol
Thank you for the instructional video. It was super helpful!
Haha…those 6’ aluminum ladders are wobbly AH. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Great instructions! I feel like a pro already. Lol
Haha…glad you found it helpful 👊🏼
Thanks for the video. I'm a homeowner installing a new light after my house was resided, and didn't know the configuration of the box they left me. You're video helped me understand how it went in. You made a good point about not overcutting the vinyl at the corners to prevent future cracking. I usually handle that on any material by drilling a small hole at each corner. It takes a little time , but guarantees the cut or crack wont run past the corner. In fact, you can often stop a crack in any material from continuing by drilling a hole at the end. That's what they did on the Liberty Bell.
Thanks for the tip! I absolutely agree. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏽
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
Thanks for the help! I'm gonna do one tomorrow.
Awesome! Good luck 👊🏼
Very informative thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, in addition, needs sealant on the sides for rain, so the water will not create damage inside, otherwise thumbs-up.
100%. Didn’t capture that on video, but certainly sealed around the base of the fixture. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Hey man, i really appreciate this video.
Glad you liked it!
I'm a woman. Just cruising thru youtube when I saw this guy. My, oh my. Now y would u skip thru the 1st part of this? I'm subscribing!
Awesome video, thanks. Feel much more confident about doing this now!
You bet! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏽
You only want to do this when siding is warm and flexible. Other wise it will crack.. Great video..
Thanks for watching and supporting, good point 👍🏼
Thanks! Great tutorial.
You’re welcome! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏽
Thanks for sharing! I need to retrofit a mounting block to existing siding.
Glad you found it helpful. I plan to make another video adding block to stucco siding. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Excellent video - very helpful!
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thank you for this video. Just what I was looking for. My problem is I am replacing a light fixture on my vinyl siding that has been sided ON TOP of wood slat siding. So I have a bit of Macgyvering to do and sourcing out where to get the J block.Thanks again. Great video. Very well explained.
Thanks for watching and supporting, much appreciated. You should be able to mount the J block right on that woods. Drill through the other end for your wire and you should be good to go. Good luck.
Well done, great detail!
Thanks for the positive feedback, much appreciated 👊🏼
Very good demo. I’ll be using your video for future use. Thanks.
Thank you sir. Appreciate the support ✊🏼
You got lucky removing the vinyl that easy
Sometimes you get lucky on the job 😀. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching 👊🏼
You have a new subscriber! Appreciate the detailed video brother!
Much appreciated buddy 👊🏽
Just FYI, you need to leave a gap between your siding edge and the white box. Usually 1/4 inch the whole way around. Allows for expansion and contraction of the vynyl siding.
Indeed. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
Also makes getting those screws in a little easier
Won't water get back in there???
@@darrylmarsh8252 no, because it's covered. And the backing edge is covered by the siding. And if it does, the tyvec will guide it down to the drip edge. And also the siding has holes in the bottom to allow any water to drip out.
Leave yourself a little bit more space around the mounting block to siding interface for thermal growth/shrinkage. Your cut was spot on for a tight fit and I commend you for that, but there needs to be a bit of "wiggle room" between the members at the sides (not really much at top and bottom). As others have stated, there should be a junction box behind the mounting block. Maybe not required, but I always install a rubber grommet in the mounting block hole to protect the wires a bit more. An alternative to a junction box + mounting block is if you buy the blocks with the boxes built in already. Anyway, good work overall. Cheers!
Thanks for the feedback. The block with the box is a nifty idea. Thanks for the tip 👊🏼
I would cut 1/4" gap around the box for vinyl expansion and that also gives some room for the screws.
Good point. I have been doing that going forward. Thanks for your feedback 👊🏼
That's the most gangsta ish I've ever seen.
Lol everyone has a little gangsta in’em.
It's really helpful! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Nice job sir!
Thank you sir! Appreciate the positive feedback. Please like and share 👊🏽
@@TrueGritDevelopment Just right. Explained it to make it easily understandable, and the video complements the explanation!
No caulking needed? Thanks!
Sure, I silicone caulked around the fixture base once I was finished.
@@TrueGritDevelopment 👍 thanks for clarifying!
Great video though as others said, you do need a proper electrical box for the connections to be made. In this instance you could use one of the shallow circular boxes screwed into plywood to meet code.
Thanks for the feedback. Will certainly try and squeeze that in next time. I think the band joist threw me for a loop in that project. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Thank you, this is helpful.
I am glad, thanks for watching and for your support!
clever idea. No need to caulk?
Great video !! Thanks for the help
Thank you for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thanks for the video. Exactly what I needed!
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Awesome vid man
Much appreciated, thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Should have cut siding a little more for expansion/contraction of siding with temperature/sun/shade changes and flipped siding up or removed the two pieces so as to caulk behind box flange and used nail slots on outer edge. You put those screws right where water channels, might leak or collect moisture.
Thanks for watching! Caulking will certainly not hurt. Honestly, I’ve seen hundreds of these j blocks and never noticed or seen caulking. This is not to say it’s not necessary, but I don’t think it’s required either. My house was house wrapped before installing the siding too. Appreciate the input and thanks for sharing the knowledge 👍.
Tommy Jones is correct. Temperature changes will cause buckling if there’s not more space left between the siding and block. 1/4” to 1/2” on each side will do just fine. Great video.
Thank you for watching. Easy, will pull the trim off and check what I have in space. Since I installed in Summer, I think I should be fine. If I need more room, I’ll trim it back. Thanks guys for the feedback.
That's why after you screw the blocks in place you use tuck tape to seal it First bottom then sides then top like a shingle
Also need a round junction box, a siding block that matches siding color, tuck tape, galv siding nails, and caulk. A siding puller helps too (only $5) if you have high-quality stiff siding. Leave 1/8” expansion gaps around the box. If it’s a retrofit, you may need a little house wrap for watertight j box. Otherwise nice job!
Wow. FINALLY a video where I can see the whole process!
You seriously just taught me this. I'm at a loss for words.
You showed us how to open the siding from different angles and even how to screw in the J block after its tucked into the siding... Thank you!!
After the box is installed, do you ever find a need to run silicone caulk around it, to keep any water from finding its way in down the line?
Thank you so much for the kind comments and feedback, I am glad you found the video helpful. I applied silicone around the base of the fixture that I attached to the J block. I did not silicone the j block itself. I personally didn’t find it necessary. It would be very difficult for any water to get into the wiring. I’ve also been on many inspections and jobs (contractors who worked on my projects) where these J blocks weren’t siliconed. With that said, if your location is prone to heavy water, suck as near a spigot, water fountain…etc. you may want to take additional measures to ensure the fixture stays dry. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
I'll bet you were at the jan.6 insertion, you believe that Jerk, you'll believe anything.stay away from tool's you might get hurt
Didn’t know the naked and afraid show is incorporating home handyman projects..BTW I would glue (caulk)the box then screw it later so as not to struggle to keep it in alignment with the cut out .. also as long as there is no other blocks on that same run I would cut out a little oversized and caulk perimeter (except bottom)to keep water from infiltrating so there is no need to be so exact in fitting the cut out opening and siding can still expand in both directions away from the block unless it’s on the very end of a 12ft piece a half inch expansion may cause a bucket
Lol @Nakedamdafraid good one. Great tip glueing first, would have certainly helped 👍🏽
Does water penetrate behind that?
Hi, once I installed the fixture I ran a bead of silicone caulk around it. I also taped my connections for added insulation. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
needed to leave a quarter inch gap for expansion, and a backer board for stability when mounting a light.
Thanks for your feedback. This was mounted on a band board, so there was sufficient stability there, but perhaps a bit snug on the siding. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
How did you mount light without a J box
Used a long screw into the wood beam.
Thanks.
You're welcome
I'm also licensed, derekpierce is right, this light needs a box
Yep, going forward if I’m working with a rim joist. I’ll look for the J block with the shallow electric box attached.
I was really curious to see how you put in the screws at the top of the flange - but you either just didn't film it or didn't see the need for screws at the top? Anyway, thanks for the video - it is helpful!
I don’t believe I used the top flange, I ensured I had enough screws in there and obviously onto solid wood, that thing isn’t going anywhere. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Did you need to add a box for all the wiring connections? Where did all that go??
This light was installed through a band board, only way to add a box would be outside the band board, which wouldn’t look right. Instead, I contained the wiring inside the J block and the fixture. Ensured everything was wired right and taped with electric tape. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Great video. Could you tell us which power source you tapped into. Or post a picture of the electrical wire within the garage?
Thank you! And thanks for watching, I hope your project goes smoothly. Not sure how I can upload picture to UA-cam. In this garage I had an existing junction box, so I fed my new lines through the new siding, pulled them inside the garage (I made cuts in the ceiling to fish them back to junction box), tied them inside the box. If not, assuming you have lights in your garage, you can tap into that line before the switch, then splice off of that to a junction box at a desired location for the outdoor lights, make sense? Let me know.
What if the siding was installed without wood sheeting behind it?
Just water proofing, insulation, and studs
That’s ok, you will need to find the stud and use it as your anchoring piece. I would imagine you will want to center the j block to that stud, make sense?
Might want to leave 1/4” gap on sides around the box. No electrical box? 🤔
This was put through the band joist, didn’t want to carve out a 2x4 piece out of it. The electrical connections were made inside the fixture mounting base with electrical tape and the base was sealed for added protection.
im litterly wanting the same lights where did you get them please. and the light fixture was it screwed to the plastic jbox or were screws long enough to to to the backing sheathing.
I can’t remember where I got the lights, but I usually shop Amazon and/or Wayfare for inexpensive fixtures. Type in goose neck outdoor sconce. I used long screws to tie into the backing. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
thank you so much for taking your time to response. im a diy to the bone and i just done building a big shop from the gown up now i got to do lighting and than the vinyl siding. @@TrueGritDevelopment
That’s awesome. I bet u learned a ton from doing a big job like that.
Doesnt this need flashing to stay waterproof?
I assume you mean the fixture itself? The fixture is rated for outdoor use and once installed I went back with silicone caulk and caulked all around it. Also, whenever you are working with outdoor electric connections, always use electric tape and wire nuts together. In the event water does reach inside the fixture the tape and wire nuts will prevent it from making contact with the bare wires. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Did you caulk the top and sides?
Few ppl asked the same. I didn’t, but you certainly can if you like. I did silicone caulk the base of the fixture however. I didn’t see the need personally. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Don't do this! I almost did this and my father in-law who is a electrician said no you need an old work electric box that has knockout holes for the wire to flow through.
Thanks for the feedback. This wire was going through a band board and I didn’t want to cut out a chunk of it to accommodate the box. I ensured the wire was secure and my connections inside the fixture base were tight and taped. If this installation was going through plywood, I would have had the option of using a box. With that said, I don’t claim to be an electrician and this is a DIY channel. The main objective of the video is to show how to install a fixture on vinyl siding. I do appreciate your feedback and will continue to improve and learn. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Since you didn't have an electrical box, did you use longer screws for the light (into the header)?
Yes, you are correct. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Are you a licensed electrician (I think not)....US electrical code states that every fixture must be attached to & have an approved metal or plastic box to contain wiring/connections. Sure, you can do it this way....but if there's ever a fire or other issue then you can be sure the insurance company will not pay out since the install did not follow proper safety codes.
Not a licensed electrician nor do I claim to be one. However, the electrical connection in this fixture is tightly secured within the metal base of the fixture AND within the J block itself. There is no contact with the wood structure. I suppose you can use a shallow electrical box behind the J block. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@TrueGritDevelopment i think there should be a junction box. But nice video!
@@TrueGritDevelopment Incorrect. Electrical box needs to be flush with siding block. Fixture must attach to box itself. Been doing this for 28 years. This is totally against the NEC electrical code and promoting things like this is how fires are started. Please inform yourselves. Fixture flange MUST be mounted to electrical box with no space. We normally cut the siding block so that the Electrical box is exposed. Great video just may want to add this very important step to it. I have seen where vinyl siding has burned and melted. You may get away with this on stone or brick though although believe it or not it's still against code even with those materials.
This video is very helpful. My husband went to out a new light up but the previous homeowner had just cut the siding and somehow made it fit the light base. The new light is a different shape. It’s been frustrating trying to figure this out. The pieces of siding to be fiddled with are between two windows with siding trim. Is the trim just a pop off and then pop the 3 pieces of siding where the existing hole is to shimmy a mounting block into? Thanks for posting and any advice on this positioning.
Glad you found the video helpful. To be clear, the siding between the two windows is one piece and you don’t have two overlapping pieces where you can pop up the siding like I did in my video, correct?
The J channel around the window is nailed on, so you can’t take that off, but perhaps you can pull back the siding? You may need a piece of plastic or wood to pry the siding off of the channel. Be careful not to damage the siding. Let me know how that works.
@@TrueGritDevelopment thanks for the reply! The strips between the windows are about 3 feet long and each end tucks under the siding trim around the windows. The siding feels pretty solidly locked in. I’m thinking I’m going to have to leave my eyesore until I can get someone who knows what they’re doing. I am too worried I will break something. Thank you!
No problem. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing, your support is appreciated ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment done!
Did you caulk the siding that was cut? I don't recall seeing it...
Hi, someone else commented on that before, no I didn’t actually. If any water were to come in, it will drip around n down the plastic flange. I do have house wrap behind to prevent any water from contacting wood structure. With that said there is no harm in sealing. Honestly, I’ve seen many of these J blocks installed w/out any caulking or sealant, so it’s completely up to you. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I replaced two light fixtures on the wall along my home entrance. The wall consists of wood sidings and I have to use caulk to seal the gap to prevent water to get in (and any small pest too). Not comfortable to see gaps here.
Vinyl expands and contacts side ingd should be at least half inch all around the box,and you should have put a wooden backer behind your Vinyl box. Make a video on something simple l making a cutting board
Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Did you secure the light fixture bracket directly to the j-block? No j-box needed?
Yep, directly to j-block. No additional boxes needed. I used a longer screw to ensure I hit the wood behind the block for a more secure setup. Silicon around the fixture and you’re good to go. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I need to replace that and this helped a little can you make a video on how to replace one
Thanks for watching. You are looking to replace the fixture of the whole J block?
@@TrueGritDevelopment yes its the square block you show us to install
I understand. Once you remove the siding, you should have a clear view of how the J block was attached. You should be able to u screw it and replace it, it’s the same process. The only difference is you might have a u shaped channel where the siding terminates, but that shouldn’t impact the job so much, it’s removable if need be. Why are you replacing it?
@@TrueGritDevelopment because there is calk stuck all over it and it is a mess
Yea, that sounds like it needs replacing. I would start by removing the siding, cut the caulking, unscrew the current J block and go from there. I will make a video if I run into this issue though, thanks for suggesting.
How long were the screws you used to connect to house and did you drill pilot holes first?
No pilot holes and I believe I used 2” exterior screws. For the fixture hardware mount I used 3” screws. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
What type of mount did you use to mount the lights? Is this piece the mount?
The vinyl block is called a J block. It’s a universal mount. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment I think so. So there isn’t an outlet box. Just a cross bar or fixture plate?
No outlet box in this situation because I had to go through a band board. I made sure I stapled the wire and made my connections inside the fixture then sealed it. I also taped all my connections. If you’re doing this through sheathing like plywood, you can use an old work electrical box then the J block, makes sense?
Good video my man! Do you have to cut the vinyl box to add the hardware or do you just screw it all the way through?
Thank you! No need to cut. Use a long screw through the box and into the wood behind it whether it is 1/2” ply or header board...etc. the box it self will not hold the weight of the fixture. Hope that answers the question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Great video! Did your Siding block have an electrical box already built into it, or did you mount an electrical box separately?
Thanks bud. I had to go through the band joist, so no electrical box for this install. However, I made sure the electrical wire was secured and tucked inside the water proof fixture. I further sealed the fixture. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Need a box to have code compliance
Are there gaps between the sidings and the light fixture ? In this video, I believe there are gaps.
Hi, so the flange is designed to protect against water penetration; however, you may like to use silicone caulk anywhere you feel there is a gap. When water comes down and makes first contact with the box, it will eventually run down the sides of the box and out. It is unlikely that water will flow inward and down the siding. With that said, caulking doesn’t hurt. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Is it up to code to not have a j-box behind the fixture? Seems to me it can’t be code to put the joints into that box that you put up
Thanks for watching. As far as I know as long as the wires are enclosed from the back (in this case the J block) and housed in a box (in this case the fixture box) you can use the J block without an electrical box behind it. Also, the fixtures are UL rated. I would never skip a junction box on an outlet though or just hang a wall fixture without a box to mount it onto. The wires must have backing and enclosure and the whole setup should be secured to a wall/ceiling or whatever. Thanks for the input, I like discussions with like minded people.
No reason to flash the J-Box?
If you have access, go for it, it won’t hurt.
You need a j-box and you can't cut the vinyl that close because the siding needs to expand and contract. The flange will cover the gap.
👍🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment Wasn't trying to sound like a know it all, I've certainly made my fair share of mistakes over the years and will make more.
All good. One of the main reasons I make my videos is to learn from others. A few ppl mentioned the jbox before. I punched through the band board, so didn’t want to cut a 2x4 for the box. I fed the wire through, stapled it in place and taped my connections inside the light fixture base, which is water sealed tight. In hind sight I could have used a shallow jbox perhaps. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
I will be mounting a 200 Amp meter base with a disconnect to a mobile home with vinyl siding. Is there something similar to this that I can use for this project?
Yes, they make meter j blocks. Amazon got them or try a building supplier in your area, they are cheaper than big retailers. Only thing is I don’t think they come with a trim top, so you might want to grab a thing of J channel. You will have to peel a lot more siding (no big deal) to have enough room to nail/screw j block then channel. Make sure siding is warm for optimal flexibility. It’s winter here in PA, so not gd time for detailed siding work. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you so much for your response. Do you have a link to what you are referring? I’m in northern Mississippi. Thanks
No problem! Check these out:
www.homedepot.com/p/100674376
www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/siding-accessories/15-3-x-16-3-meter-base-mounting-block/14900001/p-1444449697359.htm
Alcoa Home Exteriors METER PW Meter Base J-Block www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZBGEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_w2i5Fb10XYGT3
@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you so much for your help! Your videos are really awesome!
Anytime my friend! Thank you so much 👍🏼 happy holidays!
"once you break it, you are done"
Got to be careful!
No caulk?
You mean where the vinyl siding contacts the J block? Or around the light fixture? If it’s the latter, absolutely silicone caulking. As far as the J block goes, I never had any issues and I don’t think I’ve seen them caulked before. With that said, I don’t see any harm in caulking. Thanks for watching.
Hey bud, nice video. After you put the mount on siding, did you just mount light fixture on that box? If so, it's strong enough for your fixture?
Thank you! Yes, the fixture will come with a metal mount and that gets screwed onto the vinyl box and wood behind it. I used long enough screws to hit the wood and hold that mount tight. You then attach your fixture on the mount just like any light. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and supporting.
you probably dont care but if you are stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Been streaming with my gf for the last couple of weeks xD
@Christian Otto Definitely, I have been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
@Christian Otto Yea, been watching on instaflixxer for since november myself :D
@Christian Otto yup, been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
I really don't know why he skipped the first part of the project, which I needed to see. smh. Maybe that's a sign that I'm not up for this job. :(
I skipped watching this video as soon as I saw magic Mike here wasn't dressed
lol…was doing yard work before hand, it must have been 100°
No junction box? That's bad!
Stapled my wire, taped connection and tucked inside the base of an exterior rated fixture that was subsequently sealed with silicon. I wanted the fixture flush with siding and punched through rim joist. Like another viewer suggested, a block with a box includes may have been a gd alternative. Otherwise a traditional J box would not have worked here. Anyway, it’s a sealed tight connection between plastic J block and fixture with no exposure to wood.
Seems like way too much work. I filled the gap behind with great stuff and caulking and called it done 👍
First of all PUT on a shirt, 2nd good job.
I mean you could do anything you like but when you sell your house and inspector says, ohhh no jbox WTF, and we'll either you fix all the issues or buyer just moves on. DO IT ONCE DO IT BY CODE. Dosent mean this guy did not do a good job, just did the easiest way possible for an unexpirianced homeowner. That's all.
Not the first time I heard that. See comments below. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
@@TrueGritDevelopment 👊
Please put a shirt on. Please.
Neat
Thank you!
Please wear a shirt next time.
It was very hot I promise, but ok will do. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
totally wrong
Please elaborate? But maybe read the comments first in case I already answered or commented on same “totally wrong” feedback. Thanks
Why do people post dangerous "How-To" videos? You are REQURED to use a weather tight electrical box to make all connections to any outside lighting. Passing a wire through the wall is dangerous, so please do NOT use this video as a way to do your job.
You are absolutely correct. All wired connections should be contained. This video was specifically addressing the addition of a J block to vinyl siding BTW. Anyway, in this case the connection was made inside a ETL listed exterior fixture, wire nutted of course and taped. I would have loved to use a box, but the fixture needed to be mounted on the band joist and carving out for an electrical box was not an option. Once the fixture was mounted tight, silicon sealant was applied around the base to further protect it from water intrusion. I put these videos to share my knowledge and learn from others. Thanks for watching.
tell me; is there a circular metal or plastic fixture box behind the vinyl box? I am suspecting no as you gave it just1 second of time when you cried whooopie. I think you cheated. tell me I am wrong
for not showing that I must give youa humbs down,, but I don't see it. damn
Thanks for watching. See prior comments…whooopie!
My two cents: you actually should cut the opening ⅛" bigger than that 5x6 box to allow for expansion and contraction.
Good point, will have to do that on my next project. Thanks for watching 👊🏼