Відео

Clear Natural Look Low Gloss Transparent Latex Interior/Exterior Sealer (1-Gallon) www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Clear-Natural-Look-Satin-Waterproofer-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/1000380897

Sorry to hear. What do you mean by flex?

Thanks. Just looked up the Kremlin stuff, that’s some high dollar stuff right there.

@@TrueGritDevelopment yeah it is most definitely expensive, but when you’re running wide open as a cabinet business, they’re worth every penny.

Yes, similar installation. Contractors are infamous with not using shims. They usually want to go in/out as quickly as possible. It’s important to have the window level and square. Good luck.

They definitely come in handy. Mine is starting to chip on the inside, but doesn’t really bother me. Can always spray paint it too.

5/8-in x 8-ft Finished PVC Stop www.lowes.com/pd/Metrie-5-8-in-x-5-8-in-x-8-Ft-Unfinished-PVC-Stop/5003699139 These can be cut with a utility knife, so you can jamb it in and shave as necessary. I caulked after installation to seal all lines and gaps.

Sure. Grab a super soft bristle paint brush for the rails and stiles and use a cabinet roller (the white thin ones) for the flat surfaces. I also recommend cabinet grade paint. I have also used floetrol in the past to extend drying time, which allows the paint to spread more evenly. You may find it necessary to sand b/n coats (220 or finer sand paper). Hope this helps.

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

Haha…when you gotta paint, you gotta paint

Yes, but I’ll have a wet rag handy to clean crown right away in the event compound gets on it. Paint the compound to match ceiling.

Thank you 🙏🏼

Glad it was helpful! And thank you! 🙏🏼

Sure are

It’s not too bad. The boards make a big difference. Good luck 👍🏼

You can always sand them down and apply a grain filler to get a smoother look.

Thank you! After the grain filler do I paint again then apply the poly?

Yes. Did you sand between paint applications? Liquid brings up the wood fibers. You may want to sand first (light sanding), apply filler and then paint/poly

Are they too grainy? You can use grain filler (3 coats) and repaint. I have a video using grain filler.

Yes, very grainy! Thank you

Too late for sanding sealer. If you’re happy with the results, go ahead and finish them with the poly.

Sure you can, if you have space for it and don’t mind the look.

Yes, I would say they’re the ones you use for a lazy Susan cabinet. I haven’t installed these. Is this what you’re looking for: a.co/d/b1rmFrc

@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks for the Reply. I found it when I searched. But the hinge I'm looking for is for Inset type door and this one says overlay type. I don't think they make such concealed hinges.

These maybe a.co/d/6EXQSWV

@@TrueGritDevelopment this does say inset on the product title but reviewers say it's for half overlay and not for inset door. So once installed using a spacer to act as inset, it does not clear the space for the drawer movement. I think I'll have to give up on it.

That sucks. Maybe go into a furniture store and inspect or look online for furniture and find out what they used. Good luck

You are correct about the S strap. This was a replacement, no new plumbing was installed. In this case there was a vent pipe stack connected to the drain that went to roof.

No, because these are low voltage; however, it’s recommended you burry them.

Glad I could help! Good luck 👊🏼

Glad you like them!

Also wondering about your opinion on whether to take down the cabinet itself to strip paint or if you'd somehow leave them up to strip them while still on the wall

Glad you found the video helpful. I would leave the cabinets on the wall and strip them that way. I have to say I’ve had bad experiences with stripping paint so I’d be curious to know how yours turn out.

I’ve had mixed experiences with primer and found out that if you’re using good paint and the cabinets are sanded/unfinished, you will be fine without primer. It’s all about the prep work. It will take you hours to prep and a fraction of the time to actually paint, so be patient. There is no harm in using primer, if you feel the surfaces are not rough enough to accept the paint. As for the grain filler, I also have mixed feelings about it. Like I said, 3 coats would be better. I am experimenting with joint compound as a grain filler and I will be making a video on that too. My plan is to dilute the compound, so it self levels and fills all the grain. It will have to be painted right away of course. Good luck

Totally agree with you. In this case the grids were falling apart between the glass. I got a quote to replace the two slides for over 3k and it would take 3-4 weeks! Good point you make though, always check for replacement and repairs. Thanks for watching 👊🏼

Glad it was helpful! Love to hear that.

So, it’s optional. The idea is to hide any exterior gaps between the top of the window and the wall framing. You will find it’s very difficult to fit the window with the skirt because usually the gap is too small. What I ended up doing for some windows is cut out the one side of the trim, so you end up with an L shaped trim. With that, once the window is installed, you can fit one side and tilt in the other. I hope this isn’t too confusing. I do plan to make another video explaining that trim piece at some point.

Thanks. Anither question? Why aren't the sides of the frame original 2x frame? I am reducing the size of original window with 2x's should i go with another style windo, like new construction? I miss old hardware stores where you could talk in person over a sketch. The are so many variables. Appreciate your time.

Not sure I follow. You mean the window jamb is smaller than the framing? Usually the replacement window will detail whether it’s appropriate for 2x4 framing.

@TrueGritDevelopment it's a weird situation. All the windows are nice. The one in the kitchen looks like it came out of a 1970 trailer. I planned to add 2x4 to the bottom of the rough opening. There is no trim it will be like rough opening. 2x.

I dont know the proper terms. It will be a rectangular square opening. All flat and square. 2x4 rectangle. Im a skilled woodworker, machinist, and mechanical design engineer. But i am baffled on how to replace my crap window. Such an odd situation. I wish i could post pictures

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching 👊🏼

Ah man, sorry about that.

You need to block out your videos with a story board and at least the outline of a script. Better to show different camera angles with editing than physically jumping around and rapidly moving the camera and turning it on it's side.

Yea, that would be the ticket. Good input, I’ll try to work that into future videos. Thanks

That’s awesome. No issues at all with mine. The protective finish is key to extend the durability. These are unfinished cabinets, so the paint sticks better than previously finished cabinets. If you’re refinishing old cabinets, make sure you prime them good before applying paint for better adhesion. I did not think the paint. Good luck 👍🏼

@@TrueGritDevelopment thanks for the info! We are doing the unfinished stock cabinets from Home Depot. I’ve used that polycrylic on other stuff and it seems to work well.

It’s going to look great! BTW I’ve recently used the emerald paint from SW and it’s amazing, but soo expensive. Worth it since you’re saving on labor. Goes on super smooth.

Thank you!

I like Satin, but that’s a personal preference. I only use Satin.

Yep, just knock it out.

Thanks! 🙏🏼

Thank you 🙏🏼

My bad. I got some pvc trim from Lowe’s and finish nailed it then siliconed

Great tip. Which brand spray you recommend?

Never easy. Good luck, hope this works for you.

Thank you and yes I did. Good luck with your project 👊🏼

U bet. Good luck with your project 👊🏼

Thank you! 👊🏼

Maybe they bought a new construction window to use for a replacement window job?

Why are you replacing it?

Which part?

Glad it was helpful! Good luck 👊🏼

It’s indestructible, I’ve had it for ages and put it to work.

I love to hear that! Glad you found it helpful.

The flashing tape is meant to protect the corners and bottom framing from rot. The outside trim and silicone caulk is your primary line of defense.

@@TrueGritDevelopment the outside frame/trim is still higher than the wall framing and the bottom of the new replacement window. Water needs to be directed out and down, that is not accomplished here even with the outer snap on strip.

Thanks for watching 👊🏼