If you put a 12 volt coil on you probably don't need the resistor. It is used to work with the 6 volt coil to lower voltage to the coil but with 12 volt coil probably not needed if the tractor is now 12 volts.
Thanks for all your hard work. I was having the same problem swapping out coils and resistors. I watched all three of you videos today. Went back out and cleaned the distributer plate and connections. She started right up 1954 C so once again thanks.
Kevin, This is a note for others that might have problems with no spark. Last week my Super M would not start. Someone years ago did a 6-volt to 12-volt conversion. I got a few wiring diagrams off the net. Very similar, but not the same. What I found was the Ballast Resistor was bad. Years ago you needed a ballast resistor that went to the coil to keep the points from burning out. A modern coil has the Ballast Resistor built in, but NAPA sells Ballast Resistors for not much. I did run a tester on the Ballast Resistor and it showed a reading, but if I shook it did not, it was shorting out. What I mean is it might fool you into thinking that it is ok. So what I did was to replace the Ballast Resistor and the tractor runs fine. But I could also replace the coil with a modern one and removed the old Ballast Resistor and two connections on the Ballast resistor connected together. So good luck to you all, Tom
Well Kevin, congratulations on getting the Super A running. I am going through exactly the same thing with my 1952 Super A and your video has been of considerable help to me. Thank you for your patient and thorough explanations and demonstrations. If it were not for your success I believe I might have given up. Thank you for sharing your actives with us and your easy to follow steps. OBTW, I think I do know how hard it was to shut your Super A down. I was thinking the same thing when you said you were going to turn her off. Kind of like, "Oh, just let her run a little longer." LOL. It's funny how attached we get to things like this. They take on a personality all of their own. Thanks Kevin.
You are partially right in what you are doing. The points are not transferring spark to to your plugs but, are interrupting the current to your coil causing a release of high voltage to the distributor cap.
@@Robinson-Homestead My family has been farming with tractors for 3 generations. My grandpa and his brothers first tractors where Farmalls. And they are still used on the farm today. I was a tractor mechanic also. Thank you for the compliment
I've been watching from week to week for you to get this thing running. I'm happy with you. Praise the Lord. There are those, who an anvil of resolve know how to forge a key that unlocks all closed doors
I'm not sure, but I may have given a small cheer when she turned over. She sounds great, nice job Kevin. Can't wait to see you take her for a ride. Be well my friend.
Hello Kevin, That would be the usual assumption that the whole gear train that drives the points IS grounded right back to the block and to the -- side of the battery. if you don't have a real good spark, compression will blow it out. You could just need a new coil, they like magneto coils DO NOT last forever. I replaced the mag on an engine with a battey ignition set-up and the engine not only ran better but started better too.
I cheated & read the comments early, so i knew she cranked up this time, but I was still grinning from ear to ear when she finally fired up!! Woohoo!!! You did it! 👍😁 Sounds just like my Daddy's Super A - I'd recognize that throaty purr anywhere!!
Hey Kevin, when that tractor was made it had a positive ground. Now you have to change the points to negative ground. Watch Pete on a few acres farm and in one he is fixing on an H and the insulated connection he has hooked to negative so the points have it switched to carry electricity.
I knew the Ol Girl had it in her she just needed a little extra push corrosion is really bad when things set. But we got her going now. Stay safe my friend.
Weak spark caused by voltage reduction from ballast resistor. What does writing on coil body say.some coils have an internal resistor. Glad to see it start.
Nice job on cleaning all connections too bad you couldn't get it running without replacing all new parts but it starts and runs nice so it's a win-win.
Well done fella. I am at a loss as to that running with the electrical at the coil backwards as I am with your brother on that one but hey if it works, who cares eh !
Two thumbs up Kev! Sounds like she's running good to me -I use the same gasket martial on ALL my repair work its good stuff.You might have to tweak the timing just a smidgen if it has trouble under a heavy load other than that you are well on your way my friend
That coil, looks bran'spankin new, Is that the proper resister for that coil? The tractor should start easy but have you cleaned out the carb. If you use or plan on using the tractor often, then good gas, but if not using the tractor often you might consider gas stabilizer, stabil or seafoam... hope it all works out, tractors are good to have.
It looks like the carb is gravity fed, so gas is in the carb when the engine is NOT running, Just wondering, that would gunk up the carb. I am glad she got running 4 ya but if she is very cold, you're gonna take the bat out of battery to get her running. You will get her going and nice too.
Kevin I have a 1953 super c farmall tractor. We have gotten it running, but it will only run for 3-4 minutes then cut off. Then it run for 2-3 minutes and cut off. Then it wont run at all. We have rebuilt the carburetor twice and cleaned it out twice. Because when it stopped it sounded like it was running out of gas. However. know we are getting know spark. Kevin I sent you a message earlier, but I may have accidently deleted your response. I would grateful for your or any one else response. In addition to this tractor problem, I see that i need to join some type of tractor group to keep abreast of events and people to assist when problems mechanical happens.
Thanks for your reply. I did replace the coil, points and condenser. When I took the distributor cap, I did mark the distributor it so I could put it back in time. But I am not completely sure it is in time. However, there was no backfire or fire of any type. One small thing is that the distributor cap fits into the proper slot, but there is still a small gap between the metal distributor and the plastic distributor cap which puzzles me. Should I replace the distributor cap?
@@Robinson-Homestead Dear Kevin: Today I ran a wire straight to the positive side of coil to the positive side of the battery. Using a test light I established that there is power to the negative side of the coil also. Additionally there is power from the negative side of coil to the distributor as well. The higher voltage wire from the coil to the distributor has been tested and is working well. A new rotor button has been installed. The switch was by-passed, but was turned it on so as to prevent possibly grounding out. Keep in mind that the original problem was it would start and run for 3-4minutes then cut-off, then for 2-3minutes and cut-off, then 1-2minutes and cut off and not run any more. We do have gas but know spark.
If u don't have a good spark, I'm told the compression can blow it out. Is that the proper resistor for that coil? It should be a BLUE spark, otherwise, it's a weak spark. I still think there is an error in the wiring, even if the engine does fire, it will not run well.
It seems like a few issues here, the tractor should start much easier than this, a bad condenser in with points will not help. and timing what is the gap at points supposed to be? Carb might need a good clean out, had an engine with great spark but took some work to get it going, bad gaskets will make engine run lean.
U R still missing a WIRE! put wire on coil where resistor wire is. run the new wire to either starter solenoid on starter side or better where skinny wire is. This way when starter cranks coil gets full voltage. On a cold morning its gonna b hard to start.
Well, you can lead a horse to water. . .U should NOT have to spray starter fluid to get it going. you don't have a good spark while the engine is being cranked because battery volts go down as a lot of amps are being used to work starter/generator to crank, and on top of that, voltage is lost at the resistor. U should have a good spark, at least a good half inch at all times. Well, it does not seem you want to take my advice.
The ground side of the battery be it pod or neg that’s the distributor wire feed from the coil
Thanks Johnny.
If you put a 12 volt coil on you probably don't need the resistor. It is used to work with the 6 volt coil to lower voltage to the coil but with 12 volt coil probably not needed if the tractor is now 12 volts.
Thanks for the comment.
Bad ground that whole time
That's it thanks for the comment
sounds like a dry bushing on the starter when it spins out. maybe a rebuild is in order.
Yeah i think so , thanks for watching.
coil is hookup backwards
Thanks for all your hard work. I was having the same problem swapping out coils and resistors. I watched all three of you videos today. Went back out and cleaned the distributer plate and connections. She started right up 1954 C so once again thanks.
Stephen, i am so glad i could help thanks for watching.
We got my super a running yesterday. My son has her purring.
Kevin, This is a note for others that might have problems with no spark. Last week my Super M would not start. Someone years ago did a 6-volt to 12-volt conversion. I got a few wiring diagrams off the net. Very similar, but not the same. What I found was the Ballast Resistor was bad. Years ago you needed a ballast resistor that went to the coil to keep the points from burning out. A modern coil has the Ballast Resistor built in, but NAPA sells Ballast Resistors for not much. I did run a tester on the Ballast Resistor and it showed a reading, but if I shook it did not, it was shorting out. What I mean is it might fool you into thinking that it is ok. So what I did was to replace the Ballast Resistor and the tractor runs fine. But I could also replace the coil with a modern one and removed the old Ballast Resistor and two connections on the Ballast resistor connected together. So good luck to you all, Tom
Thank you for the information my friend it helps.
Well done Kevin! I think I was almost as tickled as you when she fired up. That thing is running smooth, gotta love those old beasts.
Thank you all for the help.
Well Kevin, congratulations on getting the Super A running. I am going through exactly the same thing with my 1952 Super A and your video has been of considerable help to me. Thank you for your patient and thorough explanations and demonstrations. If it were not for your success I believe I might have given up.
Thank you for sharing your actives with us and your easy to follow steps.
OBTW, I think I do know how hard it was to shut your Super A down. I was thinking the same thing when you said you were going to turn her off. Kind of like, "Oh, just let her run a little longer."
LOL. It's funny how attached we get to things like this. They take on a personality all of their own.
Thanks Kevin.
Thanks Don, always glad when i can help somebody out.
You get blue spark from electric ignition, yellow spark from points
Thanks for the info.
Sure sound great
After you get it adjusted and cleaned up
All will be left is to see how she works
Great Job Kevin!
I’m so happy you got it running. I always thought it was a ground wire, but when you had power all the way to the distributor I wasn’t to sure.
Thank you all for the help.
It's great to see that you got it running Kevin! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you all for the help.
You are partially right in what you are doing. The points are not transferring spark to to your plugs but, are interrupting the current to your coil causing a release of high voltage to the distributor cap.
She's alive!! Awesome job!!🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you all for the help.
I watched your video ,I had the problem. Thank you 😊
You are just the best Kevin! Congrats.
Thank you all for the help.
Enjoyed your video and challenges. I have similar problem with my Super M. It ran when I parked it and now a year later no spark. Thanks
Check the distributor and see if that helps.
Engine sounds really good. Sounds like the timing is right on. Not popping or missing at all
Sounds like you know your tractors.
@@Robinson-Homestead My family has been farming with tractors for 3 generations. My grandpa and his brothers first tractors where Farmalls. And they are still used on the farm today. I was a tractor mechanic also. Thank you for the compliment
Good work sounds great.
Thank you all for the help.
I've been watching from week to week for you to get this thing running. I'm happy with you. Praise the Lord. There are those, who an anvil of resolve know how to forge a key that unlocks all closed doors
All of you helped me on this one and I thank you all and god Kenneth.
I’ve been looking forward to this. Congratulations.
Thank you all for the help.
I'm not sure, but I may have given a small cheer when she turned over. She sounds great, nice job Kevin. Can't wait to see you take her for a ride. Be well my friend.
Thank you all for the help. I did to Hatch.
Shining example of perseverance ! Wow. This dude has patience !
Thank you for the comment Leon sometimes its not easy.
😊😊😊
Thank you so much for watching.
Glad u have it running..
Took awhile but i got her running.
Hello Kevin, That would be the usual assumption that the whole gear train that drives the points IS
grounded right back to the block and to the -- side of the battery. if you don't have a real good spark, compression will blow it out. You could just need a new coil, they like magneto coils DO NOT last forever. I replaced the mag on an engine with a battey ignition set-up and the engine not only ran better but started better too.
Taking notes. When all else fails, check your ground. I knew it was just a matter of time.
Thank you all for the help Daryl.
I cheated & read the comments early, so i knew she cranked up this time, but I was still grinning from ear to ear when she finally fired up!! Woohoo!!! You did it! 👍😁 Sounds just like my Daddy's Super A - I'd recognize that throaty purr anywhere!!
Thank you all for the help Ladygray4.
Nice job Kevin.....someone mentioned they saw a smile on your face....I think I also saw it :~) Congratulations.
Thank you all for the help I was smiling for sure.
Heck yeah, congratulations
Thank you all for the help.
I know you could do it good to see the old puddle jumper running your friend GMAN
Thank you all for the help.
Hey Kevin, when that tractor was made it had a positive ground. Now you have to change the points to negative ground. Watch Pete on a few acres farm and in one he is fixing on an H and the insulated connection he has hooked to negative so the points have it switched to carry electricity.
Thanks for the comment.
I knew the Ol Girl had it in her she just needed a little extra push corrosion is really bad when things set.
But we got her going now. Stay safe my friend.
Thank you all for the help Jim.
Great video my super a is doing same thing hopefully it will get my going
Make sure the distributor is grounded
@@Robinson-Homestead hey man I just followed your steps and did everything you did and she runs again thanks
@@scottyanderson3337 Glad to help thanks for the comment and watching Scotty.
Weak spark caused by voltage reduction from ballast resistor. What does writing on coil body say.some coils have an internal resistor. Glad to see it start.
Thank you all for the help Joe.
Joe Pacheco, I thought for a while I was the only one seeing the writing that says use without external resistor.
That for sure would make a weak spark, if used with external resistor.
your using a 12 volt battery and a 6 volt coil ?
It's been converted to 12 volt.
Nice job on cleaning all connections too bad you couldn't get it running without replacing all new parts but it starts and runs nice so it's a win-win.
Yes it is thanks for watching
Smart
Thanks Kenny.
Well done fella. I am at a loss as to that running with the electrical at the coil backwards as I am with your brother on that one but hey if it works, who cares eh !
Thank you all for the help Tomoko.
Two thumbs up Kev! Sounds like she's running good to me -I use the same gasket martial on ALL my repair work its good stuff.You might have to tweak the timing just a smidgen if it has trouble under a heavy load other than that you are well on your way my friend
Thank you all for the help and the info Rosario W.
Not only did you get her running, she sounds great!
Thank you all for the help.
Good job Buddy, we are so happy to see that tractor running, PRAISE THE LORD, THANK YOU JESUS 🙌!!! I do believe you had a smile on your face.
Thank you all for the help smile for sure.
nice real nice good job Kevin🖒🎃
Thank you all for the help.
I believe it was a bad ground problem was you found
Thank you all for the help Hillbilly Bro.
Super a farmall is positive ground. Distributor goes to positive side of coil.
Thanks for the comment Mark.
Way to go Kevin you got her fired up lol
Thank you all for the help thanks Melvin.
Well, that was easy. ha. Great job.
Thanks!
Perseverance!!!!!👍
I would like to see this beautiful tractor pull a 2 disk plow..
That would be cool but i already sold it.
That coil, looks bran'spankin new, Is that the proper resister for that coil? The tractor should start easy but have you cleaned out the carb. If you use or plan on using the tractor often, then good gas, but if not using the tractor often you might consider gas stabilizer, stabil or seafoam... hope it all works out, tractors are good to have.
It looks like the carb is gravity fed, so gas is in the carb when the engine is NOT running, Just wondering, that would gunk up the carb. I am glad she got running 4 ya but if she is very cold, you're gonna take the bat out of battery to get her running. You will get her going and nice too.
Someone upgraded to 12v but did they change polarity too? Came from the factory as positive ground.
They did change the polarity thanks Scott.
She need a exaust gasket
Thank you all for the help still A lot to do.
Kevin I have a 1953 super c farmall tractor. We have gotten it running, but it will only run for 3-4 minutes then cut off. Then it run for 2-3 minutes and cut off. Then it wont run at all. We have rebuilt the carburetor twice and cleaned it out twice. Because when it stopped it sounded like it was running out of gas. However. know we are getting know spark. Kevin I sent you a message earlier, but I may have accidently deleted your response. I would grateful for your or any one else response. In addition to this tractor problem, I see that i need to join some type of tractor group to keep abreast of events and people to assist when problems mechanical happens.
You may have a bad coil if it is getting fuel.
Thanks for your reply. I did replace the coil, points and condenser. When I took the distributor cap, I did mark the distributor it so I could put it back in time. But I am not completely sure it is in time. However, there was no backfire or fire of any type. One small thing is that the distributor cap fits into the proper slot, but there is still a small gap between the metal distributor and the plastic distributor cap which puzzles me. Should I replace the distributor cap?
@@Robinson-Homestead Dear Kevin: Today I ran a wire straight to the positive side of coil to the positive side of the battery. Using a test light I established that there is power to the negative side of the coil also. Additionally there is power from the negative side of coil to the distributor as well. The higher voltage wire from the coil to the distributor has been tested and is working well. A new rotor button has been installed. The switch was by-passed, but was turned it on so as to prevent possibly grounding out.
Keep in mind that the original problem was it would start and run for 3-4minutes then cut-off, then for 2-3minutes and cut-off, then 1-2minutes and cut off and not run any more. We do have gas but know spark.
If u don't have a good spark, I'm told the compression can blow it out. Is that the proper
resistor for that coil? It should be a BLUE spark, otherwise, it's a weak spark. I still think
there is an error in the wiring, even if the engine does fire, it will not run well.
Is that a new condenser?
It seems like a few issues here, the tractor should start much easier than this, a
bad condenser in with points will not help. and timing what is the gap at points supposed to be?
Carb might need a good clean out, had an engine with great spark but took some work to get it
going, bad gaskets will make engine run lean.
U R still missing a WIRE! put wire on coil where resistor wire is. run the new wire to either
starter solenoid on starter side or better where skinny wire is. This way when starter cranks
coil gets full voltage. On a cold morning its gonna b hard to start.
Thank you for all your comments Raymond.
U R missing a wire! left side of resistor to coil, should have another wire to starter or starter
solenoid.
So what do you think was the problem why you had no spark
I think it was the distributor
Bad Ground
Well, you can lead a horse to water. . .U should NOT have to spray starter fluid to get it going.
you don't have a good spark while the engine is being cranked because battery volts go down
as a lot of amps are being used to work starter/generator to crank, and on top of that, voltage
is lost at the resistor. U should have a good spark, at least a good half inch at all times.
Well, it does not seem you want to take my advice.
Odd. My youngest nephew is named Kevin Robinson
yeah there is a lot of kevin robinsons, i think it is a common name
Smart
Thanks for the comment Kenny.