I was a little confused on the first video about what exactly you were doing...I am new to CNC wood working, but when I saw this one, the light clicked on and I LOVE what you did here!!!
I quit using oramask and just spray a couple coats of clear on before cutting and a couple coats after cutting then as I paint I use a wet cloth and wipe. That works for me. This is a good idea though. Thanks for the video.
I believe the wood filler would be better than the joint compound mostly because of excessive wear on the bit sharpness caused by the limestone and gypsum in joint compound. I think it would really do a number on the bit after a while. I have no data to back this up, but I'm pretty sure the joint compound would be quite abrasive. I will be trying the wood filler along with some sanding sealer before painting, thanks for the tip.
What do you think is in the wood fillers? Here's an ingredient list from a popular wood filler - Calcium Carbonate (limestone), Sodium Silicate glass, crystalline silica.
I use the premixed compound rather than the powder. The powder is similar to concrete, it sets rather than dries, premixed (the kind in a bucket) air dries and will come off with a damp sponge. If it dries out too much you can just add water to re-hydrate it. I thin it to consistency of latex paint and just apply with an old paint brush, you dont need much.
Yeah, but dry "Hot Mud" sets much faster, so you can get to work sooner and be able to sand faster. Granted, if you are using a layer as thin as paint, that will dry quickly as well, but may not be enough of a coating for thinner paints, stains, or dyes.
Rob this is a new trick for me. I have always just put on a couple coats of poly before painting...then sand a lot. I will definitely be using this trick. Thanks for sharing.
I'm did the plastic wood trick yesterday, waiting for my wife to paint it then I will sand. I can't wait to see it, after I run out of plastic wood I will try the joint compound I have a lot of that! Thanks for your video!
This is awesome!!!1 I've struggled with Oramask shredding on edges and have been wondering about an alternative. FOUND IT!! Thank you, Made a new subscriber out of me.
Thanks Rob. I hate painting, and this makes it tolerable. I am excited about your epoxy series as an alternative to painting - did I mention how much I hate painting...
I just watched the last one and went right to your channel to see this one as well. These are amazing. Lord bless you for these. So much better than Oramask. Working on an Ol' Rugged Cross as we speak. Thanks so much!
When you want to paint text / designs, and want unfinished wood when you are done, then I think this technique is best. If you already have painted wood, and want to carve text into it, then oramask is probably best. I filled some designs with epoxy last weekend, and had some bleeding. I should have used this technique there too.
Rob, watched both of your "alternative to Oramask" videos, tried both and they work just as advertised - Thank you! I'm now wondering if it would be possible to paint the surface of the workpiece, coat it with joint compound, run your carve, paint the carving, then remove the joint compound with a wet rag instead of sanding (like I would working with drywall). This way you can have a painted surface as well as a painted carve-out. Maybe urethane over the paint before applying the joint compound? Just thinking out loud as I'm typing
My honest answer is: I don't know. I think this idea is worth trying, but I am very busy right now. Both the joint compound and plastic wood are water based, and can be removed off a sealed surface with a damp rag, so I think this idea could work. Other thoughts - once the joint computer/plastic wood gets painted, it might solidify where the paint is absorbed, and then cannot be easily wiped off. That is the only possible point of failure that I can think of at the moment.
I had good luck with paper masking. I work at a large format print shop and get to try different materials that we have around from scrap and I found a roll of this paper that works a dream, no tags or anything on it to get another but man it doesn't peel up with small stuff
Doesn’t the paint bleed within the lettering? End grain at the top and bottom of the letters. How does the filler prevent this? I usually use a lacquer and small brush in the lettering before applying the paint.
It depends on the wood and the paint. For wood like maple and cherry, and if I use a thick paint (acrylic that is not watered down), then I have had no problems. If I am using wood with an open pour (like oak), or a thin paint, then it needs to sealed first.
@@sidewinderdrums absolutely makes sense. Just not a fan of adding joint compound because the moisture on the grain and the abrasiveness against my very expensive tooling. 🙂
Also...how bad is the engraving process of the drywall mud.?.does it creates a big mess.on the cnc and surrounding area?..that would be my only concern .i dont have dust collection...
drywall mud makes "finer" dust than the wood putty when sanding everything off in the end. I did not notice more dust than normal when carving the text.
Hi Rob, Thanks for the demo's. You have a new subscriber here. One of the things I struggle with is finishing on a project. I do not have a steady hand for detail. I am going to try this method. The question I have is how do you set your z-axis on the CNC after applying the compound? Is it not thick enough to throw off your Z?
Is this just a, "hey lets see if this works" or is this a serious consideration instead of Oramask because of cost? or is there another reason i am missing altogether .
Both - I have been using this technique with "plastic wood" brand wood filler for years with great results. I wanted to see if I got similar results with joint compound. I think the results are equal, and joint compound is cheaper, so this will be my go to process in the future.
I was a little confused on the first video about what exactly you were doing...I am new to CNC wood working, but when I saw this one, the light clicked on and I LOVE what you did here!!!
I quit using oramask and just spray a couple coats of clear on before cutting and a couple coats after cutting then as I paint I use a wet cloth and wipe. That works for me. This is a good idea though. Thanks for the video.
I believe the wood filler would be better than the joint compound mostly because of excessive wear on the bit sharpness caused by the limestone and gypsum in joint compound. I think it would really do a number on the bit after a while. I have no data to back this up, but I'm pretty sure the joint compound would be quite abrasive. I will be trying the wood filler along with some sanding sealer before painting, thanks for the tip.
What do you think is in the wood fillers? Here's an ingredient list from a popular wood filler - Calcium Carbonate (limestone), Sodium Silicate glass, crystalline silica.
I use the premixed compound rather than the powder. The powder is similar to concrete, it sets rather than dries, premixed (the kind in a bucket) air dries and will come off with a damp sponge. If it dries out too much you can just add water to re-hydrate it. I thin it to consistency of latex paint and just apply with an old paint brush, you dont need much.
What brand is that in a bucket?
@@iwannaapple7190 There are many, any hardware store and ask for "pre-mixed" drywall compound.
Yeah, but dry "Hot Mud" sets much faster, so you can get to work sooner and be able to sand faster. Granted, if you are using a layer as thin as paint, that will dry quickly as well, but may not be enough of a coating for thinner paints, stains, or dyes.
Rob this is a new trick for me. I have always just put on a couple coats of poly before painting...then sand a lot. I will definitely be using this trick. Thanks for sharing.
I'm did the plastic wood trick yesterday, waiting for my wife to paint it then I will sand. I can't wait to see it, after I run out of plastic wood I will try the joint compound I have a lot of that! Thanks for your video!
how did it work out?
@@sidewinderdrums perfect, made a clock for friends with a verse written in a cursive font and they loved it
This is awesome!!!1 I've struggled with Oramask shredding on edges and have been wondering about an alternative. FOUND IT!! Thank you, Made a new subscriber out of me.
Good idea. I may try it in the future.
Thanks Rob. I hate painting, and this makes it tolerable. I am excited about your epoxy series as an alternative to painting - did I mention how much I hate painting...
Great idea Rob. I don't need no stinkin' Oramask. 😃
I just watched the last one and went right to your channel to see this one as well. These are amazing. Lord bless you for these. So much better than Oramask. Working on an Ol' Rugged Cross as we speak. Thanks so much!
When you want to paint text / designs, and want unfinished wood when you are done, then I think this technique is best. If you already have painted wood, and want to carve text into it, then oramask is probably best.
I filled some designs with epoxy last weekend, and had some bleeding. I should have used this technique there too.
Cool process!
Very interesting. Cool idea.
Yep… Gonna hafta try this one, too
Rob, watched both of your "alternative to Oramask" videos, tried both and they work just as advertised - Thank you! I'm now wondering if it would be possible to paint the surface of the workpiece, coat it with joint compound, run your carve, paint the carving, then remove the joint compound with a wet rag instead of sanding (like I would working with drywall). This way you can have a painted surface as well as a painted carve-out. Maybe urethane over the paint before applying the joint compound? Just thinking out loud as I'm typing
My honest answer is: I don't know. I think this idea is worth trying, but I am very busy right now.
Both the joint compound and plastic wood are water based, and can be removed off a sealed surface with a damp rag, so I think this idea could work.
Other thoughts - once the joint computer/plastic wood gets painted, it might solidify where the paint is absorbed, and then cannot be easily wiped off. That is the only possible point of failure that I can think of at the moment.
And yes im sure bleeding will be an issue especially wirh soft woods like pine so i may try this and then poly before engraving.
Impressive. Did you zero the bit to the wood before adding the joint compound? Maybe on an uncoated section of the board? TIA
Yes - I zeroed in a spot that did not have joint compound.
I had good luck with paper masking. I work at a large format print shop and get to try different materials that we have around from scrap and I found a roll of this paper that works a dream, no tags or anything on it to get another but man it doesn't peel up with small stuff
Forgot to ask...what is approx cure dry time for the drywall compound method before u engrave?...
I used 10 minute mix, so in theory it was dry in 10 minutes. I went heavier than needed, so I waited 30 minutes.
Doesn’t the paint bleed within the lettering? End grain at the top and bottom of the letters. How does the filler prevent this? I usually use a lacquer and small brush in the lettering before applying the paint.
It depends on the wood and the paint. For wood like maple and cherry, and if I use a thick paint (acrylic that is not watered down), then I have had no problems. If I am using wood with an open pour (like oak), or a thin paint, then it needs to sealed first.
@@sidewinderdrums absolutely makes sense. Just not a fan of adding joint compound because the moisture on the grain and the abrasiveness against my very expensive tooling. 🙂
@@darrellsaturnbigfoot: Yes, both are my concerns too!
Also...how bad is the engraving process of the drywall mud.?.does it creates a big mess.on the cnc and surrounding area?..that would be my only concern .i dont have dust collection...
drywall mud makes "finer" dust than the wood putty when sanding everything off in the end. I did not notice more dust than normal when carving the text.
Ok..great..i may try it one day...cant hurt to try.
So, did you set your Z to the board prior to putting on the joint compound?
You would need to. Hopefully don’t need to change a bit, or you’ve left uncovered space for your probe.
Joint compound versus spackling? I believe spackling is thicker. Wonder if that would still work.
I'm sure it would work. Joint compound works well, but it did chip out a little for extremely detailed work.
Hi Rob, Thanks for the demo's. You have a new subscriber here. One of the things I struggle with is finishing on a project. I do not have a steady hand for detail. I am going to try this method. The question I have is how do you set your z-axis on the CNC after applying the compound? Is it not thick enough to throw off your Z?
I leave a blank spot somewhere with no filler to zero from.
@@sidewinderdrums Thank you sir. I tried using Oramask and no matter what I try when it comes to small text it peels. Going to give this a shot.
Is this just a, "hey lets see if this works" or is this a serious consideration instead of Oramask because of cost? or is there another reason i am missing altogether .
Both - I have been using this technique with "plastic wood" brand wood filler for years with great results. I wanted to see if I got similar results with joint compound. I think the results are equal, and joint compound is cheaper, so this will be my go to process in the future.