Pete, I've never been an electrician, but at 72, I've done my share of electrical work around the house(s), including installing innumerable light fixtures. When I saw the title of the video "... The Right Way", I thought, ok, let's see what this guy has to say. Well, what an informative video! I must have learned 5-6 new things I never heard of, all explained very well as to why you do it that way. Wow, there really is no substitute for experience! I can tell you like being an electrician.
Thank you for explaining not just the how-tos, but the whys behind them as well. A better understanding of how things work really helps me. Yours is the 3rd video I watched, and you mentioned so many other helpful details than the other videos. e.g. twisting the ends of the strands, having the different length of strand/solid connection, the tab inside the light bulb, etc. I’m excited to install mine now!
Thanks for watching, Sara! Some call me long-winded, I prefer to say I’m “complete”… Best of luck with your installation and let me know if you have any questions!
Hello Pete! Drove 2.5 hours to work on my youngest son's college house. Was ready to replace front porch light but checked the tab inside the fixture as you mentioned in your video. Bingo, it was a 2-minute fix! A couple of quick chores later and I was eating pizza with him on his couch just like a college kid. Thanks for the tip, I learned something new!
Todd, thanks for watching! So happy to hear that the video was helpful. Glad it was a quick repair and it allowed you to spend more time with your son. That’s time we’ll spent for sure.
Thanks for posting. I've installed a number of outdoor fixtures but haven't done one on siding so I've been checking out videos. Interesting tip to extend the stranded wire a little further. I do prefer to also wind the two wires where the jackets are a bit though. I do put the wire-nuts up though. I especially liked your point about not tightening the mounting screws on the crossbars. I always have but your method makes way more sense and eliminates the frustration of getting the exact distance extended for the acorn nuts to seat properly! I'll be remembering that one thanks.
That's a really good tip about masking the fixture with painter's tape before adding a bead of caulk to seal it up. I just did that with mine, and it worked great. Thanks.
Going to attempt this today. Feeling much safer and confident from watching this. Excellent camera work! We can actually see what was happening. Learned lots, so thanks very much.
I’m glad to hear that the video was informative and left you with the confidence to handle this task! All of the camera credit goes to my son - couldn’t do it without him! Best of luck with your project and feel free to reach out if you have questions.
Thanks so much! I just replaced the 2 fixtures flanking my patio door after watching your vid, writing certain steps on paper to have handy on my ladder. Followed your PRO tips, like extending stranded wire past solid one, turn direction of nuts to avoid rain, etc, which other well meaning UA-camrs (but not PRO electrician) might exclude. I was so confident that I ordered one of the replacements "Used, Very Good condition" from Amazon for half price-supposedly only having a dented box, but ya never know. Figured I could readily TEST it with a quick install of ONLY the wires. YES, I had to keep reminding myself to flip the circuit breaker back OFF after the test. So what a joyous moment when BOTH lights worked after completely installed. (One fixture had already failed a year ago but I hadn't gotten around to fixing it til now, so wasn't sure what was going on there-the fixture or internal wiring.) Actually, REMOVING the old fixture was the hardest part! One of the 2 decorative nuts on each fixture didn't want to come off. It was like screwing it was also turning the bolt it was attached to, going round & round nowhere. The good thing? Because I was "educated" by your vid already, I didn't panic. Used pliers to pull nut-attached to the whole shebang (bolt, fixture & mounting plate) slightly, bending plate JUST far enough away to access the 2 screws (at top & bottom) holding old mounting plate to wall. Then unscrew them to remove old fixture. Was quite an ordeal, actually. Makes me now wanna research how to readily remove rusty nuts, bolts, etc. Cause lately with Covid, I've been doing plumbing too, and encountering nuts & bolts rusted together-not readily removable-even with WD-40 and similar products. Well that's a whole other night's UA-cam viewing :-) Thanks again so much! You are indeed COMPLETE Pete!
Thanks for watching! I’m so glad that you had a great experience with your project. If there is some other project you would be interested in seeing a video, please let me know.
@@completepete Hey, I notice that you twisted the new stranded wire CLOCKWISE. Does that make a difference in how strong the connection is? ..Since we later turn the NUT in one direction onto both wires, might we be "unraveling" or twisting the stranded wire even tighter depending on what direction we twisted the stranded wire initially? I'm reminded of pipe tape for plumbing fixtures where the direction of tape wrapping makes a difference, and I'm sure there are more light fixtures swaps in my future :-) Thanks!
Great question.. I always twist clockwise with the stranded wire and when the wire nut goes on, it’s also twisted clockwise. This allows the spring connection inside the wire nut to tighten when it’s turned clockwise
Awesome to hear! If you have any other electrical projects coming up, drop me a line and maybe I can do a quick how-to video.. if it might help you, it could help others also.
Thanks for this. I was surprised at the lack of a gasket on a similar light that I bought recently, this explains it well. On the circular mounting plate, there’s usually a bunch of threaded holes for different sized boxes. if the light is still sagging, you can put a longer #8-32 screw in on a bottom hole and turn it until it contracts the back of the metal box, and use that to keep the plate from bending over time and the light sagging. Assuming there’s not wires in the way that the long machine screw would damage of course.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the extra little details about the installation like leveling the mounting bracket, wire nuts facing upward, proper tension on the lightbulb fit, caulking around the top, etc.
Thank you! Just installed a new porch light for my very first time! You made it extremely easy, my new light looks great. I must admit I was a bit intimidated to do it myself But your video helped so much, Thank you again!
Thank you so much for the instruction. My husband and I were replacing an outside light fixture and got confused how to handle the ground wire. Thank you!
Thank You! I didn't know about the orientation of the stranded wire Vs. the solid core wire. Also, the tip about the wire lugs is something that I have never thought about. You've given me the confidence to repair my outdoor light fixture and it's going well. The light that I'm working on is bent and the junction box is not secured in place. I'm going to remove the light and secure the junction box in place and straighten the threaded tube. Thank You!
Thanks for watching Jeffrey! I’m so glad that you were able to perform this repair.. take your time and enjoy the process. I’m working on some other electrical videos and hopefully one of them may guide you into your next project. If there is something electrically related that you would like to see, just let me know!
I am impressed with the diligence and order of the presentation. Thank you for creating this video. This will help when I get ready to remove and install my front entrance light.
Excellent vid Pete - Hadn't had to mess with my exposed light fixtures in nearly 20 yrs, but this really helped! BTW that is the coolest mini-level I've ever seen; mine is a cheapo white plastic job. I was thinking I'll need mine for the new fixtures I bought, glad to see you used one.
Weirdly, I just installed a light fixture today and watched this video for reference... I also had a massive flock of geese fly overhead while doing it! Also my fixture and bulb were nearly identical.
This is awesome. You explain things very well! 👍😀 I never knew that about light bulbs. I wish they would teach us these things in school. I’ve never used e= mc squared in my life. But practical electrical applications are all around us in our everyday lives.
Thanks for watching! I agree that some of what our school-age years teach us is not particularly applicable later in life. I’m glad you enjoyed the video, and hope it helps you in the future!
Thank you for this video - it was incredibly informative and I am now much more confident in my endeavor to install an exterior light. Excellent job, keep up the great work!
I know 90% of this, but your tips about stranded to solid wires and twisting in the bulb were great. Question: how do you keep the mounting screws loose so that they can go in further if necessary for the decorative nuts. You mentioned this when mounting the light, but it was not clear when you installed the bracket.
Thanks for watching! There would be three ways I’d go depending on the job. First would be to install shorter 8/32 screws into the mounting bracket. Second would be to use the screw cutter on my Klein stakon crimpers to cut the screw shorter. Third if I had no shorter screws or my screw cutter I’d run the screw heads back against the siding and mark around them. Then I’d drill a 1/4” hole through the vinyl and into the plywood to create a pocket for the screw to recess into if needed. Thanks for mentioning this as I can do a quick video covering these points!
This is very helpful. Upon removal of the old fixture, I realized there is no junction box! Can you do a video on how to install a round junction box? Or any tips/suggestions?
Thanks for watching.. glad you found the video helpful. It’s possible to cut into the siding and add a box (I was planning to do a video in this in the near future). If you have vinyl siding you can add a siding block with a molded in junction box - www.homedepot.com/p/Arlington-Industries-5-8-in-Lap-Siding-Mounting-Kit-with-Built-in-Box-8151-1/202284581 They make this type of siding block for a number of siding types. This is a great way to go if you have vinyl siding so you can avoid cutting into the siding. Please subscribe so you don’t miss the video.. if you project is more urgent hopefully the siding block option will work, let me know if there is anything else I can do to help!
@@completepete thank you! Trouble is, the house already has the “block.” It’s like 6” x 7” roughly. Can I cut into the block and install the junction there? Or do I need to remove the entire block and start from scratch?
Thanks for watching! Yes, you should go back and attach the ground wire to the mounting bracket. The ground is what trips the breaker in the event of a short circuit.
Great video! I love how you explain things. I was gonna say, the original installer really did put it in correctly, but then I noticed they only used two screws to mount the box, lol
Good video! My ground wire is held in the mounting by a small bracket. When I disconnected it from the old fixture the wire broke right at the end. Can I attach an extender wire by pulling it out from the bracket attached to the box or should I attach another piece to the section where it comes out of the wall to the bracket?
I'll be trying this is a couple days, after my sconces are delivered. I've pulled out one of the pair that were original equipment when the house was built 50-years ago. I am not seeing a ground wire, just black and white. Maybe I can dig out another wire tomorrow in daylight...but, what if there is no ground wire as I suspect may be the case? BTW, I've watched several other videos on this subject and this is the best yet.
Thanks for watching! Lack of a grounding conductor is a common issue in older homes. You can check closely and you might find a ground wire wrapped around the cable jacket right where the cable enters the box. Years ago electricians wrapped the ground around the jacket under the clamp and tightened the clamp down. If you really don’t have a grounding conductor, just leave it disconnected in the box as it’s a secondary path for fault current. This would be the best you can do without rewiring.
I am instaling a outdoor light fixture very simler to the one you instaled, the problem I have is the fixture mounting screws are 3 inches apart and does not go in the wall box openning. The wall is stucco finish and the round box openning measures 2 3/4 inches, Is there a remedy without tearing the old box out of the wall. You video is very informative. .
Thanks for watching Maruk! Two ways to solve this problem. One way is to mark where the bolt heads are hitting the stucco and using a masonry bit in a drill to drill into the wall to give space for the bolt heads to recess into. Second way is to use shorter bolts or cut the existing bolts shorter using this tool. www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-Crimper/1083479. One of these methods should work..
@@completepete Thank you for your quick response. I am choosing uour second method and i am adding spacers behind the universal plate so that the screw head have space, thanks again. Maruk
Great video. My old fixture has nest the size or avocado pit that a giant wasp is looking to move into. Immediate suspension of project! Man that thing is huge. At any rate... waiting for my hvac neighbor here in my condo community to see if he'll let me borrow his voltage meter tester. I don't trust the breaker. What I notice is that the old porch light doesn't have a ground wire but my new one does. Do I just wrap the copper wire around the little prong with the green dye on it?
Thanks for watching and good idea avoid that wasp nest! Most times there is a grounding conductor running along with the hot and neutral. If the fixture box is wired with steel jacketed BX cable or conduit, you would wrap the fixture ground around the green screw on the fixture bracket.
So lets say I have a outdoor light fixture (concrete block stucco home) and I want to add a hard-wire camera about 20" above it. What would be the best way to tap into the power of the existing fixture?
Without seeing what you have. I’d say the only thing you can do easily would be to add weatherproof (bell box) extension. This would allow you to tap off the existing box. Of course that limits you to certain type of fixtures that will fit on the box. www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-Metallic-Weatherproof-Extension-Ring-with-4-1-2-in-Holes-Gray-WRE450G/300847257
I have a similar set up with my old light on the vinyl box as you do. However, when I removed my old light, the hole was very small so I could not tell if there was an electrical box inside the vinyl box. I installed a new LED flood light but now thinking I should have double checked to see if there was a metal electric box inside the vinyl piece. Or does the external vinyl piece act as an electric box? Thank you.
Scott, thanks for watching! I’ve seen this issue you are talking about many times. Most often there is a box installed but the vinyl siding folks don’t take the time to cut the 4” circle in the block. Instead electing to make a small hole to push the wires through. Some siding blocks have an integrated box but it would be obvious. The third possibility is that there was a surface mount box there originally and it’s only a cable poking through the wall. It would be best if the fixture was attached to either a recessed box or a surface mounted pancake box and of course properly grounded. You may want to check a little closer to see if there is a box somewhere. Feel free to send a picture to CompletePete6@gmail.com if you are not sure what you are looking at.
I’ve never switched a fixture but I’m going to try to. This video was very helpful and I think I have the same new fixture from Lowe’s. Question: after I connect the fixture wires to the existing wires in the electrical box, do I need to make sure that the black and white wires do or do not touch each other or the ground wire or does that not matter? I’m terrified that I’m going to do something electrically wrong and start a house fire.
Sue, thanks for watching! I purchase that fixture from Lowe’s so most likely it’s the same one you have. When you make the wire connections, strip the wire to an appropriate length and properly install your wire nut. Typically it will be black to black, white to white bare copper\green insulated to ground. The conductor insulation (black,white,bare/green) can touch each other without issue. Only the bare copper conductors under the wire nuts (energized wiring) cannot touch. Once you install the three wire nuts, you can wrap electrical tape around the wire nut and conductor to make double sure there is no chance of anything touching. Take your time and of course make sure the power is off, all safety rules are followed and then just stand back and enjoy your handy work.. in that order. Good luck with your project
I have a mounting box that looks just like the one in your video. Unfortunately my new fixture needs a bigger surface to sit flush. Do you have a video changing the block/box out? Also my siding is hardyplank and the mounting box was cut into place it doesn't sit on top of the siding like the one in your video. Thanks for such a great video!
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I know that PPG makes primed light blocks for James Hardie siding in four sizes. Saw a 5/4” thick x 7 1/2” wide x 9 1/2” high on Home Depot’s website. You may need to cut off the existing block with a 4 1/2” angle grinder with a concrete wheel (wear a dusk mask and goggles). The new block can be attached with an exterior adhesive. Good luck with your project! If you run into trouble you can send pictures of your project to completepete6@gmail.com and I’ll help if possible
I have never changed a light fixture. You made it looked easy. I have an old fixture on my backyard that needs replacing. The new one I got looks similar to yours only smaller in length. I have subscribed so I can find your video for my upcoming little project. Question: Would silicon works in that gap you mentioned in your video?
Thanks for watching and I’m happy that I’m able to help in some small way. Any outdoor silicone or latex caulk will work and give you a good color match to your siding. Good luck with your project!
Thx for video. Is this considered wet location? I need to install gooseneck light on barn and wondering if I can use just a normal junction box that is recessed and attached to stud or brace… or even a pan box? What would best approach be to minimize hole in siding but have a nice flush fixture with no visible box?
I really like the old style gooseneck lights. I’ve installed them a few ways.. normally I bend the goosenecks out of rigid steel pipe and use a recessed steel box or if keeping with an industrial / farmhouse look I use a galvanized steel surface mount box that is used with rigid steel pipe. In your case, cutting in a metal box should be pretty easy and just fasten the screws right through the siding and into the plywood sheathing. No need to attach to a stud or brace unless the fixture and arm are very heavy. I have in some cases had to install a mounting clip above the gooseneck with a piece of 1/16” stainless steel cable for added support to prevent sagging. Hard to see and gives some support. Let me know if you need any support as you move forward with your project.
Awesome video. Like how thorough it was. Any idea how to install a new fixture into a vinyl block that the siders already put up - without the cutout done? All I have is a smooth block with the yellow romex sticking out of the middle.
Hi Jacqueline - thank you for your comment and for watching! I’m actually preparing to film a video doing this exact thing. What is your timeline for this project? If you need a more immediate answer, feel free to send me an email at completepete6@gmail.com with some photos and I can help.
What if your siding installer didn't bring the junction box out? Can I mount it directly to the mount block?? The junction box is still mounted behind new Tyvek, insulated board and Dutch lap with the wires coming out neatly through the mounting block center hole (approx 1.75" diam). I can see the box is a few inches to the side under the siding so I can't pull it out to the mount block. Not without popping siding off.
I think I’d install a metal extension box on the current box. www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-Steel-New-Work-Old-Work-Box-Extender-Electrical-Box/3127061. Lowes has a 1 1/2” deep version that might work. An electrical supply house may have shallower versions of the extension box. Hard to tell without photo.. by all means send some pictures to completepete6@gmail.com and I’m happy to weigh in. Pete
You don't have to by code and I normally make sure the wire nut closed end is pointing up to keep water out. A wrap of tape between the wire and wire nut is even better to make sure the connection stays dry. Thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing!
Hello bought a used mobile home and it needs work of course I need to replace outside porch/ exterior light do you just match the colors to connect sorry I don’t know anything about electrical work and wanna learn please help and your video is good 👍
Usually matching colors is typically ok. I would measure voltage between the black and white to confirm 120 volts. Then test brim black to ground to test that you have a good ground, should be 120 volts again. Finally neutral (white) to ground and you should have zero or milivoltage. Sounds like a lot but it’s really a very quick check. Good luck with your project!
I'm going to be installing fixtures on existing blank vinyl mounting blocks. I see that box you're dealing with there is a cut-in switch box. How do you cut that vinyl mounting block to install the box? How deep is the switch box? I can see the cutout lines for a round box or a switch box I just don't know how to properly cut it and how much room will I have behind the mounting block to mount a box. Thanks
Hi Jack. The siding blocks are scored on the rear for round and rectangular boxes. If the block is installed as part of the siding (not removable). You will need to cut the block to insert the switch box. Trace the outline of the box, drill a series holes around the pencil line and score with a utility knife. I’d go with a 1-gang shallow metal switch box.. you will need to cut the wood sheathing for the switch box also. Depending on when you planned to do this work, I’d be happy to do a video showing exactly how to do it. Happy to help if you need some additional info.
Hi Pete, thanks for the info. I'm in no hurry and I would love to see how you do that (install a fixture on an existing vinyl block). The block I'm dealing with is part of the existing siding so I won't be able to remove it. I thought a shallow box might fit between the mounting block and the plywood sheathing. All I'd have to do then is cut the box out of the vinyl and just drill a hole in the plywood for the Romex. I think you're saying I have to cut the plywood too. Thanks again, Jack
Hey Jack.. I think you would need a very shallow box as the siding blocks are usually about 3/4” thick. Old work box’s are about 1 1/2” deep. Worst case you would need to drill a series of holes around the outline of the box and trim the little webs between the drilled holes. This will give you a bit of room to recess the box into the plywood if needed. You might be able to fit a round pancake box in there also. It probably best to take some good measurements of just how much room you have behind the block, even if you need to stick a piece of wire coat hanger in a gap to get a depth measurement. It sounds like you have this well in hand.. if I can be of any help please let me know.
We are looking to change out our front light fixture and flag pole looking for these mounting blocks. Went to both Lowe’s and Home Depot and they had no idea what we were asking for! Any suggestions?
Hi Rhonda and thanks for watching. The mounting brackets are fairly universal, some with adjustments for the mounting screws. I’d suggest using the new bracket that comes with your new fixture as its only held in place with two 8/32 screws. Good luck with your project!
@@completepete Thank you so much! I had bought two used coachlights that I really like, but I do not have the brackets they came with, I only have my existing brackets holding the lights that are already on my house.... I just noticed today that one of the aforementioned used light fixtures that I want to use as a replacement does not have a ground wire in it, so I am wondering if I should just ditch this whole 'reuse' idea and just buy new ones? It would be a shame because I really like these secondhand ones. I do have the ground wire that is coming out of the existing bracket from my house, so I wonder if I could just attach that to the pre-owned light fixture that does not have a ground wire?
Rhonda, I’d try to install the two used coach lights. I think you will enjoy seeing them every day on your way in and out. Amazon Carrie’s several types of universal fixture brackets that should work. The ground wire should loop around the green screw on your new fixture bar with a bit of a tail left. Amazon has a fixture ground wire available that might work. www.amazon.com/Satco-Ground-Wire-Lug-93335/dp/B005NWMN9Q You may need to separate the fixture a bit to slide the ground ring over the 1/4” nipple that typically hold the fixtures together. Or perhaps there is a screw stud or lug somewhere on the fixture to connect onto.
I think I can be able to replace my light fixture. However, I'm not clear when you refer to the "ground wire" and "neutral wire". Will they be color coded? How will I know which is which?
Ran into issues installing mine in my old house so I came here. My mounting bracket screws will not tighten. They just keep spinning so I cannot level the bracket before install because the screws are angled in different directions.
I have two lights on either side of the garage I installed about a year ago. One has not been lighting up, I tried multiple bulbs, and checked the bulbs inside too and they work. I used a voltage tester in the socket and it is getting current the same as the other fixture when switched on. I tried pulling down the tab in the socket for a better connection with no success. Do you think I need a new socket?
Hi and thanks for watching. Usually there are a few possible issues with outdoor fixtures. Most issues are caused by a loose connection or corrosion . I’m curious if on the non-working fixture if you checked for 120 volt from the socket pin to ground and from the socket pin to the socket shell. You may have lost the neutral (white wire) connection which would also prevent the bulb from working.
@@completepete Thank you! If I had to guess I think it is probably the neutral loose. After watching your video I now know the best way to attach the two different styles of wires, extending the one slightly past so I will try that for a better connection this time. Wanted to cover all my bases before I took the fixture down again.
I have a hang down lamp, one of 3 in my kitchen that keeps burning out bulbs. If it is because of a flattened tab that receives the bulb, is there a simple solution to fix the lamp or is it ruined?
Hi Sheri.. as you pointed out the problem is most likely the socket. You would need to turn off the power before starting. It would not be a bad idea to test for voltage at the socket with a meter before starting. I just stick my finger in the socket and pull up on the contact with my finger nail. Of course I'm a trained electrician with test equipment. You could also remove the fixture to perform the repairs.. if a socket is damaged, they are not difficult to replace. If you get to that point, I'd be happy to do a quick video on how to replace the socket. Something else to consider: bulb should be suitable to burn in the position you are using it in, vibration on floor above or garage door opener can cause the filiment to break (change bulb type), bulb might be incompatible with dimmer if one is used or the fixture wiring might be loose. It sounds like a lot but one thing at a time.
I have a question about the junction box you have there. Is the box secured through the mounting plate and then into the sheathing only or is there something else behind?
Sorry for the delayed response.. the GEM box in cut into the plastic siding block. There is also a hole in the plywood sheathing for the back of the box as it’s 2 1/2” deep. The metal box is screwed through the plastic and into the sheathing with 3” deck screws.
The common name is a siding Block. The one I’m working with goes on before the siding but they can be replaced by unzipping the siding with a tool. www.homedepot.com/p/Malco-SideSwiper-Siding-Removal-Tool-SRT2/100098527 Other styles of siding are surface mounted and are sandwiched between the siding and the light fixture. Happy to help, and thanks for watching!
I did the installation of my new fixture. I see there is power going to the fixture, but the bulb is not coming on. If I use a 60watt led ecosmart light bulb could that be the reason why it's not working?
Hi Ali.. You would want to confirm that you have 120 volt at the socket. That would be power at the contact and neutral at the socket shell (not just voltage at the contact) I would try the bulb inside in a lamp, could simply be defective. Try testing your bulb first, then the voltage next, then your wiring connections.
I would always recommend ensuring that the power at your panel box is turned off for the circuit you plan to work on before you get started. An electrical meter (such as a Fluke T Plus Pro) will help you determine if you’ve successfully turned off the power.
Hi Robert and thanks for watching! It sounds like the mounting bolts are spinning out along with the nuts. It’s possible to spin out the nuts enough to carefully grab the threaded part of the bolt with needle nose pliers and the nut with another pause of pliers to break them loose from each other. Might need a helper to hold the fixture. If just the nut is turning, spray a little penetrant on it and let it sit for a while (protect your siding from over spray) Grab the nut with needle nose and pull back while loosening. Hopefully one of these methods will work.
Thanks for watching Rick and happy to help. As I get time, I’ll be posting more electrical related videos. Anything in particular you are interested in, let me know!
Your new mounting ring is vertically offset from the center of the electrical box. It may be that the gap at the top of the fixture is due to the offset making it ride up on top of either the bracket or the underlying electrical box.
How do I remove the big plastic square where the wires are coming out? I can’t get to the photo sensor connection behind it. I put a new light fixture up but it won’t work because the old photo sensor is still wired up.
The best way to remove the square is to score it with a sharp utility knife blade and knock it out. You can also drill a series of holes in the plastic very close together and cut out the webbing between the holes with your utility knife.
Thanks for watching Teresa.. glad you found the video helpful and hope you subscribed as I have more electrical diy videos on the way. I think 99% of siding blocks are vinyl. I did find these online www.dunnlumber.com/Store/Products.aspx?pg=2218&pl1=2418&sort=StockClassSort&direction=asc. They have some wood blocks that might work for you.
Lots of great little tips (like Joe Accardo mentioned)! Working on replacing fixture now but it looks like I'll have to buy round mounting bracket because old one just has a flat one & cannot figure out how to attach new one, especially since new fixture has larger mounting bolts.
Roger, The mounting bracket that came with the fixture should work. If you like, send a couple photos to completepete6@gmail.com and I'd be happy to see what I can see.
Craig, I got my level fro an electrical supply house but you can get it from Amazon also.. it’s the Greenlee L107 www.amazon.com/Greenlee-L107-Electricians-Torpedo-Level/dp/B002NQQ9OK/ref=asc_df_B002NQQ9OK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309823018507&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14668082316983087350&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004850&hvtargid=pla-434238017470&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60862048799&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309823018507&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14668082316983087350&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004850&hvtargid=pla-434238017470
Pete, I've never been an electrician, but at 72, I've done my share of electrical work around the house(s), including installing innumerable light fixtures. When I saw the title of the video "... The Right Way", I thought, ok, let's see what this guy has to say.
Well, what an informative video! I must have learned 5-6 new things I never heard of, all explained very well as to why you do it that way. Wow, there really is no substitute for experience! I can tell you like being an electrician.
Thanks for the kind words Tom. It’s hard being in front of the camera sometimes! Glad you enjoyed the video
Thank you for explaining not just the how-tos, but the whys behind them as well. A better understanding of how things work really helps me. Yours is the 3rd video I watched, and you mentioned so many other helpful details than the other videos. e.g. twisting the ends of the strands, having the different length of strand/solid connection, the tab inside the light bulb, etc. I’m excited to install mine now!
Thanks for watching, Sara! Some call me long-winded, I prefer to say I’m “complete”… Best of luck with your installation and let me know if you have any questions!
@@completepete I agree, no one else mentioned leveling, or not lining up the strands and solids even
Hello Pete! Drove 2.5 hours to work on my youngest son's college house. Was ready to replace front porch light but checked the tab inside the fixture as you mentioned in your video. Bingo, it was a 2-minute fix! A couple of quick chores later and I was eating pizza with him on his couch just like a college kid. Thanks for the tip, I learned something new!
Todd, thanks for watching! So happy to hear that the video was helpful. Glad it was a quick repair and it allowed you to spend more time with your son. That’s time we’ll spent for sure.
Thanks for posting. I've installed a number of outdoor fixtures but haven't done one on siding so I've been checking out videos. Interesting tip to extend the stranded wire a little further. I do prefer to also wind the two wires where the jackets are a bit though. I do put the wire-nuts up though.
I especially liked your point about not tightening the mounting screws on the crossbars. I always have but your method makes way more sense and eliminates the frustration of getting the exact distance extended for the acorn nuts to seat properly! I'll be remembering that one thanks.
That's a really good tip about masking the fixture with painter's tape before adding a bead of caulk to seal it up. I just did that with mine, and it worked great. Thanks.
Going to attempt this today. Feeling much safer and confident from watching this. Excellent camera work! We can actually see what was happening. Learned lots, so thanks very much.
I’m glad to hear that the video was informative and left you with the confidence to handle this task! All of the camera credit goes to my son - couldn’t do it without him!
Best of luck with your project and feel free to reach out if you have questions.
Thanks so much! I just replaced the 2 fixtures flanking my patio door after watching your vid, writing certain steps on paper to have handy on my ladder. Followed your PRO tips, like extending stranded wire past solid one, turn direction of nuts to avoid rain, etc, which other well meaning UA-camrs (but not PRO electrician) might exclude. I was so confident that I ordered one of the replacements "Used, Very Good condition" from Amazon for half price-supposedly only having a dented box, but ya never know. Figured I could readily TEST it with a quick install of ONLY the wires. YES, I had to keep reminding myself to flip the circuit breaker back OFF after the test. So what a joyous moment when BOTH lights worked after completely installed. (One fixture had already failed a year ago but I hadn't gotten around to fixing it til now, so wasn't sure what was going on there-the fixture or internal wiring.) Actually, REMOVING the old fixture was the hardest part! One of the 2 decorative nuts on each fixture didn't want to come off. It was like screwing it was also turning the bolt it was attached to, going round & round nowhere. The good thing? Because I was "educated" by your vid already, I didn't panic. Used pliers to pull nut-attached to the whole shebang (bolt, fixture & mounting plate) slightly, bending plate JUST far enough away to access the 2 screws (at top & bottom) holding old mounting plate to wall. Then unscrew them to remove old fixture. Was quite an ordeal, actually. Makes me now wanna research how to readily remove rusty nuts, bolts, etc. Cause lately with Covid, I've been doing plumbing too, and encountering nuts & bolts rusted together-not readily removable-even with WD-40 and similar products. Well that's a whole other night's UA-cam viewing :-) Thanks again so much! You are indeed COMPLETE Pete!
Thanks for watching! I’m so glad that you had a great experience with your project. If there is some other project you would be interested in seeing a video, please let me know.
@@completepete Hey, I notice that you twisted the new stranded wire CLOCKWISE. Does that make a difference in how strong the connection is? ..Since we later turn the NUT in one direction onto both wires, might we be "unraveling" or twisting the stranded wire even tighter depending on what direction we twisted the stranded wire initially? I'm reminded of pipe tape for plumbing fixtures where the direction of tape wrapping makes a difference, and I'm sure there are more light fixtures swaps in my future :-) Thanks!
Great question.. I always twist clockwise with the stranded wire and when the wire nut goes on, it’s also twisted clockwise. This allows the spring connection inside the wire nut to tighten when it’s turned clockwise
Just finished installing my outdoor light fixture after watching this! You have the best how-to video on this. I had no trouble at all.
Awesome to hear! If you have any other electrical projects coming up, drop me a line and maybe I can do a quick how-to video.. if it might help you, it could help others also.
Thanks for this. I was surprised at the lack of a gasket on a similar light that I bought recently, this explains it well.
On the circular mounting plate, there’s usually a bunch of threaded holes for different sized boxes. if the light is still sagging, you can put a longer #8-32 screw in on a bottom hole and turn it until it contracts the back of the metal box, and use that to keep the plate from bending over time and the light sagging. Assuming there’s not wires in the way that the long machine screw would damage of course.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the extra little details about the installation like leveling the mounting bracket, wire nuts facing upward, proper tension on the lightbulb fit, caulking around the top, etc.
Joe, thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing! I’m glad you found the video to be helpful.
Was totally stumped as to how to change the light bulb on the Kichler Admirals Cove 1 Light - till I watched your video - so very helpful - thanks
Thank you! Just installed a new porch light for my very first time! You made it extremely easy, my new light looks great. I must admit I was a bit intimidated to do it myself But your video helped so much, Thank you again!
Thanks so much for watching, and for your kind words. I’m glad to hear that you were able to successfully install your porch light with confidence!
Pete, this video helped me a LOT. I replaced 4 outdoor lights and it got easier after the first one thanks to your advice. I appreciate your effort.
Thanks for watching! I’m glad that you found the video helpful.
Thank you so much for the instruction. My husband and I were replacing an outside light fixture and got confused how to handle the ground wire. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Monique! Happy I was able to help with your project.
Thank You!
I didn't know about the orientation of the stranded wire Vs. the solid core wire.
Also, the tip about the wire lugs is something that I have never thought about.
You've given me the confidence to repair my outdoor light fixture and it's going well.
The light that I'm working on is bent and the junction box is not secured in place.
I'm going to remove the light and secure the junction box in place and straighten the threaded tube.
Thank You!
Thanks for watching Jeffrey! I’m so glad that you were able to perform this repair.. take your time and enjoy the process. I’m working on some other electrical videos and hopefully one of them may guide you into your next project. If there is something electrically related that you would like to see, just let me know!
I am impressed with the diligence and order of the presentation. Thank you for creating this video. This will help when I get ready to remove and install my front entrance light.
Thank for watching! Glad it was helpful and good luck with your project.
Excellent video Pete! I'm buying 4 new outdoor wall lights for my house and after watching this, I'm ready for the install....thank you!
Thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing! I'll have more DIY videos as time allows.
Excellent vid Pete - Hadn't had to mess with my exposed light fixtures in nearly 20 yrs, but this really helped! BTW that is the coolest mini-level I've ever seen; mine is a cheapo white plastic job. I was thinking I'll need mine for the new fixtures I bought, glad to see you used one.
This is exactly what I needed to see done. Thank you! And, for not dribbling on and on …. Great info
Thanks for watching Susan!
Very professional, great camera work. I hear geese at 14:25 - brought back memories growing up.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Weirdly, I just installed a light fixture today and watched this video for reference... I also had a massive flock of geese fly overhead while doing it! Also my fixture and bulb were nearly identical.
This was really an instructional video. The theory behind the installation was everything. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, good luck with your project(s)!
This is awesome. You explain things very well! 👍😀 I never knew that about light bulbs. I wish they would teach us these things in school. I’ve never used e= mc squared in my life. But practical electrical applications are all around us in our everyday lives.
Thanks for watching! I agree that some of what our school-age years teach us is not particularly applicable later in life. I’m glad you enjoyed the video, and hope it helps you in the future!
Just an outstanding instructional video. Now on to replacing my outdoor lights! Thank you, Pete!
Thanks for watching Richard! Glad you found the video to be helpful. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for showing me how to install my exterior lights, I love the light you installed, it looks really sharp!
Thanks for watching Patty Ann! Happy to help.
Thank you for a quick and informative video! I've successfully installed my first 2 outdoor light fixtures after watching this :)
Happy to hear you finished your project. Thank you for the kind words.. nobody has ever said my videos were quick! - Pete
Man I cant thank you enough, you made it so easy to understand and follow, thanks a bunch👊🏼
Thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing! Happy to help..
Thank you for this video! Now I can install my fixture myself. You explained everything so well.
Mary, thank you for watching! Best of luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions!
Thank you for this video - it was incredibly informative and I am now much more confident in my endeavor to install an exterior light. Excellent job, keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching.. happy to help, especially new homeowners! If you run across something you need help with please reach out.
Best vid on this subject yet. Clear instructions and explanations. Thx!
Thanks
For watching Joel! Glad you found the video helpful..
I know 90% of this, but your tips about stranded to solid wires and twisting in the bulb were great. Question: how do you keep the mounting screws loose so that they can go in further if necessary for the decorative nuts. You mentioned this when mounting the light, but it was not clear when you installed the bracket.
Thanks for watching! There would be three ways I’d go depending on the job. First would be to install shorter 8/32 screws into the mounting bracket. Second would be to use the screw cutter on my Klein stakon crimpers to cut the screw shorter. Third if I had no shorter screws or my screw cutter I’d run the screw heads back against the siding and mark around them. Then I’d drill a 1/4” hole through the vinyl and into the plywood to create a pocket for the screw to recess into if needed. Thanks for mentioning this as I can do a quick video covering these points!
Perfect! This was exactly what I was looking for. Many thanks for this excellent video.
Glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
He is definitely very thorough- love it
This is very helpful. Upon removal of the old fixture, I realized there is no junction box! Can you do a video on how to install a round junction box? Or any tips/suggestions?
Thanks for watching.. glad you found the video helpful. It’s possible to cut into the siding and add a box (I was planning to do a video in this in the near future). If you have vinyl siding you can add a siding block with a molded in junction box -
www.homedepot.com/p/Arlington-Industries-5-8-in-Lap-Siding-Mounting-Kit-with-Built-in-Box-8151-1/202284581
They make this type of siding block for a number of siding types. This is a great way to go if you have vinyl siding so you can avoid cutting into the siding. Please subscribe so you don’t miss the video.. if you project is more urgent hopefully the siding block option will work, let me know if there is anything else I can do to help!
@@completepete thank you! Trouble is, the house already has the “block.” It’s like 6” x 7” roughly. Can I cut into the block and install the junction there? Or do I need to remove the entire block and start from scratch?
You can normally cut through the block without any issue.
Great clear concise video. Thanks for the no fluff content.
Kristopher, thanks for watching! Glad you found the video to be helpful
I forgot to screw the ground wire to the mounting bracket. I did everything else correct. Do I need to go back and redo?
Thanks for watching! Yes, you should go back and attach the ground wire to the mounting bracket. The ground is what trips the breaker in the event of a short circuit.
@@completepete Thanks so much!!
Great video! I love how you explain things. I was gonna say, the original installer really did put it in correctly, but then I noticed they only used two screws to mount the box, lol
Thanks for watching!
Good video! My ground wire is held in the mounting by a small bracket. When I disconnected it from the old fixture the wire broke right at the end. Can I attach an extender wire by pulling it out from the bracket attached to the box or should I attach another piece to the section where it comes out of the wall to the bracket?
Best bet would be to attach a new piece of copper to the ground wire coming out of the box. Then reattach to your fixture bracket
I'll be trying this is a couple days, after my sconces are delivered. I've pulled out one of the pair that were original equipment when the house was built 50-years ago. I am not seeing a ground wire, just black and white. Maybe I can dig out another wire tomorrow in daylight...but, what if there is no ground wire as I suspect may be the case?
BTW, I've watched several other videos on this subject and this is the best yet.
Thanks for watching! Lack of a grounding conductor is a common issue in older homes. You can check closely and you might find a ground wire wrapped around the cable jacket right where the cable enters the box. Years ago electricians wrapped the ground around the jacket under the clamp and tightened the clamp down. If you really don’t have a grounding conductor, just leave it disconnected in the box as it’s a secondary path for fault current. This would be the best you can do without rewiring.
On my way to change my front lamps right now. Thanks for the video,was very helpful👍
Outstanding presentation! I learned a lot! I have 5 outdoor fixtures that I want to replace. Many thanks for your help!
Thanks for watching Jim! Good luck with your project.
I am instaling a outdoor light fixture very simler to the one you instaled, the problem I have is the fixture mounting screws are 3 inches apart and does not go in the wall box openning. The wall is stucco finish and the round box openning measures 2 3/4 inches, Is there a remedy without tearing the old box out of the wall. You video is very informative. .
Thanks for watching Maruk! Two ways to solve this problem. One way is to mark where the bolt heads are hitting the stucco and using a masonry bit in a drill to drill into the wall to give space for the bolt heads to recess into. Second way is to use shorter bolts or cut the existing bolts shorter using this tool. www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-Crimper/1083479. One of these methods should work..
@@completepete Thank you for your quick response. I am choosing uour second method and i am adding spacers behind the universal plate so that the screw head have space, thanks again. Maruk
Awesome video! Thank you! Installed my porch and garage lights today after watching!
Thanks for watching Maritza! I’m glad you were able to install your lights successfully!
The light bulb install advice… never knew that. I’ll use that going forward.
Hubert, thanks for watching! Glad you found the video helpful.
Thanks for the great info. I learned a few things and am now confident going into my project.
Thanks for watching, Lou! Good luck!
Very good video. Getting ready to install my first light fixture and glad I watched this. Thanks
Thanks for watching Mary. Glad you found the video helpful. Take your time and be safe.. I’m sure it will come out great.
Great video. My old fixture has nest the size or avocado pit that a giant wasp is looking to move into. Immediate suspension of project! Man that thing is huge. At any rate... waiting for my hvac neighbor here in my condo community to see if he'll let me borrow his voltage meter tester. I don't trust the breaker. What I notice is that the old porch light doesn't have a ground wire but my new one does. Do I just wrap the copper wire around the little prong with the green dye on it?
Thanks for watching and good idea avoid that wasp nest! Most times there is a grounding conductor running along with the hot and neutral. If the fixture box is wired with steel jacketed BX cable or conduit, you would wrap the fixture ground around the green screw on the fixture bracket.
So many great tips in this video. Wish I'd seen it so much sooner.
So lets say I have a outdoor light fixture (concrete block stucco home) and I want to add a hard-wire camera about 20" above it. What would be the best way to tap into the power of the existing fixture?
Without seeing what you have. I’d say the only thing you can do easily would be to add weatherproof (bell box) extension. This would allow you to tap off the existing box. Of course that limits you to certain type of fixtures that will fit on the box.
www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-Metallic-Weatherproof-Extension-Ring-with-4-1-2-in-Holes-Gray-WRE450G/300847257
@@completepete Thanks....yeah came up with the same conclusion.
I have a similar set up with my old light on the vinyl box as you do. However, when I removed my old light, the hole was very small so I could not tell if there was an electrical box inside the vinyl box. I installed a new LED flood light but now thinking I should have double checked to see if there was a metal electric box inside the vinyl piece. Or does the external vinyl piece act as an electric box? Thank you.
Scott, thanks for watching! I’ve seen this issue you are talking about many times. Most often there is a box installed but the vinyl siding folks don’t take the time to cut the 4” circle in the block. Instead electing to make a small hole to push the wires through. Some siding blocks have an integrated box but it would be obvious. The third possibility is that there was a surface mount box there originally and it’s only a cable poking through the wall. It would be best if the fixture was attached to either a recessed box or a surface mounted pancake box and of course properly grounded. You may want to check a little closer to see if there is a box somewhere. Feel free to send a picture to CompletePete6@gmail.com if you are not sure what you are looking at.
I’ve never switched a fixture but I’m going to try to. This video was very helpful and I think I have the same new fixture from Lowe’s. Question: after I connect the fixture wires to the existing wires in the electrical box, do I need to make sure that the black and white wires do or do not touch each other or the ground wire or does that not matter? I’m terrified that I’m going to do something electrically wrong and start a house fire.
Sue, thanks for watching! I purchase that fixture from Lowe’s so most likely it’s the same one you have. When you make the wire connections, strip the wire to an appropriate length and properly install your wire nut. Typically it will be black to black, white to white bare copper\green insulated to ground. The conductor insulation (black,white,bare/green) can touch each other without issue. Only the bare copper conductors under the wire nuts (energized wiring) cannot touch. Once you install the three wire nuts, you can wrap electrical tape around the wire nut and conductor to make double sure there is no chance of anything touching. Take your time and of course make sure the power is off, all safety rules are followed and then just stand back and enjoy your handy work.. in that order. Good luck with your project
I have a mounting box that looks just like the one in your video. Unfortunately my new fixture needs a bigger surface to sit flush. Do you have a video changing the block/box out? Also my siding is hardyplank and the mounting box was cut into place it doesn't sit on top of the siding like the one in your video. Thanks for such a great video!
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I know that PPG makes primed light blocks for James Hardie siding in four sizes. Saw a 5/4” thick x 7 1/2” wide x 9 1/2” high on Home Depot’s website. You may need to cut off the existing block with a 4 1/2” angle grinder with a concrete wheel (wear a dusk mask and goggles). The new block can be attached with an exterior adhesive. Good luck with your project! If you run into trouble you can send pictures of your project to completepete6@gmail.com and I’ll help if possible
I have never changed a light fixture. You made it looked easy. I have an old fixture on my backyard that needs replacing. The new one I got looks similar to yours only smaller in length. I have subscribed so I can find your video for my upcoming little project. Question: Would silicon works in that gap you mentioned in your video?
Thanks for watching and I’m happy that I’m able to help in some small way. Any outdoor silicone or latex caulk will work and give you a good color match to your siding. Good luck with your project!
Thx for video. Is this considered wet location? I need to install gooseneck light on barn and wondering if I can use just a normal junction box that is recessed and attached to stud or brace… or even a pan box? What would best approach be to minimize hole in siding but have a nice flush fixture with no visible box?
I really like the old style gooseneck lights. I’ve installed them a few ways.. normally I bend the goosenecks out of rigid steel pipe and use a recessed steel box or if keeping with an industrial / farmhouse look I use a galvanized steel surface mount box that is used with rigid steel pipe. In your case, cutting in a metal box should be pretty easy and just fasten the screws right through the siding and into the plywood sheathing. No need to attach to a stud or brace unless the fixture and arm are very heavy. I have in some cases had to install a mounting clip above the gooseneck with a piece of 1/16” stainless steel cable for added support to prevent sagging. Hard to see and gives some support. Let me know if you need any support as you move forward with your project.
Nowadays most people use Ideal or WAGO wire connectors and I would use clear sealant caulk.
Awesome video. Like how thorough it was. Any idea how to install a new fixture into a vinyl block that the siders already put up - without the cutout done? All I have is a smooth block with the yellow romex sticking out of the middle.
Hi Jacqueline - thank you for your comment and for watching! I’m actually preparing to film a video doing this exact thing. What is your timeline for this project? If you need a more immediate answer, feel free to send me an email at completepete6@gmail.com with some photos and I can help.
What if your siding installer didn't bring the junction box out? Can I mount it directly to the mount block?? The junction box is still mounted behind new Tyvek, insulated board and Dutch lap with the wires coming out neatly through the mounting block center hole (approx 1.75" diam). I can see the box is a few inches to the side under the siding so I can't pull it out to the mount block. Not without popping siding off.
I think I’d install a metal extension box on the current box. www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-Steel-New-Work-Old-Work-Box-Extender-Electrical-Box/3127061. Lowes has a 1 1/2” deep version that might work. An electrical supply house may have shallower versions of the extension box. Hard to tell without photo.. by all means send some pictures to completepete6@gmail.com and I’m happy to weigh in.
Pete
great video! Question: Do I need to use electrical tape for the wire nuts?
You don't have to by code and I normally make sure the wire nut closed end is pointing up to keep water out. A wrap of tape between the wire and wire nut is even better to make sure the connection stays dry. Thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing!
@@completepete wow thanks for the speedy reply! Will try to do this install this weekend.
Hello bought a used mobile home and it needs work of course I need to replace outside porch/ exterior light do you just match the colors to connect sorry I don’t know anything about electrical work and wanna learn please help and your video is good 👍
Usually matching colors is typically ok. I would measure voltage between the black and white to confirm 120 volts. Then test brim black to ground to test that you have a good ground, should be 120 volts again. Finally neutral (white) to ground and you should have zero or milivoltage. Sounds like a lot but it’s really a very quick check. Good luck with your project!
The last thing you said on how to apply the caulking is super helpful. I was about to get the whole caulking gun out and try to it apply it that way.
Richard, not sure if you are subscribed to my channel.. I'm working on a number of DIY videos similar to this one that you might find interesting.
I'm going to be installing fixtures on existing blank vinyl mounting blocks. I see that box you're dealing with there is a cut-in switch box. How do you cut that vinyl mounting block to install the box? How deep is the switch box? I can see the cutout lines for a round box or a switch box I just don't know how to properly cut it and how much room will I have behind the mounting block to mount a box. Thanks
Hi Jack. The siding blocks are scored on the rear for round and rectangular boxes. If the block is installed as part of the siding (not removable). You will need to cut the block to insert the switch box. Trace the outline of the box, drill a series holes around the pencil line and score with a utility knife. I’d go with a 1-gang shallow metal switch box.. you will need to cut the wood sheathing for the switch box also. Depending on when you planned to do this work, I’d be happy to do a video showing exactly how to do it. Happy to help if you need some additional info.
Hi Pete, thanks for the info. I'm in no hurry and I would love to see how you do that (install a fixture on an existing vinyl block). The block I'm dealing with is part of the existing siding so I won't be able to remove it. I thought a shallow box might fit between the mounting block and the plywood sheathing. All I'd have to do then is cut the box out of the vinyl and just drill a hole in the plywood for the Romex. I think you're saying I have to cut the plywood too. Thanks again, Jack
Hey Jack.. I think you would need a very shallow box as the siding blocks are usually about 3/4” thick. Old work box’s are about 1 1/2” deep. Worst case you would need to drill a series of holes around the outline of the box and trim the little webs between the drilled holes. This will give you a bit of room to recess the box into the plywood if needed. You might be able to fit a round pancake box in there also. It probably best to take some good measurements of just how much room you have behind the block, even if you need to stick a piece of wire coat hanger in a gap to get a depth measurement. It sounds like you have this well in hand.. if I can be of any help please let me know.
Thanks for the help Pete.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Thank you for watching.
We are looking to change out our front light fixture and flag pole looking for these mounting blocks. Went to both Lowe’s and Home Depot and they had no idea what we were asking for! Any suggestions?
Nancy, I would suggest trying a vinyl siding contractor supply house. They will know what you need
And will have many colors to choose from.
Nice job. Lots of good tips. We would work well together. Where are you located?
Thanks for watching. Your channel has a lot of great content - feel free to send me an email and we can discuss! Completepete6@gmail.com
Very informative. Are mounting brackets pretty universal? Is it necessary to replace the mounting brackets or can the old ones be used?
Hi Rhonda and thanks for watching. The mounting brackets are fairly universal, some with adjustments for the mounting screws. I’d suggest using the new bracket that comes with your new fixture as its only held in place with two 8/32 screws. Good luck with your project!
@@completepete Thank you so much! I had bought two used coachlights that I really like, but I do not have the brackets they came with, I only have my existing brackets holding the lights that are already on my house.... I just noticed today that one of the aforementioned used light fixtures that I want to use as a replacement does not have a ground wire in it, so I am wondering if I should just ditch this whole 'reuse' idea and just buy new ones? It would be a shame because I really like these secondhand ones. I do have the ground wire that is coming out of the existing bracket from my house, so I wonder if I could just attach that to the pre-owned light fixture that does not have a ground wire?
Rhonda, I’d try to install the two used coach lights. I think you will enjoy seeing them every day on your way in and out. Amazon Carrie’s several types of universal fixture brackets that should work. The ground wire should loop around the green screw on your new fixture bar with a bit of a tail left. Amazon has a fixture ground wire available that might work. www.amazon.com/Satco-Ground-Wire-Lug-93335/dp/B005NWMN9Q
You may need to separate the fixture a bit to slide the ground ring over the 1/4” nipple that typically hold the fixtures together. Or perhaps there is a screw stud or lug somewhere on the fixture to connect onto.
Excellent video. Well explained with great video. So helpful to know the correct way to do this.
Thanks for watching Anna! Happy to help…
I think I can be able to replace my light fixture. However, I'm not clear when you refer to the "ground wire" and "neutral wire". Will they be color coded? How will I know which is which?
The neutral conductor will normally be color coded white. The ground is normally color coded green or may be a bare conductor.
Ran into issues installing mine in my old house so I came here. My mounting bracket screws will not tighten. They just keep spinning so I cannot level the bracket before install because the screws are angled in different directions.
Happy to help if I can. Are you referring to mounting the bracket to the box (metal or plastic)? Or mounting the fixture to the bracket?
I have two lights on either side of the garage I installed about a year ago. One has not been lighting up, I tried multiple bulbs, and checked the bulbs inside too and they work. I used a voltage tester in the socket and it is getting current the same as the other fixture when switched on. I tried pulling down the tab in the socket for a better connection with no success. Do you think I need a new socket?
Hi and thanks for watching. Usually there are a few possible issues with outdoor fixtures. Most issues are caused by a loose connection or corrosion . I’m curious if on the non-working fixture if you checked for 120 volt from the socket pin to ground and from the socket pin to the socket shell. You may have lost the neutral (white wire) connection which would also prevent the bulb from working.
@@completepete Thank you! If I had to guess I think it is probably the neutral loose. After watching your video I now know the best way to attach the two different styles of wires, extending the one slightly past so I will try that for a better connection this time. Wanted to cover all my bases before I took the fixture down again.
Happy to help! Stay in touch if you still need troubleshooting assistance
Yes loose neutral
I have a hang down lamp, one of 3 in my kitchen that keeps burning out bulbs. If it is because of a flattened tab that receives the bulb, is there a simple solution to fix the lamp or is it ruined?
Hi Sheri.. as you pointed out the problem is most likely the socket. You would need to turn off the power before starting. It would not be a bad idea to test for voltage at the socket with a meter before starting. I just stick my finger in the socket and pull up on the contact with my finger nail. Of course I'm a trained electrician with test equipment. You could also remove the fixture to perform the repairs.. if a socket is damaged, they are not difficult to replace. If you get to that point, I'd be happy to do a quick video on how to replace the socket. Something else to consider: bulb should be suitable to burn in the position you are using it in, vibration on floor above or garage door opener can cause the filiment to break (change bulb type), bulb might be incompatible with dimmer if one is used or the fixture wiring might be loose. It sounds like a lot but one thing at a time.
@@completepete thank you!
Thanks. Good video. I wish I had three arms when installing fixtures!
I have a question about the junction box you have there. Is the box secured through the mounting plate and then into the sheathing only or is there something else behind?
Sorry for the delayed response.. the GEM box in cut into the plastic siding block. There is also a hole in the plywood sheathing for the back of the box as it’s 2 1/2” deep. The metal box is screwed through the plastic and into the sheathing with 3” deck screws.
What is the plastic box in the vinyl siding at 4:28 called? I need to replace mine. Any info would be appreciated.
The common name is a siding Block. The one I’m working with goes on before the siding but they can be replaced by unzipping the siding with a tool.
www.homedepot.com/p/Malco-SideSwiper-Siding-Removal-Tool-SRT2/100098527
Other styles of siding are surface mounted and are sandwiched between the siding and the light fixture.
Happy to help, and thanks for watching!
Thank you! You shared every detail so well.
Thanks for watching! Happy to help.
I did the installation of my new fixture. I see there is power going to the fixture, but the bulb is not coming on. If I use a 60watt led ecosmart light bulb could that be the reason why it's not working?
Hi Ali.. You would want to confirm that you have 120 volt at the socket. That would be power at the contact and neutral at the socket shell (not just voltage at the contact) I would try the bulb inside in a lamp, could simply be defective. Try testing your bulb first, then the voltage next, then your wiring connections.
Does your light fixture have a built in sensor? Try to turn it on at night
Good stuff everything I needed to know from A to Z
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project.
Im totally not a home DIY guy...so, if the fixture switch is off its ok to do this? Or does the power at fuse box need to be turned off?
Fuse box! Most switches only turn off one leg of the power, not both.
I would always recommend ensuring that the power at your panel box is turned off for the circuit you plan to work on before you get started. An electrical meter (such as a Fluke T Plus Pro) will help you determine if you’ve successfully turned off the power.
I did it! Very well explained, thanks!
I’m glad to hear that this helped you! Thanks for watching, and good luck with future electrical projects!
Thank you for the Demo, very helpful.
Thanks for watching Brenda! Glad you found the video to be helpful. Stay tuned for the next one..
Thank you this video.. it helped me do my outside lights
Is this the same steps for the ceiling lamp in a bedroom?
Generally, yes the process would be similar for an interior ceiling lamp/light.
@@completepete thank you:)
Any suggestion on how to remove the mounting nuts which just spin and spin?
Hi Robert and thanks for watching! It sounds like the mounting bolts are spinning out along with the nuts. It’s possible to spin out the nuts enough to carefully grab the threaded part of the bolt with needle nose pliers and the nut with another pause of pliers to break them loose from each other. Might need a helper to hold the fixture. If just the nut is turning, spray a little penetrant on it and let it sit for a while (protect your siding from over spray) Grab the nut with needle nose and pull back while loosening. Hopefully one of these methods will work.
@@completepete I was able to remove the light fixture. Thank you very much for the suggestions Pete!
Happy to help Robert..
I think the gap is more the weight of the light I put up a brand new one today and mine has a small gap at the top too.
I agree 100%. That's where I usually put a very small amount of caulk.
Is it legal how box mounted thank you?
The box hidden behind the siding no. The surface mounted white box, yes.
Great tricks on the wire nuts! Just subscribed!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! It's appreciated.
Learned something today! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Rick and happy to help. As I get time, I’ll be posting more electrical related videos. Anything in particular you are interested in, let me know!
Great video.... lots of experience.... many great tips! Thx.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found the video to be helpful
Your new mounting ring is vertically offset from the center of the electrical box. It may be that the gap at the top of the fixture is due to the offset making it ride up on top of either the bracket or the underlying electrical box.
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you found it helpful.
How do I remove the big plastic square where the wires are coming out? I can’t get to the photo sensor connection behind it. I put a new light fixture up but it won’t work because the old photo sensor is still wired up.
The best way to remove the square is to score it with a sharp utility knife blade and knock it out. You can also drill a series of holes in the plastic very close together and cut out the webbing between the holes with your utility knife.
Excellent video Pete!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Do they make mounting blocks to level the fixture in wood? I need those! Thanks! Great video!
Thanks for watching Teresa.. glad you found the video helpful and hope you subscribed as I have more electrical diy videos on the way. I think 99% of siding blocks are vinyl. I did find these online www.dunnlumber.com/Store/Products.aspx?pg=2218&pl1=2418&sort=StockClassSort&direction=asc. They have some wood blocks that might work for you.
@@completepete, thank you so much for the quick reply!
Happy to help Teresa, good luck with your project!
Great, great video! Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching Jay! Happy to help..
Lots of great little tips (like Joe Accardo mentioned)! Working on replacing fixture now but it looks like I'll have to buy round mounting bracket because old one just has a flat one & cannot figure out how to attach new one, especially since new fixture has larger mounting bolts.
Roger, The mounting bracket that came with the fixture should work. If you like, send a couple photos to completepete6@gmail.com and I'd be happy to see what I can see.
What is that type of junction box called? Where can I purchase it?
It’s a metal old work box . Lowes has a RACO #560 / Lowes part #72442
@@completepete thank you
what is the name of the base of the Light that is in the Vinyl Siding thanks.
Thanks for watching Carlos! I think you are talking about the vinyl siding block that provides a flat surface to mount the fixture.
Thank you-your help was amazing!
I’m glad the video was helpful! Thank you for watching and good luck with your future projects.
Excellent video -- Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Thanks for being more detailed about it thanks again
Hi were can I buy the spirit level that you use please
Craig, I got my level fro an electrical supply house but you can get it from Amazon also.. it’s the Greenlee L107
www.amazon.com/Greenlee-L107-Electricians-Torpedo-Level/dp/B002NQQ9OK/ref=asc_df_B002NQQ9OK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309823018507&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14668082316983087350&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004850&hvtargid=pla-434238017470&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60862048799&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309823018507&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14668082316983087350&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004850&hvtargid=pla-434238017470
Nice video!!
Thanks for watching!
Very well done video.
Eric, thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing!