It's rare too see video's that are about this subject and not try to sell you anything! Thanks for helping us out! We are all in the same boat, against the big corp.
Thanks for the comment. I have also tried joint compound for this technique (it is a little cheaper). Most times the joint compound is fine, but when there is very high detail painting of the text, I think the plastic wood is best.
Hi Rob, thank you so much for these tips and tricks, I've wanted to do some song sheets just as you show and often wondered how to go about it cleanly. This looks to be an Amazing technique, no pun intended. I will surely give this a try, it really does look amazing, thanks for the tips, love it, awesome and excited. Andrew
Great job. I saw this video once before I already had the like on it so will see if it gets you extra credit for liking again. I had forgotten about this technique. Guess I should give it a try but the idea of getting my fingers "icky" probably scarred me away. You spoke about bleed. if you first applied shellac or another sealer before applying the black paint would you still have the bleed worry? Not sure about how that would interact with the plastic wood putty. Also, when zeroing your bite do you do this before applying the wood putty, do you leave a spot that has been skinned and no putty applied, how do you do this to ensure you're carving from zero at the actual wood surface? Thank you for any insights.
Hi Rob. With the putty technique, and wood like maple, I have not had any problems at all with bleed. For porous woods like oak, then I would put down shellac before paint. I always keep an area clear of the putty to zero the bits.
Have you tried spraying a some polyurethane or shellac or something to seal it before painting to help with the bleeding issue you mentioned and allow you to use more viscous paints? You seem to have done just fine with the thick paint as the finished project looks great - but if a thinner paint would be easier to work with, that might be one solution. Love the idea though and am looking forward to giving it a try for myself soon. Great work!
Great idea! But I assume that you zero the Z for the 45 deg to the surface after the shaving. Then you apply the wood filler. Is that a correct method?
Yes - it is important to get the correct z height. I actually skimmed a bit extra to the right side where I did not cover with the putty, and I zeroed there, but your idea would work just as well.
Awesome. I have considered using VCarve and have played with the trial version. It is impressive but a little expensive for me. Could you simply select the entire work area and tell it to convert to bezier or did you have to go in and do small sections or each item? I bet that was tedious if you had to do that.
I found it on a facebook group - I think it was "CNC Tips, Tricks and Project Finishing". Let me know if you can't find it, and I will email it to you.
The wood was basic soft maple. I think the grit was 120, but it could have been 80. As you can tell from the video, that filler is VERY sandable (is that actually a word????). I did sand later with higher grit before finishing, but had nothing to do with the filler, that was just to get a great finish.
for bigger / deeper text that would be fine. Many of the cuts on this project were .01 inches in depth, so sanding away the paint on top could also sand away some of the carving itself (especially if the was any bleeding from the top).
Rob, nice idea, nice job. I've had a lot of trouble carving characters that small, for example the inside of those half notes or the inside of letters often chip out. Please, tell me the about the bit and the feeds and speeds used to carve that job. Thanks again for the idea.
This technique does help with chip out. My settings for vcarving this project (inches): start depth .01 flat depth .03 45' V-bit. Feed rate is set at 100, but that is kind of irrelevant. I slow it way down at the machine, and for tiny characters like that, it will never come close to that top speed because there is not time to accelerate to the speed in such a short space. The start depth of .01 will make everything a little deeper / "wider". If there is something set to be only .01 deep, it will not show up very well in the end. By setting start depth of .01, it just doubled the depth on these areas that might not have shown up before. I use 45' v-bit with 1/8 shank. For some reason they are harder to find than in the past. I buy the 10 packs for between $10-$15 Hope this helps. Good luck!!!
@@nickbakic7880 Normally ebay, but I am not seeing them anymore. I think the retailer was drillman1 (or something similar). 30' is much more popular, and I will probably order those next time, or order ebay from China. Here is a 30' on amazon (probably what I will by next time). www.amazon.com/HQMaster-Titanium-Engraving-V-Shape-Tungsten/dp/B074MP9SFS/ref=sr_1_55?crid=37FZQ45NM7NH6&keywords=30%27+10+pack+cnc+bit&qid=1642448490&sprefix=30%27+10+pack+cnc+bit%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-55
@@sidewinderdrums I went to facebook. It wants me to create a account. I don't do facebook. Not the least bit interested in creating a account. Is there any other way to download the file. Thanks.
That will work in many cases. When you do something with very detailed work, or very shallow cuts, you can sand away some of the painted area and loose definition. In those cases you need to do something like this or oramask.
This is an old video I understand, but listening to how you are reading the thousandths measurements made me wonder...I am a machinist, and when I read .03 it isn't hundredths, but is tenths of thousandths....03 is 30 thousandths, not 300 thousandths. 0.300 would be 300 thousandths...
Sorry to contradict, but 0.03 is, as Rob said, three hundredths. It might be nicer if you gave some praise for a job well done with loads of useful tips, than try to find something to criticise.
It's rare too see video's that are about this subject and not try to sell you anything! Thanks for helping us out! We are all in the same boat, against the big corp.
Thanks for the comment. I have also tried joint compound for this technique (it is a little cheaper). Most times the joint compound is fine, but when there is very high detail painting of the text, I think the plastic wood is best.
Wow. My mind is blown. Such a simple yet effective alternative
Great idea Rob, thank you very much for sharing !!
I came back to watch another of your great videos. Enjoyed.
Excellent tip and video - thank you!
Great work, Rob. Nice alternative. I never would have thought of that!
I wish I had seen this before I ordered Oramask. Results are great; thanks for posting.
Great idea and video. Appreciate your explanation.
Hi Rob, thank you so much for these tips and tricks, I've wanted to do some song sheets just as you show and often wondered how to go about it cleanly. This looks to be an Amazing technique, no pun intended. I will surely give this a try, it really does look amazing, thanks for the tips, love it, awesome and excited. Andrew
Great technique! Thanks for sharing!
Great idea great result!
Great idea. Well done. I will have to try that. Thank you.
Thanks I never thought about using wood putty, but I will try it now. Again thanks for the video
BEAUTIFUL! THANKS.
Very cool...... thanks for sharing the tip
Thanks Rob this was cool info, your project looks great also
Great tip! I’ll try it
Thank you for sharing, this is going to save a load of money :)
Nice technique. I will need to try that.
that is such a great idea, plastic wood filer added to my to get list.... Thx for sharing
I have also had good luck with dry mix joint compound
Great video!
Have to echo the wows...Really neat idea!
Great job. I saw this video once before I already had the like on it so will see if it gets you extra credit for liking again. I had forgotten about this technique. Guess I should give it a try but the idea of getting my fingers "icky" probably scarred me away. You spoke about bleed. if you first applied shellac or another sealer before applying the black paint would you still have the bleed worry? Not sure about how that would interact with the plastic wood putty. Also, when zeroing your bite do you do this before applying the wood putty, do you leave a spot that has been skinned and no putty applied, how do you do this to ensure you're carving from zero at the actual wood surface? Thank you for any insights.
Hi Rob. With the putty technique, and wood like maple, I have not had any problems at all with bleed. For porous woods like oak, then I would put down shellac before paint.
I always keep an area clear of the putty to zero the bits.
@@sidewinderdrums in the followup video to this one I heard you mention that in some woods you would precoat - thanks for the follow-up.
Have you tried spraying a some polyurethane or shellac or something to seal it before painting to help with the bleeding issue you mentioned and allow you to use more viscous paints? You seem to have done just fine with the thick paint as the finished project looks great - but if a thinner paint would be easier to work with, that might be one solution. Love the idea though and am looking forward to giving it a try for myself soon. Great work!
That is exactly a future test. Not sure when I will get around to it, but I still eventually.
Great idea! But I assume that you zero the Z for the 45 deg to the surface after the shaving. Then you apply the wood filler. Is that a correct method?
Yes - it is important to get the correct z height. I actually skimmed a bit extra to the right side where I did not cover with the putty, and I zeroed there, but your idea would work just as well.
Awesome. I have considered using VCarve and have played with the trial version. It is impressive but a little expensive for me. Could you simply select the entire work area and tell it to convert to bezier or did you have to go in and do small sections or each item? I bet that was tedious if you had to do that.
I'm sure it depends on the computer you are using. I don't remember how many times I had to do that, but I think it took less than 15 minutes.
Hi Rob. What a unique idea. Simple but effective. Love the project itself. Could you steer me in the direction you got that particular dxf file.
I found it on a facebook group - I think it was "CNC Tips, Tricks and Project Finishing". Let me know if you can't find it, and I will email it to you.
@@sidewinderdrums Thanks for sharing Rob. Found it with the CNC group. TC
Great idea never would have thought of that. Do you take into account the thickness of the wood filler or do you zero Z before you use the filler?
I always leave a spot with no filler to zero off of.
Fantastic Idea. What kind of wood is that? And what grit of sand paper do you use to remove the wood filler? Thanks
The wood was basic soft maple. I think the grit was 120, but it could have been 80. As you can tell from the video, that filler is VERY sandable (is that actually a word????). I did sand later with higher grit before finishing, but had nothing to do with the filler, that was just to get a great finish.
@@sidewinderdrums Thanks Rob. Sandable should be a word.
Great job.....Just curious what would happen if you just went directly on the wood without oramask or puddy?
for bigger / deeper text that would be fine. Many of the cuts on this project were .01 inches in depth, so sanding away the paint on top could also sand away some of the carving itself (especially if the was any bleeding from the top).
Rob, nice idea, nice job. I've had a lot of trouble carving characters that small, for example the inside of those half notes or the inside of letters often chip out. Please, tell me the about the bit and the feeds and speeds used to carve that job. Thanks again for the idea.
This technique does help with chip out.
My settings for vcarving this project (inches):
start depth .01
flat depth .03
45' V-bit.
Feed rate is set at 100, but that is kind of irrelevant. I slow it way down at the machine, and for tiny characters like that, it will never come close to that top speed because there is not time to accelerate to the speed in such a short space.
The start depth of .01 will make everything a little deeper / "wider". If there is something set to be only .01 deep, it will not show up very well in the end. By setting start depth of .01, it just doubled the depth on these areas that might not have shown up before.
I use 45' v-bit with 1/8 shank. For some reason they are harder to find than in the past. I buy the 10 packs for between $10-$15
Hope this helps. Good luck!!!
@@sidewinderdrums Thank you for the info.
@@sidewinderdrums any chance you want to share where you find a 10 pack of 45° v-bit with 1/8" shank for $15?
@@nickbakic7880 Normally ebay, but I am not seeing them anymore. I think the retailer was drillman1 (or something similar). 30' is much more popular, and I will probably order those next time, or order ebay from China. Here is a 30' on amazon (probably what I will by next time).
www.amazon.com/HQMaster-Titanium-Engraving-V-Shape-Tungsten/dp/B074MP9SFS/ref=sr_1_55?crid=37FZQ45NM7NH6&keywords=30%27+10+pack+cnc+bit&qid=1642448490&sprefix=30%27+10+pack+cnc+bit%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-55
I'm in school. UA-cam university. Thanks Professor
Would this work with a painted background? For example, if the wood was painted first, then puttied, then CNCed, then the carved parts painted.
Probably would not work very well. I bet you would need to touch up the paint at a minimum. This is probably a case where oramask would be better.
Was the black acrylic painted on? I am assuming it was not from a rattle can.
yes - acrylic with a brush. Do not water down. The thicker the better - less bleeding.
Great idea, is the wood MDF?
I am pretty sure that was a scrap of soft maple. I am not a fan of MDF for things like this.
@@sidewinderdrums Im not a big fan of MDF either, thank you for the quick response.
Great video. Just wondering if you have a download link to the files. I have aspire 10.5.
You can find the file in files section of the Facebook group "CNC Tips Tricks and Project Finishing"
@@sidewinderdrums I went to facebook. It wants me to create a account. I don't do facebook. Not the least bit interested in creating a account. Is there any other way to download the file. Thanks.
@@karensmith5510 what is your email? I think I can delete the post after I get it.
What software program are you using?
V-carve pro.
Interesting method but why not just carve it, paint it, sand it?
That will work in many cases. When you do something with very detailed work, or very shallow cuts, you can sand away some of the painted area and loose definition. In those cases you need to do something like this or oramask.
I actually thought it looked cool before you sanded the filler off also.
This is an old video I understand, but listening to how you are reading the thousandths measurements made me wonder...I am a machinist, and when I read .03 it isn't hundredths, but is tenths of thousandths....03 is 30 thousandths, not 300 thousandths. 0.300 would be 300 thousandths...
Sorry to contradict, but 0.03 is, as Rob said, three hundredths. It might be nicer if you gave some praise for a job well done with loads of useful tips, than try to find something to criticise.
wow, mind blown, really awesome technique, thanks for sharing it!