I think your choice of V bit contributed to your issues. A round V Bit in my testing is less likely to grab the mask or any top level wood fibers, unlike the flat sided V Bits. A couple $ more and well worth the money. Downcut end mills would also be more desirable, in this application, than uncut for similar reasons. In terms of using the better mask for commission work, don't cheap out. Charge what you need to cover your costs and your time. If you try to save money on the masking but take more time to touch it up, what's more valuable? What is worth more to you? People can see quality and will pay for it.
Just for grins try Con-tact brand clear cover liner our mother used to cover our school books in this stuff back in the 70's it was pretty tough stuff! it could possibly lift the grain when you pull it off :) also try using a heat gun/ dryer when you lay it down Love you work by the way always inspirational
Really enjoyed this video and learned some stuff. I have not used masking with my machine yet but I can see how it would be useful. Up to now, I've either just spray painted the whole thing and then sanded off the surface, or I have carefully (and usually hated) painted the recessed cuts with a fine paint brush. Tedious! I will be experimenting with this. I also appreciate how you rated it. It makes sense. Thank you. I am subbed.
ive been using the oramask 813 for vcarves and the only issue ive had with it is applying it too quick before my finish is completely dried also be sure to smooth it out with a putty knife or credit card etc. When oramask leaves a residue is usually because its been on too long like masking tape or the projects finish is not completely dried. Ive not come up with a way to get that residue off my projects easily yet but im thinking wd40 or peanut oil might do the trick to remove the residue left behind from using the oramask on the project. How do you remove the residue and not harm your finish? I may try the shelf liner but as another watcher commented time is money so if it comes up from the face of the project and i have to re work things i didnt save nothing i just made more work i have to do.
You could have fixed the subscriber letters by adjusting Z0 down a fraction and re-running that part of the program. I do this all the time if the board is not perfectly flat.
I have found that sign vinyl works better that either Oramask or shelf liner. Do pre-finish with shellac. I think the sign vinyl is a thicker material and does not leave the shredded edges Oramask does.
What oramask did you use 813 or 631. Looks like 813. But having used both, the 631 works the best. The other think I have learned about the residue you. speak of is temperature. In talking to ORACAL reps, if it is too hot the residue will be present on the piece. One final thought about bleed. I have stopped using spray paint and started using acrylic paint. #1 it is way cheaper, #2 it does not bleed at all. Thanks for the video
i tried a quality car wrap, only cos my son had some spare. worked really well with 90 v bit and straight side m3 bit. some thin wrap from wish, same bits, not as good but better than your shelf liner. great video.thanks
Over 1 year making signs using Crafters Square Vinyl Paper Permanent from Dollar Tree, $1.25 for 3 ft x 12". 2 quick coats of shellac will fill up the wood pores and sticks perfect.
Even better than oramask or shelf liner is wood putty... water it down and apply a smooth coat over the entire piece. if your going to sand it anyway... this is a better solution than the mask method. Try it I am sure you will have better results. By the way this is not my idea. Another You tuber who I cant remember tried this and it worked great.
Engrave the piece .02" deeper, Mask / paint the colors of your choice, face the excess paint off .02" with a .5 mill, done.....no masking....no bleeding.
Thank you for all the videos, I am working on making a cool lift but need a little help :-) I couldn’t find a way to email you so I am commenting here instead!
This was an unfair comparison from the get-go. The application of the drawer liner was not applied properly and had wrinkles. I use this all the time and I ensure there are no wrinkles and that I use a plastic putty knife and go over the material to be sure there is a good bond to the material. (NO BUBBLES) It looked as though you did do this with the Oramask. Really, you actually put this out as a comparison. Plus, I have never seen such thin Drawer liner in all the time I've been using it. The liner you held up at the beginning looked white not clear. White is what I use as well.
The Walmart contact paper works great for lasered stuff.
Niiice comparison liked your test very much think I'll try the shelf liner and a roller , thanks again
Helpful video thanks. Just got a shapeoko 4 xxl so will definitely get some oramask
I think your choice of V bit contributed to your issues. A round V Bit in my testing is less likely to grab the mask or any top level wood fibers, unlike the flat sided V Bits. A couple $ more and well worth the money. Downcut end mills would also be more desirable, in this application, than uncut for similar reasons. In terms of using the better mask for commission work, don't cheap out. Charge what you need to cover your costs and your time. If you try to save money on the masking but take more time to touch it up, what's more valuable? What is worth more to you? People can see quality and will pay for it.
Thanks for comparing. I really like your content. Hope you continue on that path :)
Thanks, I fully intend to! I'm glad you like the videos!
Amana tool 60deg vbit should make cleaner cuts to.
But good test.
I just tried oramask for the 1st time tonight and it was awesome.
Thanks! I'll look into that bit!
Thanks I was wondering about this. thanks for the answer
Just for grins try Con-tact brand clear cover liner our mother used to cover our school books in this stuff back in the 70's it was pretty tough stuff! it could possibly lift the grain when you pull it off :) also try using a heat gun/ dryer when you lay it down Love you work by the way always inspirational
Really enjoyed this video and learned some stuff. I have not used masking with my machine yet but I can see how it would be useful. Up to now, I've either just spray painted the whole thing and then sanded off the surface, or I have carefully (and usually hated) painted the recessed cuts with a fine paint brush. Tedious! I will be experimenting with this. I also appreciate how you rated it. It makes sense. Thank you. I am subbed.
Thanks so much!
ive been using the oramask 813 for vcarves and the only issue ive had with it is applying it too quick before my finish is completely dried also be sure to smooth it out with a putty knife or credit card etc. When oramask leaves a residue is usually because its been on too long like masking tape or the projects finish is not completely dried. Ive not come up with a way to get that residue off my projects easily yet but im thinking wd40 or peanut oil might do the trick to remove the residue left behind from using the oramask on the project.
How do you remove the residue and not harm your finish?
I may try the shelf liner but as another watcher commented time is money so if it comes up from the face of the project and i have to re work things i didnt save nothing i just made more work i have to do.
Low VOC mineral spirits takes it off fairly easily. Didn't seem to have much effect on my sanding DEFT lacquer sanding sealer either.
Great video,I struggle with the oramask but I’m getting better
Have you ever tried wax paper with an iron?
You could have fixed the subscriber letters by adjusting Z0 down a fraction and re-running that part of the program. I do this all the time if the board is not perfectly flat.
Interesting, I enjoyed seeing the process.
Preesh!
having issues with Oramask leaving a residue also
I have found that sign vinyl works better that either Oramask or shelf liner. Do pre-finish with shellac. I think the sign vinyl is a thicker material and does not leave the shredded edges Oramask does.
Big Irish, can you post a link to sign vinyl you used and like?
What oramask did you use 813 or 631. Looks like 813. But having used both, the 631 works the best. The other think I have learned about the residue you. speak of is temperature. In talking to ORACAL reps, if it is too hot the residue will be present on the piece. One final thought about bleed. I have stopped using spray paint and started using acrylic paint. #1 it is way cheaper, #2 it does not bleed at all. Thanks for the video
Do you brush it on or airbrush it?
@@tony97gt I just use a cheap paint brush. I by the Apple Barrel brand
Thank you
Try the ”Frisco Craft" brand. A good happy medium in price between the Duck & Oramask & works JUST AS GOOD AS Oramask brand!! 💯
What double sided tape are you using??
How about comparing the unit cost? $39 vs $6 means nothing when you discount the area covered.
What is the cost per sqft on oramask vs shelf liner?
I've got the exact numbers somewhere, but off the top of my head- Oramask $0.78 SF and Duck Shelf Liner $0.14 It's close to that.
i tried a quality car wrap, only cos my son had some spare. worked really well with 90 v bit and straight side m3 bit. some thin wrap from wish, same bits, not as good but better than your shelf liner. great video.thanks
Interesting, I would have never thought about that! Thanks!
Over 1 year making signs using Crafters Square Vinyl Paper Permanent from Dollar Tree, $1.25 for 3 ft x 12". 2 quick coats of shellac will fill up the wood pores and sticks perfect.
Try again with a down cut bit to see how it does.
Thats the plan! Thanks for watching!
Even better than oramask or shelf liner is wood putty... water it down and apply a smooth coat over the entire piece. if your going to sand it anyway... this is a better solution than the mask method.
Try it I am sure you will have better results.
By the way this is not my idea. Another You tuber who I cant remember tried this and it worked great.
Engrave the piece .02" deeper, Mask / paint the colors of your choice, face the excess paint off .02" with a .5 mill, done.....no masking....no bleeding.
I was thinking that would be a better alternative as well. I think what you have suggested is what I will try instead of using a mask. Great tip !
I think you may have better results with Oramask 631.
I found it to be the best for my CNC work!
Thanks!
Where you messed up is your shelf line was wrong. Should have got the liner with little duckies on it. LMAO
Thank you for all the videos, I am working on making a cool lift but need a little help :-) I couldn’t find a way to email you so I am commenting here instead!
A lift for the CNC?
I have a question for you; did you know that ketchup was originally made from mushrooms?
hmmm, I didn't
This was an unfair comparison from the get-go. The application of the drawer liner was not applied properly and had wrinkles. I use this all the time and I ensure there are no wrinkles and that I use a plastic putty knife and go over the material to be sure there is a good bond to the material. (NO BUBBLES) It looked as though you did do this with the Oramask.
Really, you actually put this out as a comparison. Plus, I have never seen such thin Drawer liner in all the time I've been using it. The liner you held up at the beginning looked white not clear. White is what I use as well.
If you don't slap it, you don't activate the double stick tape. I do a minimum of 7 slaps just too be safe.
lol
How much more comment made my day Hamilton to the negaholics God gave You 2 ears and one mouth use them accordingly
I’d like your videos more if you didn’t do that stupid click bait thing on the picture, 😢
How much more?
So this test proved nothing, because the use of the wrong bit