farmall super a still no spark
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2019
- In this video I still can't get spark maybe the ground in the distributor.
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Thanks for the reply, sure was great to hear that old tractor humm/humming.
Thank you all for the help.
Just a thing that happened to my super a did you check the push pull switch simple but maybe
Check the ground on the distributor if the insulation on either side is missing it’s the same as having the switch off. I got a cheep super C once that several mechanics couldn’t crank. I got the rubber washer off of tin screws and put them on both sides of the bolt that goes through the distrstor and it cranked right up. The bolt whet the negative off the coil goes.
Check the plate inside the distributor that the points and condenser are mounted to. It has to be grounded.. Use your ohmmeter to check for continuity between the plate and ground. The engine block is ground. File a small spot to bare metal to find a good ground for your ohmmeter.
. The white unit on the coil is a ballast resistor. The voltage will change on the coil side only when the points are closed.. It drops the voltage to 6V for the coil..
The only thing I can think of is that there's another wire or wires that needs to be changed out. I wish I could help you brother! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Paul for the help.
The white long square thing on top of coil is a resistor. Power goes to coil thru resistor when
the engine is running, when the engine is being started by a starter, coil gets full voltage.
Thanks for the information Raymond.
Is the starter and generator 12 volt or 6volt putting 12v to a 6v condenser will burn up the candencer if the voltage isnt reduced from 12v to 6v unless the system was converted all to a 12v system and the points and condenser need to need to be swopped too. To utilise a 12v battery for a 6v system a reiastat must be installed befor the 12v to 6v connections otherwise convert the entire system to 12v.
Run that new green wire you installed directly to the positive post on the battery to bypass the ignition switch, just to make sure your switch isn't bad
Thanks for the info Aaron Hunt.
Kevin bypass all of your system run you a hot wire to your coil and check and see if you can replace the condenser do you know the points and condenser in the distributor to a 12 V condenser your point should be fine 👍🤠 if you can change the condenser to 12 V you’ll have to change the coil to a 12 V also just throwing some ideas that you 🤠 double check your firing order also .
Thank you for all the help.
Kevin does it have an alternator conversion or a generator, most old farmalls are 6 volt positive ground unless it has been converted. Also check the rotor rotation and firing order its actually on the block just behind the starter
It has a single wire 12 volt alternator thank you for the help.
Have you checked the old style Dodge ballast resistor yet ? Any that I am aware of turn 12 V to 6 V. If that is the case it will be all screwed up. You would need a 12 V coil with the resistor reducing the current to 6 . The 12 V feed needs to go to the negative side of the coil and the + on the coil to the distributor. You are probably only getting 3 V out to the plugs if any. Check things with a meter bud to make sure. Whoever worked on this befor and screwed up the carb had to be messing with the electrical as well. Seeing 12 V across that white resistor says it is bagged. Switch the wires on the white resistor. Take care eh and good luck bud.
Thank you for the help Tomoko.
I have an identical issue with my 1958 IH 350 Utility. It is a 12 volt from the factory, and has the resistor. I get good resistance through the ballast resistor, but the spark is very weak.
I was running it and shut it off, and it hasn't started again. I am going to try a coil that I know is good off my Wife's 1962 Thunderbird, not going to tell her. Sometimes it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission.
Still working on it.
Smiles.
@@kutzbill Take extra care in the way it is wired.at the coil and that condenser should be replaced as well. Do your parts re & re one at a time so you will know witch was the troubled part. Far too often I have changed out more than one piece and although solving the problem never knew exactly what was the cause. Good luck bud.
@@kutzbill The ballast resistor is to reduce voltage from 12 to 6 volts. Make sure that coil is rated the same.
Reiastats are used to lower the12v current to a lower 6v current not like the rectifier you have on the coil
Put your in line test light in between the coil output and the distributor input. This will tell you that your getting juice from the coil (or not). It'll never get to the spark plug if it's not first getting to the input of the distributor. If you have juice there, the problem is with the rotor cap or contacts inside the distributor.
Thanks for the comment Leon.
I know this is old but, I would look for a bad ground on the distributor plate. That needs to be grounded to give the circuit a complete path back to the battery. You could use a short piece of wire to jump the side of the distributor to the neg side of the battery for testing. Also, I believe the resistor was only used on 12 volt conversions where you could keep your 6 volt coil. It dropped the voltage down so you would not burn out the coil. If you have a 12 volt coil, you should not be using a resistor.
Thanks for the tips
Check to see if the distributor is grounded properly. Poke the plate that the ground side (non-moving) of the points is mounted to with your test light. If it lights up, you have a bad ground. Its also very possible that the new condenser is a dud. I have had that happen a few times, it may be worth swapping the old condenser back into the distributor.
Thank you for the info Jason.
So did you ever figure out the problem? I have a 300 International that is giving me the same problem
@@ccrawley952 So do I! Did you figure yours out? 300 U 12 V system with a 12 V coil but no ballast resistor like the one here. ??
The points were grounding out to the housing.....the insulator were the contact stud goes through was cracked....took out cleaned and filled with jb weld....put back together.....runs like a singer
@@ccrawley952 Thank you! I actually just got it going !! 15+ years it hasn't run ! I opened it up and cleaned the points with gas and acetone. Really cleaned it all out and there was major corrosion on the points (don't see any cracks). Turned the key and bunch of black smoke billowed out, then she really started purring. I'm over the moon ! 🤣
Are you supposed to have power on both terminals on the coil? Does it need a different in potential (ground)?
Not sure Richard.
Kevin, I'm just going to throw this at you, I'm just reaching at straws, since they changed it over to 12volt should that coil be 12 volt, or does this make since.
The resistor reduces the voltage to 6 volt.
Kevin, I have no clue but 6 volt coil on a 12 v system maybe part of it.
That is what the resister does, it reduces the 12V to 6V or is suppose to.
Thank you all for the help.
Did you ever get it to spark? Having the same trouble on my H
Yes i did it was an issue with a plate in the distributor, i had to ground it and then it worked fine.
Check the ballast resistor
Thanks for the comment.
There may be a kill switch or kill wire shorting the system out.
Not if you are getting power to the points.
Thank you for the comment.
Take a wire from the positive on the battery go all the way to the resistor go through the resistor from the resistor go to the negative side of the coil from the positive side of the coil go to the distributor give that a try that will bypass anything in your switch or console area because you're taking a wire straight from the battery
Thanks for the help HillBilly bro.
Sorry to inject my thoughts being post is 2 to three years old but enjoyed watching but never saw any fix of the problem and tried to read all the comments didn't see what I think might of been the issue my thinking is that you had power to the outside of the distributor but no power at points to me seems to of been a grounding problem where the through bolt and the spring on the points connect would assume you fixed it by now just curious sorry to inject so late
It was the ground thanks for the comment.
Is the distributor rotor actually turning?
Thanks for the comment.
First check that resistor with ohm meter. It looks wired up wrong to me, simple change of wiring
will get it going? call me!
Have you tried to sit on the tractor it may have a kill switch under the seat keeping it from starting unless ur sitting on it.
Nothing that old will have a kill switch.
@@davescorneroftheworld1147 It's worth a look. Could've been added after market.
@@TheWoodHaven highly doubt it, there's no spot for a safety switch to be put on.
Thank you all for the help.
Try unhooking your ignition switch, it's happened to me many times trying to get spark on an old Farmall and it ends up being a bad switch
Thank you for the info.
@@Robinson-Homestead make sure to touch both wires on the switch together.
Switches go bad for sure
How disappointing!! I certainly don't have a clue, but I hope the answer comes to you. 😕
Thank you Ladygray4 we will get it one day.
you dont use a 12v battery with a 6 volt coil. the resistor does not reduce voltage from 12 to 6 volts
Thanks for the comments
when checking for ohms, u DO NOT have voltage on system. Ray Said it's a resistor, don't just stand there, call me!
The points may be shorted in the distributor . with the point open does the power go off. The ballast reister is the part name. Did you put the rotor in. I didn't see it . The coil boosts the voltage to make spark. Maybe its backwards.
Clean n gap the points to 20 thousands
These new points are not like the original so I put a plastic thin washer on the post and file some of the rivet on the cam rub , fixes that ground.
Kevin, verify you have power in those locations you tested (all four) when the engine is cranking. I think you are missing an additional wire to the positive side of the coil, I think there should be one coming from the battery through a relay. Remember this video ua-cam.com/video/qDoJplhqYEQ/v-deo.html at 8:10
Thank you for the help 280zone.
some coils don't need a resister .
Thanks for the info
your points are not making contact. there shipped with a coating to protect them. just slip a pice of sandpaper through the gap and then spray some brake cleaner to clean and you go to go. Bob
Thanks for the info Badger.
The points gap needs to be .020"
Thanks for the info.
I would say you have a bad distributor I would think of Distributors not in the right place it's not going to spark if it's out of time you're not going to get no spark
Thanks for the help James.
or if wired corectly check coil
Thank you
Basically condenser is capacitors
Thanks for the comment.
That is a resister it trun over with 12 voteS as soon as it starts it goes to 6 votes
Thanks.
change your condenser they can be bad from new
Thanks for the comment.
u got it wierd rong every thang not spose to b hot u shold throw ground or hot depending on if it is positve ground or not postive ground throse hot regler wiring lik modern car ect will throe or polse ground
Thanks for the info
Kevin, "Just Tinkering" has some videos on the Farmall ignition change that may help you. ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=farmall+cub+6v+to+12v
That old "Kettering" ignition is actually a 'tuned' circuit. Point gap, coil specs, and condenser size, all work together to minimize the effect of that 'spark' you were looking for. Check this search: ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=how+does+a+kettering+ignition+work
Your best fix would be a complete kit that is already tested and proven effective. Like your style, looking forward to what you come up with!
Thank you for all the info.
Bad ground????
Thank you LAWRENCE.
Need to change condensor
Thanks for the comment.
Let me no what u found
Coming up to day Kenny.
Sorry i dont know either i think it should have spark its got me puzzled to
Thank you Melvin.
you have coil reversed
Thank you Mark.
@@Robinson-Homestead Hope it helped, but have been with these tractors for 45 years. If its still a 6volt system you shouldn't even need that resistor. The resistor is needed when one converts to 12 volt charging system and then its needed coming off single wire alternator. Let us know what ya find sir. Remember these tractors are positive ground, that means the whole tractor is the positive side and negative goes to starter.
Bad wires
Thank you for the comment Kenny.
Call mustie1 he will help you🖒😎🎃
Thanks M Ten.
start from key switch turn to start this put battery voltage to coilprimary winding from the coil it conn to the the screw with the points and condenser conn as the points open this removes a gd from that screw allowing voltage to flow into the condencer to gd where the cond mounting screw conns. as this voltage s flowing it greatesa magnetic effect inthe coil secondery winding du to the huge increase in turns ratio a high voltage is conn. to the dist cap causing a spark to jump on a plug this happen very fast as soon as point close the gd shuts down the condenser the flow stops ----------trace this if you can see where it stops the condenser is bad about causing firing tbl,s if you have a ohmmeter set on ohms put one lead on thr screw where points conectto the cond.should get full scale reading with points closed now open points reading should fall off now turns witch on to run should have battery volts standing with points open insde dist lift rotor shaft up some will fit in backword so turn 1/2 turn push back down hope th is helps
Thank you for all the information.
On off switch on panel
Mine went open
Thanks for the comment.