How To Install An Exterior Light And 3 Common Mistakes To Avoid
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 тра 2023
- Hire A Local Professional -thumbtack.57ib.net/c/1452141/...
Project Cost Estimator - everydayhomerepairs.com/exter...
All My Favorite Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/everydayh...
Installing an exterior light is an approachable DIY project for most homeowners. With that said there are 3 common mistakes I see homeowners make and I will help you avoid these issues to ensure you have a code-compliant and safe installation. Remember to always check your local codes as NEC code enforcement differs state-to-state and in some states even city-to-city.
Free Home Maintenance Checklist:
everydayhomerepairs.com/home-...
Friends Don't Let Friends Tape Outlets T-Shirt: everyday-home-repairs.creator...
Join Our Community on Patreon: / everydayhomerepairs
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Навчання та стиль
Hire A Local Professional -thumbtack.57ib.net/c/1452141/269257/4348?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thumbtack.com%2Finstant-results%2F%3Fzip_code%3D60172%26is_zip_code_changed%3Dtrue%26keyword_pk%3D102906937284094959%26search_bar_query_pk%3D483916374826835976%26encoded_answers%3DeyJzZl9wayI6IjQ3ODU3MzEwNzM2NDA1MzAwNSIsImFucyI6eyI0IjoiNjAxNzIifX0%253D%26project_pk%3D483916393223897099
Project Cost Estimator - everydayhomerepairs.com/exterior-light-installation-cost/
All My Favorite Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs
What you wanted in that application is a vinyl siding box. It would replace the vinyl block. What you want is the version for after the siding is already up (the back will be shaped to form with the siding).
what is the result of a code violation?
@@amiga2025 re: "What is the result of a code violation?"
Fine in best case, fire in worst. Plus bad karma for putting nextdoor neighbors at risk, too.
I have a couple more tips:
1) If your light fixture is missing a gasket, you can take clear 1/4-in tubing and cut a slit in it lengthwise, then run it around the perimeter of the fixture. This works for a lot of traditional light fixtures made of pressed metal.
2) Consider using waterproof wire nuts for outdoor uses like this for extra protection. These usually have a silicone sealant inside the nut that prevents corrosion.
Hi, Scott. Great idea for a video. I am reluctant to point out problems, but I know you're open to suggestions.
1. Running a wire into a metal box unprotected is a big no-no and code violation. You need a Romex connector, either metal or plastic that can act as a strain relief. The wires can rub and short out on the box.
2. Leaving open knock-outs in a box is also a no-no and a code violation, since the box cannot effectively contain sparks or even fire. Better to use a new box.
3. More an installation detail: I would have removed the square vinyl mounting block to cut it out. This would have allowed you to inspect the wire where it penetrates the wall and made cutting the block easier.
4. You noted that you want a waterproof seal on the fixture, but it is left with a gap to the mounting block. I think this is because the mounting screw bottomed out on the siding before pulling the fixture tight to the wall. I would use a 1.5" deep box and cut the vinyl side behind the box, so the box would be tight to a solid surface. This would also allow you to enlarge the hole where the wire comes through the wall to accommodate the Romex connector. With a deeper box, the mounting screw would NOT bottom out. If you were concerned about making this fixture weather-tight, you could caulk around the top half of the fixture, leaving the bottom open for drainage. Because the fixture is so close to the overhang, I'm not sure caulking is necessary.
5. EDITED: The Romex sheathing needs to extend inside the box at least 1/4". Otherwise, the entire wire needs to be replaced, if too short. In your video, we can't see the end of the Romex sheathing.
I appreciate your videos and have learned many good ideas from you.
100% agree with # 1, 2, & 3. Regarding #4 "Because the fixture is so close to the overhang, I'm not sure this is necessary," what is "this" referring to? The bottom open for drainage or any caulking?
@@arthendrickson4860 - edited to specify "caulking"
Hi Bruce, Thanks for the feedback. For #1 I did have a plastic insert to protect the romex from being cut on the metal but it was missing the strain relief tabs. Yeah, #2 is tough when using the 5/8" pancake box and needing clearance for the mounting bolt. Really appreciate you taking the time and providing all the detailed comments. Take care.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs - I see the black insert now. Unless the Romex is stapled within 6" of the box, the insert alone won't be enough. Given that they installed the original light without a box, I doubt the wire is adequately stapled. To be safe and to code, I'd put a Romex connector on the box.
Would a tight friction-fit grommet/insert meet the requirement or does the connector need to be tighten-able?
Love this video.
First of all, I believe this is a video to help DIYers, not to teach electricians how to do their jobs.
From my experience, the majority of these DIY installation I've come across are, in some way, not strictly to code, or to electrician standards.
But somehow they survived and have worked years and years, and without burning any house down to my knowledge.
For me the most crucial issue is how well this installation is weather proof in preventing rain from coming into the house.
Anytime a hole is cut in the exterior, you must make sure to do no harm to the house.
Get yourself a 4" piece of small-ish chain with an S-hook on either end. You'll almost always be able to find somewhere on both the light fixture and the J-box to attach to, allowing the light to hang freely and safely while you make your electrical connections and handle your tools. I find it especially helpful when I'm more than a step or two up a ladder, or installing large, cumbersome or awkward fixtures. :)
Recent light fixtures (LED typically) came with a 4” piece of cable and small carabiner type clip to hang it while making wiring connections. Love the concept. Large fixtures usually needed two people to get it up close to the box to connect to.
Good tip, but I prefer to let my arms get tired and then yell angry nonsense at my wife or the cat, whoever is closest.
Seriously though, going to take you up on this tip.
A short bungee cord also works well for this.
Chain sounds pretty hardcore. I'd just use a bungee or something to hold that box up while I was working on it. Take your belt off. Something. Make a strap out of electrical tape.
@@1pcfred most guys use a stainless fishing leader about 6” long for most fixtures.
I just did a lot of updates to a 1970s house a family member just moved in to, and the Wago lever nuts were so incredibly helpful and allowed me to fix numerous wiring issues that you simply couldn't do with conventional wire nuts. And using the Wago for ceiling lights and ceiling fans makes me wonder why anyone uses anything else. They are simply better in every way. Thank you so much for introducing me to the Wago and showing how to correctly use them.
They lack the durability and low price of wire nuts. On a big job, the price difference is fairly significant. They're also unnecessary to make solid/stranded connections if you know how to properly do them.
@@philhouk3330just because something's expensive European and easier for DIY doesn't mean that it's always better, in my opinion if you want to properly install a wagi you tape the levers down so that they don't move on you when you're moving the wires. Now the end-to-end wago now that's something cool
Thank you, this video has been so helpful! We recently replaced our siding and decided to change out the old outdoor light fixture. There was no junction box, so I wasn't sure how to approach this. This was perfect and showed me clearly what I needed to do. And thanks for the tip on the Wago Lever nuts!
Excellent video, thanks for doing this. Outdoor lighting or outlets is something I've struggled with in the past. To me it seems there are products that just don't fit or work or are not compatibility with other parts. I wasn't sure what to use once, I couldn't get the info on what to do. So I used one of those pancake boxes it worked well. I just built a home and I used adjustable outlet boxes with weather tight covers so I can move it out so I can get a good caulk bead around them. That worked well but remodeling always has it's challenges.
I watch tons of (software) programming how-to videos, and I have to say your DIY videos are "up there" with the best of them. :-) You do not just show-and-tell, you anticipate other perspectives, and you take steps to "reduce the scope" (confidence boosting for viewers with no or little foundation in your material). I think yours is the only channel I am subscribing to for the DIY topic.
That said, please heed the sparky comments about their code concerns on this one (stapling the wire near fixture box, no bare wires leading into box, etc). This might be an opportunity to revisit one of the installs and show how to do those improvements, even if they were not required code in your area.
Great timing! Was about to install a new fixture on my vinyl siding and need that mounting block!
Replaced my outdoor fixture with an LED motion sensing fixture a couple years ago... Found exactly what you did, no junction box! A house built in 2012 should not have had this issue! So, I did the same thing as you did - installed a pancake box, and brought it up to code while installing the new fixture. Glad you confirmed what I suspected when I pulled the old fixture... I feel better now, knowing it's done correctly.
Another great video. Sometimes it's the simple things that matter. I have to change a light just like you demonstrated. I've done it many times but it always bothers me to wire it up, and then let the light hang until I can get situated to mount it. I always check the wires after the light has hung. And I love WAGOs. While changing my light, on a ladder, and juggling tools, I can let the WAGOs do the work. So, it's a simple idea, but it's profound. Thank you for your videos. As an avid DYIer, I thought I knew a lot. Your videos have shown me there's a lot yet to learn.
I never ever hang things by the wires. Use 550 cord and metal S hooks to hang the item from. The hooks can attach to the box and the cord is tied around your item you are installing. Or I've also just strung the cord through an opening in the box then tied it around the ceiling fan to hold it while I put my wires together. Use an easy to untie knot that is secure and you can untie with one hand and lift the light into place.
These videos are garbage, showing people the wrong way to do electrical work all of them.
@@brianw3415 Good practices.
Your comment tells me that you need to call a professional...there's a lot of things wrong with this video. This guy probably means well,but he should not be giving advice on electrical work.
40 years ago I put a sensor light on my mom's porch.
It's still works. if I had the replace it. I'd be lucky to get 5 years.
It got creative and took the sensor and electronics and wired it into the existing fixture on the ceiling of the porch. All amounted was the sensor. Made for a nice sleek installation.
Thanks for the tip about the pancake box! I have been wanting to put in some exterior lights but didn't want to put large holes in the exterior wall. This seems to mitigate that. 👍
That Eufi light assembly will make a perfect nest location for robins. They prefer a covered area.
I just installed some exterior lights and used Wagos. It was an amazing experience.
👊
WAGO's are a fire hazard.
@@randyscrafts8575 For real? Why?
@@weekendhomeprojects @weekendhomeprojects Like the push in connectors on the back of the receptacles there is a very small contact point between the wire and connector that heats up as amps go up. I've replaced many melted receptacles over the years, mostly because of the push in connections. WAGO is newer but connects using the same principle. I believe Steve here, did a video on it, may have been someone else, that showed they do heat up. Some say the WAGO or similar push in/clamp in connectors are good. I know what can happen. I won't take that chance and warn others not to use them. They are good for low voltage low amp but 110/120, nope. I won't use them.
Wow I have been following your channel for a while now, but this is the first time clicking on your website. It’s amazing to say the least !!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks for the video. I am rebuilding my childhood home and had an electrician doing all of the electrical. He’s on a vacation (founded by the state 🤦♂️) so I am left with a bunch of little things to do. One is outside lighting. This shows me the mounting way I need to use. The last video of yours I watched showed me the connector to use. I picked some up today but they are not exactly the same as yours. I searched your links and didn’t see the ones you recommended 🤷♂️
Great video, you did a better job than I would have. The hardest part for me is getting the old fixture down, all the fasteners are usually corroded. I grease up the hardware when reconnecting, maybe some electrician's grease on the wires as well. Next time it comes right apart even if the gasket leaks.
Fasteners screws should be brass. However that might cost a bit more into lamp manufacturing costs and would lower the profit by 10 cents and that is the issue. Poor manufacturing is the issue. Fixtures should have required national standards. But intransigence by congress will get nothing done. Probably crap from China?
@@glendavis1266 The cheap US made lights were some kind of "pot metal", the fasteners were brass if you were lucky. Usually not. Cheap China fixtures are usually plastic and the fasteners are going to be steel, plated if you're lucky.
My girlfriend has been buying some kind of US made lights at a big box store but I'm not optimistic. They assemble with small screws which are silver colored and easy to lose. I bet they're NOT stainless!
I love this video, thanks for making it. What about situations where your light fixture is larger than the vinyl mounting block? In my case, I have a large rectangular exterior light sitting on top of a smaller square vinyl mounting block. The bottom of the light hangs off.
GREAT JOB SCOTT👍…for obsessive people who want to match their siding or fixture…spray paint them and let them dry first 💚💚💚
thanks for the video. Do you have any video showing how to run cables under the vinyl/siding?
Would like to see a video w/ your experience with that particular smart outdoor camera. I’m considering getting a few myself
I have brick and used the metal exterior boxes to (re)mount all my outside lights... but I also cut and installed a short piece of conduit that screws into that hole in the back to provide a "path" through the brick (with a plastic relief at the end to keep the wires from chafing). I don't like the possibility that the romex might rub against the brick.
I also run a bead of silicon around the box and fixture, leaving a 1/4" gap at the bottom to seal the rain out and provide a small drain hole just in case water does get behind it.
Thank you SCOTT for another great video. My home has double 5 inch vinyl siding. I looked on Amazon for mounting blocks did not find exactly what I needed for remounting coach lights on either side of my garage. Any ideas on where to get the proper vinyl mounting blocks?
Excellent DIY video! Thank you so much for educating us here on UA-cam. Your electric ⚡️ DIY knowledge has helped me a lot! Keep up the amazing videos!
His electrical knowledge needs much to be desired.
I love the wago's. way easier to work with. and as long as you do the pull test at the end to check for a solid connection you're good. plus they all have a handy strip gauge on the side.
I also take photos of when i do the wiring before and after so i can compare and check later to make sure i didn't miss anything
You can't have open wires going into the box. They can rub against the edges of the knockout and you might get a short to ground. The Romex should be pulled out a little and held in the knockout with a clamp. Also, check the neutral with your non-contact detector. There might be miswiring somewhere.
He did put a clamp on there.
He used a plastic insert to protect the wires. Generally the NM should be clamped to the j-box, as you stated. I don't know if the plastic sleeve is code, but I don't think it will blow up.
Using a no contact detector is always a bad idea.
@@mae2759 It has to be on the sheathing.
@@RadioRich100 When I watched the video I didn't see conclusive proof that there was available slack to allow some sheathing to be pulled into the box. I would have liked a deeper box, but then you run the risk of opening a hornet's nest of creating a bigger job when all someone wants is a new light hung. The problem was the initial install - and perhaps that the products commonly available on the shelf for both electrical, siding, and outdoor lighting could be better designed to avoid issues.
WOW! Cool. I plan to replace 2 (eave) floodlight fixtures with eufy units like that. Already bought the wagos from your link. They will make working overhead much easier.
For sure, it makes a BIG difference. Best of luck on the installation 👍
Thanks for this info and instructions! Much appreciated!
Best wishes!!!
I found an example of an even worse exterior garage light installation on the home we bought in 2019. ;-)
The previous homeowner had run a three-wire (grounded) extension cord from an outlet inside the garage, across the inside wall, through the interior and exterior walls of the (uninsulated) front of the garage, and into the back of an exterior-mounted security light above the garage door. There was no caulking around the holes and only about 3 inches of the extension cord's sheath had been pulled back to connect to the fixture's wiring inside the housing. The fixture was mounted directly into the stucco with drywall screws that HAD been caulked. (The cheap plastic-housing fixture had ceased to work before we bought the house.)
Needless to say, the holes were closed up and the old fixture removed. We ran a new 14/2G Romex line to that point above the garage door into the back of a caulked pancake box as part of replacing 90% of the original (1956) wiring. (The extension cord was pulled out, repaired, and is now back in service as an extension cord.)
The video was very informative and appreciated. It would be helpful to me if you could extend the light installation to show connecting the wiring to an existing circuit breaker or other location and how to route it to the installation area.
Good video. Thank you for sharing.
Question: Is it code compliant to use a pancake box outdoors in this kind of situation? I know the box itself is not weatherproof. I’m just wondering if there is an exception in the NEC that allows pancake boxes to be used outdoors this way. If not, I wish someone would manufacture a UL listed weatherproof pancake box for this kind of application.
Great demonstrations. For me working on light fixtures is awkward because one hand holds the fixture leaving only one hand to do the wiring. So, I start by wrapping the fixture's ground wire around the bracket to take the weight of the fixture, and then can use both hands to do the rest of the work.
A short bungee cord also works well to hold the fixture while you're connecting the wires. Attach the bungee cord ends to the box screws.
Love your amazon home repair store everything's in one place.
Very informative video. What about the gasket in the new fixture? There is some space so won’t moisture and debris get in? Thks
Its a good practice too check the neutral and ground circuits for power also....
Nice video. You should make it a habit of connecting your ground first then your neutral and hot last. It assures that you have a positive connection to the panel before you hook up the hot despite the fact the power is off.
Changes I would make, use dielectric grease in the wagos to protect the connection from moisture/corrosion (don't think they are rated for damp locations, at least then they should be ok, there's not enough room in there to use wago's gelbox), use some kind of sealant (silicone or any other outdoor/wet/UV rated product) on the wall block and around the fixture on the top and sides leaving the bottoms somewhat open to breathe out any mosture that gets inside (i know in this case it is less likely water will get in from being under the overhang, but some always does, and i never trust those seals provided by the fixture). Done better would be to cut in a proper box in the wall to bring it up to code making sure eveything is properly strapped/secured and water proofed, never like seeing those shallow boxes outside like that directly attached to the outside of the wall, whenever i see them they are rusting from moisture and corroded connections (and yes usually mounted to a brick wall with no sealing around it).
good point - I guess wrapping the wagos in electrical tape and position them pointing up ( wires coming bottom) might also help to keep water from trickling in
the regular silicone has ammonia and is corrosive to wiring.
So at my old townhouse that we bought new in 2000, I was going around doing all of the diy things before we sold it. I shut off the power and verified that it was off to the outside porch light. And right there….. no junction box and no gasket! We had never changed it in 20 years. I took it off and took pictures then swapped it out for a new one. I put everything back the way it was but I did put a bead of outdoor silicone all around to make sure it was good and sealed. When I got up the ladder I saw that water had leaked in. I just didn’t want to leave it worse than when I was there. Now I see that I should have had a junction box! This was a brand new town home! There were so many little things that I wondered if they were to code. I added extra things and even hand wrote out what every breaker went to because sometimes the same breaker would turn off an outlet in two rooms but not the switches.
Instead of putting "a bead of outdoor silicone all around," leave the bottom open for drainage of water possibly leaking in.
Right. My home in 2006 didn't have boxes to any exterior lights. Newer may require it by code. Every year codes change. Now, if your business is repairs, you can try to repair to current code but is it necessary? Most folk will be concerned with a simple change fixture for a few bucks vs a professional charging a couple hundred bucks.
I believe some fixtures can also serve as a junction box, but only if the manufacturer lists it in the instructions.
Thanks for the video. I do everything myself. I am a Union Steamfitter but built most of my own log home in 1990. I would have used the opportunity to clean the siding with a some window cleaner or something. Everything else seemed great in your video. I have yet to buy some wagos but am looking forward to trying this method as it seems much more secure. Peace
Thanks for the feedback!
With all due respect if you are a union guy you should be hiring union labor to do this work, I bet you would throw up a picket line if I was doing steam fitting work and you knew it, besides if you thought this was done properly it is proof that you should not be doing electrical work.
@@integr8er66 there are no union steamfitters doing residential work where I live. I have been in picket lines but only over industrial work
Clear, concise, and well done, thank you.
Thank you for teaching me so much--I recommend your channel to every home owner.
Awesome, thanks so much for the support 🙌
@@EverydayHomeRepairs my Dad was an electrician and he passed away a few years ago. I just recently purchased my house. I changed every outlet in my house with commercial grade, updated all the light switches, and changed a few light fixtures. I learned how to do this all from your channel. I know my Dad would be so proud. Thank you so much!!
Many mounting blocks have built in pancake boxes. Take a look at the Arlington blocks: 8141F "Mounting block with built in electrical box for smooth vertical mounting of light fixtures on all siding types." Or the 8131 "Siding mounting kit with built in electrical box. 6.8 cubic inch box."
Another excellent video. Thank you very much. I took some good notes that will help me with my project.
I love the Wago lever nuts ! I always learn something new from your videos !😎
If your smart you wouldnt get advise from this guys videos. Too much wrong information.
Another fantastic video. Thank you for sharing
I'm all good doing the electrical myself thanks for sharing that information about gang Box and code
Thank you for the video.
Question: the wire fill issue associated with pancake boxes aside, are pancake boxes rated for outdoor use?
They're not, I think. I don't even think romex can be used outside (damp locations)
Nice video you answered my question on what size electric box to get to make it set flat against my mounting block now I am just going to make one trip to the store Thanks lol
Don't jinx yourself 😁
I have used the larger outside box you show, but I struggle with the strain relief/clamp in the back. I have installed the romex clamp inside the box, instead of on the back, but it is very awkward.
Thanks for the awesome electrical vid!
I installed one of those eify lights, and those shallow boxes never make it easy. I was glad the kit came with multiple length screws, though.
very nice video, well done. i am learning! appreciate the good explanations, easy to understand. thank you!
Nice great video we used to install sliding & those plastic mounting blocks were it no junction boxes. Your job is very neat & clean. It might not be upto code who cares.
Wanted to upgrade exterior lights in house i bought. Exterior Shed light just a hole in wall for wires. Deck lights missing junction box. Back garage door light not wired, housing covered. Front garage sconces x2 had romex into garage loft not tied into a circuit. Parking area has a finished ceiling with 2 light fixtures. The loft above, accessed via ladder, is partially covered with 4x8s lying on joists. I'm partial to motion sensing lights on the front too and will probably tie them into a switch inside the garage. Is there a proper way to route the romex over to a junction box in the loft (staples, drilling, etc)?
Excellent, thank you!
I'll look at Wago's going forwards but....when I need to wire-nut stranded and solid wires together, I've found that making a slight (20 degree?) kink/bend in the solid wire gives something better for both the stranded wire and the wirenut to attach to.
It's really cool how the vinyl mounting blocks have the backs cut to match the siding! I wouldn't have known that a junction box is required for code. I would have likely just replaced the new unit that same way the old one is mounted. I have a brick house and would rather use the mounting blocks with a pancake junction box inside rather than the thicker exterior box. I have siding in some places and I'd be afraid that smashing it to mount the junction box would distort the finish near the block, so I would trim the the siding circle out to the wood or whatever underneath and mount the pancake to that. For the bricks on my house, I would cut the pancake hole and mount it inside the mounting block to keep the light flush. I'd spray paint the mounting blocks to match the red brick as best as I could and use black fixtures instead of white, but that's me.
I agree that the WAGO connectors would be a great timesaver while making the work safer to complete, especially mating stranded wire to solid. It looks like you forgot to include your Amazon link this time. Do you have a motion sensor light without a camera in your store? I want several to light my security system outdoor webcams because their night vision sucks. Solar or electric would be fine, but I think I would like LED panels. I had considered traditional motion sensor flood lights and using GE LED flood light bulbs because they're easier to replace and shine very far, so I'll compare the prices in your store. Thanks, Scott. Code lesson learned.
This was so helpful thanks so much, great video
Some of these light fixtures come with a temporary hanging hook, or you can make one yourself out of a wire coat hanger. Make it into an s-shape and use it to hang the fixture to the j-box. Now both hands are free to assemble the wiring.
Good tip on the WAGOs, and connecting them to the stranded fixture wires first means the easier connection is while holding everything up in the air.
An idea that might be helpful, is to take a stiff wire and make a hook (or use an 'S' hook from the hardware store) to hang the fixture off the electrical box while you connect the wiring. That is easy to unhook and screw it into place when ready.
would you use a different box if say you were adding a light outside (also on vinyl) ?
A pancake box is not rated for outdoor surface mount use. It's not waterproof. It can be used recessed in masonry only. So that is not suitable.
Also, and this is more personal preference; integrated lights are terrible in concept. If one component fails eg one LED you need to replace everything. Better to use a fixture with standard screw in bulbs that is LED compatible. Not only can you replace individual failed components but you can tailor lumen output; making one LED that faces your bedroom window ie half as bright as the one aimed across the driveway or rear property line.
That's a eufy security camera and not just a set of led light banks. I don't think anyone makes a camera setup that uses regular screw in bulbs. It has a good enough warranty so I'm not worried about an led going out on my own one. By the time the leds fail I'll likely want a newer improved camera anyways. It's only a 30 ish minute removal and install so not bad once every 3 to 5 years.
How close to the eve can you mount outdoor fixtures? Some fixtures require you to have a certain amount of space because the fixture and eve for cooling or to keep the eve from getting to hot.
Thank you! Do you have a link to the pancake box? I'm not finding 5/8" ones, but might not be looking in the right place. I found 1/2" but am not sure if that is deep enough. I need to replace a broken exterior light that wasn't ever installed properly (junction box was wrong type and put in backwards). Additionally, the exterior door does not have a proper header and I will need to install one-- which will make it so I can't have a junction box inside. The pancake box on the outside inside a mounting block looks like the perfect solution.
question I have the mounting block already but I bought a bigger led light that is more of a rectuangular shape.... there is a junction box.... but now when I finished installing the light it hangs at a diagonal and there know way to silicone the outside because it isn't flight because the shape is now different. is this a code violation? I want it to hang straight flush straight but don't really care it still looks great.
Did that backing block come already notched for the 4" siding? I usually caulk the top and two sides.
Yes
What camera do you recommend for soffit mount? Can you do a video on soffit mount installation.
What kind of mounting block would you use if you were mounting to a stucco surface?
Quick little heads up for people who are specifically concerned about code. Those pancake boxes are oftentimes against code as you actually have restrictions on how many conductors of each size compared to the internal volume. Electrician U made a great video about this topic.
Was coming to say the same thing.
Great point! I would say though, aside from code, if a temporary solution is going to be done, then the pancake box is definitely better (safer and more solidly fixed) than what was there before. That vinyl cover is not strong enough to mount a light fixture - super dangerous! I think ideally would be to cut into the sheathing through the vinyl and put a real box drilled into the side of a stud, but that's a little more involved.
@@marcbrazzers I don't disagree. Heck, I didn't say anyone should do anything different. I just figured since the video talked about code some people watching might actually want to know that.
He is not an electrician
Pancake box is only compliant if it’s the end of the run, as too much conductor fill is not to code
I’ve never seen one of those mounting blocks before but I have an exterior light that can use one. I sealed the gaps with silicone but I’m going to look for the blocks so I can fix it right and also for a couple more lights I need to install. Thanks!
Me too ! I looked everywhere for them I guess I wasn’t using the correct words. Hopefully now I can find these blocks
Menards Big Box stores have them in different colors. Also online if you dont have one near you.
You mentioned of an upgraded ufi integrated exterior security light and 360 camera in one unit. So I would like to know where this can be gotten as I do not have the total info on this. Second is it activated with a motion sensor and is it available with a solar panel to avoid additional wiring etc.? How will it transmit the security images?
Don't you want to use any silicone to cover the Left, Right, and Top edges of the mounting surface? Leave the bottom open so water can escape? I have seen a lot of folks get water intrusion and damage because they didn't have the gasket... but the backup of caulk around the edges made intrusion harder to occur.
Also what about checking that wiring to see if it is correctly run inside EMT or other safe ways
Great video. Thanks
At 4:40ish you mention an outdoor work box. They work great with 4 inch fixtures but so many fixtures today are 5” or bigger like the one you’re installing here. Can you buy an adapter plate or just modify a mounting block like you did to fit a pancake box?
Wire nuts are fine. Wagos are just easier. As other commenters have mentioned you’ve got the connect the ground first and let the fixture hang. Then you can complete your wiring. But no doubt the wagos appear to be faster.
The Two big mistakes I see on outdoor lighting, is this. The Flood Light has a “U” Bracket and a SJ Cord from the Light to junction box. The other one is 120 VAC String Lights for a Deck. Both are against Codes here. The reason Holiday Lights are permitted, is they are Temporary, add actually have time limits on them. You are allowed low voltage string lights and low voltage rope lights.
You can use 550 cord to hang items while you do the wring.
Junction boxes are code because the most likely spot for wire arcing and overheating is the fixture and splices. The junction box can halt the spread of fire; and also protect the wires from UV and weather.
Thank you!
Any suggestions for 6 inch aluminum siding?
Thanks for the info!
You bet 👍
Are pancake boxes rated for outdoor use? Some models at Lowe's have responses of "no" in the Q&A section when asked about using them outdoors.
Thank you very much, it's really help.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
You bet!
I have already put my old one up probably was 3 years ago. But am gonna switch it to a solar powered motion light instead of it keep sucking up electricity each time a neighbors dog or bird goes by it.
But i noticed having any bright night lights on just gives the other people up to no good easier viewing around the yard so i keep ours off
Unless company is coming over then turn it on when i leave i leave the lights off outside most of the time if someone unwelcome walks up the solar powered lights come on through out the yard
So keep night lights on at night isn't always good
i noticed that some of the square plastic plates come with their own "electric box" molded into it. Are those ok and code compliant? Not sure a metal steel box is the best choice if it is a humid area.
Thanks!
Couple of things, probably mentioned before, but I can't read all 500+ comments:
- I did see people comment on the Romex into the box problem, so skip that.
- Your pancake box compresses the vinyl siding beneath it, which is likely to make the siding's seam fail, either from flex or from temperature expansion / contraction. Better to cut the circle out of the siding beneath the block, too, and maybe to use a deeper box as a result.
- As long as you're right there, check ALL the wires for current. I can't even say how often I've gone to change a light fixture somewhere and found it was wired wrong. A wire that isn't supposed to be hot can still kill you real easy.
I've been known to use a shortened Bungee cord to act as a 3rd hand if I can loop or hook to the fixture.
Many lights/fixtures have lanyards: use ‘em!
Great video I enjoyed it
Great info, thanks.
You bet!
Tip you never wear any kind of rings while performing work. Many years ago we had a foreman supervise in unloading a stack body truck. After we were finished unloading the truck he caught his metal wedding band on top of a stake and pulled his finger off. A few months ago read that a 4" pancake box with a romex connector is actually illegal because but it does not provide enough cubic inches for even a 14/2 piece of romex. While at a continuing education class the talented well respected electrical inspector told us that romex is never permitted to enter the rear of ANY outdoor electrical box because the NEC states that type NM cable ( romex ) is not approved for damp or wet location. Told bus to use UF cable.
The bigger issue is the box rusting out, strike 1. I have up lights that constantly are hit by the irrigation system. They were originally lights marked that the were not to be pointed above horizontal. Strike 2. The box screws rusted themselves to the box, so those got replaced with anchors in the mortar surrounding the box. Plus, it’s NM cable feeding the box from the rear, so strike 3.
I think that the gray plastic connector/strain relief/bushing is installed backwards in the pancake box. In its current configuration, it allows the wires to be pulled out of the box by someone working on another part of the circuit. It looks like the connector is pushed into place from the inside of the box. I think that for proper placement, it should be pushed into the pancake box from the backside of the box.
very helpful thank you
Our ceiling fans came with a hook to hold the fixture while making the connections, with wire nuts. A short length of chain will do the trick, as well.
I checked everything is good to download.
For all exterior devices I prefer water tight wire nuts when needed. The wago's are no more water tight than the standard wire nut.
I changed for the first time an electrical outlet and, even if I turned off all the electricity in the whole house, I was so nervous lol. I am trying to learn more so I can do small repairs since professionals can change a lot by just changing a light like the one in the video.
I just mounted a led fixture on my stick built shed. Ran the wires from the fixture into the shed and mounted the junction box inside.
No gasket on the eufy fixture?